Pictures: Christian and Annette Schiller at the Pre-release Presentation of the 2019/ 20 Grosses Gewächs (GG) Wines at Schloss Vollrads, here with Desire Eser-Knyphausen and Dodo Knyphausen, Weingut August Eser

Germany’s Grosses Gewächs (GG) wines are released on September 1. These are the ultra-premium dry wines from the very best vineyard sites made by some of the best producers in Germany.

As a rule, the white wines are released in the year following the harvest, the red wines are released after an additional 12 months of aging. Increasingly, wine producers are giving their white wines more time and are releasing not only the red wines but also the white wines after 24 months. Thus, this year`s tasting included both vintage 2019 and vintage 2020 white wines.

Many events throughout Germany take place in the weeks and months following the release of the new GGs. In addition, there is a highly exclusive tasting for a selected group of about 150 importers, journalists, bloggers, sommeliers and other multipliers on the Monday and Tuesday before September 1 in Wiesbaden. You meet there the who-is-who of German wine. I regularly participated in this tasting during the past years and reported about it on my blog schiller-wine.

Pre-release Presentation of the 2019/ 20 GGs from the Rheingau

German producers take advantage of the high-caliber group gathering in Wiesbaden for the Pre-release Tasting and organize side events. 

For 8 years in a row, interrupted only through the Covid-crisis, the VDP producers of the Rheingau have organized a special event on the Saturday before the Wiesbaden tastings and presented their new GG releases to their guests. All winemakers introduce their wines personally. The more formal part is then supplemented by a party-style get-together with the winemakers and more tasting. 

8 years ago, this was a speed-boat event on the Rhine River including tasting. 7 years ago, the VDP.Rheingau flew their guests with helicopters over the Rheingau, from Hochheim to Assmannshausen, followed by a party at Weingut Robert Weil (Wilhelm Weil is the President of the VDP.Rheingau). 6 years ago, we went into the terroir; this was a most interesting conference-type tasting were we learned a lot about the different terroirs of the Rheingau from its producers. Again, the tasting was followed by an after-party at Weingut Robert Weil. 5 years ago, we took a boat trip from Hochheim to Assmannshausen and tasted the wines as we passed the vineyards. 3 years ago, went back to the roots and focussed on the history of dry wines in the Rheingau. The event took place at Weingut Robert Weil. Last year, the tasting had to be cancelled due to covid.

See:

VDP.Rheingau Invited to a Pre-Release Presentation of the 2017 Grosses Gewächs (GG) Wines
VDP.Rheingau Rhine River Boat Trip with Pre-release Presentation of the 2015 Grosses Gewächs (GG) Wines
The Rheingau and its Terroirs: Tasting with Rheingau’s Elite Winemakers, Germany
Extraordinary Views of the Rheingau Vineyards - A Spectecular Helicopter Flight over the Rheingau with Rheingau Winemakers, Germany

Grosses Gewächs (GG)

What is a VDP.Grosses Gewächs? There is still a bit of confusion out there, as (1) Grosses Gewaechs (GG) is a term that was created by the VDP only a few years ago and (2) the VDP has established a new classification for German wines that differs radically from the German standard classification (and is still in the process of refining and implementing it).

GGs and the New German Wine Classification

Although many people think that there is only one wine classification system in Germany – the classification system of the Law of 1971 – this is not correct. True, the classification system of the Law of 1971 is the standard classification system in Germany and the vast majority of winemakers in Germany use this approach. A large number of winemakers, however, have moved away from the standard, in particular the VDP producers.

In a nutshell, the VDP is moving to a classification system that resembles very much the classification system in the Bourgogne. The classification of the VDP puts the terroir principle at the center of its classification approach.

With the latest modifications of 2012, the absolutely finest vineyards are called Grosse Lage and dry wines from these super top vineyards are called Grosses Gewächs. Grosses Gewächs wines are the finest dry wines from Germany’s finest vineyards.

A step below are the Erste Lage wines. There is now talk about calling the dry wines from Erste Lage vineyards Erstes Gewächs.

See:
Steffen Christmann (Weingut A. Christmann) and Wilhelm Weil (Weingut Robert Weil) Presented the New Wine Classification of the VDP, Germany

The Rheingau

It is remarkable: For its entire length of nearly 560 miles, the Rhine flows north with one exception – a 28-mile stretch where the river changes its course. Here, it flows to the west, thereby enabling both the river and the vineyards facing it to bask in the warmth of the sun all day long. This is the Rheingau, one of the medium-size German wine regions. It is a quietly beautiful region, rich in tradition. Queen Victoria's enthusiasm for Hochheim's wines contributed to their popularity in England, where they, and ultimately, Rhine wines in general, were referred to as Hock.

The third President of the USA - and notable bon viveur - Thomas Jefferson visited the Rheingau in 1788 and wrote that the wine of the "Abbaye of Johnsberg is the best made on the Rhine without comparison … That of the year 1775 is the best." He also referred to the Rheingau’s Riesling as the "small and delicate Rhysslin which grows only from Hochheim to Rudesheim". Impressed by the quality of the Rheingau Riesling wines, he bought 100 grapevines to take back to his estate in Virginia.

Picture: The Rheingau

Although the Rheingau is one of Germany’s smaller wine-growing regions, its 3,100 ha (7,660 acres) of vineyards are vastly diverse in their geological makeup. The soil varies from stony slate at the western part near the villages of Assmannshausen and Rüdesheim to loess, sand and marl in the lower central villages of Geisenheim, Johannisberg, Winkel, Oestrich and Hattenheim. Soil reverts to stony phyllite in the higher central and eastern villages of Hallgarten, Kiedrich and Hochheim. Generally, wines from the lower slopes where the soil is heavier—sandy loam and loess—produce fuller wines, while at the higher slopes where it is more stony and slatey, the wines reflect more minerality, elegance and concentration.

The Rheingau enjoys a distinctly continental climate with cold winters and warm, but not hot, summers. The Rheingau is dominated by Riesling, accounting for 4/5 of the vineyard area. Pinot Noir accounts for 1/10 and is concentrated around Assmannshausen.

The 2021 VDP.Rheingau GG Event

The event had 4 parts.

First, we started with a boat trip that took us down the Rhine from Wiesbaden Biebrich to Oestrich Winkel. The focus of the boat trip was on ultra-premium Sekt.

Second, in Oestrich Winkel we visited "Anleger Allendorf", a new restaurant on the Rhine run by Weingut Allendorf, and the historic "Brentanohaus", also run by Weingut Allendorf.

Third, a bus took us from there to Schloss Vollrads, where we spent the rest of the day. At the center was an extensive tasting of 29 new GGs from the Rheingau, introduced by the respective producer.

Fourth, following the tasting, some of us took a little tour of Schloss Vollrads. We all ended the day with dinner, music and more wine.

Pictures: Leaving Wiesbaden Biebrich on Board of the Rhein Dream

Part 1: The new VDP Classification of Sekt: VDP.Sekt and VDP.Sekt.Prestige

We started the event with a 90 minutes boat trip down the Rhine from Wiesbaden Biebrich to Oestrich Winkel. The focus of the boat trip was on ultra-premium Sekt.

There are now two standards of Sekt - VDP.SEKT and VDP.SEKT.PRESTIGE®. Traditional bottle fermentation is obligatory for both. Vintage Sekts must be granted at least 24 months (VDP.SEKT) or 36 months (VDP.SEKT.PRESTIGE®) on the lees. Grand Sekts may also mature well beyond those minimum guidelines. The VDP's strict production regulations will also apply for the production of Sekt base wines. A dedicated VDP specification guide has also been developed to provide other mandatory Sekt parameters. This includes, for example, stipulations that Sekt produced in accordance with the VDP.SEKT.STATUT must originate from the estate’s own suitable vineyards. From pruning to harvest - which traditionally falls on the early side for sparkling wines - all vineyard work and harvesting is to be performed by hand. Beyond this, each region will define its own permissible varieties for VDP.SEKT and VDP.SEKT.PRESTIGE®, typically Riesling and the Pinot family, supplemented by regional classics. This flexibility at the regional level reflects the insight that a Sekt classification focused tightly on origin overlooks some admirable parts of the spectrum of fine German sekts. As a result, varietal blends and cuvées from single sites will also be allowed.

5 Rheingau VDP producers presented their world class Sekts, so little known in the world. But things are changing and consumers from around the world are increasingly appreciating the outstanding sparklers from Germany.

Pictures: Tasting Ultra-premium German Sparkling Wines - VDP.SEKT and VDP.SEKT.PRESTIGE - with Mark Barth, Wein- und Sektgut Barth, Gunter Künstler, Weingut Künstler and Ralf Schönleber, Wein- und Sektgut F.B. Schönleber. Wilhelm Weil, Weingut Robert Weil, did not Present a Sparkler, but just helped pouring.

Part 2: Weingut Allendorf - Anleger Allendorf and Brentanohaus

In Oestrich Winkel we visited "Anleger Allendorf", a new restaurant on the Rhine run by Weingut Allendorf, and the historic "Brentanohaus", also run by Weingut Allendorf.

The Brentanohaus was built in the middle of the 18th century by the Ackermann family from Bingen, and has been in the possession of the Brentano family whose ancestors come from an Italian noble family for almost 200 years. The ancestors, coming from the wine-growing region around Lake Como, "nobiles de Brenta, dicti de Brentanis" have a "Brenta", i.e. a wooden tub for grapes, in their coat of arms. Towards the end of the 17th century the family settled in the trade town of Frankfurt where it founded a branch of the rapidly flourishing Milan trading house. In 1804, the family acquired the elongated building with the vast mansard roof which is surrounded by an extensive garden and a wall. In summer the estate in Winkel was the centre of the big family and meeting place for their circle of friends. Among their friends were well-known personalities from arts and science who were followers of Romanticism such as e.g. Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, the brothers Grimm and many more. Originally preserved rooms and parlours in the Brentanohaus convey an impression of the living culture and the sense of life during this time.  

Pictures: At Anleger Allendorf and Brentanohaus, here Annette Schiller with Catharina Mauritz, 8th Generation Owner of Weingut Domdechant Werner 

Part 3: The new VDP.Grosses Gewächs Wines, at Schloss Vollrats

At the center was an extensive tasting of 29 new GGs from the Rheingau, introduced by the respective producer.We tasted 26 whites from 2019 and 2020 and 3 reds from 2019. The tasting took place in the historic rooms of Schloss Vollrads.

Schloss Vollrads 

Schloss Vollrads is a historical monument and one of the art-historical highlights of the Rheingau region. It is also one of the oldest wine estates in the world; wine sales have been documented as early as 1211.

Picture: Arriving at Schloss Vollrads

The impressive tower house, built in 1330, was constructed on the foundation of a roman defense tower.

Schloss Vollrads was owned since 983 until 1218 by the Archbishop of Mainz and since then until 1997 by the family of Greiffenclau. In 1997 – in view of unsurmountable debts - Count Erwein Matuschka-Greiffenclau committed suicide and since then the Nassauische Bank, a government-owned bank, is the owner of Schloss Vollrads.

Picture: At Schloss Vollrads

Schloss Vollrads is a rather large estate by German standards, with 60 hectares of vineyard land, and produces exclusively Riesling wines. Some of the vineyards were already in the possession of the Greiffenclau family in 1300. 

Tasting

The wines were presented in flights of 3 wines. Most of the producers were present and introduced their wines personally. The tasting took place in one of the larger rooms of Schloss Vollrads.

Pictures: VDP.Rheingau Producers presenting their new Grosses Gewächs Wines

Parts 4 and 5: Tour and Dinner, Music, and More Wine

The day ended with a dinner party. Some of us toured part of Schloss Vollrads.

Pictures: Dinner, Music and more Wine

schiller-wine - Related Postings

VDP.Rheingau Invited to a Pre-Release Presentation of the 2017 Grosses Gewächs (GG) Wines

VDP.Rheingau Rhine River Boat Trip with Pre-release Presentation of the 2015 Grosses Gewächs (GG) Wines

The Rheingau and its Terroirs:Tasting with Rheingau’s Elite Winemakers, Germany

Extraordinary Views of the Rheingau Vineyards - A Spectecular Helicopter Flight over the Rheingau with Rheingau Winemakers, Germany

Steffen Christmann (Weingut A. Christmann) and Wilhelm Weil (Weingut Robert Weil) Presented the New Wine Classification of the VDP, Germany

Tour and Wine Tasting with Lunch, with Mark Barth at Wein- und Sektgut Barth in Hattenheim, Rheingau– Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Kloster Eberbach in the Rheingau: Tour and Wine Tasting - Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Lighting and the Flavor of Wine - With Winemaker Ulrich Allendorfin his Aroma Vineyard and Color Room at Weingut Allendorf in Oestrich Winkel, Rheingau, Germany

Cellar Visit and Tasting at Weingut Wegeler in Oestrich-Winkel, Rheingau - Germany-North Tour 2019 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential Riesling

At Weingut Balthasar Ress in Hattenheim, Rheingau, during the 2015 Harvest with Winemaker Dirk Würtz, Germany

Tour and Tasting at Schloss Johannisberg, Rheingau, with Christian Witte, Domaine Director– Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), Germany

Tour and Tasting at Weingut von Oetinger, Rheingau, with Achim von Oetinger– Germany-North 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Vineyard Walk, Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting at Weingut Künstler– Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Kiedrich: Visit of the Basilica of Saint Valentine and of Weingut Robert Weil- Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Impromptu Winetasting with Alexander Jung,Weingut Jakob Jung, Erbach, Rheingau, Germany

Schloss Vollrads in the Rheingau: Tour and Tasting- Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Lunch, Cellar Visit and Tasting at Weingut Baron Knyphausen in Erbach, Rheingau, with Owner Gerko Freiherr zu Knyphausen and Winemaker Arne Willkens - Germany-North Tour 2019 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential Riesling

Tour and Tasting at Weingut Spreitzer in Oestrich, Rheingau, with Bernd Spreitzer – Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), Germany

Meeting Winemaker/Owner Desiree Eser, Weingut August Eser, on the Banks of the Rhein River in the Rheingau in Germany

Pictures: Meeting 3 Superstars and an old Friend: Tasting at the Veritable Groupe Show in Frankfurt with Eve Faiveley of Domaine Faively, Matthieu Perrin of Famille Perrin and Château de Beaucastel, Jean Frédéric Hugel of Famille Hugel and Tony Smith of Quinta de Covela

The Veritable Groupe wine trade show 2021 took place in Frankfurt on September 6 and 7. It brought to Frankfurt the about 100 wine producers of the Veritable Groupe portfolio. Annette and I were happy to be able to attend the trade show and taste wines with top winemakers mostly from France, but also Germany and other European countries. We were thrilled to meet again in person, producers and owners of many renowed estates, in particular 

Eve Faveley of Domaine Faively, an estate we visit regularly on the Bourgogne tours by ombiasy winetours; recently we saw each other at Faively winemaker dinner at the Kronenschlösschen in the Rheingau;

Matthieu Perrin from the Perrin family with their flagship estate Château de Beaucastel; recently Annette saw Matthieu at a winemaker dinner at Kronenschlösschen with superstar chef Christian Bau,

Jean Frédéric Hugel from the Famille Hugel, the legendary Alsace producer in Riquewhir; a couple of years ago Jean Frédéric gave us a memorable tour when we were in Alsace during a Germany South/ Alsace tour by ombiasy winetours, and finally 

Tony Smith, owner of Quinta de Covela, Vinho Verde Region in the Douro Valley; we spent a wonderful evening and night at Quinta de Covela a few years ago as part of an European Wine Bloggers Conference.

There were so many others, from superstars like Augusto Boffa of Pio Cesare and Sofia Thanisch of Weingut Witwe Dr. H. Thanisch Erben to the up and coming Karsten Peters of Weingut F. & F. Peters. Karsten Peters has been making wines since 1998, including for 13 years at Weingut St. Antony, but in 2017 Karsten decided to move on an create his own estate, which now accounts for 4,5 hectars. 

Superstar: Eve Faively of Domaine Faiveley, Bourgogne

Domaine Joseph Faiveley is one of the biggest domains in the Bourgogne and, many would argue, one of the best. This illustrious company has been based in Nuits St Georges since the days of Pierre Faiveley who founded the business in 1825. His son Joseph gave his name to the family business, to be followed by (1) the first François, (2) Georges who was instrumental in founding the Chevaliers du Tastevin, (3) Guy who developed the business in the Côte Chalonnaise, (4) François who recently retired and (5) now his children Eve and Erwan. 

We have visited Domaine Joseph Faiveley several times. Last time, in 2019, Matilde Nicolas, Communications Director, was out host.

 

Pictures: Eve Faiveley with Annette and Christian Schiller at the Rheingau Gourmet und Wein Festival in Hattenheim, Germany

See: Dinner with Eve Faiveley, Domaine Faiveley, Nuits St. Georges, Bourgogne and 2-star-Michelin Chef Thomas Kellermann, Relais & Châteaux Park Hotel Egerner Höfe, Tegernsee, at the Rheingau Gourmet und Wein Festival in Hattenheim, Germany

A few days ago, we enjoyed very much a tasting of the vintage with owner Eve Faiveley in Frankfurt at the veritable groupe show. 

Pictures: Tasting with Eve Faiveley of Domaine Faiveley at the Veritable Groupe Show in Frankfurt

Superstar: Matthieu Perrin of Perrin Family, Château de Beaucastel and Tablas Creek

wine-searcher.com: Famille Perrin is a leading wine producer and négociant in the southern Rhône Valley. The business was established in 1997, and today makes wines from some of the region's most famous appellations, including Vacqueyras, Gigondas and Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

The Perrin family has been making wine in the region since the early 1900s, when scientist Pierre Perrin inherited the Château de Beaucastel estate. Perrin's grandchildren, François and Jean-Pierre, founded the Famille Perrin business together before passing on the reins two years later to the fifth-generation Perrin, Pierre, in 1999.

In addition to its renowned Château de Beaucastel estate, Famille Perrin's portfolio includes Miraval, Domaine du Clos des Tourelles and La Vielle Ferme. Domaine du Clos des Tourelles is situated in Gigondas and comprises 10 hectares (25 acres) of vineyards planted to 80 percent Grenache, with smaller plantings of Syrah, Cinsaut and Mourvèdre. The La Vielle Ferme brand was established in the 1970s, and comprises a range of red, rosé and white wines from vineyards in Ventoux and Luberon. Famille Perrin uses organic and biodynamic approaches in its vineyards.

Also, the Perrin family owns jointly with the Haas family the famous Tablas Creek Estate in Paso Robles, California.

Annette Schiller met sixth generation Perrin, Matthieu, at a winemaker dinner in 2020, the last one she attended before the corona crisis. 

See: Exceptional Winemaker Dinner: Owner Matthieu Perrin of Château de Beaucastel, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Owner Christian Ress of Weingut Balthasar Ress, Rheingau and 3 Star Michelin Chef Christian Bau of Victor's Fine Dining in Perl-Nenning at the Rheingau Gourmet & Wein Festival 2020 in Kronenschlösschen in Hattenheim, Rheingau, Germany 

Unfortunately, we have never been to Château de Beaucastel, Châteauneuf-du-Pape,but have been to Tablas Greek and have attended winemaker dinners with Tablas Creek co-owner and winemaker Jason Haas in Washington DC.

Picture: Christian Schiller and Jason Haas of Tablas Creek in Washington DC

See: Tablas Creek Wines from Paso Robles and Belgian Food at Brasserie Beck with Tablas Greek GM Jason Haas and Chef Robert Wiedmaier in Washington DC, USA 

At the veritable group show, showed us the whole range of his wines. We also discussed the forthcoming Rhône Valley by ombiasy winetours and agreed to have a tasting at Domaine du Clos des Tourelles in Gigondas as there is major construction going on at Château de Beaucastel.

Superstar: Jean Frédéric Hugel from Famille Hugel, Alsace

Famille Hugel is one of the major producers of Alsace wine, and has been an important force in the Alsace wine industry in its developments during the second half of the 20th century. For over 370 years and with 13-family generations the Hugel family has unrivaled experience and knowledge of Alsace vineyards and winemaking. Known today for their passion and modern outlook, the dynamic Hugel family, located in the picture-postcard fortified village of Riquewihr, has earned a worldwide reputation for their Alsace wines.

Picture: Tasting at Hugel in Riquewihr with Owner Jean Frédéric Hugel

Owner Jean Frédéric Hugel was our host at the Germany-South and Alsace 2017 tour by ombiasy winetours. We toured the winery, which is situated right in the center of Riquewihr, and then sat down for a most impressive tasting, including a wine fom 1945. 

See: Tour and Tasting at Hugel in Riquewhir, Alsace, with Jean Frédéric Hugel - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

I had established contact with Jean Frédéric at the 5. Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle, Washington State, USA.

See:  5. Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle, Washington State: Overview

Picture: Felix Meyer of Domaine Meyer-Fonne, Jean Frédéric Hugel and Christian Schiller

In Frankfurt, Jean Frédéric introduced us to the new vintage and the in and outs of the pass sanitare that is now required in France for something like a visit of the Hugel Estate. Annette plans to visit Hugel during the forthcoming Germany-South/ Alsace Tour by ombiasy winetours in the middle of 2022.

Pictures: Tasting with Jean Frédéric Hugel, Famille Hugel, Alsace, at the Veritable Groupe Show in Frankfurt

Old Friend: Owner Tony Smith of Quinta Corvela, Douro Valley, Portugal 

The 2013 Digital Wine Communications Conference (DWCC) in Logroño, La Rioja, Spain, did not only take me to Spain, but also to Portugal. The conference included 3 pre-conference press trips, including one to the Douro Valley.

One of the highlights was our stay at Quinta de Covela in the Vinho Verde Region. After a period of neglect, Quinta de Covela was purchased in 2011 and brought back to life by two impassioned wine lovers, one from Brazil and one from England. The latter, Tony Smith, orchestrated our visit.

Picture: Christian Schiller and Tony Smith at Quinta de Covela

See: Wining and Dining at the Reborn Quinta de Covela, Vinho Verde Region in the Douro Valley, with Owner Tony Smith and Winemaker Rui Cunha, Portugal

I will never forget the stay at Quinta de Covela and was thrilled to meet Tony again in Frankfurt. He showed us new vintages of wines he had already produced while we were there as well as new wines.

Pictures: Tasting with Tony Smith of Quinta de Covela at the Veritable Groupe Show in Frankfurt

schiller-wine - Related Postings

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Faiveley in Nuits-Saint-George, Côte de Nuits, with Matilde Nicolas, Communications Director - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2018, France  

Dinner with Eve Faiveley, Domaine Faiveley, Nuits St. Georges, Bourgogne and 2-star-Michelin Chef Thomas Kellermann, Relais & Châteaux Park Hotel Egerner Höfe, Tegernsee, at the Rheingau Gourmet und Wein Festival in Hattenheim, Germany

Exceptional Winemaker Dinner: Owner Matthieu Perrin of Château de Beaucastel, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Owner Christian Ress of Weingut Balthasar Ress, Rheingau and 3 Star Michelin Chef Christian Bau of Victor's Fine Dining in Perl-Nenning at the Rheingau Gourmet & Wein Festival 2020 in Kronenschlösschen in Hattenheim, Rheingau, Germany 

Tour and Tasting at Hugel in Riquewhir, Alsace, with Jean Frédéric Hugel - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours 

5. Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle, Washington State: Overview  

Wining and Dining at the Reborn Quinta de Covela, Vinho Verde Region in the Douro Valley, with Owner Tony Smith and Winemaker Rui Cunha, Portugal

Annette Schiller and I enjoyed a wonderful dinner at L'Ecume in the Nordend yesterday. We celebrated our 45th wedding anniversary. Chef and owner Alexandre Sadowczyk is French. He came to Frankfurt in 2014. L’Ecume is his first own restaurant, a small bistro that could be in the 7th arrondissement in Paris, where we used to live. 

Alexandre Sadowczyk wants to offer fusion cuisine, French flair with a local twist. Reflecting his roots, Alexandre Sadowczyk`s wine list is dominated by French wines and in particular strong in terms of Champagnes. 

Alexandre Sadowczyk started his career in Frankfurt at Lafleuer (2 stars Michelin) and also worked at Weinsinn (1 star Michelin). 

The menu is small. This month there are 9 items on it. You can choose between any of them, starting with 4 courses for Euro 65. Annette and I both took the 5 courses menu with accompanying wines (for Euro 45). Between the two of us, except for the meat course, we were able to taste all courses on ther menu. 

L'Ecume is listed in the Michelin Guide, but not (yet) in the Gault Millau Guide. I would put L'Ecume at 15 points in terms of the Gault Millau Guide rating system. The food reminded me very much of bidlabu (15 points) and SchauMahl (15 points). 

Yesterday, we were dining with 6 other people in the restaurant. Chef de Restaurant/ Sommelier David John Zisow, a compatriot from the Washington DC area, took very good care of us. 

Menu

Aperitif

Aubergine Pflaume - Kapern
Tomate Feigen - Burrata 

Meeräsche Grüner Erbsen - Cantaloup Melone - Rosemarin

 „Frankfurter 7 Grüne Kräuter“ 

Petits Fours

45th Wedding Anniversary

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Picture: Tour and Lunch at Château Desmirail, Appellation Margaux, 3ième Grand Cru Classé, with Owner Denis Lurton

Château Desmirail is another château owned by a member of the Lurton family (the fourth on this tour). Lucien Lurton acquired this property in 1980 and passed it on to his son Denis - a lawyer by profession - in 1992. Before that the château changed hands several times: the château belonged to the Desmirail family until just before the 1855 classification, when it was purchased by Monsieur Sipière, the estate manager at Château Margaux. It was under his ownership that Desmirail was classified as a Troisième Grand Cru Classé. In the early 20s century the property was owned by Robert de Mendelssohn, the nephew of the famous German composer. Shortly before the outbreak of the Second World War it came into the ownership of Château Palmer until 1980. Today, Château Desmirail belongs to the group of the „under the radar“ châteaux.

Denis Lurton was our host. We had a light lunch at Château Desmirail. Before lunch, Denis showed us around and conducted a tasting with us.

Pictures: Tour and Lunch at Château Desmirail, Appellation Margaux, 3ième Grand Cru Classé, with Owner Denis Lurton

History

Denis Lurton: The name DESMIRAIL has been associated with wine production in the Médoc region since the end of the seventeenth century. Jean Desmirail, a lawyer in Bordeaux's parliament, gave his name to the property when he received it as part of his wife’s, Demoiselle Rausan du Ribail dowry.

The château belonged to the Desmirail family until just before the 1855 classification, when it was purchased by Monsieur Sipière, the estate manager at Château Margaux. It was under his ownership that Desmirail was classified as a Troisième Grand Cru Classé (third growth).

Pictures: Tour and Lunch at Château Desmirail, Appellation Margaux, 3ième Grand Cru Classé, with Owner Denis Lurton

Pictures: Tour and Lunch at Château Desmirail, Appellation Margaux, 3ième Grand Cru Classé, with Owner Denis Lurton

3 Different Vat Rooms

Denis Lurton: Desmirail's remarkable winery buildings date from the end of the nineteenth century, and reflect various architectural styles. There are three vat rooms, corresponding to different periods in the property's history.

- At the end of the nineteenth century, an invention arrived that revolutionized vat rooms: the Médoc Vat Room, which operates by gravity. A remarkable example was built at Desmirail; typical of the period, it consists of an exceptional roof structure in the shape of the inverted hull of a ship, and then underneath there are cast iron pillars (emblematic of the industrial era). This room has held four oak casks since 1999.

- In 1997, Denis Lurton invested in a modern stainless steel vat room, with vats of various capacities to enable vinification on a plot-by-plot basis.

- During the 2010 harvest, a smaller vat room was inaugurated, consisting of oak vats, reserved mainly for the vinification of the older plots.

The property is also equipped with three cellar rooms, displaying a combination of traditional architecture and modern features, they are used to store barrels of the First and Second wine.

In the modernisation of these facilities, Denis Lurton and Technical Director Pierre Lafeuillade have been able to optimize and customize the existing buildings while at the same time preserving their original character.

Pictures: Tour and Lunch at Château Desmirail, Appellation Margaux, 3ième Grand Cru Classé, with Owner Denis Lurton

The Birth of the Wine

Denis Lurton: Harvests: Each wine is the result of a year's work in the vineyard. The grapes are hand-picked by a team of sixty people. After being transported to the vat room, the bunches are de-stemmed and the grapes are sorted and crushed, before being vinified on a plot-by-plot basis. This vinification of each parcel enables an expression of the diversity of the terroir and of the individual grape varieties.

Vinifications: Two types of vat are used for vinification: oak and stainless steel. The wooden ones are preferred for the older plots. Traditional vinification techniques are employed, with steady, gentle extraction, adapted to each grape variety.

Blending: The pivotal stage in the creation of each vintage is the blending wich is carried out in November. The owner, assisted by the technical director and the consultant oenologist, Jacques Boissenot, select which vats will be used to make Desmirail (the First wine) and Initial de Desmirail (the Second wine). The decision is based on a consensus between the team at the property and the oenologist, who brings his experience and an external eye.

Maturing: The wines are matured in barrels for about a year. For the Grand Vin, the percentage of new barrels varies depending on the vintage but is never less than 30 %. Approximately every three months, the wines are racked in order to clarify them. Finally, after a year, the wines are blended in the wooden vats and given a final clarification with egg white.

Bottling: This takes place at the château about twenty months after the harvest.

The Wines

We tasted 2 wines, the grand vin 2012 and the second wine, also 2012.

Pictures: Tour and Lunch at Château Desmirail, Appellation Margaux, 3ième Grand Cru Classé, with Owner Denis Lurton

Lunch

Following the winery tour we enjoyed a light lunch with matching Desmirail wines at the château.

Pictures: Tour and Lunch at Château Desmirail, Appellation Margaux, 3ième Grand Cru Classé, with Owner Denis Lurton

Bye-bye

Pictures: Bye-bye

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Pictures: German Wine Society (Washington DC Chapter): Return to in-person Events with a Wine Cruise on the Potomac

On July 10, 2021, from 4-6 pm, the German Wine Society’s Capital Chapter held its first in-person event since the membership meeting in February 2020 before the start of the covid-19 pandemic, a summer wine cruise on the Potomac aboard the Nightingale operated by Potomac River Cruises. The event was sold out with 50 German wine lovers joining us.

Announcement

Get ready to cast off on the Potomac for a German wine cruise! Yes, the Capital Chapter of the German Wine Society is resuming in-person events this summer. Our kick-off will be an experience we have missed for several years (though it was a regular event from 2010-2013 and earlier), the traditional GWS summer wine cruise past the beautiful river banks and monuments of our nation’s Capital, passing Hains Point and the newly redeveloped Southwest Waterfront. 

Please join us to enjoy many wines from Germany and other countries as we cruise along the Potomac for two hours, from 4 pm to 6 pm on Saturday, July 10, 2021. We will board Capitol River Cruises’ Nightingale II from the Georgetown waterfront, at 3050 K Street N.W., Washington, D.C. - the end of 31st Street, by the Fiola Mare restaurant. Be sure to be on the wharf before departure time - the cruise boat cannot wait for late arrivals! We can accommodate only 45 guests on the Nightingale II for this event, so reserve early to avoid disappointment. Reservations for this event are due by Tuesday, July 6, 2021, to give us sufficient time to have enough wine for all aboard. Parking is readily available in garages along the Georgetown riverfront, and it is possible to walk from Metro at the Foggy Bottom station as well. 

We will be providing all the wines for this event, as well as disposable plastic glasses and cutlery, paper plates and napkins. Guests should plan to bring their own food on board for greater safety, though we may provide some surprise treats. This will be a relaxing cruise, with no presentation, allowing everyone to concentrate on the wines, good company and atmosphere. There are many outdoor and indoor dining establishments along the Georgetown waterfront for dinner after the cruise, which we encourage you to try. The Nightingale II is a boat we have used for some previous cruises, and is all on one level, with tables and chairs, and a bar from which we can serve wines. It also has protection against inclement weather, though we have been fortunate with our past wine cruises and reasonably hope for a sunny afternoon once again. The cruise will take place rain or shine, unless weather conditions do not allow the cruise to set out safely, in which case we will reschedule or provide refunds. The wines for our cruise will be a mixture of whites and reds, mostly German but with some other international and U.S. wines included as well for variety - all with some German or Austrian grape connection. Get ready to savor some very special, high-prädikat wines! We want to remind everyone of the lovely qualities of German wines we have missed sharing with each other in-person. 

Here’s the wine list we have planned: 

nv Peter Lauer Riesling Sparkling Mosel

nv Dr. Loosen Riesling Sparkling Mosel 

2018 Villa Wolf Pinot Gris or Gewürztraminer Pfalz 

2017 Dr. Loosen Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Mosel 

2014 Otium Blaufränkisch, United States 

2015 Otium Gruner Veltliner, United States 

2012 Shelter Winery Spatburgunder, Baden 

2016 Clemens Busch von Roten Schiefer Riesling Mosel 

2017 Bernkasteler Doctor Riesling Kabinett Mosel 

2015 St. Christopher Piesporter Goldtropfchen Riesling Spatlese Mosel 

2015 Max Ferd. Juffer Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese 

2013 Siefried Nelson Sweet Riesling, New Zealand 

Pictures: German Wine Society (Washington DC Chapter): Return to in-person Events with a Wine Cruise on the Potomac

Our event cost is $63 for members and $70 for non-member guests. 

We are very pleased that it has become safe enough to contemplate doing in-person events once again, consistent with CDC guidelines and local D.C. health rules. For added security of our members, however, we request that you attend this event only if you have been fully vaccinated against covid-19. Hopefully, by the fall, vaccinations will be widespread enough that we will no longer need to insist on this for all in-person events, but our country and region are not quite there yet, and we want everyone to be able to feel secure in attending this special wine cruise. We have also been informed that the cruise company will ask our guests to wear masks when boarding and interacting with boat crew (the crew has also been vaccinated) but masks will not be required otherwise once everyone is aboard - a significant advantage of doing an outdoor event.

schiller-wine: Related Postings

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