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Rieslingfeier 2018 in New York City: Gränd Tasting and Gala Dinner

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Picture: Jochen Dreissigacker, Weingut Dreissigacker, Andreas Hütwohl, Weingut von Winning, Andreas Spreitzer, Weingut Spreitzer and Johannes Leitz, Weingut Leitz, at the Rieslingfeier 2018 in New York City

Rieslingfeier is an annual event in New York City that celebrates Riesling, in particular German Riesling. The cornerstone event is the Rieslingfeier Gala Dinner. Inspired by Daniel Johnnes’ famous Burgundy fête “La Paulée” it is very likely the greatest German wine BYOB dinner in the world, with both winemakers and guests bringing special bottles from their cellars to share.

Rieslingfeier is orchestrated by Stephen Bitterolf of the vom Boden wine importing company.





Pictures: New York Impressions

This year, the Rieslingfeier took place on Saturday January 27, 2018. The 2018 Rieslingfeier consisted of 2 events: The Gränd Tasting at Craft Restaurant in New York City Downtown during the day and the Gala Dinner at Reynard/ Wythe Hotel in Williamsburg in the evening.

13 top German wine producers and (for the first time) 1 top Alsacian producer were in attendance.

For previous Rieslingfeier events, see:

2017
The Annual "Slaughterhouse" Riesling Feast in New York: Rieslingfeier 2017, USA

2016
A German Riesling Feast in New York City: Rieslingfeier 2016, USA
Rieslingfeier 2016 in New York – Gränd Tasting: The Winemakers of the Rieslingfeier 2016, USA
Rieslingfeier 2016 in New York– Gala Dinner, USA

2015
A German Riesling Feast in New York City: Rieslingfeier 2015, USA
The 11 Winemakers: Rieslingfeier 2015 in New York City, USA
Riesling Crawl in New York City– Or, Where to Buy German Wine in Manhattan: Schiller's Favorite Wine Stores, USA
The Gala Dinner of the Rieslingfeier 2015 in New York City, USA

Participating Winemakers

13 top German wine producers and (for the first time) 1 top Alsacian producer were in attendance. Annette Schiller, who organizes wines tours (ombiasyPR and WineTours), and Christian Schiller, who blogs on schiller-wine, joined the 2018 celebration of German Riesling. We were happy to meet the participating German elite winemakers. Many of them we know personally. Some of them we call our friends. Most of them we have visited on a recent ombiasy wine tour.

Trimbach

Alsace
100 hectares
Jean Trimbach



Pictures: Christian Schiller with Jean Trimbach at Maison Trimbach in Ribeauville in Alsace. See: Visiting Jean Trimbach at Maison Trimbach in Ribeauville in Alsace (2011)


Pictures: With Hubert Trimbach at Maison Trimbach in 2014. See: At Maison Trimbach in Alsace with Hubert Trimbach – Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)


Pictures: Christian Schiller and Annette Schiller with Jean Trimbach at Open Kitchen, Virginia, USA. See: Back in the Washington DC Area: Jean Trimbach Presented Maison Trimbach Wines at a Winemaker Dinner at Open Kitchen, USA (2013)

Koehler-Ruprecht

Pfalz
13 hectares
54% Riesling, 20% Spätburgunder
Louis - Dressner
General Manager Dominik Sona





Pictures:Tour and Tasting at Weingut Koehler Ruprecht in Kallstadt, Pfalz, with Franzi Schmitt – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

von Winning

Pfalz
49 hectares
80% Riesling
Skurnik/ Theise
Deputy Managing Director Andreas Hütwohl

Picture: At Weingut von Winning in Deidesheim, Pfalz. See: Tour and Tasting at Weingut von Winning in Deidesheim, Pfalz– Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), Germany

Dreissigacker

Rheinhessen
28 hectares
60% Riesling
Schatzi Wines
Jochen Dreissigacker




Pictures: Tasting the Wines President Obama was Served: At Weingut Dreissigacker in Bechtheim, Rheinhessen, with Ute Dreissigacker – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), Germany

Leitz

Rheingau
43 hectares
98% Riesling
Schatzi Wines
Johannes Leitz

Picture: Annette Schiller and Johannes Leitz, Weingut Josef Leitz, at Kloster Eberbach, Germany



Pictures: With Johannes Leitz at Weingut Leitz. See: Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Leitz in Rüdesheim, with Johannes Leitz – Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Spreitzer

Rheingau
21 hectares
95% Riesling
Skurnik/ Theise
Andreas Spreitzer






Picture: Tour and Tasting at Weingut Spreitzer in Oestrich, Rheingau, with Bernd Spreitzer – Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), Germany

Diel

Nahe
25 hectares
60% Riesling
Skurnik/ Theise
Caroline Diel
Sylvain Diel







Pictures: Christian Schiller with Armin, Caroline and Anouk Diel at Schlossgut Diel in Germany. See: Tasting with Sylvain Taurisson Diel at Schlossgut Diel, Nahe– Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2014)


Pictures: Annette Schiller with Caroline Diel and Armin Diel at the 2017 Schlossgut Diel Christmas Market

Dönnhoff

Nahe
28 hectares
80% Riesling
Skurnik/ Theise
Cornelius Dönnhoff

Picture: Christian Schiller with Helmut Dönnhoff, Weingut Hermann Dönnhoff

Picture: Annette Schiller, Helmut Dönnhoff and Daughter Christina Dönnhoff (Weingut Dönnhoff) and Didier Cuevelier (Chateau Leoville Poyferre) at Weingut Dr. Robert Weil



Pictures: Wine Tasting and Cellar Tour at Weingut Dönnhoff with Christina Dönnhoff– Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2014)

Immich-Batterieberg

Mosel
9 hectares
100% Riesling
Louis - Dressner
General Manager/ Winemaker Gernot Kollmann





Pictures: Tasting and Vineyard Visit at Weingut Immich-Batterieberg in Enkirch, Mosel, with Gernot Kollmann - Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Picture: Gernot Kollmann, Weingut Immich-Batterieberg, Annette Schiller, ombiasy WineTours, Dominik Sona and Franzi Schmitt, Weingut Koehler-Ruprecht and Clemens Busch, Weingut Clemens Busch, at Bart Vandaele's BToo in Washington DC. See: Post-Rieslingfeier and Pre-Big Glou Dinner with 3 Top Winemakers from Germany at BToo in Washington DC: Clemens Busch, Immich-Batterieberg and Koehler-Ruprecht, USA

Willi Schaefer

Mosel
4 hectares
100% Riesling
Skurnik/ Theise
Christoph Schaefer

Selbach-Oster

Mosel
22 hectares
97% Riesling
Skurnik/ Theise
Johannes Selbach

Picture: With Johannes Selbach at Weingut Selbach-Oster in Zeltingen, Mosel. See: Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting at Weingut Selbach-Oster in Zeltingen, Mosel, with Johannes Selbach– Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2014)

Picture: Johannes and Barbara Selbach and Annette Schiller in New York at the 2015 Rieslingfeier, see: The 11 Winemakers: Rieslingfeier 2015 in New York City, USA

Picture: Christian Schiller and Johannes Selbach in New York City at the 2013 Riesling and Co Tasting, see: Schiller’s Favorites at the 2013 Riesling and Co Tasting in New York City, USA

Egon Müller

Mosel
8 hectares
98% Riesling
Egon Müller


Pictures: Annette and Christian Schiller with Egon Müller, Weingut Egon Müller, at the Rieslingfeier 2015 in New York City, USA, see: The 11 Winemakers: Rieslingfeier 2015 in New York City, USA

Picture: Annette Schiller and Egon Müller. See: The Annual "Slaughterhouse" Riesling Feast in New York: Rieslingfeier 2017, USA

Hofgut Falkenstein

Mosel
8 hectares
80% Riesling
Owner Johannes Weber
Owner Franz Weber
Lars Carlberg


Pictures: Germany’s Best Winemakers and Wines– Vinum WeinGuide Deutschland 2018 Awards: The Award Ceremony in Mainz, Germany

Lauer

Mosel
9 hectars
100% Riesling
Vom Boden
Florian Lauer



Pictures: Florian Lauer, Weingut Peter Lauer, and Christian Schiller. See: Germany’s Best Winemakers and Wines – Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2016 Awards: The Awards Ceremony in Mainz, Germany

Rieslingfeier: Gränd Tasting

Saturday, January 27th, 2018 | 10:30am-3:00pm
Craft Restaurant
43 East 19th Street, New York, NY

The first of the 2 Rieslingfeier events was a walk-around tasting with the 14 participating winemakers. All producers were in attendance pouring 3 to 4 of their wines.





Pictures: Gränd Tasting

Gränd Tasting: Trimbach

Alsace
100 hectares
Jean Trimbach

2014 Reserve Magnum
2015 Sélection Vieilles Vignes
2008 Cuvée Frédéric Emile


Pictures: Jean Trimbach, Egon Müller, Annette Schiller

Gränd Tasting: Koehler-Ruprecht

Pfalz
13 hectares
54% Riesling, 20% Spätburgunder
Louis - Dressner
General Manager Dominik Sona

2016 Saumagen Kabinett Trocken
2015 Saumagen Spätlese trocken
2016 Steinacker Kabinett
2015 Saumagen Auslese



Gränd Tasting: von Winning

Pfalz
49 hectares
80% Riesling
Skurnik/ Theise
Deputy Managing Director Andreas Hütwohl

2016 Paradiesgarten 1e Lage Trocken
2016 Kalkofen GG
2016 Sauvignon Blanc "I"



Gränd Tasting: Dreissigacker

Rheinhessen
28 hectares
60% Riesling
Schatzi Wines
Jochen Dreissigacker

2016 "Organic" Trocken
2016 Bechtheimer Trocken
2015 Bechtheimer Trocken
2013 Geyersberg Trocken



Gränd Tasting: Spreitzer

Rheingau
21 hectares
95% Riesling
Skurnik/ Theise
Andreas Spreitzer

2016 "Muschelkalk" Trocken
2016 Wisselbrunnen GG
2016 Jesuitengarten "Alte Reben" Feinherb


Pictures: Annette Schiller, Andreas Spreitzer, David Schildknecht

Gränd Tasting: Diel

Nahe
25 hectares
60% Riesling
Skurnik/ Theise
Caroline Diel
Sylvain Diel

2016 "Von der Nahe" Feinherb
2016 Eierfels Trocken
2016 Goldloch GG



Gränd Tasting: Lauer

Mosel
9 hectars
100% Riesling
Vom Boden
Florian Lauer

2016 "Barrel X"
2016 "Senior" Fass 6
2016 Stirn Fass 15



Gränd Tasting: Dönnhoff

Nahe
28 hectares
80% Riesling
Skurnik/ Theise
Cornelius Dönnhoff

2016 Kahlenberg Dry
2016 Krötenpfuhl Kabinett
2016 Kirschheck Spätlese


Pictures: Cornelius Dönnhoff, David Schildknecht, Annette Schiller

Gränd Tasting: Immich-Batterieberg

Mosel
9 hectares
100% Riesling
Louis - Dressner
General Manager/ Winemaker Gernot Kollmann

2015 "CAI"
2016 Escheburg
2014 Ellergrube



Gränd Tasting: Egon Müller

Mosel
8 hectares
98% Riesling
Egon Müller

2014 Kanta (Australia)
2015 Château Belá (Slovak Republic)
2016 "Scharzhofberg" QbA
2016 Scharzhofberg Kabinett "Alte Reben"
2016 Scharzhofberg Spätlese



Gränd Tasting: Leitz

Rheingau
43 hectares
98% Riesling
Schatzi Wines
Johannes Leitz

2016 Berg Kaisersteinfels "Terrassen" GG
2016 Berg Roseneck "Katerloch" GG
2016 Berg Rotland "Hinterhaus" GG


Pictures: Johannes Leitz, Kevin Pike of Schatzi-Wines

Gränd Tasting: Selbach-Oster

Mosel
22 hectares
97% Riesling
Skurnik/ Theise
Johannes Selbach

2016 Schlossberg "Böhmer" Trocken
2016 Sonnenuhr Spätlese Feinherb "Uralte Reben"
2016 Sonnenuhr Spätlese



Gränd Tasting: Hofgut Falkenstein

Mosel
8 hectares
80% Riesling
Owner Johannes Weber
Owner Franz Weber
Lars Carlberg

2016 Herrenberg Kabinett Trocken #1
2016 Sonnenberg Spätlese Trocken
2016 Herrenberg Kabinett Feinherb #4
2016 Herrenberg Spätlese #11



Gränd Tasting: Willi Schaefer

Mosel
4 hectares
100% Riesling
Skurnik/ Theise
Christoph Schaefer

2016 Himmelreich Kabinett
2016 Himmelreich Spätlese
2016 Domprobst Spätlese #10



Rieslingfeier: Gala Dinner

Saturday, February 18th, 2017 | 7pm
Reynard | Wythe Hotel
80 Wythe Avenue, Brooklyn, NY

Picture: Wythe Hotel in Brooklyn

There were 14 tables with 1 winemaker and 10 guests at each table.

The five course meal was customized by Reynard’sExecutive Chef Christina Lecki to pair with dry and off-dry Riesling.

The wine service was presided over by Rieslingfeier Chef Sommelier Raj Vaidya along with a group of the country's top sommeliers.

At each table, about 20 wines were served, provided by the host winemaker and his/ her guests. At the table of Egon Müller, for example, you would be served about 10 Egon Müller wines and 10 wines the guests brought from their cellars.

All the wines were outstanding, but some of them were out of this world. You could walk to other tables and taste the wines poured there. Guests and winemakers also walked around and shared the wines with other people.

The evening began at 7pm with a Weingut Dreissigacker Sekt reception. Dinner started at 8:00pm and ended at around midnight.

Reception with Dreissigacker Sekt

The evening began at 7pm with a Weingut Dreissigacker Sekt reception.


Pictures: Jochen Dreissigacker and his Riesling Sekt Brut


Picture: Andreas Spreitzer, Weingut Spreitzer, Johannes Leitz, Weingut Leitz, Andreas Hütwohl, Weingut von Winning, Cornelius Dönnhoff, Weingut Dönnhoff

Picture: Jochen Dreissigacker, Weingut Dreissigacker, Johannes Leitz, Weingut Leitz, Caroline Diel, Schlossgut Diel, Andreas Spreitzer, Weingut Spreitzer

Picture: Gernot Kollmann, Weingut Immich-Batterieberg, Jean Trimbach, David Schildknecht

Picture: Egon Müller and Caroline Diel

The Gala Dinner

Following the Sekt Reception, Stephen Bitterolf welcomed and introduced the visiting winemakers. The 28 sommeliers (2 at each table) started to pour the wines and the first course was served. During the next 4 hours or so we all enjoyed a wonderful dinner with amazing wines, from the table where you were seated but also from the other tables. People - winemakers, consumers and reps/ importers - tend to walk around at the Rieslingfeier Gala Dinner, either with their own wine or with a glass exploring what is being poured at other tables.

Picture: Stephen Bitterolf Introducing the Winemakers








14 Tables at the Gala Dinner

There were 14 tables with 1 winemaker and 10 guests sitting at each table.

Gala Dinner: Lauer Table

Mosel
9 hectars
100% Riesling
Vom Boden
Florian Lauer



Pictures. Florian Lauer and Aldo Sohm

Gala Dinner: Willi Schaefer Table

Mosel
4 hectares
100% Riesling
Skurnik/ Theise
Christoph Schaefer


Pictures: Christian Schiller, Christoph Schaefer and Annette Schiller



Gala Dinner: Dreissigacker Table

Rheinhessen
28 hectares
60% Riesling
Schatzi Wines
Jochen Dreissigacker



Picture: Jochen Dreissigacker and Sylvain Diel

Gala Dinner. Leitz Table

Rheingau
43 hectares
98% Riesling
Schatzi Wines
Johannes Leitz



Gala Dinner: Spreitzer Table

Rheingau
21 hectares
95% Riesling
Skurnik/ Theise
Andreas Spreitzer





Gala Dinner: Dönnhoff Table

Nahe
28 hectares
80% Riesling
Skurnik/ Theise
Cornelius Dönnhoff



Gala Dinner: von Winning Table

Pfalz
49 hectares
80% Riesling
Skurnik/ Theise
Deputy Managing Director Andreas Hütwohl



Gala Dinner: Selbach-Oster Table

Mosel
22 hectares
97% Riesling
Skurnik/ Theise
Johannes Selbach



Gala Dinner: Koehler-Ruprecht Table

Pfalz
13 hectares
54% Riesling, 20% Spätburgunder
Louis - Dressner
General Manager Dominik Sona




Gala Dinner: Immich-Batterieberg Table

Mosel
9 hectares
100% Riesling
Louis - Dressner
General Manager/ Winemaker Gernot Kollmann



Gala Dinner: Trimbach Table

Alsace
100 hectares
Jean Trimbach





Gala Dinner: Hofgut Falkenstein Table

Mosel
8 hectares
80% Riesling
Owner Johannes Weber
Owner Franz Weber
Lars Carlberg


Pictures: David Schildtknecht and Johannes Weber

Gala Dinner: Egon Müller Table

Mosel
8 hectares
98% Riesling
Egon Müller




Picture: Annette Schiller Pouring a Scharzhofberger Kabinett

Gala Dinner: Schlossgut Diel Table

Nahe
25 hectares
60% Riesling
Skurnik/ Theise
Caroline Diel
Sylvain Diel

This year, my wife Annette Schiller and I were sitting with Caroline Diel and Sylvain Diel, Schlossgut Diel. Ryan Plas/ Coquette/ New Orleans and Andrew Algren/ Cherry Circle Room/ Chicago were pouring the wines.









The Menu

The food was excellent, but, of course, a bit on the backburner with all these outstanding wines being poured into your glass, at your table as well as on all the other tables.







Our Wines: 2 GGs

We brought, as Stuart Pigott commented on facebook, a "cool couple" of wines: a Riesling from the up-and-coming producer Weingut Schätzel in Rheinhessen and a Pinot Blanc from an off-the-beaten-track wine region, Saale-Unstrut in the eastern part of Germany. Both producers are not (yet) available in the US market.

2016 Weingut Schätzel, Hipping, Riesling GG - Rheinhessen
2016 Weingut Lützkendorf, Hohe Gräte, Weisburgunder GG - Saale/ Unstrut

Picture: Annette Schiller and Ryan Plas/ Coquette/ New Orleans

Picture: Andrew Algren/ Cherry Circle Room/ Chicago

Picture: Annette Schiller and Valerie Masten of Skurnik/ Theise

The End

The 2018 Rieslingfeier ended around midnight. Again, it was an unforgettable event with amazing wines, including a 1939 Riesling from Weingut Spreitzer and a 2009 G-Max from Klaus Peter Keller (with trades at the seconday market for US1500 currently), to single out 2 wines among the many outstanding wines that I was able to taste.




Picture: Jochen Dreissigacker and Andreas Spreitzer

Picture: Jochen Dreissigacker, Weingut Dreissigacker, Andreas Hütwohl, Weingut von Winning, Andreas Spreitzer, Weingut Spreitzer and Johannes Leitz, Weingut Leitz



Going Back to the Hotel

Picture: Crossing the East River into New York Downton

Stephen Bitterolf

Rieslingfeier was founded in 2012 by Stephen Bitterolf, a passionate advocate for Germany's culture of winemaking. He was the Wine Director at Crush Wine & Spirits in New York where he helped develop one of the largest German wine programs in the country before founding his own import company, vom Boden.



Pictures: Stephen Bitterolf at the 2018 Gränd Tasting and the Gala Dinner, Opening and Closing

Opera

Annette and I travelled to New York on Friday, January 26. We had bought tickets for the Metropolitan Opera. We also went to 2 wine bars.

Pocket Bar NYC: A tiny neighborhood wine bar.

Ardesia (510 W 52nd St): Le Bernardin veteran Mandy Oser’s iron-and-marble gem offers superior wines in a relaxed setting.



Pictures: Pocket Bar NYC


Pictures: Ardesia

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Picture: Visit and Tasting at Château Poujeaux, Appellation Moulis-en-Médoc, Cru Bourgeois, with Winemaker Christophe Labenne

Château Poujeaux is one of the most highly regarded wines within Moulis, alongside Château Chasse-Spleen.

Winemaker Christophe Labenne, from the family that used to own the estate, was our host.

Pictures: Visit and Tasting at Château Poujeaux, Appellation Moulis-en-Médoc, Cru Bourgeois, with Winemaker Christophe Labenne

Château Poujeaux

Château Poujeaux is a leading Cru Bourgois property. In the 2003 classification of Cru Bourgeois wines, Château Poujeaux was one of just nine to be placed in the highest category, Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnels.

Château Poujeaux exists since the 16th century. In medieval times it was a manor that belonged to Latour Saint-Mambert which later became Château Latour. In the 19th century it became its independent wine producing entity, with the property passing through many hands and being divided into different estates, until the Theil family purchased it and had the good foresight to put Poujeaux back together. They breathed new life into the property. In 2008 Philippe Cuvelier and his son Matthieu took over the estate. Since then, the bar has been raised, and the wines have acquired new richness and polish. Its increasingly fine reputation over the last 20 years has done much to raise the profile of the Moulis region.

Pictures: Visit and Tasting at Château Poujeaux, Appellation Moulis-en-Médoc, Cru Bourgeois, with Winemaker Christophe Labenne

Vineyard and Wines

The estate lies to the north east of Moulis, with the 52 hectares of vines grouped together in one single block, planted on the left bank’s famous Günz gravel on banks around the village of Grand Poujeaux. Château Poujeaux produces about 25,000 cases of wine per year. The grape varieties used are 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc and 5% Petit Verdot. A second wine is produced, under the name La Salle de Poujeaux.

The Cuveliers recognized the talents of the winemaking team, which remains unchanged since they took over (the winemaker is the former owners’ grandson), but they have employed Stéphane Derenoncourt as a consultant. Grapes are vinified plot by plot in small tanks, before spending 12 months in oak, around a third of which is new.

With its higher proportion of Merlot and more evident influence of new oak, Poujeaux is usually easier to enjoy younger than Chasse-Spleen (usually for between seven and 20 years), though both wines age very well.

Tasting

Pictures: Tasting at Château Poujeaux, Appellation Moulis-en-Médoc, Cru Bourgeois, with Winemaker Christophe Labenne

The Wines

Picture: 2009 Château Poujeaux and 2013 La Salle de Poujeaux

2009 Château Poujeaux

K&L: US$44.99

93 points James Suckling

Intense aromas of orange peel, blackberries and hints of mushrooms. Full body, with a solid core of soft and velvety tannins and a fruity finish. Well structured. One of the best wines from here in years. Try after 2017. (2/2012)

92 points Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

The final blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot and the rest Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot was cropped very low at 35 hectoliters per hectare. Deep purple, with a nose of subtle smoke, graphite, blueberry and black raspberry fruit as well as some spring flowers, in the mouth a touch of oak makes an appearance, but the wine is full-bodied, rich, inky and unctuously textured due to the high glycerin and alcohol that hits 14% plus. This beauty should drink well for up to two decades. (RP) (2/2012)

2013 La Salle de Poujeaux

Wine-searcher average price: US$15

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Tour with Dany Rolland: Château Le Bon Pasteur in Pomerol– Bordeaux Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Lunch at Château Le Bon Pasteur, Pomerol, with Dany Rolland and Benoit Prévot - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017, France

Tasting with Joël and Sandrine Duffau at Château La Mothe du Barry and Château Les Arromans in the Heart of the Entre-Deux-Mers Region - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017, France

Visiting and Tasting at Château Climens, with Owner Bérénice Lurton, Bordeaux, France

Lunch at Restaurant Claude Darroze, 1 Star Michelin, in Langon, with Jean-Charles Darroze - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Visit: Château de Chantegrive, Appellation Grave, with Owner Marie-Hélène Lévêque - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Schiller's Favorite Seafood Restaurants in Arcachon and Cap Ferret (Bassin d'Arcachon/ Bordeaux)

Visiting an Oyster Farm at Arcachon Bay, Bordeaux: Raphael Doerfler at Earl Ostrea Chanca - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Lunch at Pinasse Café, Cap Ferret - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

The 5 Premiers Grands Crus Chateaux en 1855 of Bordeaux, France

What is a Bordeaux Cru Bourgeois? France

Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Château Brane-Cantenac with Henri Luston, Owner - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Tour, Tasting and Lunch at Château Kirwan, Appellation Margaux, 3ième Grand Cru Classé, with Owner Natalie Schyler - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Visit and Tasting at Château Poujeaux, Appellation Moulis-en-Médoc, Cru Bourgeois, with Winemaker Christophe Labenne

How a Barrel is Made: Visit of the Cooperage Berger & Fils in Vertheuil, with General Manager Simon Grelier – Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Tour and Tasting at Château Lafon-Rochet with Owner Michel Tesseron – Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Tour and Tasting at Château Montrose, Appellation Saint-Estèphe, 2ième Grand Cru Classé

Tour, Barrel Tasting and Family Dinner at Château Le Reysse, Vignobles Paeffgen, Appellation Médoc, with Owner/ Winemaker Stefan Paeffgen 

Tour and Tasting at Château Léoville Poyferré, Saint-Julien, 2ième Grand Cru Classé, with Didier and Anne Cuvelier

Tour and Tasting at Château Pichon-Longueville Baron in Pauillac - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Lunch at Château Pichon-Longueville-Baron with Chef à Domicile Bernadet Damien - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Tour and Tasting at Château Beychevelle, Appellation Saint-Julien, 4ième Grand Cru Classé, with General Manager Philippe Blanc

Visit and Tasting: Château Smith-Haut-Lafitte, Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé– Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Tour and Lunch at Château Malartic-Lagravière, Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé

Tour and Wine Dinner at Château Haut-Bailly, Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France









New Year’s Eve at Château des Fines Roches in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, France

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Picture: Château des Fines Roches in Châteauneuf-du-Pape

We spent the last week of 2017 in France exploring the Rhône Valley for the first Rhône Valley Tour by ombiasy WineTours scheduled 2018. The Rhône Valley Tour 2018 by ombiasy WineTours will take place from October 15 to 24, 2018. It is already sold-out.

We started in Lyon shortly after Christmas and ended the trip in Châteauneuf-du-Pape on New Year's Day after a phantastic Menu du Sylvestre at the Hostellerie du Château des Fines Roches with the exceptional food of Chef Hugo Loridan-Fombonnet and the great wines of Château des Fines Roches.

In October, the tour will end similarly, with a night and a wine-pairing dinner at Château des Fines Roches.

See: Rhône Valley Tour December 2017: From Lyon to Avignon - Wine, Food, Culture, History

Pictures: Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Hostellerie du Château des Fines Roches

Hostellerie du Château des Fines Roches is a luxery hotel and restaurant in fairy tale castle that was built in the late 18002 by Auguste Constantin. In 1936, Louis Mousset bought the castle including 45 hectares of vineyards and made the property the centre of his extensive wine business and his family home. After the death of Louis Mousset his assets were divided among his three children, Jacques, Guy and Catherine.

The château remained in joint ownership of the Mousset family.

Since a decade or so it has been used as a 4 star Hotel with Restaurant, under the direction of Laurent and Martine Zennaro. They are lovely hosts.

We will stay at Hostellerie du Château des Fines Roches during our last night and will have a wine tasting dinner there, prepared by Chef Hugo Loridan-Fombonne.

Laurent and Martine Zennaro - A Fairy Tale Castle: You will enjoy a unique stay in this atypical castle. Both fantasy and medieval neo Provencal style, built high on a hill surrounded by vineyards. Our **** hotel enjoys exceptional views of the Papal Palace and the Alpilles, offering timeless moments to rest and relax.

Pictures: Hostellerie du Château des Fines Roches

The Fork: Venez goûter à la véritable vie de château. Entourée de vignes et à deux pas du palais des Papes, cette noble demeure vous offre plusieurs ambiances : une terrasse avec une vue exceptionnelle, l’intimité des petits salons comme la bibliothèque ou encore la grande salle et sa belle cheminée. Dans un magnifique cadre où la nature est reine, vous savourez ici une cuisine gastronomique qui met en avant les produits régionaux. La carte s’ouvre même sur la route des épices. Arrosés de vins somptueux de Châteauneuf-du-Pape, les mets sont fins et raffinés. A déguster le duo d'agneau rôti au thym et sa bohémienne de légumes à la brousse de brebis dans son jus parfumé à l'ail.

Winemaking: Château des Fines Roches and Many Other Mousset Family Wines

Today there are three branches of the Mousset family in Châteauneuf-du-Pape who can thank their common grandfather, Louis Mousset, for their status as major landowner and winemaker in Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

Picture: Château des Fines Roches

First, Jacques Mousset inherited from his father the negociant firm and some estates, but sold off the negociant firm to Cellier des Dauphins in 1996. Today the Mousset family has nothing to do with this firm any more.

Jacques Mousset has retired and his three sons now run his estates. Yann Mousset owns together with his brother Fabrice Domaine de Tout Vent (25 hectares Côte du Rhône). He also runs the wine shop at the Château des Fines Roches. Fabrice Mousset runs Domaine Fabrice Mousset (10 hectares Chateauneuf du Pape) and together with Yann Mousset Domaine de Tout Vent (25 hectares Côte du Rhône). Cyril Mousset runs Domaine de la Font du Roi (24 hectares Châteauneuf du Pape).

Second, Guy Mousset's sons Olivier and Frank Mousset own Clos Saint Michel (15 hectares Châteauneuf du Pape and 12 hectares Côte du Rhône). Frank Mousset has furthermore his own small estate, Domaine des Saumades (2,5 hectares Châteauneuf du Pape).

Third, Catherine, the youngest child of Louis Mousset, married Robert Barrot and today they own Vignobles Mousset-Barrot consisting of three properties: Château des Fines Roches (53 hectares Châteauneuf du Pape), Château du Bois de la Garde (63 hectares Côte du Rhône) and, purchased in 2003, Château Jas de Bressy (4,5 hectares Châteauneuf du Pape). Catherine and Robert's children Amélie Barrot and Gaelle Barrot are now in charge of these 3 estates.

 Picture: Vignobles Mousset-Barrot

Pictures: With Yann Mousset at the Wine Shop at the Château des Fines Roches

The wines of Clos Saint Michel are made at the cellars of Clos Saint Michel. All other wines of the Mousset family are vinified and aged in the cellars of Château des Fines Roches - separately for each domain.

New Year's Eve Dinner at Hostellerie du Château des Fines Roches

The dinner was prepared by outgoing Chef Nicolas Jay and incoming Chef Hugo Loridan-Fombonnet, who used to be Nicolas Jay's Deputy for many years. When we come back later this year, Nicolas Jay will have left and Hugo Loridan-Fombonnet will have taken over as Executive Chef.

Menu at 135€ per person
Gerald Bataille Jazz Band


Cocktail offered with our Amuses Bouche of the new year’s eve


Mise en Bouche: Langoustine in Green, Lime Emulsion


Starter: Lasagnes of Cheek of Beef and Duck Foie Gras


Fish: Roast Turbot, Potatoes from Noirmoutier, Hazelnut Oil, Caviar of Herring


Meat: Free Range Capon from Mas de la Gabelle, the Breast Cooked in Bouillon and the Leg with Morels


Our Selection of Cheese from Josiane DEAL (MOF)


Pré-Dessert: Chestnut and Blackcurrent as a Tiramisu


Dessert: Parfait Cake Chocolate Mandarin


Mignardises


Chef Hugo Loridan-Fombonnet and his Team


schiller-wine: Related Postings

Ombiasy Wine Tours 2018: 3 x France and 3 x Germany - Ombiasy Newsletter December 2017

Rhône Valley Tour December 2017: From Lyon to Avignon - Wine, Food, Culture, History

Tour and Tasting at Weingut Wachstetter in Pfaffenhofen, Württemberg, with Rainer Wachtstetter – Germany-East Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

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Picture: Tour and Tasting at Weingut Wachstetter in Pfaffenhofen, Württemberg, with Rainer Wachtstetter

We had an excellent wine tasting at Weingut Wachstetter with Rainer Wachtstetter and his wife Annette as well as father Roland Wachstetter.

Pictures: Arriving at Weingut Wachstetter in Pfaffenhofen, Württemberg

Weingut Wachtstetter

Weingut Wachtstetter is in Pfaffenberg, right in the middle of the village. It is a traditional family operation, with 3 generations living under one roof and working together. Weingut Wachtstetter is in particular known for its premium Lembergers (known as Blaufränkisch in Austria and Kékfrankos in its Hungarian homeland).

Today, Rainer Wachtstetter is at the helm of Weingut Wachtstetter. He owns and runs the winery now in the 4th generation. It all started with Karl and Ernst Combé, the great-grandfather and the grandfather of Rainer. In particular Ernst left a strong impression on Rainer, which explains why one the Wachstetter product lines is called Ernst Combé line.

In 1979, Ernst Combé - with his son-in-law Roland and daughter Anni – decided to move their wine production by beginning to bottle and sell directly the wine. When Rainer Wachtstetter joint in 1987 the family winery at the age of 19, it was clear that he would push on in that direction. Indeed, since then, the vineyard area has expanded from 3 to 17 hectares and Weingut Wachtstetter has become one of the best red wine producers in Wuerttemberg, if not in Germany.

Pictures: Rainer, Annette and Roland Wachstetter, with Annette and Christian Schiller

Rainer Wachtstetter

Rainer Wachtstetter is in charge of winemaking today. He has a degree of Weinbautechniker. His wife Annette looks after sales and the accounts, father Roland and mother Anni continue to help. Rainer and Annette have 3 children, Felix, Louis und Anna; Felix helped when we were there.

Rainer Wachtstetter is a founding member of the winemaker group Junges Schwaben; the group was awarded the ArtVinum Prize in 2010 as Europe’s Best Up-and-coming Winemakers. In 2009, Rainer Wachtstetter became a member of the VdP, the association of German elite winemakers.

Lemberger and Other Grape Varieties

The specialty of Weingut Wachtstetter is the Lemberger. Rainer Wachtstetter devotes 35% of the vineyard area to this grape variety. He definitely has become one of the best Lemberger producers in Württemberg.

Stuart Pigott: “Yes, I know that you’re probably asking yourselves who the hell Rainer Wachtstetter is and if a red wine from Württemberg can really be worth recommending this highly, but this is a rare bargain amongst „serious“ red wines. Wachtstetter has been perfecting the making of red wines from the Lemberger grape for over a decade and the result is this medium-bodied, supply tannic dry wine with a wonderful bouquet in which elderberry, plum, baking spices and something floral mingle. Where’s my glass?”

Besides Lemberger and (of course) Trollinger, Rainer Wachtstetter also makes Pinot Noir, Samtrot and Dornfelder. Rainer Wachtstetter is not only a specialist in red wines, but also makes excellent white wines, including Riesling.

Pictures: Starting with a Wachtstetter Sekt

Classification

Of course, as a member of the VDP, Weingut Wachtstetter is following the new VDP classification. But you can still find elements of the old Weingut Wachtstetter classification. Rainer Wachtstetter has devoted a series of Riesling, Spätburgunder and Lemberger at the middle level to his 3 children Anna, Louis und Felix. The Ernst Combé series with red wines fermented and aged in barrique represents ultr-premium wines. The Grosses Gewaechs from the Grosse Lage Pfaffenhofener Hohenberg ( Riesling and Lemberger) represent ultra-premium dry wines.

Pictures: In the Cellar of  Weingut Wachstetter in Pfaffenhofen, Württemberg

Rainer Wachtstetter's Winemaking Philosophy

“My Goal is to produce wines that are strongly expressive, that impact the palate along with complex, intense aroma profiles and inherent power and minerality. I want to achieve the potential of our vineyards that are up to 60% steep through sustainable care, to preserve the health and preservation of our soil using only organic fertilizer along with targeted efforts to achieve green areas while working as close to nature as possible.

To work with low yields with efforts to create the appropriate leaf surface in the plants always searching for an ideal harvest date while selecting fruit as perfect as possible with two to three passes through the vineyards. It is basic to produce wines with character.

In the cellar we use the gravity principle to treat grapes, must and wine. We work as gentle as possible. No pumping! Our red wines go through classic maceration and are predominantly matured in wood. Top quality reds spend 12-24 months in barrique. The very best wines are bottled without fining and filtration.

Our white wines are also treated with great care. We use gentle whole cluster pressing, maceration and fermentation that more and more involve indigenous yeast followed by very long contact on the fine lees.”

Pictures: Tasting with Rainer Wachtstetter

VDP: Weingut Wachtstetter

Wachtstetter is a member of the VDP, the association of about 200 elite winemakers in Germany.

The Wachtstetter family have cultivated vines for generations. In 1980, grandfather Ernst Combé and father Roland Wachtstetter began to market their wines directly. Rainer Wachtstetter has been responsible for the estate since 1990. With his wife Anette, he took full charge in 2003. The vineyards are exclusively on the steep, south-facing slopes of the Heuchelberg near Pfaffenhofen. Mineral-rich gypsum keuper and reed sandstone soils lend the wines their special character. The red wines age several months in oak casks and are usually bottled unfiltered. Stainless steel tanks are preferred for Riesling and Gewürztraminer, while Pinot Gris undergoes a cool fermentation in oak. His goal is to produce unadorned wines that are unmistakable and authentic.

Owner: Rainer Wachtstetter
Winemaker: Rainer Wachtstetter
VDP member since 2009
Bottle production 115 000
Grape varieties 30% Lemberger, 22% Riesling, 15% Trollinger, 15% Spätburgunder, Samtrot, Grauburgunder, Weissburgunder, Gewürztraminer
Geology: Gipskeuper & Schilfsandstein
Württemberg
Memberships: Slow Food, Junges Schwaben, VDP

The Wines we Tasted

2015 Weingut Wachtstetter Lemberger Sekt brut
2015 Weingut Wachtstetter Lemberger blanc de noir trocken


2015 Weingut Wachtstetter Pfaffenhofen Anna Riesling trocken
2015 Weingut Wachtstetter Pfaffenhofen VDP.Grosse Lage Glaukós Riesling GG trocken


2016 Weingut Wachtstetter Rosé trocken VDP.Gutswein
2015 Weingut Wachtstetter Trollinger Steillage trocken VDP.Gutswein
2015 Weingut Wachtstetter Pfaffenhofen Spätburgunder trocken
2015 Weingut Wachtstetter Pfaffenhofen VDP.Erste Lage Samtrot trocken


2015 Weingut Wachtstetter Pfaffenhofen Felix Lemberger trocken
2015 Weingut Wachtstetter Lemberger blanc de noir trocken
2014 Weingut Wachtstetter Pfaffenhofen Hohenberg VDP.Grosse Lage Glaukós Lemberger GG trocken



Bye-bye

Thanks for a great tasting.

Picture: Bye-bye

Postings: Germany-East Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours: Wine, Art, Culture and History (Published and Forthcoming Postings)

Germany-East Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours: Wine, Art, Culture and History

Wine Tasting Lunch at Weingut Frölich-Hake in Naumburg-Rossbach, Saale-Unstrut, Germany, with Sandra Hake – Germany-East Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Weingut Pawis in the Saale Unstrut Region: Tour and Wine Tasting with Marcus Pawis – Germany-East Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Tasting at Weingut Uwe Lützkendorf, with Uwe Lützkendorf, in Bad Kösen, Saale-Unstrut– Germany-East Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Schiller's Favorite Winemakers in the Saale Unstrut Region, Germany

Wine and Music:"Martin Luther Lunch" at the Historic Vincenz Richter Restaurant, Weingut Vincenz Richter, in Meissen with Senior Boss Gottfried Herrlich and the Music of Bach, Mozart and Beethoven – Germany-East Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Visit of Weingut Klaus Zimmerling: The Wines of Klaus Zimmerling and the Art of his Wife Malgorzata Chodakoska - Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Wine and Opera in Dresden: Mozart at Semper Opera and the Best Wines of Sachsen at Wine Bar Weinzentrale in Dresden-Neustadt, with Owner/ Sommelier Jens Pietzonka – Germany-East Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Dresden is the New Unlikely Place for Fine Barolo Wine: Weingut Martin Schwarz– Germany-East Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Tour and Dinner at Weingut Schloss Proschwitz - Prinz zur Lippe in Zadel, Sachsen, with Georg Prinz zur Lippe - Germany-East Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Schiller's Favorite Winemakers in Sachsen (Saxony), Germany

Vinyard Tour and Tasting at Weingut Horst Sauer in Eschendorf, Franken, with Horst Sauer - Germany-East Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Fürstlich Castell’sches Domänenamt in Castell, Franken, with General Manager and Winemaker Björn Probst - Germany-East Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Lunch with Christian L. Stahl, Winzerhof Stahl, Franken: Not only a Gifted Winemaker but also a Gifted Chef - Germany-East Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Tour and Tasting at the Historic Weingut Juliusspital in Würzburg, Franken– Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Schiller’s Favorites: 2 Legendary Wine Taverns in Würzburg – Juliusspital and Bürgerspital

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Taverns in Würzburg

Cellar Visit and Tasting at Weingut Fürst Hohenlohe Öhringen in Öhringen–Verrenberg, Württemberg, with General Manager and Winemaker Joachim Brand - Germany-East Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours


Tour and Tasting at Weingut Wachstetter in Pfaffenhofen, Württemberg, with Rainer Wachtstetter

Lunch at Restaurant Schloss Monrepos Ludwigsburg, Württemberg, with Chef Ben Benasr (1 Star Michelin)

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Herzog von Württemberg at Schloss Monrepos with Owner Duke Michael of Württemberg and Winemaker Moriz Just – Germany-East Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Cellar Tour, Tasting and Dinner with Kilian Graf von Bentzel-Sturmfeder, Weingut Graf von Bentzel-Sturmfeder in Schozach, Württemberg - Germany-East Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours
 

Top 100 German Wines of 2017 - Stuart Pigott/ James Suckling.com

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Picture: Egon Müller and Annette Schiller in New York City at the 2018 Rieslingfeier. See: Rieslingfeier 2018 in New York City: Gränd Tasting and Gala Dinner

A few weeks ago, Stuart Pigott, a leading German wine writer and Contributing Editor/ JamesSuckling.com, issued a list of the "Top 100 German Wines of 2017", including some introductory remarks. Not surprisingly, at the top half of the list is dominated by noble-sweet wines that are well-known around the world, from Egon Müller, J.J. Prüm, Dönnhoff and others. Interestingly, there are also a significant number of ultra-premium dry wines on Stuart Pigott's Top 100 list. These wines are increasingly appreciated by dry white wine lovers around the world. Finally, you also find a number of red wines on the list, which would have been unthinkably say 20 or 30 years ago.

Stuart Pigott

Stuart Pigott, born in the UK, was Berlin-based for more than 20 years. During this period, he emerged as the leading German wine writer, mostly writing in German, and focusing on German wine. Notably, since 2001, he’s been the wine columnist for the Frankfurter Allgemeine Zeitung (Germany’s equivalent of the New York Times or the South China Morning Post), and he’s even filmed three series for the acclaimed TV show Wine Wonder Germany for the public broadcast channel of Bavaria.

Picture: Stuart Pigott and Christian G.E. Schiller in Washington DC

A few years ago, Stuart Pigott started to spend a lot of time in New York City, turning his attention to the global world of Riesling. His first major output of the move to New York City was a major book about Riesling in the world, which was published in June 2014: The Best White Wine on Earth: The Riesling Story.

Since 2016, Stuart is back in Germany, in the Frankfurt Area.

He also joined JamesSuckling.com as a contributing editor. He is in charge of the wines of Germany and Austria as well as the East Coast of the United States.

See also:
Best Wine Bars: On the Heels of Stuart Pigott in New York 
Late Night German Riesling Tasting with Riesling Gurus Paul Grieco and Stuart Pigott in Washington DC on the 2013 Riesling Road Trip, USA
Tasting the Best of Virginia Wines in Frankfurt, Germany, with Stuart Pigott: Virginia Governor's Cup Case 2016

Picture: Tasting with Stuart Pigott in Frankfurt, Germany. See: Tasting the Best of Virginia Wines in Frankfurt, Germany, with Stuart Pigott: Virginia Governor's Cup Case 2016

In early December, Stuart Pigott releases a list of his favorite wines and winemakers of the year in the Frankfurter Allgemeine Sonntagszeitung.

For last years' lists, see:
Best German Wines and Winemakers – Stuart Pigott’s Favorites (December 2017)
Best German Wines and Winemakers – Stuart Pigott’s Favorites (December 2016)
Germany’s Best Wines and Winemakers – Stuart Pigott’s Favorites (December 2015)
Best German Wines and Winemakers – Stuart Pigott’s Favorites (December 2014)
Best German Wines and Winemakers – Stuart Pigott’s Favorites (December 2013)
Best German Wines and Winemakers – Stuart Pigott’s Favorites (2012)
Best German Wine and Winemakers – Stuart Pigott’s Favorites (2011)

Picture: Stuart Pigott and Annette Schiller, ombiasyPR and WineTours, at the 2014 International Riesling Symposium, Germany, see: The 2nd International Riesling Symposium in the Rheingau, Germany

Stuart Pigott: Top 100 German Wines of 2017

Stuart Pigott on JamesSuckling.com(Thursday, December 14, 2017): "This was a great year for German wines thanks to the excellence of the 2015 and 2016 vintages and their complimentary personalities. Those looking for crispness, elegance and subtlety of aroma in dry and off-dry whites are ideally served by the 2016 vintage. Those looking for more power and richness in dry and sweet whites than what is traditionally associated with German whites need look no further than 2015. This combination is fully reflected in our ranking of the Top 100 German Wines of 2017, which includes some of the best wines on earth from the Auslese designations but also many modestly priced and widely available wines, particularly those that fall in the Spätlese category.

The top five wines all rated 100 points and perfectly embody the characteristics that make German Auslese, Beerenauslese (BA) and Trockenbeerenauslese (TBA) dessert wines from the riesling grape unique on Planet Wine. Although they are all tremendously concentrated with a honeyed sweetness, they are also low in alcohol and thanks to their high natural acidity have enormous energy and vitality. However, by no means is every German riesling Auslese, BA or TBA worthy of such an elevated rating, as those who followed our reports on Germany this year already know. What makes this handful of masterpieces so spectacular is their complexity and finesse, rather than sheer density or opulence.

We can’t imagine a more perfect expression of all these qualities than the Egon Müller-Scharzhof Scharzhofberger Riesling Mosel Trockenbeerenauslese 2015 from Wiltingen, our German Wine of the Year 2017. It has yet to be sold and is almost certainly destined for one of the auctions of the German VDP association of producers. Expect the price to top US$10,000 per bottle as collectors around the globe fight over the tiny production. Like his father before him, Egon Müller IV is one of the world’s established masters of sweet and dessert winemaking, something underlined by the fact that two other wines of his placed at No. 7 and No. 18.

The situation is rather similar for our No.3 in the list, the Dönnhoff Hermannshöhle Riesling Nahe Trockenbeerenauslese 2015 from Oberhausen, and our No.4 wine, the Maximin Grünhaus (von Schubert) Abtsberg Riesling Mosel Beerenauslese 2015 from Mertesdorf. These are also producers with long track records of producing spectacular riesling dessert wines. Decades of refining selective-harvesting and winemaking techniques lie behind them, and for this reason these results aren’t terribly surprising. In spite of that, we congratulate them on these achievements, because, as they well know, a great reputation is no substitute for determination and attention to detail.

This situation makes the success of the producers behind the No. 2 and No.5 wines, Carl Loewen in Leiwen, Mosel and Prinz in Hallgarten, Rheingau all the more astonishing, because they are rising stars and internationally these names are still only known to insiders. In addition to that, just a generation ago many experts looked down on these vineyard sites considering them incapable of producing first-class riesling wines! That didn’t stop the Maximiner Herrenberg Riesling Mosel Beerenauslese 2015 from father and son team Karl Josef and Christopher Loewen and the Jungfer Riesling Rheingau Auslese Gold Cap 2015 from Fred Prinz getting 100 points. Look down through the Top 100 and you will find other examples of this such in the form of producers such as Harald Hexamer, Jakob Schneider and K.H. Schneider — all from the Nahe region.

Not all German sweet wines have this kind of massive body and power. The riesling Spätlese category is the zone where concentration is married to a delicacy in a way that’s virtually unique in the world of wine. The best example of this we found was the breathtakingly vivid and intensely mineral Emrich-Schönleber Halenberg Riesling Spätlese 2016, which we rated 98 points and placed at No. 32. It’s here where no doubt some real comparatively good-value wines can be found, and a significant number of these are included in our Top 100 list.

Arguably, the most startling results in this Top 100 list are in the field of dry white wines. Turn the clock back 20 plus years, and any ranking like this would have been dominated by sweet rieslings with only a few dry wines at the bottom end. Things were already slowly changing then, and by a decade ago, many good to excellent dry rieslings were being made in Germany. However, the leading producers have continued making improvements in grape growing and winemaking and kept pushing the quality envelope. We were repeatedly stunned by the combination of concentration, intense minerality and impeccable balance of the best dry German rieslings we tasted this year. If 2015 is clearly the superior vintage in Germany for dessert wines, then the number of exciting dry wines from 2016 is considerably greater than in 2015.

Top of this group was our No. 9 wine, the Schäfer-Fröhlich Riesling Nahe Felseneck GG 2016 in Bockenau. Tim Fröhlich has been making exciting dry rieslings with mind-blowing mineral intensity for many years, but sometimes they were a bit too wild in their youth (it would often take a year or two of bottle age for the reduction to blow off). In 2016, Fröhlich’s dry rieslings are just wild enough and the 2016 Felseneck GG is literally breathtaking as a result.

Anyone who doubts that Germany can produce sensational dry whites should taste the abovementioned wine or one of the many other GGs that found a place in the Top 100. Here, the achievement of Keller in Flörsheim-Dalsheim, Rheinhessen, deserves a special mention, since three of Klaus Peter Keller’s dry rieslings placed as No. 20, No. 23 and No.29. The 2016 is probably the best vintage ever from this new star of dry German wine. Quantities of the dry wines are usually considerably greater than for the dessert wines.

Lastly, the appearance of a handful of red wines in the Top 100 for Germany, most prominently the sensational Heydenreich GG 2013, a spätburgunder (pinot noir) from Friedrich Becker in Schweigen, Pfalz, which comes in as No. 39 with 97 points, will come as a revelation to many. Germany has the third largest area in the world planted to this grape, and thanks to global warming, it now has a climate ideally suited to it. Watch this space!"– Stuart Pigott, Contributing Editor

Stuart Pigott's Top 100 German Wines

1 Egon Müller-Scharzhof Riesling Mosel Scharzhofberger Trockenbeerenauslese 2015
2 Carl Loewen Riesling Mosel Maximin Herrenberg Beerenauslese 2015
3 Dönnhoff Riesling Nahe Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Trockenbeerenauslese 2015
4 Maximin Grünhaus (von Schubert) Riesling Mosel Abtsberg Beerenauslese 2015
5 Prinz Riesling Rheingau Jungfer Auslese Gold Cap 2015
6 Joh. Jos. Prum Riesling Mosel Graacher Himmelreich Trockenbeerenauslese 2005
7 Egon Müller-Scharzhof Riesling Mosel Scharzhofberger Beerenauslese 2015
8 Robert Weil Riesling Rheingau Kiedrich Gräfenberg Trockenbeerenauslese 2016
9 Schäfer-Fröhlich Riesling Nahe Felseneck GG 2016
10 Schloss Johannisberg Riesling Rheingau Goldlack Trockenbeerenauslese 2015

Picture: Annette Schiller and Egon Müller. See: The Annual "Slaughterhouse" Riesling Feast in New York: Rieslingfeier 2017, USA

11 Emrich-Schönleber Riesling Nahe Halenberg Trockenbeerenauslese 2015
12 Müller-Catoir Rieslaner Pfalz Herzog Trockenbeerenauslese 2016
13 Joh. Jos. Prum Riesling Mosel Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese Long Gold Cap 2015
14 Robert Weil Riesling Rheingau Kiedrich Gräfenberg Beerenauslese Gold Cap 2016
15 Hexamer Riesling Nahe Sobernheimer Domberg Eiswein No. 1 2016
16 Gunderloch Riesling Rheinhessen Rothenberg Trockenbeerenauslese 2015
17 Willi Schaefer Riesling Mosel Graacher Domprobst Beerenauslese 2015
18 Egon Müller-Scharzhof Riesling Mosel Scharzhofberger Auslese Gold Cap (Auction) 2015
19 Keller Riesling Rheinhessen Brünnenhäuschen Abts E GG 2016
20 Wittmann Riesling Rheinhessen Morstein GG 2016

Picture: Annette Schiller and Christian Schiller with Philipp Wittmann and Eva Clüsserath-Wittmann at Prowein 2015. See: Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Philipp Wittmann and Eva Clüsserath-Wittmann at Weingut Wittmann in Westhofen – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2014)

21 Keller Riesling Rheinhessen G-Max 2016
22 Wagner-Stempel Riesling Rheinhessen EMT 2016
23 Künstler Riesling Rheingau Kirchenstück GG 2016
24 Maximin Grünhaus (von Schubert) Riesling Mosel Herrenberg Auslese (Auction) 2016
25 Robert Weil Riesling Rheingau Kiedrich Gräfenberg Beerenauslese 2016
26 Von Schubert Riesling Mosel Abtsberg GG 2016
27 Dönnhoff Riesling Nahe Oberhäuser Brücke Auslese Gold Cap 2016
28 Keller Riesling Rheinhessen Hipping Grosse Lage 2016
29 Emrich-Schönleber Riesling Nahe Halenberg GG 2016
30 Müller-Catoir Rieslaner Pfalz Herzog Beerenauslese 2016

Pictures: Christian and Annette Schiller with Wilhelm Weil at Weingut Robert Weil in Kiedrich. See: Visit of the Basilica of Saint Valentine and of Weingut Robert Weil - Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

31 K.H. Schneider Riesling Nahe Felsenberg Trockenbeerenauslese 2015
32 Emrich-Schönleber Riesling Nahe Halenberg Spätlese 2016
33 Dr. Loosen Riesling Mosel Erdener Prälat GG Reserve 2012
34 Hexamer Riesling Nahe Meddersheimer Rheingrafenberg Trockenbeerenauslese No. 1 2015
35 Wagner-Stempel Riesling Rheinhessen Heerkretz GG 2016
36 Peter Lauer Riesling Mosel Schonfels GG 2016
37 Wittmann Riesling Rheinhessen Kirchspiel GG 2016
38 J.B. Becker Riesling Rheingau Wallufer Walkenberg Rieslng Auslese Trocken 2015
39 Friedrich Becker Spätburgunder Pfalz Heydenreich GG 2013
40 Markus Molitor Riesling Mosel Saarburger Rausch Beerenauslese (Gold Cap) 2015

Pictures: Ernst Loosen and Annette and Christian Schiller in Washington DC. See: The Dry and Ultra-premium Dry GG and GG Reserve Rieslings of Weingut Dr. Loosen – Ernie Loosen in Washington DC

41 Dönnhoff Riesling Nahe Hermannshöhle GG 2016
42 Gut Hermannsberg Riesling Nahe Kupfergrube GG 2015
43 Leitz Riesling Rheingau Berg Kaisersteinfels GG 2016
44 von Oetinger Riesling Rheingau Siegelsberg Trockenbeerenauslese 2015
45 Schäfer-Fröhlich Riesling Nahe Halenberg GG 2016
46 Wittmann Riesling Rheinhessen Brunnenhäuschen GG 2016
47 Winter Riesling Rheinhessen Geiersberg GG 2016
48 Willi Schaefer Riesling Mosel Graacher Domprobst Auslese (Auction) 2015
49 Künstler Riesling Rheingau Hölle GG 2016
50 Wegeler Riesling Rheingau Rothenberg Trockenbeerenauslese 2016

Pictures: At Weingut Schäfer-Fröhlich in Bockenau - Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential German Riesling and the Northernmost Pinot Noir

51 Hexamer Riesling Nahe Meddersheimer Rheingrafenberg Trockenbeerenauslese 2015
52 Nik Weis (St. Urbans-Hof) Riesling Mosel Laurentiuslay Trockenbeerenauslese 2015
53 Nik Weis (St. Urbans-Hof) Riesling Mosel Bockstein Trockenbeerenauslese 2015
54 Schloss Johannisberg Riesling Rheingau Rosalack Auslese 2016
55 Markus Molitor Riesling Mosel Erdener Treppchen Auslese *** (Gold Cap) 2015
56 Markus Molitor Riesling Mosel Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Auslese *** (Gold Cap) 2015
57 Jakob Schneider Riesling Nahe Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Beerenauslese 2015
58 Emrich-Schönleber Riesling Nahe Halenberg Auslese 2015
59 Prinz Riesling Rheingau Schönhell GG 2016
60 K.H. Schneider Riesling Nahe Felsenberg Auslese 2015

Picture: Nik and Daniela Weis and Annette and Christian Schiller at Prowein 2014

Picture: Tasting at Weingut St. Urbans-Hof in Leiwen, Mosel, with Nik Weis – Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

61 Prinz Riesling Rheingau Jungfer Auslese 2015
62 J.B. Becker Riesling Rheingau Wallufer Walkenberg Auslese Trocken 2015
63 Koehler-Ruprecht Riesling Pfalz Kallstadter Saumagen Spätlese Trocken R 2015
64 Koehler-Ruprecht Riesling Pfalz Kallstadter Saumagen Beerenauslese 2015
65 Schätzel Riesling Rheinhessen Pettenthal Auslese 2015
66 Dr. Loosen Riesling Mosel Erdener Prälat Auslese Gold Cap 2015
67 Carl Loewen Riesling Mosel 1896 (Gray Label) 2016
68 Peter Lauer Riesling Mosel Saarfeilser Spätlese 2016
69 Kühling-Gillot Riesling Rheinhessen Rothenberg GG Wurzelecht 2016
70 Dr. Loosen Riesling Mosel Prälat GG 2016

Pictures: Tasting at Weingut J.B. Becker. See: Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential German Riesling and the Northernmost Pinot Noir

71 Leitz Riesling Rheingau Berg Schlossberg GG 2016
72 Gut Hermannsberg Riesling Nahe Hermannsberg GG 2015
73 Willi Schaefer Riesling Mosel Domprobst Spätlese (Auction) 2015
74 Knipser Spätburgunder Pfalz RdP 2013
75 Vollenweider Riesling Mosel Wolfer Goldgrube Auslese Gold Cap 2015
76 Schlossgut Diel Riesling Nahe Pittermännchen GG 2016
77 Thörle Spätburgunder Rheinhessen Hölle 2015
78 Joh. Jos. Prum Riesling Mosel Wehlener Sonnenuhr Spätlese (Auction) 2015
79 Carl Loewen Riesling Mosel Laurentiuslay Spätlese 2016
80 Christmann Riesling Pfalz Idig GG 2016

Pictures: With Johannes Leitz at Weingut Leitz. See: Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Leitz in Rüdesheim, with Johannes Leitz – Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

81 Eva Fricke Riesling Rheingau Krone 2016
82 von Oetinger Riesling Rheingau Marcobrunn GG 2016
83 Künstler Spätburgunder Rheingau Höllenberg GG 2015
84 Julian Haart Riesling Mosel Schubertslay Spätlese 2016
85 Schätzel Riesling Rheinhessen Pettenthal GG 2015
86 Thörle Riesling Rheinhessen Schlossberg trocken 2016
87 Winter Riesling Rheinhessen Leckerberg GG 2016
88 Heymann-Löwenstein Riesling Mosel Uhlen Laubach GG 2016
89 Jakob Schneider Riesling Nahe Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Magnus Trocken 2015
90 Schlossgut Diel Riesling Nahe Goldloch GG 2016

Picture: The Table of Hannsjörg Rebholz, Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz, Pfalz, at the Gala Dinner of the Rieslingfeier 2016 in New York City, with Annette Schiller, David Schildknecht and Hannsjörg Rebholz. See: A German Riesling Feast in New York City: Rieslingfeier 2016, USA

91 Dr. Wehrheim Riesling Pfalz Kastanienbusch GG 2016
92 Dr. Crusius Riesling Nahe Bastei GG 2016
93 Ökonomierat Rebholz Sparkling Pfalz Pi No Sekt Extra Brut (black label) 2008
94 Korrell Riesling Nahe Paradies Trocken 2016
95 Dr. von Bassermann-Jordan Riesling Pfalz Kirchenstück GG 2016
96 Bergdolt Weissburgunder Pfalz Mandelberg GG 2016
97 Ökonomierat Rebholz Riesling Pfalz Kastanienbusch GG 2016
98 Pfeffingen Riesling Pfalz Herrenberg GG 2016
99 Reichsrat von Buhl Riesling Pfalz Pechstein GG 2016
100 Christmann Spätburgunder Pfalz Idig GG 2014

Picture: Harvest at Weingut A. Christmann, with Steffen Christmann. See: Winery Tour and Wine Tasting at Weingut A. Christmann, with Steffen Christmann– Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2014)

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Wine Pairing Lunch at Restaurant Landgasthof Zur Traube in Meddersheim, Nahe, with Petra Hexamer and the Wines of Weingut Hexamer - Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

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Picture: Wine Pairing Lunch at Restaurant Landgasthof Zur Traube in Meddersheim, Nahe with Petra Hexamer and the Wines of Weingut Hexamer

Following the tasting with Frank Schönleber, Weingut Emmrich-Schönleber (See: Tasting at Weingut Emrich-Schönleber in Monzingen, Nahe, with Owner/ Winemaker Frank Schönleber - Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours), we drove over to Meddersheim for a wine-pairing lunch with Petra Hexamer, Weingut Hexamer, at Landgasthof Zur Traube.

Pictures: Weingut Hexamer and Landgasthof Zur Traube in Meddersheim

Landgasthof Zur Traube

This restaurant is a hidden gem in the Nahe valley. For more than a decade Chef Herbert Langendorf was a one Michelin star chef with the Ente vom Lehel in Wiesbaden. In 1998 he and his wife Ingrid opened the Landgasthof Zur Traube in Meddersheim.

Pictures: The Days of the Ente vom Lehel

Weingut Hexamer

Weingut Hexamer is just across the street. In the US, it is in the Skurnik/ Terry Theise Portfolio.

Weingut Hexamer is a family-owned and run winery in Meddersheim in the Nahe region. The vineyard area totals 23 hectares in Meddersheim, Schlossböckelheim and Sobernheim. The family name, Hexamer, dates back centuries in Germany and has a history of winemaking; however, it was not until the late 1990’s when the Hexamer family began producing commercially, i.e. when Harald Hexamer and his wife Petra took over.

Riesling accounts for 60 percent and Weißburgunder, Grauburgunder, Frühburgunder, Müller-Thurgau and Spätburgunder for most of the remainder.

Pictures: Welcome

Weingut Hexamer in the Terry Theise/ Skurnik Portfolio

In the US, Weingut Hexamer is relatively well known among the friends of German wine. It has a bit the reputation of producing “Dönnhoff wines at much lower prices”.

Terry Theise: Harald Hexamer’s dedication is seen both in his work in the vineyards and in the cellars. Hexamer holds 7.5 hectares in the Meddersheimer Rheingrafenberg, a steep south-east facing slope of red sandstone with deposits of quartzite, which is known for producing especially small berries. Hexamer often harvests riper grapes from another site (Marbach) but the wines of Rheingrafenberg grapes are “more filigree and better-structured.” Schlossböckelheimer In den Felsen (“In the Rocks”) is a small vineyard at 6.5 hectares, of which the Hexamer’s own 4.5. The vineyard is markedly steep (70º) with south facing slopes composed of rocky porphyry and produces wines characterized by softer acidity and a subtle smokiness.

Pictures: Wine Pairing Lunch at Restaurant Landgasthof Zur Traube in Meddersheim, Nahe with Petra Hexamer and the Wines of Weingut Hexamer

Hexamer’s meticulous work in the vineyard is marked by pruning to control yields (“often six to eight bunches per wine”) and hand-harvesting. The grapes are picked exclusively by hand and fermented very cold (below 12 degrees celsius) with cooling utilized only when necessary – “but we often pick so late we bring naturally cold fruit — below 10 degrees — back to the winery.”

Hexamer handles the wine as little as possible: no dosage is used, inoculations are made only with native yeasts, and all wines are whole-cluster pressed. 95% of all Rieslings at Hexamer are made in stainless steel and racked only once, three to six weeks after fermentation is complete. The wines are bottled early to preserve their vigor. For the Burgundian varieties, Harald constructed his own barrels in Meddersheim using oak from the Hunsrück forest seasoned for 5 years. When tasting the wines, one sees the purity of the vineyards, the intensity of minerality and remarkable clarity. Hexamer’s wines are balanced in the ultraviolet spectrum; they’re steely, acid-driven, clean and transparent.

The Wine Pairing Menu


2016 Weingut Hexamer Riesling "Eisendell"


Fjordforelle mit Sesam-Kürbiskern Kruste
Pfifferlinge in Rahm
Feine Nudeln
Hummerschaum


2015 Weingut Hexamer Weissburgunder "Herbstfüllung"
2015 Weingut Hexamer Riesling No. 1 Meddersheimer Rheingrafenberg


Entenbrust und Rinderbäckchen
mit zwei Sossen
Feine Bohnen
Rissolées
Kartoffeln


2012 Weingut Hexamer Frühburgunder
2015 Weingut Hexamer "Porphyr"


Büffel Camembert


2005 Weingut Hexamer Riesling Spätlese halbtrocken
2016 Weingut Hexamer Riesling Auslese "-6 Grad Celsiuc" Sobernheimer Domberg


Thanks

Thanks Ingrid Langedorf for the great service, Chef Herbert Langendorf for the great food and Petra Hexamer for the great wines.

Pictures: Impressive Weingut Hexamer Wines

Postings: Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential German Riesling and the Northernmost Pinot Noir (Posted and Forthcoming)

Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential German Riesling and the Northernmost Pinot Noir

Weingut Georg Müller Stiftung in Hattenheim, Rheingau: Cellar Tour, Art Tour, Tasting and Vineyard Tour with Winemaker Tim Lilienström - Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Kloster Eberbach in the Rheingau: Lunch, Tour of the Abbey, the Steinberg and the Steinbergkeller, with Tasting - Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Schloss Vollrads in the Rheingau: Tour and Tasting - Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Leitz in Rüdesheim, with Johannes Leitz – Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Vineyard Tour and Tasting at Weingut Ratzenberger, Mittelrhein, with Jochen Ratzenberger - Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Rhine River Cruise in the Mittelrhein Valley, an UNESCO World Heritage Region - Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Heymann-Löwenstein in Winningen, Mosel, with Reinhard Löwenstein - Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Tasting at Weingut H.J. Kreuzberg in Dernau, Ahr, with Technical Director Albert Schamaun– Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Jean Stodden, Ahr, with Alexander Stodden - Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Tasting with Markus Molitor at Weingut Markus Molitor in Haus Klosterberg, Mosel - Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

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The Wines of the Berncasteler Doctor, Bernkastel-Kues in the Mosel Valley, Germany

Wining in Bernkastel-Kues in the Mosel Valley: Wine Tavern “Spitzhaeuschen”, Germany

Tasting and Vineyard Walk with Oliver Haag, Weingut Fritz Haag – Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

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Cellar Visit, Vineyard Walk and Tasting at Weingut Maximin Grünhaus in Mertersdorf, Ruwer, with Owner Dr. Carl von Schubert – Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut von Hövel, Saar, with Owner/ Winemaker Maximilian von Kunow - Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Tasting at Weingut Emrich-Schönleber in Monzingen, Nahe, with Owner/ Winemaker Frank Schönleber - Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Wine-pairing Lunch at Landgasthof Zur Traube in Meddersheim, Nahe, with Petra Hexamer and the wines of Weingut Hexamer.

Dinner with Wine Pairing the Restaurant of Weingut Kruger-Rumpf in Münster-Sarmsheim, Nahe, with Corenlia, Stefan and Georg Rumpf

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BEST OF Silvaner 2015/ 2016 - Markus Hofschuster, Wein Plus, Germany

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Picture: Vinyard Tour and Tasting at Weingut Horst Sauer in Eschendorf, Franken, with Horst Sauer - Germany-East Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Marcus Hofschuster is Editor-in-Chief and Lead Taster of Wein-Plus, a leading European on-line wine guide, based in Germany. Marcus Hofschuster is the man behind the reputation that Wein-Plus has gained over the past 2 decades. All wines are tasted blind. Marcus Hofschuster uses the 100 points scale.

From time to time, Marcus Hofschuster summarizes his tasting results in a "BEST OF" list. This time, he published a list summarizing his tasting results with regard to German Silvaner from the 2015 and 2016 vintages.

Picture: Nico Rechenberg, Dirk Würtz, Weingut Balthasar Ress, Marcus Hofschuster, Wein-Plus, Armin Diel, Schlossgut Diel, Paul Truszkowski, Wine in Black, and Felix Bodman at the GG Pre-release Tasting in Wiesbaden, Germany, 2016. See: Germany’s Grosses Gewächs GG Wines Released (2015 White and 2014 Red) - Notes from the Pre-release Tasting in Wiesbaden, Germany

Silvaner in Germany

Sylvaner or Silvaner is primarily grown in Alsace and Germany. In Germany it is best known as a component of Liebfraumilch and production boomed in the 1970s to the detriment of quality, but it has long enjoyed a better reputation in Franconia than in other German wine regions. While the Alsatian versions have primarily been considered simpler wines, it was recently (2006) included among the varieties that can be used to produce Alsace Grand Cru wine together with the four 'noble grapes' of Alsace, although only in one vineyard, Zotzenberg.

This dichotomy is explained by the vigour of the Sylvaner vine and the grape's neutral flavour, which can lead to blandness unless yields are controlled. On the other hand, it gives a blank canvas for the expression of terroir, and on good sites with skilled winemaking, Sylvaner can produce elegant wines. It has high acidity but naturally reaches high must weights, so is often blended with other varieties such as Riesling or Elbling, and is sometimes made into a dessert wine.

First recorded in Germany at Castell in 1659, Silvaner (with an 'i') reached a peak in the 1960s-1970s, with 30% of German vineyards. However overproduction during the Liebfraumilch years ruined its reputation, and it has since retreated to its stronghold in Franconia (Frankenland) (1,425 ha), where on the best chalky Muschelkalk terroir it can produce wines that can compete with the best German white wines which usually are made out of the Riesling grape. These powerful wines are considered food-friendly and are often described as having an "earthy" palate. Under VDP Erste Lage/Grosses Gewächs rules, Silvaner may be used for Grosses Gewächs wines (top-end dry wines), but only in Franconia and Saale-Unstrut and not in any of the other 11 German wine regions. Silvaner is also grown in Rheinhessen (2,486 ha) and Palatinate, and is sometimes also made into dessert wine.[9] Currently there are 6,000 hectares (15,000 acres) in Germany, just 5.9% of the total area under vine.

Marcus Hofschuster: Silvaner 2015 and 2016

Marcus Hofschuster: Die Silvaner-Szene ist weiter in Bewegung. Dass vor allem die rheinhessischen Winzer immer weiter zu den Franken aufschließen, ist langsam nichts Neues mehr; aber auch innerhalb Frankens herrscht weiter Aufbruchstimmung. Jedes Jahr entdecken wir neue, junge Winzer mit bemerkenswerten Weinen, während sich altbekannte Betriebe oft weiter steigern.

Das war nach dem exzellenten Silvanerjahr 2014 im schwierigeren 2015 deutlich zu merken. Derart warme Jahrgänge hätten früher gerade in der Spitze viele allzu fette und alkoholische Weine hervorgebracht. Inzwischen haben die besten Produzenten auch solche Bedingungen im Griff, wovon wir uns ganz aktuell anhand vieler aktuell probierter 15er Topsilvaner - auch das ein begrüßenswerter neuer Trend - überzeugen konnten. Die fallen zwar durchaus immer wieder recht kräftig aus, aber nurmehr sehr selten so schwer und mächtig wie in früheren Hitzejahren.

2016 kam dem Silvaner wieder deutlich entgegen, was sich auch in einer so wohl noch nie dagewesenen Serie an Spitzenweinen niederschlägt. Besonders auffällig ist, dass es sich hier längst nicht nur um Grosse Gewächse oder ähnliche Prestigeweine handelt; auch erheblich preiswertere Silvaner, etwa aus den mittleren Qualitätslinien der führenden Betriebe, aber genauso von weniger bekannten Erzeugern, zeigten in der Verkostung ein bisher nicht dagewesenes Niveau und landeten zuweilen auf vordersten Plätzen.

Mehr als 250 Weine haben wir heuer für dieses BEST OF probiert. Die besten von Ihnen haben wir hier aufgelistet und wie immer zu einem handlichen PDF verarbeitet.

Christian Schiller's Translation: The Silvaner scene is still on the move. The fact that in particular the winemakers from the Rheinhessen region continue to catch up with the winemakers from Franken is by no means new; but there is also a movement with Franken. Every year we discover new, young winemakers with remarkable wines, while well-known companies often improve further.

This was clearly noticeable after the excellent Silvaner year 2014 in the difficult 2015 year. Such warm vintages would have produced in the past many too fatty and alcoholic wines, particularly at the top. The best producers have learnt how to handle such conditions. That became obvious when we tasted the 2015 vintage top Silvaners - a welcome new trend. Although they are always quite strong, but only very rarely as heavy and powerful as in previous hot years.

In 2016 was a good year for Silvaner, which is reflected in such an unprecedented number of premium wines. Particularly noticeable is that the elevate quality is not just a trend in the premium segment. Also the significantly less expensive wines, from the middle quality level of the leading producers, but also from lesser-known producers, showed in the tasting an unprecedented quality level.

More than 250 wines were tasted this year for this BEST OF Silvaner list. The best of them we have listed below.

BEST OF Silvaner 2015 and 2016

WP stands for Wein-Plus points.

2016

94WP Escherndorf Am Lumpen 1655 GG, Horst Sauer
92+WP Escherndorf Am Lumpen 1655 GG, Rainer Sauer
92WP Rödelsee Küchenmeister GG, Weltner
92WP Würzburg Stein-Harfe GG, Bürgerspital
92WP AB OVO, Rainer Sauer
92WP Stetten Stein GG, Am Stein
91WP Thüngersheim Johannisberg GG “Rothlauf”, May
91WP Würzburg Stein Erste Lage, Bürgerspital
91WP Würzburg Stein GG, Staatlicher Hofkeller
91WP Escherndorf Lump Erste Lage “Alte Reben”, Rainer Sauer
91WP “L”, Rainer Sauer
91WP Querkopf, Schätzel

Pictures: Vineyard Tour and Tasting at Weingut Horst Sauer in Eschendorf, Franken, with Horst Sauer - Germany-East Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

90WP Sulzfeld Maustal GG, Zehnthof-Luckert
90WP Escherndorf Lump Erste Lage “S”, Horst Sauer
90WP Escherndorf Fürstenberg Erste Lage Blauer Silvaner “S”, H. Sauer
90WP Gau-Algesheim Goldberg, Bischel
90WP Randersacker Sonnenstuhl GG, Wilhelm Arnold
90WP Würzburg Stein GG, Bürgerspital
90WP Hoch 3, Am Stein

Pictures: Visit and Tasting at Weingut Am Stein Ludwig Knoll in Würzburg, Franken - Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

89WP Großheubach Bischofsberg, Kremer
89WP Volkach Ratsherr “The Egg”, Daniel Then
89WP Holznagel, Nagel
89WP Gau-Algesheim Terrassen, Bischel
89WP Escherndorf Lump Erste Lage, Rainer Sauer
89WP Sehnsucht, Horst Sauer
89WP Retzstadt Langenberg GG “Himmelspfad”, May
89WP Retzstadt Langenberg Erste Lage, May
89WP Ihringen Fohrenberg, Dr. Heger
89WP Iphofen Julius-Echter-Berg Erste Lage, Ruck
89WP Großheubach Bischofsberg, Hamdorf

Pictures: Tasting and Weingut Dr. Heger and Christian Schiller and Joachim Heger. See: Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Dr. Heger in Ihringen, Kaiserstuhl, Baden – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

2015

92WP Rödelsee Küchenmeister GG “Hoheleite”, Weltner
92WP Iphofen Julius-Echter-Berg GG, Wirsching
92WP Silex, Kraemer
91+WP Escherndorf Am Lumpen 1655 GG, Rainer Sauer
91WP Escherndorf Am Lumpen 1655 GG, Horst Sauer
91WP Iphofen Julius-Echter-Berg GG, Juliusspital
91WP Iphofen Kronsberg GG, Wirsching
91WP Iphofen Julius-Echter-Berg GG, Ruck
91WP Der Held, Weigand
91WP Réserve, Riffel
91WP Würzburg Stein GG, Staatlicher Hofkeller

Pictures: Tour and Tasting at Weingut Wirsching in Iphofen in Franken with General Manager Uwe Matheus– Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

90+WP Sulzfeld Maustal GG, Zehnthof-Luckert
90WP Homburg Kallmuth GG “Asphodill”, Fürst Löwenstein
90WP Querkopf, Schätzel
90WP Sehnsucht, Horst Sauer
90WP Gau-Algesheim Goldberg, Bischel
90WP Harxheim Lieth, Werther Windisch
90WP Würzburg Stein GG, Bürgerspital
89+WP Stetten Stein GG, Am Stein
89WP Würzburg Stein GG, Juliusspital
89WP Wiesenbronn Wachhügel “Vis-à.vis”, Grebner
89WP Iphofen Julius-Echter-Berg Erste Lage “R”, Weltner
89WP Sommerhausen Steinbach-Alttenberg 1172 GG, Schloss Sommerhausen
89WP Volkach Ratsherr GG, Zur Schwane

Picture: Christian Schiller Tasting with Kai Schätzel at Weingut Schätzel, see: A New Fixture in the Reemerging Red Slope of Nierstein - Visiting Kai Schaetzel and his Weingut Schaetzel in Nierstein, Rheinhessen, Germany

Pictures: Lunch cum Tasting with Nanne Schätzel, see: Tour, Tasting, and Lunch at Weingut Schätzel in Nierstein, Rheinhessen – Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2014)

Sweet Wines

95WP 2015 Retzstadt Langenberg Erste Lage TBA, May
89WP 2015 Sommerach Katzenkopf BA, Then
89WP 2015 Sulzfeld Maustal Auslese, Brennfleck

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Tasting at Maison Jülg in Seebach, Alsace, with Peter Jülg - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

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Picture: Tasting at Maison Jülg in Seebach, Alsace, with Peter Jülg

After the wonderful dinner at the 1 Michelin star restaurant L’Achémille (Dinner at the 1 Michelin Star Restaurant L’Achémille in Kaysersberg, with Owner/ Chef Jérome Jaegle - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours) and a good sleep in Kaysersberg, we left the hotel at 8:30am and drove to the North for a tasting at Weingut Jülg in Schweigen with Johannes Jülg, just at the French/ German border. We stayed on the French side of the Rhine River and crossed into the Pfalz region of Germany in Wissembourg.

Picture: Maison Jülg

Following the visit of Weingut Jülg we drove back into Alsace for a tasting with Johannes' uncle, Peter Jülg, who owns and runs Maison Jülg in Seebach/ Alsace. We had lunch at Restaurant/ Brasserie A La Rose in Seebach, just down the road from Maison Jülg.

After lunch we finally said good-bye to France and drove back to Germany to continue our way north into the Pfalz wine region.

Picture: Welcome at Maison Jülg

Maison Jülg

Peter Jülg is the brother of Werner Jülg and uncle of Johannes Jülg. Peter and Lydia Jülg bought the historic farm house in Seebach, Alsace - just 10 minutes from Schweigen, Germany – in 1993 and made their first vintage of Maison Jülg wines in 1994. They started out with 7 acres and today they farm 20 acres of vineyards. Their vineyards are planted with the traditional Alsatian grape varieties: Sylvaner, Pinot-Blanc, Pinot-Gris, Riesling, Muscat, Gwürztraminer, Pinot Noir and some Chardonnay for their crémant. They pursue biological agriculture, are certified “biological” and their wines carry the label “AB”.

Pictures: Tasting at Maison Jülg in Seebach, Alsace, with Peter Jülg

The Wines

NV Maison Jülg Chardonnay brut Crémant d'Alsace
NV Blanc de noir brut Crémant d'Alsace


2016 Maison Jülg Auxerrois
2016 Maison Jülg Riesling


2016 Maison Jülg Pinot blanc
2016 Maison Jülg Pinot gris


2016 Maison Jülg Muscat
2016 Maison Jülg Gewürztraminer


2015 Maison Jülg Muscat Pinot Noir Rouge d' Alsace


Bye-bye

Thanks for a great tasting.

Pictures: Bye-bye

Lunch at Restaurant – Brasserie A La Rose in Seebach

Restaurant – Brasserie A La Rose in Seebach is just down the road from Maison Jülg.

Pictures: Lunch at Restaurant – Brasserie A La Rose in Seebach

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Understanding the Wines of the Rhône Valley: The Classification - AOC/ Vin de Pay/ Vin de France

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Picture: Annette Schiller and Yann Mousset at the Wine Shop Château des Fines Roches in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. See: Rhône Valley Tour December 2017: From Lyon to Avignon - Wine, Food, Culture, History

The wine classification system of France was under overhaul from 2006, with a new system fully introduced as of 2012. As of today, any wine produced in France (and in the Rhône Valley) is sold as an (1) AOC, (2) Vin de Pay/ IGP or as a (3) Vin de France wine.

At the top, the AOP system replaced the old AOC without major modifications, although the term AOC is still widely used, including in this article.

Whereas in Bordeaux, Alsace or Bourgogne, essentially all wines are classified in the AOC system, this is not the case in the Rhône Valley. Domaine du Pegau, widely regarded as one of the leading producers in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, produces wines in all three classification categories, including the NV Plan Pegau Vin de France that is available, for example, at Calvert and Woodley in Washington DC for about US$20.

The AOC Systems of the Rhône Valley: Rhône AOCs and Other AOCs

The Rhône Valley is dominated by the Rhône AOC system. But there are other AOC systems in the Rhône Valley in addition to the Rhône AOC system. 3/4 of the total AOC region in the Rhône Valley is Rhône AOC and 1/4 is other AOC systems. All ultra-premium AOC wines in the Rhône Valley are Rhône AOC wines, including Hermitage AOC, Côte-Rôtie AOC and Châteuneuf-du-Pape AOC.

Rhône AOC

The Rhône AOC system provides a classification into four categories of AOCs:

(1) Côtes du Rhône only displays the region, and may be used in the entire wine region, in 171 communes. For some communes, this is the only allowed AOC. It is therefore the lowest classification for Rhône AOC wine. Regional Côtes du Rhône wines account for 48% of the total AOC wine production in the Rhône Valley.

(2) Côtes du Rhône Village is an AOC allowed for 95 communes, with a higher minimum requirement for grape maturity than basic Côtes du Rhône. It is therefore a higher classification. In general, the appellation does not allow the village name to be displayed.

(3) Côtes du Rhône Village plus village name on the label is allowed for 18 communes (approximately 6,500 hectares under cultivation). The 2 Côtes du Rhône-Village categories combined account for 11% of the total AOC wine production in the Rhône Valley.

Current regulation includes following villages: Cairanne, Chusclan (red and rosé only), Gadagne, Laudun, Massif d'Uchaux (red only), Plan de Dieu (red only), Puyméras (red only), Roaix, Rochegude, Rousset-les-Vignes, Sablet, Saint Gervais, Saint Maurice, Saint-Pantaléon-les-Vignes, Séguret, Signargues (red only), Valréas, Visan.

Picture: Côtes du Rhône Village Roaix

(4) At the most demanding level of distinction, a total of 17 crus are allowed to be recognized by their village name without requiring the mention of Côtes du Rhône on the label. These include the most famous Rhône wines, such as Hermitage, Côte-Rôtie and Châteuneuf-du-Pape. There is no official classification differentiating between different crus, but the market prices some AOCs much higher than others.

The Northern Crus account for 5% and the Souther Crus account for 12% of the total AOC wine production in the Rhône Valley.

Beaumes de Venise AOC, Château-Grillet AOC, Châteauneuf-du-Pape AOC, Condrieu AOC, Cornas AOC, Côte-Rôtie AOC, Crozes-Hermitage AOC, Gigondas AOC, Hermitage AOC, Lirac AOC, Rasteau AOC, Saint Joseph AOC, Saint Péray AOC, Tavel AOC, Vacqueyras AOC, Vinsobres AOC, Cairanne AOC.

Pictures: Côtes du Rhône Crus: Côte-Rôtie, Saint-Joseph, Hermitage, Gigondas, Châteauneuf-du-Pape and Tavel

Other AOCs in the Rhône Valley

Other appellations in the Rhône wine region are:

Grignan-lès-Adhémar AOC: The Grignan-Les Adhemar AOC (formerly the Côteaux du Tricastin) is the northernmost wine-growing AOC in the southern area of the Rhône wine region of France. The wines are produced in 21 communes. The Grignan-lès-Adhémar AOC accounts for 2% of the total AOC wine production in the Rhône Valley.

Formerly known as Costières du Gard, a VDQS, the region achieved AOC status in 1986 and was renamed Costières de Nîmes 1989. The Costières de Nîmes Appellation between the ancient city of Nîmes and the western Rhône delta was formerly part of the Languedoc-Roussillon Region is since 2004 part of the Rhone wine area and administered by the Rhône Wine committee which has its headquarters in Avignon.Interestingly enough, the immediately adjacent AOC of Clairette de Bellegarde remains listed as a Languedoc AOC. The Costières de Nîmes AOC accounts for 7% of the total AOC wine production in the Rhône Valley.

The Côtes du Vivarais is a wine-growing AOC in the northwestern extreme of the southern Rhône wine region. The wines are produced in 9 communes of the Ardèche department, and in 5 communes of the department of the Gard. The wine became a VDQS in 1962 and was awarded the Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée in 1999.

The Duché D’Uzès wine region, in the extreme south-west of the Rhône valley was upgraded from IGP to AOC status in 2012.

The Ventoux AOC (known as Côtes du Ventoux AOC until 2008) is a wine-growing AOC in the southeastern region of the Rhône wine region, covering 51 communes. The Ventoux AOC accounts for 9% of the total AOC wine production in the Rhône Valley.

The neighbouring appellation of Côtes du Luberon AOC stretches along Ventoux' southern border and is separated from it by the Calavon river. The wines are produced in 36 communes of the Vaucluse département. The Côtes du Luberon AOC accounts for 5% of the total AOC wine production in the Rhône Valley.

Vin de Pays (VDP)/ IGP

Vin de Pays (VDP) is the French national equivalent of the Europe-wide IGP (Indication Géographique Protégée), a quality category of French wine, positioned below the Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée (AOC). This layer of the French classification system underwent several revisions in the past decades.

There are now more than 150 VDP/IGP titles, covering locations mostly in the southern third of France. The Vin de Pays category is subdivided into three levels of geographical specificity.

The top regional level has six divisions, corresponding roughly to existing wine regions. These are: VDP du Jardin de la France (Loire); VDP de L'Atlantique (Bordeaux, Dordogne, Charentais); VDP du Comte Tolosan (South-West); VDP d'Oc (Languedoc-Roussillon); VDP Portes de Mediterranee (Provence and Corsica); and VDP des Comtes Rhodaniens (Rhône Valley, Beaujolais and Savoie). The center of the Rhone Valley is covered by both the Comtes Rhodaniens and Portes de Mediterranee titles.

The next layer is departmental, reflecting France's wider administrative structure. Of France's 100-odd departements, 52 have their own VDP titles.

The most finely tuned level consists of the 93 Vins de Pays de Zone, the most location-specific titles. These have tighter production regulations, sometimes approaching the strictness of AOC laws. Their evocative, sometimes lengthy, names are intentionally designed to avoid confusion with nearby AOC titles.

Collines Rhodaniennes is the IGP title for red, white and rosé wines from an area which essentially corresponds to the northern Rhône Valley wine region.

Coteaux du Pont du Gard is an IGP title covering wines from an area of the Gard department, at the meeting point of the Languedoc, Rhône and Provence wine regions.

Bouches-du-Rhône is the IGP title for wines made in the Bouches-du-Rhône area.

Pictures: Coteaux du Pont du Gard IGP in the Pont du Gard Region

Vin de France

Vin de France is a designation for table wine from France that has been in use since 2010, when it started to replace the former Vin de Table category. Unlike IGP and AOP wines, Vin de France wines do not indicate the wine's geographical origin within France.

Pictures: Domaine Pegau - Star Producer - Offering Châteauneuf-du-Pape AOC, Côtes du Rhône Villages AOC, Côtes du Rhône AOC and Vin de France

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New Year’s Eve at Château des Fines Roches in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, France







Tour and Wine Dinner at Château Haut-Bailly, Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017, France

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Picture: In the Kitchen with Chef Jean-Charles Poinsot and our Host Diana Paulin after a Wine Dinner at Château Haut-Bailly, Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé

The final event of the 2017 Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy was a tour of and dinner at Château Haut-Bailly. It was a most memorable evening thanks to our charming host, Diana Paulin, the very special setting in the dining and the living rooms of Château Haut-Bailly, the excellent food of Chef Jean-Charles Poinsot, and – last but not least - the superb Chateau Haut-Bailly wines.

Pictures: Arriving at Château Haut-Bailly

Château Haut-Bailly

Château Haut-Bailly is a Graves Cru Classé estate that has really hit form in the last 5-7 years. It is located in the commune of Léognan, which is usually more associated with white wine production. Just a stone’s throw away from the city of Bordeaux and our hotel, Château Haut-Bailly, one of the most prestigious Cru Classé de Graves, sits majestically in a 30 hectare vineyard at the heart of the Graves region on the left bank of the river Garonne. Neighboring estates include Château Malartic-Lagravière, Château Smith Haut Lafitte and Château Carbonnieux. The estate's second wine is named Le Parde de Haut-Bailly.

Pictures: In the Vineyard

At Château Haut-Bailly wine has been produced for more than five centuries. Like many Bordeaux estates, the property changed owners multiple times over the centuries. However, three owner families put their mark on the estate.

First, in 1630 it was bought by the Le Bailly family which eventually gave the estate its name. In those days the château had about 80 acres under vine, roughly the same as today. There were many ups and downs during the centuries and by the 1950s the estate was in a sorry state.

Pictures: Cellar Tour

Second, a wine merchant from Belgium, Daniel Sanders, bought the château in 1955 and started intensive renovations. His efforts proofed him right and Château Haut-Bailly was one of the 16 wine producers awarded with the Grand Cru Classé certification in the 1959 classification of the Graves estates.

Finally, in 1998, Elisabeth and Robert G. Wilmers – he is an American banker, she is French – bought Château Haut-Bailly and spared no expenses to invest in the vineyards, winery, and the château to give the estate the possibility to keep producing top quality wines. Robert G. Wilmers passed away in 2017.

Today, Château Haut-Bailly is managed by Véronique Sanders, fourth generation of the Sanders family.

Robert G. Wilmers (1934 - 2017)

In 1998 Château Haut-Bailly was purchased by the late Robert G. Wilmers, Chairman and CEO of the M & T Bank based in Buffalo, New York. As a lover of Bordeaux Grands Crus, his dream came true when he became the owner at Haut-Bailly. He spent much of his childhood and professional life in Belgium.

Hugely conscious of Haut-Bailly’s history yet eager to ensure continuity and modernity, he entrusted in 1998 Haut-Bailly’s management to Véronique Sanders, granddaughter of Jean Sanders.

Picture: Annette Schiller with Daina Paulin and the late Robert G. Wilmers in New York. See: Bordeaux Vintage 2014 in Bottle: Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (UGC) on 2017 North America Tour in New York - Schiller’s Favorites

Véronique Sanders, General Manager

In 1998, at the age of 30, Véronique Sanders became the General Manager of Château Haut-Bailly, making her one of a very small number of women in charge of a vineyard and the fourth generation of her family to be associated with Haut-Bailly. After two years of preparation at the Grandes Ecoles françaises, she obtained a Master’s degree in economics at the Sorbonne. She began her career at Publicis-FCB in Paris and Prague. Deciding to improve her knowledge about wine, she returned to Bordeaux in 1997 to obtain her DUAD diploma from the Faculty of Oenology. Following the sale of Château Haut-Bailly by her grandfather, Jean Sanders, Robert G. Wilmers appointed Véronique as Commercial Director in 1998 and General Manager in 2000.

Wine Dinner at Château Haut-Bailly

Amuses Gueules and Champagne in the Living Room

We started the dinner with small bites and a Pol Roger Champagne in the living room of the chateau.

Pictures: Small Bites and Pol Roger Champagne in the Living Room of the Chateau

NV Pol Roger

Picture: NV Pol Roger

One of the great nonvintage Champagnes, this is a wine with considerable bottle age, full of toasty flavors. With its gooseberry and apple fruit flavors, it is still fresh, but its great character comes from its supreme elegance. 94 pts. Wine Enthusiast: December 1, 2005. Approximately US$40

Dinner

We then moved over to the dining room for dinner.

Pictures: Dinner

4-Couse Menu

Chef Jean-Charles Poinsot prepared for us an outstanding 4-course menu.

Pictures: 4-Course Menu

Langoustines, Red Butter, Mushrooms

Pictures: First Course

Noisette of Saltbush Lamb

Pictures: Second Course

Cheese

Picture: Cheese

Dessert

Picture: Dessert

The Wines

Château Haut-Bailly Portfolio

Château Haut-Bailly has 28 hectares of vineyards which are very well sited on high, gravelly ground just east of Léognan village. In total the estate produces 150,000 bottles annually. Approximately 50% of production from the property is Grand Vin, 30% is second and 20% is third wine, although this will depend on the vintage.

Grand Vin: Château Haut-Bailly

The wine is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (65%), Merlot (25%) and Cabernet Franc (10%). The grapes are fermented in 26 concrete tanks of different sizes. The wines are aged for 18 months in new (about 50%) and used barrique barrels. There are 3 different cellars for barrel aging.

La Parde de Haut-Bailly

The estate's second wine is La Parde de Haut-Bailly, produced since 1967, but under the name Domaine de la Parde until 1979. It is aged in barrels for 12 months.

Pessac-Léognan by Chateau Haut-Bailly

The property’s third wine, "Pessac-Léognan," which bears the same name as its appellation, was created in 1987. It comes from young vines – an accessible wine that has spent less time in barrel and can be enjoyed young.

Rose de Haut-Bailly

Since 2004, Château Haut-Bailly has produced a ‘rosé de saignée’ when the conditions allow.


La Parde de Haut Bailly 2012

Château Haut-Bailly was one of the first to produce a second wine in 1967. Originated from the same plots and made with the same winemaking techniques as the first label, La Parde Haut-Bailly is subject to the same draconian selection controls. Over time, it has developed its own personality, displaying a pleasant silky texture on the palate and achieving a style of elegance and refinement. Although its softness and forward aroma mean it can be drunk sooner than Château Haut-Bailly, it also has good aging potential (5 to 8 years).

wine-searcher average price in US$: 32


Château Haut-Bailly 2006

Terrific and distinctive, "Graves style", earthy notes on the nose combine with bright, pure cassis fruit. It has a delightfully smooth mouth-feel on the palate where the notes of fruit and spice mingle with just a hint of new oak. The finish is long and elegant with enough structure to ensure its longevity. Haut Bailly is really flying at present. Chris Pollington, Fine Wine Specialist, Oct 2008

wine-searcher average price in US$: 97


Château Haut-Bailly 2008

The Wine Advocate - "A candidate for the -wine of the vintage,- the 2008 Haut-Bailly possesses incredible complexity. Tell-tale notes of lead pencil shavings, charcoal, damp earth, black cherries and black currants intermixed with a hint of subtle barbecue smoke are present in this classic, quintessential Graves. Medium-bodied with an emerging, precocious complexity, it is a super-pure, beautifully textured, long wine that can be drunk now or cellared for 20-25 years. Bravo!"

wine-searcher average price in US$: 105


Tea, Coffee

After dinner we moved back to the living room.

Picture: Tea, Coffee

In the Kitchen with Chef Jean-Charles Poinsot

Before leaving, we went to the kitchen to say thank you to Chef Jean-Charles Poinsot for the outstanding dinner.

Pictures: Last Stage - In the Kitchen with Chef Jean-Charles Poinsot

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Lunch at Château Le Bon Pasteur, Pomerol, with Dany Rolland and Benoit Prévot - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017, France

Tasting with Joël and Sandrine Duffau at Château La Mothe du Barry and Château Les Arromans in the Heart of the Entre-Deux-Mers Region - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017, France

Visiting and Tasting at Château Climens, with Owner Bérénice Lurton, Bordeaux, France

Lunch at Restaurant Claude Darroze, 1 Star Michelin, in Langon, with Jean-Charles Darroze - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Visit: Château de Chantegrive, Appellation Grave, with Owner Marie-Hélène Lévêque - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Schiller's Favorite Seafood Restaurants in Arcachon and Cap Ferret (Bassin d'Arcachon/ Bordeaux)

Visiting an Oyster Farm at Arcachon Bay, Bordeaux: Raphael Doerfler at Earl Ostrea Chanca - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Lunch at Pinasse Café, Cap Ferret - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

The 5 Premiers Grands Crus Chateaux en 1855 of Bordeaux, France

What is a Bordeaux Cru Bourgeois? France

Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Château Brane-Cantenac with Henri Luston, Owner - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Tour, Tasting and Lunch at Château Kirwan, Appellation Margaux, 3ième Grand Cru Classé, with Owner Natalie Schyler - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Visit and Tasting at Château Poujeaux, Appellation Moulis-en-Médoc, Cru Bourgeois, with Winemaker Christophe Labenne - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France

How a Barrel is Made: Visit of the Cooperage Berger & Fils in Vertheuil, with General Manager Simon Grelier – Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Tour and Tasting at Château Lafon-Rochet with Owner Michel Tesseron – Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Tour and Tasting at Château Montrose, Appellation Saint-Estèphe, 2ième Grand Cru Classé

Tour, Barrel Tasting and Family Dinner at Château Le Reysse, Vignobles Paeffgen, Appellation Médoc, with Owner/ Winemaker Stefan Paeffgen 

Tour and Tasting at Château Léoville Poyferré, Saint-Julien, 2ième Grand Cru Classé, with Didier and Anne Cuvelier

Tour and Tasting at Château Pichon-Longueville Baron in Pauillac - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Lunch at Château Pichon-Longueville-Baron with Chef à Domicile Bernadet Damien - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Tour and Tasting at Château Beychevelle, Appellation Saint-Julien, 4ième Grand Cru Classé, with General Manager Philippe Blanc

Visit and Tasting: Château Smith-Haut-Lafitte, Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé– Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Tour and Lunch at Château Malartic-Lagravière, Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé

Tour and Wine Dinner at Château Haut-Bailly, Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France
 

Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2018: Climbers, Germany

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Picture: Climber - Annette and Christian Schiller at the Rieslingfeier 2017 in New York City with Clemens Busch, Weingut Clemens Busch, Mosel. See: The Annual "Slaughterhouse" Riesling Feast in New York: Rieslingfeier 2017, USA

The Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2018 was released on Monday, November 27, 2017, in Munich, jointly with the Gault Millau Deutschland 2018, which is food guide and rates restaurants and chefs.

This posting lists the climbers in the top categories of each of the German 13 wine regions. The winemaker that were promoted are marked as "Aufsteiger". For information, each of the listed categories also includes those winemakers that did not move up (but stayed put or moved down).

The number of climbers is unusually large. This is due to the fact that the tasting team changed completely for the Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2018 as the Zabert + Sandmann Verlag purchased the Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland publishing license in June 2017.

Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2018

The Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2018 was released on Monday, November 27, 2017, in Munich, jointly with the Gault Millau Deutschland 2018, which is food guide and rates restaurants and chefs. 3 days earlier, the Vinum WeinGuide Deutschland 2018 was released in Mainz.

Interestingly, the Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2018 (24th issue) and the Vinum WeinGuide Deutschland 2018 (1st issue) share a common history.

The Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2018 was published by the Zabert + Sandmann Verlag, which had aquired the license for the Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland from the Christian Verlag in June 2017, which had published the Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2017.

A year ago, when the Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2017 was published by the Christian Verlag, Joel B. Payne was the Editor-in-Chief and Carsten S. Henn his Deputy. Joel B. Payne was at the helm of the Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland since its first issue in 1994 (earlier with Armin Diel).

Picture: Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2018

Against the background of the transfer of the licence to publish the Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland from the Christian Verlag to the Zabert + Sandmann Verlag Joel B. Payne stayed with the Christian Verlag, brought on board the Vinum Journal and managed - along with his Deputy Carsten S. Henn as well as his well established team of taster - to continue publishing a wine guide, under a new name: The Vinum WeinGuide Deutschland. I attended the release event of the latter and have reported about it here:

The Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2018 was put togather by a newly established team of tasters, all of them highly regarded, led by Editor-in-Chief Britta Wiegelmann, who took over from Joel B. Payne. Previously, she was Editor-in-Chief of the Vinum Wine Journal.

As a result of all these changes, there was quite a bit of movement in the ratings between the 2017 and 2108 issues of the Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland. This becomes obvious, inter alia, when you look at the large number of climbers to the 5, 4 1/2 and 4 grapes categories. Notably the group of top winemakers with 5/ 5 grapes grew from 13 to 18 members.

Pictures: Eichelmann Deutschlands Weine 2018, Feinschmecker WeinGuide 2018, Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2018, Vinum WeinGuide Deutschland 2018 and the Frankfurter Allgemeine Sonntagszeitung with Stuart Pigotts Favorites (Photo: Philipp Wittmann)

Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2018: Climbers

Trauben = Grapes (Stars)
Aufsteiger = Climber

Ahr

4 1/2 Trauben

Jean Stodden

4 Trauben

Deutzerhof Crossmann-Hehle (Aufsteiger)

3 1/2 Trauben

J.J. Adeneuer
Burggarten
Meyer-Näkel

Baden

5 Trauben

Dr. Heger (Aufsteiger)
Bernhard Huber

4 1/2 Trauben

Bercher (Aufsteiger)
Salwey (Aufsteiger)

4 Trauben

Karl H. Johner (Aufsteiger)
Franz Keller (Aufsteiger)
Knab (Aufsteiger)
Andreas Laible
Seeger (Aufsteiger)
Schloss Neuweier (Aufsteiger)
Schlör (Aufsteiger)
Reinhold und Cornelia Schneider
Fritz Waßmer (Aufsteiger)
Martin Waßmer (Aufsteiger)
Ziereisen

Pictures: Tasting and Cellar Tour at Weingut Stigler, Baden, with Andreas, Regina and Max Stigler - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Franken

5 Trauben

Rudolf Fürst

4 1/2 Trauben

Horst Sauer (Aufsteiger)
Zehnthof Luckert (Aufsteiger)

4 Trauben

Rainer Sauer

Pictures: Vinyard Tour and Tasting at Weingut Horst Sauer in Eschendorf, Franken, with Horst Sauer - Germany-East Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Hessische Bergstraße

2 1/2 Trauben

Simon-Bürkle

2 Trauben

Griesel & Compagnie (Aufsteiger)

Mittelrhein

3 1/2 Trauben

Matthias Müller

3 Trauben

Toni Jost – Hahnenhof
Ratzenberger

Mosel

5 Trauben

Forstmeister Geltz Zilliken
Fritz Haag – Dusemonder Hof
Markus Molitor (Aufsteiger)
Egon Müller – Scharzhof
Joh. Jos. Prüm (Aufsteiger)
Schloss Lieser – Thomas Haag

4 1/2 Trauben

Clemens Busch (Aufsteiger)
Peter Lauer (Aufsteiger)
Willi Schaefer (Aufsteiger)
Selbach-Oster (Aufsteiger)

4 Trauben

Jos. Christoffel Jr.
Franz-Josef Eifel (Aufsteiger)
Dr. Hermann
Heymann-Löwenstein
Dr. Loosen
Maximin Grünhaus Schlosskellerei C. von Schubert
Vollenweider
Nik Weis – St. Urbans-Hof
Weiser-Künstler
Van Volxem (Aufsteiger)

Picture: Annette Schiller and Manfred Prüm

Picture: Christian Schiller with Katharina Pruem at Wegmans in Virginia. See also: JJ Pruem Goes Supermarket: Meeting Katharina Pruem and Tasting the Incredible JJ Pruem Wines at Wegmans

Pictures: Tasting at the Legendary Weingut J.J. Prüm with Amei Prüm– Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016

Nahe

5 Trauben

Hermann Dönnhoff
Schäfer-Fröhlich

4 1/2 Trauben

Emrich-Schönleber
Schlossgut Diel

4 Trauben

Dr. Crusius
Kruger-Rumpf (Aufsteiger)
Jakob Schneider
Gut Hermannsberg

Pictures: At Weingut Kruger-Rumpf with Stefan and Georg Rumpf. See: Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential German Riesling and the Northernmost Pinot Noir

Pfalz

5 Trauben

Geheimer Rat Dr. von Bassermann-Jordan (Aufsteiger)
Knipser
Ökonomierat Rebholz

Pictures: Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting at Weingut Geheimer Rat Dr. von Bassermann-Jordan in Deidesheim with General Manager Gunther Hauck – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2014)

4 1/2 Trauben

Dr. Bürklin-Wolf
Bernhard Koch (Aufsteiger)
Philip Kuhn (Aufsteiger)
Dr. Wehrheim
4 Trauben
Friedrich Becker
Christmann
Kranz
Müller-Catoir
Pfeffingen
Reichsrat von Buhl
Rings
Von Winning

Rheingau

5 Trauben

Peter Jakob Kühn
Robert Weil

4 1/2 Trauben

Georg Breuer
Leitz

4 Trauben

J. B. Becker (Aufsteiger)
Schloss Johannisberg (Aufsteiger)
August Kesseler (Aufsteiger)
Künstler
Schloss Reinhartshausen (Aufsteiger)
Josef Spreitzer
Wegeler Gutshaus Rheingau

Pictures: Tasting at Weingut J.B. Becker. See: Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential German Riesling and the Northernmost Pinot Noir

Rheinhessen

5 Trauben

Klaus Peter Keller

4 1/2 Trauben

Battenfeld-Spanier
Sekthaus Raumland
Wittmann

4 Trauben

Kühling-Gillot
Thörle (Aufsteiger)
Wagner-Stempel (Aufsteiger)

Pictures: Johannes Thörle, Christian Schiller, Christoph Thörle and Annette Schiller. See: Visit: Winzerhof Thörle in Saulheim, Rheinhessen – Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Sachsen

3 1/2 Trauben

Martin Schwarz (Aufsteiger)

3 Trauben

Sächsisches Staatsweingut Schloss Wackerbarth (Aufsteiger)
Klaus Zimmerling

2 1/2 Trauben

Schloss Proschwitz

Pictures: Dresden is the New Unlikely Place for Fine Barolo Wine: Weingut Martin Schwarz– Germany-East Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Saale-Unstrut

3 Trauben

Winzerhof Gussek
Pawis (Aufsteiger)

2 1/2 Trauben

Hey
Uwe Lützkendorf (Aufsteiger)

Pictures: Tasting at Weingut Uwe Lützkendorf, with Uwe Lützkendorf, in Bad Kösen, Saale-Unstrut– Germany-East Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Picture: Wolfgang Junglas, Uwe Lützkendorf, Stuart Pigott. See: Tasting the Best of Virginia Wines in Frankfurt, Germany, with Stuart Pigott: Virginia Governor's Cup Case 2016

Württemberg

5 Trauben

Aldinger (Aufsteiger)

4 1/2 Trauben/ 4 Trauben

Dautel (Aufsteiger)
J. Ellwanger (Aufsteiger)
Karl Haidle (Aufsteiger)
Graf Neipperg
Rainer Schnaitmann
Wöhrwag (Aufsteiger)

Pictures: Gert Aldinger, Weingut Aldinger, Karl Eugen Erbgraf zu Neipperg, Weingut Des Grafen Neipperg and Annette Schiller See: 2017 VDP Trade Fair Weinbörse - Vintage 2016 - in Mainz: Schiller’s Report

Pictures: Hansjörg and Matthias Aldinger with Christian Schiller. See: See: Germany’s Best Winemakers and Wines – Vinum WeinGuide Deutschland 2018 Awards: The Award Ceremony in Mainz, Germany

schiller-wine: Related Postings

Ombiasy Wine Tours 2018: 3 x France and 3 x Germany - Ombiasy Newsletter December 2017

The Annual "Slaughterhouse" Riesling Feast in New York: Rieslingfeier 2017, USA

Tasting and Cellar Tour at Weingut Stigler, Baden, with Andreas, Regina and Max Stigler - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Vinyard Tour and Tasting at Weingut Horst Sauer in Eschendorf, Franken, with Horst Sauer - Germany-East Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

JJ Pruem Goes Supermarket: Meeting Katharina Pruem and Tasting the Incredible JJ Pruem Wines at Wegmans

Tasting at the Legendary Weingut J.J. Prüm with Amei Prüm– Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016

Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential German Riesling and the Northernmost Pinot Noir

Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting at Weingut Geheimer Rat Dr. von Bassermann-Jordan in Deidesheim with General Manager Gunther Hauck – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2014)

Visit: Winzerhof Thörle in Saulheim, Rheinhessen – Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Dresden is the New Unlikely Place for Fine Barolo Wine: Weingut Martin Schwarz– Germany-East Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Tasting at Weingut Uwe Lützkendorf, with Uwe Lützkendorf, in Bad Kösen, Saale-Unstrut– Germany-East Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Wolfgang Junglas, Uwe Lützkendorf, Stuart Pigott. See: Tasting the Best of Virginia Wines in Frankfurt, Germany, with Stuart Pigott: Virginia Governor's Cup Case 2016

2017 VDP Trade Fair Weinbörse - Vintage 2016 - in Mainz: Schiller’s Report

Germany’s Best Winemakers and Wines – Vinum WeinGuide Deutschland 2018 Awards: The Award Ceremony in Mainz, Germany

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz in Siebeldingen, Pfalz, with Hansjörg and Valentin Rebholz and Sabine Wagner - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

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Picture: In the Cellar of Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz, Siebeldingen, Pfalz, with Hansjörg and Valentin Rebholz

Hansjörg and Birgit Rebholz, the third generation of the Rebholz family continue what the founder, the Ökonomierat Eduard Rebholz began: producing highly individualistic wines by working as close as possible with nature. The Rebholz wines are crystal clear, sharp, clean, simply beautiful in their transparency and underscore the individuality of the terroir, the climate, and the grape.

Valentin Rebholz showed us around in the cellar and Sabine Wagner, former German Wine Princess, conducted the tasting. Hansjörg Rebholz joined us during the cellar tour.

Pictures: Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz in Siebeldingen, Pfalz

Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz

Hansjörg and Birgit Rebholz, the third generation of the Rebholz family, continue what the founder, the Ökonomierat Eduard Rebholz began: producing highly individualistic wines by working as close as possible with nature.

Hansjörg Rebholz was Winemaker of the Year 2013 (Falstaff) and Winemaker of the Year 2002 (Gault Millau). Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz has the top 5 out of 5 grapes rating in the Gault Millau (with 10 other winemakers). Also, Hansjörg Rebholz is one of the movers and shakers in the Grosses Gewächs movement in Germany.

Picture: Annette and Christian Schiller with Hansjörg and Birgit Rebholz at Prowein 2015 in Düsseldorf

Ökonomierat Eduard Rebholz

Eduard Rebholz (1889 – 1966), an Oekonomierat (Economic Counsellor), became well-known as an advocate of the natural wine school of thought. Eduard took great exception to the then contemporary taste in wine and countered the unnatural, artificially sweetened blends with his idea of natural wine. His doctrine that good vinification could do without chaptalization, without “Süßreserve” (the adding of sweet/unfermented grape juice), or structural changes to the wine due to cellar techniques, influenced the work of the succeeding generations.

A trained scientist he researched climate, soils in the vineyards and the appropriate varietals, harvesting periods redefined, methods of vinification replaced by its own strict rules. He even included in his research practical experience of winegrowers in other regions. All of this forms the foundation of the Rebholz style.

Pictures: Hansjörg Rebholz, Birgit Rebholz and (son) Hans Rebholz, Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz, in Mainz at the Gault Millau 2016 Awards Ceremony: Bester Weißer Burgunder: 2014 Chardonnay »R« Ökonomierat Rebholz, see: Germany’s Best Winemakers and Wines – Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2016 Awards: The Awards Ceremony in Mainz, Germany

Terroirs

There are three distinct terroirs in the estate’s vineyards. In the Süd-Pfalz, where the estate is located, limestone terroir rules and it is ubiquitously present in one part of the Im Sonnenschein (or in the sunshine) vineyard where Riesling, Pinot Noir, Pinot Blanc and to lesser amounts Pinot Gris and estate specialties Gewürztraminer and Muskateller are planted.

In the Ganzhorn, a small parcel of the same site the estates Riesling excels. It performs the minor miracle of exquisite peach, apple and apricot aromas sourced from the deluvial shingle of the Queich Brook.

Pictures: In the Cellar of Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz, Siebeldingen, Pfalz, with Hansjörg and Valentin Rebholz

Rebholz’ oldest vineyard, the Albertsweiler Latt, in Albersweil was planted to Gewurztraminer in 1947. The vines are trellised on pergolas because at the time, Hansjorg’s grandfather believed the region had a similar climate to Tuscany.

Last but not least there is the Kastanienbusch (or chestnut bush), one of the steepest and highest slopes in the Pfalz at 300 meters, on red slate soil that is unusual in the region. This iron-rich, well-draining soil produce wines of great concentration. It simply produces some of the greatest dry Rieslings not only in Germany – but anywhere.

The estate’s 22 ha are farmed bio-dynamically with a production of about 10,000 cases.

Pictures: In the Cellar of Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz, Siebeldingen, Pfalz, with Hansjörg and Valentin Rebholz

Natural Wine

Hansjörg Rebholz: For more than 50 years, we've been making wines containing only what nature intended for them. We do not chaptalize our wines (the addition of sugar prior to fermentation in order to increase the alcohol content), nor do we use a 'Süßreserve' (unfermented grape must added to the finished wine prior to bottling).

We are proud that despite these strict and self-imposed restrictions, our name has regularly come out on top of numerous and international tastings and competitions. This continued success serves as a constant reminder for us that while we may not have chosen the easy path, for us it is indeed the right one.

Working as close to nature as possible — nothing more, nothing less. This is what we believe makes a natural wine. It is our mantra, our philosophy and our goal in the vineyard. In practice, our long established principles and methods align closely with sustainable winegrowing.

Pictures: Pressing

For starters, we've been following organic guidelines in our vineyards since 2005. In an effort to promote a healthy ecosystem and to protect the environment, we also forgo the use of herbicides, synthetic fungicides and mineral fertilizers. We use only organic techniques and materials that promote healthy plants, helping the vines grow strong and prosper naturally. While these methods involve more time and effort, it is a price we willingly accept in order to best protect and preserve the biodiversity within our vineyard.

We believe that this work directly impacts the quality of our wines. Each terroir is defined by its own distinct native flora and fauna, the living organisms in the soil, the natural topsoil and a certain capacity on the part of the vines and their roots to tap into and work with these elements. By nurturing a more natural ecosystem in the soil, we help the vines better express the distinct character of their terroir in their fruit, and thus ultimately in our wines. And that's exactly what we're after.

Pictures: Vintage 2017 Tasting from Tank with Valentin Rebholz

Even so, fine wine is only one reason why we pursue sustainability. We see it as our social responsibility to preserve nature, first and foremost our vineyards but also the larger world around us. We never allow ourselves to forget that we are mere stewards for the generations to come.

Our wines conform to the published standards of the EU Eco Regulation and have earned EU organic certification. All of our wines bear the Öko-Kontroll number DE-ÖKO-003.

Pictures: Tasting with Birgit Rebholz and Sabine Wagner

The Wines we Tasted

2016 Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz Muskateller trocken VDP.Gutswein


2016 Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz Riesling vom Buntsandstein trocken VDP.Ortswein

2016 Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz Riesling vom Rotliegenden trocken VDP.Ortswein

2016 Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz Frankweiler Biengarten Riesling trocken VDP.Erste Lage

2016 Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz Ganzhorn im Sonnenschein Riesling GG trocken VDP.Grosse Lage

2016 Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz Im Sonnenschein Riesling GG trocken VDP.Grosse Lage

2016 Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz Kastanienbusch Riesling GG trocken VDP.Grosse Lage

2011 Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz Kastanienbusch Riesling GG trocken VDP.Grosse Lage


2016 Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz Weisser Burgunder vom Lösslehm trocken VDP.Ortswein

2016 Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz Siebeldinger Weisser Burgunder vom Muschelkalk trocken VDP.Ortswein

2013 Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz Im Sonnenschein Weisser Burgunder GG VDP.Grosse Lage


2014 Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz Siebeldinger Spätburgunder vom Muschelkalk trocken VDP.Ortswein

2011 Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz Im Sonnenschein Spätburgunder GG VDP.Grosse Lage


13 Impressive Wines


schiller-wine: All Postings (Published and Forthcoming): Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: Baden, Alsace, Pfalz and Rheinhessen

Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: Baden, Alsace, Pfalz and Rheinhessen

Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour (and Lunch) with Robert Schätzle, Owner/ Winemaker, Weingut Schloss Neuweier in Baden - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

La Cucina della Passione and Weingut Schloss Neuweier Wines: Wine Pairing Lunch at Röttele’s Restaurant (1 Star Michelin) at Schloss Neuweier, with Owner and Winemaker Robert Schätzle, Weingut Schloss Neuweier - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

The Music of the A Cappella Ensemble "Männer und Tenöre" and the Wines of Weingut Aufricht, Lake Constance, Baden, with Manfred Aufricht - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

The Evolving Structure of the Wine Industry in Germany– The Case of the Lake Constance Region

Schloss Salem at Lake Constance in Germany: A Museum, a School and a Wine Estate

Visit of Schloss Salem, Kirche Birnau and Weingut Markgraf von Baden - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

The Wines of the Markgräflerland (Baden): Tasting and Cellar Tour at Weingut Löffler - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Tasting and Cellar Tour at Weingut Stigler, Baden, with Andreas, Regina and Max Stigler - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Dinner at Restaurant Schwarzer Adler, 1 Star Michelin, Oberbergen, Kaiserstuhl, Baden - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars and Wine Taverns in Freiburg, Baden, Germany

The World Class Wines of Alsace

In the world class white wine region Alsace

Tasting at Domaine Marcel Deiss in Bergheim, Alsace - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Lunch in Alsace: Wistube du Sommelier in Bergheim and L’Epicurien in Colmar - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Tasting at Domaine Dirler-Cadé with Jean Pierre Dirler and Ludevine Dirler-Cadé - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Tour and Tasting at Domaines Schlumberger in Guebwiller, Alsace - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Tour and Tasting at Hugel in Riquewhir, Alsace, with Jean Frédéric Hugel - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Dinner at the 1 Michelin Star Restaurant L’Achémille in Kaysersberg, with Owner/ Chef Jérome Jaegle - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Wine Lunch at Weingut Jülg with Johannes Jülg– Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Tasting at Maison Jülg in Seebach, Alsace, with Peter Jülg - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Schiller's Favorite (Wine-) Restaurants in Deidesheim in the Pfalz, Germany


Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz in Siebeldingen, Pfalz, with Valentin Rebholz and Sabine Wagner - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Münzberg – Lothar Kesseler & Söhne in Landau-Godramstein, Pfalz, with Friedrich and Gunter Kesseler

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Rings in Freinsheim, Pfalz, with Andi Rings

Tasting at Weingut Krebs in Freinsheim, Pfalz, with Jürgen Krebs

Tasting at Sekthaus Raumland in Flörsheim-Dalsheim, Rheinhessen, with Heide-Rose and Volker Raumland

Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Philipp Wittmann and Eva Clüsserath-Wittmann at Weingut Wittmann in Westhofen – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2014)

Cellar Tourvisit and Tasting at Weingut Gröbe in Westhofen, Rheinhessen, with Fritz Gröbe

Cellar Tour and Wine Pairing Lunch at Weingut Louis Guntrum in Nierstein, Rheinhessen, with Konstantin and Stephanie Guntrum

Top 20 German Red Wines: Falstaff Weinguide Deutschland 2018

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Picture: Annette Schiller and Fritz Keller, Weingut Franz Keller. See: Weingut Franz Keller in Oberbergen, Kaiserstuhl, Baden: Cellar Tour and Tasting with Fritz Keller– Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Falstaff WeinGuide Deutschland is one of the leading German wine guides. Ulrich Sautter is Falstaff WeinGuide Deutschland's Editor-in-chief. The Falstaff WeinGuide Deutschland 2018 was released a few weeks ago. In contrast to other German Wine Guides, including Vinum, Gault Millau, Eichelmann and Feinschmecker, the Falstaff WeinGuide Deutschland does not provide ratings of the reviewed winemakers but only of their wines.

Picture: Falstaff WeinGuide Deutschland 2018

Below is a listing of the 20 highest rated red wines in the Falstaff WeinGuide Deutschland 2018. I already released a similar posting with the top 20 white wines: Top 20 German White Wines: Falstaff Weinguide Deutschland 2018

96/ 100

2010 »Granat« trocken 80% Zweigelt, 20% Cabertin
Weingut Albrecht Schwegler
Württemberg, Baden-Württemberg, Deutschland
Punkte 96

2015 »R« Malsch Rotsteig Lemberger Auslese trocken
Wein- und Sektgut Hummel
Baden, Baden-Württemberg, Deutschland
Punkte 96

2015 »Rothe Bach« Blaufränkisch trocken
Weingut St. Antony
Rheinhessen, Rheinland-Pfalz, Deutschland
Punkte 96

2011 »Solitär« Zweigelt trocken
Weingut Albrecht Schwegler
Württemberg, Baden-Württemberg, Deutschland
Punkte 96

Pictures: Christian Schiller with Bernd Hummel and Otto Baison (Weingut Baison, Hochheim). See: Where the SAP Bosses Buy Their Wines – Weingut Bernd Hummel in Baden, Germany

95/ 100

2015 »GC« Schlatt Maltesergarten Pinot Noir trocken
Weingut Martin Waßmer
Baden, Baden-Württemberg, Deutschland
Punkte 95

2014 »Jaspis« Pinot Noir trocken
Weingut Hanspeter Ziereisen
Baden, Baden-Württemberg, Deutschland
Punkte 95

2015 »Terra 1261« Spätburgunder trocken
Weingut Benedikt Baltes
Franken, Bayern, Deutschland
Punkte 95

2015 Achkarren Schlossberg Spätburgunder GG
Weingut Franz Keller
Baden, Baden-Württemberg, Deutschland
Punkte 95

2015 Bürgstadt Centgrafenberg Hundsrück Spätburgunder GG
Weingut Rudolf Fürst
Franken, Bayern, Deutschland
Punkte 95

2015 Dernau Pfarrwingert Spätburgunder GG
Weingut Meyer-Näkel
Ahr, Rheinland-Pfalz, Deutschland
Punkte 95

2015 Fellbach Lämmler Lemberger GG
Weingut Rainer Schnaitmann
Württemberg, Baden-Württemberg, Deutschland
Punkte 95

2015 Gündelbach Wachtkopf Lemberger*** trocken
Weingut Steinbachhof
Württemberg, Baden-Württemberg, Deutschland
Punkte 95

2011 Malterdingen Bienenberg Spätburgunder GG
Weingut Bernhard Huber
Baden, Baden-Württemberg, Deutschland
Punkte 95

2015 Oberrotweil Kirchberg Spätburgunder GG
Weingut Salwey
Baden, Baden-Württemberg, Deutschland
Punkte 95

2014 Schweigen Kammerberg Spätburgunder GG
Weingut Friedrich Becker
Pfalz, Rheinland-Pfalz, Deutschland
Punkte 95

Pictures:Paul Fürst, Annette Schiller, Sebastian Fürst and Christian Schiller at Weingut Rudolf Fürst. See: Tasting and Tour with the Pinot Noir Legend Paul Fürst, Weingut Rudolf Fürst in Bürgstadt, Franken – Germany-East Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Pictures: Joel B. Payne, Stephan Knipser, Sebastian Fürst and Christian Schiller at the Vinum WeinGuide Deutschland 2018 Award Ceremony. See: Germany’s Best Winemakers and Wines – Vinum WeinGuide Deutschland 2018 Awards: The Award Ceremony in Mainz, Germany

Pictures: Winemaker Dinner with Sebastian Fürst, Weingut Fürst, Franken, at Schaumahl, Offenbach/ Frankfurt, 16 Points Gault Millau, Germany

94/ 100

2015 »Alte Reben« Spätburgunder trocken
Weingut Bernhard Huber
Baden, Baden-Württemberg, Deutschland
Punkte 94

2015 »Caviar« Spätburgunder trocken
Weingut Balthasar Ress
Rheingau, Hessen, Deutschland
Punkte 94

2015 »GC« Dottingen Castellberg Syrah trocken
Weingut Martin Waßmer
Baden, Baden-Württemberg, Deutschland
Punkte 94

2015 »GC« Ehrenstetten Ölberg Pinot Noir trocken
Weingut Martin Waßmer
Baden, Baden-Württemberg, Deutschland
Punkte 94

1999 »Granat« trocken
Weingut Albrecht Schwegler
Württemberg, Baden-Württemberg, Deutschland
Punkte 94

Pictures: Tasting at Weingut Bernhard Huber in Baden, with Yquem Viehauser and Julian Huber – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

schiller-wine: Related Postings

Ombiasy Wine Tours 2018: 3 x France and 3 x Germany - Ombiasy Newsletter December 2017

Weingut Franz Keller in Oberbergen, Kaiserstuhl, Baden: Cellar Tour and Tasting with Fritz Keller– Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Top 20 German White Wines: Falstaff Weinguide Deutschland 2018

Where the SAP Bosses Buy Their Wines – Weingut Bernd Hummel in Baden, Germany

Tasting and Tour with the Pinot Noir Legend Paul Fürst, Weingut Rudolf Fürst in Bürgstadt, Franken – Germany-East Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Germany’s Best Winemakers and Wines – Vinum WeinGuide Deutschland 2018 Awards: The Award Ceremony in Mainz, Germany

Winemaker Dinner with Sebastian Fürst, Weingut Fürst, Franken, at Schaumahl, Offenbach/ Frankfurt, 16 Points Gault Millau, Germany

Tasting at Weingut Bernhard Huber in Baden, with Yquem Viehauser and Julian Huber – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)



Tour and Tasting at Château Montrose, Appellation Saint-Estèphe, 2ième Grand Cru Classé - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France

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Picture:  Tour and Tasting at Château Montrose, Saint-Estèphe: Empty Barrel Cellar

Following lunch at Restaurant Le Saint Seurin in Saint-Estèphe, an unassuming, very traditional French village restaurant, we drove over to Château Montrose, Appellation Saint-Estèphe, 2ième Grand Cru Classé, for a tour and tasting.

Pictures: Lunch at Restaurant Le Saint Seurin in Saint-Estèphe

Château Montrose, Appellation Saint-Estèphe, 2ième Grand Cru Classé

Château Montrose is the youngest of all classified growth. The property however existed before it became a wine producing estate in 1815.

The land of Château Montrose was originally part of the Calon-Ségur estate and owned by Alexandre de Ségur, who also owned other properties such as Chateau Mouton, Chateau Lafite and Chateau Latour. He gave the land to his son, Nicolas Alexandre, who sold it in 1778 to Etienne Theodore Dumoulin. Under the direction of her son, Theodore, the land was cleared and the first vineyards were planted. Eventually, the area was split from the greater Calon-Ségur estate and was renamed as Montrose-Ségur. By 1855 it had expanded to 50 hectares, was known simply as Montrose and classified as a Deuxième Cru.

Picture: Welcome at Château Montrose

The château can look back on three family owners, all of them were very ambitious, and worked hard to constantly improve quality. One of them - Mathieu Dollfus - was a visionary entrepreneur, and he managed to stop the devastating phylloxera by installing a windmill that bumped up water from an underground well to flood the vineyards, thus saving the vines. The windmill is now the hallmark of the Château.

The current owners - since 2006 - are the brothers Martin and Thomas Bouygues. They hired top people: Jean Bernard Delmas, previously at Haut-Brion, and Hervé Berland, who spent four decades at Mouton-Rothschild, to bring quality up even further. They undertook an extensive renovation project and converted the estate into one of the most environmentally conscious and energy efficient Château.

Pictures: Château Montrose, Appellation Saint-Estèphe, 2ième Grand Cru Classé

The Last Decade

Succeeding three generations of the Charmolüe family, Martin and Olivier Bouygues acquired Château Montrose in 2006. They loved its wines, to which they had been introduced by their father, Francis Bouygues. Aware of the potential of its unique terroir, they appreciated the advantages and riches of the estate and decided to invest in it. Under their impetus, Montrose entered the 21st century with a spectacular reconstruction.

The exceptional project took seven years, from 2007 to 2013, a timespan justified by the wish to respect the estate’s cycle of activity. The 10,000-m² renovation met four major challenges set by Martin and Olivier Bouygues: To give Château Montrose the finest vinegrowing and winemaking facilities, including a new 1,000-m², 11-metre-high main barrel hall where the premium wine can mature in ideal conditions; to identify and take advantage of every opportunity to save and produce energy, especially through a geothermal system and 3,000 m² of rooftop solar panels; to respect the environment and significantly reduce the estate’s carbon footprint; and to preserve the overall architecture of Château Montrose in the typical 18th century Bordeaux style.

Following on from their predecessors, Martin and Olivier Bouygues aim to further enhance this unique terroir, a single sweep in an ideal location on the banks of the Gironde estuary.

Under the direction of Mélissa Bouygues and managed by Hervé Berland, the estate benefits from a combination of youth and experience in a multi-generational team in which vinegrowers and winemakers rub shoulders with technical specialists and academic experts.

The vineyards cover 95 hectares, with 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot.

Pictures: Touring Château Montrose, Appellation Saint-Estèphe, 2ième Grand Cru Classé

Hervé Berland

Hervé Berland was 30 years with Château Mouton Rothschild, before retiring there and moving over to Château Montrose and Château Tronquoy Lalande in April 2012, just a few kilometers from Mouton in Saint-Estèphe. Since 2006, Hervé Berland had been Managing Director of Mouton Rothschild and with the Rothschild family since 1977.

Pictures: Hervé Berland, his wife, Christian Schiller and Annette Schiller in Washington DC. See: Fête du Bordeaux of Calvert and Woodley in Washington DC, 2012, USA

Picture: Hervé Berland with Annette and Christian Schiller. See: Massive Château Montrose Vertical with Hervé Berland, Managing Director, and Panos Kakaviatos at Restaurant Ripple in Washington DC

Tasting

Following the tour, we tasted 3 wines.

Pictures: Tasting

The Wines we Tasted


2012 Château Montrose

wine-searcher US$100

Robert Parker's Wine Advocate 92

Tasted at the château, the 2012 Montrose is a blend of 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot picked between 24 September and 20 October. It underwent a particularly long maceration period between 26 and 28 days. It offers more fruit intensity than the 2011 Montrose with blackberry, raspberry and bilberry scents, quite backward and primal yet well defined. The aromatics almost mock you because returning after ten minutes, there are glimpses of underlying dried herb and mineral notes. The palate is medium-bodied, intense and very focused, clearly with more depth and sinew than the 2011, yet displaying impressive precision and energy on the finish, which bodes well for the long-term. Tasted September 2016.


Kevin Shin: Intense cassis driven nose, blueberry liqueur, cabernet floral dust, lead pencil, dark spices, caramel and earth. There is a very slight hint of over ripe fruit but not too bothersome. Excellent concentration, intense cassis driven palate impression, bright acidity, strong presence of mineral and a long sweet finish with cassis at the end. It is slightly coarse, certainly not the most polished wine. Nevertheless, excellent concentration and intense sweet cassis fruit make the wine quite promising. It is developing nicely. Will need minimum ten more years to reach the youthful peak. This is certainly not a sub 90 point wine in RP scale. If you can source at sub $70, this is a compelling value.

2012 La Dame de Montrose

wine-searcher: US$41

Château Tronquoy-Lalande

wine-searcher US$31


Château Montrose Vertical in Washington DC Earlier in the Year

The visit of Château Montrose was arranged by Annette Schiller, ombiasy WineTours, earlier in the year at a massive Château Montrose Vertical in Washington DC, organized by Panos Kakaviatos.

Picture: Hervé Berland, Managing Director of Château Montrose, Panos Kakaviatos, Wine Journalist, and Annette Schiller

For the past years, Panos Kakaviatos - based in Strasbourg, France - has organized a Grand Bordeaux Tasting in Washington DC at the beginning of the year, when he spends a few weeks in his hometown. In 2017,  Panos' Washington DC Grand Bordeaux Tasting featured a massive Château Montrose Vertical with Hervé Berland. Panos Kakaviatos is a highly respected Bordeaux expert, who regularly writes for the Decanter, Harpers Wine & Spirits – two excellent UK based wine magazines - and other wine publications.

I have reported about the sensational Château Montrose Vertical here: Massive Château Montrose Vertical with Hervé Berland, Managing Director, and Panos Kakaviatos at Restaurant Ripple in Washington DC. Below find comments of some participants.

Panos Kakaviatos on Facebook

Panos Kakaviatos on facebook: The 2010 was overall the greatest methinks (for the future) but we had very fine bottles of 1990 and the 1989 was just as good. I really enjoyed the 1995 with the savory terrine. Perhaps the best food wine combo was the second flight. The egg and truffle were amazing, matched well against the youthful 2010, 2009 and the more roasted, evolved 2003.

Picture: Panos Kakaviatos and Jose Aguirre, General Manager and Wine Director of Ripple

Bijan Jabbari on Facebook

Bijan Jabbari on facebook: Le millésime 1990 était la star du soir ! Mais 1989 était également exceptionnelle.

Picture: Massive Château Montrose Vertical

Howard Cooper on Facebook

Howard Cooper on facebook: Two or three years ago, I had the 1989 and 1990 together and thought that the 1989 was the much better wine. Last night, the 1989 that I had was not nearly as good as the one then. Note that, while the 1990s were sourced from the winery, the 1989s were sourced from people at the tasting, meaning inconsistent provenance. My sense for listening to people is that some bottles were better than others.

Picture: Massive Château Montrose Vertical

Kevin Shin on Wine-berserkers

Mr. Berland brought fifteen vintages of Chateau Montrose. Panos, Paul and Chris generously contributed the 89 each so we could compare to the 90. It was incredibly fascinating and educational to taste sixteen vintages of Chateau Montrose. It certainly was the first time where I tasted more than a few verticals of Chateau Montrose. My impression was that the wines of Chateau Montrose ages at a glacial pace. A hint of Cabernet green, lead pencil, strong mineral expression, very polished silky palate and youthfulness really reminded me Chateau Leoville Las Cases. Although I have experienced major inconsistency with the 86 and 90 Montrose in the past, these bottles were very clean and expressive. I was pleasantly surprised by how well the 76, 86, 98, 08 and 12 showed. As expected the 90, 00, 03, 05, 09 and 10 stole the show. The only minor disappointment was the 89 which was overshadowed by the 90.

Picture: Massive Château Montrose Vertical

Total Immersion in Bordeaux: World Class Wines and Exquisite French Gourmet Cuisine - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France Published and Forthcoming Postings)

Total Immersion in Bordeaux: World Class Wines and Exquisite French Gourmet Cuisine - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Bordeaux Wine Tour 2013 by ombiasy

Bordeaux Wines and their Classifications: The Basics

Tour and Tasting at Château La Mission Haut-Brion, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Cru Classé de Grave - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Dinner with a View: At Restaurant L’Estacade in Bordeaux City - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux City - An Update

Schiller’s Favorite Seafood Places in Bordeaux City, France - An Update

Bordeaux - En Primeur, Negociants, Courtiers, the Quai de Chartons and the Place de Bordeaux– A Short Introduction

How Does the Negociant System in Bordeaux Work? Tour and Tasting at Millésima - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Saint Emilion Wines and their Classification, Bordeaux, France

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in St. Emilion, France

Bio in Bordeaux: Cellar Tour, Vineyard Tour and Winepairing Lunch at Chateau Beauséjour and Château Langais, AOC Puisseguin-St.Emilion, with Owner/ Winemaker Gérard Dupuy - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Tour and Tasting at Château Cheval Blanc, Appellation Saint-Emilion, Premier Grand Cru Classé A - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Tour and Tasting at Château La Conseillante, Appellation Pomerol, with GM/ Winemaker Marielle Cazaux - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Tour with Dany Rolland: Château Le Bon Pasteur in Pomerol– Bordeaux Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Lunch at Château Le Bon Pasteur, Pomerol, with Dany Rolland and Benoit Prévot - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017, France

Tasting with Joël and Sandrine Duffau at Château La Mothe du Barry and Château Les Arromans in the Heart of the Entre-Deux-Mers Region - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017, France

Visiting and Tasting at Château Climens, with Owner Bérénice Lurton, Bordeaux, France

Lunch at Restaurant Claude Darroze, 1 Star Michelin, in Langon, with Jean-Charles Darroze - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Visit: Château de Chantegrive, Appellation Grave, with Owner Marie-Hélène Lévêque - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Schiller's Favorite Seafood Restaurants in Arcachon and Cap Ferret (Bassin d'Arcachon/ Bordeaux)

Visiting an Oyster Farm at Arcachon Bay, Bordeaux: Raphael Doerfler at Earl Ostrea Chanca - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Lunch at Pinasse Café, Cap Ferret - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

The 5 Premiers Grands Crus Chateaux en 1855 of Bordeaux, France

What is a Bordeaux Cru Bourgeois? France

Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Château Brane-Cantenac with Henri Luston, Owner - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Tour, Tasting and Lunch at Château Kirwan, Appellation Margaux, 3ième Grand Cru Classé, with Owner Natalie Schyler - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Visit and Tasting at Château Poujeaux, Appellation Moulis-en-Médoc, Cru Bourgeois, with Winemaker Christophe Labenne - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France

How a Barrel is Made: Visit of the Cooperage Berger & Fils in Vertheuil, with General Manager Simon Grelier – Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Tour and Tasting at Château Lafon-Rochet with Owner Michel Tesseron – Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Tour and Tasting at Château Montrose, Appellation Saint-Estèphe, 2ième Grand Cru Classé

Tour, Barrel Tasting and Family Dinner at Château Le Reysse, Vignobles Paeffgen, Appellation Médoc, with Owner/ Winemaker Stefan Paeffgen 

Tour and Tasting at Château Léoville Poyferré, Saint-Julien, 2ième Grand Cru Classé, with Didier and Anne Cuvelier

Tour and Tasting at Château Pichon-Longueville Baron in Pauillac - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Lunch at Château Pichon-Longueville-Baron with Chef à Domicile Bernadet Damien - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Tour and Tasting at Château Beychevelle, Appellation Saint-Julien, 4ième Grand Cru Classé, with General Manager Philippe Blanc

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Tour and Wine Dinner at Château Haut-Bailly, Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017, France




Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Münzberg/ Gunter Kessler in Landau-Godramstein, Pfalz, with Owner/ Winemaker Gunter Kessler - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

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Picture: Tasting at Weingut Münzberg/ Gunter Kessler in Landau-Godramstein, Pfalz, with Owner/ Winemaker Gunter Kessler

Weingut Münzberg was the first stop on that last day in the Pfalz; we also visited Weingut Rings and Weingut Krebs in the afternoon.

At Weingut Münzberg, we toured the winery and were treated to tasting with 18 wines. We met Friedrich Kessler (who is slated to take over in a few years) in the cellar and father Gunter Kessler (who is currently in charge) during the tasting.
Pictures: Weingut Münzberg

Weingut Münzberg

Godramstein is a typical wine village in the Pfalz. A bit further from the village center in north-west direction sits the “Münzberg”. The hill was named “Münzberg” (hill of the coins) when at this site coins from Roman times were discovered.

Jakob Kessler, great-grandfather of Gunter Kessler, the current owner, realized the value of the Münzberg vineyard sites and bought several parcels in the late 19th century.

Pictures: At Weingut Münzberg/ Gunter Kessler in Landau-Godramstein, Pfalz, with Owner/ Winemaker Gunter Kessler

In 1974 Lothar Kessler moved the wine estate out of the village to the foot of the Münzberg in the mids of his vines. The distinctive appearance of the estate reminds of some wineries in the US with its sleek architecture.

The estate’s present appearance is the result of reconstruction and expansion carried out by the architect Rolf Thorn between 1989 and 2000.

Until 2013, for 23 years, the winery was lead by Gunter Kessler and his brother Rainer Kessler. Rainer Kessler left the winery because of a different vision as to where Weingut Münzberg should go. As a result, Weingut Münzberg suffered quite a bit in terms of its reputation but is fully back on track with the father/ son team Gunter and Friedrich Kessler at the helm of Weingut Münzberg.

Pictures: At Weingut Münzberg/ Gunter Kessler in Landau-Godramstein, Pfalz, with Junior Boss Friedrich Kessler

The philosophy of the Kesslers: “In the cellar we complete what nature started. It is the art of the winemaker to conserve the good characteristics of the berries.” The Kesselers produce distinctive wines that are rich in character and reflect their origins in the chalky parcels of the Münzberg.

Weingut Münzberg is a member of the winemaker group 5 Winzer - 5 Freunde/ 5 winemakers - 5 friends. The other members are: Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz, Weingut Friedrich Becker, Weingut Siegrist and Weingut Dr. Wehrheim. These are all highly regarded winemakers and belong to the elite in the Pfalz region.

Pictures: Tour of Weingut Münzberg/ Gunter Kessler in Landau-Godramstein, Pfalz

Weingut Münzberg

Owner: Gunter und Friedrich Keßler

Winemaker: Nico Keßler

Outside Manager: Gunter und Nico Keßler

VDP member since 2000

Bottle production: 120 000

Grape varieties: 31% Pinot Blanc, 19% Riesling, 16% Spätburgunder as well as Grauburgunder, Silvaner, Chardonnay, Dornfelder, Müller-Thurgau, Gewürztraminer

Soil: Kalkmergel, steinige, teils tonige, sehr kalkreiche Lehm-Lößböden

Pictures: Tasting

The Wines we Tasted

2016 Weingut Münzberg/ Gunter Kessler Riesling Kalkgestein VDP.Ortswein

2015 Weingut Münzberg/ Gunter Kessler Riesling Kalkgestein VDP.Ortswein


2016 Weingut Münzberg/ Gunter Kessler Weisser Burgunder VDP.Gutswein

2013 Weingut Münzberg/ Gunter Kessler Godramsteiner Ochsenloch Weisser Burgunder VDP.Erste Lage

2016 Weingut Münzberg/ Gunter Kessler Godramsteiner Ochsenloch Weisser Burgunder VDP.Erste Lage

2015 Weingut Münzberg/ Gunter Kessler Godramsteiner Ochsenloch Weisser Burgunder VDP.Erste Lage

2014 Weingut Münzberg/ Gunter Kessler Godramsteiner Ochsenloch Weisser Burgunder VDP.Erste Lage

2016 Weingut Münzberg/ Gunter Kessler Weisser Burgunder Löss-Lehm VDP.Ortswein

2015 Weingut Münzberg/ Gunter Kessler Weisser Burgunder Löss-Lehm VDP.Ortswein


2015 Weingut Münzberg/ Gunter Kessler Chardonnay Kalkmergel VDP.Ortswein

2015 Weingut Münzberg/ Gunter Kessler Godramsteiner Stahlbühl Chardonnay VDP.Erste Lage

2014 Weingut Münzberg/ Gunter Kessler Spätburgunder VDP.Gutswein

2012 Weingut Münzberg/ Gunter Kessler Spätburgunder Kalkgestein VDP.Ortswein

2012 Weingut Münzberg/ Gunter Kessler Spätburgunder Godramsteiner Münzberg Schlangenpfiff GG VDP.Grosse Lage


Bye-bye

Many thanks for this impressive tasting.

Pictures: Bye-bye

schiller-wine: All Postings (Published and Forthcoming): Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: Baden, Alsace, Pfalz and Rheinhessen

Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: Baden, Alsace, Pfalz and Rheinhessen

Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour (and Lunch) with Robert Schätzle, Owner/ Winemaker, Weingut Schloss Neuweier in Baden - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

La Cucina della Passione and Weingut Schloss Neuweier Wines: Wine Pairing Lunch at Röttele’s Restaurant (1 Star Michelin) at Schloss Neuweier, with Owner and Winemaker Robert Schätzle, Weingut Schloss Neuweier - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

The Music of the A Cappella Ensemble "Männer und Tenöre" and the Wines of Weingut Aufricht, Lake Constance, Baden, with Manfred Aufricht - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

The Evolving Structure of the Wine Industry in Germany– The Case of the Lake Constance Region

Schloss Salem at Lake Constance in Germany: A Museum, a School and a Wine Estate

Visit of Schloss Salem, Kirche Birnau and Weingut Markgraf von Baden - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

The Wines of the Markgräflerland (Baden): Tasting and Cellar Tour at Weingut Löffler - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Tasting and Cellar Tour at Weingut Stigler, Baden, with Andreas, Regina and Max Stigler - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Dinner at Restaurant Schwarzer Adler, 1 Star Michelin, Oberbergen, Kaiserstuhl, Baden - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars and Wine Taverns in Freiburg, Baden, Germany

The World Class Wines of Alsace

In the world class white wine region Alsace

Tasting at Domaine Marcel Deiss in Bergheim, Alsace - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Lunch in Alsace: Wistube du Sommelier in Bergheim and L’Epicurien in Colmar - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Tasting at Domaine Dirler-Cadé with Jean Pierre Dirler and Ludevine Dirler-Cadé - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Tour and Tasting at Domaines Schlumberger in Guebwiller, Alsace - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Tour and Tasting at Hugel in Riquewhir, Alsace, with Jean Frédéric Hugel - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Dinner at the 1 Michelin Star Restaurant L’Achémille in Kaysersberg, with Owner/ Chef Jérome Jaegle - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Wine Lunch at Weingut Jülg with Johannes Jülg– Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Tasting at Maison Jülg in Seebach, Alsace, with Peter Jülg - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Schiller's Favorite (Wine-) Restaurants in Deidesheim in the Pfalz, Germany

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz in Siebeldingen, Pfalz, with Hansjörg and Valentin Rebholz and Sabine Wagner - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Münzberg – Lothar Kesseler & Söhne in Landau-Godramstein, Pfalz, with Friedrich and Gunter Kesseler

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Rings in Freinsheim, Pfalz, with Andi Rings

Tasting at Weingut Krebs in Freinsheim, Pfalz, with Jürgen Krebs

Tasting at Sekthaus Raumland in Flörsheim-Dalsheim, Rheinhessen, with Heide-Rose and Volker Raumland

Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Philipp Wittmann and Eva Clüsserath-Wittmann at Weingut Wittmann in Westhofen – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2014)

Cellar Tourvisit and Tasting at Weingut Gröbe in Westhofen, Rheinhessen, with Fritz Gröbe

Cellar Tour and Wine Pairing Lunch at Weingut Louis Guntrum in Nierstein, Rheinhessen, with Konstantin and Stephanie Guntrum



Stefan and Heike Paeffgen, Château Le Reysse and Château Lassus, Vignobles Paeffgen, Appellation Médoc - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017, France

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Picture: Ann Sweeney Zirkle and Denman Zirkle, Weingut Richard Böcking, Mosel, Stefan Paeffgen and Christian Schiller Having Dinner at Château Lassus, Vignobles Paeffgen

Following the visit of Château Montrose, we drove up to Bégadan for dinner with Stefan and Heike Paeffgen, Vignobles Paeffgen.

Stefan Paeffgen is a career changer who has been making wine only for a few years. Stefan Paeffgen holds a Doctorate in agricultural science and in another life worked in the agriculture industry in his home country Germany and in Scandinavia. He always had a passion for the wines of the Médoc and at age 46, he was at a crossroad and made the decision to go back to practical agriculture. He searched for a winery and finally settled in Bégadan, north of St.-Estèphe.

Today, his Vignobles Paeffgen comprise 4 châteaux: Château Le Reysse and Château Lassus as well as Château Clos du Moulin and Château Moulin de Lestagne.

We had a lovely charcuterie and cheese dinner with Stefan and Heike Paeffgen and there children (who were visiting their parents during school break). Before dinner, Stefan showed us around.

Pictures: Château Le Reysse and Château Lassus, Vignobles Paeffgen

Stefan Paeffgen

Stefan Paeffgen grew up on a farm in Germany, which his older brother took over, when their father retired. Stefan had to look for something different, although he would have loved to take over the family’s property.

Pictures: Stefan Paeffgen

Stefan studied agriculture in München, Stuttgart, Wisconsin, Paris and then worked for a large fertilizer company. He moved up in the company and made good money. There were mergers and was restructuring. At some point, he was offered a golden handshake and started to look for a winery he could take over. In that period, Stefan, his wife and the 3 children were living in Belgium, near Brussels.

In November 2010, he signed a sales contract with Patrick Chaumont, the owner of Vignobles Chaumant (Château Le Reysse and Château Lassus) and moved to Bégadan, initially without his family; by now they are all in Bégadan. In 2012, he also acquired Château Clos du Moulin and Château Moulin de Lestagne from Michel Boyer.

Patrick Chaumont stayed on for 2 years to help. They cooperated wonderfully and Stefan learned to make wines in the traditional style. Patrick Chaumont still visits every now and then to see how things are going.

Pictures: In the Vineyard with Stefan Paeffgen

Château Le Reysse

Patrick Chaumont founded Château Le Reysse in 1983. He withdrew the Château Le Reysse vineyards from the co-op and started to vinify the wines himself. (Château Lassus – see below - remained in the co-op). When his son married into a winery in the southern part of Pauillac, he decided to sell Château Le Reysse (and Château Lassus).

4.5 hectares in Bégadan, partially bordering with the vineyards of Rollan de By and La Tour de By

20.000 – 26.000 bottles, which Stefan Paeffgen sells through the old channels of Patrick Chaumont, but increasingly also through his new channels, primarily in Germany

55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot

Château Lassus

Along with Château Le Reysse, Stefan Paeffgen bought Château Lassus from Patrick Chaumont. The wine is sold en bloc to a Negoçiant in Bordeaux. Here is what the Negoçiant says: Château Lassus, the Chaumont family property since 1967, was mentioned in the first edition of "Bordeaux et ses Vins" edited by Charles Cocks in 1850 and was already listed in the Féret 1939 edition as it had been classified Cru Bourgeois in 1932 for its "terroir" and quality of the wines produced. The estate was taken over by the Paeffgen family in 2010 who has realized large investments since to help the cru maintain its renowned status. The quality focus is realized by sustainable efforts in the vineyards and by strong selection process. Today, Stefan Paeffgen, passionate by wines and fallen in love with this charming property, is in charge of it.

Soil : Clay-gravels / Surface : 25 hectares

Average age of the vineyard : 35 years

Location : The vineyard is located between the Bégadan village and the Gironde River in the Médoc.

Grape varieties : 50 % Merlot / 50 % Cabernet Sauvignon

This wine is vinified by the traditional method, in thermo-regulated concrete and stainless steel vats, after a period of pre-fermentation maceration. Vertical pressing. Ageing for 12 months in new barrels, second-fill and third-fill barrels.

Deep color with garnet highlights. Very aromatic bouquet with touch of blackcurrant and spices. Superb, dense attack with a slightly jammy fruit. The relatively powerful tannic structure shows supple tannins.

Château Clos du Moulin

The roots of Château Clos du Moulin can be traced back to the 19th century. The Boyer family, the former owner, used to live there. Château Clos du Moulin is also a Cru Bourgeois in the original classification of 1932. The Cru Bourgeois status was however lost in 2003. Stephan Paeffgen was successful in regaining it in 2011, after he had taken over.

11 hectares in St. Christoly and Couqueques

45.000 – 56.000 bottles

50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 50% Merlot

Château Moulin de Lestagne

3 hectares in St. Christoly

20.000 bottles

20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 80% Merlot

Pictures: In the Cellar with Stefan Paeffgen

The Wines Stefan Poured

2015 Château Le Reysse (from tank)

In the USA, 2015 Château Le Reysse is available now through Lyle Fass Selections - World Class Artisanal Wines Direct from the Estate at 40% Below Retail

When we tasted the wine, it was in steel tanks. It had been barrel-aged and was sitting in the steel tanks before being bottled.

Lyle Fass: Some of the Most Mineral-Driven Bordeaux I Have Ever Had - Our Most Popular Bordeaux Wines by Far - 2015 is Such a Great Vintage - It Allies Finesse, Power and Freshness - These Wines Have the Balance and Minerality We Love in Other Regions

I think of all the regions where I have carefully put together a small cadre of growers Bordeaux is what I'm most proud of. There is not a ton of Bordeuax love on my list so I offer very few wines but the ones I do offer, I really love.

Bordeaux has the most growers of any wine region in France. There are 50-60 estates everyone knows and always sell. I don't mess with them as the price competition is too intense and I don't want to fall into the "me too" trap; that's not my role in the wine world. You also have a bottom percentage of undeniable undrinkable plonk. Then there is the rest. Finding what is good in the rest means I have to taste a whole bunch of undrinkable plonk and boy did I to find the 3-5 Bordeaux estates I work with. But I love them all dearly and perhaps love today's winery the most.

That is Chateau La Reysse and it's little brother, Clos du Moulin. These are some of the most mineral driven Bordeaux I have ever had, along with being stunningly precise with clear and deep fruit. These are owned and made by a German guy so it has that level of German precision as well. La Reysse and Clos du Moulin remain our most popular Bordeaux wines by far and now I am honored to sell the 2015 vintage. Do not miss these. Value like this in Bordeaux I only offer wines this inexpensive (under $27 and under $20) once a year. These have a following and the email is worth it to me and the company. Below is how it used to go when I tried to sell Bordeaux.

The 2015 Le Reysse for as little as $26.99 a bottle on a 4-Pack has a cooling mineral nose with astonishing depth and purity which gives off an impression of amazing freshness. The palate is pure pleasure with oodles of blue and black fruits, wonderful acids, grippy forceful tannins and a real sense of place. Just an amazingly complex, powerful and delicate bottle of Bordeaux. You also get cigar, leather, tobacco and some nice wet earth as well. I can see this aging for up to 20 years. 2015 is such a great vintage as it allies finesse, power and freshness all at once. Freshness is so key in Bordeaux as wines can tend to be lactic, oaky and rich due to a general change in winemaking over the last 20-30 years. This is not that at all, this is what Bordeaux should be at $27 a bottle but rarely if ever is. At La Reysse in 2015 they had an issue with the Cabernet Sauvignon as much of it was contaminated by a hydraulic press machine used in picking, (luckily insurance covered it) but they are down 60% in 2015. So the assemblage is different than in other years.

Pictures: Tasting Château Le Reysse 2015

The 2015 La Reysse is a perfect example of why 2015 Bordeaux is being compared to the greatest vintages of the past 100 years. 2010, 2005, 2000, 1982, 1961, 1945, 1929 are widely considered the top 7 vintages of the last 100 years. Pricing will reflect that if you are so inclined to search. But what marks a great Bordeaux vintage in my mind, is the little wines were incredible. And La Reysse from the Medoc has it all. Freshness, amazing depth of fruit and structure, perfect balance, big sweet tannins all at an affordable tariff make the 2015 La Reysse one hell of a wine. It is 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 42% Merlot and 8% Cabernet Franc. The Cabernet Franc is also of note as it is the first time they have used it. The vines are over 100 years old and from a vineyard they got that was not in too great shape, but they persisted and it was worth it and now it's very low yielding and super high quality. In normal years they will be about 2% of the assemblage but it is 8% in 2015 due to the losses of the Cabernet Sauvignon. The wine is insane and totally unique. Nose has violets and the classic deep mineral drive of La Reysse. Also deep cassis and black berry fruit. Elegantly framed by well integrated wood. Also floral and red cherries add complexity. Wonderful combo of fruit and mineral. Both wafting and competing for your olfactory senses. The palate is lively and fresh as La Reysse is and should be. The tannins are so soft and juicy yet also asserting authority. Huge minerals throughout the midpalate and long persistent finish. The wine has improved so much since Stefan has been in charge of the estate with 2010 being his debut vintage. The wine soaks your palate with fruit like only Bordeaux can. Remarkable wine and the best La Reysse ever.

2016 Château Le Reysse (from barrel)

We tasted the 2016 Château Le Reysse from barrel in the barrel cellar; it was still in the barrel-aging phase.

Pictures: Tasting 2016 Château Le Reysse from Barrel

2014 Château Le Reysse

We tasted the 2014, 2012, 2011 Château Le Reysse during dinner.

Picture: 2014 Château Le Reysse

2012 Château Le Reysse

27.000 bottles

60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot

20 months in barrique

Yves Beck: Le Reysse 2012, AOC Médoc Violet intensif. Nez de bonne intensité, fin et complexe. Notes de cannelle, clou de girofle, cacao et fruits noirs (mûre, myrtille, cassis). En bouche l'attaque est minérale avec des notes de graphite. Le corps est légèrement gras et la structure se révèle tardivement. Les tannins sont granuleux, élégants. Beau potentiel de garde. 89-90/100. 2018-2032

Picture: 2012 Château Le Reysse

2011 Château Le Reysse

Picture: 2011 Château Le Reysse

Dinner

We had a lovely and very lively dinner in the Päffgen family home, with Stefan and Heike Paeffgen and there children (who were visiting their parents during school break).

Pictures: Dinner with the Paeffgen Family

Dinner 2 Years Before (ombiasy Bordeaux Tour 2015)

On the visit 2 years before, we also had a lovely dinner. It was warmer and we were able to sit outside. See: Wine Dinner with Stefan and Heike Paeffgen, Château Le Reysse and Château Clos du Moulin, Vignobles Paeffgen, Appellation Médoc– Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Pictures: Wine Dinner with Stefan and Heike Paeffgen, Château Le Reysse and Château Clos du Moulin, Vignobles Paeffgen, Appellation Médoc

Total Immersion in Bordeaux: World Class Wines and Exquisite French Gourmet Cuisine - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France Published and Forthcoming Postings)

Total Immersion in Bordeaux: World Class Wines and Exquisite French Gourmet Cuisine - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Bordeaux Wine Tour 2013 by ombiasy

Bordeaux Wines and their Classifications: The Basics

Tour and Tasting at Château La Mission Haut-Brion, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Cru Classé de Grave - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Dinner with a View: At Restaurant L’Estacade in Bordeaux City - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux City - An Update

Schiller’s Favorite Seafood Places in Bordeaux City, France - An Update

Bordeaux - En Primeur, Negociants, Courtiers, the Quai de Chartons and the Place de Bordeaux– A Short Introduction

How Does the Negociant System in Bordeaux Work? Tour and Tasting at Millésima - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Saint Emilion Wines and their Classification, Bordeaux, France

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in St. Emilion, France

Bio in Bordeaux: Cellar Tour, Vineyard Tour and Winepairing Lunch at Chateau Beauséjour and Château Langais, AOC Puisseguin-St.Emilion, with Owner/ Winemaker Gérard Dupuy - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Tour and Tasting at Château Cheval Blanc, Appellation Saint-Emilion, Premier Grand Cru Classé A - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Tour and Tasting at Château La Conseillante, Appellation Pomerol, with GM/ Winemaker Marielle Cazaux - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Tour with Dany Rolland: Château Le Bon Pasteur in Pomerol– Bordeaux Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Lunch at Château Le Bon Pasteur, Pomerol, with Dany Rolland and Benoit Prévot - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017, France

Tasting with Joël and Sandrine Duffau at Château La Mothe du Barry and Château Les Arromans in the Heart of the Entre-Deux-Mers Region - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017, France

Visiting and Tasting at Château Climens, with Owner Bérénice Lurton, Bordeaux, France

Lunch at Restaurant Claude Darroze, 1 Star Michelin, in Langon, with Jean-Charles Darroze - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Visit: Château de Chantegrive, Appellation Grave, with Owner Marie-Hélène Lévêque - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Schiller's Favorite Seafood Restaurants in Arcachon and Cap Ferret (Bassin d'Arcachon/ Bordeaux)

Visiting an Oyster Farm at Arcachon Bay, Bordeaux: Raphael Doerfler at Earl Ostrea Chanca - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Lunch at Pinasse Café, Cap Ferret - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

The 5 Premiers Grands Crus Chateaux en 1855 of Bordeaux, France

What is a Bordeaux Cru Bourgeois? France

Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Château Brane-Cantenac with Henri Luston, Owner - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Tour, Tasting and Lunch at Château Kirwan, Appellation Margaux, 3ième Grand Cru Classé, with Owner Natalie Schyler - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Visit and Tasting at Château Poujeaux, Appellation Moulis-en-Médoc, Cru Bourgeois, with Winemaker Christophe Labenne - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France

How a Barrel is Made: Visit of the Cooperage Berger & Fils in Vertheuil, with General Manager Simon Grelier – Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Tour and Tasting at Château Lafon-Rochet with Owner Michel Tesseron – Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Tour and Tasting at Château Montrose, Appellation Saint-Estèphe, 2ième Grand Cru Classé - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Tour, Barrel Tasting and Family Dinner at Château Le Reysse, Vignobles Paeffgen, Appellation Médoc, with Owner/ Winemaker Stefan Paeffgen

Tour and Tasting at Château Léoville Poyferré, Saint-Julien, 2ième Grand Cru Classé, with Didier and Anne Cuvelier

Tour and Tasting at Château Pichon-Longueville Baron in Pauillac - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Lunch at Château Pichon-Longueville-Baron with Chef à Domicile Bernadet Damien - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Tour and Tasting at Château Beychevelle, Appellation Saint-Julien, 4ième Grand Cru Classé, with General Manager Philippe Blanc

Visit and Tasting: Château Smith-Haut-Lafitte, Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé– Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Tour and Lunch at Château Malartic-Lagravière, Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé

Tour and Wine Dinner at Château Haut-Bailly, Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017, France

JJ Prüm Winemaker Dinner at BToo in Washington DC/ USA, with Wilhelm Steifensand ("Herr Prüm") and Chef Bart Vandaele

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Picture: Wilhelm Steifensand ("Herr Prüm") and Owner/ Chef Bart Vandaele at BToo in Washington DC/ USA

Wilhelm Steifensand was in town (Washington DC) to present the world class wines of Weingut JJ Prüm at a winemaker dinner at BToo on 14th Street, NW.

Wilhelm Steifensand is best known for having been the owner and Managing Director of the P.J.Valckenberg Wine Merchant House from 1988 until 2011. He sold the P.J.Valckenberg Wine Merchant House in 2015. He kept Weingut Liebfraustift in Worms of which he presented one wine. Recently, he married into the J.J. Prüm family and became "Herr Prüm" as husband of Dr. Katharina Prüm.

Chef Bart Vandaele's BToo on 14th Street in Washington DC, NW, is a leading restaurant in the Nation's Capital.

Pictures: BToo on 14th Street, Washington DC, NW

Weingut JJ Prüm

Weingut Joh. Jos. Prüm is without doubt one of the most exceptional producers of wine in Germany. Although the Prüm family was well established as viticulturists and winemakers, having been tending vines along the banks of the Mosel since the 17th Century, the Joh. Jos. Prüm estate only came into being in 1911, when the property was divided up among seven heirs. One of them, Johann Josef Prüm (died 1944), laid the foundation for the estate as it is today, his son Sebastian (died 1969) continued his work. Today it is run by the third generation, Dr. Manfred and Amei Prüm, and fourth generation, Dr. Katharina Prüm and her husband Wilhelm Steifensand, who was our host.

Today there are at least seven wineries that bear the Prüm name several generations later: including Alfred Prüm, Dr. F. Weins-Prüm, Jos. Christoffel Jr. (formerly Christoffel-Prüm), Studert-Prüm, Weingut Steffen Prüm, S.A. Prüm, and J.J. Prüm. Several more Prüm intermarriages and mergers are also responsible for several more prominent names in German wine, including Weingut Dr. Loosen and Weingut Robert Weil.

Picture: Prüm Family Tree

The estate has 20 hectares of vineyards planted with Riesling. The Joh. Jos. Prüm portfolio includes a number of great vineyards, but it is undoubtedly the vines in the Wehlener Sonnenuhr on the opposite bank to the town of Wehlen and the Graacher Himmelreich that are most readily associated with the estate.

Pictures: Wilhelm Steifensand with Annette Schiller and Christian Schiller at BToo

Naturally Sweet Rieslings

The Riesling vines of Weingut JJ Pruem are grown on the region's decomposed blue slate soils, at incredibly steep inclines. The vines are own-rooted (non-grafted). Grapes are meticulously hand harvested and destemmed before being gently crushed into steel tanks where they ferment almost always with native yeasts before being moved into 50-plus-year-old, 1000-liter oak casks where they age until bottling. There is minimal CO2 pumping. These are wines of great aristocracy, renowned for their precision, focus and finesse. The JJ Prüm wines have a reputation for being very long-lived.

Stuart Pigott: 10 Things Every Wine lover Should Know About... J.J. Prüm

wine.searcher December 12, 2013

No. 1. Mosel idol: Take a look at Wine-Searcher's summary of the world's 50 most expensive wines, and you'll find that none has as many white wines listed as Weingut Joh. Jos. Prüm. This estate, located in the village of Wehlen in Germany's Mosel wine region, is also known to wine lovers around the world as “J.J. Prüm,” or simply “J.J.”

Its Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese (TBA) takes 6th place in the most-expensive list, with an average price of $5,647. At no. 32 is the estate's Riesling Beerenauslese (BA), and the Riesling Eiswein is at 43. All of these wines are from the famous Wehlener Sonnenuhr vineyard site.

Recent auction results at Zachy’s give an idea of J.J. Prüm's desirability. In September, 12 bottles of 1983 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese "Gold Cap" sold for $2,450, and at the La Paulée auction in March two lots of 3 bottles of 1959 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling TBA each went for $15,925.

What makes this achievement all the more remarkable is the fact that as a category, sweet whites still struggle to gain the popular recognition which experts accord them, and all the “J.J.” wines stand out for their finesse and delicacy rather than their power.

Pictures: Wilhelm Steifensand, Chef Bart Vandaele, Laurent Lala (Elite Wines) and Annette Schiller at BToo

No. 2. It's all about longevity: It’s not without justification that wine lovers and collectors are skeptical about the aging potential of white wines – just think of how many white Burgundies of excellent provenance from vintages in the 1990s faded prematurely. What has won the J.J. wines their global following is a flawless track record on aging. Even the basic Joh.Jos. Prüm Riesling Kabinett, which retails for an average $25 excl. tax, will keep for at least five to ten years if well cellared. The Riesling Kabinett from the famous Wehlener Sonnenuhr site will keep much longer, with the 1981 Riesling Kabinett from J.J. still tasting lively.

The higher you climb up the ladder of the Prädikat system (in ascending order of sweetness and price, the classifications are Spätlese, Auslese, BA, TBA/eiswein) the longer the wines need to reach their best form and the longer they will keep. The top wines of the 1930s, '40s and '50s are still generally in excellent condition, though extremely hard to find.

Pictures: Weingut Joh. Jos. Prüm/ Mosel

No. 3. "Struck-match" aroma: Even some of the world’s most influential wine critics have been mistaken about the distinctive "struck-match" aroma of young J.J. wines. It is not caused by sulfites, as commonly supposed (these wines having no more added sulfites than most other rieslings from the Mosel).

J.J. has a tradition of always doing wild yeast fermentation, and of minimal handling of the young wines in order to preserve their more delicate aromas and freshness – for which the technical term is reductive winemaking. Put very simply, oxidation accelerates the aging process while reduction puts the brakes on. Certainly, the residual fermentation aroma which the J.J. wines have when they come onto the market isn’t always appealing to those unfamiliar with it. But if this aroma were to be knocked out of them in the cellar, then they wouldn’t have that amazing aging potential and would also lose aroma as a result.

The struck-match scent naturally disappears with bottle aging. The lighter wines need some months for this process, while some of the high-end wines require a couple of years before their peach, exotic fruit and floral aromas properly unfold.

Picture: Christian Schiller and Joh. Jos. Prüm at Weingut JJ Prüm (2016). See: See: Tasting at the Legendary Weingut J.J. Prüm with Amei Prüm– Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016

No. 4. Staying sweet: Every now and again, the estate produces a dry wine in response to requests from particular clients and when the vintage makes this possible (they always choose grapes with no botrytis). However, these wines are almost never exported. Director Dr. Katharina Prüm isn’t fundamentally against dry rieslings from the Mosel, but she told Wine-Searcher: “This isn’t our main thing, and I don’t want to make it that, because obviously Joh. Jos. Prüm stands for the sweet wines."

Pictures: Tasting with Amei Prüm at Weingut JJ Prüm. See: Tasting at the Legendary Weingut J.J. Prüm with Amei Prüm– Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016

No. 5. Barely a century old: Joh. Jos. Prüm was founded in 1911, and it wasn’t until the 1920 and '21 vintages that the first sweet Auslese wines were produced. The first BA followed in 1934, and the first TBAs in 1937 and '38. World War II seriously interrupted the estate’s development (there was no harvest at all in 1945), but with the 1949 vintage it was back on course with great Auslese, a BA, two TBAs and the estate’s first eiswein (made from grapes picked frozen by accident!).

Picture: Christian Schiller with Katharina Prüm at Wegmans in Virginia (2011)

Picture: Manfred Pruem and Annette Schiller at Weingut Robert Weil/ Rheingau

Picture: Christian Schiller with Manfred Pruem (2011)

No. 6. Pivotal trio: Although many people have worked with dedication to quality at the estate since 1920, and continue to do so, just three members of the Prüm family have steered J.J. during that period. The first of these was Sebastian Alois Prüm (1902–1969), who started working at the estate aged just 18. After his sudden death in early 1969, he was followed by his son Dr. Manfred Prüm. Since 2003, Manfred has been assisted by his elder daughter, Katharina, and the first vintage which she was properly responsible for was 2007. By the way, she and her father are both doctors of law, not medicine or winemaking.

Pictures: JJ Prüm Winemaker Dinner at BToo in Washington DC/ USA, with Wilhelm Steifensand ("Herr Prüm") and Chef Bart Vandaele

No. 7. At J.J., the times are NOT a changin’: “My role isn’t to change the Joh. Jos. Prüm wines,” Katharina told Wine-Searcher. She made it plain that so far she’s only made small adjustments and doesn’t expect to make many more. The only one you might have noticed is that there’s now a clearer difference in sweetness levels between the (drier) Kabinett and (sweeter) Spätlese wines.

Customers who drink the drier styles are quite different from those buying Prüm’s rieslings at the sweeter end of the spectrum. Jeff Zacharia sells J.J. Prüm through Zachy's Scarsdale retail store and at auction. He explained that in the retail area, interest is focused on recent vintages of the estate’s kabinett and spätlese, whereas “interest at auction is much more geared towards the limited production sweet wines – so auslese and TBA."

Zacharia added: "The buyer base tends to be a smaller percentage of our clients who seek a variety of the most renowned wines in the world, including the best of Germany. I see this as a niche market composed of highly knowledgeable connoisseurs with a well-rounded passion for the best producers and vintage.“

Pictures: Wilhelm Steifensand ("Herr Prüm") and Chef Bart Vandaele at BToo

No. 8. Other great vineyards: The precipitously steep, southwest-facing Wehlener Sonnenuhr, with its grey slate soil, is certainly the most important vineyard site for the estate, accounting for almost 20 of its 50 acres of vines. However, in some vintages the wines from the J.J. holdings in the Graacher Himmelreich site (almost southwest facing and very steep) are as good as those from the Wehlener Sonnenuhr – although they sell for somewhat lower prices.

Occasionally, there are also spectacular wines from other sites, such as the 2006 Riesling BA from the Bernkasteler Badstube. In that case, the grapes were so heavily botrytized that almost none of the labor-intensive and time-consuming selective picking usually necessary to produce such a wine was needed.

Pictures: Annette Schiller and Chef Bart Vandaele

No. 9. Not every Prüm estate is J.J.: The Prüm family has been in Wehlen since at least the late 18th century, so the family has many branches and there are a handful of other estates in the town with Prüm in their name. There are also a couple of producers outside Wehlen entitled to include the family in their estate names. Some have chosen to remove any mention of the Prüm connection from the label in order to avoid confusion, like Dr. Loosen in Bernkastel. Others keep the name, such as the Dr. F. Wein-Prüm estate run by Bert Selbach next door to J.J. on the Uferallee, the riverbank street of Wehlen.

In both of these cases the quality is high, but the wines have rather different styles from the Mosel rieslings made by Dr. Katharina Prüm.

Pictures: Chef Bart Vandaele atBToo

10. What does the Prüm family drink? Asked about her preference for current drinking is, Katharina said: "At the moment, mostly 2004, ’07 and ’08. Of course, I enjoy older vintages when they’re available. If our stocks from the 1990s and '80s were larger I’d drink those wines more often!”

Those three vintages of the last decade were all very good, although even 2007 doesn’t quite belong up there with 1949, '59, '71, '76, '90 or '05 (the greatest vintages for the estate). The main advantage of such years is that the wines are not quite so powerful or concentrated, and therefore have a harmony that makes them extremely appealing after only a few years of bottle-aging. The excellent 1988s, '89s and great '90s are now at their best, except at the BA and TBA level. However, these wines are now hard to find and command serious prices due to the reputations of those vintages.

Although all these wines are sweet, the Prüm family often drinks them at the dinner table with guests. Hard as it might be to imagine, an auslese with some bottle age is a great match with roast venison or wild boar! That’s a classic combination for the Prüms.

Pictures: Wilhelm Steifensand at BToo

Dr. Katharina Prüm and Wilhelm Steifensand

Dr. Katharina Prüm is the oldest of three daughters of Amei and Dr. Manfred Prüm. She joined her father in running the family estate in 2003. Katharina is the great-grand daughter of the estate’s founder Weingut Joh. Jos. Prüm. After completing her doctorate in German civil law (Die Folgen der Verletzung des Umgangsrechts. Dissertation von Katharina Prüm. Verlag Dr. Kovač, Hamburg 2006), Katharina devoted her energy and time to the estate as ambassador and joint winemaker, together with her father, Dr. Manfred Prüm.

Not so long ago, she married Wilhelm Steifensand. Their first child, a daughter, was borne 5 months ago.

Wilhelm Steifensand is a seventh-generation descendant of P.J.Valckenberg, who founded the P.J.Valckenberg Wine Merchant House in 1786. Until Wilhelm Steifensand sold the company in 2015, Valckenberg was the oldest family owned wine merchant in Germany. Royal dynasties and many renowned personalities of the times are Valckenberg customers. The Valckenberg headquaters is in the city of Worms. The P.J.Valckenberg Merchant House is now owned and run by Peter Bohn and Tilman Queins.

Picture: Katharina Prüm and Wilhelm Steifensand at Weingut JJ Prüm (Photo: Facebook)

Weingut Liebfrauenstift, Madonna and Liebfraumilch

When Wilhelm Steifensand sold the P.J.Valckenberg Wine Merchant House, he kept its crwown jewel, Weingut Liebfraustift in Worms.

After the Dutch merchant Peter Joseph Valckenberg had founded the P.J.Valckenberg Wine Merchant House in 1786, 2 decades later in 1808, P. J. Valckenberg moved on to producing wine and established Weingut Liebfrauenstift, by buying the remaining part of the Capuchin Monastery Liebfrauenstift in Worms and most of the vineyards surrounding the Liebfrauenkirche in Worms, in the wake of secularization.

The Capuchin Monastery Liebfrauenstift and the gothic Liebfrauenkirche, which Capucin monks had build in the 1400s, had always been an important stopping point along the pilgrim route to Santiago di Compostela in north-west Spain. Pilgrims are said to have very much liked the wine produced by the monks and compared it to the “milk of Our Dear Lady” - thus Liebfraumilch was born!

Thanks to his excellent business connections, the House of Valckenberg was soon exporting its Liebfrauenmilch to all continents, including China - in those days part of the British Empire. In 1840, when Britain’s Queen Victoria married Prince Albert of Saxe-Coburg-Gotha, they had Liebfrauenmilch for lunch. Other early customers included the Swedish royal family, the Duke of Norfolk and the writer Charles Dickens. By 1900, the British trading company Berry Brothers & Rudd sold Liebfrauenmilch in the same price range as Château Margaux and Château d'Yquem in Bordeaux.

But in the 1800s, there were no production regulations in Germany, so that production of wine under the name Liebfraumilch could spread along the Rhine, losing any link with the original vineyard in Worms. As a result, by the time of Germany’s wine law of 1908, Liebfraumilch was designated a regional wine, rather than a vineyard-specific wine, while the original Liebfrauenmilch vineyard in Worms was renamed Liebfrauenstift-Kirchenstück.

As a consequence, from 1908 onwards, Valckenberg sold the wines from the original Liebfraumilch site around the Liebfrauenkirche as single-vineyard wines Liebfrauenstift-Kirchenstueck and Liebfrauenmilch wines from vineyards in the vicinity of Worms (in Rheinhessen) with the byname Madonna - to distinguish them from other Liebfrauenmilch wines. Madonna is Germany’s oldest brand name for wine. In the 1920s, Valckenberg extend the Madonna brand to wines with higher sugar content at harvest, i.e. Kabinett, Spaetlese and Auslese.

The 1971 wine law made Liebfraumilch an even larger regional wine, able to be produced not only in Rheinhessen, but also in the Pfalz, Rheingau and the Nahe. At the same time, the 1971 wine law stipulated that a Liebfraumilch had to be a QbA wine.

Today, Liebfraumilch bears no relationship to the original vineyard in Worms and has become over the years a fruity-sweet style, uncomplicated and easy to drink, from Rheinhessen, Pfalz, Rheingau or Nahe, always at the QbA level. It is a wine that is mainly produced for export, with the UK and Russia being strong markets.

P.J. Valckenberg continues to produce and export their Madonna line, starting from Madonna Liebfraumilch QbA to Madonna Kabinett, Madonna Spätlese, Madonna Auslese up to Madonna Eiswein, with the grapes coming from Rheinhessen.

Picture: Weingut Liebfrauenstift in Worms, Germany. See: Meeting Valckenberg Owner Wilhelm Steifensand and Tasting his Wines

The Dinner

The Dinner was outstanding. It took place in a separate room in the basement that is perfect for special events like winemaker dinners. There were 60 guests. Chef Bart Vandaele guided us through the evening, Wilhelm Steifensand provided most entertaining and informative comments about the wines.  

Menu



First Course

Smoked eel, pickled mussels on a toast, black radish


Weingut Liebfrauenstift, Rheinhessen, Dry Riesling 2015


Second Course

Grilled Hiramasa kingfish, dulse, citrus, cilantro oil


Joh. Jos. Prüm Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett 2015


Third Course

Roasted diver scallops, roasted salsify,  crème fraîche


Joh. Jos. Prüm Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese 2016


Fourth Course

Guinea hen, roasted parsnip, pear, black trumpets


Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese 2016


Fifth Course

Banana pie, almond-cocoa crust, sunchoke ice cream, orange oil


Joh. Johs. Prüm Bernkasteler Badstube Auslese 2015


Chef Bart Vandaele's BToo

Chef Bart Vandaele's BToo on 14th Street in Washington DC, NW, is a leading restaurant in the Nation's Capital. Annette Schiller and I love to go to winemaker dinners at BToo and organize ouerselves winemaker dinners there. The food of BToo Chef Dieter Samyn and Belga Cafe/ BToo Executive Chef Bart Vandaele is always most creative and delicious. Chef Bart is a fun guy to hang around with and guide us through the evening. And BToo has a separate room in the basement that is perfect for special events like winemaker dinners.

Picture: Fuad Issa, Annette Schiller, Bart M. Vandaele, Christian Schiller, Laurant Lala, Elite Wines, Etienne Verdier, Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard and Greet De Keyser, Bart M. Vandaele's Partner. See: Chef Bart M. Vandaele Celebrated the 2 Year Anniversary of his B Too Restaurant with the Wines of Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard from Chablis, USA/France

Chef Dieter Samyn

Dieter Samyn was born and raised in Belgium. As a graduate of the Hotelschool Ter duinen, after several internships at Michelin starred restaurants in France, Spain and Belgium, he started working for Alain Ducasse, a 3 star Michelin chef, where he worked at Le Louis XV, Le Plaza Athenee and Spoon. From there he went to Peter Goossens, another 3 star Michelin chef located in Belgium, where he worked with for 4 years. In 2013, he joint Chef Bart at B Too.

Pictures: Annette Schiller, Christian Schiller and Chef Dieter Samyn

Thanks

Thanks Chef Bart Vandaele and Chef Dieter Samyn as well as Rinata Gafarova for this outstanding event.

Pictures: The End - Chef Bart Vandaele, Chef Dieter Samyn and Rinata Gafarova

schiller-wine: Related Postings

Ombiasy Wine Tours 2018: 3 x France and 3 x Germany - Ombiasy Newsletter December 2017

Tasting at the Legendary Weingut J.J. Prüm with Amei Prüm– Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016

JJ Pruem Goes Supermarket: Meeting Katharina Pruem and Tasting the Incredible JJ Pruem Wines at Wegmans

Meeting Valckenberg Owner Wilhelm Steifensand and Tasting his Wines

Chef Bart M. Vandaele Celebrated the 2 Year Anniversary of his B Too Restaurant with the Wines of Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard from Chablis, USA/France

Winemaker Dinner with Château LAFON-ROCHET Wines and Winemaker Anaïs Maillet at Chef Bart Vandaele’s Hipp B Too Restaurant in Washington DC, US/France

Post-Rieslingfeier and Pre-Big Glou Dinner with 3 Top Winemakers from Germany at BToo in Washington DC: Clemens Busch, Immich-Batterieberg and Koehler-Ruprecht, USA

A Feast with Jean Trimbach, Maison Trimbach in Alsace, and Chef Bart M. Vandaele at B Too in Washington DC, USA/France

Winemaker Dinner with David Reynaud, Domaine les Bruyeres, Crozes-Hermitage in the Rhone Valley, at Chef Bart Vandaele's BToo in Washington DC, USA/ France




Tasting and Cellar Tour at Weingut Rings in Freinsheim, Pfalz, with Andreas Rings - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

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Picture: Tasting at Weingut Rings with Andreas Rings

Weingut Rings is one Germany's rising stars in the wine scene. "The Rings brothers have taken the German wine world by storm with their profound bottlings of Spatburgunder and Riesling" says Lyle Fass from New York, who has included Weingut Rings in his import portfolio.

Andreas Rings was our host. We enjoyed a massive tasting with him. After the tasting he showed us a bit around in the winery. We had to cut the tour short because Andreas Rings' close friend and collegue Jürgen Krebs was waiting for us. Furthermore, the Krebs brothers are in the process of building a new state-of-the-art winery outside of Freinsheim, where they will move the operations this year.

Pictures: Steffen and Andreas Rings

Weingut Rings

Up until the early 1990s, Steffen and Andreas Rings’ father cultivated fruit orchards as well as vineyards. The 2001 vintage marked a turning point for the estate as this was the first vintage of 100% wine production. Each successive year has seen a leap in quality, and in 2015 the winery was accepted as a member of the VDP, the association of about 200 elite winemakers in Germany.

Today, the winery covers a total area of 28.5 hectares in the Mittehaardt and is planted with 30% Riesling, 30% Spätburgunder, 20% Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc, and Pinot Gris, and 20% Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. Their highest quality vineyards are the Kallstadter Saumagen, Ungsteiner Weilberg, and Leistadter Felsenberg plots.

Weingut Rings is dedicated to eco-friendly viticulture, a very labor intensive pursuit. In the vineyard, everything is manually done: thinning out of the leaves, removal of unwanted growths, halving of the grape bunches, sorting, and selection. In the end, the Rings brothers’ desire to capture and preserve the essence of this extraordinary terroir, combined with their passion for winemaking, results in exceptionally produced wines that are delicious representatives of the Pfalz wine making region.
Vinification

The goal of the Rings brothers is to interfere as little as possible in the winemaking process. The must is fermented using wild yeast, and the wine is never filtered or fined-in fact, it is moved as little as possible. The wine is aged sur lie for several months in 600/1200 liter wooden casks.

Pictures: Tour of Weingut Rings

Wine Portfolio

The Rings brothers produce wine in 6 different categories. 

BASIC WINES

Wines we make including with grapes from vintner friends of ours. Fresh and easy-drinking wines.

RINGS LITER RIESLING trocken
RINGS WEISS trocken
RINGS ROSÉ trocken

ESTATE WINES

Exclusively from our own vineyards, these are the high quality introduction to our winery. Maximum yield: 70 hl/ha and 100% hand harvested.

RIESLING KALKMERGEL trocken
GRAUBURGUNDER trocken
SPÄTBURGUNDER trocken
ROTER SATZ Rotweincuvée trocken

Pictures: Weingut Rings - The New Winery

VILLAGE WINES

These wines all come from the best sites surrounding the village of Freinsheim and are the perfect balance between opulence and elegance. They are the ideal accompaniment to any meal. Maximum yield: 60 hl/ha and 100% hand harvested.

Freinsheim - Freinsheim’s soil is characterized by loess, gravel and sand. It is here that our Burgundies, Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling find their home.

RIESLING Freinsheim trocken
WEISSER BURGUNDER Freinsheim trocken
SAUVIGNON BLANC Freinsheim trocken
SPÄTBURGUNDER Freinsheim trocken

PREMIER CRU WINES

Emulating their Grand Cru neighbors, these wines impressively reveal their origin. In their youth rather puristic, over time maturing with ever increasing harmony. Distinctive wines with a lot of character. Maximum yield: 45 hl/ha and 100% hand harvested.

Nussriegel - This site is situated directly next to the Grand Cru Weilberg. Clay, loam and sandstone soils deliver full-bodied, harmonious wines.

RIESLING Ungsteiner Nussriegel trocken

Steinacker - Meager soil and limestone rocks characterize the site. The grapevines have to fight for every single drop of water and thus deliver fine mineral wines.

RIESLING Kallstadter Steinacker trocken
CHARDONNAY Kallstadter Steinacker trocken
SPÄTBURGUNDER Kallstadter Steinacker trocken

GRAND CRU WINES

These sites have always been among the Palatinate’s best. The wines are uncompromisingly unique and strongly reflect their origins. They are designed for long-term maturation in the bottle.
Maximum yield: 25-35 hl/ha and 100% hand harvested.

Weilberg - This site enjoys one of the longest traditions in the Palatinate. It is here that the Romans first brought viticulture 2000 years ago. The heart of the Weilberg consists of ferruginous loam, called “Roterde”.

RIESLING Ungsteiner Weilberg trocken
WEISSER BURGUNDER Ungsteiner Weilberg trocken

Saumagen - Marl lime mixed with countless small limestone rocks is typical for the famous Saumagen site. Out of the meagerness of the soil arises anextremely opulent wine, with a rich mineral quality and excellent aging potential.

RIESLING Kallstadter Saumagen trocken
SPÄTBURGUNDER Kallstadter Saumagen trocken

The “Berntal Project”

Berntal - This is an old, almost forgotten site we are currently resurrecting. In 2010 we planted
Burgundy Pinot Noir here. Situated in a small valley and surrounded by a stone wall, it’s
the steepest vineyard of the winery and faces completely south. Soil = 100% limestone.

SPÄTBURGUNDER Berntal trocken

DAS KREUZ

Our dream of crafting a truly great red wine in the Bordelaise tradition was inspired by the Freinsheim site known as Schwarzes Kreuz (Black Cross) – hence the names of our flagship cuvée Das Kreuz (The Cross) and its second wine Das Kleine Kreuz (The Little Cross). Maximum yield: 25-35 hl/ha and 100% hand harvested.

Schwarzes Kreuz - The hottest place in Freinsheim. Very dry soil comprised of gravel and sand is the basis for intense red wines like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and St. Laurent.

DAS KLEINE KREUZ Rotweincuvée trocken
DAS KREUZ Rotweincuvée trocken

RESERVE WINES

Réserve wines are a gift nature offers us inexceptional years only. They are made of extraordinary, in their own way quite demanding, grape varieties. Often only a barrel or two attract our attention in a truly dramatic way during their aging process in the cellar. Only then do we label it Réserve.

SAUVIGNON BLANC Réserve trocken
PORTUGIESER Réserve trocken
SYRAH Réserve trocken

Pictures: Tasting with Andreas Rings

Weingut Rings in the German Wineguides

Eichelmann Wineguide 2015: “The style of their Riesling and Spätburgunder is becoming ever clearer. The entire collection is outstanding. Even thebasic Riesling is impressive because of its fruity and fresh clarity of taste.”

Der Feinschmecker “Die besten Weine & Winzer 2015”: “What the two wine freaks bottle is worth experiencing. This years’ collection definitely merits its higher ranking, especially the juicy Rieslings. These are truly powerful, richly concentrated wines that, in spite of their power, are still elegant and express mineral nuances. The red wines also deserve high rankings.”

Falstaff Wineguide 2015: “Steffen and Andreas Rings have really had the pedal to the metal over the last years and it seems that they are going to continue at this speed. The duo has talent with strong, full-bodied reds as well as finely tuned Rieslings that reflect their origins. The Spätburgunder from Kallstadt’s Saumagen site is already one of the best of its kind.”

Gault Millau Wine Guide 2015: “3,5 grapes” ranking (out of 5) “Relax, sit back, take it easy – these are the wrong words to use in association with Steffen and Andreas Rings. These two brothers have been causing quite a stir in wine circles in the Pfalz region for a number of years now, with their absolute dedication to quality above all, to which all other considerations are secondary. They have targeted the purchase of additional parcels of vineyards in some of the best sites, and where necessary these have been replanted. There are also plans to move the winery from its present position, as the space available in the centre of town is no longer sufficient for the requirements. Having said that, the current level of quality of the wines must leave a lot of competitors decidedly anxious. What should we mention first, the crystal-clear and yet deep Riesling wines? The Pinot Blanc from the Weilberg
site with its exquisite elegance? Or perhaps the varied range of characterful red wines with the „Kreuz“ and the Syrah at the top of the scale? Once again there are many highlights.”

Pictures: Andreas Rings, Weingut Rings, and Annette and Christian Schiller in Frankfurt, Germany

Weingut Rings in the USA

Weingut Rings wines are available in the US through Fass Selections.

Lyle Fass: As soon as I walked into Andreas Rings' winery in Freinsheim I knew I would like Andreas and his wines. There were oceans of great bottles lining the walls. Rebholz, Rousseau, Roumier, etc. My instincts were right; this is the new star in Germany and he can barely shave. I found out about this winery because one of their Pinot Noirs was ranked the top Pinot in Germany by Martin Zwick's group of experts. I always form my own opinion of any wine I taste but my props to Martin for discovering Rings.

I have never been this excited for an appointment in Germany, perhaps ever. The Rings brothers have taken the German wine world by storm with their profound bottlings of Spatburgunder and Riesling. It's almost as if they popped out of nowhere. Located in Freinsheim, which is great for Pinot Noir and Riesling, the brothers Rings have an adept hand at both grapes, especially at such a young age. Andreas, who is in charge of the winemaking, at the tender age of 26, is a genius; if these are the wines he is making at 26, Germany needs to watch out what he can do at 36 or even 46. He will be an important winemaker for a very very long time and you are getting the opportunity to get in on the ground floor. The style of the wines is as big as Andreas' teddy bear-like personality. The Rieslings and Spatburgunders have incredible freshness, verve and depth. They are big, powerful and explosive wines that take no prisoners, which I find is typical Pfalz style; the Pfalz is not for wimps.

I am proud to be the first person in America to offer the 2013 Rings Steinacker Riesling for as little as $24.99 on a six pack. This is a silly value. This is the equivalent of Spatlese Trocken, which typically go for $30-$40 through the 3 tier system. This wine is so pure, so fresh, so chiseled, so buff and just so drinkable. The precision here is unreal. There is so much explosive yellow fruit and stony vibe to this wine. It is something to ponder and also something to throw back and not think about. Wines that have structure, minerality and density, like the 2013 Steinacker, yet are also easy to drink and keep you coming back for one more sip. This also showcases the high quality of the 2013 vintage in the Pfalz with such nice acid (yes 2013 is an acid lover's vintage) and structure. This is a startling value made by an up and coming winemaker that you will all want to keep on your radar. Steinacker as a site is very dry and every bit of water is needed by the vines. Despite all this it creates such fine, mineral and lean wines.

If this killer Riesling was not enough, they also make world class Pinot Noir here (he is actually even more famous for Pinot Noir). For me the best value was obvious as soon as I tasted it. The 2013 Freinsheim Spatburgunder, which can be had for as little as $29.99 on the 4-pack, is a stunner. It has everything I look for in top class introductory German Pinot Noir. Think very good Village Côte de Beaune quality. Freshness, elegance, wonderful pure fruit and amazing gout de terroir. These Pinot Noirs just resonate - Pfalz! You can smell the sand, the clay, the rain and the salt. The freshness of the red fruit and balance is just startling. So pure, so clean. The high limestone content in the soil contributes to its lean and fruity character. For their introductory Pinot Noir to be this complex I knew I was in rareified air.

Pictures: Annette Schiller with H.O. Spanier, Weingut Kühling-Gillot & Battenfeld Spanier, Dieter Greiner, Managing Director, Hessische Staatsweingüter Kloster Eberbach, Steffen and Andreas Rings, Weingut Rings. See: Riesling Gala 2017 at Eberbach Monastery in the Rheingau: A Riesling Feast in a Breathtaking Historic Setting, Germany

The Wines Andreas Rings Poured

2016 Weingut Rings Riesling Kalkmergel VDP.Gutswein
2016 Weingut Rings Freinsheim Riesling VDP.Ortswein
2016 Weingut Rings Ungesteiner Nussriegel Riesling VDP.Erste Lage
2016 Weingut Rings Kallstadter Steinacker Riesling VDP.Erste Lage
2016 Weingut Rings Saumagen Riesling GG VDP.Grosse Lage 
2012 Weingut Rings Weilberg Riesling GG VDP.Grosse Lage
2016 Weingut Rings Kallstadter Steinacker Chardonnay VDP.Erste Lage


2015 Weingut Rings Freinsheim Spätburgunder VDP.Ortswein
2015 Weingut Rings Kallstadt Spätburgunder VDP.Ortswein


2014 Weingut Rings Kallstadter Steinacker Spätburgunder VDP.Erste Lage
2014 Weingut Rings Kallstadter Saumagen Spätburgunder GG VDP.Grosse Lage
2015 Weingut Rings Syrah Réserve


schiller-wine: All Postings (Published and Forthcoming): Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: Baden, Alsace, Pfalz and Rheinhessen

Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: Baden, Alsace, Pfalz and Rheinhessen

Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour (and Lunch) with Robert Schätzle, Owner/ Winemaker, Weingut Schloss Neuweier in Baden - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

La Cucina della Passione and Weingut Schloss Neuweier Wines: Wine Pairing Lunch at Röttele’s Restaurant (1 Star Michelin) at Schloss Neuweier, with Owner and Winemaker Robert Schätzle, Weingut Schloss Neuweier - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

The Music of the A Cappella Ensemble "Männer und Tenöre" and the Wines of Weingut Aufricht, Lake Constance, Baden, with Manfred Aufricht - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

The Evolving Structure of the Wine Industry in Germany– The Case of the Lake Constance Region

Schloss Salem at Lake Constance in Germany: A Museum, a School and a Wine Estate

Visit of Schloss Salem, Kirche Birnau and Weingut Markgraf von Baden - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

The Wines of the Markgräflerland (Baden): Tasting and Cellar Tour at Weingut Löffler - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Tasting and Cellar Tour at Weingut Stigler, Baden, with Andreas, Regina and Max Stigler - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Dinner at Restaurant Schwarzer Adler, 1 Star Michelin, Oberbergen, Kaiserstuhl, Baden - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars and Wine Taverns in Freiburg, Baden, Germany

The World Class Wines of Alsace

In the world class white wine region Alsace

Tasting at Domaine Marcel Deiss in Bergheim, Alsace - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Lunch in Alsace: Wistube du Sommelier in Bergheim and L’Epicurien in Colmar - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Tasting at Domaine Dirler-Cadé with Jean Pierre Dirler and Ludevine Dirler-Cadé - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Tour and Tasting at Domaines Schlumberger in Guebwiller, Alsace - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Tour and Tasting at Hugel in Riquewhir, Alsace, with Jean Frédéric Hugel - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Dinner at the 1 Michelin Star Restaurant L’Achémille in Kaysersberg, with Owner/ Chef Jérome Jaegle - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Wine Lunch at Weingut Jülg with Johannes Jülg– Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Tasting at Maison Jülg in Seebach, Alsace, with Peter Jülg - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Schiller's Favorite (Wine-) Restaurants in Deidesheim in the Pfalz, Germany

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz in Siebeldingen, Pfalz, with Hansjörg and Valentin Rebholz and Sabine Wagner - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Münzberg/ Gunter Kessler in Landau-Godramstein, Pfalz, with Owner/ Winemaker Gunter Kessler - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Rings in Freinsheim, Pfalz, with Andi Rings

Tasting at Weingut Krebs in Freinsheim, Pfalz, with Jürgen Krebs

Tasting at Sekthaus Raumland in Flörsheim-Dalsheim, Rheinhessen, with Heide-Rose and Volker Raumland

Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Philipp Wittmann and Eva Clüsserath-Wittmann at Weingut Wittmann in Westhofen – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2014)

Cellar Tourvisit and Tasting at Weingut Gröbe in Westhofen, Rheinhessen, with Fritz Gröbe

Cellar Tour and Wine Pairing Lunch at Weingut Louis Guntrum in Nierstein, Rheinhessen, with Konstantin and Stephanie Guntrum

Best German Winemakers: Falstaff Wine Trophies 2018

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Picture: The Nominees - Falstaff Wine Trophies 2018, with Ursula Haslauer and Ulrich Sauter (both Falstaff) Photo: Falstaff/ Alois Müller

For the eightth time, the Falstaff Trophies Deutschland were awarded. The wine/food/travel journal Falstaff has been around for a number of years, issued in Vienna, Austria, and reporting about wine, food and travel from an Austrian perspective, for Austria-based readers. Seven years ago, Falstaff expanded into the German wine and food scene and started to issue a German version of Falstaff in addition to the well established Austrian version. As part of its expansion, Falstaff has created the annual Falstaff Deutschland Wine Trophies, to be awarded to German wine personalities.

For previous years, see:

Best German Winemakers - Falstaff Deutschland Wine Trophies 2017
Best German Winemakers - Falstaff Deutschland Wine Trophies 2016
Best German Winemakers - Falstaff Deutschland Wine Trophies 2015
Best German Winemakers - Falstaff Deutschland Wine Trophies 2014
Best German Winemakers - Falstaff Deutschland Wine Trophies 2013
Best German Wines and Winemakers - Falstaff Deutschland Wine Trophies 2012
Falstaff Deutschland Wine Trophies 2011

Picture: Falstaff  WeinGuide Deutschland 2018

Falstaff Wine Tropies 2018: The Winners

Newcomer of the Year: Angelina and Kilian Franzen of Weingut Franzen in Bremm/ Mosel.

Sommelier of the Year: Michel Fouquet, who works in Johannisberg/ Rheingau in the Michelin 2 Stars Restaurant Schwarzenstein with Chef Nils Henkel.

Winemaker of the Year: With Sebastian Fürst of Weingut Fürst, Falstaff honored a winemaker who not only kept the extremely high quality level of his father Paul, but even managed to increase it with his own accents.

Picture: The Winners - Falstaff Wine Trophies 2018, with Ursula Haslauer and Ulrich Sauter (both Falstaff) Photo: Falstaff/ Alois Müller

Wine Ambassador: Wilhelm Weil from Weingut Robert Weil in Kiedrich/ Rheingau was honored as a Wine Ambassador - a title that Falstaff does not award every year - because of Wilhelm Weil's efforts to promote the Rheingau and German wine - at home and abroad.

Falstaff Trophy for Lifetime Achievement: Helmut Dönnhoff from Weingut Dönnhoff in Oberhausen/ Nahe.

Favorite Wine of the Year: As in previous years, a top-class jury had voted on the sommelier, the newcomer and the winemaker of the year in a secret, notarized election. But the Falstaff readers also had the floor. They chose the 2016 Weissburgunder Steinwiege from Rainer Schnaitmann (Fellbach) as the favorite wine of the year. The award went to a producer from Württemberg for the second time in a row.

Falstaff Sommelier of the Year: The Nominees

Michel Fouquet, Burg Schwarzenstein, Geisenheim
Dorina Sill und Klaus Wählen, Eiskeller, Düsseldorf
Andreas Weber, Deidesheimer Hof, Deidesheim

Michel Fouquet, Burg Schwarzenstein, Geisenheim

Falstaff: Inmitten der Weinberge von Johannisberg im Rheingau verrichtet Michel Fouquet seine Arbeit: An der Seite von Nils Henkel sorgt Fouquet im Sternerestaurant der Burg Schwarzenstein für kongeniale Weinbegleitungen zur raffinierten Küche seines Chefs. Dabei schlägt der gebürtige Bordelaiser immer wieder eine Brücke vom Rheingau-Riesling zu Weinen aus aller Welt, stets mit großem Feingefühl für die marriage von Wein und Speise.

Christian Schiller Translation: In the midst of the vineyards of Johannisberg in the Rheingau, Michel Fouquet carries out his work: In the Michelin-starred restaurant of the Burg Schwarzenstein alongside Chef Nils Henkel, Fouquet ensures congenial wine accompaniments to the refined cuisine of his boss. Born in Bordeaux, Michel Fouquet tries to build a bridge from the Rheingau-Riesling to wines from all over the world, always with great sensitivity for the marriage of wine and food.

Picture: Michel Fouquet Photo: Falstaff/ Alois Müller

Pictures: Dinner at Restaurant Schwarzenstein with Sommelier Michel Fouquet. See: Dinner at Restaurant Schwarzenstein - Nils Henkel in the Rheingau, with Nils Henkel, Chef of the Year 2017 (Der Feinschmecker), Germany

Dorina Sill und Klaus Wählen, Eiskeller, Düsseldorf

Falstaff: Als Dorina Sill und Klaus Wählen bemerkten, dass es in Düsseldorf kaum einen Ort gibt, an dem man gut Wein trinken kann, ohne zugleich kostspielig zu essen, da fassten sie den Entschluss, selbst eine Weinbar zu eröffnen. Seither ist der »Eiskeller« in Düsseldorfs Altstadt die Anlaufstelle für Weinkenner und alle, die es werden wollen. Mit einem enzyklopädisch breit aufgestellten Sortiment und großem Sachverstand schaffen es Sill und Wählen, den Blick ihrer Gäste auch auf ungewöhnliche Weine zu lenken.Dinner at Restaurant Schwarzenstein - Nils Henkel in the Rheingau, with Nils Henkel, Chef of the Year 2017 (Der Feinschmecker), Germany

Christian Schiller Translation: When Dorina Sill and Klaus Wahl noticed that there was hardly a place in Düsseldorf where you can have a good wine without consuming expensive food, they decided to open a wine bar themselves. Since then, the "Eiskeller" in Düsseldorf's Altstadt has been the focal point for wine connoisseurs and those who want to become one. With an encyclopaedic broad range and great expertise, Sill and Wahl manage to draw the attention of their guests to unusual wines.

Andreas Weber, Deidesheimer Hof, Deidesheim

Falstaff: Andreas Weber wirkt im kulinarischen Epizentrum der Pfalz: Im »Deidesheimer Hof« in Deidesheim. Das tut er schon seit 2004 – so lange, dass er selbst als eine Pfälzer Institution gelten kann. Als Maître d'Hotel umfasst das Spektrum der Aufgaben, denen sich Weber widmet, sehr viel mehr als nur die Weinberatung der Gäste. Mit seiner nachdenklichen, reflektierten Art schafft er für die Gäste ein umfassendes Wohlfühl-Klima: Mit der Harmonie von Wein und Speisen als einem Baustein unter vielen.

Christian Schiller Translation: Andreas Weber works in the culinary epicenter of the Pfalz Region: In the »Deidesheimer Hof« in Deidesheim. He has been doing so since 2004 - so long that he himself can be considered a Pfalz institution. As a maître d'hotel, the range of tasks Weber devotes to involves much more than just the wine consultation of the guests. With his thoughtful, reflective manner, he creates for the guests a comprehensive feel-good climate: With the harmony of wine and food as one of many building blocks.

Picture: Deidesheimer Hof. See: Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: Baden, Alsace, Pfalz and Rheinhessen

Falstaff Newcomer of the Year: The Nominees

Weingut Franzen, Mosel
Weingut Schmitt, Rheinhessen
Weingut Schuh, Sachsen

Weingut Franzen, Mosel

Picture: Angelina and Kilian Franzen of Weingut Franzen in Bremm/ Mosel Photo: Falstaff/ Alois Müller

Picture: Kilian Franzen with Annette Schiller at the 2017 Riesling Gala at Kloster Eberbach. See: Riesling Gala 2017 at Eberbach Monastery in the Rheingau: A Riesling Feast in a Breathtaking Historic Setting, Germany

Weingut Schmitt, Rheinhessen

Picture: Daniel and Bianka Schmitt Weingut Schmitt/ Rheinhessen Photo: Falstaff/ Alois Müller

Weingut Schuh, Sachsen

Picture: Matthias Schuh and Sister Katharina Pollmer Weingut Schuh/ Sachsen Photo: Falstaff/ Alois Müller. See also: Germany-East Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours: Wine, Art, Culture and History

Falstaff Winemaker of the Year: The Nominees

Clemens Busch, Mosel
Jan Eymael, Pfalz
Sebastian Fürst, Franken

Clemens Busch, Weingut Clemens Busch (Mosel)

Falstaff: Die Lage Pündericher Marienburg hatte keinen internationalen Ruf, als Rita und Clemens Busch Mitte der 1980er Jahre das Wagnis eingingen, ihren Weinberg auf Bio-Anbau umzustellen. Im Schiefersteilhang mit der Handspritze auf dem Rücken und mit ökologischen Präparaten gegen Mehltau und Botrytis zu kämpfen: welch eine Tortur! Nicht wenige dachten damals, dass Busch das Experiment bald abbrechen werde. Doch 30 Jahre später arbeitet Busch immer noch so, mehr noch: Er praktiziert Biodynamik – und hat für seine kraftvollen, mineralischen Rieslinge Weltruf erlangt.

Christian Schiller Translation: The Pündericher Marienburg Vineyard had no international reputation, when Rita and Clemens Busch in the mid-1980s took the risk to convert their vineyard to organic farming. To fight against mildew and botrytis in the steep slate slope with the hand syringe with biological preparations on the back: What a torture! Many people thought back then that Rita and Clemens Busch would soon stop the experiment. But 30 years later, Clemens Busch still works like that, and even more: He practices biodynamics - and has gained world renown for his powerful, mineral Rieslings.

Picture: Clemens and Rita Busch Weingut Clemens Busch/ Mosel Photo: Falstaff/ Alois Müller

Pictures: At Weingut Clemens Busch with Rita and Clemens Busch. See:Vineyard Tour and Wine Tasting at Weingut Clemens Busch– Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2014)

Picture: Annette Schiller, Clemens Busch and Christian Schiller in Washington DC

Sebastian Fürst, Weingut Rudolf Fürst (Franken)

Falstaff: Es ist Monika und Paul Fürst zu verdanken, dass Weinkenner in den 1980er Jahren Bürgstadt in Churfranken zu entdecken begannen: Mit seinen subtilen Spätburgundern, aber auch mit reifebeständigen Weißweinen schuf sich das Weingut Fürst einen Ruf weiter über nationale Grenzen hinaus. Nach einigen Jahren an der Seite seines Vaters schultert Sebastian Fürst nun die Last der Verantwortung alleine. Dabei führt er mit ruhiger Hand fort, was sich bewährt hat, setzt aber auch mit großer Souveränität eigene Akzente.

Christian Schiller Translation: We have to thank Monika and Paul Fürst that wine connoisseurs began to discover Bürgstadt in Churfranken in the 1980s: With its subtle Spätburgundern, but also with ripe white wines, Weingut Fürt created a reputation for itself beyond national borders. After a few years at his father's side, Sebastian Fürst now shoulders the burden of responsibility alone. He continues with a steady hand, what has proven itself, but sets with great sovereignty own accents.

Picture: Sebastian Fürst and his Wife Photo: Falstaff/ Alois Müller

Pictures: Paul Fürst, Annette Schiller, Sebastian Fürst and Christian Schiller at Weingut Rudolf Fürst. See: Tasting and Tour with the Pinot Noir Legend Paul Fürst, Weingut Rudolf Fürst in Bürgstadt, Franken – Germany-East Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Pictures: Winemaker Dinner with Sebastian Fürst, Weingut Fürst, Franken, at Schaumahl, Offenbach/ Frankfurt, 16 Points Gault Millau, Germany

Jan Eymael, Weingut Pfeffingen (Pfalz)

Falstaff: In Ungstein vor den Toren Bad Dürkheims leitet Jan Eymael die Geschicke des Weinguts Pfeffingen, das sich bereits seit vier Generationen im Besitz seiner Familie befindet. Auch wenn Eymael in der extrovertierten Pfalz eher zu den stillen Zeitgenossen gehört: Seine dichten Rieslingweine von Kalk- und Terra-Rossa-Böden sind beredte Zeugen seines Könnens. Überdies widmet Eymael ein besonderes Augenmerk Spezialitäten wie dem roten Riesling und der Scheurebe. Seine Scheurebe »SP« ist sogar nicht weniger als ein weit über die Pfalz hinaus anerkanntes role model für trockene Weine aus dieser Sorte.

Christian Schiller Translation: In Ungstein, just outside Bad Dürkheim, Jan Eymael manages the fortunes of Weingut Pfeffingen, which has been owned by his family for four generations. Even though Eymael is one of the quiet contemporaries in the extroverted Pfalz Region, his dense Riesling wines from lime and Terra Rossa soils are eloquent witnesses to his skills. Moreover, Eymael devotes special attention to specialties such as Roter Riesling and Scheurebe. His Scheurebe "SP" is no less than a role model for dry wines of this variety, recognized far beyond the Pfalz.

Picture: Jan Eymael of Weinguts Pfeffingen/ Pfalz Photo: Falstaff/ Alois Müller

Falstaff Wine Favorite: The Nominees

Weingut Rainer Schnaitmann, 2016 »Steinwiege« Weißburgunder trocken
Weingut Wechsler, 2016 Sauvignon Blanc trocken
Weingut Zehnthof Luckert, 2016 Sulzfeld Müller-Thurgau trocken

Weingut Wechsler, 2016 Sauvignon Blanc trocken

Falstaff: Mit Kirchspiel und Morstein ist Katharina Wechsler im Besitz einiger Parzellen in besten Westhofener Lagen. »Benn« darf sie sogar als Monopol ihr Eigen nennen. Hier lässt die Quereinsteigerin nun bereits seit einigen Jahren zuverlässig präzise Rieslinge entstehen, die es schon auf die Weinkarten in den USA gebracht haben. Ihre Weine haben ihren Weg gemacht. Auch heuer stellte uns Wechsler wieder ebenso kompakte wie saftige Weine dieser Rebsorte vor. Einen enormen Aufwärtstrend nahmen wir bei ihren Spätburgundern wahr, die Mut zur Säure und straffe Kirschfrucht zeigten.

Christian Schiller Translation: With Kirchspiel and Morstein Katharina Wechsler owns some parcels in the best vineyards of Westhofen. She may even call Benn a monopoly vineyard. For a few years, the career changer has been producing reliable, precise Rieslings that have already made it onto the wine lists in the USA. Her wines have made their way. This year, Wechsler presented again compact and juicy wines of this grape variety. We also noticed an enormous upward trend in her Spätburgunder, which demonstrate her courage to acidity and taut cherry fruit.

Picture: Katharina Wechsler Weingut Wechsler/ Rheinhessen Photo: Falstaff/ Alois Müller

Pictures: Winetasting with Katharina Wechser, Weingut K. Wechsler, Westhofen, Rheinhessen – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2014)

Picture: Katharina Wechsler on Nespresso Advertisement in Berlin

Weingut Rainer Schnaitmann, 2016 Steinwiege Weißburgunder trocken

Falstaff: Alles beim Alten könnte man auf den ersten Blick meinen: Rainer Schnaitmann hält sein Niveau, mit Lembergern und Spätburgundern an der Spitze, die eine warme, doch niemals hitzige Frucht mit reifem Gerbstoff verbinden. Beim zweiten Blick gibt es aber doch Neues: Die Kollektion wirkt an ihren Rändern noch feiner ausdifferenziert und weiter durchdacht: Dafür steht beispielhaft eine fruchtige Riesling Spätlese, die dem Prädikat eine nicht überbordende und dennoch sehr stimmige Interpretation verleiht. Eine Zier der Kollektion ist auch der Sekt. So kann’s weitergehen!

Christian Schiller Translation: Nothing new one could say at first sight: Rainer Schnaitmann keeps his standard, with Lemberger and Spätburgunder at the top, which combine a warm but never hot fruit with ripe tannin. But if you take a second look, there is something new: The collection looks finer and more elaborate at the edges: this is exemplified by a fruity Riesling Spätlese, which lends the predicate a not-too-exuberant, yet very harmonious interpretation. A highlight of the collection is also the sparkling wine. So it can go on!

Picture: Rainer Schnaitmann Weingut Schnaitmann in Felbach/ Württemberg Photo: Falstaff/ Alois Müller

Pictures: At Weingut Rainer Schnaitmann with Rainer Schnaitmann. See: Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting with Rainer Schnaitmann at Weingut Rainer Schnaitmann in Fellbach, Württemberg – Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), Germany


Pictures: Chef's Table Winemaker Dinner at Zur Golden Kron in Frankfurt, Germany, with Michelin-starred Chef Alfred Friedrich, Frankfurt Cult Sommelier Pit Punda and World Class Winemaker Rainer Schnaitmann from Württemberg

Weingut Zehnthof Luckert, 2016 Sulzfeld Müller-Thurgau trocken

Falstaff: Ulrich Luckert, sein Bruder Wolfgang und dessen Sohn Philipp bewirtschaften im unterfränkischen Sulzfeld ihre rund 17 Hektar kalkreicher Weinberge bereits seit 2009 biologisch. Ihren Weinen kommt diese Umstellung offenbar bestens zugute, denn sie haben in den letzten Jahren deutlich an Destinktion und Ausdruckskraft gewonnen. Dabei werden alle Weine unter Verzicht jeglicher Schönungsmittel oder Enzymen samt und sonders spontan vergoren. Bei der Verkostung des 2016er Silvaner »Creutz« schweifte die Jury bei ihrer Beschreibung in die Ferne ab. Der Wein hat eine lange Reise vor sich.

Christian Schiller Translation: Ulrich Luckert, his brother Wolfgang and his son Philipp cultivate their approximately 17 hectares of lime-rich vineyards in the Lower Franconian Sulzfeld since 2009 biologically. Their conversion seems to benefit their wines, as they have clearly gained in terms of destiny and expressiveness in recent years. All wines are fermented without the use of any fining agents or enzymes and spontaneously. At the tasting of the 2016 Silvaner »Creutz«, the jury members went astray in their description. The wine has a long journey ahead of it.

Picture: Philipp Luckert and his Wife, Weingut Zehnthof Luckert/ Franken Photo: Falstaff/ Alois Müller

Falstaff Wine Ambassador Trophy

Wilhelm Weil, Weingut Robert Weil in Kiedrich/ Rheingau

Falstaff: Würde man in USA, in Asien, in Skandinavien nach dem bekanntesten Winzer Deutschlands fragen, Wilhelm Weil würde ohne Frage die Liste anführen. Obwohl sein Weingut ohnehin einen Ruf wie Donnerhall besitzt, ist Weil rastlos unterwegs, um bei Verkostungen und Weinmenüs den Wert der Kiedricher Lagen zu veranschaulichen. Dabei wirbt Weil immer zugleich auch für den Rheingauer und deutschen Wein im Allgemeinen. Wer sich nicht zu schade ist, Abend für Abend die einfachsten Informationen zu vermitteln, obwohl er zugleich die komplexesten und anspruchsvollsten Weine erzeugt – der hat es wahrlich verdient, als Weinbotschafter ausgezeichnet zu werden.

Christian Schiller Translation: If one would ask in the USA, in Asia, in Scandinavia, for the best-known German winemaker Wilhelm Weil would undoubtedly lead the list. Although his winery has a reputation like a thunder (Donnerhall), Weil is restless to promote the vineyards of Kiedrich in tastings and wine dinners. In doing that Weil always promotes at the same time the Rheingau and German wine in general. Someboday who does not mind to provide evening after evening basic information, while at the same time producing the most complex and sophisticated wines, has truly deserved to be honored as wine ambassador.

Picture: Wilhelm Weil, Weingut Robert Weil Photo: Falstaff/ Alois Müller

Pictures: Christian and Annette Schiller with Wilhelm Weil at Weingut Robert Weil in Kiedrich

Pictures: Kiedrich: Visit of the Basilica of Saint Valentine and of Weingut Robert Weil - Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Falstaff Lifetime Achievement Trophy

Helmut Dönnhoff, Weingut Dönnhoff in Oberhausen/ Nahe

Falstaff: Helmut Dönnhoff hat während der vergangenen 30 Jahre den Umbruch im Weinbau der mittleren Nahe geprägt wie kein zweiter: Als sich die vormals großen Namen der Region nach und nach der hohen Kosten wegen aus den Steillagen zurückzogen, sprang Dönnhoff in die Bresche. Hermannshöhle, Dellchen, Felsenberg: Mit seinen Lagen-Rieslingen schuf Dönnhoff Wein-Monumente, die weltweit höchste Wertschätzung genießen. Zugleich leistete er seiner Heimatregion den größten Dienst, den man sich vorstellen kann: Indem er ihre Wertschätzung gemehrt und dabei den Fortbestand historischer Weinbergslagen gesichert hat.

Christian Schiller Translation: During the past 30 years, Helmut Dönnhoff has shaped the change in viticulture in the middle Nahe like no other: While the the formerly big names of the region gradually withdrew from the steep slopes due to the high costs, Dönnhoff jumped into the breach. Hermannshöhle, Dellchen, Felsenberg: With its single-vineyard Rieslings Dönnhoff created wine monuments that enjoy the highest esteem worldwide. At the same time, he provided his home region with the greatest service imaginable: by furthing its esteem and by ensuring the survival of historic vineyard sites.

Picture: Helmut Dönnhoff and his Wife with Joachim Heger, Weingut Dr. Heger

Picture: Christian Schiller with Helmut Dönnhoff, Weingut Hermann Dönnhoff

Picture: Annette Schiller, Helmut Dönnhoff and daughter Christina Dönnhoff (Weingut Dönnhoff) and Didier Cuevlier (Chateau Leoville Poyferre) at Weingut Dr. Robert Weil

Pictures: An Afternoon with Riesling Star Winemaker Helmut Doennhoff at Weingut Doennhoff in Oberhausen in the Nahe Valley, Germany

schiller-wine: Related Postings

Ombiasy Wine Tours 2018: 3 x France and 3 x Germany - Ombiasy Newsletter December 2017

Dinner at Restaurant Schwarzenstein - Nils Henkel in the Rheingau, with Nils Henkel, Chef of the Year 2017 (Der Feinschmecker), Germany

Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: Baden, Alsace, Pfalz and Rheinhessen

Riesling Gala 2017 at Eberbach Monastery in the Rheingau: A Riesling Feast in a Breathtaking Historic Setting, Germany

Vineyard Tour and Wine Tasting at Weingut Clemens Busch– Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2014)

  Tasting and Tour with the Pinot Noir Legend Paul Fürst, Weingut Rudolf Fürst in Bürgstadt, Franken – Germany-East Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Winemaker Dinner with Sebastian Fürst, Weingut Fürst, Franken, at Schaumahl, Offenbach/ Frankfurt, 16 Points Gault Millau, Germany

Winetasting with Katharina Wechser, Weingut K. Wechsler, Westhofen, Rheinhessen – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2014)

Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting with Rainer Schnaitmann at Weingut Rainer Schnaitmann in Fellbach, Württemberg – Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), Germany

Chef's Table Winemaker Dinner at Zur Golden Kron in Frankfurt, Germany, with Michelin-starred Chef Alfred Friedrich, Frankfurt Cult Sommelier Pit Punda and World Class Winemaker Rainer Schnaitmann from Württemberg

Kiedrich: Visit of the Basilica of Saint Valentine and of Weingut Robert Weil - Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

An Afternoon with Riesling Star Winemaker Helmut Doennhoff at Weingut Doennhoff in Oberhausen in the Nahe Valley, Germany

Germany-East Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours: Wine, Art, Culture and History

Upcoming Tours/ Wine Dinners/ Tastings - Annette and Christian Schiller/ ombiasyPR & WineTours/ schiller-wine, Germany, France, USA (March 1, 2018)

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Picture: Annette and Christian Schiller in Washington DC

Below is a list of the wine tours, wine dinners and wine tastings planned by Annette and Christian Schiller/ ombiasyPR & WineTours/ schiller-wine for the coming months.

For questions concerning the ombiasy wine tours please consult the ombiasy website.

For all other events please send me (cschiller@schiller-wine.com) or Annette (aschiller@ombiasypr.com) an e-mail.

March 2018

April 2018

McLean, Virginia, Friday April 6: Affordable Bordeaux - Tasting at the American Wine Society (Northern Virginia Chapter) lead by Annette Schiller

Washington DC, Sunday April 8: Winemaker Dinner with Christian Stahl of Winzerhof Stahl/ Franken at Restaurant BToo

Washington DC, Saturday April 14: DC Wine Fest, ombiasy booth with Annette and Christian Schiller

Washington DC, Friday April 20: Abbey Wines - Tasting at the German Wine Society (Washington DC Chapter) lead by Annette Schiller

May 2018

Washington DC, Monday, May 7: Winemaker Dinner with Château Lafon-Rochet, Saint-Estèphe, 4ième Grand Cru Classé

Washington DC, Tuesday May 8: Winemaker Dinner with Diana Paulin of Château Haut-Bailly, Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé at Restaurant BToo

Germany and Alsace, May 12 - May 20: 2018 Germany-South and Alsace Tour by ombiasy WineTours

June 2018

Germany, June 12 - June 21: 2018 Germany-East Tour by ombiasy WineTours

July 2018

August 2018

McLean, Virginia, August: Annual Riesling Party at the Schiller Residence in McLean

September 2018

Frankfurt, Germany, September: Tasting the Best of Virginia Wines in Frankfurt - Virginia Governor's Cup Case 2017

Bordeaux, France, September 4 - 13: 2018 Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Bourgogne, France, September 20 - 30: 2018 Burgundy Tour by ombiasy WineTours

October 2018

Rhône Valley, France, October 15 - 24: 2018 Rhône Valley Tour by ombiasy WineTours

November 2018

Buffalo, New York State, November 1 - 4: Germany, Burgundy and Alsace Tastings at the National Conference of the American Wine Society lead by Annette Schiller

December 2018

schiller-wine: Related Postings

Best Value of Bordeaux Tasting with Annette Schiller at the American Wine Society, USA/ France

Lunch with Christian L. Stahl, Winzerhof Stahl, Franken: Not only a Gifted Winemaker but also a Gifted Chef - Germany-East Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Germany meets France: Bourgogne, Baden, Alsace and Pfalz - Tasting with the German Wine Society (Washington DC Chapter), led by Annette Schiller, USA/ France/ Germany

At the Invitation of Owner Michel Tesseron: Private Dinner at Château Lafon-Rochet, Saint-Estèphe, 4ième Grand Cru Classé – Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Tour and Wine Dinner at Château Haut-Bailly, Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017, France

Ombiasy Wine Tours 2018: 3 x France and 3 x Germany - Ombiasy Newsletter December 2017

Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: Baden, Alsace, Pfalz and Rheinhessen

Germany-East Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours: Wine, Art, Culture and History

Annual Riesling Party at the Schiller Residence in Washington DC, USA (2017)

Tasting the Best of Virginia Wines in Frankfurt, Germany, with Stuart Pigott: Virginia Governor's Cup Case 2016

Total Immersion in Bordeaux: World Class Wines and Exquisite French Gourmet Cuisine - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France  

Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: From Lyon to Reims - Wine, Food, Culture and History

Rhône Valley Tour December 2017: From Lyon to Avignon - Wine, Food, Culture, History

The 2017 American Wine Society National Conference in the Pocono Mountains of Pennsylvania, USA: Seen Through Christian Schiller's Camera Lens







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