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Lunch at the 1 Star Michelin Restaurant Gutsschenke Schlosshotel Monrepos, with Chef Ben Benasr - Germany-East Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

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Picture: 1 Star Michelin Chef Ben Benasr Joining us after Lunch at Gutsschenke Schlosshotel Monrepos

Before the visit of Weingut Herzog von Württemberg, our last winery visit on the Germany-East Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017, we had lunch at the Gutsschenke Schlosshotel Monrepos.

Michelin-starred Chef Ben Benasr joint us after the dinner for a talk.

House of Württemberg

The House of Württemberg is a German dynasty and a former Royal family. Today, the Württemberg family still owns the castles Monrepos, Altshausen and Friedrichshafen.

Winemaking at the House of Württemberg goes back to the 13th century. Their vineyard sites are in the most prestigious parcels in Württemberg and tasting the Herzog von Württemberg portfolio is a high-class journey through the best of the best that the Württemberg wine region has to offer. Owner is H.R.H. Carl Herzog von Württemberg and he makes sure that old tradition and modern knowledge go hand in hand to produce outstanding wines. In 1981 a new, modern winery was constructed in the park of the beautiful Castle Monrepos, the royal family of Württemberg’s lakeside weekend and hunting retreat.

Pictures: Lunch at Gutsschenke Schlosshotel Monrepos

Wine Region Württemberg

Baden-Württemberg is one of the 16 German states that make up Germany. Baden-Wuerttemberg is one of the growth centers of Germany due to its booming export industries. Mercedes-Benz and Porsche are prime examples. Baden-Württemberg comprises two wine growing areas, Baden and Württemberg.

Wine from Württemberg is mainly red wine. The main production area is along the Neckar River between Stuttgart and Heilbronn. There are also vineyards on Lake Constance that belong to Württemberg.

More wine is consumed here (per capita) than anywhere else in Germany - actually twice as much as in the rest of Germany. The German poet Friedrich von Schiller wrote already several centuries ago: “A Württemberger without wine--is that a real Württemberger?”

The Trollinger is the most popular variety, which is grown almost exclusively in Württemberg. It is a nice table wine that goes well with the local food. If you are looking for a premium wine, Lemberger (known as Blaufränkisch in Austria and Kékfrankos in its Hungarian homeland) is the grape variety to go for. The Lemberger made by Weingut Dautel and Weingut Wachstetter, which we had during the tour, can compete with the best red wines in the world.

With 11,000 hectares under vine, Württemberg is Germany's fourth largest wine region. Winemaking cooperatives are very common in Württemberg, number around 70, and are responsible for almost 75% of the region's production.

Wines from Württemberg are hard to find in the US. This is partly explained by the production structure, which is dominated by co-operatives. These co-operatives are known for producing top class wines. But they tend to be less aggressive in terms of penetrating new markets.

Pictures: Christian Schiller and Chef Ben Benasr

Chef Ben Benasr at Gutsschenke Schlosshotel Monrepos

In the park of Schloss Monrepos is also a hotel, Schlosshotel Monrepos, including the Michelin-starred restaurant Gutsschenke. Chef Ben Benasr an his team again were awarded a star in the Guide Michelin Deutschland 2018 and 16 points in the Gault Millau 2018 Deutschland. Before the visit of Weingut Herzog von Württemberg, we had lunch at the Gutsschenke.

Chef Ben Benasr was borne in Tunesia and got his formal training in Sousse/ Tunesia and at Restaurant Schloss Weitenburg in Germany. He interned and worked at a number of top restaurants, including Pierre Gagnaire/ Paris, Hotel de Crillon/ Paris and Joël Robuchon/ Monaco. Before taking over the Gutsschänke Monrepos, he was Chef de Cuisine at Landhaus Stricker/ Sylt (1 Michelin star and 18 Gault Millau points).

The Lunch (1 Star Michelin/ 16 Points Gault Millau)

The Menu


Bread Basket


Scallops and Tomato

Scallops, Confied Tomatoes
Burrata, Fine Herbs Gaspacho


US-Wagyu Beef and Corn

Glaced Tafelspitz, Corn, Porzini
Yuzu-Safron-Fond


Pre-dessert


Rhubarb and Peanut

Braised Rhubarb, Peanut Icecream
Dulcey Chocolate, Lemon Verbena


Mignardises


The Wines

2105 Weingut Herzog von Württemberg Maulbronner Eilfingerberg Riesling trocken


2014 Weingut Herzog von Württemberg Untertürkheimer Mönchberg Lemberg GG Grosse Lage


Quittendestillat Obstbrand


Postings: Germany-East Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours: Wine, Art, Culture and History (Published and Forthcoming Postings)

Germany-East Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours: Wine, Art, Culture and History

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Schiller's Favorite Winemakers in the Saale Unstrut Region, Germany

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Lunch at Restaurant Schloss Monrepos Ludwigsburg, Württemberg, with Chef Ben Benasr (1 Star Michelin)

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Winemaker Dinner with Alice Rion and Louis Hamman, Domaine Armelle et Bernhard Rion, Vosne ­Romanée, Bourgogne, at the French Embassy/ Restaurant Le Café Descartes in Washington DC, USA/ France

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Picture: Winemaker Dinner with Alice Rion and Louis Hamman, Domaine Rion, Vosne ­Romanée, Bourgogne, at the French Embassy/ Restaurant Le Café Descartes in Washington DC

Alice Rion and her husband Louis Hamman, Domaine Armelle et Bernhard Rion in Vosne ­Romanée, Côte de Nuits, Bourgogne, were in town (Washington DC) and presented their wines at a winemaker dinner at the French Embassy.

Picture: Winemaker Dinner with Alice Rion and Louis Hamman, Domaine Rion, Vosne ­Romanée, Bourgogne, at the French Embassy/ Restaurant Le Café Descartes in Washington DC

Annette and I know Domaine Armelle et Bernhard Rion and Alice Rion quite well. We have visited Domaine Armelle et Bernard Rion on ombiasy WineTours to Burgundy. See:

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Armelle et Bernhard Rion in Vosne ­Romanée, Côte de Nuits - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours
Domaine Armelle et Bernard Rion in Vosne-Romanée: Wine Tasting in the Cellar with Bernard Rion and Alice Rion – Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

The dinner took place at Le Café Descartes, which is within the French Embassy compound. It is run by Chef Mark Courseille and Max Jacquet.

The event was organized by Laurent Lala of Elite Wines. Domaine Rion is widely available in the greater Washington DC area, as it is imported to the US by Elite Wines, based in Virginia.

As a special treat, Annette and I were seated at the head table with veteran French Michelin 2 Stars Chef Gérard Pangaud and his wife.

Picture: The French Embassy in Washington DC

Domaine Armelle et Bernhard Rion

Domaine Rion is in Vosne Romanée, on the Route National. Domaine Rion was founded in 1880 by Pierre Rion. His son Louis substantially enlarged the domaine. In 1952, the domaine was divided between his 2 sons. The older one, Marcel, stayed in Vosne Romanée. In 1973, Marcel's son Bernard Rion joined Domaine Rion and is now with his wife Armelle the "senior" generation at the domaine.

Since 2006, their daughter Alice has been working at the domaine. The husband of Alice, Louis, joined her in 2010. His focus is the work in the vineyard.

Since 2015, Nelly, the oldest of the 3 daughters of Armelle and Bernard, came back to the Domaine and takes care mainly of the marketing. A great family history !

Pictures: At Domaine Armelle et Bernhard Rion in Vosne ­Romanée, Côte de Nuits, Bourgogne. See: Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Armelle et Bernhard Rion in Vosne ­Romanée, Côte de Nuits - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Wine production is very traditional with a high respect for nature. Vineyard management methods rely on natural or very specific products. 'Pheronomes' are diffused around the vineyards to provoke sexual confusion in certain insects eliminating the need to use insecticides. The average vines are over 50 years old and their roots draw nutrition from deep down in the ground.

In addition to wines, the Rion family has a passion for truffles and owns 4 truffel dogs that are good in detecting the best truffels hidden beneath the ground.

Pictures: At Domaine Armelle et Bernhard Rion in Vosne ­Romanée, Côte de Nuits, Bourgogne. See: Domaine Armelle et Bernard Rion in Vosne-Romanée: Wine Tasting in the Cellar with Bernard Rion and Alice Rion – Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Winemaking Philosophy

Alice talked a lot about the winemaking philosophy of Domaine Rion, which is summarized on the web site of Domaine Rion:

Fertilizer: Organic fertilizer is used exclusively on the sandy slopes in order to maintain the structure of the soil. On average our vines are over 50 years old and their roots draw their nutrition from deep down in the ground.

Cultivation: The vineyards are ploughed in winter and hoed in the spring. Grass is then left to grow naturally between the rows and a light tractor,(limiting soil compaction), is used to hold it back from invading the vines.

Pruning: A preliminary pruning is carried out in autumn, followed-up by a thorough pruning in March. The canes are burnt to prevent any risk of infection.

Treatments: Curative only. We use rational management methods relying on natural or very specific products. 'Pheronomes' are diffused around the vineyards to provoke sexual confusion in certain insects eliminating the need to use insecticides.

Grape Harvest: Picking is manual, de-stemming is very gentle and there is no crushing.

Fermentation: Natural fermentation is long, lasting from 2 to 3 weeks. The cap is punched manually and a stainless steel pneumatic press presses out at low pressure (2kg/cm2), ensuring fine lees on which the wine will mature for 18 months removing the need for filtration. New oak and oak barrels under 5 years old are used for the maturing process.

Bottling: Bottling takes place on the estate with the assistance of a specialized bottling company. New bottles are sterilized and the wine introduced under air-tight conditions. Top quality corks from Portugal are then used.

Conclusion: As one can see from the above description, every effort goes into producing wines to lie down which will develop and be enhanced over the decades provided they are laid down in a cellar maintained at a constant temperature.

Pictures: At Domaine Armelle et Bernhard Rion in Vosne ­Romanée, Côte de Nuits, Bourgogne. See: Domaine Armelle et Bernard Rion in Vosne-Romanée: Wine Tasting in the Cellar with Bernard Rion and Alice Rion – Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Vosne-Romanée

Clive Coats: Nowhere is wine more noble than in Vosne-Romanée. Between the Nuits-Saint-Georges premier cru of Boudots to the south and the walls of the Clos de Vougeot at the northern end lie the 240 hectares of Vosne-Romanée vineyard: the most valuable piece of vinous real estate in the world.

Appellation Romanée Conti Grand Cru: The Romanée-Conti vineyard dominates the village, with its wines among the most expensive in the world. It is a monopole of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti. Around 600 cases are made each year from the vineyard's 1.8 ha.

Appellation La Romanée Grand Cru: La Romanée is a monopole of the Château de Vosne-Romanée. Only 300 cases are made each year from this plot of 0.84 ha.

Appellation La Tâche Grand Cru: La Tâche is Domaine de la Romanée Conti's other monopole, and its 6 ha consist of the vineyards of La Tâche and Les Gaudichots.

Pictures: The Vineyards of Vosne-Romanée

Appellation Richebourg Grand Cru: The 8 ha of the Richebourg cru are divided between 10 growers, including Domaine Leroy and Domaine de la Romanée Conti.

Appellation La Grande Rue Grand Cru: The least-renowned of the six grands crus is a monopole of Domaine François Lamarche, and was only promoted from premier cru recently. Its 1.4 hectares lie between La Tâche and Romanée-Conti.

Appellation Romanée Saint Viviant Grand Cru: Domaine de la Romanée Conti owns over half of the area's 9.5 ha.

Although unable to command the same prices as their grand cru neighbors, the village is home to many excellent premier cru wines. Fifty-eight hectares of this is premier cru, and there are 11 of these. Five of them lie just above the grands crus, six on the same altitude or a little further down the slope.

Le Café Descartes

The dinner took place at Le Café Descartes, which is within the French Embassy compound. It is run by Chef Mark Courseille and Max Jacquet. Their main task is to feed the staff of the Embassy during business hours (8am to 6 pm). There are several outlets, including a coffee shop, a bar, a cafeteria and a fine dining restaurant. All these are run by Mark and Max and their collaborators. In the evening, Le Café Descartes and the other outlets are usually closed. However, they are open for special events like the winemaker dinner with Alice Rion and Louis Hamman from Domaine Armelle et Bernhard Rion.

In a true act of diplomacy, the French Embassy offers the public access to its bar, coffee shop, cafeteria and fine-dining restaurant during the regular business hours. Go to the website for more details.

Pictures: Chef Mark Courseille, Christian Schiller, Max Jacquet, Veteran Chef Gérard Pangaud and his Wife

Head Table

Annette and I were seated at the head table, togather with the Rions, Patrick Lachaussée (First Counselor at the Embassy) and Emmanuelle Lachaussée (Press Counselor at the Embassy)and Chef Gérard Pangaud with his wife. Gérard Pangaud is a veteran French chef best known in Washington DC as Chef/ Owner for 15 years of Gerard’s Place in downtown Washington (1993 to 2008).

Pictures: Head Table

Reception

Gougère
Steak Tartare
Brioche Quail Egg


Crémant de Bourgogne, Brut, NV, Domaine Tripoz


The reception was quite lively. Alice and Louis walked around welcoming the 40 guests.

Pictures: Reception

The Dinner

After verybody had taken her/ his seat, Max Jacquet/ Le Café Descartes, Patrick Lachaussée/ French Embassy and Alice Rion and her husband Louis Hamman provided introductory remarks.

Pictures: Introductory Remarks

Pictures: The Dinner

First Course

Crumble d'Escargot Flan d'Ail Beurre Persillé
Snail Crumble, Garlic Butter Parsley Flan

Domaine Armelle et Bernard Rion, Bourgogne Rouge, La Croix Blance, Vieilles Vignes, 2015


Second Course

Boudin Blanc Sauce Meurette

Domaine Armelle et Bernard Rion, Chambolle Musigny, Les Echezaux, 2014


Third Course

Perche d'Océan et Omble Chevalier
Ocean Perch and Arctic Char Pôchouse

Domaine Armelle et Bernard Rion, Vosne-Romanée, 1er Cru, Les Chaumes, 2013


Fourth Course

Filet Mignon Rôti, Tagliatelle et Petit Légumes, Sauce Bourguignonne
Roasted Fillet of Beef Tenderloin, Tagliatelle et Petit Légumes, Burgundy Style

Domaine Armelle et Bernard Rion, Nuits Saint Georges, 1er Cru, Les Murgers, 2014


Fifth Course

Assiette de Fromages (Époisses/ Brillat-Savarin/ Délice de Bourgogne)
Cheese Plate

Domaine Armelle et Bernard Rion, Clos de Vougeot, Grand Cru, 2012


Sixth Course

Poire Pochée, Granache Chocolat et Ganache de Noix de Pécan, Glace Pain d'Épice
Poached Pear, Chocolate and Pécan Ganache, Gingerbread Ice Cream

Café/ Thé


Chef Gérard Pangaud

Gérard Pangaud is a veteran French chef best known in Washington DC as Chef/ Owner for 15 years of Gerard’s Place in downtown Washington (1993 to 2008).

Dave McIntyre, Washington Post: Pangaud, began developing his cuisine of subtlety at age 15, when he entered the Ecole Hoteliere in Paris. He learned pastry from the great Gaston Lenotre and apprenticed with some of France's greatest chefs, including the brothers Troigros in their restaurant in Roanne, Joseph Rostaing and Roger Verger. He opened his first restaurant in Paris in September 1976 and quickly won a Michelin star. His second star came three years later after he opened a new restaurant in the Paris suburb of Boulogne. In a footnote now enshrined in Washington, D.C., restaurant lore, in becoming the youngest-ever two-star chef, Pangaud eclipsed Jean-Louis Palladin by two months.

Pangaud moved in 1985 to New York, as chef at Aurora and later had an unsuccessful attempt at owning his own restaurant there. He regained his stride in 1990 at the Ritz-Carlton in Pentagon City. Now celebrating his third anniversary at Gerard's Place, he is planning to open a more casual restaurant and wine bar later this spring on M Street NW in Georgetown. Calling it Vintage, he describes it as "a place you can go for a salad or a glass of wine."

City Paper: By many measures, Pangaud's career as a chef in America has fallen short of his youthful promise. Aurora, the restaurant he opened with Baum in New York, never found its financial footing. The Manhattan version of Gerard's Place barely got off the ground. Starting at the Ritz Carlton in Arlington, Pangaud found more success in D.C., but a gourmet selection of personal foibles has helped keep the success modest. He openly admits that alcoholism and a less-than-acute business sense have broken his stride, and some of his friends speak sadly of the way in which he has, in their eyes, frittered away his exceptional gifts.

"I am a recovering alcoholic," Pangaud says. "New York was not the right place for me. So I tried to find a slower pace and a better lifestyle, and Washington is giving me that. It's not as sophisticated or as glamorous as Paris and New York. But it's a much better quality of life for a chef."

Pictures: Veteran Gérard Pangaud at the Head Table

The End: "L'hymne de la Bourgogne"

The wondeful evening ended with all of us singing "l'hymne de la Bourgogne"

Pictures: Singing "L'hymne de la Bourgogne"

Bye-bye

Picture: See you in Vosne ­Romanée

schiller-wine: Related Postings

Upcoming Tours/ Wine Dinners/ Tastings - Annette and Christian Schiller/ ombiasyPR & WineTours/ schiller-wine, Germany, France, USA (March 1, 2018)

Ombiasy Wine Tours 2018: 3 x France and 3 x Germany - Ombiasy Newsletter December 2017

Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: From Lyon to Reims - Wine, Food, Culture and History

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Armelle et Bernhard Rion in Vosne ­Romanée, Côte de Nuits - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Domaine Armelle et Bernard Rion in Vosne-Romanée: Wine Tasting in the Cellar with Bernard Rion and Alice Rion – Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France




Tour, Tasting, Dinner and Overnight Stay at Weingut Kruger Rumpf, Nahe, with Stefan, Cornelia and Georg Rumpf – Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

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Picture: Tour, Tasting, Dinner, and Overnight Stay at Weingut Kruger Rumpf, Nahe, with Stefan, Cornelia and Georg Rumpf

Last year on the Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours, we also payed a visit to Weingut Kruger-Rumpf. But the visit took place in Bingen at the wine tavern Altes Rathaus, which the Rumpf family had taken over in that year. See: Wine-pairing Dinner at Weingut Kruger-Rumpf's Wine Tavern Altes Rathaus in Bingen, with Stefan Rumpf– Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Pictures: At Wine Tavern Altes Rathaus in Bingen, with Stefan Rumpf

This year, we went back to the winery in Münster-Sarmsheim, which also includes a fantastic restaurant. Not only that, just opposite of the winery on the other side of the street, Weingut Kruger-Rumpf also disposes of a bit more than a handfull of guest rooms. The Rumpfs have the permit to add more rooms to the existing ones. But Georg Rumpf and his brother are not eager to go that route. They want to refocus on the winery and the production of wines.

Anyway, we stayed overnight at Weingut Kruger-Rumof this time. The visit started with a short tour of the winery, lead by Stefan Rumpf. We then had a wine-pairing at the restaurant of Weingut Kruger-Rumpf. Stefan and Georg poured the wines and joined us from time to time. The latter had returned this morning from a Skurnik/ Theise sales trip in the US. The evening ended with dinner. 

We then had a good night's sleep and a wonderful breakfast in the Kruger-Rumpf restaurant in the morning.

Weingut Kruger-Rumpf is represented in the US by Michael Skurnik/ Terry Theise and widely available in the country.

In the Gault&Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2018, Weingut Kruger-Rumpf has 4 (out of 5) grapes. See: Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland/ Germany 2018: The Climbers

Pictures: Welcome, Annette Schiller and Georg Rumpf

Weingut Kruger-Rumpf

“In our family, viniculture has been tradition since 1708 - a tradition that we have been cultivating in our vineyards as well as in our manor house which was built back in 1830” said Georg Rumpf. Stefan Rumpf, Georg’s father, brought Weingut Kruger-Rumpf up to where it is today: After completing his studies in agricultural sciences, including stints in Californian wineries, and conducting research at the Geisenheim research institute, Stefan Rumpf took over the estate from his parents in 1984. Up until then, the wines were sold almost entirely in bulk. Stefan Rumpf changed this and started to bottle his wines and to market the bottles himself. Less than 10 years later, in 1992, Weingut Kruger-Rumpf was invited to join the VDP, the about 200 German elite winemakers, a clear sign of what Stefan Rumpf had achieved over the course of just 8 years.

Today, Weingut Kruger-Rumpf has 4 (of 5) grapes in the Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland. The vineyard area totals 22 hectares and the annual production is 14.000 cases. The top sites are: Münsterer Dautenpflänzer (slate with sandy loam); Münsterer Pittersberg (slate); Münsterer Rheinberg (weathered quartzite and sandy loam); Binger Scharlachberg Rheinhessen (Rotliegend and porphyry).

Grape varieties: 65% Riesling, 10% each of Silvaner and Weissburgunder, 5% each of Chardonnay, Grauburgunder and Spätburgunder. In fact, Kruger-Rumpf was the first estate in the Nahe region to plant Chardonnay.

Georg Rumpf has taken over the winemaking aspect of Weingut Kruger-Rumpf, while his father is now more focusing on sales and general management. Georg's brother Philipp Rumpf has recently joined the operations.

Weingut Krueger-Rumpf sells 70% of its production in Germany and exports the remaining 30%. Accordingly, “80% of the wines we produce are dry wines” said Georg “and 20% are fruity-sweet and noble-sweet wines.”

Pictures: Cellar Tour at Weingut Kruger-Rumpf in Münster-Sarmsheim, Nahe

Vineyards

Here is a good description of Weingut Rumpf's vineyards, from Skurnik/ Terry Theise.

Münsterer Dautenpflänzer – loesss, subsoil is quartz – Daute means “shoot” and pflänzer means “plant”, an homage to the fact that this was once a nursery. South facing, the older section is steep, and the vineyard is an amphitheater shape.

Münsterer im Pitterberg – slate (Devonian weathered grey) – this is a Grosse Lage (Grand Cru) steep south facing site.

Münsterer Rheinberg – weathered quartzite and sandy loam– southeast facing, from very steep on the higher sections to gentle slopes with richer soils in the lower sections.

Binger Scharlachberg Rheinhessen – quartz and red sandstone/red slate – The name means scarlet hill, planted in terraced sections rather than straight slopes. Just across the Nahe to the east of Münster, this vineyard is technically in the Rhienhessen in its far northwest boundary.

Bingerbrücker Abtei im Ruppertsberg – phyllite, which is essentially mica slate – south facing very steep hillside. Abtei means abbey and this vineyard belonged to the abbey at Bingen, home to Hildegard vom Bingen. Most northern vineyard in the Nahe.

Dorsheimer Burgberg – volcanic Permian era conglomerate, and quartz – quite steep and very small vineyard in Dorsheim, one village south of Münster.

Münsterer Kapellenberg – quartz, with some red slate – several sections which are very steep, but similar to Rheinberg where the lower sections have richer soils.

Pictures: Annette and Christian G.E. Schiller in the Vineyard with Georg RumpfPictures: In the Vineyard with Georg Rumpf during a previous Visit of Weingut Kruger-Rump.
See: Wine Dinner with Tour at Weingut Kruger-Rumpf in Münster-Sarmsheim, Nahe, with Georg Rumpf – Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Country Restaurant Kruger-Rumpf

One of the (many) assets of Weingut Kruger-Rumpf is the lovely country restaurant, which is part of the winery. It opened its doors in 1994. They call it a wine tavern, but for me it is a country restaurant. Whatever you call it, it is a lovely place, where you can have a great time with traditional, upscale cuisine and Kruger-Rumpf wines in the cozy atmosphere of a family-run country restaurant.

Pictures: Stefan Rumpf and Cornelia Rumpf, with Georg Rumpf, his Wife and Daughter. (A second daughter, Magdalena Johanna, was borne in early 2018)

The rooms are decorated with appropriate accessories depending on the season. Painted stucco ceilings, historic tiled stoves, wooden floors, warm wall paint as well as furniture in country-house style provide for a comfortable living room atmosphere. The bright rooms are located on the ground floor of the manor house.

In addition, there is an idyllic garden. Especially during the summer, the garden restaurant of the winery provides you with the opportunity to enjoy the evening in a cozy al fresco atmosphere with a hearty meal and a good glass of wine. In fact, we did the tasting and had the dinner in the garden restaurant.

Pictures: Tasting with Stefan and Georg Rumpf at Weingut Kruger-Rumpf

I love to wine and dine at Weingut Kruger-Rumpf. Towards the end of the year, after the harvest, Weingut Kruger-Rumpf always organizes two winemaker dinners. These are exceptional events, because of the wines, the food and the ambiance. When we are in Germany during that period, we always try to participate.

The Wines Stefan and Georg Rumpf Poured

2015 Weingut Kruger-Rumpf Sauvignon Blanc trocken

Everyone seems to be making a little, and notwithstanding my skepticism as to whether the variety actually belongs in Germany (where it is very trendy) I allow myself to be won over by the yummy ones. This is barrel-fermented in (1,000-liter) Stück, without temperature control, and it’s a seriously pretty slinky sorta SB, neither paprika nor gooseberry but instead smoky and current-leafy; the palate is racy and juicy and the finish really snappy. I like it a lot, but watch out if you require a “smooth” finish. — Terry Theise

2016 Weingut Kruger-Rumpf Weisser Burgunder trocken

NV Weingut Kruger-Rumpf Rosé Brut

“Moderate dosage, 36 months on the lees, this is arrestingly delicious; it’s 90% PN and 10% Riesling both wood-fermented, no malo in the Riesling, and the disgorgement date is on the label. This is racy, sea-spray, rose-hip; a fine richness here, jammed with flavor; less meaty than (some) pink Champagnes, and of course no chalk, but otherwise a serious contender with deftly balanced wood. Surprise!” – Terry Theise 


2016 Weingut Kruger-Rumpf Münster Riesling trocken

The next step up into the Village-wine (in the sensible VDP scheme; I don’t hate everything they do…) and it has wonderful slate aromas and a palate with lots of apple-y fruitiness; the dryness here is stylish and accommodating. — Terry Theise

2016 Weingut Kruger-Rumpf Dorsheim Riesling trocken


2015 Weingut Kruger-Rumpf Münsterer Pittersberg Riesling trocken
2015 Weingut Kruger-Rumpf Münsterer Kapellenberg Riesling trocken


2015 Weingut Kruger-Rumpf Abtei Riesling trocken

This is a new vineyard for Georg; it’s the site closest to the Rhine, with a phyllite soil (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phyllite) similar to that of the supernal Rheingau vineyard Rauenthaler Baiken. It’s a sponti from old vines on steep slopes, and to me it tasted a little like (Kamptal’s) Gaisberg. A bit clipped in its infant-stage, the palate vibrates between slate and exotics, and the wine is potent and promising. – Terry Theise

2015 Weingut Kruger-Rumpf Münsterer Rheinberg Riesling trocken


2015 Weingut Kruger-Rumpf Im Pitterberg Riesling GG trocken
2015 Weingut Kruger-Rumpf Dautenpflänzer Riesling GG trocken

Wonderful exotic aromas like if irises had orgasms; ferrous and almost like a Wachau wine or a Piri from Nigl; mizuna and grill- marks and leaf-smoke; stern and dry but assertively expressive, but it’s not a wine for sensual hedonists. – Terry Theise


2015 Weingut Kruger-Rumpf Münsterer Rheinberg Riesling Kabinett feinherb

An orgy of apples along with their skins, animated and contrapuntal, cox-orange flesh against granny smith skins; solid acid driven finish, and beautifully balanced; soulful texture from cask aging. A leap not forward but down, into truth and foundation. This isn’t a “little” Kabinett anymore. — Terry Theise 


2016 Weingut Kruger-Rumpf Im Pitterberg Riesling Spätlese

For me this was the pick among the Späts, especially if you like Saar Riesling’s grapefruity tang; limey yet rich and extractdense; the mid-palate recalls the “Uralte Reben” from Selbach, with perhaps more heft and a harder backbone. Soul in spades! – Terry Theise 


2013 Weingut Kruger-Rumpf Spätburgunder M trocken


Dinner

After the tasting we had dinner. Dinner was lovely. The evening ended late. But it was a short walk to the guest rooms of Weingut Kruger-Rumpf for a good night's sleep.

Pictures: Dinner at Weingut Kruger-Rumpf

Breakfast

When we had breakfast the next morning, Geor, Stefan and Cornelia came by to say good-bye. Thank you very much Cornelia, Stefan and Georg for a great evening.

Pictures: Breakfast

Postings: Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential German Riesling and the Northernmost Pinot Noir (Posted and Forthcoming)

Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential German Riesling and the Northernmost Pinot Noir

Weingut Georg Müller Stiftung in Hattenheim, Rheingau: Cellar Tour, Art Tour, Tasting and Vineyard Tour with Winemaker Tim Lilienström - Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Kloster Eberbach in the Rheingau: Lunch, Tour of the Abbey, the Steinberg and the Steinbergkeller, with Tasting - Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Schloss Vollrads in the Rheingau: Tour and Tasting - Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Leitz in Rüdesheim, with Johannes Leitz – Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Vineyard Tour and Tasting at Weingut Ratzenberger, Mittelrhein, with Jochen Ratzenberger - Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Rhine River Cruise in the Mittelrhein Valley, an UNESCO World Heritage Region - Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Heymann-Löwenstein in Winningen, Mosel, with Reinhard Löwenstein - Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Tasting at Weingut H.J. Kreuzberg in Dernau, Ahr, with Technical Director Albert Schamaun– Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Jean Stodden, Ahr, with Alexander Stodden - Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Tasting with Markus Molitor at Weingut Markus Molitor in Haus Klosterberg, Mosel - Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Tasting and Vineyard Visit at Weingut Immich-Batterieberg in Enkirch, Mosel, with Gernot Kollmann - Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

The Wines of the Berncasteler Doctor, Bernkastel-Kues in the Mosel Valley, Germany

Wining in Bernkastel-Kues in the Mosel Valley: Wine Tavern “Spitzhaeuschen”, Germany

Tasting and Vineyard Walk with Oliver Haag, Weingut Fritz Haag – Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Dinner at Restaurant Schanz, 2 Stars Michelin, Piesport, Mosel– Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Taverns in Trier, Germany

Cellar Visit, Vineyard Walk and Tasting at Weingut Maximin Grünhaus in Mertersdorf, Ruwer, with Owner Dr. Carl von Schubert – Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut von Hövel, Saar, with Owner/ Winemaker Maximilian von Kunow - Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Tasting at Weingut Emrich-Schönleber in Monzingen, Nahe, with Owner/ Winemaker Frank Schönleber - Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Wine Pairing Lunch at Landgasthof Zur Traube in Meddersheim, Nahe, with Petra Hexamer and the Wines of Weingut Hexamer - Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Dinner with Wine Pairing the Restaurant of Weingut Kruger-Rumpf in Münster-Sarmsheim, Nahe, with Corenlia, Stefan and Georg Rumpf

Tasting at Weingut J.B. Becker, in Walluf, Rheingau, with Hajo Becker 


The Rhône Wine Region in Southern France and its Wines: History, Classification, Northern and Southern Rhône

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Pictures: Châteauneuf-du-Pape in the Southern Rhône Valley and Hermitage in the Northern Rhône Valley

The Rhône wine region is situated in Southern France in the Rhône Valley and produces a wide spectrum of wines ranging from entry-level Vin de France wines to ultra-premium AOC wines like those from Hermitage and Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

The Rhône wine region is generally divided into two sub-regions with distinct vinicultural traditions, the Northern Rhône (referred to in French as Rhône septentrional) and the Southern Rhône (in French Rhône méridional).

Picture: The Wines of the Rhône Valley

The Rhône wine region borders in the south-east the Provence wine region, which borders Italy and in the south-west the Languedoc-Roussillon wine region, which borders Spain. Large parts of the Rhône wine region, essentially the Southern Rhône wine region, are part of the Provence.

Interestingly, the Costières de Nîmes AOC between the ancient city of Nîmes and the western Rhône delta, was formerly part of the Languedoc-Roussillon wine region and is now part of the Rhone wine region, administered by the Rhône Wine committee which has its headquarters in Avignon.

See also: Rhône Valley Tour December 2017: From Lyon to Avignon - Wine, Food, Culture, History

Picture: The Rhône River

History

The first cultivated vines in the Rhône wine region were probably planted around 600 BC by the Greeks.

From the 1st-century for 500 years France, like much of western Europe, was ruled by Rome. Their kingdom was powerful and the Romans left a lasting legacy of their civilization in the cities of France, or Gaul, as it was then. Throughout France you find a wealth of Roman ruins and sites, of amphitheaters which once resounded to the roars of the crowds watching the games, of aqueducts that carried precious water, of temples, forums, arches and baths. Most of the Roman remains are in the south of France, in the Provence which lay so close to the Roman Empire and Rome itself.

The Rhône corridor was the main trade route from Mediterranean lands into Gaul.

Arles, Nîmes and Orange form a tight group of cities at the southern end of the valley, all of them Roman coloniae (privileged cities) with exceptional series of monuments. Nîmes houses perhaps two of the best-preserved structures in the Roman world: the ‘Maison Carrée,’ a classical temple built under the first Roman emperor Augustus, and a late 1st-century ad amphitheatre. Most famously, Nîmes was supplied by a long aqueduct which included the world-famous, triple-tiered Pont du Gard aqueduct. Arles rivalled Nîmes, with an amphitheatre of similar dimensions, a theatre and a great circus for chariot-racing. Orange is famous for its theatre with a huge 37m-high stage wall and the exceptionally complete, early 1st-century ad triumphal arch.

In the late Roman period Arles became one of the most important cities of Roman Europe and a fine set of baths built under the first Christian emperor Constantine I (306–37) survives along with evidence for the growth of Christianity in its churches and cemeteries.

With the fall of the western Roman empire in the fifth century interest in the wine of the region disappeared.

The Rhône wine region re-appeared in the 13th century when the Popes and their considerable purchasing power moved to Avignon, at which time the production of wine expanded greatly. The wines were traded to such a degree that the Duke of Burgundy banned import and export of non-Burgundian wines.

The Romans in the Rhône Valley

From the 1st-century for 500 years France, like much of western Europe, was ruled by Rome. Their kingdom was powerful and the Romans left a lasting legacy of their civilization in the cities of France, or Gaul, as it was then. Throughout France you find a wealth of Roman ruins and sites, of amphitheaters which once resounded to the roars of the crowds watching the games, of aqueducts that carried precious water, of temples, forums, arches and baths. Most of the Roman remains are in the south of France, in the Provence which lay so close to the Roman Empire and Rome itself. The Rhône corridor was the main trade route from Mediterranean lands into Gaul.

Arles, Nîmes and Orange form a tight group of cities at the southern end of the valley, all of them Roman coloniae (privileged cities) with exceptional series of monuments. Nîmes houses perhaps two of the best-preserved structures in the Roman world: the ‘Maison Carrée,’ a classical temple built under the first Roman emperor Augustus, and a late 1st-century ad amphitheatre. Most famously, Nîmes was supplied by a long aqueduct which included the world-famous, triple-tiered Pont du Gard aqueduct. Arles rivalled Nîmes, with an amphitheatre of similar dimensions, a theatre and a great circus for chariot-racing. Orange is famous for its theatre with a huge 37m-high stage wall and the exceptionally complete, early 1st-century ad triumphal arch.

In the late Roman period Arles became one of the most important cities of Roman Europe and a fine set of baths built under the first Christian emperor Constantine I (306–37) survives along with evidence for the growth of Christianity in its churches and cemeteries.

With the fall of the western Roman empire in the fifth century interest in the wine of the region disappeared.

The Rhône wine region re-appeared in the 13th century when the Popes and their considerable purchasing power moved to Avignon, at which time the production of wine expanded greatly. The wines were traded to such a degree that the Duke of Burgundy banned import and export of non-Burgundian wines.

In 1486 Provence was legally incorporated into France.

Vaison-la-Romaine

Vaison-la-Romaine is famous for its rich Roman ruins, medieval town and cathedral. The historic section is in two parts, the Colline du Château on a height on one side of the Ouvèze, the "upper city" and on the opposite bank, the "lower city" centered on the Colline de la Villasse. What makes Vaison-la-Romaine so unique is the possibility to see the antique, medieval and modern towns within the same environment, 2,000 years of history. With four theaters, numerous exhibitions and galeries, Vaison-la-Romaine is also renown for its art scene. Many writers, painters and actors live in the area.

Pictures: Vaison-la-Romaine

Orange

Orange, a few miles north of Châteuneuf-du-Pape at the gates to Provence, is famous for its theatre with a huge 37m-high stage wall and the exceptionally complete, early 1st-century ad triumphal arch.

Pictures: Orange

Nîmes

Nîmes houses perhaps two of the best-preserved structures in the Roman world: the ‘Maison Carrée,’ a classical temple built under the first Roman emperor Augustus, and a late 1st-century ad amphitheatre.

Pictures: Nîmes

Pont du Gard

Most famously, Nîmes was supplied by a long aqueduct which included the world-famous, triple-tiered Pont du Gard aqueduct.

Pictures: Pont du Gard

Arles

Arles rivals Nîmes, with an amphitheatre of similar dimensions, a theatre and a great circus for chariot-racing. In the late Roman period Arles became one of the most important cities of Roman Europe and a fine set of baths built under the first Christian emperor Constantine I (306–37) survives along with evidence for the growth of Christianity in its churches and cemeteries.

Pictures: Arles

The Popes in the Rhône Valley

Avignon

Between 1309 and 1377, during the Avignon Papacy, seven successive popes resided in Avignon and in 1348 Pope Clement VI bought the town from Joanna I of Naples. Papal control persisted until 1791 when, during the French Revolution, it became part of France.

The historic centre, which includes the Palais des Papes, the cathedral, and the Pont d'Avignon, became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1995. The town is one of the few French cities to have preserved its ramparts.

Pictures: Avignon

Wine Region: Enclave des Papes

The Enclave was founded in 1317 when Pope John XXII bought Valreas for the papacy of Avignon. Over the next 150 years or so his successors added to the Enclave by the addition of the small towns of Visan, Richerenches and Grillon.

Picture: Enclave des Papes

The Comtat Venaissin

The Comtat Venaissin is the former name of the region around the city of Avignon. The Comtat was an enclave within the Kingdom of France, meaning it was independent from the Kingdom until the French Revolution. The Comtat was bequeathed by the Count of Poitiers to the Pope in 1271. The name comes from Venasque, the former capital, until it was replaced by Carpentras in 1320.

The city of Avignon, until then a distinct Comtat was sold by Jeanne de Provence to the Pope in 1348. At that date, the two comtats were joined to form one Papal enclave.

It is also worth mentioning that the Comtat became an haven for French Jews, who received better treatment under papal rule than in the rest of France. The oldest synagogue in France, built in the 14th century, is in Carpentras.

Although the Comtat was many times invaded by French troops in the 17th and 18th centuries, only the French Revolution brought the Comtat into the Vaucluse départment on August 18, 1791.

The enclave’s inhabitants did not pay taxes and were not subject to military service. This explains that living in this area was definitely more attractive than the rest of France.

Classification

The wine classification system of France was under overhaul from 2006, with a new system fully introduced as of 2012. As of today, any wine produced in France (and in the Rhône Valley) is sold as an (1) AOC, (2) Vin de Pay/ IGP or as a (3) Vin de France wine.

At the top, the AOP system replaced the old AOC without major modifications, although the term AOC is still widely used, including in this article.

Whereas in Bordeaux, Alsace or Bourgogne, essentially all wines are classified in the AOC system, this is not the case in the Rhône Valley. Domaine du Pegau, widely regarded as one of the leading producers in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, produces wines in all three classification categories, including the NV Plan Pegau Vin de France that is available, for example, at Calvert and Woodley in Washington DC for about US$20.

The AOC Systems of the Rhône Valley: Rhône AOCs and Other AOCs

The Rhône Valley is dominated by the Rhône AOC system. But there are other AOC systems in the Rhône Valley in addition to the Rhône AOC system. 3/4 of the total AOC region in the Rhône Valley is Rhône AOC and 1/4 is other AOC systems. All ultra-premium AOC wines in the Rhône Valley are Rhône AOC wines, including Hermitage AOC, Côte-Rôtie AOC and Châteuneuf-du-Pape AOC.

Rhône AOC

The Rhône AOC system provides a classification into four categories of AOCs:

(1) Côtes du Rhône only displays the region, and may be used in the entire wine region, in 171 communes. For some communes, this is the only allowed AOC. It is therefore the lowest classification for Rhône AOC wine. Regional Côtes du Rhône wines account for 48% of the total AOC wine production in the Rhône Valley.

(2) Côtes du Rhône Village is an AOC allowed for 95 communes, with a higher minimum requirement for grape maturity than basic Côtes du Rhône. It is therefore a higher classification. In general, the appellation does not allow the village name to be displayed.

(3) Côtes du Rhône Village plus village name on the label is allowed for 18 communes (approximately 6,500 hectares under cultivation). The 2 Côtes du Rhône-Village categories combined account for 11% of the total AOC wine production in the Rhône Valley.

Current regulation includes following villages: Cairanne, Chusclan (red and rosé only), Gadagne, Laudun, Massif d'Uchaux (red only), Plan de Dieu (red only), Puyméras (red only), Roaix, Rochegude, Rousset-les-Vignes, Sablet, Saint Gervais, Saint Maurice, Saint-Pantaléon-les-Vignes, Séguret, Signargues (red only), Valréas, Visan.

(4) At the most demanding level of distinction, a total of 17 crus are allowed to be recognized by their village name without requiring the mention of Côtes du Rhône on the label. These include the most famous Rhône wines, such as Hermitage, Côte-Rôtie and Châteuneuf-du-Pape. There is no official classification differentiating between different crus, but the market prices some AOCs much higher than others.

The Northern Crus account for 5% and the Souther Crus account for 12% of the total AOC wine production in the Rhône Valley.

Beaumes de Venise AOC, Château-Grillet AOC, Châteauneuf-du-Pape AOC, Condrieu AOC, Cornas AOC, Côte-Rôtie AOC, Crozes-Hermitage AOC, Gigondas AOC, Hermitage AOC, Lirac AOC, Rasteau AOC, Saint Joseph AOC, Saint Péray AOC, Tavel AOC, Vacqueyras AOC, Vinsobres AOC, Cairanne AOC.

Pictures: Côtes du Rhône Crus: Côte-Rôtie, Saint-Joseph, Gigondas, Châteauneuf-du-Pape and Tavel

Other AOCs in the Rhône Valley

Other appellations in the Rhône wine region are:

Grignan-lès-Adhémar AOC: The Grignan-Les Adhemar AOC (formerly the Côteaux du Tricastin) is the northernmost wine-growing AOC in the southern area of the Rhône wine region of France. The wines are produced in 21 communes. The Grignan-lès-Adhémar AOC accounts for 2% of the total AOC wine production in the Rhône Valley.

Formerly known as Costières du Gard, a VDQS, the region achieved AOC status in 1986 and was renamed Costières de Nîmes 1989. The Costières de Nîmes Appellation between the ancient city of Nîmes and the western Rhône delta was formerly part of the Languedoc-Roussillon Region is since 2004 part of the Rhone wine area and administered by the Rhône Wine committee which has its headquarters in Avignon.Interestingly enough, the immediately adjacent AOC of Clairette de Bellegarde remains listed as a Languedoc AOC. The Costières de Nîmes AOC accounts for 7% of the total AOC wine production in the Rhône Valley.

The Côtes du Vivarais is a wine-growing AOC in the northwestern extreme of the southern Rhône wine region. The wines are produced in 9 communes of the Ardèche department, and in 5 communes of the department of the Gard. The wine became a VDQS in 1962 and was awarded the Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée in 1999.

The Duché D’Uzès wine region, in the extreme south-west of the Rhône valley was upgraded from IGP to AOC status in 2012.

The Ventoux AOC (known as Côtes du Ventoux AOC until 2008) is a wine-growing AOC in the southeastern region of the Rhône wine region, covering 51 communes. The Ventoux AOC accounts for 9% of the total AOC wine production in the Rhône Valley.

The neighbouring appellation of Côtes du Luberon AOC stretches along Ventoux' southern border and is separated from it by the Calavon river. The wines are produced in 36 communes of the Vaucluse département. The Côtes du Luberon AOC accounts for 5% of the total AOC wine production in the Rhône Valley.

Vin de Pays (VDP)/ IGP

Vin de Pays (VDP) is the French national equivalent of the Europe-wide IGP (Indication Géographique Protégée), a quality category of French wine, positioned below the Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée (AOC). This layer of the French classification system underwent several revisions in the past decades.

There are now more than 150 VDP/IGP titles, covering locations mostly in the southern third of France. The Vin de Pays category is subdivided into three levels of geographical specificity.

The top regional level has six divisions, corresponding roughly to existing wine regions. These are: VDP du Jardin de la France (Loire); VDP de L'Atlantique (Bordeaux, Dordogne, Charentais); VDP du Comte Tolosan (South-West); VDP d'Oc (Languedoc-Roussillon); VDP Portes de Mediterranee (Provence and Corsica); and VDP des Comtes Rhodaniens (Rhône Valley, Beaujolais and Savoie). The center of the Rhone Valley is covered by both the Comtes Rhodaniens and Portes de Mediterranee titles.

The next layer is departmental, reflecting France's wider administrative structure. Of France's 100-odd departements, 52 have their own VDP titles.

The most finely tuned level consists of the 93 Vins de Pays de Zone, the most location-specific titles. These have tighter production regulations, sometimes approaching the strictness of AOC laws. Their evocative, sometimes lengthy, names are intentionally designed to avoid confusion with nearby AOC titles.

Collines Rhodaniennes is the IGP title for red, white and rosé wines from an area which essentially corresponds to the northern Rhône Valley wine region.

Coteaux du Pont du Gard is an IGP title covering wines from an area of the Gard department, at the meeting point of the Languedoc, Rhône and Provence wine regions.

Bouches-du-Rhône is the IGP title for wines made in the Bouches-du-Rhône area.

Vin de France

Vin de France is a designation for table wine from France that has been in use since 2010, when it started to replace the former Vin de Table category. Unlike IGP and AOP wines, Vin de France wines do not indicate the wine's geographical origin within France.

Northern Rhône

The northern Rhône is characterised by a continental climate with harsh winters but warm summers. Its climate is influenced by the mistral wind, which brings colder air from the Massif Central. Northern Rhône is therefore cooler than southern Rhône, which means that the mix of planted grape varieties and wine styles is different.

Pictures: Côte-Rôtie

Syrah is the only red grape variety permitted in red AOC wines from the Northern Rhône. For wines bearing the Cornas AOC designation, Syrah must be used exclusively, whereas other reds from the northern Rhône sub-region may be blended with white wine grapes, either Viognier or Marsanne and Roussanne, depending on the appellation. However, while this is allowed by the AOC rules, blending with white grapes is widely practiced only for Côte-Rôtie AOC.

Viognier by itself is used for white wines from Condrieu and Château-Grillet. Marsanne and Roussanne are in turn used for the whites from Crozes-Hermitage, Hermitage, Saint Joseph, and Saint Péray.

Pictures: Hermitage

From north to south the AOCs in the northern Rhône are:

Côte-Rôtie AOC - Reds of Syrah and up to 20% Viognier.
Condrieu AOC - Whites of Viognier.
Château-Grillet AOC - Whites of Viognier.
Saint-Joseph AOC - Reds of Syrah and up to 10% Marsanne and Roussanne; whites of only Marsanne and Roussanne.
Crozes-Hermitage AOC - Reds of Syrah and up to 15% Marsanne and Roussanne; whites of only Marsanne and Roussanne.
Hermitage AOC - Reds of Syrah and up to 15% Marsanne and Roussanne; whites of only Marsanne and Roussanne.
Cornas AOC - Reds of Syrah only.
Saint-Péray AOC - Sparkling and still whites of only Marsanne and Roussanne.

Southern Rhône

The southern Rhône sub-region has a more Mediterranean climate with milder winters and hot summers. Drought can be a problem in the area, but limited irrigation is permitted. The differing terroirs, together with the rugged landscape which partly protects the valleys from the Mistral, produce microclimates which give rise to a wide diversity of wines.

A feature of the cultivation of the region is the use of large pebbles around the bases of the vines to absorb the heat of the sun during the day to keep the vines warm at night when, due to the cloudless skies, there is often a significant drop in temperature.

The southern Rhône's most famous red wine is Châteauneuf-du-Pape, a blend containing up to 19 varieties of wine grapes (ten red and nine white) as permitted by the Châteauneuf-du-Pape AOC rules.

White wines from the southern Rhône sub-region, such as in Châteauneuf-du-Pape whites, are also typically blends of several wine grapes. These may include Ugni blanc, Roussanne, Bourboulenc, Picpoul, and Clairette. Since about 1998 Viognier is increasingly being used and is also appearing as a single varietal.

Fortified wines (vin doux naturel) are made in the Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise AOC and Rasteau AOCs.

Southern Rhône AOC:

Côtes du Rhône AOC
Côtes du Rhône Villages AOC
Côtes du Rhône Villages + village name AOC

Beaumes de Venise AOC
Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise AOC 
Gigondas AOC
Lirac AOC,
Rasteau AOC
Tavel AOC
Vacqueyras AOC
Vinsobres AOC
Cairanne AOC.
Coteaux du Tricastin AOC
Châteauneuf-du-Pape AOC

Grignan-lès-Adhémar AOC
Costières de Nîmes AOC
Côtes du Vivarais AOC
Duché D’Uzès AOC
Ventoux AOC
Côtes du Luberon AOC

Châteauneuf-du-Pape AOC

Châteauneuf-du-Pape is about 12 kilomeres north of Avignon. Almost all the cultivable land is planted with grapevines. A ruined medieval castle sits above the village and dominates the landscape to the south. It was built in the 14th century for Pope John XXII, the second of the popes to reside in Avignon.

Châteauneuf-du-Pape is the most renowned appellations of the southern part of the Rhône Valley. Vineyards are located around Châteauneuf-du-Pape and in the neighboring villages Bédarrides, Courthézon and Sorgues between Avignon and Orange and cover slightly more than 3,200 hectares.

Châteauneuf-du-Pape exists as red and white wine, with the large majority of the wines produced being red. The appellation rules do not allow rosé wines to be made.

Châteauneuf-du-Pape is traditionally cited as allowing thirteen grape varieties to be used, but the 2009 version of the AOC rules in fact list eighteen varieties. Red varieties allowed are Cinsaut, Counoise, Grenache noir, Mourvèdre, Muscardin, Piquepoul noir, Syrah, Terret noir, and Vaccarèse (Brun Argenté). White and pink varieties are Bourboulenc, Clairette blanche, Clairette rose, Grenache blanc, Grenache gris, Picardan, Piquepoul blanc, Piquepoul gris, and Roussanne.

Both red and white varieties are allowed in both red and white Châteauneuf-du-Pape. There are no restrictions as to the proportion of grape varieties to be used. Most Châteauneuf-du-Pape wines are blends dominated by Grenache, which accounts for about 3/4 of the total vinyard surface, followed by Syrah (10.5%) and Mourvèdre (7%).

Pictures: Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Grape Varieties in the Rhône AOC System

21 grape varieties are officially included in the Rhône AOC System.

Syrah is the only red grape variety permitted in red AOC wines from the Northern Rhône. For Cornas AOC wines, Syrah must be used exclusively, whereas other reds from the Northern Rhône AOC wine region may be blended with white wine grapes, either Viognier or Marsanne and Roussanne, depending on the appellation. However, while this is allowed by the AOC rules, blending with white grapes is widely practiced only for Côte-Rôtie AOC.

White wines in the Northern Rhône AOC region are made with Viognier, Marsanne and Roussanne. The white wines of Condrieu AOC, where only white wines are produced, and Château-Grillet AOC are 100% Viognier. The white wines of Crozes-Hermitage AOC, Hermitage AOC, St. Joseph AOC and Saint Péray AOC, which only produces white wines, are blends of Marsanne and Roussanne.

In the Southern Rhône AOC wine region, Grenache-based blends are the rule for red wines, mostly complemented with Syrah nd Mourvèdre. Generally for red and rosé wines, Grenache must constitute at least 40% of the blend.

For Vacqueras AOC wines, Grenache must constitue at least 50% of the blend and Syrah and or Mouvedre for not more than 20%.

For Gigondas AOC red wines, there is a maximum of 80% for Grenache and a minimum of 15% for Syrah nd Mourvèdre.

For white wines, 15 different grape varities can be used and 80% of the grapes must be made up of Grenache Blanc, Clairette, Marsanne, Roussanne, Bourboulenc, and Viognier.

Crémant de Die and Clairette de Die

The Drôme is a tributary of the Rhône which, conveniently, serves as the dividing line between the wines of the northern and the southern Rhône wine region. north and south. The vineyards of Die are located in this river valley.

Although the Die region stands isolated in an area of otherwise very little wine production between the northern and southern wine producing parts of the Rhône valley, the making of sparkling wine in the Die region can be traced back over two thousand years.

There is Crémant de Die and Clairette de Die.

Crémant de Die is vinified by the traditional Champagne method of a first fermentation in the vat followed by a second fermentation in the bottle. The following grape varieties are used: Clairette (55% minimum), Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains (5 to 10%), and Aligoté (10 to 40%). Production of this wine began in the 1960s and, until 2004, was restricted to Clairette only. The wine was awarded AOC designation in 1993.

The Clairette de Die is vinified in the Méthode Ancestrale. As the first step, the grapes are fermented at low temperatures to a point where there is still considerable residual suager in the wine. As the second step, the fermentation is stopped and the partially fermented wine - the must still contains residual sugar - is bottled. As the third and final step, the fermentation continues in the bottle until all the sugar is converted into alcohol and carbon dioxide. The carbon dioxide released during the fermentation in the bottle stays in the bottle and provides the bubbles upon opening. Unlike the traditional method, there are no additives along the way. As there is no opportunity to manipulate the sugar content of the wine, it is only available in a Brut style.

In 1971, the method of production of the Clairette de Die wine was officially recognised as the "ancestral dioise process". The AOC designation was awarded in 1942.

schiller-wine: Related Postings

Upcoming Tours/ Wine Dinners/ Tastings - Annette and Christian Schiller/ ombiasyPR & WineTours/ schiller-wine, Germany, France, USA (March 1, 2018)

Ombiasy Wine Tours 2018: 3 x France and 3 x Germany - Ombiasy Newsletter December 2017

Rhône Valley Tour December 2017: From Lyon to Avignon - Wine, Food, Culture, History

New Year’s Eve at Château des Fines Roches in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, France

Understanding the Wines of the Rhône Valley: The Classification - AOC/ Vin de Pay/ Vin de France

The Rhône Wine Region in Southern France and its Wines: History, Classification, Northern and Southern Rhône

Winemaker Dinner with David Reynaud, Domaine les Bruyeres, Crozes-Hermitage in the Rhone Valley, at Chef Bart Vandaele's BToo in Washington DC, USA/ France

Tour and Tasting at Château Lafon-Rochet, 4ème Grand Cru Classé St-Estèphe, with Vineyard Manager Anaïs Maillet - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017, France

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Picture: Tour and Tasting at Château Lafon-Rochet, 4ème Grand Cru Classé St-Estèphe, with Vineyard Manager Anaïs Maillet

Château Lafon-Rochet features some of the finest vineyards in the world. It is situated in the small appellation Saint-Estèphe and is sandwiched between two prominent neighbors: Cos-d’Estournel on the other side of the street and Lafite-Rothschild, separated only by a small dirt track, and visible across the vineyard that belongs to Lafon-Rochet. Since the 16th century this Château makes excellent wines and had been in the hands of the Lafon family for almost 300 years.

Vineyard Manager Anaïs Maillet joined us for the tasting part of the visit.

Pictures: Arriving at Château Lafon-Rochet

In 1895 the phylloxera disaster forced the family to sell Château Lafon-Rochet. A period of a rapid succession of several disinterested owners followed until Guy Tesseron (who also bought Château Pontet-Canet) acquired the Château in the 1960s. He and then his son Michel brought Lafon-Rochet back to its former glory. The new generation is now at the helm and Basile Tesseron is energetically pursuing quality control.

Château Lafon-Rochet and OmbiasyPR & WineTours

Château Lafon-Rochet belongs to the 2 or 3 dozens of châteaux to which we have a closer relationship than to others.

Picture: Annette and Christian Schiller with Basile Tesseron, Owner, in New York. See: Bordeaux Vintage 2014 in Bottle: Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (UGC) on 2017 North America Tour in New York - Schiller’s Favorites

One of the first winemaker dinners that Annette organized in Washington DC was with Anaïs Maillet and the wines of Château Lafon-Rochet at BToo on 14th Street NW.

Picture: Annette Schiller and Château LAFON-ROCHET’s winemaker Anaïs Maillet at B Too in Washington DC (Picture: Charlie Adler). See:  Winemaker Dinner with Château LAFON-ROCHET Wines and Winemaker Anaïs Maillet at Chef Bart Vandaele’s Hipp B Too Restaurant in Washington DC, US/France (2014)

I still have good memories of a winemaker dinner at the French Embassy in Washington DC a number of years ago, hosted by Château Lafon-Rochet owner Basile Tesseron.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Basile Tesseron. See: Tasting the Wines of Chateau Lafon-Rochet, Saint-Estèphe, 4ème Cru Classé en 1855, with Owner Basile Tesseron at the French Embassy in Washington DC, USA/France (2012)

A year ago, Michel Tesseron treated the ombiasy tour group to a very special dinner in the private quarters of Château Lafon-Rochet.

Pictures: Dinner with Michel Tesseron. See:  At the Invitation of Owner Michel Tesseron: Private Dinner at Château Lafon-Rochet, Saint-Estèphe, 4ième Grand Cru Classé– Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

A winemaker dinner with Château Lafon-Rochet has been scheduled for Monday, May 7th in Northern Virginia. Annette Schiller is organizing the event.

Château Lafon-Rochet

Château Lafon-Rochet is a 4th Grand Cru en 1855 in the Saint-Estèphe appellation of the Medoc. It is one of the 5 classified properties in the appellation of Saint Estèphe. Its grounds are separated from those of Château Lafite to the north by the width of the road and from Cos d'Estournel by a dirt path.

Basile Tesseron, Directeur Technique Lucas Leclercq and Vineyard Manager Anaïs Maillet are currently at the helm of Château Lafon-Rochet.

Pictures: With Vineyard Manager Anaïs Maillet

History

Lafon-Rochet’s history dates back to the 17th century. The property was then known as the Domaine Rochet and belonged to Antoinette Guillemotes who renamed the estate Château Lafon-Rochet after her marriage with Etienne de Lafon..

Over the 150 years that followed, Etienne de Lafon’s heirs not only maintained the estate and coped with the various diseases and economic difficulties from which the vineyard suffered but also enabled Lafon-Rochet to enter the 1855 classification of the Grands crus du Médoc (the Great Growths of the Medoc).

At the dawn of the 20th century financial difficulties resurfaced and so new owners took over the Château. Thus began a long period of instability until the Tesseron family took over the estate in 1960.

When in 1960 Guy Tesseron, a master of old Cognac, took over the property, he had to start from scratch and rebuild the whole property. Thus began Chateau Lafon Rochet’s rebirth.

Pictures: Optical Sorter

First he concentrated on the renovation of the fermenting room and the wine storehouse before tackling the mansion itself. He decided to demolish the whole building and create a new family home for Lafon-Rochet. The plans were for an elegant Chartreuse, which was quite unusual at the time.

It took almost ten years to restore the Château, the vineyard and infrastructures. This fresh start finally paid off in 1966. As the young Michel Tesseron recalls it was the first time that Lafon-Rochet was able to present a wine worthy of Quatrième Grand cru – fourth growth. The following year, 1967, was a great vintage paving the way for 1970, one of Lafon-Rochet’s most memorable vintages. In 1975 Guy Tesseron also took over the Château Pontet-Canet, then a few years later the Château Malescasse.

Until 1999 the family jointly managed Château Pontet-Canet and Lafon-Rochet but lost the Château Malescasse, so dear to Michel Tesseron. As part of the re organization, Alfred and his brother Gerard Tesseron took over Pontet-Canet, while Michel and his sister Caroline Poniatowska took over Lafon-Rochet. Michel spontaneously turned towards the Château “jaune”, so-called since he repainted it sunshine yellow in 2000.

Pictures: In the Tank Cellar (Concrete and Stainless Steel Tanks)

Michel and Basile Tesseron

Before joining the family business in 1987, Michel Tesseron worked in in Cognac, then in Bordeaux for Barton & Guestier, and for the négociants Chantecaille.

Michel Tesseron first decided to renovate and modernize all the technical equipment necessary for production, like the magnificent circular, wooden wine cellar. In so doing he preserved the family’s core values of sharing, respecting the vines and vineyard and thus fulfilled his father’s dream.

In 2007, Basile Tesseron joined his father in order to continue the work started by his grandfather, who had already initiated the young Basile into the subtleties of the aromas and flavours of cognac.

With passion, humour and ambition, Basile pursued the work of his predecessors enabling Lafon-Rochet to live on through the centuries.

He began by redesigning the vat room of the property, reviving the quest for excellence and quality in keeping with the exceptional terroir and the human and family values that have punctuated 5 centuries of adventure.

Basile Tesseron took over with the 2007 vintage and he now has full control.

Pictures: In the Barrel Cellar

Vineyards and Winemaking

Lafon-Rochet's vineyards covers 45 hectares and are planted with Cabernet Sauvignon 54%, Merlot 40%, Cabernet Franc 4%, Petit Verdot 2%.

Basile Tesseron, Directeur Technique Lucas Leclercq and Vineyard Manager Anaïs Maillet are steering Château Lafon-Rochet towards biodynamic viticulture, following the example of Basile’s uncle at Pontet-Canet. But Lafon-Rochet has not yet been certified.

As far as winemaking is concerned, the wine cellar has been completely renovated. Importantly, Basile and Michel Tesseron decided to go the route of stainless steel tanks and concrete vats. To match the 40 different vineyard parcels, the estate now has 18 stainless steel tanks and 18 concrete vats in different sizes and shapes for fermentation. The wine is aged for 9 months in new oak and for another 9 month in used oak.

The grand vin is Château Lafon-Rochet (11000 cases). The second wine is Pélerins de Lafon-Rochet (also 11000 cases).

Tasting

For the tasting we were joint by Anaïs Maillet.

Pictures: Tasting

The Wines

Pélerins de Lafon-Rochet 2013

wine-searcher average price in US$: 22

Lafon-Rochet 2014

wine-searcher average price in US$: 41

The 2014 Lafon Rochet has a very attractive, slightly floral bouquet with raspberry and crushed strawberry fruit, a touch of rose petals lending this a feminine allure. The palate is medium-bodied with supple, ripe tannins. This feels quite dense in the mouth, a welcome pinch of white pepper and cedar lending complexity to the finish with tart cherries on the aftertaste. This is probably more forward than other Saint Estephe wines, but it should give 15-20 years of pleasure. Drink 2019-2034. Score: 90 Neal Martin, Wine Advocate (Interim En), April 2017

The Château Lafon-Rochet 2014 is a blend of 66% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc and 4% Petit Verdot picked from 1 October until 15 October. Basile Tesseron explained that there was 25 and 35mm rain between 7 and 9 October at which point the Cabernet was not able to ripen further due to the lack of water. This gave the ripeness another spurt and destroyed the pyrazines. Pumping over was about 0.5 to 1.5 the volume per day over a long period to avoid extracting any harsh tannin (especially from the seeds) with a short cold maceration. It has a complex bouquet: brambly black fruit, touches of dark plum mixed with black olive and incense. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, crisp acidity, a little chalky in texture with a precise, quite pointed finish. This 2014 continues a run of fine form for the estate. Drink 2019-2032. Score: 90/92 Neal Martin, Wine Advocate (218), April 2015


Lafon-Rochet 2011

wine-searcher average price in US$: 44

A well-made sleeper of the vintage, Lafon Rochet's 2011 exhibits a dense ruby/plum color in addition to sweet cassis, earth and spice notes, medium body, excellent depth and light to moderate tannin. It should drink nicely for a decade or more.
Score: 87 Robert Parker, Wine Advocate (212), April 2014

Lafon-Rochet 2005

wine-searcher average price in US$: 77

Dense ruby/purple and still youthful and exuberant, with oodles of cassis and incense, the 2005 Lafon-Rochet is medium to full-bodied, with ripe tannin and a long finish. Just becoming approachable. 91 Robert Parker, Wine Advocate (219), June 2015

Bye-bye

Thanks and bye-bye.

Picture: Bye-bye

schiller-wine: Related Postings (Château Lafon-Rochet)

Tasting the Wines of Chateau Lafon-Rochet, Saint-Estèphe, 4ème Cru Classé en 1855, with Owner Basil Tesseron at the French Embassy in Washington DC, USA/France (2012)

A Tour and Tasting at Château Lafon-Rochet in Saint-Estèphe, Bordeaux, with Winemaker and Owner Basile Tesseron (2013), France

An Afternoon with Owner Michel Tesseron at Château Lafon-Rochet, 4ème Cru Classé en 1855, in Saint-Estèphe, Bordeaux

Winemaker Dinner with Château LAFON-ROCHET Wines and Winemaker Anaïs Maillet at Chef Bart Vandaele’s Hipp B Too Restaurant in Washington DC, US/France (2014)

Tour and Tasting at Château Lafon-Rochet with Owner Basile Tesseron – Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Tour and Tasting at Château Lafon-Rochet with Owner Michel Tesseron – Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

At the Invitation of Owner Michel Tesseron: Private Dinner at Château Lafon-Rochet, Saint-Estèphe, 4ième Grand Cru Classé– Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Total Immersion in Bordeaux: World Class Wines and Exquisite French Gourmet Cuisine - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France Published and Forthcoming Postings)

Total Immersion in Bordeaux: World Class Wines and Exquisite French Gourmet Cuisine - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Bordeaux Wine Tour 2013 by ombiasy

Bordeaux Wines and their Classifications: The Basics

Tour and Tasting at Château La Mission Haut-Brion, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Cru Classé de Grave - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Dinner with a View: At Restaurant L’Estacade in Bordeaux City - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux City - An Update

Schiller’s Favorite Seafood Places in Bordeaux City, France - An Update

Bordeaux - En Primeur, Negociants, Courtiers, the Quai de Chartons and the Place de Bordeaux– A Short Introduction

How Does the Negociant System in Bordeaux Work? Tour and Tasting at Millésima - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Saint Emilion Wines and their Classification, Bordeaux, France

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in St. Emilion, France

Bio in Bordeaux: Cellar Tour, Vineyard Tour and Winepairing Lunch at Chateau Beauséjour and Château Langais, AOC Puisseguin-St.Emilion, with Owner/ Winemaker Gérard Dupuy - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Tour and Tasting at Château Cheval Blanc, Appellation Saint-Emilion, Premier Grand Cru Classé A - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Tour and Tasting at Château La Conseillante, Appellation Pomerol, with GM/ Winemaker Marielle Cazaux - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Tour with Dany Rolland: Château Le Bon Pasteur in Pomerol– Bordeaux Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Lunch at Château Le Bon Pasteur, Pomerol, with Dany Rolland and Benoit Prévot - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017, France

Tasting with Joël and Sandrine Duffau at Château La Mothe du Barry and Château Les Arromans in the Heart of the Entre-Deux-Mers Region - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017, France

Visiting and Tasting at Château Climens, with Owner Bérénice Lurton, Bordeaux, France

Lunch at Restaurant Claude Darroze, 1 Star Michelin, in Langon, with Jean-Charles Darroze - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Visit: Château de Chantegrive, Appellation Grave, with Owner Marie-Hélène Lévêque - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Schiller's Favorite Seafood Restaurants in Arcachon and Cap Ferret (Bassin d'Arcachon/ Bordeaux)

Visiting an Oyster Farm at Arcachon Bay, Bordeaux: Raphael Doerfler at Earl Ostrea Chanca - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Lunch at Pinasse Café, Cap Ferret - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

The 5 Premiers Grands Crus Chateaux en 1855 of Bordeaux, France

What is a Bordeaux Cru Bourgeois? France

Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Château Brane-Cantenac with Henri Luston, Owner - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Tour, Tasting and Lunch at Château Kirwan, Appellation Margaux, 3ième Grand Cru Classé, with Owner Natalie Schyler - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Visit and Tasting at Château Poujeaux, Appellation Moulis-en-Médoc, Cru Bourgeois, with Winemaker Christophe Labenne - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France

How a Barrel is Made: Visit of the Cooperage Berger & Fils in Vertheuil, with General Manager Simon Grelier – Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Tour and Tasting at Château Lafon-Rochet with Owner Michel Tesseron – Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Tour and Tasting at Château Montrose, Appellation Saint-Estèphe, 2ième Grand Cru Classé - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Tour, Barrel Tasting and Family Dinner with Stefan and Heike Paeffgen, Château Le Reysse and Château Lassus, Vignobles Paeffgen, Appellation Médoc - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017, France

Tour and Tasting at Château Léoville Poyferré, Saint-Julien, 2ième Grand Cru Classé, with Didier and Anne Cuvelier

Tour and Tasting at Château Pichon-Longueville Baron in Pauillac - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Lunch at Château Pichon-Longueville-Baron with Chef à Domicile Bernadet Damien - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Tour and Tasting at Château Beychevelle, Appellation Saint-Julien, 4ième Grand Cru Classé, with General Manager Philippe Blanc

Visit and Tasting: Château Smith-Haut-Lafitte, Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé– Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Tour and Lunch at Château Malartic-Lagravière, Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé

Tour and Wine Dinner at Château Haut-Bailly, Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017, France


Virginia's Best Wines: 2017 Virginia Governor's Cup Competition, USA

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Picture: 2018 Virginia Governor's Cup Gala in Richmond, with King Family Vineyard Winemaker Matthieu Finot (Photo: Brix & Columns Vineyards)

King Family Wins 2018 Virginia Governor's Cup for its 2014 Meritage

Governor Ralph Northam awarded the 2018 Virginia Wineries Association’s (VWA) Governor's Cup to King Family Vineyards for its 2014 Meritage. Like all wines entered in the competition, it is made from 100 percent Virginia fruit.

Picture: 2018 Governor's Cup Gala Entrance Ticket

This is the third time King Family Vineyards has won the Governor’s Cup. They also won in 2010 for their 2007 Meritage and in 2004 for a 2002 vintage Cabernet Franc. The Governor’s Cup was awarded Tuesday evening, February 27 at the Main Street Station in Richmond, Virginia.

“I am pleased to present this award to winemaker Matthieu Finot and to David and Ellen King of King Family Vineyards as well as their entire team, who have proven again that they are leaders in producing outstanding Virginia wines,” said Governor Northam. “I also want to congratulate all of the wineries included in the 2018 Governor’s Cup Case. Virginia’s wine industry has grown exponentially in recent years, with an enormous impact on economic development and tourism in the Commonwealth, thanks to the hard work of people in wineries across the state.”

Picture: King Family Vineyards 2014 Meritage (Photo: Emmy Freedman, NBC29)

King Family Vineyards’ 2014 Meritage is 100 percent Monticello AVA fruit and 91 percent estate fruit. The wine was aged 18 months in French oak and went through malolactic fermentation. The composition of the wine is 50 percent Merlot, 23 percent Petit Verdot, 21 percent Cabernet Franc, and 6 percent Malbec. The wine shows complexity with notes of bright red fruit, violets and dried rose petals with a youthful and focused structure.

“This is King Family Vineyard’s third Governor’s Cup win and it is also a win for the Monticello AVA. Well done,” Secretary of Agriculture and Forestry Bettina Ring said.

Pictures: King Family Vineyard - Ellen and Carrington King and Winemaker Matthieu Finot in Richmond

2018 Virginia Governor’s Cup Competition

The 2018 Virginia Governor’s Cup Competition was conducted over four weeks of preliminary tastings, held at the Capital Wine School in Washington, D.C in January. The final round of tastings was held at The Jefferson Hotel in Richmond in early February. The Governor's Cup award winner was selected from the 2018 Governor's Cup Case, a selection of the top 12 scoring red and white wines chosen from more than 440 entries from 100 wineries. The esteemed panel of judges, including Jay Youmans – one of only 45 Masters of Wine (MW) in the U.S. – had the difficult task of ranking each wine based on a unified scoring system.

Picture: The Judges at the Virginia Governor’s Cup Wine Competition — with Steven Spurrier, Caroline Hermann, Neal Wavra, Bartholomew Broadbent, Michael Franz, Dave McIntyre, Richard Leahy, Jay Youmans, David D. Denton, Doug Zerbst and Bill Curtis (Photo: Dave McIntyre)

2018 Governor’s Cup Case - 12 Outstanding Wines from Virginia

This year’s results offer wide geographic diversity; and patterns are beginning to emerge. The results highlight several regions that are growing grapes with distinction. Six wines are from the Monticello AVA, four wines are from the Northern Virginia area and one is from the Shenandoah Valley.

Also this year’s results show wide diversity in the grape varieties being grown across the state. Reflecting that diversity are three Petit Verdots, three Bordeaux style blends, 2 Viogniers, two Cabernet Francs and two dessert wines.

Brix & Columns Vineyards: The wines selected for the Governor’s Case were a varied mix of red and white varietals and a sprinkling of blends and dessert wines. Jefferson Vineyards had two Viogniers place: the 2015 was fermented in a combination of oak and stainless, while the 2016 was done entirely in oak. Keswick Vineyards and Potomac Point Winery both had their 2016 Cabernet Francs selected. Three Petit Verdots were chosen (all 2015): The Barns at Hamilton Station, North Gate Vineyard, and Veritas Vineyard & Winery. Blends are often seen as the perfect marriage that brings out the best characteristics of the varietals that they contain, and three made their way into the case this year. They were The Barns at Hamilton Station Meritage (2015), Early Mountain Vineyards Eluvium (2015), and King Family Vineyards Meritage (2014). Every good meal deserves a good dessert, and this case provides two very special dessert wines: Barboursville Vineyards 2014 Paxxito and Cross Keys Vineyards 2015 Ali d’Oro.

King Family Vineyards 2014 Meritage

The 2018 Virginia Governor's Cup Winner (see above).

Barboursville Vineyards 2014 Paxxito

Barboursville Vineyards: Having won designation as “Best Dessert Wine” at the Virginia State Fair and the Gold Medal in California’s Sommelier Challenge in 2017, Paxxito 2014 has now followed in the footsteps of the 2013 vintage, by winning the Gold Medal of the 2018 Virginia Governor's Cup competition. Not to be outdone by the new vintage, Paxxito 2013 came along to be tasted again in this new group of entries, by a new panel of judges, and won the Gold Medal for the second year in a row -- establishing a sibling rivalry of which more news may follow. A patient labor of intensive hand selection and extended fermentation and aging in our winery, Paxxito is capable of great aging in bottle, and worthy of the most celebratory occasions. Served by Governor Kaine to Queen Elizabeth II on her visit to Jamestown in 2007, and recognized internationally as one of our region’s finest wines, Paxxito is possibly the longest smile in Virginia wine.

Picture: Barboursville Vineyards 2014 Paxxito

CrossKeys Vineyards 2015 Ali d'Oro

CrossKeys Vineyards is a beautiful 150 acre vineyard located in the heart of the Shenandoah Valley. With gorgeous views of the Blue Ridge Mountains the tasting room is the perfect place to spend the afternoon tasting their 12 varietals.

CrossKeys Vineyards: CrossKeys Vineyards Dessert Wine, Ali d’ Oro, translated from Italian means, “Gold of the Ali.” Ali d’ Oro is produced in the Eiswine style with Vidal Blanc and Traminette grapes by our wine makers, Stephan Heyns and Steven Monson. It is also named after the owner, Nikoo Baktiar’s, late father, Ali, who inspired and supported her dream to establish CrossKeys Vineyards here in the Shenandoah Valley.

Early Mountain Vineyards 2015 Eluvium

Located at the foot of the Blue Ridge Mountains, Early Mountain Vineyards is run by a husband and wife team who strive to craft high quality wines that reflect Virginia by paying close attention to vines, soil and climate. Visit their award winning tasting room, sip wines on the cozy outdoor patio, or stay the night in their charming guest cottage.

Early Mountain Vineyards: As one of the top twelve wines in the state recognized with this honor, the inclusion of Eluvium is a testament to our winemakers, our Quaker Run vineyard, and the noble qualities of Virginia’s blossoming wine region.

Jefferson Vineyards 2016 Viognier
Jefferson Vineyards 2015 Viognier

The winery sits at the foot of the Blue Ridge Mountains and is about a mile away from historic destinations like Monticello and Ash Lawn Highland.

Jefferson Vineyards: Our winery has been awarded two places in the 2018 Governor’s Case, making it the first time a Virginia winery has the distinction of two Viognier wines in this prestigious wine competition.

Picture: Jefferson Vineyards Viognier 2015 and 2016

Keswick Vineyards 2016 Cabernet Franc Estate Reserve

Keswick Vineyards won the Virginia Governor's Cup in 2016. See: Virginia's Best Wines: 2016 Virginia Governor's Cup, USA 

Winemaker's notes: Fruit for this cabernet franc comes from the 7 acre 'Bordeaux block' at the back end of the estate, planted in Nasom series soil which is very rocky, creating excellent conditions for growing superb berries. After being hand-picked and hand-sorted, the fruit was de-stemmed and transferred to small lot fermentation units. The majority of the lots were fermented naturally as is typical of our reserves. During the course of fermentation stems were added to the units and the wine was punched down six times daily.

Picture: The Governor of Virginia, Terence Richard „Terry“ McAuliffe, and the Keswick Vineyards Team with Al and Cindy Schornberg and Winemaker Stephen Barnard - 2016 Virginia Governor's Cup Winner (Photo: Facebook)

North Gate Vineyard 2015 Petit Verdot

Nestled on 26 acres, this environmentally friendly tasting room is LEED certified and 100% solar powered. If that isn’t impressive enough their wines have been nationally and internationally recognized with over 50 medals.

Vicki Fedor and Mark Fedor: This is our finest Estate Grown wine. Petit Verdot is often used for blending and brings rich tannins and deep color to the table. We also believe this grape can make a nice varietal wine, showcasing its intensity and complexity to make it the big, bold red in the line-up. Sweet violet aromas, fresh cedar and just the right amount of French oak integrate into a soft start, bold mid-palate, and lingering finish. Pairs well with Beef Braciole or a classic aged beef steak dinner. 95% Petit Verdot, 5% Merlot.

Picture: Annette Schiller, Vicki Fedor, Mark Fedor and Christian Schiller. See: Anniversary Dinner at North Gate Vineyards with Owners/ Winemakers Mark and Vicki Fedor and Chef Sebastian Oveysi from Amoo’s Restaurant in McLean, Virginia/ USA

Picture: Christian Schiller and Mark Fedor at North Gate Vineyards, see: North Gate Vineyard in Virginia, USA – A Profile

Potomac Point Winery 2016 Cabernet Franc

Veritas Vineyards & Winery 2015 Petit Verdot

Veritas Vineyard and Winery is one of the most stunning wineries in Virginia, with a front-row view of the famous Blue Ridge Mountains from the back lawn. The winery has a barn-style tasting room that lends a cozy vibe, complete with a stone fireplace surrounded by couches that invites you to get comfortable as you sip on some of the finest wines in Virginia. From spring to fall, the vineyards often books wedding parties on the weekends that wish to say “I Do” in an unforgettably romantic location.

Pictures: Veritas Vineyard and Winery Owner and Founder Andrew Hodson and General Manager George Hodson in Richmond

Virginia Cellars 2015 The Barns at Hamilton Station Petit Verdot
Virginia Cellars 2015 The Barns at Hamilton Station Meritage

The Barns at Hamilton Station won the Virginia Governor's Cup in 2017. See: Virginia's Best Wines: 2017 Governor‘s Cup Gala in Richmond, Virginia, USA

The Barns at Hamilton Station is located in a one hundred year old barn just ten minutes outside of Leesburg. One of Virginia’s most well-known winemakers, Michael Shaps is the man behind the award winning varietals. With gorgeous views and an inviting atmosphere you’re sure to enjoy your time at The Barns. See: A New Winery in Virginia - The Barns at Hamilton Station Vineyards, USA

Pictures: Annette and Christian Schiller with The Barns at Hamilton Station Owner Andrew Fialdini in Richmond

Pictures: The Barns at Hamilton Station Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 Winning the 2017 Virginia Governor’s Cup

Now in its 36th Year

Now in its 36th year, the Virginia Governor’s Cup competition was revamped in 2012 to become one of the most stringent and thorough wine competitions in the country. The competition is a result of a partnership among the gubernatorial-appointed Virginia Wine Board (VWB), the Virginia Vineyards Association (VVA), and the VWA, which owns and manages the competition. Any wine made from 100 percent Virginia fruit was eligible for the competition, while ciders and fruit wines had their own category and medalists. All entries included an affidavit with a certification of 100 percent Virginia fruit and vineyard particulars, including grower names and location, as well as information on alcohol, acidity or basicity (pH), and residual sugar.

Pictures: Annette Schiller with Yay Youmans. MW

Both the Governor's Cup Competition and the resulting Governor’s Cup Case boost the visibility of the state's highest-scoring wines through various programs and exposure to top industry critics and tastemakers. Wine included in the Governor’s Cup Case will be used by the Virginia Wine Board Marketing Office for marketing purposes in Virginia, across the country, and around the world. Governor’s Cup Case wines will also be used by Governor Northam on select domestic and international marketing missions and other events designed to promote Virginia’s burgeoning wine and winery tourism industries.

Pictures: Annette and Christian Schiller with Former Virginia Governor Terry McAuliffe at the Virginia Governor's Cup Gala 2017

According to a 2017 economic impact study, the Virginia wine industry employs more than 8,200 people and contributes almost $1.37 billion to the Virginia economy on an annual basis. Nationwide, Virginia is in the top five states in number of wineries and wine grape production. In 2017, Virginia wine sales reached an all-time high of more than 587,700 cases or over 7.0 million bottles. More than 2.2 million tourists visited Virginia wineries in 2015.

The rapid growth of Virginia's vibrant wine industry has made it one of the fastest growing agricultural sectors in the state. Today, there are over 280 wineries in Virginia, and 300 vineyards that cultivate over 3,800 acres of grapes. Virginia wines have been gaining praise among wine critics for caliber of wines being produced and for the dramatic increases in wine quality in recent years. Both the Governor's Cup® Competition and the resulting Governor’s Cup Case® boost the visibility of the Virginia wine region through various marketing programs and exposure to top wine critics and tastemakers.

2018 Virginia Governor's Cup Gold Medalists

99 Virginia wines have been awarded gold medals in the 2018 Virginia wine competition. The gold medalists from this year's Governor's Cup were selected from 442 entries of both red and white wines, from 100 different Virginia wineries. Ninety-nine of the wines scored a 90 or higher on a 100-point score range. This is the highest number of gold medals ever received for this prestigious competition (a full list is included at the bottom of this release).

Patterns emerged with this year’s awards. Of the gold medal winning wines, strong categories for 2018 included:

- 36 Bordeaux Blend wines
- 11 Petit Verdots
- 11 Viogniers
- 8 Chardonnays
- 5 Petit Mansengs
- 3 Tannats and 3 red blends with Tannat
- 4 dessert wines

Commenting on this year’s judging, Jay Youmans said, “There are several factors that contributed to this banner year for the Virginia Governor’s Cup. Several judges commented that the white wines really stood out this year. In addition, the overall caliber of wines were outstanding. The scores of wines that were sent to the final round of judging from the preliminary round were on average, two points higher than in previous years. This is a significant difference. Combined, the end result is an exceptional year for wines in this competition.”

2018 Governor’s Cup Gold Medalists

868 Estate Vineyards, Cabernet Franc Reserve, Cabernet Franc, 2015
868 Estate Vineyards, Meritage Reserve, Meritage, 2015
Afton Mountain Vineyards, Chardonnay Estate Reserve, Chardonnay, 2016
Afton Mountain Vineyards, Tradition, Meritage, 2016
Barboursville Vineyards, Octagon, Meritage, 2012
Barboursville Vineyards, Paxxito, Dessert, 2013
Barboursville Vineyards, Paxxito, Dessert, 2014
Barboursville Vineyards, Octagon, Meritage, 2014
Barboursville Vineyards, Octagon, Meritage, 2015
Barboursville Vineyards, Vermentino Reserve, Vermentino, 2016
Bluestone Vineyard, Inc., Cadenza, Meritage, 2014
Bluestone Vineyard, Inc., Petit Manseng, Petit Manseng, 2016
Bold Rock Hard Cider, Crimson Red Vintage Dry, Cider, NV
Bozzo Family Vineyards LLC, 2nd Act, Meritage, 2016
Breaux Vineyards, Meritage, Meritage, 2015
Breaux Vineyards, Nebbiolo, Nebbiolo, 2015
Casanel Vineyards & Winery, Petit Verdot, Petit Verdot, 2015
Castle Hill Cider, Serendipity, Cider, 2016
Chateau Morrisette, 2015 Petit Verdot, Petit Verdot, 2015
Chisholm Vineyards at Adventure Farms, Viognier2016, Viognier, 2016
Cooper Vineyards,53rd Winery and Vineyard Petit Verdot, Petit Verdot, 2015
CrossKeys Vineyards, Ali d'Oro, Dessert, 2015
Doukenie Winery, Petit Verdot, Petit Verdot, 2015
Doukenie Winery, Vintner's Reserve, Meritage, 2015
Doukenie Winery, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Franc, 2015
Ducard Vineyards, Petit Verdot, Petit Verdot, 2014
Ducard Vineyards, Signature Viognier, Viognier, 2016
Early Mountain Vineyards, Eluvium 2014, Meritage, 2014
Early Mountain Vineyards, Eluvium 2015, Meritage, 2015
Early Mountain Vineyards, Quaker Run Chardonnay, Chardonnay, 2015
Early Mountain Vineyards, Chardonnay 2016, Chardonnay2016
Early Mountain Vineyards, Novum 2015, Meritage, 2015
Effingham Manor & Winery, Tannat, Tannat, 2014
Flying Fox Vineyard, Trio, Meritage, 2015
Flying Fox Vineyard, Viognier, Viognier, 2016
Fox Meadow Winery, Le Renard Rouge, Meritage, 2015
Glen Manor Vineyards, Hodder Hill, Meritage, 2013
Glen Manor Vineyards, Hodder Hill, Meritage, 2014
Glen Manor Vineyards, Hodder Hill, Meritage, 2015
Granite Heights Winery, Lomax Reserve, Meritage, 2012
Ingleside Vineyards, Virginia Gold, Meritage, 2014
Ingleside Vineyards, Left Bank, Meritage, 2014
Jefferson Vineyards, LP, Meritage, Meritage, 2014
Jefferson Vineyards, LP, Viognier, Viognier, 2015
Jefferson Vineyards, LP, Viognier, Viognier, 2016
Keswick Vineyards. Cabernet Franc Estate Reserve, Cabernet Franc, 2016
King Family Vineyards, Meritage, Meritage, 2014
King Family Vineyards, Mountain Plains, Meritage, 2015
King Family Vineyards, Loreley, Dessert, 2015
King Family Vineyards, Viognier (Small Batch Series), Viognier, 2016
King Family Vineyards. Chardonnay, Chardonnay, 2016
Lost Creek Winery, Reserve Chardonnay, Chardonnay, 2015
Michael Shaps Wineworks, Michael Shaps L. Scott, Tannat blend, 2013
Michael Shaps Wineworks, Michael Shaps Meritage, Meritage, 2014
Michael Shaps Wineworks, Michael Shaps Petit Verdot, Petit Verdot, 2015
Michael Shaps Wineworks, Michael Shaps L. Scott, Tannat blend, 2015
Michael Shaps Wineworks, Michael Shaps Petit Manseng, Petit Manseng, 2015
Michael Shaps Wineworks, Michael Shaps Chardonnay. Chardonnay, 2015
Michael Shaps Wineworks, Michael Shaps Meritage., Meritage, 2015
Michael Shaps Wineworks, Michael Shaps Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Franc, 2015
Michael Shaps Wineworks, Michael Shaps Petit Manseng, Petit Manseng, 2016
Mountain and Vine Vineyards and Winery, Grand Cru Reserve Meritage 2016
Muse Vineyards, Thalia, Marsanne, Roussanne, and Viognier, 2016
Naked Mountain Vineyard, Tannat, Tannat, 2016
Narmada Winery, Yash Vir, Meritage, 2014
North Gate Vineyard, Petit Verdot, Petit Verdot, 2015
Paradise Springs Winery, PVT, Tannat blend, 2013
Paradise Springs Winery, Meritage, Meritage, 2015
Paradise Springs Winery, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Franc. 2015
Paradise Springs Winery, Petit Manseng, Petit Manseng, 2016
Paradise Springs Winery, Chardonnay, Chardonnay, 2016
Pearmund Cellars, Ameritage Reserve, Meritage, 2015
Pearmund Cellars, Petit Manseng, Petit Manseng, 2016
Pippin Hill Farm & Vineyards, Vintner's Meritage Reserve, Meritage, 2013
Pippin Hill Farm & Vineyards, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2015
Pippin Hill Farm & Vineyards, Merlot Reserve, Merlot, 2015
Pippin Hill Farm & Vineyards, Viognier, Viognier, 2016
Pollak Vineyards, Meritage, Meritage, 2013
Pollak Vineyards, Meritage, Meritage, 2014
Pollak Vineyards, Cabernet Franc Reserve, Cabernet Franc, 2015
Potomac Point Winery, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Franc, 2016
Stinson Vineyards, Chardonnay, Chardonnay, 2015
Tarara Winery, Nevaeh Red, Merlot/Syrah Blend, 2015
Thistle Gate Vineyard LLC, Petit Verdot, Petit Verdot, 2015
Trump Winery, Sparkling Blanc de Noir 2012, Sparkling, 2012
Two Twisted Posts Winery LLC, Thomas Great, Meritage, 2014
Upper Shirley Cellars, Upper Shirley, Tannat, Tannat, 2015
Valley Road Vineyards, LC, Viognier, Viognier, 2015
Veritas Vineyards & Winery, Petit Verdot, Petit Verdot, 2015
Veritas Vineyards & Winery, Vintner's Reserve, Meritage, 2015
Veritas Vineyards & Winery, Viognier, Viognier, 2016
Veritas Vineyards & Winery, Sauvignon Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, 2016
Virginia Cellars, The Barns at Hamilton Station, Petit Verdot, Petit Verdot, 2015
Virginia Cellars, The Barns at Hamilton Station, Meritage, Meritage, 2015
Virginia Cellars, Hamlet Vineyards, Petit Verdot, Petit Verdot, 2015
Virginia Cellars, Brix & Columns Vineyards Viognier, Viognier, 2016
Virginia Cellars, Nicewonder Vineyards Viognier, Viognier, 2016
Whitebarrel Winery, Fig Wine, Fruit Wine, NV
Willowcroft Farm Vineyards, Willowcroft Assemblage Select, Meritage, 2015

Wine Producer Virginia

Virginia is the 5th largest wine industry in the US, with nearly 300 wineries and over 3,500 acres of vineyards. In the original charter of the thirteen colonies was a royal commission to pursue three luxury items that England was unable to provide for itself: wine, silk, and olive oil. Every colony made attempts to satisfy the requirements of its charter. Despite many years of failure, the early Americans persisted in their efforts. A big step forward was made in 1740 when a natural cross pollination occurred between a native American grape and a European vitis vinifera. Other successful crossings followed.

In 1762, John Carter, who had 1,800 vines growing at Cleve Plantation, sent 12 bottles to the Royal Society of Encouragement of the Arts, Manufacture and Commerce in London for their evaluation. Minutes of their meeting on the 20th of October 1762 declared Carter’s wines to be “excellent” and a decision was taken to reward Carter’s efforts with a gold medal for his wines. These were the first internationally recognized fine wines produced in America.

Picture: Virginia

Over the past 30 years or so, Virginia wines have experienced a tremendous development - to elegant and balanced, mostly European vinifera-based wines. Recently, Donald Trump as well as AOL founder Steve Case bought a Virginia winery.

Today, the vitis vinifera grapes Chardonnay and Viognier are the leading white varieties. Increasingly they are made without any or with neutral oak, to retain natural acidity and freshness. It appears Viognier is on its way to becoming Virginia’s official “signature grape”.

Picture: Christian Schiller and Frank Morgan of Virginia Live Chat. See: Virginia Wine Chat “Live” with Frank Morgan at Breaux Vineyards, Virginia, USA

For French-American hybrid varieties, Seyval Blanc is still popular, but resembles now the fresh and crisp wines from France’s South West. Vidal has become the backbone of the artificially frozen (cryoextraction), ice wine which I am not a great fan of. Cryoextraction is an approach, developed by the French, which kind of simulates the frost in the vineyard in the wine cellar.

Picture: Annette Schiller and Dave McIntyre of the Washington Post

As far as red wines are concerned, there has been a shift from straight varietal wines to blends, with the blends now being dominated by Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Mirroring the Virginia white wines, there is an increasing focus on neutral oak and clean, vibrant fruit.

Tannat, Uruguay’ signature grape from the South West of France, is showing up in more Virginia wines, usually as a blend. The only red French American hybrid which has performed consistently well in Virginia is Chambourcin, which resembles the Gamay grape of Beaujolais.

Finally, Claude Thibault, a native from France, has taken Virginia sparkling wines to a new level. His NV Thibault-Janisson Brut, made from 100 percent Chardonnay, is as close as you can get to Champagne outside of France.

See:
American Wines with French Roots: The Wines President Obama Served at the State Dinner for President Hollande, USA/France
As Close as You Can Get to (French) Champagne at the US East Coast – Claude Thibaut and His Virginia Thibaut Janisson Sparklers at screwtop Wine Bar
Claude Thibault of Thibault Janisson – an Ultra-premium Sparkling Wine Producer in Virginia, USA - at American Wine Society (Northern Virginia Chapter)

Virginia Wines in Germany

A group of wine experts, including Riesling and German wine expert Stuart Pigott, star winemaker Uwe Lützkendorf, Wolgang Junglas, President of the German Association of Wine Journalists and Writers, wine retailer Armin Busch, wine tour organizer Annette Schiller and myself, retasted the Virginia Governor's Cup Case 2016 last year in Frankfurt/ Germany. See: Tasting the Best of Virginia Wines in Frankfurt, Germany, with Stuart Pigott: Virginia Governor's Cup Case 2016

Though Stuart Pigott is mostly known as Riesling and German wine expert, the by far most comprehensive assessment of the wines of Virginia recently is the in-depth article by Stuart Pigott on JamesSuckling.com in 2017. For an introduction go to Stuart Pigott's website.

We have scheduled a tasting of the 2017 Virginia Governor's Cup Case in Frankfurt later this year: Upcoming Tours/ Wine Dinners/ Tastings - Annette and Christian Schiller/ ombiasyPR & WineTours/ schiller-wine, Germany, France, USA (March 1, 2018)

We are looking forward to taste the 2018 Virginia Governor's Cup Case in Frankfurt once it has been sent to Germany.


Pictures: Tasting the Best of Virginia Wines in Frankfurt, Germany, with Stuart Pigott: Virginia Governor's Cup Case 2016

Previous Virginia Governor's Cup Competitions

Tasting the Best of Virginia Wines in Frankfurt, Germany, with Stuart Pigott: Virginia Governor's Cup Case 2016

Virginia's Best Wines: 2017 Governor‘s Cup Gala in Richmond, Virginia, USA

Virginia's Best Wines: 2016 Virginia Governor's Cup, USA

Virginia's Best Wines: 2015 Virginia Governor's Cup, USA

Virginia's Best Wines: 2014 Virginia Wineries Governor’s Cup, USA

Governor’s Cup Competition 2013, Virginia, USA

schiller-wine - Related Postings

American Wines with French Roots: The Wines President Obama Served at the State Dinner for President Hollande, USA/France

As Close as You Can Get to (French) Champagne at the US East Coast – Claude Thibaut and His Virginia Thibaut Janisson Sparklers at screwtop Wine Bar

Claude Thibault of Thibault Janisson – an Ultra-premium Sparkling Wine Producer in Virginia, USA - at American Wine Society (Northern Virginia Chapter)

Bordeaux Meets Virginia: Visiting Rutger de Vink and his RdV Vineyards with Anne Cuvelier from Chateau Leoville Poyferre in St. Julien, Bordeaux

Northern Virginia Magazine October 2012: Wine Recs from Local Winos

Virginia Wines Shine in San Francisco - 2012 San Francisco International Wine Competition, USA

Jim Law and Linden Vineyards in Virginia – A Profile, USA

Boxwood Winery in Virginia: Lunch with Wine Makers Rachel Martin and Adam McTaggert in the Chai between the Tanks – TasteCamp 2012 East Kick-Off, USA

An Afternoon with Jordan Harris, Winemaker of Tarara, Virginia, USA

Vineyard Walk, Wine Tasting in the Vineyard and Lunch in the Tarara Tank Cellar with Wine Maker Jordan Harris, Tarara Winery, USA

Visiting Jennifer Breaux Blosser and Breaux Vineyards in Virginia, USA

Bordeaux Meets Virginia: Visiting Rutger de Vink and his RdV Vineyards with Anne Cuvelier from Chateau Leoville Poyferre in St. Julien, Bordeaux

Judging Virginia Wines in Suffolk, Virginia - Virginia Wine Lover Magazine Wine Classic 2012

A New Winery in Virginia - The Barns at Hamilton Station Vineyards, USA

Boxwood Winery in Virginia: Lunch with Wine Makers Rachel Martin and Adam McTaggert in the Chai between the Tanks – TasteCamp 2012 East Kick-Off, USA

Book Review: "Beyond Jefferson's Vines - The Evolution of Quality Wine in Virginia" by Richard Leahy, USA

TasteCamp 2012 in Virginia, USA – A Tour d’Horizont

As Close as You Can Get to (French) Champagne at the US East Coast – Claude Thibaut and His Virginia Thibaut Janisson Sparklers at screwtop Wine Bar

Visiting Wine Maker Doug Fabbioli and his Fabbioli Cellars in Virginia, USA

North Gate Vineyard in Virginia, USA – A Profile

Virginia Wine Chat “Live” with Frank Morgan at Breaux Vineyards, Virginia, USA

















Tasting at Weingut Krebs in Freinsheim, Pfalz, with Jürgen Krebs and Ann-Kathrin Müller - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

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Picture: Tasting at Weingut Krebs in Freinsheim, Pfalz, with Jürgen Krebs and Ann-Kathrin Müller

Following the visit of Weingut Rings, we drove over to Weingut Krebs for the final tasting of the day. Jürgen Krebs and Andreas Rings a buddies; Jürgen was the best man at Andreas's wedding. This was also our last tasting in the Pfalz region before the final 4 winery visits in the Rheinhessen Region, north of the Pfalz Region.

Jürgen Krebs (Techniker für Weinbau und Oenologie) and his fiancee Ann-Kathrin Müller (Hoppi Polla on facebook) were our hosts.

Pictures: Weingut Krebs

Weingut Krebs

For generations the Krebs family has been producing wines in the Freinsheim region. When Erwin and Gisela Krebs, the grandparents of Jürgen Krebs, were at the helm, the Krebs' were member of a wine co-operative. Also it was a mixed farming operation. Starting in 1982, the Krebs family started to relocate to where the winery is today and to fully shift to winemaking only. The first vintage that was bottled and sold under the Weingut Krebs label was 1989.

Jürgen Krebs took over in 2008 and was joined a few years ago by Ann-Kathrin Müller. While we were there, Ann-Kathrin was pregnan with their first baby.

Picture: Tasting with Jürgen Krebs and Johannes Jülg in Karlsruhe (Photo: Vinositas). See: Best German Pinot Noir/ Spätburgunder - Vinositas (Joachim A. J. Kaiser and Torsten Kogge), Germany

Jürgens parents - Harald Krebs (Winzermeister) and Heidrun Krebs (Winzermeister) - ares still fully involved in the winery and Jürgen's sister Simone Krebs (Steuerfachangestellte) and her partner Andreas Schwarz help when needed.

Picture: The Weingut Krebs Team

Vineyards

The vineyard area totals 17 hectares currently. Riesling accounts for 30%, Spätburgunder for 25%, Merlot for 10 and Weissburgunder for 10%.

The geology around Freinsheim provides for a potpourri of very different soils. Sand, gravel, loess, clay, chalk – everything is present in the different parcels of the vineyards. Jürgen Krebs chooses carefully which grape varieties best match the vineyard site and strives to produce distinctive wines that reflect the singular character of the vineyards.

Pictures: Tasting at Weingut Krebs

Jürgen Krebs (Focus online)

A strong personality, wines with a strong character, made with a whoooole lot of passion. Yay! He is a real character, this guy who is wreaking havoc right next to the historical gates of the idyllic wine-growing town of Freinsheim. Incredibly down-to-earth, brutally honest, his enthusiasm for life radiates out to everyone around him. Jürgen Krebs doesn't fit into any of the usual pigeon holes. He wouldn't fit anyway at a height of six foot three, and you'd never be able to keep him in. His wines are a bit like him. Expressive, lively and with a whole lot of character. You will never get a sense of brute force from his wines, but rather one of gentleness and patience. His character and his unmistakable passion for his work must have been passed on to him when he was still a baby in the cradle. His inspiration and the sensitivity he shows for the craft of wine-making were ripened off by a period at the VDP giants Knipser and Kuhn. He likes to call the process he went through there "Laumersheim brainwashing".

His wines tell a story. Since 2008 he has regularly brought his products onto the world stage showing a great deal of love for the wines, but without pushing himself into the limelight. At the end of the day it's the wine that should be the focus of attention. All his wines win people over with their power, their density and the stories they tell. They tell tales of heat, cold, storms and rain, of nature and of the people who have been involved in their creation. The greater part of his 16 hectares of vineyards are located in areas which are renowned worldwide – Freinsheimer Musikantenbuckel and Oschelskopf as well as Herxheimer Honigsack. The soil is characterised by loess, clay, sand and lime. He tends to his vines with great care and attention. At the end of the day, hard pruning, intensive foliage trimming, strict monitoring of yields, intensive selection and an experienced eye for our own vines are all vital to achieve the high quality standards he sets.

Pictures: Jürgen Krebs and Ann-Kathrin Müller

Wineguides

Gault&Millau (2 Grapes)

Jürgen Krebs is proud of his vineyards, and invests maximum effort in matching the right kind of soil to the aroma potential of each grape variety. This manifests itself, for example, in a comparison between the two Rieslings known as Great and Honigsack respectively; one is lingering, powerful and yet smooth on the palate, while the other is differentiated and slightly Spartan, with a touch of mineral aroma. The same applies to the interaction of the Spätburgunder (Pinot noir) varieties of Great and Musikantenbuckel. (…)

Falstaff Wine Guide

Jürgen Krebs has managed to make his wines reflect the diversity of soil-types found in Herxheim and Freinsheim. They nevertheless also come with his own personal stamp, albeit applied with a force that respects a sense of proportion. They solidly reflect the craftsman’s skill; a skill that grows with experience. (…)

Eichelmann (2.5 Stars)

Harald and Jürgen Krebs have once again come to this year’s event with a consistent collection containing some top wines. Particularly strong highlights include the two Herxheim Rieslings: Honigsack, which leaves a powerful impression with its straightforward and long-lasting character, and Himmelreich, with its fine woody flavour, outstanding fruity notes and complex, stimulating character. Krebs comes to the 2013 event with the complexly structured Spätburgunder (Pinot noir) character of his Musikantenbuckel, along with a second outstanding Pinot, (…) known as Great which could not be more different from Musikantenbuckel in terms of structure and lingering finish.

The Wines we Tasted


2016 Weingut Krebs Riesling trocken

2016 Weingut Krebs Freinsheim Riesling trocken

2015 Weingut Krebs Freinsheimer Oschelskopf Riesling "auf dem mittleren Gross" trocken

2015 Weingut Krebs Freinsheimer Musikantenbuckel Riesling "Halbstück" trocken

2015 Weingut Krebs Herxheimer Honigsack Riesling "Honigsack" trocken

2015 Weingut Krebs Herxheimer Himmelreich Riesling "Himmelreich" trocken

2016 Weingut Krebs Weissburgunder trocken

2015 Weingut Krebs Freinsheimer Musikantenbuckel Weissburgunder "Musikantenbuckel" trocken


2015 Weingut Krebs Spätburgunder trocken

2015 Weingut Krebs Freinsheim Spätburgunder trocken

2015 Weingut Krebs Freinsheimer Oschelskopf Spätburgunder "Gross" trocken

2013 Weingut Krebs Freinsheimer Musikantenbuckel Spätburgunder "Musikantenbuckel" trocken


2015 Weingut Krebs Freinsheim Merlot & Cabinet Sauvignon trocken

2015 Weingut Krebs Cuvée Schwarzer Krebs" Reserve


Bye-bye

Thanks Jürgen for a great tasting.

Picture: Bye-bye

schiller-wine: All Postings (Published and Forthcoming): Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: Baden, Alsace, Pfalz and Rheinhessen

Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: Baden, Alsace, Pfalz and Rheinhessen

Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour (and Lunch) with Robert Schätzle, Owner/ Winemaker, Weingut Schloss Neuweier in Baden - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

La Cucina della Passione and Weingut Schloss Neuweier Wines: Wine Pairing Lunch at Röttele’s Restaurant (1 Star Michelin) at Schloss Neuweier, with Owner and Winemaker Robert Schätzle, Weingut Schloss Neuweier - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

The Music of the A Cappella Ensemble "Männer und Tenöre" and the Wines of Weingut Aufricht, Lake Constance, Baden, with Manfred Aufricht - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

The Evolving Structure of the Wine Industry in Germany– The Case of the Lake Constance Region

Schloss Salem at Lake Constance in Germany: A Museum, a School and a Wine Estate

Visit of Schloss Salem, Kirche Birnau and Weingut Markgraf von Baden - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

The Wines of the Markgräflerland (Baden): Tasting and Cellar Tour at Weingut Löffler - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Tasting and Cellar Tour at Weingut Stigler, Baden, with Andreas, Regina and Max Stigler - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Dinner at Restaurant Schwarzer Adler, 1 Star Michelin, Oberbergen, Kaiserstuhl, Baden - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars and Wine Taverns in Freiburg, Baden, Germany

The World Class Wines of Alsace

In the world class white wine region Alsace

Tasting at Domaine Marcel Deiss in Bergheim, Alsace - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Lunch in Alsace: Wistube du Sommelier in Bergheim and L’Epicurien in Colmar - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Tasting at Domaine Dirler-Cadé with Jean Pierre Dirler and Ludevine Dirler-Cadé - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Tour and Tasting at Domaines Schlumberger in Guebwiller, Alsace - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Tour and Tasting at Hugel in Riquewhir, Alsace, with Jean Frédéric Hugel - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Dinner at the 1 Michelin Star Restaurant L’Achémille in Kaysersberg, with Owner/ Chef Jérome Jaegle - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Wine Lunch at Weingut Jülg with Johannes Jülg– Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Tasting at Maison Jülg in Seebach, Alsace, with Peter Jülg - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Schiller's Favorite (Wine-) Restaurants in Deidesheim in the Pfalz, Germany

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz in Siebeldingen, Pfalz, with Hansjörg and Valentin Rebholz and Sabine Wagner - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Münzberg/ Gunter Kessler in Landau-Godramstein, Pfalz, with Owner/ Winemaker Gunter Kessler - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Tasting and Cellar Tour at Weingut Rings in Freinsheim, Pfalz, with Andreas Rings - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Tasting at Weingut Krebs in Freinsheim, Pfalz, with Jürgen Krebs

Tasting at Sekthaus Raumland in Flörsheim-Dalsheim, Rheinhessen, with Heide-Rose and Volker Raumland

Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Philipp Wittmann and Eva Clüsserath-Wittmann at Weingut Wittmann in Westhofen – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2014)

Cellar Tourvisit and Tasting at Weingut Gröbe in Westhofen, Rheinhessen, with Fritz Gröbe

Cellar Tour and Wine Pairing Lunch at Weingut Louis Guntrum in Nierstein, Rheinhessen, with Konstantin and Stephanie Guntrum








Winemaker Dinner with the Wines of World Renowned Weingut Wwe. Dr. H. Thanisch - Erben Mueller-Burggraef and the Food of Executive Chef Paul Stearman at Lyon Hall, Washington DC/ Arlington

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Picture: Derek Vinnicombe, Barbara Rundquist, Owner, Weingut Wwe. Dr. H. Thanisch - Erben Mueller-Burggraef, and Christian Schiller at Lyon Hall, Washington DC/ Arlington

Barbara Rundquist, Owner of renowned Weingut Wwe. Dr. H. Thanisch - Erben Mueller-Burggraef, was in town (Washington DC). I  enjoyed a winemaker dinner with her and her wines at Lyon Hall in Arlington, Northern Virginia.

Lyon Hall's new Excutive Chef  Paul Stearman, previously Executive Chef at Robert Wiedmeier's gourmet temple Marcel's on Pennyslvania Avenue, prepared an outstanding menu that went very well with the Mosel wines, ranging from dry to fruity-sweet.

Picture: Invitation

Barbara Rundquist was in the US with the so-called Derek Vinnicombe group. Derek Vinnicombe is a wine broker and US importer, based in Germany. He comes annually to the US with a group of 10 to 15 winemakers and tours the US extensively for about 10 days. Well known in the Washington DC region are the tastings of his group at finewine in Gaithersburg.

At the dinner, Derek Vinnicombe also present 3 wines of Weingut Bollig-Lehnert. In fact, Owner/ Winemaker Stefan Bollig is his brother-in-law.

Annika Collins, Wine Director, Northside Social, organized and managed the dinner.

Finally, Frank Heyden, Owner and Winemaker, Weingut Dr. Heyden, joined us later in the evening and presented one wine after he had finished his tasting event in near-by Northside Social.

Picture: Lyon Hall

Weingut Wwe. Dr. H. Thanisch - Erben Mueller-Burggraef: Old and New

Weingut Wwe. Dr. H. Thanisch - Erben Mueller-Burggraef is at the same time a very old and a very young wine producer. 

The wine-growing tradition of the Thanisch family can be traced back more than 350 years. In 1636, the name was mentioned for the first time in the registers of Bernkastel-Kues. The quality of the family’s wines soon extended their excellent reputation far beyond the Mosel valley. At the end of the 18th Century, the Thanischs acquired the Berncasteler Doctor vineyard, a very steep site with deep devon slate structure, situated behind and overlooking the rooftops of the quaint old town of Bernkastel. The Doctor name originates in a legend about Prince Boemond II of Trier who fell sick and then was cured by a wine from this vineyard. Medicinal powers of fine wines are today being re-discovered! The Doctor Vineyard is one of the most famous German sites.

In 1988, the Weingut Wwe. Dr. H. Thanisch was split up into two parts: Weingut Wwe. Dr. H. Thanisch - Erben Thanisch and Weingut Wwe. Dr. H. Thanisch - Erben Mueller-Burggraef.

Weingut Wwe. Dr. H. Thanisch - Erben Mueller-Burggraef and Barbara Rundquist-Müller

“Wwe” is the short version for the German word “Witwe” which means widow. The viticultural tradition of the family dates from 1650. Dr. Hugo Thanish, a Prussian deputy, established the estate ́s international reputation, primarily by the spectacular awards and high prices for his wines at auctions. In 1895 his wife Katharina took the responsibilities of the estate and since then women have been running the business.

"Erben" means heirs. In 1988, the Weingut Wwe. Dr. H. Thanisch was split up into two parts: Weingut Wwe. Dr. H. Thanisch - Erben Thanisch and Weingut Wwe. Dr. H. Thanisch - Erben Mueller-Burggraef. Margrit Müller-Burggraef, a granddaughter of Dr. Hugo Thanisch, became the owner of Weingut Wwe. Dr. H. Thanisch - Erben Mueller-Burggraef.

In 2007, Margrit Müller-Burggraef passed the estate on to her nice, Barbara Rundquist-Müller. "As my aunt and her husband, Walter, my father's brother, remained childless, they decided many years ago to adopt me as their daughter," explained Rundquist-Müller, so heritage and donation taxes were therefore avoided. "One of the reasons was certainly to ensure the succession of the estate."

Barbara Rundquist-Müller and her husband Eric Rundquist had joined the family business in 1983 before the split-up of Weingut Wwe. Dr. H. Thanisch, managing international sales and marketing.

Pictures: Derek Vinnicombe, Barbara Rundquist, Owner, Weingut Wwe. Dr. H. Thanisch - Erben Mueller-Burggraef, and Christian Schiller at Lyon Hall, Washington DC/ Arlington

Weingut Wwe. Dr. H. Thanisch - Erben Mueller-Burggraef

Weingut Wwe. Dr. H. Thanisch - Erben Mueller-Burggraef is in the Middle Mosel in the charming town of Bernkastel-Kues. The vineyard area totals 15 hectares of prime steep Riesling sites, with the most prestigious and famous being the Bernkasteler Doctor vineyard.

Weingut Wwe. Dr. H. Thanisch - Erben Mueller-Burggraef also has plots in the Bernkastler Graben, Bernkastler Lay, Bernkastler Badstube, Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr, Graacher Himmelreich and Wehlener Sonnenuhr. Annual production averages 7000 cases.

Weingut Wwe. Dr. H. Thanisch - Erben Mueller-Burggraef got 2 grapes (out of 5) in the Gault & Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2018.

Interestingly, Weingut Wwe. Dr. H. Thanisch - Erben Thanisch is about half the size of Weingut Wwe. Dr. H. Thanisch - Erben Mueller-Burggraef and got 3 grapes in Gault & Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2018.

Picture: Stefan Bollig, Weingut Wwe. Dr. H. Thanisch - Erben Mueller-Burggraef Owner Barbara Rundquist-Mueller and Annette Schiller. See: Wine Caravan from Germany Visiting the East Coast, US: Dr. Fischer, Fitz Ritter, Bolling-Lehnert, Schneider, Dr. Thanisch

During the dinner, Barbara Rundquist-Müller talked about her way of growing grapes and making wine. A lot of what she said was summarized very well in a Huffington Post article by Brad Haskel, from which I am quoting below (Dr. H. Thanisch - Erben Mueller-Burggraef: Refining Tradition in Mosel Riesling).

Barbara Rundquist-Müller: Viticulture in the Mosel valley is dictated by the unique countryside. The character of the growing area is formed by the special geological, topographical, and micro-climatic configuration. Over a period of 15 million years, the Mosel dug into a slate filled mountain range full of minerals that developed 400 million years ago. The slate erodes easily and its components decay and enrich the soil, which are dissolved in the ground water and absorbed by the vines. Due to the sheltered position of the Mosel valley, it is part of the warmest climactic zones in Germany. The capability of the Mosel River and the soil to store heat and reflect sunlight, minimizes photosynthesis, making winegrowing possible in this, otherwise very cool region.

Barbara Rundquist-Müller: We grow on legendary sites. Many of our vineyards have a slope gradient of more than 60%. Handwork is necessary all year around from the cultivation of the wines until the harvest. The valuable combination of steep slopes, soil characteristic, and climate presents our vines with the best possible conditions for development. The natural and necessary interplay between terroir and vines creates continuously impressive and unique taste compositions of our wines.

Barbara Rundquist-Müller - Sustainable farming. Doing the Right Thing in the Vineyard: We use careful pruning of vines to restrict yields (Average yield is less than 5000 litres per hectare). We use no artificial fertilizers. We only bring back into the vineyard what has been taken out of the vineyard. We work the cuttings from prunings, skins after pressing, etc...back into the soil. No use of herbicides. No use of pesticides. No use of insecticides. We use pheromones instead. No irrigation. Careful canopy management. We pick by hand, selectively over several weeks with each vineyard harvested 3 to 4 times, to ensure the grapes will be harvested at optimum ripeness.

Cellar

Barbara Rundquist-Müller - Doing the Right Thing in the Cellar: We gently press destalked whole grapes at very low pressure. There is skin contact in the juice for many hours to extract as much vineyard character as possible. No use of enzymes. We cool and extract the clean juice. We clear the must only by sedimentation. We do a slow and cold fermentation with natural yeast; either in stainless steel or in traditional wooden barrels. The choice is a winemaker decision. Natural yeast helps focus the character of the terroir of the vineyards. After fermentation many of the wines are left to settle and mature for several months in traditional old wood barrels, which gives more complexity and structure to the wines.

Bernkasteler Doctor

Bernkasteler Doctor is one of the most famous vineyard names in the world, although the wines that are currently made there do not have the reputation any more that they used to have. The Doctor is a small (3.3 hectares) plot – south-facing, and with an extremely steep slope of between 45% and 60%.

The Berncasteler Doctor was owned by Count von der Leyen until 1760, and in 1794, under French rule, declared community property. During most of the 19th century, the Doctor was leased to the Thanisch family and it eventually became the property of Dr. Hugo Thanisch and his wife Katharina.

Picture: Christian Schiller at the Doctorkeller Weingut Dr. Thanisch

Pictures: Bernkasteler Doctor. See: The Wines of the Bernkasteler Doctor, Bernkastel-Kues in the Mosel Valley, Germany

As part of the 1971 German Wine Law, the Bernkasteler Doctor’s boundaries were extended. The owners of the original vineyard understandably objected, and the matter was not settled in court until 1984.  As a result, the vineyard boundary remained extended to the west, encompassing what was once part of the adjacent Graben vineyard, but not to the east. By way of appeasement, this land was renamed Alte Badstube am Doctorberg.

The vineyard is planted exclusively with Riesling vines, about 45% of which are ungrafted. Today, the Bernkasteler Doctor is divided up among the following owners:

Weingüter Geheimrat J. Wegeler - Gutshaus Bernkastel
Weingut Wwe. Dr. H. Thanisch – Erben Thanisch
Weingut Wwe. Dr. H. Thanisch – Erben Müller-Burggraef
Patrick Lauerburg
Weingut Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt (0,06 hectare leased from Wegeler)
Heilig-Geist-Stiftung (owns 0,26 hectare, leased for 10 years in 2006 by  Weingüter Wegeler and Weingut Witwe Dr. Thanisch – Erben Müller-Burggraef)

The Doctor's Wife
(by Ben Giliberti, CW Director of Wine Education)

Ben Giliberti: Barbara Rundquist-Müller doesn't mind it a bit that her husband is the most famous Doctor in the little German village of Bernkastel. Fortunately, neither does her other husband, Erik, the engineer. That's because the "Doctor" is not a person, but the most celebrated vineyard in all of Germany, the legendary Berncasteler Doctor. Like France's Romanée-Conti, the Doctor is as much a national treasure as it is a working vineyard. In 2007, after a long drawn-out journey through the torturous German laws of inheritance, Barbara finally acceded to sole ownership of a priceless 2.5 acre portion of the gem-like 7.6 acre cru. ...

One might reasonably assume that wine from the "Romanée-Conti of Germany" would sell for hundreds, if not thousands, of dollars a bottle. Indeed, as late as the 1960s, Doctor Riesling did sell at DRC prices. Today, however, like almost all German Rieslings, Berncasteler Doctor is astonishingly underpriced -- only $39.99 during our Special Sale (details below). I can't think of another wine that offers the unforgettable experience of tasting the very best the world has to offer at a price so modest.

Although the Doctor of Bernkastel undoubtedly couldn't get into medical school today, his name comes from his putative healing powers. According to legend, in the 14th century the visiting Prince of Trier fell ill with a severe fever during his stay at a nearby castle. No medicine or any of his eminent doctors were able to cure him. Fortunately, he had had been supplied with a small barrel of wine from a nearby vineyard, and after ample consumption, made a miraculous recovery. Summoning the winemaker to thank him, the Prince gave him the vineyard and pronounced, "the very best Doctor grows on this Moselle mountain." From that day forward, the vineyard has been known as Berncasteler Doctor.

While the source of the Doctor's healing powers is subject to debate, the source of its greatness as a vineyard is not. It is warmer than the surrounding area. Its steep, southwest facing slopes form a perfect natural amphitheater that captures the last warming rays of the sun as it sets over the arched steeples of the sleepy village below. The salubrious effect of the Berncasteler Doctor's unique microclimate is illustrated in this winter lithograph (right). The warmth of the vineyard's soil has melted away the snow, while the sites on either side with less favorable positioning have remained snow-covered.

The name Thanisch is inseparably linked to the Doctor. The Thanisch family acquired the 7.6 acre vineyard at the end of the 18th century. During the 19th century the estate achieved its worldwide reputation under the leadership of Hugo Thanisch, a Doctor of Philosophy and a member of the county government. Capable of producing some of Germany's greatest Rieslings, the Doctor wines were quite expensive in the past. For example, as late as the 1960s, the 1959 Doctor Spätlese sold for $10.25 while the 1959 Ch. Petrus could be purchased for only $7.95.

The Mosel Fest Wine Dinner

Reception

Belgian beer battered gulf shrimp, honey balsamic
NV Weingut Fitz-Ritter, Riesling Sekt


Dinner


Fluke & vegetable crudo, shallot ginger vinaigrette, EVOO
2016 Weingut Wwe. Dr. H. Thanisch – Erben Müller-Burggraef, Riesling Dr. Thanisch


Diver scallop & ham, spinach, chervil beurre blanc
2015 Weingut Bollig-Lehnert, Piesporter Goldtröpfchen, Riesling Spätlese

Weingut Bollig-Lehnert is located in Trittenheim along the Mosel River. Bolling is a fine example of the new generation of Mosel vintners. The family has been producing wine since the 17th Century, but new cellars and house have been built on the outskirts of Trittenheim.


Wild mushroom tratine, juienne apple
2015 Weingut Bollig-Lehnert, Trittenheimer Apotheke, Riesling, Kabinett


Virginia lamb loin with dill & mustard, potato gratin, chiffonade brussels, Riesling lanb jus
2014 Weingut Wwe. Dr. H. Thanisch – Erben Müller-Burggraef, Riesling, Spätlese Trocken


Humble fog, apricot compote, candied hazelnuts
2014 Weingut Wwe. Dr. H. Thanisch – Erben Müller-Burggraef, Bernkasteler Badstube, Riesling, Kabinett


Add-on: Dr. Heyden Silvaner

Frank Heyden, Owner and Winemaker, Weingut Dr. Heyden, joined us later in the evening and presented one wine after he had finished his tasting event in near-by Northside Social.

2016 Weingut Dr. Heyden, Silvaner, Alte Reben, trocken


Lyon Hall and Excutive Chef Paul Stearman

Zagat: “Tasty Alsatian dishes” like “great mussels” and oversized pretzels paired with a “great beer list and lots of wines by the glass” keep the trade brisk at this French-German brasserie in the heart of Arlington featuring art deco decor and “novel bathrooms” where opposite sexes share the sink; “friendly” service adds to the charm, ditto the “affordable happy hour.”

Paul Stearman has been the Executive Chef of Lyon Hall since January 2018, after working with Robert Wiedmeier for 20 years at Marcel's on Pennsylvania Avenue, in the last 7 years as Executive Chef.

Picture: Pure Chablis at Marcel's in Washington DC with Sommelier Moez Ben Achour, Christian Schiller, Jean-François Bordet and Chef Paul Stearman. See: Pure Chablis – A tête-à-tête Dinner in Washington DC at Marcel’s with Chablis Wine Board President and Winemaker Jean-François Bordet, Domaine Séguinot-Bordet, USA/France

Pictures: Lyon Hall

Pictures: Derek Vinnicombe, Barbara Rundquist, Owner, Weingut Wwe. Dr. H. Thanisch - Erben Mueller-Burggraef, and Exceutive Chef Paul Stearman at Lyon Hall, Washington DC/ Arlington

Derek Vinnicombe Heading the Caravan of Winemakers

Derek Vinnicombe is a wine broker and US importer based in Germany.

Derek Vinnicombe was, as he puts it, raised “on the bottle”, and thus followed the family tradition. William Frederick Vinnicombe, his great-great-grandfather, established a wine merchants company in Torquay (England) back in 1857. After completing college, studying German, Chemistry and French, Derek joined the Landes Lehr- und Versuchsanstalt für Weinbau und Kellerwirtschaft in Veitshöchheim near the city of Würzburg in Germany. The appreciation of fine German wines began. Following practical experience in Germany and Switzerland, he became a wine-broker and later established his own company in 1985, concentrating on the finer wines from Germany.

The winemakers spend about 10 days at the East Coast annually and visit the large cities to promote their wine. Tastings at wine stores, wine dinners, shows with sales representatives and so on takes this group from Washington DC to New York, Chicago and to other centers.

Picture: Annette Schiller and Derek Vinnicombe in Mainz/ Germany. See:Rheinhessen Cru Wines (Lagenweine) 2014 Tasting in Mainz, Germany

Bye-Bye

Thanks to all of you for an outstanding evening.

Picture: Frank Heyden,Weingut Dr. Heyden, Barbara Rundquist, Weingut Wwe. Dr. H. Thanisch - Erben Mueller-Burggraef, Executive Chef Paul Stearman, Lyon Hall, Derek Vinnicombe, and Annika Collins, Wine Director, Northside Social

schiller-wine: Related Postings

Upcoming Tours/ Wine Dinners/ Tastings - Annette and Christian Schiller/ ombiasyPR & WineTours/ schiller-wine, Germany, France, USA (March 1, 2018)

Ombiasy Wine Tours 2018: 3 x France and 3 x Germany - Ombiasy Newsletter December 2017

Wine Caravan from Germany Visiting the East Coast, US: Dr. Fischer, Fitz Ritter, Bolling-Lehnert, Schneider, Dr. Thanisch

Pure Chablis – A tête-à-tête Dinner in Washington DC at Marcel’s with Chablis Wine Board President and Winemaker Jean-François Bordet, Domaine Séguinot-Bordet, USA/France


Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Herzog von Württemberg at Schloss Monrepos, with Andrea Ritz, Wine Queen of Württemberg (2016/17) - Germany-East Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

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Picture: Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Herzog von Württemberg at Schloss Monrepos

Following lunch at the 1 Star Michelin Restaurant Gutsschenke Schlosshotel Monrepos, we walked over to Weingut Herzog von Württemberg, our last winery visit on the Germany-East Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017. See: Lunch at the 1 Star Michelin Restaurant Gutsschenke Schlosshotel Monrepos, with Chef Ben Benasr - Germany-East Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Andrea Ritz, Wine Queen of Württemberg (2016/17), was our host.

Picture: Andrea Ritz, Wine Queen of Württemberg (2016/17) (Photo: Facebook)

The House of Württemberg is a German dynasty and a former Royal family. Today, the Württemberg family still owns the castles Monrepos (where we went), Altshausen and Friedrichshafen.

Winemaking at the House of Württemberg goes back to the 13th century. Their vineyard sites are in the most prestigious parcels in Württemberg and tasting the Herzog von Württemberg portfolio is a high-class journey through the best of the best that the Württemberg wine region has to offer. Owner is H.R.H. Carl Herzog von Württemberg and he makes sure that old tradition and modern knowledge go hand in hand to produce outstanding wines.

Pictures: Arriving at Weingut Herzog von Württemberg

In 1981 a new, modern winery was constructed in the park of the beautiful Castle Monrepos, the royal family of Württemberg’s lakeside weekend and hunting retreat.

Wine Region Württemberg

Baden-Württemberg is one of the 16 German states that make up Germany. Baden-Wuerttemberg is one of the growth centers of Germany due to its booming export industries. Mercedes-Benz and Porsche are prime examples. Baden-Württemberg comprises two wine growing areas, Baden and Württemberg.

Pictures: Sekt Reception at Weingut Herzug von Württemberg with Andrea Ritz, Wine Queen of Württemberg (2016/17)

Wine from Württemberg is mainly red wine. The main production area is along the Neckar River between Stuttgart and Heilbronn. There are also vineyards on Lake Constance that belong to Württemberg.

More wine is consumed here (per capita) than anywhere else in Germany - actually twice as much as in the rest of Germany. The German poet Friedrich von Schiller wrote already several centuries ago: “A Württemberger without wine--is that a real Württemberger?”

Pictures: Tour and Tasting at Weingut Herzog von Württemberg at Schloss Monrepos with Owner Duke Michael of Württemberg and Winemaker Moriz Just. See: Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Herzog von Württemberg at Schloss Monrepos with Owner Duke Michael of Württemberg and Winemaker Moriz Just – Germany-East Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

The Trollinger is the most popular variety, which is grown almost exclusively in Württemberg. It is a nice table wine that goes well with the local food. If you are looking for a premium wine, Lemberger (known as Blaufränkisch in Austria and Kékfrankos in its Hungarian homeland) is the grape variety to go for. The Lemberger made by Weingut Dautel and Weingut Wachstetter, which we had during the tour, can compete with the best red wines in the world.

With 11,000 hectares under vine, Württemberg is Germany's fourth largest wine region. Winemaking cooperatives are very common in Württemberg, number around 70, and are responsible for almost 75% of the region's production.

Wines from Württemberg are hard to find in the US. This is partly explained by the production structure, which is dominated by co-operatives. These co-operatives are known for producing top class wines. But they tend to be less aggressive in terms of penetrating new markets.

Weingut Herzog von Württemberg

Weingut Herzog von Württemberg is located at Schloss Monrepos near Ludwigsburg. While the art of winemaking at the House of Württemberg goes back to the 13th century, the wine estate was established in 1677 only, through the creation of the „Kammerschreiberei-Kellerei“ in Untertürkheim. From the mid-17th century until the late 19th century, the House of Württemberg undertook extensive purchases of vineyards. In the early 1800s, the winery moved into the old palace in the center of Stuttgart. Completed in 1981, the modern winery is located in the romantic park of Schloss Monrepos. In the immediate vicinity is the Schlosshotel Monrepos with 81 hotel rooms, the Restaurant "Gutsschenke" and a golf course. In 2003, the Weingut des Hauses Württemberg Hofkammerkellerei was renamed Weingut Herzog von Württemberg.

Pictures: In the Cellar of Weingut Herzog von Württemberg

Today's owner is S.K.H. (H.R.H.) Carl, Duke of Württemberg, who is represented at the winery through his son Duke Michael. It is the largest private winery in Württemberg. vineyard in the wine-growing region.

The vineyard area totals 40 hectares in the following single vineyards: Berg (Asperg), Brotwasser (Monopole) (Stetten), Eilfingerberg (Maulbronn), Käsberg (Mundelsheim), Kirchberg (Hohenhaslach), Mönchberg (Untertürkheim) as well as Steinbachhof and Wachtkopf (Gündelbach). Riesling, Trollinger, Lemberger and Spätburgunder are grown.

Pictures: Weingut Herzog von Württemberg - Vineyards

Along with forestry and real estate activities, the wine growing activities are part of the “Hofkammer des Hauses Württemberg”. Today, the Hofkammer des Hauses Württemberg is a privately owned enterprise (owned by the von Württemberg family) and is based in Friedrichshafen at Lake Constance. H.R.H. Carl Herzog von Württemberg is the CEO.

Pictures: In the Cellar of Weingut Herzog von Württemberg

Tasting

We did not have a sit-down tasting, but tasted the wines during the tour.

NV Weingut Herzog von Württemberg Riesling Sekt extra trocken
2016 Weingut Herzog von Württemberg Stettener Brotwasser Riesling trocken
2015 Weingut Herzog von Württemberg Brotwasser Riesling GG


2015 Weingut Herzog von Württemberg Mundelsheimer Käsberg Trollinger trocken


2014 Weingut Herzog von Württemberg Maulbronner Eilfingerberg Lemberger trocken


2014 Weingut Herzog von Württemberg Untertürkheim Mönchberg Merlot trocken


2012 Weingut Herzog von Württemberg DUCISSA trocken (Merlot, Lemberger)


2012 Weingut Herzog von Württemberg DUX trocken (Cabinet Sauvignon, Lemberger)


Bye-bye

Thanks Andrea for a wonderful tour and tasting.

Pictures: Andrea Ritz, Wine Queen of Württemberg (2016/17), Signing

Postings: Germany-East Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours: Wine, Art, Culture and History (Published and Forthcoming Postings)

Germany-East Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours: Wine, Art, Culture and History

Wine Tasting Lunch at Weingut Frölich-Hake in Naumburg-Rossbach, Saale-Unstrut, Germany, with Sandra Hake – Germany-East Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Weingut Pawis in the Saale Unstrut Region: Tour and Wine Tasting with Marcus Pawis – Germany-East Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Tasting at Weingut Uwe Lützkendorf, with Uwe Lützkendorf, in Bad Kösen, Saale-Unstrut– Germany-East Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Schiller's Favorite Winemakers in the Saale Unstrut Region, Germany

Wine and Music:"Martin Luther Lunch" at the Historic Vincenz Richter Restaurant, Weingut Vincenz Richter, in Meissen with Senior Boss Gottfried Herrlich and the Music of Bach, Mozart and Beethoven – Germany-East Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Visit of Weingut Klaus Zimmerling: The Wines of Klaus Zimmerling and the Art of his Wife Malgorzata Chodakoska - Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Wine and Opera in Dresden: Mozart at Semper Opera and the Best Wines of Sachsen at Wine Bar Weinzentrale in Dresden-Neustadt, with Owner/ Sommelier Jens Pietzonka – Germany-East Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Dresden is the New Unlikely Place for Fine Barolo Wine: Weingut Martin Schwarz– Germany-East Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Tour and Dinner at Weingut Schloss Proschwitz - Prinz zur Lippe in Zadel, Sachsen, with Georg Prinz zur Lippe - Germany-East Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Schiller's Favorite Winemakers in Sachsen (Saxony), Germany

Vinyard Tour and Tasting at Weingut Horst Sauer in Eschendorf, Franken, with Horst Sauer - Germany-East Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Fürstlich Castell’sches Domänenamt in Castell, Franken, with General Manager and Winemaker Björn Probst - Germany-East Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Lunch with Christian L. Stahl, Winzerhof Stahl, Franken: Not only a Gifted Winemaker but also a Gifted Chef - Germany-East Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Tour and Tasting at the Historic Weingut Juliusspital in Würzburg, Franken– Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Schiller’s Favorites: 2 Legendary Wine Taverns in Würzburg – Juliusspital and Bürgerspital

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Taverns in Würzburg

Cellar Visit and Tasting at Weingut Fürst Hohenlohe Öhringen in Öhringen–Verrenberg, Württemberg, with General Manager and Winemaker Joachim Brand - Germany-East Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Tour and Tasting at Weingut Wachstetter in Pfaffenhofen, Württemberg, with Rainer Wachtstetter– Germany-East Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Lunch at the 1 Star Michelin Restaurant Gutsschenke Schlosshotel Monrepos, with Chef Ben Benasr - Germany-East Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Herzog von Württemberg at Schloss Monrepos with Owner Duke Michael of Württemberg and Winemaker Moriz Just – Germany-East Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Cellar Tour, Tasting and Dinner with Kilian Graf von Bentzel-Sturmfeder, Weingut Graf von Bentzel-Sturmfeder in Schozach, Württemberg - Germany-East Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Sebastian Fürst of Weingut Rudolf Fürst, Franken, is Falstaff Winemaker of the Year 2018, Germany

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Pictures: Sebastian Fürst, Weingut Rudolf Fürst, Winemaker of the Year 2018, Germany, with Annette and Christian Schiller at Weingut Rudolf Fürst

Sebastian Fürst of Weingut Rudolf Fürst, Franken, is Falstaff Winemaker of the Year 2018 (Germany).

Falstaff/ Christian Schiller Translation: We have to thank Monika and Paul Fürst that wine connoisseurs began to discover Bürgstadt in Churfranken in the 1980s: With its subtle Spätburgundern, but also with ripe white wines, Weingut Fürt created a reputation for itself beyond national borders. After a few years at his father's side, Sebastian Fürst now shoulders the burden of responsibility alone. He continues with a steady hand, what has proven itself, but sets with great sovereignty own accents.

Picture: Falstaff WeinGuide Deutschland 2018

“Rudolf Fürst is an acknowledged Pinot magician in Germany, not just with Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir) but also the earlier-ripening Frühburgunder.” Jancis Robinson MW, The Financial Times,13th November 2011.

“18 ha estate in Bürgstadt where some of the best Franconian wines are produce, especially the burgundy style Spätburgunders (rightly regarded as the finest in Germany).” Hugh Johnson, Wineguide 2012

Picture: Sebastian Fürst and his Wife (Photo: Falstaff/ Alois Müller)

Picture: The Nominees - Falstaff Wine Trophies 2018, with Ursula Haslauer and Ulrich Sauter (both Falstaff) (Photo: Falstaff/ Alois Müller). See: Best German Winemakers: Falstaff Wine Trophies 2018

Franken

Franken, located in the northern part of Bavaria, is boasting a long tradition and some fine terroirs (mostly shell limestone and Keuper, a kind of marl). Its two leading grape varieties are Riesling and Silvaner. Typically, Franken wine comes in the distinctive, dumpily-rounded Franken “Bocksbeutel” wine bottle. The bottle’s unusual shape dates back to at least the 16th century. The Bocksbeutel may only be used for Franken wines. In Germany, it is a sign of excellence, while in the US, many consumers link this kind of bottle shape to lower quality wine.

Pictures: In Würzburg in the Evening

Weingut Rudolf Fürst

The Miltenberg basin in the western tip of Franken between the forested hills of the Odenwald and the Spessart, where Bürgstadt is located, provides ideal climatic conditions for first-class viticulture. The weathered colored sandstone of the Centgrafenberg vineyard in Bürgstadt and the extremely steep slopes of the Schlossberg vineyard in Klingenberg are home to the most extraordinary Frühburgunder and Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir Précos and Pinot Noir) produced by Paul Fürst and his son Sebastian.

Frühburgunder (also known as Pinot Madeleine) is an old variety, autochthonous to this region, which yields full bodied wines and has attracted more and more attention over the last years. Roughly 60% of the wine produced is red.

In addition to the reds, brilliant white wines, such as Riesling, Weissburgunder and Franken’s signature wine, Silvaner, are also produced here.

The Fürst family has been producing wine in this area since 1638. In 1979 Paul and Monika Fürst built the new estate amidst the vineyards and in 2007 they were joined by their son Sebastian.

Pictures: Paul Fürst, Annette Schiller, Sebastian Fürst and Christian Schiller at Weingut Rudolf Fürst. See: Tasting and Tour with the Pinot Noir Legend Paul Fürst, Weingut Rudolf Fürst in Bürgstadt, Franken – Germany-East Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

The Vineyards

For the Fürsts and their viticulturist Sebastian Schür the vineyards are the biggest asset in the production of high qualitiy wines. Whether it's the high density of planting, best rootstocks and scions, low trellises, optimal humus content, plant protection and selective picking, all aspects are regarded as equally essential and from pruning to picking all the most important work in the vineyards is done by hand. Altogether Weingut Fürst has 20 hectares of vines, with 13 hectares of the Centgrafenberg vineyard the biggest block.

Centgrafenberg

Bürgstadt, 11 ha. As a result of the practice of gavelkind over centuries, the vineyards are split into 20 plots, creating a broad spectrum of soil composition. The higher the content of fertile loam, the better the soils are suited for growing white wines, whereas the more stony plots are perfect for the reds.

Hundsrück

Bürgstadt, 2.5 ha, partially terraced, Großes Gewächs since 2003, primary rock covered by 0.5-2m of warm, well drained and aerated surface soil The ideal vineyard soil, though quite unforgiving when it comes to mistakes in husbandry. Each year the Hundsrück makes for the most powerful and spicy Pinot in our portfolio.

Schlossberg

Klingenberg, 1.3 ha, steep terraces, red sandstone, one of Germany's famous historical pinot sites, In 2004 Paul and Sebastian bought 3 plots on this impressive slope, including the one between the wing walls of Clingenburg castle . Between 2004 and 2006 they were planted with the best Pinot vines and hundreds of yards of dry stone wall were restored.

Karthäuser

Volkach, shell limestone, Chardonnay ,Pinot Blanc, Silvaner, named for the adjacent charterhouse of Astheim.

Pictures: In the Vineyards with Paul Fürst, Weingut Rudolf Fürst

The Cellar Philosophy

Our cellar philosophy is simple, just sustain what comes in from the vineyards. After fermentation on the skins in open vats, the red varieties are left in french oak barrels for 12 to 20 months to mature and settle. All red wines are bottled unfiltered. White wines are pressed gently, fermented and aged in both barrels and stainless steel tanks for 6 - 12 months. Lowtech vinification assures each wine gets the necessary time to develop.

Pictures: Vinum WeinGuide Deutschland 2018 Editor-in-Chief Joel B. Payne, Stephan Knipser, Weingut Knipser, Sebastian Fürst, Weingut Fürst and Christian Schiller at the at the Vinum WeinGuide Deutschland 2018 Award Ceremony in Mainz. See: Germany’s Best Winemakers and Wines – Vinum WeinGuide Deutschland 2018 Awards: The Award Ceremony in Mainz, Germany

Berry Bros and Rudd: Weingut Rudolf Fürst

In the westernmost corner of the Franconian wine region, framed by the low mountain ranges of Spessart and Odenwald, the Fürst family has been making wine since 1638. In 1979 Paul and Monika Fürst built the new estate amidst the vineyards and in 2007 they were joined by their son Sebastian.

Facing due south and overlooking the picturesque towns of Miltenberg and Bürgstadt the slopes of the Centgrafenberg are home to most of the vines. Pinot Noir and Riesling thrive in the warm and iron rich soils formed by the weathering of red sandstone. The quality of the wines is founded on minimal intervention in the vineyards, reduced yields, gentle vinification and long barrel ageing (12-20 months). Red wines are bottled unfiltered.

Pinot Noir has been cultivated on the hot red sandstone of Centgrafenberg, Hundsrück and Schlossberg for centuries. Frühburgunder (also known as Pinot Madeleine) is an old variety, indigenous to this region, which yields full bodied wines and has attracted more and more attention over the last years. Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir) is complemented by other classic Franconian wines (all dry) from Riesling, Weißburgunder (Pinot Blanc), and Silvaner. White wines are pressed gently, fermented and aged in both barrels and stainless steel tanks for 6 – 12 months.

Pictures: Winemaker Dinner with Sebastian Fürst, Weingut Fürst, Franken, at Schaumahl, Offenbach/ Frankfurt, 16 Points Gault Millau, Germany

schiller-wine: Related Postings

Upcoming Tours/ Wine Dinners/ Tastings - Annette and Christian Schiller/ ombiasyPR & WineTours/ schiller-wine, Germany, France, USA (March 1, 2018)

Ombiasy Wine Tours 2018: 3 x France and 3 x Germany - Ombiasy Newsletter December 2017

Best German Winemakers: Falstaff Wine Trophies 2018

Tasting and Tour with the Pinot Noir Legend Paul Fürst, Weingut Rudolf Fürst in Bürgstadt, Franken – Germany-East Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Germany’s Best Winemakers and Wines – Vinum WeinGuide Deutschland 2018 Awards: The Award Ceremony in Mainz, Germany

Winemaker Dinner with Sebastian Fürst, Weingut Fürst, Franken, at Schaumahl, Offenbach/ Frankfurt, 16 Points Gault Millau, Germany





Tasting at Weingut J.B. Becker in Walluf, Rheingau, with Hajo Becker – Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

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Picture: Tasting with Hajo Becker, Weingut J.B. Becker in Walluf/ Rheingau

The tasting at Weingut J.B. Becker in Walluf/ Rheingau with Cult-winemaker was the last visit of a winery on the Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017. After the tasting, we had lunch at Italian Restaurant at Weingut von Oetinger (where we ran into Owner/ Winemaker Achim von Oetinger), before going to the Frankfurt Airport.

Hajo Becker was our host. His wive Eva Becker and his sister Maria Becker welcomed us.

Our tasting took place right on the banks of the Rhine River in the idyllic Weingarten of Weingut J.B. Becker

We started the day with breakfast at Weingut Kruger-Rumpf, where we stayed over-night. We crossed the Rhine River by ferry in Rüdesheim and then drove up the Rhine River from Rüdesheim to Walluf.

Pictures: Crossing the Rhine River in Rüdesheim by Ferry

Weingut J.B. Becker

Weingut J.B. Becker is in Walluf in the Rheingau , close to Wiesbaden. It was founded by Hajo's grandfather Jean Baptist Becker in 1893. Hajo Becker took over the family estate in 1971, jointly with his sister Maria Becker.

Hajo Becker is a trained winemaker. He got his formal education at the Geisenheim university and his practical education at Weingut Schloss Eltz, were he did an apprenticeship and also worked as a winemaker.

Recently, Hajo Becker married Eva and it is now a trio that is running the Becker operations.

Pictures: Welcome at Weingut J.B.Becker - Hajo, Eva and Maria Becker

Hans-Josef Becker is also one of the best-known wine commission agents in Germany, bidding on behalf of interested buyers.

The vineyard area totals 13 hectares, all in the Walkenberg site. 75% of the area is planted with Riesling. Pinot Noir and Müller-Thurgau account for the rest. The wines are traditionally matured in oak barrels for a very long time. The Riesling wines are bone-dry, and very long-lived.

Unusually, five to ten ten vintages are typically on the list of Weingut J.B. Becker.

Stuart Pigott on Hajo Becker

In 2013, Hans-Joseph Becker was Stuart Pigott's Winemaker of the Year. At this occasion, Stuart Pigott wrote a nice little paragraph about Hajo Becker in the Frankfurter Allgemeine Sonntagszeitung (in German):

Stuart Pigott’s Favorites of 2013
Winemaker of the Year
Hans-Joseph Becker, Weingut J.B. Becker, Walluf/Rheingau

Stuart Pigott: It is a paradox: In the wine scene, Hajo Becker is sometimes dismissed as old-fashioned winery, but a community of young, dynamic sommeliers and retailers adore his wines. For them, his wines belong to the most original wines in Germany – and they are right. Hajo Becker is a traditionalist - in comparison with many colleagues in the Rheingau, who run after each wine-cellar fashion. One of his most important resource is time. His Rieslings all remain a whole year in old oak barrels on the lees, which is neither nostalgia nor wanted, but simply his method. So they mature into a great harmony, regardless whether the vintage is rather lush and rich in alcohol or lean and acidic. The Becker wines are delicate and subtle. They always improve through aging in the bottle.

Those, who are only interested in the newly bottled 2012 Becker wines, miss an important dimension of Becker's flavor universe! Of course, dry wines are the focus, since Hajo Becker took over the family estate from his father in 1971. But he also produces impressive Riesling Spätlese wines with some residual sweetness, which also goes against the trend.

Pictures: Weingut J.B. Becker including Der Wintergarten

Stephen Bitterolf (vom Boden) on Hajo Becker

In the USA, Weingut J.B. Becker is imported by vom Boden (Stephen Bitterolf). Stephen has a couple of paragraphs on his website.

vom Boden: These wines taste like NOTHING else coming out of the Rheingau and Hans-Josef Becker just doesn’t give a ****.

We struggled with a more elegant way of introducing this estate, some poignant lines contrasting the manicured lawns of the aristocratic estates with the dirty-fingered, weathered-skin, mess-of-a-tasting-room aesthetic at J.B. Becker.

Yet Hans-Joseph’s (call him “HaJo”) winemaking has less to do with a condemnation or critique of the noble establishment (even if it deserves either or both) and more to do with a vision that is so singular and steadfast that it feels totally irrelevant whether you or I or anyone thinks Becker’s “aesthetic” is genius or folly. It just is.

The wines have an in-your-face, love-it-or-hate-it sensibility. They are unfailingly honest. They present a bizarre vocabulary: dried earth and rocks, herbs, something vaguely subterranean, a savory, briny, smoky atmosphere that slowly reveals fine layers of bright citrus. For all this depth and mysteriousness, Becker’s white wines are like Becker himself: angular, tensile with awkward elbows and muscle and sinew pulled tightly over a lean frame. They flaunt a rather prominent acidity that recalls the more nervy wines of the Mosel, Saar and Ruwer, though there is a weight, a density that speaks of the Rheingau. They seem to have more to do with great Chablis than with what we often think of as German Riesling.

The overall effect, one must say, is bewildering and inspiring. Becker seems to relish the paradox. If there is any grand system here, it is inscrutable.

Consider, on the one hand, that Becker (and his father before him) has worked the vineyards organically for many, many years (they have been certified since 2011). On the other hand, this rather important fact is mentioned exactly nowhere so far as I can tell. Not on the labels, not at the estate. HaJo mentioned it to me exactly once, almost as an aside. The life of the vineyard, at all levels, is profoundly important to Becker and he thinks about it deeply. He just doesn’t talk about it much.

Becker is a strong advocate of wild-yeast fermentations. This practice puts the graying wild-statesman of German winemaking right next to the young German hipster-growers, as obsessed with natural yeasts as anything else. On the other hand, since vintage 2003 Becker has bottled his wine with glass closures, which of course alienates him from this same population.

Becker prefers to use pressurized tanks for fermentation, relishing a quick, warm fermentation (a similar method is used at places like J.J. Prüm, Keller, etc). Then he racks the juice into the traditional barrels of the Rheingau for at least two years of barrel age before bottling. In other words: Gun the bitch and then slam on the breaks and wait out all the others.

Pictures: Tasting with Hajo Becker

Even with these very long élevages, Becker seems to release wines willy-nilly – he keeps older vintages around because, in a way, the wines demand it. I have had plenty of Kabinett Trockens at well over 20 years of age and they are gossamer and fine and sprightly and profound.

I’m not sure anyone really knows what to make of HaJo. Certainly there are no easy answers to anything at Becker. So here are the facts.

The estate was founded in 1893 by HaJo’s grandfather, Jean Baptiste Becker. He was a cooper and began accumulating some vineyards and voila, he started a winery. J.B. Becker died in 1944 at the age of 73. So the story goes, he saw a young child drowning in the Rhein River, yet even at his advanced age he jumped in, saved the child, then had a heart attack and died. There is a moving letter about the incident in the tasting room. Suffice it to say HaJo comes from a long line of bad asses. Becker’s father Josef grew the estate and in the 1930s befriended a young importer by the name of Frank Schoonmaker. They became good friends and Becker acted as Schoonmaker’s consultant and consolidator for some time.

Hajo himself went to Geisenheim in the 1960s and did all that proper education stuff but as he tells it, his great revelation came in the cellars of Schloss Eltz in the early 1960s. Schloss Eltz, it should be said, made some of the greatest wines of the Rheingau from the 1950s through the 70s. The wines are just epic, if rather unknown these days because the estate sold its land in the 1980s. In any event, Becker was studying with the cellar master at Eltz, a gentleman by the name of Hermann Neuser, in the early 1960s and this is where he first began tasting dry Rieslings, fresh from the cask in the cellar… before any süssreserve was added. The wines were a revelation to him and when he took over the family estate with vintage 1971, he began focusing heavily on dry Rieslings.

I remember HaJo narrating this to me one time and, with bated breath, I asked: “Well, what happened when you switched to dry winemaking?” HaJo, never one for much talking, simply said: “I lost all my customers.” And then he took another sip of wine.

Nearly 50 years later, Becker’s glorious wines are finally getting the attention and the praise they deserve. So far as I can tell he anticipated the dry wine movement in the Rheingau a few decades before anyone else. I asked him how all the new-found attention made him feel. He said, rather quietly and matter-of-factly, “Ït’s nice.”

Then he took another sip of wine.

With Hajo and Eva Becker in New York

In 2017, Weingut J.B. Becker was one of the 13 star winemakers of the Annual Rieslingfeier in New York, organized by Stephen Bitterolf.

Pictures: Annette Schiller, Eva Becker, Hajo Becker, Stephen Bitterolf, Egon Müller, Daniel Vollenweider at the Rieslingfeier in New York (2017). See:The Annual "Slaughterhouse" Riesling Feast in New York: Rieslingfeier 2017, USA

The Wines Hajo Poured


2014 Weingut J.B. Becker Blanc de Noir brut nature


2015 Weingut J.B. Becker Wallufer Walkenberg Riesling Kabinett trocken
2008 Weingut J.B. Becker Wallufer Walkenberg Riesling Kabinett trocken
1994 Weingut J.B. Becker Wallufer Walkenberg Riesling Kabinett trocken


2009 Weingut J.B. Becker Wallufer Walkenberg Riesling Spätlese trocken
2010 Weingut J.B. Becker Wallufer Walkenberg Riesling Spätlese trocken
2010 Weingut J.B. Becker Wallufer Walkenberg Riesling Spätlese trocken Alte Reben


2015 Weingut J.B. Becker Wallufer Walkenberg Riesling Spätlese trocken
2015 Weingut J.B. Becker Wallufer Walkenberg Riesling Spätlese trocken Alte Reben


2007 Weingut J.B. Becker Wallufer Walkenberg Riesling Auslese trocken
2012 Weingut J.B. Becker Wallufer Oberberg Riesling Kabinett halbtrocken
2015 Weingut J.B. Becker Wallufer Sonnenberg Riesling Spätlese 
1989 Weingut J.B. Becker Wallufer Walkenberg Riesling Auslese


2014 Weingut J.B. Becker Wallufer Walkenberg Spätburgunder Kabinett trocken
2013 Weingut J.B. Becker Wallufer Walkenberg Spätburgunder Spätlese trocken Alte Reben
2012 Weingut J.B. Becker Wallufer Walkenberg Spätburgunder Spätlese trocken
1994 Weingut J.B. Becker Wallufer Rheingau Spätburgunder Kabinett trocken


Bye-bye

Thanks Hajo for a most enjoyable tasting.

Pictures: Bye-bye

Postings: Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential German Riesling and the Northernmost Pinot Noir (Posted and Forthcoming)

Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential German Riesling and the Northernmost Pinot Noir

Weingut Georg Müller Stiftung in Hattenheim, Rheingau: Cellar Tour, Art Tour, Tasting and Vineyard Tour with Winemaker Tim Lilienström - Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Kloster Eberbach in the Rheingau: Lunch, Tour of the Abbey, the Steinberg and the Steinbergkeller, with Tasting - Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Schloss Vollrads in the Rheingau: Tour and Tasting - Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Leitz in Rüdesheim, with Johannes Leitz – Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Vineyard Tour and Tasting at Weingut Ratzenberger, Mittelrhein, with Jochen Ratzenberger - Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Rhine River Cruise in the Mittelrhein Valley, an UNESCO World Heritage Region - Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Heymann-Löwenstein in Winningen, Mosel, with Reinhard Löwenstein - Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Tasting at Weingut H.J. Kreuzberg in Dernau, Ahr, with Technical Director Albert Schamaun– Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Jean Stodden, Ahr, with Alexander Stodden - Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Tasting with Markus Molitor at Weingut Markus Molitor in Haus Klosterberg, Mosel - Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Tasting and Vineyard Visit at Weingut Immich-Batterieberg in Enkirch, Mosel, with Gernot Kollmann - Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

The Wines of the Berncasteler Doctor, Bernkastel-Kues in the Mosel Valley, Germany

Wining in Bernkastel-Kues in the Mosel Valley: Wine Tavern “Spitzhaeuschen”, Germany

Tasting and Vineyard Walk with Oliver Haag, Weingut Fritz Haag – Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Dinner at Restaurant Schanz, 2 Stars Michelin, Piesport, Mosel– Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Taverns in Trier, Germany

Cellar Visit, Vineyard Walk and Tasting at Weingut Maximin Grünhaus in Mertersdorf, Ruwer, with Owner Dr. Carl von Schubert – Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut von Hövel, Saar, with Owner/ Winemaker Maximilian von Kunow - Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Tasting at Weingut Emrich-Schönleber in Monzingen, Nahe, with Owner/ Winemaker Frank Schönleber - Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Wine Pairing Lunch at Landgasthof Zur Traube in Meddersheim, Nahe, with Petra Hexamer and the Wines of Weingut Hexamer - Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Tour, Tasting, Dinner and Overnight Stay at Weingut Kruger Rumpf, Nahe, with Stefan, Cornelia and Georg Rumpf– Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Tasting at Weingut J.B. Becker in Walluf, Rheingau, with Hajo Becker – Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours




German Wine Exports Rise in 2017

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Picture: Christian and Annette Schiller Pouring German Wine at the German Embassy in Washington DC, USA

The past year was a good one for German wine exports. The German Wine Institute (DWI) is reporting that both volume and value of export wines grew by seven percent in a year-over-year comparison. In total, 2017 saw roughly 1.1 million hectoliters of wine, valued at 308 million euros, exported to 124 different countries.

Average prices climbed by one cent to 2.89 €/l. Qualitätswein, which represented 71 percent of wine exports, were sold for 3.32 €/l on average, nine cents higher than in 2016.

The largest growth by volume came from German wine exports to Great Britain, a 28,000 hectoliter rise. That market is the fourth largest target of exports from Germany, and in 2017 accepted 121,000 hectoliters total, valued at 20 million euros (+27%). DWI Managing Director Monika Reule expressed tremendous pleasure in seeing the British market now trending upward, as it has long been a very tough one for German producers. Specialized wine dealers in particular reported notable success in selling wines from Germany's wine regions.

German wines are also increasingly popular in Poland. The rising living standard there and growing catalog of German wines available at Polish supermarkets and wine dealers propelled export wine volumes by 54 percent in 2017, to 53,000 hectoliters valued at 12 million euros.

German wine exports to China also rose significantly (37 percent by value and 25 percent by volume). Thanks to an average price of 4.59 €/l, this growth market is also a notable revenue driver. With export revenues of 19 million euros, China stands in fifth place in the ranking of key export countries for German wines.

The USA remained the largest market again in 2017, followed by the Netherlands and Norway. The US market proved highly stable in the past year. With 79 million euros and average prices of 4.23 €/l, it was the target of roughly a quarter of German wine export revenue. Wine exports to the Netherlands grew by two percent to 167,000 hectoliters, with revenues remaining steady. Norway, where German wines are the undisputed market leader in the white wine segment, also posted a slight 2% revenue bump.

It remains to be seen whether German wine exports will continue these positive trends in the current year as well, with the DWI noting that relatively low harvest yields can be expected for the 2017 vintage.

(German Wine Institute, March 9, 2018)

schiller-wine: Related Postings

Upcoming Tours/ Wine Dinners/ Tastings - Annette and Christian Schiller/ ombiasyPR & WineTours/ schiller-wine, Germany, France, USA (March 1, 2018)

Ombiasy Wine Tours 2018: 3 x France and 3 x Germany - Ombiasy Newsletter December 2017

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Invitation: Winemaker Dinner with Christian L. Stahl, Winzerhof Stahl, Franconia, Germany, at BToo in Washington DC, USA - Thursday, April 5, 2018 at 6:30 pm

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Picture: Christian L. Stahl, Winzerhof Stahl. See: Lunch with Christian L. Stahl, Winzerhof Stahl, Franken: Not only a Gifted Winemaker but also a Gifted Chef - Germany-East Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Dear Wine Folks,

you are in for a very special treat. Please join me on April 5, 2018 for a one-of-a-kind wine pairing dinner with Christian Stahl from Germany. Christian belongs to the wild generation of young wine makers in Germany who clearly want to renounce wine folklore, who clearly want to work with grape varieties true to their region, who clearly want to produce only upper premium quality wines.

Christian’s wines appeal to the demanding palate and to the ambitious gastronomy (Christian himself is also a brilliant chef!). And I do not need to mention that the menu Bart and Dieter created to match the wines will be outstanding!

For this dinner don’t think “Riesling”. Yes, I personally love German Rieslings, but there is more to German wine than Riesling. The majority of the 13 wine regions in Germany are not just “Riesling”. Christian Stahl makes wine in Franken. The Franken region straddles along the Main River (yes, that’s the river that you see when you land at Frankfurt am Main airport). The Main is with more than 320 miles the longest river lying entirely in Germany, going from East to West and flowing into the Rhine River in Mainz. This river rivals the beauty of the Mosel River with its many twist and turns and horseshoe bends. The Franken wine region starts just 60 miles east of Frankfurt Airport and is an easy 45 minute ride on the Autobahn. On your next stop over in Frankfurt - take a break and check it out!

Pictures: Christian Stahl at Annette and Christian Schiller’s Summer of Riesling 2016 in McLean, Virginia. See: Annette and Christian Schiller’s Summer of Riesling 2016 in McLean, Virginia, with German Star Winemaker Christian L. Stahl, German Wine Journalist Joachim A.J. Kaiser and Virginia Star Winemaker Chris Pearmund

Signature grape in Franken is the “Silvaner”. Silvaner is an ancient variety originally from Central Europe in Transylvania. During the 30-year war, around the mid 17-hundreds the grape came to the Franken region in Germany. Christian Stahl produces extremely racy, excitingly sleek Silvaner that can age very well.

Christian also focuses on two other unique German varieties: Müller-Thurgau and Scheurebe. Müller-Thurgau is a crossing of Riesling with Madeleine-Royale created in the late 19-hundreds. Christian understands to bring out the sexiness of the grape and to make a Müller-Thurgau that will keep you thinking about it. Scheurebe was created in 1916 by viticulturist Dr. Scheu. It is often regarded as the German answer of Sauvignon-Blanc. He crossed Riesling with Bouquet Blanc and created a grape that brings out wines with a lively acidity and intense, captivating aromas of lemongrass, papaya, passion fruit.

See you at the dinner.

CHEERS
Annette

US$69.69 per person (excluding tax and gratuity)
YOU CAN SIGN UP FOR THE DINNER HERE

p.s.

Those who came to our Riesling Party 2016 will remember meeting him as he was our guest of honor and presented his wines at the event. See: Annette and Christian Schiller’s Summer of Riesling 2016 in McLean, Virginia, with German Star Winemaker Christian L. Stahl, German Wine Journalist Joachim A.J. Kaiser and Virginia Star Winemaker Chris Pearmund

Some will remember him from a fun wine dinner at EVO Bistro in McLean in 2017. See: Franken Wines, Virginia Oysters and French-Mediterranian Food: Winemaker Dinner with Christian L. Stahl from Winzerhof Stahl, Germany, and Chef Driss Zahidi at Evo Bistro in McLean, Virginia

Those who came on the Germany-East Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017 will definitely remember the out-of-this-world lunch Christian cooked for us at Winzerhof Stahl. See: Lunch with Christian L. Stahl, Winzerhof Stahl, Franken: Not only a Gifted Winemaker but also a Gifted Chef - Germany-East Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Finally, the wines Christian Stahl will pour are all trocken/ dry.

Cheers
Christian Schiller

Pictures: Christian L. and Simone Stahl at Cleveland Park Fine Wines and Liquor Store in Washington DC, with Importer Chris Bartha, General Manager Anthony Quinn and Christian Schiller. See: Welcome to the USA: Christian L. Stahl from Winzerhof Stahl in Franken, Germany

The Menu

Dinner at BToo
Wines of Germany!
"Winzerhof Stahl" from Franken wine region
Please welcome our special guest winemaker Christian Stahl

Picture: The Menu

Welcome
Sparkling wine, Winzerhof Stahl, 2016 Secco

First Couse
Foie gras lollipop, cherries, speculoos cookies
Rosé, Winzerhof Stahl, 2016

Second Course
Cured seabass, avocado and cucumber, Persian lemon
Silvaner, Winzerhof Stahl, 2016

Third Course
White Asparagus, morel mushroom, slow poached egg
Müller-Thurgau, Winzerhof Stahl, 2016

Fourth Course
Faroe Island Salmon, ramps, griddled fiddlehead fern
Hasennest Steep Slope, Winzerhof Stahl, 2016 Müller Thurgau, Premier Cru

Fifth Course
Almond Cake, passion-mango sorbet, lemon thyme
Scheurebe, Winzerhof Stahl, 2016

Thursday, April 5, 2018 at 6:30 pm

Executive Chefs Bart Vandaele & Dieter Samijn

Pictures: BToo on 14th Street, Washington DC, NW, with Annette Schiller, Christian Schiller, Chef Bart Vandaele and Chef Dieter Samijn

schiller-wine: Related Postings

Upcoming Tours/ Wine Dinners/ Tastings - Annette and Christian Schiller/ ombiasyPR & WineTours/ schiller-wine, Germany, France, USA (March 1, 2018)

Ombiasy Wine Tours 2018: 3 x France and 3 x Germany - Ombiasy Newsletter December 2017

Lunch with Christian L. Stahl, Winzerhof Stahl, Franken: Not only a Gifted Winemaker but also a Gifted Chef - Germany-East Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Franken Wines, Virginia Oysters and French-Mediterranian Food: Winemaker Dinner with Christian L. Stahl from Winzerhof Stahl, Germany, and Chef Driss Zahidi at Evo Bistro in McLean, Virginia

Annette and Christian Schiller’s Summer of Riesling 2016 in McLean, Virginia, with German Star Winemaker Christian L. Stahl, German Wine Journalist Joachim A.J. Kaiser and Virginia Star Winemaker Chris Pearmund

JJ Prüm Winemaker Dinner at BToo in Washington DC/ USA, with Wilhelm Steifensand ("Herr Prüm") and Chef Bart Vandaele

Germany meets France: Bourgogne, Baden, Alsace and Pfalz - Tasting with the German Wine Society (Washington DC Chapter), led by Annette Schiller, USA/ France/ Germany

Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: Baden, Alsace, Pfalz and Rheinhessen

Germany-East Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours: Wine, Art, Culture and History

Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential German Riesling and the Northernmost Pinot Noir













Tour and Tasting at Château Léoville Poyferré, Saint-Julien, 2ième Grand Cru Classé, with Anne Cuvelier - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017, France

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Picture: Tasting at Château Léoville Poyferré, Saint-Julien, 2ième Grand Cru Classé, with Anne Cuvelier and Didier Cuvelier

Château Léoville Poyferré exists since 1840, when the big Léoville property was divided into three smaller entities. The current owner, the Cuvelier family, bought Château Léoville Poyferré in 1920. At that time the Cuvelier family was already established in the wine business as important wine merchants in northern France. Since 1979, Didier Cuvelier has managed the estate.

Anne Cuvelier was our host. Didier Cuvelier joined us for the tasting. At the end we were introduced to Sarah Cuvelier, who will take over from Didier Cuvelier next year.

Picture: Arriving at Château Léoville Poyferré, with Anne Cuvelier

The Cuvelier Family in the North of France, in Bordeaux and in Argentina

Château Léoville-Poyferré is owned by the Cuvelier family. The story of the Cuvelier family begins in 1804 when Henri Cuvelier set out to share his great passion for fine wine with his friends of the grand bourgeoisie residing in the rich and dynamic towns of the North of France. To this aim, he created Maison de Négoce de Vins Henri Cuvelier in Haubourdin, a wine merchant company whose success continued to develop throughout the 19th century.

Pictures: Introduction with Anne Cuvelier

100 years later, at the beginning of the 20th century, Paul Cuvelier and his young brother Albert, decided to purchase top quality estates in the Bordeaux area. They bought Château Le Crock in 1903, then Château Camensac in 1912 (which was later sold) and finally the prestigious Château Léoville Poyferré as well as Chateau Moulin Riche in 1920. In 1947, Max Cuvelier opened a second Wine Merchant company in Bordeaux, moving nearer to the family properties.

Two of Max Cuvelier’s children have taken over the family’s activities in Bordeaux: Didier Cuvelier has been running Château Léoville Poyferré, Château Moulin-Riche and Château Le Crock since 1979 and Olivier Cuvelier has been managing the Wine Merchant company H. Cuvelier and Fils in Bordeaux since 1985.

Pictures: Touring Château Léoville Poyferré with Anne Cuvelier

The Haubourdin wine merchant company was sold in 2002. The name has remained unchanged and it continues to distribute the Cuvelier estates wines.

In 1998, the Cuvelier family started to branch out to Argentina. Bertrand Cuvelier, the father of Anne Cuvelier, accompanied Michel Rolland in his great Argentine project, which was to become the “Clos de Los Siete” group. Three years later, Jean-Guy Cuvelier decided to join his cousin Bertrand in the joint aim of building a winery and producing fine wines worthy of the family tradition in Argentina.

Pictures: Harvest was about to beginn at Château Léoville-Poyferré

Château Léoville-Poyferré

The Cuvelier family bought Château Léoville-Poyferré – one of the 3 Léoville estates that currently exist - in 1920. The 3 Léoville chateaux are the result of vast property broken up a long time ago. But up until the French Revolution, Léoville was the largest Médoc wine-growing property.

In the beginning, the Cuveliers did not operate their chateaux themselves. This changed in 1979 with the accession of Didier Cuvelier, who at 26 became the first member of his family to take charge of Léoville – Poyferré along with Moulin Riche and Le Crock. Didier Cuvelier put Léoville – Poyferré on the map of wine lovers all over the world. Didier Cuvelier trained as a chartered accountant before passing the DUAD (a university diploma in wine tasting) in 1976.

The Grand Vin is Château Léoville-Poyferré (20.000 cases). The second wine is Pavillon de Poyferré.

Château Le Crock

The first purchase made by the Cuvelier family was their property in St. Estephe, Chateau Le Crock in 1903. Today the vineyards of Château Le Crock cover a total of 32.5 hectares and touch two of the most prestigious châteaus of the appellation, Château Cos d’Estournel and Château Montrose.

In the (annulled) 2003 Classification, Château Le Crock was a Cru Bourgeois Superieur. In the new system, in 2010, Château Le Crock qualified for the Cru Bourgeois Label.

Picture: Anne Cuvelier in Virginia with Jim Law from Linden Vineyards and Christian Schiller. See: Bordeaux Meets Virginia: Visiting Jim Law and his Linden Vineyards with Anne Cuvelier from Chateau Leoville Poyferre in St. Julien, Bordeaux, USA

Picture: Annette Schiller and Anne Cuvelier at Eola in Washington DC. See: Château Léoville-Poyferré Winemaker Dinner with Anne Cuvelier at Eola in Washington DC, USA

Pictures: Armin Diel and wife (Schlossgut Diel), Didier Cuvelier (Leoville Poyferre), Annette Schiller (ombiasy PR and WineTours), Helmut Dönnhoff and daughter (Weingut Doennhoff). See: Weingut Robert Weil, Kiedrich, Rheingau, Germany: Super Sommerfest/Summer Party 2014

Château Moulin Riche

Château Moulin Riche was bought in 1920 by the Cuvelier family. Château Moulin Riche has 49 acres of vines which are planted as follows: 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Merlot, 8% Petit Verdot, 2% Cabernet Franc.

Pictures: Chatting with Cellar Master Didier Thomann of Château Léoville Poyferré

Château Léoville - Poyferré, Barton and Las-Cases

The Cuvelier family bought Château Léoville-Poyferré – one of the 3 Léoville estates that currently exist - in 1920. The 3 Léoville chateaux are the result of vast property broken up a long time ago. But up until the French Revolution, Léoville was the largest Médoc wine-growing property.

The story of the 3 Léoville estates go back to 1638. At the time, the estate was called Mont-Moytié, named after its founder, Jean de Moytié. Domaine Mont-Moytié remained in the family for almost 100 years. It is through the marriage of one of the Moytié women that the estate passed into the hands of Blaise Antoine Alexandre de Gascq, who was the seigneur of Léoville and a president of the Bordeaux parliament.

The groundwork for the split was laid in 1769, when Blaise Antoine Alexandre de Gascq died without an obvious heir. As a consequence the Léoville estate was inherited by four family members. One of them was the Marquis de Las-Cases-Beauvoir. One quarter was sold off by the four heirs. A number of years later, in 1826, this part of Léoville estate was purchased by Hugh Barton and became Château Léoville Barton.

The other three quarters remained in the family. This was the state of affairs when the Marquis was succeeded in 1815 by his son, Pierre-Jean and his daughter, Jeanne. Pierre-Jean inherited what is now Château Léoville Las Cases, whilst the portion that came to Jeanne was passed onto her daughter, who married Baron Jean-Marie de Poyferré; this is the part that is today Château Léoville-Poyferré.

Pictures: Touring Château Léoville Poyferré

Although the estate bears the name of the Poyferré family to this day, it was not in their ownership for a long time. But it was under the ownership of the Poyferré family when the estate was classified as a deuxième cru in 1855 (as were the Barton and Las-Cases estates).

In 1865 Château Léoville-Poyferré was purchased by Baron d'Erlanger and Armand Lalande, bankers and local courtiers. The Lalande family, and later through marriage also the Lawton family, were in charge of Château Léoville-Poyferré until after World War I had passed. The Cuvelier family bought Château Léoville-Poyferré in 1920.

While the vineyards were separated, the buildings remained connected, just as they are today.

For more information, Jeff Leve from The Wine Cellar Insider has an excellent write-up about Château Léoville-Poyferré on his website.

Tasting

Following the tour, we tasted a series of wines. I have included in parenthesis the current wine searcher average prices in US$ per bottle.

Pictures: Tasting with Anne Cuvelier and Didier Cuvelier

The Wines

Pictures: The Wines

2013 Pavillon de Léoville Poyferré (US$36)

A fantastic wine from parcels of younger vines at Château Léoville Poyferré. It opens with expressive aromas of blackberry and dark cherry followed by spices, violets, graphite and hints of earthiness. The palate is plush with even more dark fruits, spices and woody notes. The finish is long and polished.

2011 Château Moulin Riche (US$68)

This blend of 68% Cabernet Sauvignon, 21% Merlot and 11% Petit Verdot, with Michel Rolland as the consultant, displays a deep ruby/purple color and possesses straightforward notes of black and red currants intermixed with cedar wood, roasted herbs and underbrush. It is a medium-bodied, silky-textured wine to drink over the next 10-15 years. Score: 87 Robert Parker, robertparker.com Maturity: 2013-2028 Date: 01 February 2013

2012 Château Léoville Poyferré (US$81)

Owned by the Cuvelier family since 1920, this property over the last 20 years has made some great wines in the Médoc. The 2012, a blend of 61% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot, 8% Petit Verdot and 4% Cabernet Franc, is opaque purple, thick-looking, and from bottle much more impressive than it was from barrel. This very extracted, rich, full-bodied, masculine Léoville Poyferré needs a good 5-8 years of bottle age and should evolve well for at least 20-25 years. Loads of blackberry and cassis, crushed rock and graphite notes are present in this medium to full-bodied, impressively concentrated and pure wine. Forget it for a while, as this is one of the bigger, richer Médocs. Drink: 2020 - 2045. Score: 92+ Robert Parker, Wine Advocate (218), April 2015

2005 Château Léoville Poyferré (US$138)

Léoville Poyferré’s dense ruby/purple 2005 is soft, round and juicy, with lots of blackcurrant fruit, plum and Asian spice. It is medium to full-bodied and, along with Léoville Las Cases and Saint-Pierre, probably one of the best St.-Juliens I tasted in this retrospective. It is surprisingly supple and accessible. Drink it over the next 15 or so years. Drink 2015-2030. Score: 93 Robert Parker, Wine Advocate (219), June 2015

Previous Tour - Michel Rolland

This time, we did not bump into Michel Rolland, as we did during the previous tour. Michel Rolland consults with Château Léoville-Poyferré.

Pictures: Michel Rolland Greets us

Being Introduced to the New Managing Director

Before leaving, Anne Cuvelier introduced us to her sister Sarah Cuvelier, who has taken over from Didier Cuvelier earlier this year as Managing Director of  Château Léoville-Poyferré.
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Pictures: With Sarah Cuvelier, new Managing Director of Château Léoville-Poyferré

Bye-bye

Thanks Anne for a very exciting tour and tasting.

Pictures: Bye-bye

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Tasting at Sekthaus Raumland in Flörsheim-Dalsheim, Rheinhessen, with Heide-Rose and Volker Raumland - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

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Pictures: Tasting at Sekthaus Raumland with Heide-Rose and Volker Raumland

With the visit of Sekthaus Raumland in Flörsheim-Dalsheim, Rheinhessen, we honored the Germans' affinity with the bubbly stuff. Did you know that the Germans are world champions in sparkling wine consumption? And that “Rotkäppchen” in Freyburg, in the Saale-Unstrut region is the world’s second largest sparkling wine producer after Freixenet? And that there are many top rated Sekt producers in Germany?

Our visit took us to one of the top notch Sekt (the German word for sparkling wine) producers. According to several life style and wine magazines Sekthaus Raumland is the best of the best.

Heide-Rose and Volker Raumland were our hosts.

Pictures: At Sekthaus Raumland

Sekthaus Raumland

Sekthaus Raumland was founded in 1984 by Volker and Heide-Rose Raumland, after Volker Raumland had finished his oenologie studies at the University of Geisenheim. Initially, Sekthaus Raumland was mostly making Sekt for other German wineries, but right from the beginning only in the méthode traditionnelle.

Picture: Welcome

The top product of the Raumland portfolio is called Triumvirat. It is a cuvée from the single vineyard Dalsheimer Bürgel, which extends just west of the center of Dalsheim. It is made up of Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay.

Heide-Rose Raumland is from Weingut Wöhrwag in Stuttgart. Her brother Hans-Peter studied togather Volker Raumland in Geisenheim. They have 2 daughters, Marie-Luise and Katharina.

Picture: Heide-Rose and Volker Raumland with their 2 Daughters Marie-Luise and Katharina

Vineyards

Today Sekthaus Raumlan has 10 hectares of vineyards in the Flörsheim-Dalsheim area and produces Sekt in the méthode traditionnelle on par with the quality of the best Champagnes. His philosophy: no mass production, top quality, “small but beautiful”, first class base wines, at least 36 months on the lease. Since 2002 his wine and Sekt estate is certified “AB” for biological agriculture.

Raumland grows his fruit in three different vineyards:

(1) Dalsheim, Rheinhessen with 4.1 ha which is also home base for the estate. These vineyards are planted to Riesling, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, Pinot Blanc and Chardonnay;

(2) Hohen-Sülzen, Rheinhessen with 1.5 ha planted 100% to Pinot Noir and

(3) Bockenheim, Pfalz with 4.0 ha located 5km to the south of Dalsheim which is also Volker’s hometown. Riesling from these vineyards is used for Sekt whereas miscellaneous red wine varieties are vinified as still wine.

How Volker Raumland Makes his Sekts

(1) Very careful and painstaking hand selection. The grapes are placed in small 15 kg boxes to assure that none of the fruit is scarred or damaged. Grapes are picked at 75 to 80 Oechlse, the optimum must weight for sparkling wine.

(2) Whole cluster pressing to preserve fruit aromas, no maceration, no mashing and no pumping of the juice.

(3) The “Champagne press program” with a duration of four hours, involves careful segmentation of the juice. The separation involves the first run (5%), the middle run or “heart” (50%) and the last run or taille (10%). To control phenolics the press is stopped after the last run. These figures coincide with champagne where 67% of the juice is used. First run and last run juices are used for the basic Sekts such as Cuvée Marie - Luise and Cuvée Katharina (named after the Raumland’s daughters) as are lower quality portions of the middle run. The better part of the middle run is used for the Prestige varietal Cuvées and the very best for the Grand Cuvee Triumvirat.

(4) The exception to the above is using the Saignée process by bleeding off prefermentation juice to make the Rose Prestige Cuvee (10% Pinot Noir) gathering juice for the Rose Prestige Cuvee (100% Pinot Noir).

(5) The time laps between harvest and the start of fermentation is a maximum of three days. Because of the earlier harvest for champagne grapes, fermentation starts already in September and often goes past November. The Pinot varietals and Chardonnay also go through a malolactic fermentation which lasts anywhere from two to six weeks depending on the PH of the wine ( high PH- fast malolactic, low PH- slow malolactic).

(6) After completion of the fermentation the wine is left on the fine yeast for maximum benefit. The wines are filtered and cold stabilized before Tirage. Tirage involves adding .24 gm/l of sugar and cultured Champagne yeast (sourced from Epernay in Champagne) and capping the bottles with a crown cork. This then starts yet another fermentation capturing CO2 which develops a pressure of six bars in the bottle. They are stored horizontally for maximum yeast contact for a minimum of 12 months to 12 years, depending on the quality of the Sekt.

(7) Four weeks before the Sekt is finished the bottles are hand riddled. After disgorgement a 1.0% dosage of a high quality wine is added to the prestige cuvees and 1/2% dosage to the Tête de Cuvee Triumvirat. The best quality dosage goes to the highest quality Sekt.

(8) The Sekts are stored in a four stories deep cellar to achieve optimum ripeness and “pin point” mousse. The Sekts are continuously monitored and tasted to assure optimum quality. All Sekts, including older vintages are freshly disgorged before they leave the estate.

Pictures: Heide-Rose and Volker Raumland

Sekt in Germany

Germany is one of the largest sparkling wine markets in the world, which is not well know around the world. Germans drink lot of sparkling wines, although in general less quality-conscious than the French. One out of four bottles of sparkling wine is consumed in Germany, roughly 500 million bottles. Sekt is made in all German wine regions, both in the méthode traditionnelle and charmat method. There are three groups of Sekt makers: (i) large and (ii) smaller Sekt houses, who only make Sekt and (iii) winemakers, who make predominantly wine, but complement their wine selection by a few Sekts. The Sekts produced by large Sekt estates tend to be in the demy-sweet and sweet range, while the Sekts of smaller estates and the wine makers are mostly in the brut and extra brut range.

There is a dozen or so large Sekt houses. Most of these large Sekt houses were established in the 1800s. At that time, there was only one method known to produce Sekt, the méthode traditionnelle. But in contrast to the champagne houses, the large Sekt houses have all moved to the charmat method as main method of the second fermentation after World War II. Like the champagne houses, Sekt houses do not own vineyards, but purchase the base wine from winemakers.

The smaller Sekt houses, like the large Sekt houses, do not own vineyards, but also buy the base wine from winemakers. They also tend to have a long history and often links to the champagne region, beautiful facilities and old cellars for the second fermentation and storage. The big difference is that they typically have not gone the route of tank fermentation but continue to ferment in the méthode traditionnelle.

Increasingly, there is a number of top quality winemakers, who, in addition, to their still wines, have started to include Sekts in their portfolio. These Sekts are typically vintage Sekts, from a specified vineyard, made of specific grapes, often Riesling, in the méthode champenoise and with little or not dosage (brut or extra but). While the first fermentation typically takes place at the winery, the second fermentation is often not in the cellar of the winemaker but in the cellar of a Sekt house that bottle-ferments for other wineries.

Raumland belongs to the third group but is kind of unique in Germany. Raumland makes a bit of still wine but is clearly focusing on his world class Sekts. The Raumland Sekts are like Champagnes, without copying them, feels the Eichelmann 2010.

Pictures: Heide-Rose Raumland

Raumland in the US: Rudi Wiest Selections

In the US, Raumland is available through Rudi Wiest Selections.

Rudi Wiest: Simply the finest sparkling wine producer in Germany. Founded in 1990 by Volker Raumland whose heart and soul is invested in making great Sekt. Every year, year in year out Volker produces 3 to 5 of the top 10 sparkling wines in Germany according to the Gault-Millau/German Wine Guide. His basic cuvees carry the names of his daughters – Cuvee Marie-Louise (100% Pinot Noir) – benchmark of refinement and purity, Cuvee Katherina Blanc de Noir (Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier) more power, more structure, dense and creamy with a touch of oak. The above Sekts rival and easily surpass NV Champagnes and offer better pricing. His top selections are sensational sparkling wines that keep pace with the best Tête de Cuvees in Champagne. The estate uses organic vineyard practices. Production is 7,000 cases annually.

Pictures: Tasting at Sekthaus Raumland with Heide-Rose and Volker Raumland

Jamie Goode and Treve Ring Explore Sekt, Germany's Sparkling Wine - Raumland

Jamie Goode and Treve Ring: Raumland focuses solely on traditional method sparkling wine. It seems that the best Sekt producers are the ones who just do fizz, because it requires a particular way of thinking.

Whereas some Sekt producers are looking to make fruity sparkling wines that express that side of Riesling, Raumland is looking to make something more complex, and more akin to vintage Champagne. He has planted mainly Pinot Noir, along with Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier, though also works with Riesling and Pinot Blanc. ‘I hate primary fruit in sparkling,’ says Raumland, ‘and I love the toast and bread notes from long ageing on the lees.’ His wines have a minimum 3 years on the lees for first tier. Prestige is minimum 6 years on the lees, while his vintage level is 10 years on the lees or more. He adds, ‘We are a young company but we are still very traditional.’ Raumland is critically considered to be one of the top quality Sekt producers in Germany.

What we Tasted


Tradition

NV Raumland Riesling Brut
NV Raumland Cuvée Marie-Louise Brut

Wine Curmudgeon (Posted 14 Sep 2015): German sparkling wine made in the traditional Champagne style? How much wine geekier does it get? Not much, but the Raumland Marie-Luise is well worth the trouble to find and the price you will pay.

The amazing thing about the Raumland Marie-Luise ($40, sample, 12%) is not that it’s well made, but that it’s such a value, even at $40. I’ve tasted Champagne (before the boycott) at that price and even $20 more that wasn’t as pleasurable to drink — mass market plonk at high-end prices. The Raumland is made with pinot noir, astonishing in itself given the rarity and inconsistency of German pinot, but even more so given the wine’s subtlety and style. This is not an oaky, yeasty sparkling bomb, but a wine with fine, tight bubbles, hints of berry fruit, an almost spice-like aroma, and bone dry.

Highly recommended, though it may be difficult to find. If you can, serve it on its own (chilled, of course) or with seafood and chicken. We had it with a shrimp boil during the infamous wine samples dinner, and the Raumland was gone in minutes. This is also a fine gift for any open-minded sparkling wine drinker.

NV Raumland Cuvée Katharina Brut

Jamie Goode: Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier with some oak in the base wine fermentation. Very pure, direct nose. Lovely pear and apple fruit character here with a touch of toastiness. Some warm herbal notes. Ripe and fruity with a bit of toasty development. Nice fruit expression.

Treve Ring: Salty, with fine earth, savoury biscuit and cherry notes hallmarking this Pinot Noir/Pinot Meunier blend. Cherry and pear dominate, and a fine line of acid holds the whole taught to the toasty finish. Lovely balance. Disgorged march 2016. 89/100

Prestige

2012 Raumland Rosé Prestige Brut
2010 Raumland Pinot Prestige Brut
2008 Raumland Riesling Prestige Brut

Jamie Goode: The malolactic stopped half-way, so we have 10.2 g of acid and 6 g of residual sugar here. Single vineyard in Pfalz. Limestone soils. Linear, pure and tight with astonishing acidity. Subtle waxy hints indicate the age of the wine, with a hint of cheese and toast, but the driving force is piercing lemony fruit. Tangy and bright with some ripe apple notes, too. So distinctive. 91/100

2009 Raumland Blanc de Blanc Prestige Brut
2011 Raumland Chardonnay Prestige Brut


2009 Raumland IX Triumvirat - Grande Cuvée Brut

Jamie Goode: Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier, first made in 2001. Less than 3 g/l sugar and acidity around 7. 6 years on lees, 6 months on cork. Some of the wine is fermented in barrels, mostly barriques, but also some 350 litre barrels. Lively, powerful, pithy and a bit waxy with very bold citrus and pear notes, as well as honey and almond notes. Very linear with good acidity. Has real precision and depth with some red cherry and pear on the finish. 91/100

Treve Ring: The Triumvirat Grand Cuvee is a brut blend of pinot noir, chardonnay and pinot meunier, and a premium bottling from Raumland. Light smoke, light biscuit and fennel is broken by crunchy acidity and large flake sea salt. The palate leads with lox and toasty spice before introducing light cherry and red pear, finishing with a raspy, almost assertive acidity. Fermented in barriques and barrels before more than 7 years on the lees, this could pass for a decent supermarket-bottled Champagne in a blind tasting. 91/100

Bye-bye

Thank you very much Heide-Rose and Volker Raumland for a most enjoyable tasting of your world class sparklers.

Pictures: Annette Schiller with Heide-Rose and Volker Raumland

schiller-wine: All Postings (Published and Forthcoming): Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: Baden, Alsace, Pfalz and Rheinhessen

Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: Baden, Alsace, Pfalz and Rheinhessen

Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour (and Lunch) with Robert Schätzle, Owner/ Winemaker, Weingut Schloss Neuweier in Baden - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

La Cucina della Passione and Weingut Schloss Neuweier Wines: Wine Pairing Lunch at Röttele’s Restaurant (1 Star Michelin) at Schloss Neuweier, with Owner and Winemaker Robert Schätzle, Weingut Schloss Neuweier - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

The Music of the A Cappella Ensemble "Männer und Tenöre" and the Wines of Weingut Aufricht, Lake Constance, Baden, with Manfred Aufricht - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

The Evolving Structure of the Wine Industry in Germany– The Case of the Lake Constance Region

Schloss Salem at Lake Constance in Germany: A Museum, a School and a Wine Estate

Visit of Schloss Salem, Kirche Birnau and Weingut Markgraf von Baden - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

The Wines of the Markgräflerland (Baden): Tasting and Cellar Tour at Weingut Löffler - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Tasting and Cellar Tour at Weingut Stigler, Baden, with Andreas, Regina and Max Stigler - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Dinner at Restaurant Schwarzer Adler, 1 Star Michelin, Oberbergen, Kaiserstuhl, Baden - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars and Wine Taverns in Freiburg, Baden, Germany

The World Class Wines of Alsace

In the world class white wine region Alsace

Tasting at Domaine Marcel Deiss in Bergheim, Alsace - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Lunch in Alsace: Wistube du Sommelier in Bergheim and L’Epicurien in Colmar - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Tasting at Domaine Dirler-Cadé with Jean Pierre Dirler and Ludevine Dirler-Cadé - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Tour and Tasting at Domaines Schlumberger in Guebwiller, Alsace - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Tour and Tasting at Hugel in Riquewhir, Alsace, with Jean Frédéric Hugel - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Dinner at the 1 Michelin Star Restaurant L’Achémille in Kaysersberg, with Owner/ Chef Jérome Jaegle - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Wine Lunch at Weingut Jülg with Johannes Jülg– Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Tasting at Maison Jülg in Seebach, Alsace, with Peter Jülg - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Schiller's Favorite (Wine-) Restaurants in Deidesheim in the Pfalz, Germany

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz in Siebeldingen, Pfalz, with Hansjörg and Valentin Rebholz and Sabine Wagner - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Münzberg/ Gunter Kessler in Landau-Godramstein, Pfalz, with Owner/ Winemaker Gunter Kessler - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Tasting and Cellar Tour at Weingut Rings in Freinsheim, Pfalz, with Andreas Rings - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Tasting at Weingut Krebs in Freinsheim, Pfalz, with Jürgen Krebs and Ann-Kathrin Müller - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Tasting at Sekthaus Raumland in Flörsheim-Dalsheim, Rheinhessen, with Heide-Rose and Volker Raumland

Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Philipp Wittmann and Eva Clüsserath-Wittmann at Weingut Wittmann in Westhofen – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2014)

Cellar Tourvisit and Tasting at Weingut Gröbe in Westhofen, Rheinhessen, with Fritz Gröbe

Cellar Tour and Wine Pairing Lunch at Weingut Louis Guntrum in Nierstein, Rheinhessen, with Konstantin and Stephanie Guntrum





The German Wine Society (Washington DC Chapter) Presented: 2016 German Vintage Tasting with Phil Bernstein of MacArthur Beverages, Washington DC, USA

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Picture: The German Wine Society (Washington DC Chapter) Presented: Vintage 2016 Tasting with Phil Bernstein

The annual “New German Vintage Tasting" of the German Wine Society (Washington DC Chapter) around February/March/April, led by Phil Bernstein, is always a highlight for the German wine aficionados in the Washington DC area. Phil Bernstein is very entertaining and knowledgeable about German wine. He is in charge of German wines at MacArthur Beverages, one of the best German wine retailers in the country.

This year again, we had a full house, with 71 people having signed up and paid US45/ US$55 (members/ non-members) for the tasting. Thank you very much Phil for a great event.

Pictures: The German Wine Society (Washington DC Chapter) Presented: Vintage 2016 Tasting with Phil Bernstein

Invitation

Phil Bernstein, German wine buyer, MacArthur Beverages: I'd like to invite you to attend my yearly new vintage tasting with the German Wine Society. We've selected some of the best wines of the vintage and for those of you that haven't attended; this is always a fun event. We keep it light and have lots of great back and forth banter. The wines are the stars of the show, and if you're not too familiar with German wine, this will be a great learning opportunity. If you haven't already heard, 2016 is a fantastic vintage for the great Rieslings of Germany-you do not want to miss this! -Phil Bernstein, German wine buyer, MacArthur Beverages

Picture: Invitation

German Wine Society: Dear German Wine Society Members and Guests, Every year we host a tasting to try wines from the new vintage, with a focus on Riesling. Our host is Phil Bernstein of MacArthur Beverages, one of the leading retailers of German Riesling in the country. The new vintage is 2016, which David Schildknecht found “deliciously drinkable” and Terry Theise describes as “nearly perfect”, providing “repeated inputs of joy, sheer joy, and grinning, giddy, animal joy.” Please join us as we try the wines and write our own reviews.

Sekt, Grosses Gewächs (GG), Kabinett, Spätlese and Auslese

MacArthur's German wine portfolio represents very well the traditional, classic German wine selection in the US market: Heavy on wines from the Mosel region, heavy on Riesling and heavy on wines with residual sweetness. Accordingly, except for the Sekt, all the wines we tasted were Rieslings, 6 of the 12 wines were from the Mosel region. 8 fruity-sweet Kabinett, Spätlese and Auslese wines were at the center of the tasting. Preceeding the Kabinett, Spätlese and Auslese flights, Phil poured a Sekt and a Grosses Gewächs (GG) flight. The 2 GGs were by far the most expensive wines of the tasting.

Pictures: The German Wine Society (Washington DC Chapter) Presented: Vintage 2016 Tasting with Phil Bernstein

As in previous years, Phil Bernstein did not present any red wines. Indeed, the MacArthur portfolio includes only a negligible number of red wines. Yet, about 1/3 of the Germany’s wine output is red wine. Germany has become one of the leading Pinot Noir producers in the world. At a recent Decanter (the British wine journal) tasting of Pinot Noirs around the world excluding Burgundy, a German Pinot Noir from the Ahr region (Weingut Jean Stodden) was selected as the best wine. But the US market is very slow in discovering what Germany now has to offer in terms of premium and ultra-premium red wines. German red wines are difficult to find in the US. Hopefully, this will change.

As in previous years, Phil Bernstein showed only Rieslings. Yet, Riesling accounts for only 1/3 of the German white wine production. 2/3 is accounted for by other grape varieties. Among the non-Riesling grape varieties, Grauburgunder (Pinot Gris) and Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc) are increasingly being planted. Why bother with these other grape varieties, many German wine lovers in the US say. But Germany has become the #1 Pinot Blanc producer in the world and the #2 Pinot Gris producer in the world (as well as the #3 Pinot Noir producer in the world).

Pictures: German Wine Society (Washington DC Chapter) President Carl Willner and David Wendler, Event Organizer

Stephen Bitterolf contra Phil Bernstein, New York contra Washington DC, and German Wines in the 21 Century

A few weeks ago, at Stephen Bitterolf's Rieslingfeier Vintage 2016 Grand Tasting in New York, the 44 wines poured were quite different from the wines Phil Bernstein poured: The large majority were dry wines (27 wines). Only 17 wines were fruity-sweet Kabinett and Spätlese wines. 6 of the 13 winemakers present poured only dry wines. See: Rieslingfeier 2018 in New York City: Gränd Tasting and Gala Dinner

World class Mosel producer Constantin Richter says: "NYC is not DC. As Germany is a predominantly dry country with a few emerging sweet spots, the US remains a predominantly sweet country with a few emerging dry spots (mainly the New York, Chicago and San Francisco areas)".

A few months ago, at the Annual Meeting of the American Wine Society, Annette Schiller led a tasting seminar that she called "German Wines in the 21st Century" (See: German Wines in the 21st Century - A Tasting Seminar at the 2017 American Wine Society National Conference in the Pocono Mountains of Pennsylvania, led by Annette Schiller (ombiasyPR & WineTours)). At this tasting, she poured 4 German wines: 2 red wines and 4 white wines, all dry and only one a Riesling.

Pictures: Phil Bernstein

ombiasy WineTours

Most of the winemakers presented by Phil Bernstein I know personally and have visited their wineries on an ombiasy Germany wine tour. Annette Schiller offers 3 wine tours to Germany: Germany-North, Germany-East and Germany-South. See:

Upcoming Tours/ Wine Dinners/ Tastings - Annette and Christian Schiller/ ombiasyPR & WineTours/ schiller-wine, Germany, France, USA (March 1, 2018)

Ombiasy Wine Tours 2018: 3 x France and 3 x Germany - Ombiasy Newsletter December 2017

Picture: Annette Schiller, Phil Bernstein and Christian Schiller. See: The Annual “New German Vintage” Tasting of the German Wine Society (Washington DC Chapter) led by Phil Bernstein - 2012 Vintage, Germany/USA

Tasting

Most of the wines were available at the tasting for a special price, which I put in parentheses.

Pictures: Tasting

Vintage 2016 in Germany (Terry Theise)

Terry Theise (See: Therry Theise’s Best German Wines and Winemakers– Vintage 2016): ... 2016 does not appear to have a dark side. At least where I tasted, it is almost never not delicious, almost never ungainly, unbalanced or unappealing. I can hardly remember a more adorable vintage. I don’t know where I’d place it on some grid of profundity or Solemn Importance. Neither do I care. I was too blasted by repeated inputs of joy, sheer joy, grinning, giddy, animal joy. But, not merely animal. Because this vintage can address the most humane, civilized, decent and grateful parts of us. It never clamors or fusses for our attention. It never preens or puts on some gaudy show. It doesn’t get its freak on because it doesn’t seem to have a freak at all. It is, instead, calmly and serenely delicious. Actually, fucking delicious. It is a medium-weight vintage and its weight is elegantly and gracefully dispersed. It is graceful overall, and also lithe, limber and lissome. It is strong when it needs to be, but it measures its strength judiciously and with restraint. It shows every aspect of superb German Riesling, but doesn’t emphasize any at the expense of the others....

Starter: Sekt - Messmer Rosé Brut

2010 Messmer Spätburgunder Sekt Rosé Brut (US$42)

Weingut Herbert Messmer
Pfalz
28 hectares
40% Riesling, 20% Spätburgunder, 10% Pinot Blanc, 10% Pinot Gris
All dry
Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2018: 3/5 grapes
VDP


Sekt in Germany: Germany is one of the largest sparkling wine markets in the world. One out of four bottles of sparkling wine is consumed in Germany. Sparkling wine produced in Germany is called Sekt.

Sekt is made in all German wine regions, both in the méthode traditionnelle and charmat method. There are three groups of Sekt makers: (i) large and (ii) smaller Sekt Houses that only make Sekt and (iii) wine makers, who make predominantly wine, but complement their wine selection by a few Sekts. The Sekts produced by large Sekt Houses tend to be in the demy-sweet and sweet range, while the Sekts of smaller estates and the wine makers are mostly in the brut and extra brut range.

See also: German Wine Basics: Sekt

Weingut Messmer was founded in 1960 when Herbert Messmer purchased the historical estate and took over the vineyards and winery. In 1984, the winery was taken over by son Gregor Messmer. Weingut Messmer is nestled in the forested slopes of the Haardt Mountains in the southern Pfalz. Vineyard area: 25 hectares. Annual production: 26,700 cases.

Picture: Martin Messmer, Wei ngut Herbert Messmer,in Berlin. See: Chinese Food and German Wine at the Hot Spot in Berlin: 5 VDP Winemakers Pour their Wines

Terry Theise: Without question the most wacked-out gorgeous weirdo-wine in this offering. The base wine ferments in used barrique and ages six months before tirage. It spends three-plus years on the lees and emerges as a serious wine that tastes for all the world like a Vilmart Cuvée Rubis, without quite the elegance and polish of the Champagne. Hibiscus and rhubarb jelly, echoes of wood, a finishing kiss of rosewater. Defeat even the most cocky blind taster! Amaze your somm pals! Put something on your list that no one else has, or even dreamed of! And finally, serve a three-eyed alien wine that’s not only without flaws: it also tastes good! As the wine is disgorged as-needed every few months, this final contingent has had really long lees time— four-plus years. We bought all the rest of it; the wine is indelible and amazing.

Flight #1: Two of the vintage’s best dry wines - Schäfer Fröhlich Felseneck Grosses Gewächs (GG) and Rebholz Kastanienbusch Grosses Gewächs (GG)


Like last year, a Grosses Gewächs (GG) flight figured prominently in Phil Bernstein’s tasting. GGs is the new category of ultra-premium wines dry wines of VDP producers, the association of about 200 elite wine producers in Germany.

What is a GG? In a nutshell, the VDP is moving to a classification system that resembles very much the classification system in the Bourgogne. The classification of the VDP puts the terroir principle at the center of its classification approach. With the latest modifications of 2012, the absolutely finest vineyards are called Grosse Lage and dry wines from these super top vineyards are called Grosses Gewächs. Grosses Gewächs wines are the finest dry wines from Germany’s finest vineyards.

To qualify for the Grosses Gewächs label, a number of criteria need to be respected. (i) The fruit has to come from a Grosse Lage vineyard. (ii) At harvest, the grapes need to be at least at Spätlese level in terms of the sugar content. (iii) Only certain – typical - grape varieties are allowed, including Riesling and Spätburgunder. (iv) Further restrictions apply: there are yield restrictions; only hand picking of grapes is permitted and harvest must be late in the autumn.

2016 Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz, Kastanienbusch, Riesling, trocken, GG (US$97)


Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz

Pfalz
23 hectares
40% Riesling, 20% Spätburgunder, 15% Pinot Blanc
All dry
Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2018: 5/5 grapes (18 producers)
VDP

Picture: The Table of Hannsjörg Rebholz, Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz, Pfalz, at the Gala Dinner of the Rieslingfeier 2016 in New York City, with Annette Schiller, David Schildknecht and Hannsjörg Rebholz. See: A German Riesling Feast in New York City: Rieslingfeier 2016, USA

Picture: Annette and Christian Schiller with Hansjörg and Birgit Rebholz at Prowein 2015 in Düsseldorf

Pictures: Tasting at Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz in Siebeldingen, Pfalz, with Hansjörg Rebholz. See: Tasting at Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz in Siebeldingen, Pfalz – Germany-South by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

2016 Weingut Schäfer Fröhlich, Felseneck, Riesling, trocken, GG (US$80)


Weingut Schäfer-Fröhlich
Nahe
21 hectares
85% Riesling
Both dry and sweet-style wines
Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2018: 5/5 grapes (18 producers)
VDP

Picture: Christian Schiller and Tim Fröhlich in Wiesbaden

Pictures: Tasting at Weingut Schäfer-Fröhlich in Bockenau, Nahe - Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Flight #2: Two of Germany’s top young guns - Carl Loewen Maximiner Herrenberg Kabinett and Dönnhoff Kreuznacher Krotenpfuhl Kabinett


2016 Weingut Carl Loewen Longuicher Maximiner Herrenberg Kabinett (US$22)

Weingut Carl Loewen
Mosel
15 hectares
96% Riesling
Mainly sweet-style wines
Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2018: 3/5 grapes


Terry Theise: Ungrafted, planted 1903—terribly young, I know—and it sits upslope from the Maximiner Herrenberg, whence the 1896 bottlings arise. It reminds me of a Merkelbach wine only richer, or like Christoffel but not so glossy, not so formed. Ginger and quince, an endless call-and-response among Spring flowers, wild herbs, licorice and key lime. I know you won’t mind my pointing out that if you were offered a wine from a great vineyard from ungrafted 113-year old vines, and that wine came from France, Italy or Spain, you would pay a fuckload more money for it. You don’t mind if I say that, do you? 

2016 Weingut Dönnhoff Kreuznacher Krotenpfuhl Kabinett (US$25)


Weingut Dönnhoff
Nahe
28 hectares
80% Riesling, 20% Pinot Blanc and Gris
Both dry and sweet-style wines
Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2018: 5/5 grapes (18 producers)
VDP

Picture: Christian Schiller with Helmut Dönnhoff, Weingut Hermann Dönnhoff

Picture: Annette Schiller, Helmut Dönnhoff and daughter Christina Dönnhoff (Weingut Dönnhoff) and Didier Cuevlier (Chateau Leoville Poyferre) at Weingut Dr. Robert Weil

Pictures: An Afternoon with Riesling Star Winemaker Helmut Doennhoff at Weingut Doennhoff in Oberhausen in the Nahe Valley, Germany

Flight #3: Two of the vintage’s best Kabinetts - AJ Adam Hofberg Kabinett and Vollenweider Wolfer Goldgrube Kabinett


2016 Weingut AJ Adam Dhron Hofberg Kabinett (US$30)


Weingut AJ Adam
Mosel
5 hectares
100% Riesling
Both dry and sweet-style wines
Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2018: 3/5 grapes 

2016 Weingut Vollenweider Wolfer Goldgrube Kabinett (US25)


Weingut Vollenweider
Mosel
5 hectares
100% Riesling
Both dry and sweet-style wines
Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2018: 4/5 grapes 

Flight #4: JJ Prum ‘nuff said! - JJ Prüm Graacher Himmelreich Kabinett and JJ Prüm Graacher Himmelreich Spätlese


2016 Weingut JJ Prüm Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett (US$33)
2016 Weingut JJ Prüm Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spätlese (US$40)

Weingut JJ Prüm
Mosel
20 hectares
100% Riesling
Only sweet-style wines
Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2018: 5/5 grapes (18 producers)
VDP

Justerini and Brooks (UK): Manfred Prüm runs one of the Mosel’s, if not the whole of Germany’s, most revered and respected Estates. It is also amongst the most enigmatic as no-one has yet made it down to his mysterious cellars. Manfred is certainly one of the world’s more eccentric wine producers and a tasting in his drawing room with him is always enjoyable and entertaining. In the Sonnenuhr of Wehlen he owns a portion of one of the Mittel Mosel’s top vineyards. Its steep south-facing dark slate slopes tend to result in deeply flavoured, mineral yet rich and smoky wines. In addition, he manipulates some plots in the next door Himmelreich of Graacher which produces engaging wines with fresh acidities that are slightly softer and earlier maturing. These are unashamedly classic, exciting and long-lived wines produced predominantly in stainless tanks to avoid the addition of too much sulphur, though a small proportion of wooden casks are retained, however, depending on the vintage. They are bottled later than most Mosel and often take a few years in bottle before showing the true character, but patience will be rewarded!

Pictures: Tasting at the Legendary Weingut J.J. Prüm with Amei Prüm– Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016

Picture: Christian Schiller with Katharina Pruem at Wegmans in Virginia. See: JJ Pruem Goes Supermarket: Meeting Katharina Pruem and Tasting the Incredible JJ Pruem Wines at Wegmans

Picture: Annette Schiller with Manfred Pruem, Weingut JJ Pruem, at Weingut Robert Weil in Kiedrich

Flight #5: Super Spatlese - Schäfer Fröhlich Bockenauer Felseneck Spätlese GK and Keller Abtserde Spätlese


2016 Weingut Schäfer Fröhlich Bockenauer Felseneck Spätlese GK (US$50)


Weingut Schäfer-Fröhlich
Nahe
21 hectares
85% Riesling
Both dry and sweet-style wines
Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2018: 5/5 grapes (18 producers)
VDP

2016 Weingut Keller Abtserde Spätlese


Weingut Keller
Rheinhessen
16 hectares
60% Riesling, 30% Pinot Noir, Blanc and Gris
Riesling G-Max is the most expensive dry white wine in Germany
Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2018: 5/5 grapes (18 producers)
VDP

Picture: Annette Schiller and Klaus Peter Keller, Weingut Keller. See: VDP.Rheinhessen Invited to a Gala Dinner: The World Class Wines of the VDP.Rheinhessen Winemakers and the World Class Food of Philipp Stein (1 Star Michelin, Favorite), with Klaus Peter Keller, Philipp Wittmann, H.O.Spanier, Caroline Gillot-Spanier and Other Rheinhessen Stars

Picture: Annette Schiller,Julia and Klaus Peter Keller at the 2015 Rieslingfeier in New York, see: A German Riesling Feast in New York City: Rieslingfeier 2015, USA

Flight #6: Yet another Selbach masterpiece - Selbach Oster Schlossberg Riesling Schmitt

2016 Weingut Selbach Oster Schlossberg Riesling Schmitt (US$53)


Weingut Selbach Oster
Mosel
22 hectares
97% Riesling
Mainly sweet-style wines
Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2018: 4/5 grapes

Picture: Wine Tasting at Weingut Selbach-Oster in Zeltingen, Mosel, with Johannes Selbach. See: Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting at Weingut Selbach-Oster in Zeltingen, Mosel, with Johannes Selbach – Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2014)

Picture: Johannes and Barbara Selbach, Weingut Selbach Oster, and Annette Schiller, ombiasy WineTours, in New York at the 2015 Rieslingfeier.

Picture: Johannes Selbach, Weingut Selbach Oster, and Riesling Guru Paul Grieco in New York City at the 2013 Riesling and Co Tasting. See: Schiller’s Favorites at the 2013 Riesling and Co Tasting in New York City, USA

Pictures: Annette Schiller and Johannes Selbach in New York. See: Rieslingfeier 2018 in New York City: Gränd Tasting and Gala Dinner

Previous Years'“New German Vintage” Tastings of the German Wine Society (Washington DC Chapter)

For previous years, see:

The German Wine Society (Washington DC Chapter) Presented: 2015 German Vintage Tasting with Phil Bernstein, USA

Phil Bernstein of MacArthur Beverages Presents the new Vintage (2014) to the German Wine Society (Washington DC Chapter), USA/ Germany

German Riesling - What the American Market Wants: Vintage 2013 Tasting with German Wine Expert Phil Bernstein, MacArthur Beverages, Washington DC

The Annual “New German Vintage” Tasting of the German Wine Society (Washington DC Chapter) led by Phil Bernstein - 2012 Vintage, Germany/USA

German Wine: Tasting with Phil Bernstein of MacArthur Beverages the 2011 Vintage in Washington DC, USA

The 2010 Vintage Tasting of the German Wine Society (Aaron Nix-Gomez)

Phil Bernstein’s Third Annual German Riesling Tasting with the German Wine Society, Washington DC Chapter - Rieslings With a Touch of Sweetness

schiller-wine: Related Postings

Upcoming Tours/ Wine Dinners/ Tastings - Annette and Christian Schiller/ ombiasyPR & WineTours/ schiller-wine, Germany, France, USA (March 1, 2018)

Ombiasy Wine Tours 2018: 3 x France and 3 x Germany - Ombiasy Newsletter December 2017

Rieslingfeier 2018 in New York City: Gränd Tasting and Gala Dinner

German Wines in the 21st Century - A Tasting Seminar at the 2017 American Wine Society National Conference in the Pocono Mountains of Pennsylvania, led by Annette Schiller (ombiasyPR & WineTours)

Rieslingfeier 2018 in New York City: Gränd Tasting and Gala Dinner

German Wine Basics: Sekt

A German Riesling Feast in New York City: Rieslingfeier 2016, USA

Tasting at Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz in Siebeldingen, Pfalz – Germany-South by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Tasting at Weingut Schäfer-Fröhlich in Bockenau, Nahe - Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

An Afternoon with Riesling Star Winemaker Helmut Doennhoff at Weingut Doennhoff in Oberhausen in the Nahe Valley, Germany

Tasting at the Legendary Weingut J.J. Prüm with Amei Prüm– Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016

JJ Pruem Goes Supermarket: Meeting Katharina Pruem and Tasting the Incredible JJ Pruem Wines at Wegmans

VDP.Rheinhessen Invited to a Gala Dinner: The World Class Wines of the VDP.Rheinhessen Winemakers and the World Class Food of Philipp Stein (1 Star Michelin, Favorite), with Klaus Peter Keller, Philipp Wittmann, H.O.Spanier, Caroline Gillot-Spanier and Other Rheinhessen Stars

A German Riesling Feast in New York City: Rieslingfeier 2015, USA

Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting at Weingut Selbach-Oster in Zeltingen, Mosel, with Johannes Selbach – Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2014)

Schiller’s Favorites at the 2013 Riesling and Co Tasting in New York City, USA

Chinese Food and German Wine at the Hot Spot in Berlin: 5 VDP Winemakers Pour their Wines



Cellar Visit and Tasting at Weingut Groebe in Westhofen, Rheinhessen, with Fritz Groebe - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

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Picture: Cellar Visit and Tasting at Weingut Groebe in Westhofen, Rheinhessen, with Fritz Groebe

We started the day with a tasting at Germany's #1 sparkling wine producer, Sekthaus Raumland, in Flörsheim-Dalsheim/ Rheinhessen, followed by a visit of Weingut Wittmann in Westhofen/ Rheinhessen. We had lunch at Metzger und Gasthaus Deutsches Haus in Westhofen. After lunch we went to Weingut Groebe, just opposite to Weingut Wittmann. We stayed overnight at the Hilton in Mainz.

We had a light dinner and more wine at Ladendorfs Weinhaus in Mainz. Roland Ladendorf's wine tavern has by far the best selection of German premium and ultra-premium wines among the many wine taverns in Mainz. Roland is a wine expert.

Picture: Christian Schiller and Fritz Groebe at Kloster Eberbach (2012)

At Weingut Groebe, Fritz Groebe showed us the winemaking facilities before sitting down in the stylish family room for a tasting of Weingut Groebe wines, accompagnied by delicious home-made food, including Spundekäs.

Picture: Weingut Groebe

Weingut Groebe

Weingut Groebe has as a long tradition. it was founded in the early 1600s. Weingut Groebe ist in Westhofen/ Rheinhessen, opposite to Weingut Wittmann. The estate used to be split between Biebesheim (headquarter, bottling line, warehouse) and Westhofen (vineyards and fermentation cellar). Friedrich Groebe built a new production hall in 2012 and moved everything next to his vineyard.

Pictures: Arriving

Today, the vineyard area totals 8 hectares, including holdings in the famous Aulerde, Kirchspiel, Morstein and Steingrube. Two-thirds of the area is planted with Riesling, the remainder with Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Silvaner, Scheurebe and Portugieser.

Fritz Groebe believes that good wine needs philosophy and craftsmanship, but not technology.

Along these lines, organic vineyard practices are followed, including the use of cover crops. No herbicides, insecticides or chemical fertilizers are used. Due to strong pruning of the vines in spring, the renunciation of mineral fertilization and the similar natural greening of the rows of vines, a competition arises in the vineyard. The vine suffers and searches for its food in the deeper layers of the soil.

Musts undergo spontaneous fermentation, with slow, cool fermentation being a hallmark. The wines are matured along traditional lines, exclusively in large oak vats (Stückfässer.

The wines are marketed in three ranges: Grosse Lage wines (Grosses Gewächs and sweet predicate wines from Spätlese level upwards), village wines (from Westhofen) and estate wines (Groebe á la Carte).

Weingut Groebe is a member of the VDP (Verband deutscher Prädikats- und Qualitätsweingüter), the association of about 200 German elite producers.

Pictures: Cellar Tour at Weingut Groebe

VDP: Weingut K.F. Groebe

Weingut K.F. Groebe has been in the family's hands for more than 250 years. Friedrich and Manuela Groebe cultivate nearly nine hectares of vines in Westhofen, concentrated in renowned sites such as AULERDE, KIRCHSPIEL and MORSTEIN. 2012 saw WEINGUT K.F. GROEBE return to its traditional home of Westhofen. Friedrich Groebe’s signature wine style reflects his own distinctive mix of organic cultivation, spontaneous fermentation and barrel aging. The winemaker's pride and joy: long-lived, nobly sweet Rieslings of international repute. His wines undergo an extended maturation on the lees before being bottled. Patience, intuition and attention are the keys to managing maturation, not unnecessary interventions or high tech solutions. This approach gives Groebe the flexibility for targeted stylistic exploration, with an eye toward better expression of the individual vintage and the larger German Riesling tradition.  It requires an unflagging pioneer spirit, yet opens up the freedom to create wines entirely in line with his own confident vision.

Weingut Groebe at a Glance

Owner: Friedrich Groebe

Winemaker: Friedrich Groebe

Outside Manager: Friedrich Groebe

VDP member since 2000

Bottle production: 55 000

Grape varieties: 70% Riesling, 10% Silvaner, 10% Grauburgunder, 8% Spätburgunder and others
Soil: Lössboden mit Gehängelehm & tonigen, kiesigen Sanden im Untergrund (Aulerde), Kalksteinverwitterungsboden & Tonmergel (Kirchspiel, Morstein)

Vineyards: AULERDE, Westhofen. VDP.GROSSE LAGE, MORSTEIN, Westhofen, VDP.GROSSE LAGE, KIRCHSPIEL, Westhofen, VDP.GROSSE LAGE

Tasting

After the winery tour, we sat down in the stylish family room for a tasting of Weingut Groebe wines, accompagnied by delicious home-made food, including Spundekäs.

Pictures: Tasting with Fritz Groebe

The Wines we Tasted


2016 Weingut Groebe Riesling 1763

2016 Weingut Groebe Westhofener Riesling trocken

2016 Weingut Groebe Westhofener Riesling Alte Reben

2015 Weingut Groebe Aulerde Riesling VDP.Grosses Gewächs

2012 Weingut Groebe Kirchspiel Riesling VDP.Grosses Gewächs

2003 Weingut Groebe Kirchspiel Riesling Spätlese VDP.Grosse Lage

2004 Weingut Groebe Kirchspiel Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese


Bye-bye

Thanks Fritz for a wonderful afternoon with you and your wines.

Picture: Bye-bye

Evening: Mainz

After the visit of Weingut Groebe, we drove to Mainz and checked in at the Hilton for the night. We went to Ladendorfs Weinhaus, Roland Ladendorf's wine tavern has by far the best selection of German premium and ultra-premium wines among the many wine taverns in Mainz. Roland is a wine expert. We had another Kirchspiel Riesling GG - this time from Weingut KP Keller.

Picture: The Mainz Cathedral

Picture: Hilton Mainz

Pictures: At Ladendorfs Weinhaus

schiller-wine: All Postings (Published and Forthcoming): Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: Baden, Alsace, Pfalz and Rheinhessen

Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: Baden, Alsace, Pfalz and Rheinhessen

Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour (and Lunch) with Robert Schätzle, Owner/ Winemaker, Weingut Schloss Neuweier in Baden - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

La Cucina della Passione and Weingut Schloss Neuweier Wines: Wine Pairing Lunch at Röttele’s Restaurant (1 Star Michelin) at Schloss Neuweier, with Owner and Winemaker Robert Schätzle, Weingut Schloss Neuweier - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

The Music of the A Cappella Ensemble "Männer und Tenöre" and the Wines of Weingut Aufricht, Lake Constance, Baden, with Manfred Aufricht - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

The Evolving Structure of the Wine Industry in Germany– The Case of the Lake Constance Region

Schloss Salem at Lake Constance in Germany: A Museum, a School and a Wine Estate

Visit of Schloss Salem, Kirche Birnau and Weingut Markgraf von Baden - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

The Wines of the Markgräflerland (Baden): Tasting and Cellar Tour at Weingut Löffler - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Tasting and Cellar Tour at Weingut Stigler, Baden, with Andreas, Regina and Max Stigler - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Dinner at Restaurant Schwarzer Adler, 1 Star Michelin, Oberbergen, Kaiserstuhl, Baden - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars and Wine Taverns in Freiburg, Baden, Germany

The World Class Wines of Alsace

In the world class white wine region Alsace

Tasting at Domaine Marcel Deiss in Bergheim, Alsace - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Lunch in Alsace: Wistube du Sommelier in Bergheim and L’Epicurien in Colmar - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Tasting at Domaine Dirler-Cadé with Jean Pierre Dirler and Ludevine Dirler-Cadé - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Tour and Tasting at Domaines Schlumberger in Guebwiller, Alsace - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Tour and Tasting at Hugel in Riquewhir, Alsace, with Jean Frédéric Hugel - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Dinner at the 1 Michelin Star Restaurant L’Achémille in Kaysersberg, with Owner/ Chef Jérome Jaegle - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Wine Lunch at Weingut Jülg with Johannes Jülg– Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Tasting at Maison Jülg in Seebach, Alsace, with Peter Jülg - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Schiller's Favorite (Wine-) Restaurants in Deidesheim in the Pfalz, Germany

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz in Siebeldingen, Pfalz, with Hansjörg and Valentin Rebholz and Sabine Wagner - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Münzberg/ Gunter Kessler in Landau-Godramstein, Pfalz, with Owner/ Winemaker Gunter Kessler - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Tasting and Cellar Tour at Weingut Rings in Freinsheim, Pfalz, with Andreas Rings - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Tasting at Weingut Krebs in Freinsheim, Pfalz, with Jürgen Krebs and Ann-Kathrin Müller - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Tasting at Sekthaus Raumland in Flörsheim-Dalsheim, Rheinhessen, with Heide-Rose and Volker Raumland - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Philipp Wittmann and Eva Clüsserath-Wittmann at Weingut Wittmann in Westhofen – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2014)

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Groebe in Westhofen, Rheinhessen, with Fritz Groebe

Cellar Tour and Wine Pairing Lunch at Weingut Louis Guntrum in Nierstein, Rheinhessen, with Konstantin and Stephanie Guntrum



Invitation: Annette Schiller Presents "Abbey Wines" at the German Wine Society (Washington DC Chapter), USA - Friday, April 20th, 2018

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Picture: Kloster Eberbach, Rheingau. See: Kloster Eberbach in the Rheingau: Lunch, Tour of the Abbey, the Steinberg and the Steinbergkeller, with Tasting - Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Dear German Wine Society Members and Guests:

You are in for a very special treat: “Abbey Wines”.

This tasting (and seminar) by our own Annette Schiller will show the decisive impact the monasteries and the monks starting in medieval times had on developing viticultural knowledge in Germany and elsewhere.

Annette Schiller is well known to the GWS community through previous wine tastings and her ombiasy wine tours to Bordeaux, Burgundy and Germany. She has visited almost all of the estates she will present on one or more of her tours and has intimate knowledge of these producers.

Picture: Annette Schiller with Sister Thekla Baumgart of Klosterweingut Sankt Hildegard

Annette will present 12 wines – 8 from Germany, 2 from France, 1 from Austria, 1 from Italy (Alto Aldige) – that are still produced in monasteries. Some monasteries have been secularized and taken over by government entities, some are now in private hands, others are still today run by monks or sisters. The highlight will be the Grand Cru Clos de Vougeot from the Côte d'Or which retails for about US$ 180. In 1336 the monks of Cîteaux – owners of the vineyard site Clos de Vougeot – were the first to notice that different plots gave different wines and therefore laid the earliest foundation of the vineyard classification system.

The monasteries were always a center of intellectual curiosity and thirst for knowledge. The monasteries had huge holdings on farmland and vineyards - mostly gifts of rich aristocrats who at the end of their lives thought to buy a stairway to heaven. The monks had to work in agriculture to sustain their living. Therefore the monks not only focused on religious studies but also on studying better methods in farming and viticulture. The monks were also instrumental in spreading the art of viticulture to other parts of Europe by establishing daughter monasteries all over Europe. Without their work viticulture would not have developed the way it did and would not have become a part of fine living as we know it today throughout the world.

Pictures: Arriving at Château du Clos de Vougeot. See: Visit: Château du Clos de Vougeot– Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

The wines:

01) 2015 Bermatinger Spätburgunder, Markgraf von Baden, Bodensee, Baden

02) 2015 Clos de Vougeot, Pinot Noir, Grand Cru, Burgundy, France

03) NV Crémant, Brut, von Hövel, Mosel

04) 2017 Grauburgunder, Klosterhof Töplitz, Brandenburg, Saale-Unstrut

05) 2015 Saalhäuser Pinot-Blanc, Kloster Pforta, Saale-Unstrut

06) 2016 Eisacktaler Sylvaner, Kloster Neustift, Alto Aldige, Italy

07) 2016 Grüner Veltliner, Stift Klosterneuburg, Wachau, Austria

08) 2016 Riesling, Abtei Sankt Hildegard, Rheingau

09) 2016 Riesling, Weingut Liebfrauenstift, Rheinhessen

10) 2016 Steinberger, Riesling, Kloster Eberbach, Rheingau

11) 2016 Riesling, Réserve, Domaine Weinbach, Alsace, France

12) 2014 Riesling Goldtröpfchen GG, Reichsgraf Von Kesselstatt, Mosel

Picture: Annette Schiller with Owner/ Winemaker Maximilian von Kunow at Weingut von Hövel, a Former Monastery (Mosel). See: Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut von Hövel, Saar, with Owner/ Winemaker Maximilian von Kunow - Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

DATE: Friday, April 20th, Doors open at 7:00 pm; tasting begins at 7:30 pm. Please make reservations by April 16, 2018.

VENUE: Harbour Square Club Room, 500 N St SW, Washington, DC. Marilyn Scarbrough has reserved a few parking spaces, but we cannot guarantee these will be available. The Waterfront Metro Station is nearby.

COST: $40 for members, $47 for non-members.

Cheese and charcuterie will be served. Alcohol consumption can lead to intoxication. GWS members and guests should use public transportation, rely on a designated driver or taxi, or taste the wines rather than finish them.

If you have any questions, please email Christian Schiller at cschiller@schiller-wine.com or Annette Schiller at aschiller@ombiasypr.com

Attendance will need to be limited to 46 people. Make your reservation early.

Paying by PayPal: http://germanwinesocietydc.org/shop/

Paying by check: Mail your check, made out to the ‘German Wine Society’, along with the completed form below, to:

Joseph L. Aguiar

2501 Calvert St NW
Apt 501
Washington, DC 20008

GERMAN WINE SOCIETY Abbey Wines – April 20, 2018, 7:00pm

Member(s) Name__________________________________

Non-Member(s) Name______________________________

Email__________________________________________

Telephone_______________________________________


schiller-wine: Related Postings

Upcoming Tours/ Wine Dinners/ Tastings - Annette and Christian Schiller/ ombiasyPR & WineTours/ schiller-wine, Germany, France, USA (March 1, 2018)

Ombiasy Wine Tours 2018: 3 x France and 3 x Germany - Ombiasy Newsletter December 2017

Germany meets France: Bourgogne, Baden, Alsace and Pfalz - Tasting with the German Wine Society (Washington DC Chapter), led by Annette Schiller, USA/ France/ Germany

Visit: Château du Clos de Vougeot– Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Kloster Eberbach in the Rheingau: Lunch, Tour of the Abbey, the Steinberg and the Steinbergkeller, with Tasting - Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut von Hövel, Saar, with Owner/ Winemaker Maximilian von Kunow - Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Ruinart Dinner with Frédéric Panaïotis, Chef de Cave of Maison Ruinart, at Brasserie Beck, Washington DC, with Partner-Chef Brian McBride, USA

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Pictures: Ruinart Dinner with Frédéric Panaïotis, Chef de Cave of Maison Ruinart, at Brasserie Beck, Washington DC, with Partner-Chef Brian McBride, USA

Frédéric Panaïotis, Chef de Cave of Maison Ruinart, was in town (Washington DC) and presented his sparklers at a winemaker dinner at Brasserie Beck. Partner-Chef Brian McBride composed a delicious dinner. The dinner was hosted by zachysDC.

Maison Ruinart

Ruinart is the oldest established Champagne House, exclusively producing Champagne since 1729. Founded by Nicolas Ruinart in Reims/ Champagne, Maison Rinart is today owned by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton SA.

An entrepreneur, Nicolas Ruinart realized the ambitions of his uncle, Dom Thierry Ruinart: to make Ruinart an authentic Champagne House. In the period immediately following the 1728 edict of Louis XV, which authorized the transport of wine in bottles, the house was established. Prior to this edict, wine could only be transported in barrels, which made it impossible to send Champagne to distant markets, and confined consumption primarily to its area of production.

Nicolas Ruinart founded the House of Ruinart on September 1, 1729. The first delivery of “wine with bubbles” went out in January, 1730. At first the sparkling wine was a business gift for cloth purchasers, as Dom Ruinart’s brother was a cloth merchant, but 6 years later Maison Ruinart terminated its cloth selling activities due to success in the Champagne business. Since then, the Maison has kept the standards of excellence of its founders.

Pictures: Ruinart Dinner with Frédéric Panaïotis, Chef de Cave of Maison Ruinart, at Brasserie Beck, Washington DC, with Partner-Chef Brian McBride, USA

Founded in 1729, but in 1946 Maison Ruinart was on the verge of disappearing. The two World Wars had not been kind. They owned a mere 17 hectares of vineyard, had a meager 800 cases of wine in their cellars, and just two customers, both in Paris – the grand restaurant, Maxime’s, and an up-scale cathouse, Le Sphinx. Rebuilding was slow, and the Ruinart family, lacking resources, concentrated on the domestic market where today it’s a respected brand. It also ranks somewhere in the mid-teens in world sales, but is barely known in America.

Now owned by the luxury goods conglomerate LVMH, it has been overshadowed by company's larger names: Dom Pérignon, Moet & Chandon and Veuve Clicquot. This is not necessarily an oversight – with it’s distinctive style and small production it’s not suited to the high profile marketing efforts deployed by the marquis names, “Five years ago we were barely in the US market” Frédéric Panaïotis explained during the dinner.

Not wanting to be too dependent on the French market, they have recently launched an expansion of their American presence. A discrete expansion. No supermarkets or nightclubs, and they’re steering well clear of Vegas. What they’re aiming for is placement in select restaurants and specialty wine shops, the sort of outlets that afford exposure to discerning consumers with sophisticated, developed palates who pay more attention to what’s in the bottle than on the label.

Pictures: Christian Schiller with Owner-Chef Robert Wiedmaier at Brasserie Beck

Ruinart's cellars, acquired in 1768, are amongst the largest in the region, and are Gallo-Roman in origin. Like most Champagne cellars, they are the product of ancient chalk mining, and extend 38 metres below the ground and are 8 km long. The chalk helps to keep the cellars at a constant 11 degrees Celsius. The chalk pits were classified as a historic monument in 1931.

There’s a dominance of Chardonnay in the house style, elegance outweighing power. Ruinart’s prestige cuvée range is Dom Ruinart, which includes a Blanc de Blanc made from Grand Cru Chardonnay and a Rosé. The Ruinart bottle is inspired by the first champagne bottles of the 18th century.

Champagne produces about 300 million bottles of Champagne each year. Ruinart 2.5 million; Bollinger 2.5 million; Dom Perignon 5 millio; Krug 500,000 bottles; Laurent Perrier 7 million; Louis Roederer 3.2 million; Moet & Chandon 26 million; Taittinger 5 million; Veuve Clicquot 10 million.

Frédéric Panaïotis

Frédéric Panaïotis was borne and grew up in Reims/ Champagne. He graduated from ENSA Montpellier and INSEAD. Frédéric Panaïotis worked at Scharffenberger Cellars in California and for 12 years at Champagne Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin. He joined Ruinart in 2007 as Chef de Caves.

Pictures: Christian Schiller and Frédéric Panaïotis

Interview of Frédéric Panaïotis with Adam Lechmere
Posted Tuesday, 28-Apr-2015

How did you get into wine?

I was raised in Champagne – my grandparents had vineyards. I picked grapes to earn a bit of money, and loved to see the way the wine was made, but I had no intention of going into the wine business. Until I was 18 I wanted to be a vet. I loved animals, and I wanted to be a very specific vet, in a zoo, to work with tigers, lions, elephants – all the big animals.

You were serious about that as a career?

Yes, but it was difficult to study as a vet in France and my teacher told me I should do biology as a backup, so I went to the Institut National Agronomique in Paris. Then I had to make a choice, so I was debating between fish farming and genetics and then, at Christmas 1984 or 85, when I was 21, my uncle opened a bottle of 1976 Richebourg from Gros. That was my first "wow" wine. It was amazing. So I went back to school in Paris and found there was a winemaking course, and I thought: "That's what I want to do." Not only for the products, but for the people as well. I knew that was the environment I wanted to be in.

So the wine that got you started was a Burgundy. When did you decide you wanted to make Champagne?

Never! I wanted to get away from my region. My dream was to be in Bordeaux or some place in the sun. I went to work in California [at Scharffenberger], in Minervois, and in the Rhône Valley, but eventually I ended up back in Champagne, which I don't regret at all.

Pictures: Ruinart Dinner with Frédéric Panaïotis, Chef de Cave of Maison Ruinart, at Brasserie Beck, Washington DC, with Partner-Chef Brian McBride, USA

What do you find most rewarding about making Champagne?

In terms of winemaking, the complexity of the process is very interesting. Understanding the second fermentation phase, the anticipation. Every year is so different, yet we have to make 95 per cent of the wines the same as the year before. I find that challenge very exciting. And I also like the fact that you are less important than the house. If I ask you who made the 2002 you would have no idea, and I know that in 2030 my name will be forgotten. The winemaker just has to maintain the consistency of the style. And that's it.

But – mentioning no names – there are some showmen in Champagne?

Of course. We have to travel, and talk about the wines. But my colleagues are no different to me. I can guarantee they all consider themselves secondary to the house. Look at Richard Geoffroy [the celebrated chef de cave of Ruinart's sister house Dom Pérignon]. He absolutely embodies the style. He even looks like a monk – you couldn't get any closer to Dom Pérignon than that.

Ruinart has always been the most modest of Champagne houses, hasn't it?

That's both true and not true. In France, it was the Champagne everyone has heard of – in a poll last year of 1600 people, they asked what is their ideal Champagne. Ruinart was number one by far. It was named spontaneously by 57 percent of people, before [Veuve] Clicquot, and then Roederer.

And abroad?

Historically, Ruinart was really damaged in the First World War, then the Depression and the Second World War. When Bertrand Mure took over [in 1947] he had no money, no stock, a few vineyards and no cash, so he looked to France to revive the market. Export was less than 30 percent of sales until a few years ago, while most Champagne houses are 90 percent export.

What about the US market?

It's responding very well – it's about three per cent of sales so there is a lot of room to grow, but we don't want to be in Costco or the big chains. We want to be with the right accounts in the right states. Some cities respond better than others – Las Vegas, for example, isn't doing well. Despite the fact they have the highest number of Master Sommeliers in the world, the average knowledge of consumers is not very high. Americans are not very adventurous so they will go for Dom Pérignon or Clicquot before Ruinart.

Can you talk a bit about recent vintages in Champagne – which are the best and worst?

There are no great vintages, only great bottles. Seriously – in Champagne we are worried about global warming, but it's helped us in a way. That, plus our knowledge of the vineyard, and the knowledge of winemaking. We used to be able to have a vintage three years out of 10, but now it's more like one year in 10 that you can't make a vintage. Maybe it's lowered the value of the idea of vintage.

Pictures: Ruinart Dinner with Frédéric Panaïotis, Chef de Cave of Maison Ruinart, at Brasserie Beck, Washington DC, with Partner-Chef Brian McBride, USA

Ruinart was the odd one out in 2012. Most houses considered it excellent but you didn't. Why was that?

2012 remains a mystery to me. The Chardonnay grapes were the best I have ever seen in my life; mature, healthy, great yield, everything was perfect. But when we tasted in October I thought there was something wrong with my nose, as the wine wasn't expressing anything. We were very disappointed by it. Everyone said what a fantastic vintage it was, and I thought I must have messed up something. So we didn't make anything that year.

Is there anywhere else you could make sparkling wine as well as in Champagne?

There are cool-climate regions where you can make sparkling wine as good as most Champagnes, but with the great regions of the world there is often a level where you can't compete. You can find excellent sparkling wine but there is no wine to match the quality of the prestige cuvée.

Is that terroir or winemaking expertise?

It's terroir: soil and climate, and collective knowledge. It's not the technique – you can have the best winemaker in the world but if you haven't got the land you can't make great wine. It's the grasp of the land and how to interpret it. That takes many years and it can't be replicated.

Do you think you're going to stay in Champagne for the rest of your career?

When you join a company like Ruinart you stay there. I told my boss, if you want me to stay I will stay – I'll stay until 2029 and drink those 1929 bottles. If I have to move, I've thought about making my own wine, not necessarily Champagne, but in a place where it’s easy to sell – the hardest part is selling, not making. I don't want to kill the romance but I'm pragmatic.

When you're not making wine, what do you do to relax?

I'm a free diving instructor – I haven't been exercising recently but, a few years ago, I could stay down for five minutes. A lot of it is in here [taps head]. You have to be super-relaxed and zen. I don't compete at the top level – they go down 100 meters and I can do 36m. That's not bad. It's the depth of the Crayères [the famous chalk cellars] at Ruinart.

Ruinart Dinner with Frédéric Panaïotis, Chef de Cave of Maison Ruinart

Canapé

Buckweat Blini, Crème Fraîche, Trout Roe

NV Ruinart Brut Blanc de Blancs


First Course

Pan Seared Maine Scallops
Red & Yellow Pepper Coulis
Aged Sherry Shallot Essence

NV Ruinart Brut Blanc de Blancs Magnum


Second Course

Pan Seared Duck Breast
Caramelized Onions, Soubise
Wild Rice Cake, Tarragon Essence

NV Ruinart Rosé


Third Course

Ossau Iraty, Sheep's Milk
Mâche & Green Apple Salad

2006 Dom Ruinart Blanc de Blancs 


Chef Brian McBride

Zachy's/ Ruinart Dinner

Zachy's: Earlier this week, we joined Ruinart’s Chef de Cave, Frederic Panaiotis, to taste through the current releases of Blanc de Blancs, Brut Rosé, and 2006 Dom Ruinart Brut. As we’ve come to expect with Ruinart, each bottle demonstrated the characteristic obsession with vivacity and purity that is the hallmark of this remarkable house. And while all the wines were extraordinary, the 2006 Dom Ruinart Blanc de Blancs stole the show, and top critics around the world are in agreement:

97+ Points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous: “The 2006 Dom Ruinart Blanc de Blancs Brut is simply fabulous. In most vintages, Dom Ruinart is a big, ample Champagne that shows the structure of the Montagne de Reims Chardonnay in the blend. The 2006 has plenty of textural resonance and richness, and yet I am also struck by its tension. Both bottles I tasted point to a Dom Ruinart that is quite a bit more polished and sophisticated than it often is at this stage”

95 Points, James Suckling: “Exquisite, precise and powerful, with plenty of upfront appeal. This has a toasty edge to the nose with brioche and lemon citrus. The palate delivers a smoothly finished texture and sizzling acid finish. A bright, driving 2006. Drink now.”

And the non-vintage wines are not to be overlooked either. With an emphasis on mineral-driven Chardonnay, Ruinart’s NV wines balance brightness and purity with structured, chalky complexity. They remain some of the greatest values and most interesting wines in big house Champagne. “Stylised and uncompromising.... Not for mainstream palates, perhaps, but should satisfy most ardent fizzophiles.” (Richard Hemming, MW)

Don’t miss out on this chance to stock up on some of the greatest Champagnes for spring!

2006 Dom Ruinart Blanc de Blancs Brut - Sale price: $149.99

97 Points, Alison Napjus, Wine Spectator: "A statuesque Champagne, firm and finely knit, with a beautiful array of baked white peach, almond biscotti, pastry cream and crystallized honey flavors riding the silky mousse. A rich and smoky note of toasted brioche echoes on the chiseled finish. Drink now through 2031." 11/17


Ruinart - Blanc de Blancs Brut (375ml) - Sale price: $52.99

92 Points, Alison Napjus, Wine Spectator: "A finely knit Champagne, this is driven by smoky minerality and layered with a subtle mix of lemon curd, biscuit, Acacia blossom and white peach puree. Long and vibrant on the spiced finish. Drink now through 2020. 5,232 cases imported." 10/16

Ruinart - Blanc de Blancs Brut - Sale price: $64.99

92 Points, Alison Napjus, Wine Spectator: "A finely knit Champagne, this is driven by smoky minerality and layered with a subtle mix of lemon curd, biscuit, Acacia blossom and white peach puree. Long and vibrant on the spiced finish. Drink now through 2020. 5,232 cases imported." 10/16


Ruinart - Blanc de Blancs Brut (1.5L) - Sale price: $172.99

92 Points, Alison Napjus, Wine Spectator: "A finely knit Champagne, this is driven by smoky minerality and layered with a subtle mix of lemon curd, biscuit, Acacia blossom and white peach puree. Long and vibrant on the spiced finish. Drink now through 2020. 5,232 cases imported." 10/16


Ruinart - Brut Rosé Champagne (375ml) - Sale price: $49.99

92 Points, Alison Napjus, Wine Spectator: "A fresh and focused rosé Champagne, with a satiny mousse and a subtle streak of smoke underscoring the well-knit flavors of white raspberry and wild strawberry fruit, pastry cream and candied orange zest. Drink now through 2021." 11/17

Ruinart - Brut Rosé Champagne - Sale price: $68.99

92 Points, Alison Napjus, Wine Spectator: "A fresh and focused rosé Champagne, with a satiny mousse and a subtle streak of smoke underscoring the well-knit flavors of white raspberry and wild strawberry fruit, pastry cream and candied orange zest. Drink now through 2021." 11/17


Ruinart - Brut Rosé Champagne (1.5L) - Sale price: $187.99

92 Points, Alison Napjus, Wine Spectator: "A fresh and focused rosé Champagne, with a satiny mousse and a subtle streak of smoke underscoring the well-knit flavors of white raspberry and wild strawberry fruit, pastry cream and candied orange zest. Drink now through 2021." 11/17

Brasserie Beck/ Gayot

Brasserie Beck Restaurant Review: Beautiful people cluster at the door, at the bar, and on every available inch of floor space, drinking, nibbling, chatting, and possibly waiting for their seating. What’s the draw? Robert Wiedmaier’s cooking, a delightful and beguiling composite of Belgian and French flavors served forth with American sparkle. The second of his DC restaurants, Brasserie Beck offers topnotch DC dining from the fresh mussels poached in a broth accented with wine, curry, garlic and fennel. You’ll want plenty of the fresh, hot bread for soaking up the poaching broth---either that or a straw. We also suggest the braised pork belly, a wedge of creamy pork roasted until tender and melty. But for starters, nothing tops the roulade of duck confit, a supremely rich offering of braised duck leg meat stirred with pâté and crisped just before serving. Entrées hit all the high marks, from coq au vin and grilled beef steak with green peppercorns to roasted rabbit loin and crispy skate wing, plus a seafood bonanza platter with lobster, oysters, clams and shrimp. But our favorite will always be the choucroute “en croute,” a dish of flaky pastry, pork, sauerkraut and seasonings baked until just fragrant, and ready to devour. Wiedmaier is renowned for his desserts, but none can trump his caramel-rich pear tarte Tatin, a triumph of sweetness over calories. On the other hand, wouldn’t a wedge of caramel cheesecake satisfy the inner glutton? And to top it all, check out the 100 or so Belgian beers on hand.

Pictures: Brasserie Beck

Partner-Chef Brian McBride

Brian McBride, a Newark native, landed his first job as a chef at the Empress Room at the Hyatt in Cambridge, then at the cutting edge of the hot trend that became known as Asian Fusion. After a while, his career with Hyatt brought him to London. A brief break from Hyatt for 3 years found him working in Cuernavaca, Mexico at Las Mañanitas, a Relais & Châteaux property, creating authentic Mexican cuisine. Returning to the Hyatt, he opened The Park Hyatt Washington, DC in 1986 - and stayed on for 26 years, the last 20 of which he served as executive chef, overseeing food service throughout the hotel. He created the celebrated Blue Duck Tavern that took Washington by storm.

Picture: Frédéric Panaïotis, Chef de Cave of Maison Ruinart, at Brasserie Beck, Washington DC, with Partner-Chef Brian McBride, USA

For over the course of all those years, he formed a close bond with fellow chef Robert Wiedmaier, whose career paralleled his own in the Washington hotel world before Wiedmaier opened Marcel's, the #1 restaurant in town, according to Zagat. The friendly rivalry between Marcel's and Blue Duck Tavern for top spot melted away in 2011, when Brian McBride joined Robert Wiedmaier as Partner-Chef.

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Tour and Tasting at the Historic Weingut Juliusspital in Würzburg, Franken - Germany-East Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

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Picture: Tour and Tasting at Weingut Juliusspital in Würzburg, Franken.

Juliusspital is Germany’s second largest winery with 180 hectares under vines in the most renowned sites of Franken, and one of the always top rated wineries. The appeal of the wines lies in their fascinating diversity. This winery is part of the charitable foundation Juliusspital, which was founded more than 430 years ago by the Prince-Bishop of Würzburg, Julius Echter von Mespelbrunn, and still today comprises among other institutions a hospital, a hospice, and care facilities for the elderly and the poor. In order to equip the foundation with the necessary financial means Julius Echter founded, among other business entities, a winery to guarantee steady income. The beautiful historical cellars with the old traditional wooden casks are still in use for fermentation and aging.

Franken

Franken, located in the northern part of Bavaria, is boasting a long tradition and some fine terroirs (mostly shell limestone and Keuper, a kind of marl). Its two leading grape varieties are Riesling and Silvaner. Typically, Franken wine comes in the distinctive, dumpily-rounded Franken “Bocksbeutel” wine bottle. The bottle’s unusual shape dates back to at least the 16th century. The Bocksbeutel may only be used for Franken wines. In Germany, it is a sign of excellence, while in the US, many consumers link this kind of bottle shape to lower quality wine.

Juliusspital Foundation

Weingut Juliusspital is Germany’s second largest winery with 177 hectares under vines in the most renowned sites of Franken, and one of the always top rated wineries. Weingut Juliusspital is a member of the VDP – the association of about 200 German elite winemakers.

Weingut Juliusspital is a very special winery in that it is owned by and part of the charitable Juliusspital Foundation, which was founded in 1576 by the Prince-Bishop of Würzburg, Julius Echter von Mespelbrunn.

At the center of the Juliusspital Foundation are a hospital, an assisted living home for elderly people and a hospice. This has been so for more than 400 years. Today, the buildings of the Juliusspital Foundation comprise many modern buildings but also very impressive and well maintained historical buildings.

As to the latter, the Fürstenbau, a palatial building, designed by the architect Antonio Petrini built in the Barock style with its historical cellar vaults, its garden pavilion and the fountain statues of Jacob van der Auvera, make the Juliusspital a unique monument of art and culture at the heart of the city of Würzburg. The historical cellars, which we had the opportunity to visit, with the old traditional wooden casks, are still in use for fermentation and aging.

Pictures: Juliusspital Foundation

Pictures: Fürstenbau

Weingut Juliusspital

Since its establishment, the profits of the Weingut Juliusspital have contributed to the financing of the social services of the Juliusspital Foundation. In addition to the vineyard land, the Juliusspital Foundation also owns farm land and forests.

Vineyards: 177 ha (437 acres) all over Franken
Annual production: 1.4 million bottles - all screwcap
Average yield: 63 hl per ha (25 hl per acre)
10% export
60% Bocksbeutel bottles
Grape Varieties: 40 % Silvaner, 25 % Riesling, 6 % Müller-Thurgau

Pictures: In the Cellar

Vineyards and Soil Types

Muschelkalk (shelly limestone): Wines from our sites in Würzburg, Randersacker, Thüngersheim, Volkach and Escherndorf are influenced by medium and upper Muschelkalk. They are elegant, have a fine fruity taste and intense minerality.

Keuper: The deep, dark, fine-grained gypsum Keuper soil around Iphofen and Rödelsee produces a well-defined wine with a herbaceous character and long cellar life.

Red Sandstone: Near Bürgstadt on the Lower Main, the soils are shallow and stony. They are characterised as “fervid”. Fruity, elegant red wines with a pleasant tannin level are produced from the vines grown here.

The top sitesof Weingut Juliusspital are: Würzburger Stein, Iphöfer Julius-Echter-Berg, Volkacher Karthäuser, Randersackerer Pfülben, Rödelseer Küchenmeister and Escherndorfer Lump.

10 percent of the Weingut Juliusspital vineyards are organic.

Tasting

The tour ended with a tasting in one of the rooms of the cellar.

Pictures: Tasting

Here are the wines we tasted:

2016 Juliusspital Riesling trocken VDP.Gutswein
2016 WürzburgerMüller-Thurgau trocken VDP.Ortswein
2016 Würzburger Abtsleite Silvaner trocken VDP.Erste Lage
2016 Ihöfer Kronsberg Silvaner trocken VDP.Erste Lage
2016 Würzburger Stein Silvaner trocken VDP.Erste Lage
2015 Iphöfer Julius-Echter-Berg Silvaner trocken VDP.Grosse Lage GG
2015 Volkacher Karthäuser Weisser Burgunder trocken VDP.Grosse Lage GG

Lunch at the Juliusspital Tavern

Following the tour and tasting, we walked over to the Juliusspital wine tavern and had lunch there.

Pictures: Lunch at the Juliusspital Wine Tavern

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