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Photo Album: 4th Riesling Rendezvous (2013) in Seattle, Washington State, USA

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Picture: Riesling

The world of Riesling returned to Seattle in Washington State. The attraction was the 4th Riesling Rendezvous, a gathering of Riesling producers and enthusiasts from around the world.

Riesling Rendezvous is sponsored by Chateau Ste. Michelle, the Washington State giant wine producer and Weingut Dr. Loosen, one of Germany’s top Riesling producers from the Mosel Valley. The famous Eroica Riesling from Washington State is a joint venture of Ste. Michelle and Dr. Loosen. Riesling Rendezvous is the largest international gathering of Riesling producers and enthusiasts in the world. It features three days of tasting, discussing and learning about Riesling.

This posting is part of a series of a dozen or so postings on the 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle. The focus is on photos taken over the 21/2 days, in chronological order. I have posted sofar:

The 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle: Impressions from the Grand Tasting at Chateau Ste. Michelle in Woodinville, Washington State, USA
The World of Riesling in Seattle - Fourth Riesling Rendezvous in Washington State, USA
Coming Up in July: 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle, Washington State, USA 
The German Winemakers at the Forthcoming 4. Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle, Washington State, USA  

Picture: Pre-Riesling Rendezvous Dinner at the Boatshouse in Seattle - Ernst Loosen, his Crew and the German Winemakers in his Import Portfolio plus Helmut and Mrs. Doennhoff, see also: see also: Ernie and his Friends - The Loosen Bros. USA Portfolio Tour 2012

Riesling Rendezvous Grand Tasting

The 4th Riesling Rendezvous kicked off Sunday, July 14, with the Grand Tasting on Chateau Ste. Michelle’s winery grounds in Woodinville, about 15 miles from downtown Seattle. Almost 70 Riesling producers from seven countries - United States, Germany, Australia, Canada, New Zealand, Slovakia and Austria - presented their wines. From within the United States, wineries from seven states participated: Washington State, Oregon, Idaho, California, New York, New Jersey and Michigan.

Picture: Pacific Rim Head Winemaker Nicolas Quille and German Winemaker Carl von Schubert, Maximin Gruenhaus

Picture: Gunther Haug (right) and Felix Korb (left) , Geheimer Rat von Bassermann Jordan, see also: The German Winemakers at the Forthcoming 4. Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle, Washington State, USA  

Pictures: From top to bottom: Fred Loimer, Weingut Loimer, Markus Huber, Weingut Huber, Emmerich Knoll, Weingut Knoll, Heinz Frischgruber, Domäne Wachau, see also: Wine Producer Austria - Not Only Gruener Veltliner

Picture: California Winemaker Zeke Neeley, Trefethen Family Vineyards, and Christian G.E. Schiller in Woodinville

Picture: Pacific Rim Head Winemaker Nicolas Quille and Winemaker Steven Sealock, see also: Visiting Winemaker Steven Sealock at Pacific Rim Winemakers in Washington State, USA and see: Oregon Pinot Gris Symposium at Oak Knoll Winery in Hillsboro

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and US wine-author John Haeger, who lead one of the 2 International Riesling Tastings

Picture: Dave Breeden, Sheldrake Point Winery, see also: Celebrating the Release of the Finger Lakes 2011 Riesling in Washington DC, USA

Picture: Fred Merwarth (Winemaker, Vineyard Manager and Co-Owner), Hermann J. Wiemer Vienyards, see also: German Winemakers in the World: Hermann J. Wiemer, Finger Lakes, USA

Pictures: Winemaker Johannes Reinhardt, Anthony Road Wine Company and Kemmeter Wines, see also: The Wines and the Food at President Obama’s Inauguration Luncheon, January 21, 2013, USA

Picture: Loosen Bros. CEO Kirk Wille and Spouse, see also: Ernie and his Friends - The Loosen Bros. USA Portfolio Tour 2012

Picture: UK-based Wine Journalist Tim Atkin, who lead one of the 2 International Riesling Tastings. See also: The Tim Atkin Pinot Noir Taste-Off of October 2011: Germany Versus the Rest of the World - German Red Wines Show Strong Performance

Picture: Riesling Giant Stuart Pigott, see more: Late Night German Riesling Tasting with Riesling Gurus Paul Grieco and Stuart Pigott in Washington DC on the 2013 Riesling Road Trip, USA

Picture: Wine Blogger Mike Veseth and his Wife. Mike is professor emeritus of International Political Economy at the University of Puget Sound. He is the author of many books.

Picture: Stuart Pigott and Helmut Doennhoff, see also: Top 10 Riesling Producers in the World– Snooth 2012

Picture: Carl von Schubert, Weingut Maximin Gruenhaus - Schlosskellerei C. von Schubert, see also: Schiller’s Favorites at the 2013 Riesling and Co Tasting in New York City, USA.

Picture: Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, see also: Riesling, Pinot Noir and Indian Cuisine: A tête-à-tête Dinner with Winemaker Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at Rasika in Washington DC, USA

Picture: The German Tent

Picture: German Winemaker Helmut Doennhoff and Mrs. Doennhoff, Weingut Doennhoff, see also: Top 10 Riesling Producers in the World– Snooth 2012

Picture: Helmut Doennhoff, Weingut Doennhoff, see also: Top 10 Riesling Producers in the World– Snooth 2012

Picture: Steffen Christmann, Weingut A. Christmann and Fred Loimer, Weingut Loimer

Picture: Annegret Reh-Gartner, Weingut Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt, see also: The German Winemakers at the Forthcoming 4. Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle, Washington State, USA

Picture: Helmut Doennhoff and Carl von Schubert

Picture: Oliver Haag, Weingut Fritz Haag, see also: The German Winemakers at the Forthcoming 4. Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle, Washington State, USA

Picture: Helmut Doennhoff, Weingut Doennhoff, see also: Top 10 Riesling Producers in the World– Snooth 2012

Picture: Clemens Busch, Weingut Clemens Busch, see also: With Wine Maker Clemens Busch in Puenderich at his Winery in the Mosel Valley, Germany

Picture: Ernst Loosen and Hermann J. Wiemer

Pictures: Wilhelm Weil, Weingut Weil, and his Wines, see also: Visiting Wilhelm Weil at his Weingut Robert Weil in Kiedrich, Germany

Picture: Charles Smith, Charles Smith Wines

Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller, Chateau Ste. Michelle Winemaker Bob Bertheau and Chateau Ste. Michelle CEO Ted Baseler, see also: German American Wines: (1) Pacific Rim Riesling (2) Eroica and (3) Woelffer's Schillerwein

Picture: Clemens Busch from Weingut Clemens Busch in Germany, Christian G.E. Schiller and Hermann Wiemer, founder of Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyards in the Finger Lakes Region in New York State. For Weingut Clemens Busch, see: With Wine Maker Clemens Busch in Puenderich at his Winery in the Mosel Valley, Germany. For Hermann J. Wiemer, see: German Winemakers in the World: Hermann J. Wiemer, Finger Lakes, USA

First Day of Riesling Rendezvous

The Monday and Tuesday program events were held at the Bell Harbor International Conference Center located on Seattle's beautiful waterfront.

Picture: Bell Harbor International Conference Center located on Seattle's Beautiful Waterfront

About 300 attendees were at Monday and Tuesday's program events.

Pictures: Chateau Ste. Michelle CEO Ted Baseler, Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen and Falstaff Germany Co-publisher Ursula Haslauer

Picture: London-based Wine Journalist Tim Atkin and German Winemaker Carl von Schubert, Maximin Gruenhaus

Picture: Loosen Bros. CEO Kirk Wille and Riesling Guru Stuart Pigott

Picture: Wine Blogger Mike Veseth and his Wife. Mike is professor emeritus of International Political Economy at the University of Puget Sound. He is the author of many books

Picture: German Winemakers Helmut Doennhoff, Weingut Doennhoff and Annegret Reh-Gartner, Weingut Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt

Picture: Annegret Reh-Gartner, Weingut Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt and German Food and Wine Journalist Ursula Heinzelmann

On Monday, July 15, the morning started with opening remarks from Ernst Loosen, Ste. Michelle CEO Ted Baseler and global Riesling authority Stuart Pigott.

Pictures: Opening Remarks from Ste. Michelle CEO Ted Baseler, Ernst Loosen, and Global Riesling Authority Stuart Pigott

After that, 300 Riesling enthusiasts participated in a fascinating blind tasting of global dry Rieslings (20 wines). The tasting was moderated by US wine-author John Haeger.

Pictures: International Riesling Tasting, Dry

Picture: The First Row - Stuart Pigott, Kirk Wille, Bob Berteau, Ernst Loosen, Ste Michelle Vice President Douglas N. Gore and Ste. Michelle President Ted Baseler

Picture: The Austrian Crew with Emmerich Knoll, Weingut Knoll, and Markus Huber, Weingut Huber, see also: Wine Producer Austria - Not Only Gruener Veltliner

Picture: Steffen Christmann, Weingut A. Christmann

Picture: Tim Atkin

Picture: Helmut Doennhoff, Weingut Doennhoff, Oliver Haag, Weingut Fritz Haag and Steffen Christmann, Weingut A. Christmann, see also: The German Winemakers at the Forthcoming 4. Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle, Washington State, USA

Lunch featured Northwest wines.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller Lunching with Pacific Rim GM and Head Winemaker Nicolas Quille

After lunch, three breakout sessions took place in parallel:

“Riesling’s Outer Limits” with Stuart Pigott.
“Proving that Terroir Matters” with Dr. Ulrich Fischer.
“Winemakers Roundtable: To Blend or not to Blend” led by Bob Bertheau of Chateau Ste. Michelle and Ernst Loosen.

Picture: Riesling’s Outer Limits, with Stuart Pigott

The afternoon concluded with special walk-around tastings:

Pairing Riesling with Smoked Salmon with German food writer Ursula Heinzelmann
Riesling and Cheese Tasting presented by Oregon’s Rogue Creamery
Riesling Taste Test: How Dry/Sweet is it? Where would you place it on the IRF scale? Presented by the International Riesling Foundation
Riesling Friendly Appetizers
Wines from Idaho, New York State and Germany.

Picture: German Winemaker Wilherlm Weil, Weingut Weil, chatting

Picture: Ursula Heinzelmann advising on salmon and wine

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and German Winemaker Oliver Haag, Weingut Fritz Haag

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and German Winemaker and VDP President Steffen Christmann, Weingut A. Christmann

Pictures: Oyster and Trefethen Dry Riesling - On the side of the 4th Riesling Rendezvous, Jon Rowley organized a small event with California Winemaker Zeke Neeley, Trefethen Family Vineyards, and Oysters. The Trefethen Dry Riesling was one of the 10 wines that were selected this year as a perfect oyster wine, see: The 10 Winners of the 2013 Pacific Coast Oyster Wine Competition, USA

Second Day of Riesling Rendezvous Featured Sweeter Wines

On Tuesday, July 16, the day began with another fascinating blind tasting of 20 Rieslings, this time off-dry and sweet Rieslings from around the world, moderated by London-based wine journalist Tim Atkin, a Master of Wine.

Pictures: International Tasting Beyond Dry Riesling

Picture: Helmut and Mrs. Doennhoff, Weingut Doennhoff, at the International Riesling Tasting Beyond Dry

The International Riesling Foundation then made a presentation called “Riesling Research and Revelations.”

Lunch featured Australian Rieslings, sponsored by Icons of Australia.

Picture:Christian G.E. Schiller, Steffen Christmann, Weingut A. Christmann, Helmut and Mrs Doennhoff, Weingut Doennhoff

After lunch, there were three breakout sessions:

“Grosses Gewaches – the New VDP Classification” with Steffen Christmann and Wilhelm Weil.
“The Electric Riesling Acid Test” with Emily Wines, M.S.
“Marketing Riesling: Preaching Beyond the Choir” with Leslie Sbrocco.

I participated in the breakout session of Steffen Christmann and Wilhelm Weil.

Pictures: Steffen Christmann, Weingut A. Christmann, Stuart Pigott and Wilhelm Weil, Weingut Robert Weil

Pictures: Stuart Pigott, Christian G.E. Schiller and Finger Lakes Winemaker Johannes Rheinhardt, see also: The Wines and the Food at President Obama’s Inauguration Luncheon, January 21, 2013, USA

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and UK-based Wine Journalist Tim Atkin, see also: The Tim Atkin Pinot Noir Taste-Off of October 2011: Germany Versus the Rest of the World - German Red Wines Show Strong Performance 

The event concluded with a farewell reception at Chihuly Garden and Glass at the Seattle Center. The Chihuly Garden and Glass is a breathtaking gallery space showcasing the spectacular art of Northwest glass master Dale Chihuly. It was a dramatic and entertaining way to bid farewell to new and old friends as we concluded our Riesling celebration.

Picture: Chihuly Garden and Glass at the Seattle Center

Pictures: Oliver Haag, Weingut Fritz Haag, Helmut Doennhoff, Weingut Doennhoff, Clemens Busch, Weingut Clemens Busch, Steffen Christmann, Weingut A. Christmann, Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, and Wilhelm Weil, Weingut Robert Weil

Pictures: The German Crowd with Helmut and Mrs. Doennhoff, Oliver Haag and Clemens Busch

Pictures: Winemaker Bob Bertheau of Chateau Ste. Michelle and Ernst Loosen, with Dr. Ulrich Fischer

Pictures: Christian Schiller, Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, and Chateau Ste. Michelle CEO Ted Baseler at the Farewell Reception of the 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle, Washington State, USA

Picture: Helmut Doennhoff Leaving The Chihuly Garden and Glass

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Fred Loimer, Weingut Loimer

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Markus Huber, Weingut Huber

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Charles Smith, Smith Wines

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Emmerich Knoll, Weingut Knoll

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Clemens Busch, Weingut Clemens Busch

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Oliver Haag, Weingut Fritz Haag

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Steffen Christmann, Weingut A. Christmann

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Tim Atkin

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Sean O'Keefe, Vice President, Chateau Grand Traverse, Michigan

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Helmut Doennhoff, Weingut Doennhoff

schiller-wine: Related Postings

Stepping up: From 3 … to 4 Quality Levels - The New Classification of the VDP, Germany

When Americans Drink German Wine - What They Choose

German Wine Basics: Sugar in the Grape - Alcohol and Sweetness in the Wine

1st International Riesling Symposium, Rheingau, Germany

Ombiasy Wine Tours: Wine and Culture Tour to Germany Coming up in August 2013

Coming Up in July:
4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle, Washington State, USA

Germany’s 2011 VDP Grosses Gewaechs – Grand Cru - Wines Released. Notes from the Pre-release Tasting in Wiesbaden, Germany, 2012

German Spaetlese Wines Can Come in Different Versions. I Have Counted Five.

Approaches to Classifying German Wine: The Standard Approach (the Law of 1971), the VDP Approach and the Zero Classification Approach

Wine Blogger Christian G.E. Schiller from schiller-wine Featured Guest of #SommChat on Twitter

Visiting Wilhelm Weil at his Weingut Robert Weil in Kiedrich, Germany

Tasting with Wilhelm Weil the 2010 Weingut Weil Wines in Kiedrich, Germany

Wine ratings: Two American/German wines - Eroica and Poet's Leap - on Top 100 Wines from Washington State list for 2009

German American Wines: (1) Pacific Rim Riesling (2) Eroica and (3) Woelffer's Schillerwein

Riesling, Pinot Noir and Indian Cuisine: A tête-à-tête Dinner with Winemaker Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at Rasika in Washington DC, USA

With Wine Maker Clemens Busch in Puenderich at his Winery in the Mosel Valley, Germany

The German Winemakers at the Forthcoming 4. Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle, Washington State, USA 

German Winemakers in the World: Hermann J. Wiemer, Finger Lakes, USA

Ernie and his Friends - The Loosen Bros. USA Portfolio Tour 2012

The Tim Atkin Pinot Noir Taste-Off of October 2011: Germany Versus the Rest of the World - German Red Wines Show Strong Performance 

Late Night German Riesling Tasting with Riesling Gurus Paul Grieco and Stuart Pigott in Washington DC on the 2013 Riesling Road Trip, USA

Top 10 Riesling Producers in the World– Snooth 2012

Wine Producer Austria - Not Only Gruener Veltliner

Celebrating the Release of the Finger Lakes 2011 Riesling in Washington DC, USA

The Wines and the Food at President Obama’s Inauguration Luncheon, January 21, 2013, USA

The 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle: Impressions from the Grand Tasting at Chateau Ste. Michelle in Woodinville, Washington State, USA


Steffen Christmann (Weingut A. Christmann) and Wilhelm Weil (Weingut Robert Weil) Presented the New Wine Classification of the VDP, Germany

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Picture: VDP President and Winemaker Steffen Christmann, Weingut A. Christmann, Wine Journalist Stuart Pigott, and VDP Vice-President and Winemaker Wilhelm Weil, Weingut Weil, Presenting the new VDP Classification at the 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle

Although many people think that there is only one wine classification system in Germany – the classification system of the Law of 1971 – this is not correct. True, the classification system of the Law of 1971 with its pyramid of ripeness of the grapes at harvest (Qualitaetswein, Kabinett, Spaetlese, Auslese …) at the center is the standard classification system in Germany and the vast majority of winemakers in Germany use this approach. A large number of winemakers, however, have moved away from the standard, in particular the producers of premium and ultra-premium wines. Importantly, the powerful group of German elite winemakers – the VDP (Verband Deutscher Praedikatswein Produzenten) – has conceived its own classification system and is developing it further. The latest modifications are those that came into effect with the vintage of 2012.

Steffen Christmann and Wilhelm Weil provided an overview of the system as it currently stands at the 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle, Washington State.

Pictures: Lecture cum Tasting

This posting is part of a series of a dozen or so postings on the 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle. I have posted sofar:

Steffen Christmann (Weingut A. Christmann) and Wilhelm Weil (Weingut Robert Weil) Presented the New Wine Classification of the VDP, Germany
Photo Album: 4th Riesling Rendezvous (2013) in Seattle, Washington State, USA
The 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle: Impressions from the Grand Tasting at Chateau Ste. Michelle in Woodinville, Washington State, USA
The World of Riesling in Seattle - Fourth Riesling Rendezvous in Washington State, USA
Coming Up in July: 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle, Washington State, USA 
The German Winemakers at the Forthcoming 4. Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle, Washington State, USA  

The VDP Wine Classification Matrix

Wilhelm Weil: “The new VDP Wine Classification System is basically a matrix classification.” On one achse you find the different quality levels of the wines, along the Burgundian terroir approach, with estate wines, village wines, first growth (premier cru) wines and great growth (grand cru) wines.

Following their colleagues in the Bourgogne, the terroir principle has taken center stage in the VDP classification. Effective with the 2012 harvest, the VDP classification has the following 4 quality layers (In brackets, the equivalent quality classes in the classification system of the Bourgogne):

• VDP.Grosse Lage (Grand Cru in Burgundy)
• VDP.Erste Lage (Premier Cru in Burgundy)
• VDP.Ortswein (Village level in Burgundy)
• VDP.Gutswein (Bourgogne régional in Burgundy)

Note that for some legal reasons, the VDP has started to use the terms Grosse Lage, Erste Lage, Ortswein and Gutswein with the pre-fix VDP.

Picture: Steffen Christmann making the Point that 100 Years ago, German Wine was more expensive than Bordeaux

On the other achse, you find the sweetness levels: Trocken, Kabinett, Spaetlese, Auslese, Beerenauslese and Trockenbeerenauslese as well as Eiswein. Please note that in the new VDP classification system the Prädikats have lost their critical importance that they have in the traditional classification system of 1971 and that they have changed their meaning. In the VDP classification system, they have become an indicator for the sweetness range of the finished wine, while in the traditional classification they are an indicator of the sugar content of the grapes at harvest. Generally, in the new VDP classification system, the Prädikats are to be used exclusively for wines with residual sweetness, “thereby enabling the Prädikats to resume their traditional meaning”, as stated by the VDP.

Pictures: Steffen Christmann, Stuart Pigott, Christian G.E. Schiller and Tim Atkin at the Presentation of Steffen Christmann and Wilhelm Weil

VDP.Grosse Lage - The Peak of the Pyramid

VDP.Grosse Lage is the peak of the terroir-based pyramid, equivalent to Grand Cru in the Bourgogne. These are the very best vineyards of Germany. Note: For a Grosse Lage vineyard, like in the Bourgogne, you don’t use the village name on the label, just the name of the vineyard.

Maximum yield is at 50hl/ha. The grapes have to be harvested by hand while the sugar content of the grapes at harvest has to be at least at Spätlese level. The grapes can be fermented in a dry, fruity-sweet and noble-sweet style.

A dry wine from a VDP.Grosse Lage is designated VDP.Grosses Gewaechs and labeled Qualitätswein Trocken. A Grosses Gewaechs wine is from 2012 on the ultra premium dry wine made from a Grosse Lage vineyard.

Example: 2012 Weingut Weil, Graefenberg, Riesling, VDP.Grosses Gewaechs

A fruity or noble sweet wine from a VDP.Grosse Lage is labeled with one of the traditional Prädikats: Kabinett, Spätlese, Auslese, Beerenauslese, Eiswein or Trockenbeerenauslese.

Example: 2012 Weingut Weil, Graefenberg, Riesling, Spaetlese

Picture: The Wines Steffen Christmann Presented

VDP.Erste Lage - First Class

VDP.Erste Lage designates first-class vineyards with distinctive characteristics, equivalent to Premier Cru in the Bourgogne. Erste Lage vineyards provide optimal growing conditions, as evidenced over a long period of time.

They are planted with traditional varieties. Maximum yield is at 60hl/ha. The grapes have to be harvested by hand while the sugar content of the grapes at harvest has to be at least at Spätlese level.
A dry wine from a VDP.Erste Lage is labeled Qualitätswein trocken. Note that there is no “VDP.Erstes Gewaechs” designation.

Example: 2012 Weingut Weil, Kiedricher Turmberg, Riesling Trocken

A fruity or noble sweet wine from a VDP.Erste Lage is labeled with one of the traditional Prädikats: Kabinett, Spätlese, Auslese, Beerenauslese, Eiswein or Trockenbeerenauslese.

Example: 2012 Weingut Weil, Kiedricher Turmberg, Riesling, Spaetlese

Third: VDP.Ortswein - Sourced from Superior Soils

A VDP.Ortswein originates from a village's best vineyards that are planted with grape varieties typical of their region, equivalent to a village wine in the Bourgogne. Maximum yield is at 75hl/ha.
A dry VDP.Ortswein is labeled Qualitätswein Trocken.

Example: 2012 Weingut Weil, Kiedrich, Riesling Trocken

A VDP.Ortswein with residual sweetness is labeled with one of the traditional Prädikats.

Example: 2012 Weingut Weil, Kiedrich, Riesling, Spaetlese

Fourth: VDP.Gutswein – Entry Level

VDP.Gutsweine are the entry-level wines in the VDP's hierarchy.

Generall, the Prädikats are to be used exclusively for wines with residual sweetness. Gutsweine, however, are excluded from this general rule as it applies only to the top 3 quality categories. Thus, we might see Gutswein Kabinett trocken and Gutswein Spaetlese trocken in the shelves.

Example: 2012 Weingut Weil, Riesling Trocken

Pictures: The wines, Wilhelm Weil presented. Interestingly, his selection included two wines that were very similar in terms of the winemaking process until harvest (same vineyard, both Grosse Lage wines), but one was fully fermented to Trocken and the other one was fermented to Spaetlese.

Key Elements of the VDP Classification System to Remember

First: Use of the Prädikats Kabinett, Spaetlese and Auslese only for fruity-sweet wines - As a major innovation, the VDP members have dropped the traditional Prädikats for dry wine. Only wines that have a noticeable level of sweetness carry the traditional Prädikats like Kabinett, Spaetlese or Auslese. Thus, if you see Spaetlese on the label of a VDP member wine, you can be sure that it is a fruity-weet Spaetlese. “Spaetlese Trocken” does not exist anymore among the VDP members.

Second: The Prädikats Kabinett, Spaetlese and Auslese no longer indicator of ripeness at harvest, but indicator for sweetness of the finished wines - In the 1971 Classification, the Prädikats Kabinett, Spaetlese and Auslese are an indicator of ripeness at harvest. Thus, for instance, you can have a fruity-sweet Spaetlese and a dry Spaetlese. In the VDP classification, the Prädikats Kabinett, Spaetlese and Auslese are an indicator of sweetness of the finished wine (and not of the ripeness at harvest).

Third: All dry wines up to the highest quality level labeled Qualitaetswein Trocken - All dry wines up to the highest quality level – the Grosses Gewaechs wines from a Grosse Lage vineyard – are labeled Qualitaetswein (QbA) Trocken. A wine made from grapes harvested at Spaetlese level and fully fermented to complete dryness, for example, is marketed as QbA wine. And the level of quality would be indicated by the terroir concept (Gutswein, Ortswein, Erste Lage, Grosse Lage).

This of course does not make it easier for wine consumers to read and understand German wine labels, because the Qualitaetswein denomination has a completely different meaning in the standard classification system. There, it indicates that this wine is an entry-level wine of basic quality. In the VDP classification, Qualitaetswein does not mean anything, as in the VDP system even the ultra-premium dry wines are labeled as a QbA.

Pictures: Wilhelm Weil Explaining

Fourth: Grosses Gewaechs ultra-premium dry wine - The dry counterpart of the fruity-sweet Spaetlese and Auslese wines of the VDP are the dry Grosses Gewaechs wines. These are ‘Grand Cru” wines made from grapes from a Grosse Lage vineyard, harvested at Spaetlese or Auslese level in terms of sugar content and fully fermented so that they become dry. The Grosse Gewaechs label is thought to resemble the Grand Cru designation in neighboring France. Here and there, these wines are dry.

Steffen Christmann observed that the Grosses Gewaechs label has become obsolete. Grosse Lage Trocken says it all. You do not need the predicate Grosses Gewaechs. But the Grosses Gewaechs label is well established in the market and recognized by wine consumers.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Wilhelm Weil, Weingut Robert Weil, in Kiedrich. Weingut Weil belongs to the group of winemakers that make both dry and fruity-sweet wines, in addition to noble-sweet wines. See: Visiting Wilhelm Weil at his Weingut Robert Weil in Kiedrich, Germany. And: Tasting with Wilhelm Weil the 2010 Weingut Weil Wines in Kiedrich, Germany.

Fifth: No single vineyard wines below Grosse Lage and Erste Lage - In the VDP classification, only Grosse Lage and Erste Lage vineyards appear on the label. If a wine comes from a vineyard that is not in the exclusive circle of Grosse and Erste Lage, the label will not carry any vineyard name. Instead, it will be either a village wine (with just the village and the name of the winery on the label) or an Estate wine (with just the name of the winery on the label).

The VDP

The VDP is the world’s oldest association of wine estates in the world. In fact, it is the only one of its kind worldwide. No other country has a national organization of the top wine makers of the entire country.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Steffen Christmann, Weingut A. Christmann, in Seattle. Weingut A. Christmann belongs to the group of winemakers that make exclusively dry wines, except for noble-sweet wines. See: The German Winemakers at the Forthcoming 4. Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle, Washington State, USA

In 1910, four regional wine-growers’ associations joined forces to form the Verband Deutscher Naturweinversteigerer (i.e. estates that sold their “natural” [unchaptalized] wines at auction). These organizations – from the Rheingau and Rheinhessen, founded in 1897 and 1900, respectively, and their counterparts in the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer and Pfalz regions, both founded in 1908 – were the forerunners of today’s VDP. At this time, fine German wines enjoyed a heyday. They were among the most expensive wines, on the tables of imperial houses as well as leading hotels and restaurants.

Throughout the past century, the quality-driven goals and strict standards of the VDP have played no small part in shaping the viticultural and winemaking practices in Germany. With their stringent statutes and their establishment of a German vineyard classification, the 200 members of the VDP have served as role models and justifiably can be viewed as the vanguard of the nation’s producers of top-quality wines.

For more on the new VDP Classification, see:
Approaches to Classifying German Wine: The Standard Approach (the Law of 1971), the VDP Approach and the Zero Classification Approach
Stepping up: From 3 … to 4 Quality Levels - The New Classification of the VDP, Germany
German Wine Basics: Grosse Lage and Grosslage (and Grosses Gewaechs)
VDP.Grosses Gewaechs, Erstes Gewaechs, Spaetlese/Auslese Trocken, … Labeling Dry Ultra-Premium Wines in Germany
The VDP - the Powerful Group of German Elite Winemakers - Refines its Classification System, Germany

schiller-wine - Related Postings

The 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle: Impressions from the Grand Tasting at Chateau Ste. Michelle in Woodinville, Washington State, USA

The World of Riesling in Seattle - Fourth Riesling Rendezvous in Washington State, USA

Coming Up in July: 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle, Washington State, USA 

The German Winemakers at the Forthcoming 4. Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle, Washington State, USA

Stepping up: From 3 … to 4 Quality Levels - The New Classification of the VDP, Germany

German Spaetlese Wines Can Come in Different Versions. I Have Counted Five.

Phil Bernstein’s Third Annual German Riesling Tasting with the German Wine Society, Washington DC Chapter - Rieslings With a Touch of Sweetness

When Americans Drink German Wine - What They Choose

German Wine Basics: Sugar in the Grape - Alcohol and Sweetness in the Wine

The German Winemakers at the Forthcoming 4. Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle, Washington State, USA

Visiting Wilhelm Weil at his Weingut Robert Weil in Kiedrich, Germany

Tasting with Wilhelm Weil the 2010 Weingut Weil Wines in Kiedrich, Germany

Wine Consumption: Do Germans Drink Sweet or Dry Wine?

German Wine Basics: Grosse Lage and Grosslage (and Grosses Gewaechs)

VDP.Grosses Gewaechs, Erstes Gewaechs, Spaetlese/Auslese Trocken, … Labeling Dry Ultra-Premium Wines in Germany

German Wine Basics: Sugar in the Grape - Alcohol and Sweetness in the Wine

German Spaetlese Wines Can Come in Different Versions. I Have Counted Five.

When Americans Drink German Wine - What They Choose

Approaches to Classifying German Wine: The Standard Approach (the Law of 1971), the VDP Approach and the Zero Classification Approach

Video: How to Pronounce German Wine - Simon Woods' Enhanced Version

Germany's VDP Wine Estates Celebrate 100th Anniversary in Berlin

The VDP - the Powerful Group of German Elite Winemakers - Refines its Classification System, Germany

1st International Riesling Symposium, Rheingau, Germany

Ombiasy Wine Tours: Wine and Culture Tour to Germany Coming up in August 2013

Riesling, Pinot Noir and Indian Cuisine: A tête-à-tête Dinner with Winemaker Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at Rasika in Washington DC, USA

Photo Album: 4th Riesling Rendezvous (2013) in Seattle, Washington State, USA 

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Washington DC, USA

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Picture: Washington DC, USA

This is a list of my favorite wine bars in the Washington DC greater area.

Washington DC is the center of the Washington DC greater area. Most people live either on the Maryland side of the Potomac River or on the Virginia side. I live in McLean in Virginia. My selection of wine bars is naturally biased by my home base. But at the end I have added 3 wine bars in Frederick, where my daughter Dorothea lives, about an hour away from Washington DC.

America has a bar culture. Many restaurants therefore have a nice bar area with often an amazing selection of wines by the glass. Thus, I have divided my list into 2 groups: (1) wine bars and (2) restaurants with good wine bars, for Washington DC and Northern Virginia.

Wine Bars in Washington DC

Cork

1720 14th Street NW

This feels very much like a “my down the road wine bar’. Unfortunately I do not live in the neighborhood and need to travel to go there. But I do it, because I feel so comfortable there. Cork has a thoughtful wine list focused on old-world classics from France and Italy. In addition, the food is very good, prepared by an ambitious Chef.

Dickson

903 U Street NW (bet. 9th and 10th Sts. NW)

A three-level wine bar. Follow the stairs up into a modern, cozy space with communal tables, bar seats and flickering candles. Dickson focuses on wines made with an ecological mindset, such as natural, organic and biodynamic wines. Classic wine bar fare such as olives, charcuterie and cheese.

Eno (to be opened soon)

Four Seasons Hotel, Georgetown

Chicago-based wine bar Eno is making its very first move to the East Coast and is set to arrive in Georgetown in late summer 2013.   Expect cheeses from Virginia and Pennsylvania, as well as Virginia wines.

Proof

775 G St NW

For a more substantial fare along with a premium wine, check out Proof, known for its numerous small plates but also for its eclectic selection of creative modern cuisine. Its wine list is outstanding, containing  over 40 by-the-glass selections and 1,000 different bottlings, reaching up into the highest price and quality levels.

Pictures: Annette Schiller, Ombiasy Wine Tours, Christian Schiller and Proof Sommelier Joe Quinn
See:
Rock ‘n’ Roll and Wine: Rolling Stones Live and Wine at Proof in Washington DC, USA

Room 11

3234 11th Street NW

This Columbia Heights wine bar remains as iconic to the neighborhood as ever. The menu features a small selection of plates meant to be shared — rock shrimp risotto, slow-roasted pork belly and more — but Room 11 really shines in its wine list.

Slate

2404 Wisconsin Ave NW

This Glover Park wine bar and bistro showcases small-production wineries from around the world, paired with a menu of moderately priced small plates and mains; the urban-rustic space has exposed brick and ductwork.

Sonoma

223 Pennsylvania Ave. SE

In the Capitol Hill district, and popular among House and Senat staffers, Sonoma offers a cozy, Italian-influenced atmosphere and plenty of vino to warm you up. The menu and communal tables are made for sharing, and the wine list leans heavily toward Italian and California varietals, which is a perfect pairing for all that cured meat you are about to eat.

Picture: Sonoma's Beverage Director Fred Uku

See:
2012 DC Wine Week Launch with Boxwood Wines at Sonoma Restaurant and Wine Bar, USA

Veritas

2031 Florida Ave. NW

Calling itself “DC’s first and only true wine bar,” Veritas opened in 2007 near Dupont Circle. This intimate bar offers more than 70 wines on tap. Each is available by the glass. Its lengthy wine menu includes flutes, flights, blends and bottles of red, white, and sparkling varietals from throughout the world. All the drinks can be paired with a wide selection of cheeses, charcuterie and chocolates, as well as dips and panini. It's always loud and bustling, but the prime location and broad assortment make up for any noise problems.

Vinoteca

1940 11th Street NW

A sunny room and sunnier outdoor patio are the perfect setting for Vinoteca's pleasant, affordable wines. Stop by for happy hour, when around 20 glasses go for $5 each. Vinoteca features 100 wines, many of them available in half-glass tasting pours, along with a full menu of New American fare with locally sourced and organic ingredients.

Washington DC Restaurants with a Good Wine Bar

The city also has a number of fine restaurants with outstanding wine lists, and the booming popularity of wine in the United States has prompted these eateries to move their collections out of their cellars and place them front and center in the dining room. In many of DC’s top eateries, wine chillers are a central part of the decor.

Bistrot Lepic

1736 Wisconsin Avenue, NW

Bistro Lepic is the most French Wine Bistro in Washington DC. It consists of a restaurant downstairs and a lounge plus wine bar area upstairs. Regulars know that the real action happens on the second floor. Low, cushioned chairs and parlor tables create the ambience of a wine-centric clubhouse. The 20-deep bar list is available by half or full glasses (more are available by the bottle), but engaging bartenders often pour samples to encourage new drinking experiences.

I usually go there on Tuesdays, when they have a little wine tasting between 6pm and 8 pm.

Picture: Thomas Schlumberger at Bistro Lepic

See:
Thomas Schlumberger, Domaines Schlumberger in Alsace, presented his Wines at Bistro Lepic in Washington DC, USA, France

Blue Duck Tavern

1201 24th Street NW

The Blue Duck Tavern has an encyclopedic wine list, with more than 30 by the glass, mainly American and including top Virginia wines.

Pictures: Chef Sebastien Archambault of the Park Hyatt Hotel and its signature restaurant Blue Duck Tavern and Christian G.E. Schiller

See:
Fête du Bordeaux of Calvert and Woodley in Washington DC, 2012, USA

Charlie Palmer Steak House

101 Constitution Avenue NW

For a night out of big food and substantial wines, there is Charlie Palmer Steak House, which only offers 10 wines by the glass. The restaurant’s 3,500-bottle selection is exclusively American, and Charlie Palmer will waive the corkage fee for anyone who brings in a special bottle to drink with their meal, as long as it’s American.

Johnny’s Half Shell

400 N. Capitol St. NW

Le Diplomate

1601 14th St NW

Le Diplomate pays homage to French café culture serving breakfast, lunch, brunch, mid-day and dinner. The extensive menu features a variety of classic favorites including Onion Soup Gratinée, Steak Frites and Escargots as well as daily plats such as Lavender Roast Duck and Rabbit en Gibelotte.  Large wine list with half French wines and half “International Interpretations”.

Marcel’s

2401 Pennsylvania Ave. NW

Elegant, classic French food with a nice bar and lounge area.

Old Ebitt Grill

675 15th St. NW

You won't find this place listed among the city's best culinary establishments, but it's an institution. The Old Ebbitt also has Washington's most popular raw bar, which serves farm-raised oysters. It reminds me a bit of La Coupole in Paris. Several bars. Decent wine list.

Taberna del Alabardera

1776 I Street  NW (18th St.)

“Madrid in Washington DC” with a nice bar. One of the favorites of the international staff of the World Bank and IMF, which are close by.

Picture: Chef Javier Romero and Christian G.E. Schiller

See:
Dinner with Spanish Winemaker Antonio Jose Bleda Jimenez, Bodegas Bleda, at Taberna del Alabardero in Washington DC, USA
In the Kitchen: Chef Javier Romero at Taberna del Alabardero in Washington DC, USA
Alejandro Luna Beberide from Bodegas y Vinedos Luna Beberide in Spain at the Taberna del Alabardero in Washington DC
Bodegas Marqués de Murrieta Winemaker Dinner at Taberna del Alabardero in Washington DC, USA/Spain
DC Food Bloggers Happy Hour at Taberna del Alabardero in Washington DC, US
Welcoming Winemaker Ruben Saenz Lopez and his Bodegas San Prudencio Wines from Rioja in Spain to Washington DC

The Source by Wolfgang Puck

575 Pennsylvania Ave NW

Very large and pleasant bar area.

Picture: Source by Wolfgang Puck

See:
Crab Cakes: Jeff Black from Black Salt and Chris Clime from PassionFish win the 8th Annual Crab Cake Competition in Washington DC, USA

CityZen

1330 Maryland Avenue, SW

CityZen is one of the best restaurants in town. It also has a very nice bar area and a highly regarded sommelier: Andrew Myers. His sommelier career began at The Inn at Little Washington in 1997. He later returned to Washington to manage the wait staff and the wine department of Restaurant Nora. Five years later, he joined the team at CityZen. At 40 plus now, Andrew Myers remains obsessed with metal. He plays the drums in a Heavy Metal Group and is covered in tattoos that would make most head bangers proud. But that obsession is rivaled by his passion for wine.

Pictures: Sommelier Andrew Myers and Henri Lurton

See:
Tête-à-tête Dinner with Henri Lurton, Owner of Château Brane-Cantenac, a Deuxieme Grand Cru Classe en 1855 in Margaux, at CityZen in Washington DC, USA

Range

5335 Wisconsin Avenue Northwest

Range is a new, much talked about restaurant by Bryan Voltaggio, with a large bar area. The wine program is overseen by former Citronelle Wine Director and Sommelier Kathy Morgan. She is a Master Sommelier. There are only a bit more than 100 sommeliers in the world who have achieved the title of Master Sommelier.

Picture: Sommelier Kathy Morgan and Christian Schiller

See:
Caroline Parent-Gros Presented the Wines of Domaine A-F Gros in the Bourgogne at Chef Bryan Voltaggio’s Range in Washington DC

Wine Bars in Northern Virginia

Boxwood Tasting Room 

1618 Library St. at Democracy Dr., Reston, VA

A great wine bar owned and run by Boxwood, one of the leading wine producers in Virginia. It serves Boxwood, but also other wines, all by the glass.

Picture: Rachel Martin, Managing Director of Boxwood Winery

See:
2012 DC Wine Week Launch with Boxwood Wines at Sonoma Restaurant and Wine Bar, USA
Bordeaux Meets Virginia: Tasting Through Recent Vintages at Boxwood Winery in Virginia: With Anne Cuvelier from Chateau Leoville - Poyferre, Annette Schiller from Wine Tours by Ombiasy and Boxwood Winery General Manager Rachel Martin, USA

Cheesetique Cheese and Wine Bar

2411 Mt Vernon Ave, Del Ray

Best cheeses in town.

Grand Cru Wine Bar and Euro Cafe 

Ballston 4401 Wilson Boulevard

Nice to sit outside in the summer with the dog.

North Side Social

Ballston 3211 Wilson Blvd

A coffee shop with a first floor that turns into a wine bar with an amazing selection of wines in the evening.

Christian G.E. Schiller and Christopher Barefoot, the Estate Director at Flowers Vineyard & Winery

See:
Tasting the Sonoma Wines of Flowers Vineyard & Winery with Estate Director Christopher Barefoot at Northside Social in Washington DC, USA

Screw Top Wine Bar

Clarendon - 1025 N Filmore St.

Charming neighborhood wine bar with interesting wines.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Sherman Thatcher at Srew Top Wine Bar.

See:
As Close as You Can Get to Champagne – Claude Thibaut and his Virginia Thibaut Janisson Sparklers at screwtop Wine Bar, USA
Richard Branson Presenting Wines from Cass Vineyards and Winery at Screwtop Wine Bar in Virginia? 
Meeting a Rhone Ranger and Tasting His Wines - Sherman Thacher from Paso Robles in California

Twisted Vines Wine Bar and Bottle Shop

2803 Columbia Pike, Arlington, VA

Charming neighborhood wine bar with interesting wines.

Picture: Twisted Vines

See:
Meeting Winemaker Yolanda Viadero from Valduero Vineyards in Ribera del Duero and in Toro, Spain, and Tasting Her Excellent Wines

The Wine House

3950 University Dr, Fairfax, VA

Charming neighborhood bistro and wine bar.

Picture: Central Otago, New Zealand, Winemaker and Owner Dan Dineenat the Wine House

See:
New Zealand Pinot Flight– Maude of Central Otago, New Zealand with Winemaker and Owner Dan Dineen
The Roots of Oregon Winemaker Chris Berg, the Art of Paul Klee, the Wine House of Michael Pearce and the Nice Legs of Al McCosh
 The Wine House Presented Winemaker Shane Finley from Russian River Valley in California at a Shane Wine Cellars Winemaker Dinner

Vinifera Wine Bar and Bistro

Reston/Herndon, International 11750 Sunrise Valley Dr

Northern Virginia Restaurants with a Good Wine Bar

Bistro Vivant

1394 Chain Bridge Rd. McLean VA, 22101

Typical French brasserie with a wine bar, serving exclusively French wine. The wine list is very appealing and the food very French and good.

Picture: Bistro Vivant

See:
Dinner with Owner/Winemaker Eric Bonnet of Domaine La Bastide Saint Dominique, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, France/USA

Evo Bistro

1313 Old Chain Bridge Rd., McLean

Trendy wine bar. Enjoy excellent wines over shared tapas in a chic and friendly setting. The bar area can become very crowded and lively.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Dennis Cakebread at Evo Bistro

See:
Dennis Cakebread and his Wines, Napa Valley, at EVO Bistro, Virginia

The Curious Grape

2900 South Quincy Street

This Shirlington oenophile outpost has a neighborhood vibe and recently moved a few blocks so it could be expanded to include a restaurant and café.

Picture: At the Curious Grape

See:
The American Art of Joanne Roberts Wittauer and the Austrian Wines of Klaus Wittauer – A Taste of Art and Wines at the Curious Grape in Shirlington in the Washington DC Area, USA
Welcome to America: Franz and Christine Netzl Estate, Carnuntum, Austria

Restaurant Eve

110 S. Pitt St., Alexandria

One of the best, if not the best restaurant in Northern Virginia, with a very nice bar and lounge area.

Tallula

2761 Washington Blvd., Arlington

Trummer’s on Main

7134 Main Street, Clifton

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Stefan Trummer and Chef Austin Fausett at the Austrian Embassy in Washington DC

Other Sources

List of 10 DC Wine Bars

America's 100 Best Wine Restaurants: The Northeast - Wine Enthusiast 2012

2013 List of 100 VERY BEST RESTAURANTS Washingtonian

2013 List of Best Restaurants Washington Post

The 38 Essential Washington Restaurants, January 2013

Schiller’s Favorites

This posting is part of the Schiller’s favorites series. Here is a full list of all Schiller’s favorites postings so far.

Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Washington DC, USA

Schiller’s Favorite Restaurants, Brasseries, Bistros, Cafes and Wine Bars in Paris, France

Schiller’s Favorite Crab Houses in the Washington DC Region, USA

Schiller’s Favorites at the 2013 Riesling and Co Tasting in New York City, USA

Schiller’s Favorites from the VDP Grosses Gewaechs – Grand Cru – Presentation at Kloster Eberbach, 2012, Germany

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Frankfurt am Main, Germany

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in New York City, USA

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Charleston, South Carolina, USA

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in London, UK

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars and Other Wine Spots in Vienna, Austria 

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in San Francisco, USA

Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux (City), France

Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Budapest, Hungary

Schiller’s 12 Favorite Restaurants of Antananarivo, the Capital of Madagascar

Schiller's Favorite Apple Wine Taverns in Frankfurt am Main, Germany

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Taverns in Mainz, Germany

Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars and Other Places Where You Can Have a Glass of Wine in Healdsburg, California
 

schiller-wine: Related Posting

2012 DC Wine Week Launch with Boxwood Wines at Sonoma Restaurant and Wine Bar, USA

Thomas Schlumberger, Domaines Schlumberger in Alsace, presented his Wines at Bistro Lepic in Washington DC, USA, France

Fête du Bordeaux of Calvert and Woodley in Washington DC, 2012, USA

Dinner with Spanish Winemaker Antonio Jose Bleda Jimenez, Bodegas Bleda, at Taberna del Alabardero in Washington DC, USA

In the Kitchen: Chef Javier Romero at Taberna del Alabardero in Washington DC, USA

Alejandro Luna Beberide from Bodegas y Vinedos Luna Beberide in Spain at the Taberna del Alabardero in Washington DC

Bodegas Marqués de Murrieta Winemaker Dinner at Taberna del Alabardero in Washington DC, USA/Spain

DC Food Bloggers Happy Hour at Taberna del Alabardero in Washington DC, US

Welcoming Winemaker Ruben Saenz Lopez and his Bodegas San Prudencio Wines from Rioja in Spain to Washington DC

Tasting the Sonoma Wines of Flowers Vineyard & Winery with Estate Director Christopher Barefoot at Northside Social in Washington DC, USA

As Close as You Can Get to Champagne – Claude Thibaut and his Virginia Thibaut Janisson Sparklers at screwtop Wine Bar, USA

Richard Branson Presenting Wines from Cass Vineyards and Winery at Screwtop Wine Bar in Virginia? 

Meeting a Rhone Ranger and Tasting His Wines - Sherman Thacher from Paso Robles in California

Meeting Winemaker Yolanda Viadero from Valduero Vineyards in Ribera del Duero and in Toro, Spain, and Tasting Her Excellent Wines

New Zealand Pinot Flight– Maude of Central Otago, New Zealand with Winemaker and Owner Dan Dineen

The Roots of Oregon Winemaker Chris Berg, the Art of Paul Klee, the Wine House of Michael Pearce and the Nice Legs of Al McCosh

The Wine House Presented Winemaker Shane Finley from Russian River Valley in California at a Shane Wine Cellars Winemaker Dinner

Dinner with Owner/Winemaker Eric Bonnet of Domaine La Bastide Saint Dominique, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, France/USA

Dennis Cakebread and his Wines, Napa Valley, at EVO Bistro, Virginia

The American Art of Joanne Roberts Wittauer and the Austrian Wines of Klaus Wittauer – A Taste of Art and Wines at the Curious Grape in Shirlington in the Washington DC Area, USA

Welcome to America: Franz and Christine Netzl Estate, Carnuntum, Austria

Rock ‘n’ Roll and Wine: Rolling Stones Live and Wine at Proof in Washington DC, USA 

Crab Cakes: Jeff Black from Black Salt and Chris Clime from PassionFish win the 8th Annual Crab Cake Competition in Washington DC, USA

Bordeaux Meets Virginia: Tasting Through Recent Vintages at Boxwood Winery in Virginia: With Anne Cuvelier from Chateau Leoville - Poyferre, Annette Schiller from Wine Tours by Ombiasy and Boxwood Winery General Manager Rachel Martin, USA

Tête-à-tête Dinner with Henri Lurton, Owner of Château Brane-Cantenac, a Deuxieme Grand Cru Classe en 1855 in Margaux, at CityZen in Washington DC, USA

Caroline Parent-Gros Presented the Wines of Domaine A-F Gros in the Bourgogne at Chef Bryan Voltaggio’s Range in Washington DC

The Mainz Wine Amazones - Christine Huff, Mirjam Schneider and Eva Vollmer - in New York City, USA

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Picture: Eva Vollmer, Tina Huff and Mirjam Schneider in New York City for the Long Night of German Wine

In April of this year, the “Lange Nacht des Deutschen Weins” (Long Night of German Wine) took place for the 16th time in Berlin, Germany. The stars of the evening were Tina Huff, Mirjam Schneider and Eva Vollmer - 3 up-and-coming female winemakers from Mainz, Rheinhessen, who are also best friends.

Since 2011, there is also an American version of the Long Night of German Wine. This year, it took place on July 25 at Hearth Restaurant in the East Village of New York City. Again, Tina Huff, Mirjam Schneider and Eva Vollmer were the stars of the event. They came for less than a week to the US, mainly for that event. Unfortunately, my attempts to bring them over to our Summer of Riesling Party in the Nation’s Capital, Washington DC, a few days before the Long Night of German Wine in New York City did not succeed. I got wind of it too late and they had already booked their flights, when I contacted them. They arrived in the US the day following our party. What a pity! "We woild have loved to come to your Summer of Riesling Party" said Mirjam Schneider.

But I was able to meet up with them up in New York City for a glass of wine at Terroir at Murray Hill and to accompany them on the 31-days-of-German-Riesling New York Harbor Cruise. Unfortunately, I could not make it to the Long Night of German Wine, but Stuart Pigott reported extensively on his blog about the event.

Tina Huff, Mirjam Schneider, Eva Vollmer

Tina Huff, Mirjam Schneider and Eva Vollmer are three young and gifted female winemakers from Rheinhessen in Germany. The three of them are at the beginning of a promising winemaker career, and they are best friends. They help each other and they spend a lot of time together.

Pictures: The Wine Amazones on 2. Avenue

I have met them individually several times and I met them together at last year’s wine festival at Weingut Eva Vollmer in Mainz, were they did an interesting Silvaner tasting. In addition, my daughter Katharina Schiller helps Mirjam Schneider during the harvest and wine festivals, and she has helped Christine Huff. Finally, Eva Vollmer is the Vice-President of the Mainzer Weinguilde, a wine brotherhood, of which I am a member.

Rheinhessen

Rheinhessen is an area that used to be known for winemakers often focusing on quantity and not quality. Rheinhessen is the largest viticultural region in Germany. Every fourth bottle of German wine comes from Rheinhessen. The high-yielder Mueller-Thurgau accounts for about 1/5 of the vineyards. Unlike in other German wine regions, where monoculture of the vine is the norm, here the many rolling hills are host to a wide variety of crops grown alongside the grape.

Pictures: The Wine Amazones with Christian G.E. Schiller and Annette Schiller

Rheinhessen also has the rather dubious honor of being considered the birthplace of Liebfraumilch. At the same time, Rheinhessen is among Germany’s most interesting wine regions. A lot is happening there. This is not because of the terroir, but because of the people. There is an increasing group of mostly young and ambitious winemakers who want to produce and indeed do produce outstanding wine and not wines in large quantities. Tina Huff, Mirjam Schneider and Eva Vollmer are 3 of them.

Eva Vollmer and Weingut Eva Vollmer

Eva Vollmer is the 2010 Gault Millau Germany Wine Guide Discovery of the Year. She owns and operates - jointly with her husband Robert Wagner - a new Wine Estate in Rheinhessen in the outskirts of Mainz.


Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller and Eva Vollmer at the Terroir Wine Bar (Murray Hill) in New York City and in Mainz

After studies in Geisenheim and an internship in California at William Hill and Atlas Peak, she founded the winery in 2007. She took over the vineyards of her father, who used to grow grapes only and sell them. Since then, she has not only produced outstanding wines, but also completed a Masters at the University of Giessen and recently a Doctorate at the University of Geisenheim.

The very first vintage in 2007 was Eva Vollmer’s big bang on the national wine stage. Only just under 5,000 bottles were filled from the first vintage. Weingut Eva Vollmer is in the process of moving to organic wine growing.

Eva Vollmer's Wines at the Long Night of German Wine, Weingut Eva Vollmer:
Riesling Trocken, 2012
Riesling Feinherb, 2012
Riesling Trocken, Niersteiner Pettenthal, 2011
Weissburgunder Trocken, 2012

I have published the following posting about Weingut Eva Vollmer:
Winemaker Eva Vollmer is Germany’s Discovery of the Year 2010
International Women's Day 2012: Meeting the Wine Amazones Tina Huff, Mirjam Schneider and Eva Vollmer of Mainz, Germany
The 31-Days-of-German-Riesling Concert Cruise Around New York Harbor with the German Wine Queen Julia Bertram and the 3 Wine Amazones Tina Huff, Eva Vollmer and Mirjam Schneider from Mainz, Germany

Mirjam Schneider and Weingut Schneider

The Schneider Estate in Hechtsheim at the outskirts of Mainz looks back to a long winemaking tradition. Already since 1715 the Schneider family has grown and made wine. Mirjam Schneider, a young lady in her 20s is the 6th generation. She has split up the work with her father, Lothar Schneider, who looks after agriculture, while she is responsible for the viticulture and the wine making in the cellar. In the farm shop of the Schneiders, you will find both fresh fruits and vegetables and wines from Mirjam's cellar.

Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller and Mirjam Schneider at the Terroir Wine Bar (Murray Hill) in New York City and in Mainz

Mirjam Schneider says that she always wanted to become a winemaker. She did her formal education, went to New Zealand to get an international perspective and took over the winery in 2005. As many other winemakers, she is trying to push nature to the fore and chemistry to the back: “The focus of my work is dealing with nature - because wine is for me a valuable natural product. I therefore attach great importance not only to keeping the wine in the process as natural as possible, but to bring this understanding to the vineyard as well.”

Mirjam Schneider's Wines at the Long Night of German Wine, Weingut Schneider:

Riesling Trocken, Niersteiner Pettenthal, 2011
Riesling Feinherb, Gau-Bischofscheimer , 2012
Silvaner Trocken, Laubenheimer Edelmann, 2011
Grauer Burgunder Trocken, 2012

I have published the following postings about Mirjam Schneider:
International Women's Day 2012: Meeting the Wine Amazones Tina Huff, Mirjam Schneider and Eva Vollmer of Mainz, Germany 
Weinfest im Kirchenstueck: Meeting the Winemakers of Mainz-Hechtsheim and Tasting Their Wines, Germany 
In the Glass: Mirjam Schneider's 2007 Merlot No.2 from Rheinhessen, Germany
The 31-Days-of-German-Riesling Concert Cruise Around New York Harbor with the German Wine Queen Julia Bertram and the 3 Wine Amazones Tina Huff, Eva Vollmer and Mirjam Schneider from Mainz, Germany

Tina Huff and Weingut Fritz Ekkehard Huff

Tina Huff’s name does not yet appear on the labels of the wines she makes, as her father still is very much involved with many aspects of winemaking at Weingut Fritz Ekkehard Huff. Tina is however increasingly moving to the fore. Tina Huff: “Today my parents Ekkehard and Doris still manage the operation, but following my studies in Geisenheim I am in the process of taking over as the fourth generation in the winery. My sisters Daniela and Johanna have chosen other careers, but their views are still very important for me”. Tina just got married with a young man from New Zealand, also a winemaker, who also works at Weingut Fritz Ekkehard Huff.

Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller and Christine Huff at the Terroir Wine Bar (Murray Hill) in New York City and in Mainz

Wine making at the Huff family goes back by 300 years. But for many years, wine making was part of a larger mixed farming operation and the wine grapes were sold in bulk to other wine makers. Tina Huff’s forefather John Huff III. was the one who in 1948 took the bold step of starting to bottle his wines. Through marriage, he had added 2 hectares of vineyard land to his own 2.5 hectares, making bottling a sustainable operation. Over the following years, the share of winemaking increased while the role of agriculture and livestock decreased at the Huff Estate.

“Our goal is top quality wines’ says Tina. “For this, you need healthy and aromatic grapes. Healthy soils with high humus content and a functioning micro-organism are important. We do not use synthetic fertilizers; we encourage beneficial insects and work with natural and managed vegetation of the vineyard.“

“Of our 6 hectares of vineyards, 1.5 ha is “Rotliegend”. This is about 280 million years old clay and sandstone alteration. The special feature of these soils is the reddish coloration, which is caused by oxidized iron, like in the Niersteiner Roter Hang”.

Tina Huff's Wines at the Long Night of German Wine, Weingut Ekkehard Huff:

Riesling Trocken, vom Rotliegenden, 2012
Riesling Trocken, Pettenthal, 2011
Riesling Trocken, Rabenturm, 2011
Scheurebe Trocken, 2012

I have published the following posting about Christine Huff:
International Women's Day 2012: Meeting the Wine Amazones Tina Huff, Mirjam Schneider and Eva Vollmer of Mainz, Germany
The 31-Days-of-German-Riesling Concert Cruise Around New York Harbor with the German Wine Queen Julia Bertram and the 3 Wine Amazones Tina Huff, Eva Vollmer and Mirjam Schneider from Mainz, Germany

At Terroir (Murray Hill)

We met for a glass of wine in the late afternoon of their first full day in New York City. They did not have a program for their stay in New York City. The only thing they were sure of was that they had to be on Thursday evening at restaurant Hearth for the Long Night of German Wine. But they were still struggling with some basic issues, such as getting cash out of an American teller with a European credit card.

Pictures: Annette and Christian G.E. Schiller and the 3 Wine Amazones at Terroir (Murray Hill)

At the 31 Days of German Riesling New York Harbor Cruise

Tina Huff, Eva Vollmer and Mirjam Schneider also participated in the 31-Days-of-German-Riesling New York Harbor Cruise with the German Wine Queen Julia Bertram, who flew over from Germany to New York City for this event: A 3-hour voyage around New York harbor and a bottomless bottle of Riesling, i.e. an endless supply of German Riesling. The boat trip was organized by Riesling Guru Paul Grieco. Temporary New York resident Stuart Pigott was also on the boat, in addition to 300 Riesling fanatics …. and hundreds of bottles of German Riesling, dry and fruity-sweet.

Pictures: Getting Riesling tattoos for the Cruise - Paul Gregutt, Annette Schiller, Wine Queen Julia Bertram, Tina Huff, Mirjam Schneider, Eva Vollmer and Christian Schiller

Pictures: Waiting for Departure, with Stuart Pigott

Pictures: Cruising in the New York Harbor

Pictures: Dancing

Pictures: Returning

At Terroir (East Village)

After the cruise, we went to the (original) Terroir wine (East Village) for an after-party, where we met Berlin-based food and wine writer Ursula Heinzelmann.

Pictures: Annette Schiller, German Wine Queen Julia Bertram, Ursula Heinzelmann, Eva Vollmer, Christine Huff, Mirjam Schneider and Christian G.E. Schiller at Terroir (East Village)

At Hearth Restaurant - The Long Night of German Wine

The Long Night of German Wine took place on Thursday, July 25th. It started at 11:00pm. Paul Grieco: “We are raising money this night for a charity very close to Stuart's heart: the HOPE Charity in South Africa, which dedicates money to the prevention and treatment of HIV/AIDS.”

Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller with (from left to right) Eva Vollmer, Tina Huff and Mirjam Schneider at Weingut Eva Vollmer in Mainz

As I was unable to attend the Long Night of German Wine, so let me quote Stuart Pigott: “Either way it was quite a night, although one of the conclusions I drew was a disappointing one. The three young winegrowers from Rheinhessen – Christine Huff from the Fritz Ekkehard Huff estate, Mirjam Schneider of the Schneider estate and Eva Vollmer of the eponymous estate – were the stars of the show, just as I’d hoped they’d be. But again and again our guests fired the same question at them: where can I buy these wines? The problem is that they jumped to the normal New York Wine City (NYWC) conclusion that if the wine is this good it must already be imported to NYWC. This way of thinking is understandable when you see the gigantic range of French and Italian wines available here, but those wine growing nations have had powerful lobbies in the city for a long, long time. In comparison, German wines have only recently begun to attract that kind of attention (again) and many importers of German wines are still selecting what they import as if the recent quality revolution in places like Rheinhessen had not really happened. That’s sad also because American consumers are missing out. Calling all young / dynamic wine importers: this is one big chance for you and whoever sticks their neck out first will get to cherry pick the new generation of German winemakers. I think the expression is go for it!

Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller, Annette Schiller, wine tours by ombiasy, Paul Grieco and Stuart Pigott

As you can see from this picture, also taken in the early hours of this morning, here was quite a buzz at the Long Night of German Wine. It was the three winemakers standard quality wines as much as their top bottlings which amazed. In this category, the 2012 Riesling *** from Mirjam Schneider was enormously ripe for its modest price, with an aroma of yellow plums and considerable power. Christine Huff’s 2012 Riesling “vom Rotliegenden” was a total contrast with its sleek, lithe body and aromas of rose hips and herbs. Just to prove that Rheinhessen isn’t only about dry Riesling Eva Vollmer’s standard quality 2012 Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc) had a bouquet of freshly-picked green beans, was powerful and round, yet fresh and cool. The single-vineyard bottlings from the trio – the Rabenturm dry Riesling from Huff, the Edelmann dry Riesling and Silvaner from Schneider, and the ‘Kult’ wines from Vollmer – are all of a quality which ought to earn them plenty of listings in NYWC’s best restaurants.”

schiller-wine: Related Postings

When Americans Drink German Wine - What They Choose

Winemaker Eva Vollmer is Germany’s Discovery of the Year 2010

Weinfest im Kirchenstueck: Meeting the Winemakers of Mainz-Hechtsheim and Tasting Their Wines, Germany 

In the Glass: Mirjam Schneider's 2007 Merlot No.2 from Rheinhessen, Germany

International Women's Day 2012: Meeting the Wine Amazones Tina Huff, Mirjam Schneider and Eva Vollmer of Mainz, Germany

Ombiasy Wine Tours: Wine and Culture Tour to Germany Coming up in August 2013

Impressions from the Riesling & Co World Tour 2010 in New York

Late Night German Riesling Tasting with Riesling Gurus Paul Grieco and Stuart Pigott in Washington DC on the 2013 Riesling Road Trip, USA

German Wine Basics: Sugar in the Grape - Alcohol and Sweetness in the Wine

Stepping up: From 3 … to 4 Quality Levels - The New Classification of the VDP, Germany

Approaches to Classifying German Wine: The Standard Approach (the Law of 1971), the VDP Approach and the Zero Classification Approach

Kick-off of the “Summer of Riesling 2013” with Chef Driss Zahidi, a (German) Dr. Loosen, an (Austrian) Tegernseehof and an (Alsatian) Trimbach Riesling at Le Mediterranean Bistro in Virginia, USA

Summer of Riesling with Annette and Christian Schiller in Washington DC, USA 

Summer of Riesling 2013 and 31 Days of German Riesling 2013 in the United States

The 31-Days-of-German-Riesling Concert Cruise Around New York Harbor with the German Wine Queen Julia Bertram and the 3 Wine Amazones Tina Huff, Eva Vollmer and Mirjam Schneider from Mainz, Germany












The German Winemakers at the 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle, USA

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Picture: Oliver Haag, Weingut Fritz Haag, Helmut Doennhoff, Weingut Doennhoff, Clemens Busch, Weingut Clemens Busch, Steffen Christmann, Weingut A. Christmann, Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, and Wilhelm Weil, Weingut Robert Weil at the Farewell Reception of the 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle

The world of Riesling returned to Seattle in Washington State.The attraction was the 4th Riesling Rendezvous, a gathering of Riesling producers and enthusiasts from around the world. Riesling Rendezvous is sponsored by Chateau Ste. Michelle, the Washington State giant wine producer and Weingut Dr. Loosen, one of Germany’s top Riesling producers from the Mosel Valley. The famous Eroica Riesling from Washington State is a joint venture of Ste. Michelle and Dr. Loosen. Riesling Rendezvous is the largest international gathering of Riesling producers and enthusiasts in the world. It features three days of tasting, discussing and learning about Riesling.

Germany was represented by 9 elite winemakers. This posting profiles the German winemakers who flew over to Seattle to participate in the 4th Riesling Rendezvous. Two of the German winemakers that were announced as participants had to cancel their participation: H.O. Spanier of Weingut Battenfeld-Spanier and Kuehling-Gillot, and Johannes Leitz of Weingut Leitz.

This posting is part of a series of a dozen or so postings on the 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle. I have posted sofar:

The German Winemakers at the 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle, USA
Steffen Christmann (Weingut A. Christmann) and Wilhelm Weil (Weingut Robert Weil) Presented the New Wine Classification of the VDP, Germany
Photo Album: 4th Riesling Rendezvous (2013) in Seattle, Washington State, USA
The 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle: Impressions from the Grand Tasting at Chateau Ste. Michelle in Woodinville, Washington State, USA
The World of Riesling in Seattle - Fourth Riesling Rendezvous in Washington State, USA

Coming Up in July: 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle, Washington State, USA 
The German Winemakers at the Forthcoming 4. Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle, Washington State, USA

The German Winemakers

Ernst Looseninvited Loosen Bros. CEO Kirk Wille and his team as well as the 3 German winemakers he represents in the US (Weil, Maximin Gruenhaus, Fritz Haag) plus his friend Helmut Doennhoff and his wife for dinner the evening before the event started.

Picture: Pre-Riesling Rendezvous Dinner at the Boatshouse in Seattle - Ernst Loosen, his Crew and the German Winemakers in his Import Portfolio plus Helmut and Mrs. Doennhoff, see also: Ernie and his Friends - The Loosen Bros. USA Portfolio Tour 2012

All German winemakers poured their wines at the opening event, the Grand Tasting on the grounds of Chateau Ste. Michelle in Woodinville, late Sunday afternoon.

Picture: The German Tent at the Grand Tasting in Woodinville

The 4. Riesling Rendezvous concluded with a farewell reception at Chihuly Garden and Glass at the Seattle Center. The Chihuly Garden and Glass is a breathtaking gallery space showcasing the spectacular art of Northwest glass master Dale Chihuly. It was a dramatic and entertaining way to bid farewell to new and old friends as we concluded our Riesling celebration.

Pictures: Oliver Haag, Weingut Fritz Haag, Helmut Doennhoff, Weingut Doennhoff, Clemens Busch, Weingut Clemens Busch, Steffen Christmann, Weingut A. Christmann, Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, and Wilhelm Weil, Weingut Robert Weil

Pictures: The German Crowd with Helmut and Mrs. Doennhoff, Oliver Haag and Clemens Busch

All German winemakers presented one wine in the two International Riesling Tastings (dry and beyond dry). The wine is mentioned at the end of the chapter. I will report on schiller-wine about the two International Riesling Tastings. There you will find notes on the wines.

A. Christmann

Weingut A. Christmann is located in Gimmeldingen in the Pfalz. It is owned and run in the 7th generation by Steffen Christmann, who is the current President of the VDP, the association of German elite winemakers.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Steffen Christmann, Weingut A. Christmann in Seattle

In 1845 Prof. Dr. Ludwig Häusser and his cousin Johann Martin founded a small winery as a hobby. During the next generations, the winery operations turned into a business. In 1894, Eduard Christmann married Henriette Häusser, the granddaughter of the founder. The estate bears the name of their son Arnold.

Pictures: Steffen and Mrs. Christmann Pouring at the Grand Tasting in Woodinville

Devotion to soil vitality and the preservation and individuality of the terroir has lead Steffen Christmann to practice organic agriculture, strict vineyard management, and severe yield reduction. In the cellar, Steffen Christmann employs long and gentle pressing with low pressure, clarification through natural sedimentation, and a slow, not too cool fermentation sometimes until as late as June with only one filtration.

Weingut A. Christmann Rieslings and Pinot Noirs are among Germany’s finest. 18.5 hectares, 70% Riesling.

Picture: Steffen Christmann and Oliver Haag at the Grand Tasting

Picture: Steffen Christmann and Fred Loimer, Weingut Loimer

Picture: Steffen Christmann, Weingut A. Christmann, at the International Tasting

Picture: Helmut Doennhoff, Weingut Doennhoff, Oliver Haag, Weingut Fritz Haag and Steffen Christmann, Weingut A. Christmann at the International Tasting

Steffen Christmann, jointly with Wilhelm Weil, conducted a workshop on the new VDP classification, where participants could also taste 4 wines of Weingut A. Christmann and Weingut Robert Weil.

Picture: VDP President and Winemaker Steffen Christmann, Weingut A. Christmann, Wine Journalist Stuart Pigott, and VDP Vice-President and Winemaker Wilhelm Weil, Weingut Weil, Presenting the new VDP Classification at the 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle

Although many people think that there is only one wine classification system in Germany – the classification system of the Law of 1971 – this is not correct. True, the classification system of the Law of 1971 with its pyramid of ripeness of the grapes at harvest (Qualitaetswein, Kabinett, Spaetlese, Auslese …) at the center is the standard classification system in Germany and the vast majority of winemakers in Germany use this approach. A large number of winemakers, however, have moved away from the standard, in particular the producers of premium and ultra-premium wines. Importantly, the powerful group of German elite winemakers – the VDP (Verband Deutscher Praedikatswein Produzenten) – has conceived its own classification system and is developing it further. The latest modifications are those that came into effect with the vintage of 2012.

Steffen Christmann and Wilhelm Weil provided an overview of the system as it currently stands.

Picture: Steffen Christmann and Stuart Pigott at the Presentation of Steffen Christmann and Wilhelm Weil

Picture: The Wines Steffen Christmann Presented

2011 Idig Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewaechs (dry)

Clemens Busch

Weingut Clemens Busch is one of the top producers in Germany. And not only that. In a region where the humidity and extremely steep vineyards make most wine makers to rely on some level of pesticide, Clemens Busch is 100% organic/biodynamic.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Clemens Busch at Kloster Eberbach in Germany, see also: With Wine Maker Clemens Busch in Puenderich at his Winery in the Mosel Valley, Germany

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Clemens Busch, Weingut Clemens Busch, at the 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle

In a region where noticeable residual sugar in the finished wine and low alcohol is the calling card, Clemens Busch’s focus is on dry premium Rieslings that can compete with the best dry whites in the world. But Clemens Busch also produces off-dry wines as well as powerfully complex, nobly sweet wines.

Picture: Clemens Busch, Weingut Clemens Busch

Picture: Clemens Busch from Weingut Clemens Busch in Germany, Christian G.E. Schiller and Hermann Wiemer, founder of Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyards in the Finger Lakes Region in New York State. For Weingut Clemens Busch, see: With Wine Maker Clemens Busch in Puenderich at his Winery in the Mosel Valley, Germany. For Hermann J. Wiemer, see: German Winemakers in the World: Hermann J. Wiemer, Finger Lakes, USA

Weingut Clemens Busch is in Pünderich in the Mosel Valley, rather far down stream. The Busch family lives near the banks of the Mosel in a restored half- timbered house built in 1663. Because flooding can occur here, the vaulted cellar, built in the 1970s, lies nearby, on higher ground, at Clemens’s parents’ home.

The business has been run by Rita and Clemens Busch since 1986, with son Florian joining the team in 2008. Clemens is the fifth generation winemaker at this estate.

10 hectares, 95% Riesling

2010 Marienburger 1.Lage Grosses Gewaechs Fahrlay Riesling Trocken (dry)

See also:
With Wine Maker Clemens Busch in Puenderich at his Winery in the Mosel Valley, Germany

Dönnhoff

Weingut Hermann Dönnhoff is in Oberhausen in the Nahe Valley. The Dönnhoff family has been making wine in this region since 1750.

A leading producer of Riesling wines in the world, including noble-sweet Rieslings. 80% of Dönnhoff's 20 hectares of vineyard holdings grow Riesling grapes, with the remaining twenty percent Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Hellmut Doennhoff in Mainz, see also: Top 10 Riesling Producers in the World– Snooth 2012

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Helmut Doennhoff, Weingut Doennhoff at the 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle

Picture: German Winemaker Helmut Doennhoff and Mrs. Doennhoff, Weingut Doennhoff,

Picture: Helmut Doennhoff, Weingut Doennhoff

Picture: Helmut Doennhoff and Carl von Schubert

Picture: Helmut Doennhoff at the Grand Tasting in Woodinville

Pictures: Helmut and Mrs. Doennhoff, Weingut Doennhoff, at the International Tasting - Beyond Dry Riesling

Picture: Lunch - Christian G.E. Schiller, Steffen Christmann, Weingut A. Christmann, Helmut and Mrs Doennhoff, Weingut Doennhoff

Picture: Helmut Doennhoff Leaving The Chihuly Garden and Glass

Since 1971, Helmut Dönnhoff has been in charge. Helmut Doennhoff is a Grand Seigneur of German wine. He has been described by Hugh Johnson as having a "fanatical commitment to quality, and a remarkable natural talent for winemaking" and as a "superstar" of the region by Robert Parker. Helmut Doennhoff was named German Winemaker of the Year in 1999 by the Gault Millau Guide. He now works in tandem with his son Cornelius Doennhoff. 25 hectares.

2003 Niederhaeuser Herrmannshoehle Riesling Spaetlese (beyond dry)

See also:
Top 10 Riesling Producers in the World– Snooth 2012

Dr. Loosen

Ernst Loosen is a winemaker based in Germany, who now makes 4 different wines in Germany and the USA: First, Mosel Valley Rieslings, mostly fruity-sweet that made him so famous in the world; second, Pinot Noirs and other wines from the Pfalz, all dry, where he owns Weingut J.L. Wolf; third, the J. Christopher Wines, a collaboration of Ernst Loosen and Jay Somers, mainly Pinot Noir, from Oregon and fourth, the Eroica wines, a collaboration between Dr. Loosen and Chateau Ste. Michelle, the giant wine producer, in Washington State.

Picture: Christian Schiller and Ernst Loosen in Washington DC

Picture: Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen

Picture: Ernst Loosen and Hermann J. Wiemer

Pictures: Chateau Ste. Michelle CEO Ted Baseler, Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen and Falstaff Germany Co-publisher Ursula Haslamar

Weingut Dr. Loosen is located just outside Bernkastel in the Mosel wine region. The vineyard area totals 22 hectares. Production amounts to 15.000 cases. Ernst Loosen won the "Riesling of the Year" of the German wine magazine Der Feinschmecker in 1989. In 2001, the Gault Millau Weinguide named Ernst Loosen as the German Winemaker of the Year.

Ernst Loosen was co-host. He opened and closed the 4th Riesling Rendezvous with Chateau Ste. Michelle CEO Ted Baseler.

Pictures: Opening Remarks from Ste. Michelle CEO Ted Baseler, Ernst Loosen, and Global Riesling Authority Stuart Pigott

Pictures: Winemaker Bob Bertheau of Chateau Ste. Michelle and Ernst Loosen, with Dr. Ulrich Fischer at the Farewell Reception

Pictures: Christian Schiller, Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, and Chateau Ste. Michelle CEO Ted Baseler at the Farewell Reception

Jointly with Chateau Ste. Michelle Winemaker Bob Bertheau, Ernst Loosen led a Winemakers Roundtable: To Blend or not to Blend (which I was not able to attend).

2011 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewaechs (dry)
2012 Eroica Gold Riesling (jointly with Chateau Ste. Michelle) (beyond dry)

See also:
Riesling from Germany and Pinot Noir from Oregon: A Winemaker Dinner with Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen and J.Christopher Wines, at Black Salt in Washington DC.
Riesling, Pinot Noir and Indian Cuisine: A tête-à-tête Dinner with Winemaker Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at Rasika in Washington DC, USA
Ernst Loosen and Dr. L. Riesling - His Hugely Popular Entry-level Wine Sold Throughout the World;
The Doctor Made a House Call - A Tasting with Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at MacArthur Beverages in Washington DC, USA
A Riesling Guru and a Killer Guitarist cum Cult Winemaker: Ernst Loosen and Jay Somers and their J. Christopher Winery in Newberg, Oregon
Wine ratings: Two American/German wines - Eroica and Poet's Leap - on Top 100 Wines from Washington State list for 2009
German American Wines: (1) Pacific Rim Riesling (2) Eroica and (3) Woelffer's Schillerwein

Weingut Fritz Haag

Weingut Fritz Haag is located in Brauneberg in the Mosel Valley. It was founded in 1605. It is now run and owned by Oliver Haag and his wife Jessica Haag.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and German Winemaker Oliver Haag, Weingut Fritz Haag, in Seattle

Oliver’s father, Wilhelm Haag, was in charge bewtween 1957 to 2005. Wilhelm was named German Winemaker of the Year in 1994 (Gault Millau). Oliver graduated with a degree in oenology at Geisenheim College. Oliver's brother, Thomas Haag, has owned and run Weingut Schloss Lieser since 1993.

Picture: Oliver Haag, Weingut Fritz Haag, at the Grand Tasting

Picture: Oliver Haag, Weingut Fritz Haag, at the International Tasting - Beyond Dry Riesling

Weingut Fritz Haag owns a total of 16.5 hectares of Riesling vines around Brauneberg, with 6.5 hectares within Brauneberger Juffer and 3 hectares in the Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr vineyard. Stephen Brook says that the estate's "forte lies in the superb range of sweeter styles, all produced without Süssreserve.

The average annual production is around 5,500 cases of wine, with wines produced at all Prädikat levels, as well as top level dry wines designated as Grosses Gewächs.

2003 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese (beyond dry)

Geheimer Rat Dr. von Bassermann-Jordan

The Geheimer Rat von Bassermann Jordan Estate was established in the 1700s by Andreas Jordan, who had immigrated to the Pfalz from the Savoy region. When he died in 1848, his bequest was split three ways – an event known as the Jordansche Teilung (Teilung means “division” or “sharing” in German) – giving rise to Deidesheim’s three biggest wineries, which thenceforth developed independently of each other and still exist today. Today, they bear the names Geheimer Rat Dr. von Bassermann-Jordan, Reichsrat von Buhl and von Winningen (Dr. Deinhard). They are now all owned and managed (management at Reichsrat von Buhl is in the process of being transferred ) by the entrepreneur the family the late Achim Niederberger (who died just a few days ago). Gunther Hauck is the Managing Director and Ulrich Mell the winemaker.

Picture: Gunther Haug (right) and Felix Korb (left), Geheimer Rat Dr. von Bassermann-Jordan, at the Grand Tasting

Picture: Gunther Hauck, Geheimer Rat Dr. von Bassermann-Jordan, at the International Tasting - Beyond Dry Riesling

49 hectares. 40,000 bottles.

2011 Deidesheimer Leinhoehle Riesling Spaetlese (beyond dry)

Maximin Grünhaus (Carl von Schubert)

The historic Maximin Grünhaus estate lies at the foot of a long, steep south-facing slope on the left bank of the Ruwer river, about two kilometers upstream from where it joins the Mosel, and is divided into three separate but contiguous vineyards: Abtsberg, Herrenberg, and Bruderberg. The estate belongs to the family of Carl von Schubert.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Carl von Schubert in Washington DC

The estate was first documented in 966. The Schubert family purchased it in 1882. Since 1982, Dr. Carl von Schubert has managed the estate's vineyards. The Schlosskellerei von Schubert estate is more commonly referred to as Maximin Grünhaus.

The Abtsberg: Wines from this vineyard were originally destined for the table of the Abbot (or “Abt”) of the Abbey of St. Maximin. The site covers 35 acres, parts of which have been planted with vines for over a thousand years. The subsoil is blue Devonian slate and the hillside runs south-east to south-west, achieving a gradient of up to 70 percent.

Pictures: Carl von Schubert in Seattle, Washington State, at the 4th Riesling Rendezvous, with UK Journalist Tim Atkin, Pacific Rim Head Winemaker Nicolas Quille and Riesling Giant Helmut Doennhoff

The Herrenberg: Wines from this site were made specially for the Abbey’s choirmasters. Extending over 40 acres, the site benefits from deep soils with good water retention, over a base of red Devonian slate.

The Bruderberg: The smallest of the three Grünhaus vineyards, covering just 2.5 acres, the Bruderberg provided wine for the monks (or ‘brothers’). The site has the same Devonian slate soil as the Abtsberg next door.

2011 Gruenhaeuser Abtsberg Riesling Superior (beyond dry)

See also:
Carl von Schubert from the Maximin Gruenhaus Estate Returned a Favor: With his Wines in Washington DC (and in Seattle), USA

Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt

Since 1983, Annegret Reh-Gartner’s has directed the more than 600-year-old estate, which her father Günther Reh acquired in 1978. Achieving high quality has always been the focal point of her endeavors, just as her wines have always been subject to high standards. The conscious decision to reduce the size of the estate to 36 ha (ca. 90 acres) was an important step, for it enabled the estate to work more selectively in its vineyards and further improve quality. The entire team regards each of the estate’s 12 ha (30 acres) of steep sites in the Mosel, Saar, and Ruwer valleys as both a wonderful gift and a tremendous challenge. Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt is one of the region’s first estates to successfully offer Grosse Gewächse wines.

Picture: Annegret Reh-Gartner, Weingut Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt at the Grand Tasting

Picture: German Winemakers Helmut Doennhoff, Weingut Doennhoff and Annegret Reh-Gartner, Weingut Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt

Picture: Annegret Reh-Gartner, Weingut Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt and German Food and Wine Journalist Ursula Heinzelmann

Picture: Annegret Reh-Gartner at the Internation Tasting - Beyond Dry Riesling

Annegret Reh-Gartner has been married for more than 25 years to Gerhard Gartner, who defended two Michelin stars in his Aachen-based restaurant Gala for over 10 years. He was recognized as one of the finest chefs of Germany. After taking his final curtain call on the gourmet stage, he devoted himself to his second passion – wine.

With a history that spans more than 650 years (1349-1999), Weingut Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt is one of the most traditional estates in the Mosel region. The von Kesselstatt dynasty immigrated to the electorate of Trier in the 14th century.

Four monasteries of St. Maximin and their vineyard holdings were purchased between 1854 and 1889. These remain the basis of the estate to this day.

On the Mosel: Josephshof in Graach with 8 ha (20 acres) of vines in 1858 and Domklausenhof in Piesport with 8 ha (20 acres) of vines in 1858.

On the Saar: Abteihof in Oberemmel with 21 ha (52 acres) of vines in 1889.

On the Ruwer: St. Irminenhof in Kasel with 8.5 ha (21 acres) of vines in 1854.

From 1746 until 1999, estate headquarters were in Palais Kesselstatt in Trier, one of the most beautiful baroque palaces north of the Alps. It was built between 1740 and 1746 by Johann Valentin Thomann, a student of Balthasar Neumann.

Palais Kesselstatt, with its historical vaulted cellars and idyllic courtyard, were lovingly renovated by Günther Reh after he purchased the estate. Today, it is the site of the estate’s wine pub, “Weinstube Kesselstatt.”

In 1987, after extensive reconstruction and building, the estate moved its winemaking facilities to Schloss Marienlay in the Ruwer Valley, which has also served as the estate’s headquarters since 1999.

2011 Josefshoefer Riesling Kabinett (beyond dry)

Robert Weil

Weingut Robert Weil is without any doubt the Rheingau’s flagship winery and one of the top wineries in Germany. In the Feinschmecker Weinguide Deutschland ranking, Weingut Robert Weil is, along with Weingut Dr. Loosen, one of the 16 German wineries with the maximum number of 5 F’s.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Wilhelm Weil at Weingut Robert Weil in Kiedrich

Weingut Robert Weil is managed by Wilhelm Weil, who owns the winery jointly with Suntory from Japan. With 75 hectares under vine, it is one of the largest estates in the Rheingau. The historical manor house, the ultra-modern cellars and the vinothek stand side by side in a beautiful park – the same synthesis of old and new that is reflected in the estate’s philosophy of winemaking.

Pictures: Wilhelm Weil, Weingut Weil, and his Wines

Picture: German Winemaker Wilherlm Weil, Weingut Weil, Chatting

Weingut Robert Weil is located in the heart of Kiedrich, a village first documented in the year 950. Kiedrich Turmberg and Kiedrich Gräfenberg, the estate’s top vineyards, are among the finest sites in the Rheingau.

The estate cultivates 70 hectares (173 acres) of vineyards, of which 100 percent are planted with Riesling. Kiedrich Turmberg and Kiedrich Gräfenberg are situated on a southwest-facing ridge and a steep cliff with inclines of up to 60 percent. Their soils consist of deep and medium-deep stony, fragmented phyllite partially mixed with loess and loam. This combination of barren stony soils, an ideal microclimate, steep inclination and southwestern exposure allows the grapes to hang on the vine for a very long time. The resulting wines are complex and rich in minerals, with great elegance and finesse.

The vineyards are cultivated in an environmentally friendly manner: organic fertilizer is used as needed; green cover is planted in alternating rows to optimize the humus content of the soil; herbicides are never used, and other plant protection measures are used only sparingly and with respect for habitat. Grapes are harvested by hand, with an extremely critical selection that involves up to 17 rounds through the vineyards.

Wilhelm Weil, jointly with Steffen Christmann, conducted a workshop on the new VDP classification, where participants could also taste 4 wines of Weingut A. Christmann and Weingut Robert Weil.

Pictures: Steffen Christmann, Weingut A. Christmann, Stuart Pigott and Wilhelm Weil, Weingut Robert Weil

2009 Kiedricher Graefenberg Erstes Gewaechs (dry)

See also:

Tasting with Wilhelm Weil the 2010 Weingut Weil Wines in Kiedrich, Germany
Visiting Wilhelm Weil at his Weingut Robert Weil in Kiedrich, Germany

schiller-wine: Related Postings

When Americans Drink German Wine - What They Choose

German Wine Basics: Sugar in the Grape - Alcohol and Sweetness in the Wine

1st International Riesling Symposium, Rheingau, Germany

Coming Up in July: 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle, Washington State, USA

Germany’s 2011 VDP Grosses Gewaechs – Grand Cru - Wines Released. Notes from the Pre-release Tasting in Wiesbaden, Germany

German Spaetlese Wines Can Come in Different Versions. I Have Counted Five.

Approaches to Classifying German Wine: The Standard Approach (the Law of 1971), the VDP Approach and the Zero Classification Approach

Wine Blogger Christian G.E. Schiller from schiller-wine Featured Guest of #SommChat on Twitter

Visiting Wilhelm Weil at his Weingut Robert Weil in Kiedrich, Germany

Tasting with Wilhelm Weil the 2010 Weingut Weil Wines in Kiedrich, Germany

The Doctor Made a House Call - A Tasting with Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at MacArthur Beverages in Washington DC, USA

A Riesling Guru and a Killer Guitarist cum Cult Winemaker: Ernst Loosen and Jay Somers and their J. Christopher Winery in Newberg, Oregon

Wine ratings: Two American/German wines - Eroica and Poet's Leap - on Top 100 Wines from Washington State list for 2009

German American Wines: (1) Pacific Rim Riesling (2) Eroica and (3) Woelffer's Schillerwein

Riesling, Pinot Noir and Indian Cuisine: A tête-à-tête Dinner with Winemaker Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at Rasika in Washington DC, USA

With Wine Maker Clemens Busch in Puenderich at his Winery in the Mosel Valley, Germany

Stepping up: From 3 … to 4 Quality Levels - The New Classification of the VDP, Germany

Germany’s 2011 VDP Grosses Gewaechs – Grand Cru - Wines Released. Notes from the Pre-release Tasting in Wiesbaden, Germany, 2012

German Spaetlese Wines Can Come in Different Versions. I Have Counted Five.

Approaches to Classifying German Wine: The Standard Approach (the Law of 1971), the VDP Approach and the Zero Classification Approach

Ernie and his Friends - The Loosen Bros. USA Portfolio Tour 2012

Top 10 Riesling Producers in the World– Snooth 2012

Steffen Christmann (Weingut A. Christmann) and Wilhelm Weil (Weingut Robert Weil) Presented the New Wine Classification of the VDP, Germany 

Carl von Schubert from the Maximin Gruenhaus Estate Returned a Favor: With his Wines in Washington DC (and in Seattle), USA

America's 100 Best Wine Restaurants: The Northeast - Wine Enthusiast 2013

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Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Chef Spike Gjerde, Woodberry Kitchen in Baltimore

The Wine Enthusiast Magazine published an interesting list of restaurants: America's 100 Best Wine Restaurants, of which I am re-releasing the northeast section. At the end I added the Goodstone Inn and Restaurant, which is in Northern Virginia, just a few miles south of the northeast region. Last year, Ashby Inn, which is not too far away from the Goodstone In and Restaurant, was also on the list, but was dropped this year.

For last year's list, see:
America's 100 Best Wine Restaurants: The Northeast - Wine Enthusiast 2012

America's 100 Best Wine Restaurants: The Northeast


A Voce Columbus
New York City
NY

Art and Soul
Washington, D.C.


Blue Hill at Stone Barns
Pocantico Hills
NY

Brushstroke
New York City
NY

Charleston
Baltimore
MD

CityZen
Washington, D.C.

Picture: City Zen Sommelier Andrew Meyers, Proof Sommelier Joe Quinn and Christian G.E. Schiller

See:
Tête-à-tête Dinner with Henri Lurton, Owner of Château Brane-Cantenac, a Deuxieme Grand Cru Classe en 1855 in Margaux, at CityZen in Washington DC, USA


Crabtree's Kittle House
Chappaqua
NY

Craigie On Main
Boston
MA

DANIEL
New York City
NY

Dovetail
New York City
NY

Eleven Madison Park
New York City
NY

Estadio
Washington, D.C.


Fiola
Washington, D.C.


Fornelletto Cucina & Wine Bar
Atlantic City
NJ

Gotham Bar & Grill
New York City
NY

Gramercy Tavern
New York City
NY

Husk
Charleston
SC

Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller at Husk

See also:
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Charleston, South Carolina, USA


Jewel
Melville
NY

Le Bernardin
New York City
NY

Manzanilla
New York City
NY

Marea
New York City
NY

Menton
Boston
MA

minibar by José Andrés
Washington, D.C.


Momofuku Má Pêche
New York City
NY

Oceana
New York City
NY

Per Se
New York City
NY

Plume at The Jefferson, DC
Washington, D.C.


Ripple
Washington, D.C.


Rouge Tomate
New York City
NY

Picture: Rouge Tomate

See also:
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in New York City, USA


Talula’s Garden
Philadelphia
PA

The Delmonico Room at Hotel Fauchere
Milford
PA

The NoMad
New York City
NY

Tocqueville Restaurant
New York City
NY

Troquet
Boston
MA

Veritas
New York City
NY

Woodberry Kitchen
Baltimore
MD

Huffington Post: “Nestled in a long-closed mill in Baltimore's Hampden neighborhood Woodberry Kitchen is a bastion of local and organic cooking. Since opening in fall 2007, the place has won acclaim for dishes by chef and owner Spike Gjerde”. The Washington Post's Tom Sietsema enthusiastically endorsed it, writing "One part Fannie Farmer, one part Alice Waters, Woodberry Kitchen is all heart. Go, Baltimore!" In Washingtonian magazine's list of the 100 best restaurants in the region for 2012, Woodberry Kitchen is the only Baltimore spot profiled.

Pictures: Chef Spike Gjerde Preparing Crab Cakes

See also:
Chef Spike Gjerde's Farm-to-Table Food of Woodberry Kitchen and Sarah O’Herron's and Ed Boyce's Premium Organic Wines of Black Ankle Vineyards, Maryland, USA

Goodstone Inn & RestaurantMiddleburgVA

schiller-wine: Related Postings

Tête-à-tête Dinner with Henri Lurton, Owner of Château Brane-Cantenac, a Deuxieme Grand Cru Classe en 1855 in Margaux, at CityZen in Washington DC, USA

Dinner with Wine Maker Gerhard Wohlmuth sen., his Wines and the Food of Steierland’s Chef Ruth Stelzer, Austria

Schiller's World of Seafood

Château Léoville-Poyferré Winemaker Dinner with Anne Cuvelier at Eola in Washington DC, USA

Dining on the Cutting-edge - Daniel Singhofen’s Eola in Washington DC, USA 

Foie Gras Around the World

Dinner in McLean, Virginia - What We Ate and Drank

Rock ‘n’ Roll and Wine: Rolling Stones Live and Wine at Proof in Washington DC, USA

Sea, Sand, Soul and Sakafo, and Whales and Wine – At Princesse Bora Lodge on Ile Sainte Marie in the Indian Ocean

Dinner at Plum in Oakland, California - Sister Restaurant of Coi, #58 on the 2012 San Pellegrino World’s Best Restaurants List

Weinhaus Bluhm in Mainz: A Cosy and Basic Wine Tavern Serving World Class Wines from Germany

In the glass: Hugel et Fils wines at the cuisine des emotions de Jean Luc Brendel at Riquewihr in Alsace

A Plateau des Fruits de Mer and a Pessac-Leognan Wine in Bordeaux City, France

Oysters - and Wine - at Zuni Café in San Francisco, USA

The Wines of Domaine Lucien Albrecht and the Food of La Chaumiere in Washington DC, USA/France

Bodegas Marqués de Murrieta Winemaker Dinner at Taberna del Alabardero in Washington DC, USA/Spain

Celebrating Paso Robles Wines and Classic American Cuisine - Winemaker Dinner at Jose Andres’ America Eats Tavern in Washington DC with 4 Paso Robles Winemakers, USA

With Jean Trimbach from Domaine Trimbach, Alsace, at Bart M. Vandaele’s Belga Café in Washington DC

A German Riesling Dinner at Open Kitchen in Washington DC, USA

Domaine Weinbach Wines and Alsatian Food with Winemaker Catherine Faller, Alsace, and Chef Jacques E. Haeringer, Virginia

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in New York City, USA 

America's 100 Best Wine Restaurants: The Northeast - Wine Enthusiast 2012

Chef Spike Gjerde's Farm-to-Table Food of Woodberry Kitchen and Sarah O’Herron's and Ed Boyce's Premium Organic Wines of Black Ankle Vineyards, Maryland, USA 

Austria’s Best Wines and Winemakers – Falstaff WeinGuide 2013

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Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Emmerich Knoll, Weingut Knoll, in Seattle, at the 4th Riesling Rendezvous, see: The 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle: Impressions from the Grand Tasting at Chateau Ste. Michelle in Woodinville, Washington State, USA

The Falstaff WeinGuide Oesterreich/Suedtirol (Austria) 2013 was released earlier this year by Peter Moser. Falstaff uses a 1 to 5 stars scale for rating winemakers and a 1 to 100 points scale for rating wines. On 890 pages you find 3230 wines from 482 winemakers described and rated.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Peter Moser in Frankfurt am Main, Germany

For previous years, see:
Austria’s Best Wines and Winemakers - Falstaff WeinGuide 2012
Austria’s Best Wines and Winemakers - Falstaff WeinGuide 2011
Austria’s Best Wines and Winemakers - Falstaff WeinGuide 2010 

FalstaffRotweinGuide

In December, Falstaff releases its annual red wine guide. In the Fallstaff RotweinGuide 2013, more than 1000 wines of almost 400 winemakers are described on 306 pages. This key reference for Austrian wine was released for the 16th time by Peter Moser. The focus of the Falstaff RotweinGuide 2013 is on the 2010 vintage. The Falstaff RotweinGuide 2013 awarded prizes in 11 categories.

See:
Austria’s Best Red Wines - Falstaff RotweinGuide 2013
Austria’s Best Red Wines - Falstaff RotweinGuide 2010/2011
Wine ratings: Austria - Falstaff Top Red Wines 2009/2010

Wine Producer Austria

Austria has about 50.000 hectares of vineyard area, equivalent to about half of Germany’s vineyard area and one fifth of France’s vineyard area. In terms of world output, Austria’s vineyard area accounts for 0.7 % of the total. Almost all of it in the east of the country. “In the west we ski, in the east we make wine”, says Willi Klinger, head of Austrian Marketing Board. About 70 % of the production is white wine and 30% red wine. About 75 percent of Austria’s production is consumed in Austria and 25 percent is exported.

Austrian wine culture is ancient; people have been producing wine in Austria for 4000 years. But everything changed in 1985, when Austria was rocked by the “antifreeze wine scandal”. Some vintners were caught illicitly sweetening their products with glycol. As a result, the market for Austrian wine, especially the semi-sweet styles then in favor, evaporated overnight. Yet the scandal initiated a revolution that has propelled Austrian wines on to the world stage. It led to a broad rethinking, with an emphasis on higher-quality production and innovation that soon became noticed. Young winemakers, drawn by the new emphasis on quality over quantity, brought cutting-edge techniques and farsightedness to vineyards and cellars, revolutionizing both.

Austria’s Top Winemakers

When visiting Austria, you will find a huge number of top wine makers, and that not only in the top wine regions, but throughout Austria. Here is the current crème de la crème, according to the Fallstaff 2013 WeinGuide. The list is unchanged from last year.

5 Stars Winemakers

Here is a list of the winemakers that received 5 stars by Falstaff this year. It is unchanged from last year.

Weingut Bründlmayer Langenlois, Kamptal
Weingut Gesellmann Deutschkreutz, Mittelburgenland
Weingut Gernot und Heike Heinrich Gols, Neusiedlersee
Weingut Franz Hirtzberger Spitz/Donau, Wachau
Weingut Knoll Unterloiben, Wachau
Weingut Kollwentz Großhöflein, Neusiedlersee-Hügelland
Weinlaubenhof Kracher Illmitz, Neusiedlersee
Weingut F. X. Pichler Oberloiben, Wachau
Weingut Pöckl Mönchhof, Neusiedlersee
Weingut Prager Weißenkirchen, Wachau
Weingut Tement Berghausen, Südsteiermark

Winemaker of the Year 2013: Karl Alphart

Austrianwine.com: “The Alphart family has been making wine since 1762 and their love for the vines and the winemaker's craft is revealed in the character of every bottle. Healthy, hand-picked grapes are the basis of expressive and harmonious wines. The family’s vineyards are located at the heart of the Thermenregion, wrapped around the edge of the Vienna Woods. These sun-rich slopes, with their brown-earth and limestone soils, lend the wines both elegance and minerality. A gentle handling of the grape material in the cellar is the logical extension of the attention given to the vines throughout the year and allows the elegance and fine fruit notes of the grapes to find expression in the finished wines.”

Sortensieger

Only white varieties are covered here. For red varieties, see:

Chardonnay/Morillon

Gloria 2011, Kollwentz, Großhöflein, Neusiedlersee-Hügelland. 96 Falstaff Punkte.

Gelber Muskateller

Perz Erste STK Lage 2012, Alois Gross, Ratsch, Südsteiermark. 93 Falstaff Punkte.
Sernauberg Erste STK Lage 2012, Sattlerhof, Gamlitz, Südsteiermark. 93 Falstaff Punkte.

Picture: Sattlerhof

Gemischter Satz

Five Points – The Star of Vienna 2011, Richard Zahel, Wien. 95 Falstaff Punkte.

Grüner Veltliner

Dürnsteiner Kellerberg Smaragd 2012, F.X. Pichler, Oberloiben, Wachau. 97 Falstaff Punkte.

Riesling

Singerriedel Smaragd 2012, Franz Hirtzberger, Spitz, Wachau. 97 Falstaff Punkte.
Smaragd Unendlich 2012, F.X. Pichler, Oberloiben, Wachau. 97 Falstaff Punkte.

Roter Veltliner

Steinberg Privat 2011, Josef Fritz, Zaussenberg, Wagram. 95 Falstaff Punkte.
Rotgipfler Zierfandler

Rotgipfler Rodauner Top Selektion 2011, Karl Alphart, Traiskirchen, Thermenregion. 96 Falstaff Punkte.

Sauvignon Blanc

Privat 2007, Sattlerhof, Gamlitz, Südsteiermark. 97 Falstaff Punkte.

Traminer

Gewürztraminer Extrem 2012, Fritz Frühwirth, Klöch, Südoststeiermark. 94 Falstaff Punkte.

Weißburgunder/Pinot Blanc

2007, Alois Gross, Ratsch, Südsteiermark. 96 Falstaff Punkte.

schiller-wine: Related Postings

The American Art of Joanne Roberts Wittauer and the Austrian Wines of Klaus Wittauer– A Taste of Art and Wines at the Curious Grape in Shirlington in the Washington DC Area, USA

 “Wine Ambassador” Klaus Wittauer Presented Austrian Wines at the Embassy of Austria in Washington DC, USA

Tasting Leo Hillinger Red Wines with Leo Hillinger’s Assistant Winemaker Michael Hoeffken and US Importer Klaus Wittauer

Visiting Leo Hillinger, Michael Hoeffken and Edgar Brutler at the Leo Hillinger Winery in Jois, Austria

Leo Hillinger Wines and Alsatian Food with Hillinger’s Michael Hoeffken and Chef Jacques E. Haeringer at L’Auberge Chez François in Virginia, USA

Skype and Biodynamic Winemaking - Winetasting in the US with Winemaker Werner Michlits, Weingut Meinklang, in Austria

At the Forefront of Biodynamic Winemaking: Visiting Werner and Angela Michlits and their Weingut Meinklang in Austria

Welcome to America: Franz and Christine Netzl Estate, Carnuntum, Austria

Visiting Christine, Christina and Franz Netzl in their Weingut Netzl in Carnuntum, Austria

Martin Mittelbach from the "Tegernseehof" and Klaus Wittauer from "KWSelection" Presented Tegernseehof Wines and Stefan Trummer and Chef Austin Fausett from “Trummer’s on Main” in Clifton Austrian Appetizers at the Austrian Embassy in Washington DC, USA

Domaine Weinbach Wines and Alsatian Food with Winemaker Catherine Faller, Alsace, and Chef Jacques E. Haeringer, Virginia

Impressions from the Grand Tasting at Chateau Ste. Michelle in Woodinville, Washington State, USA

Austria’s Best Wines and Winemakers - Falstaff WeinGuide 2012

Austria’s Best Wines and Winemakers - Falstaff WeinGuide 2011

Austria’s Best Wines and Winemakers - Falstaff WeinGuide 2010 

Austria’s Best Red Wines - Falstaff RotweinGuide 2013

Austria’s Best Red Wines - Falstaff RotweinGuide 2010/2011

Wine ratings: Austria - Falstaff Top Red Wines 2009/2010

Summer of Riesling in Seattle - at RN74, USA

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Pictures: Summer of Riesling at RN74 in Seattle, USA

July 21 to September 21 is the Summer of Riesling period: Participating restaurants and wine bars offer a special selection of Rieslings by the glass. I was in Seattle during that period (for the 4. Riesling Rendezvous) and checked out the Summer of Riesling in Seattle.

Six restaurants participate this year: Bastille Cafe and Bar, RN74, Stoneburner, Ten Mercer, Von Trapp's, Wild Ginger. My favorite was: RN 74, with Wild Ginger closely behind. Unfortunately, Purple does not participate this year. Along with Wild Ginger and RN74, Purple has the best wine list in town.

Summer of Riesling 

The Summer of Riesling is the brainchild of New York City’s Riesling Guru Paul Grieco, from Hearth Restaurant and the Terroir Winebars. In addition, there is the 31 Days of German Riesling - As part of the Summer of Riesling, during the month of July, participating restaurants and retailers are focusing on German Riesling.

Picture: Annette Schiller, wine tours by ombiasy, and Christian G.E. Schiller hosting a Summer of Riesling Party at their Home in Washington DC (McLean, Virginia)

See here:
Summer of Riesling with Annette and Christian Schiller in Washington DC, USA

The Summer of Riesling concept was created in 2008 when Paul Grieco decided that during the summer the ONLY white wine that Terroir customers could get was Riesling. The following years the Summer of Riesling expanded in various ways, initially by enlisting other Manhattan wine bars as part of the celebration and adding a concert where the only alcoholic beverage available was Riesling—no beer, no spirits. In 2011 Paul took the Summer of Riesling national, with support from the International Riesling Foundation (IRF), an organization specifically created to promote Rieslings from around the world.

The Summer of Riesling - in Paul Grieco o-tone:

“What is it? - a love affair with the world's greatest grape expressed in full Technicolor.
Why? - because we must overcome this hackneyed belief that the glorious diversity of Riesling is also a fault...simply put, no grape can do what the Riesling grape can do.
Where? - every corner of the globe where wine is available.
When? - from June 21st to September 21st (we ain't kidding when we call it the Summer of Riesling!).
How? - by bringing everyone together and handing them a glass of Riesling and engaging them in conversation, with the thrust of the dialogue centering on:
Balance...of bone-crunching acidity and potential sweetness
Complexity...like a conversation with Jeffrey Sachs
Delicacy...as if Benjamin Millepied was dancing across your tongue
Longevity...suffice it to say, Moses lived a brief life compared to bottles of this wine
Sense of Place...even Bigfoot's footprint cannot encapsulate all the terroir that Riesling contains”

Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller with Paul Grieco at the 2013 Riesling and Co Tasting in New York City and Annette Schiller the Night before with Paul Grieco at the Riesling Road Trip Stop in Washington DC. For more on the 2013 Riesling and Co Tasting in New York, see: Schiller’s Favorites at the 2013 Riesling and Co Tasting in New York City, USA. For more on the Riesling Road Trip, see: Late Night German Riesling Tasting with Riesling Gurus Paul Grieco and Stuart Pigott in Washington DC on the 2013 Riesling Road Trip, USA

Riesling

Worldwide, there are about 34.000 hectares planted with Riesling. Germany – with 22.400 hectares – accounts for 2/3 of the total. The second largest Riesling producer is Australia, with 4500 hectares. But this is only about 1/10 of the total. Alsace follows with 3500 hectares.

Austria, the US with Washington State and New York State as well as New Zealand make up the remainder. But overall, Riesling is really a niche wine, accounting for only less than 1 percent of total wine production in the world - but a very special niche wine.

Dry and Sweet Riesling

Many wine drinkers, in particular outside of Europe, when they see a Riesling in the shelves, have the association of a sweet-style wine. This is however misguided. Rieslings as a rule are dry wines. Of course, there are the famous sugar sweet Beerenauslese, Trockenbeerenauslese, Eiswein and Schilfwein wines from Austria and Germany, the Sélection de Grains Nobles from France, the icewines from Canada and other Rieslings, made from botrytized, dried or frozen grapes.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Riesling at Le Mediterranean Bistro in Fairfax, Virginia

The grapes that go into these wines have such a high sugar content that there is nothing you can do to make dry wines out of these grapes. They inevitably produce nobly sweet wines. But apart from these specialty wine, which account for only a tiny share of total production, Riesling grapes in Germany, Austria, Alsace, the US and Australia have normal sugar content at the time of fermentation and tend to produce dry wines, when fully fermented.

However, modern cellar methods allow winemakers in Germany (and elsewhere) to produce wines with a bit of residual sugar with these grapes. These are exceptional wines, essentially made by not letting the fermentation going its full course so that natural sugar remains in the wine. Alternatively, German winemakers are allowed to add sweet-reserve (sterilized grape juice) to increase the sweetness level in the wine, but today, this is mostly done, if at all, for fine tuning the residual sweetness. These fruity-sweet wines are the wines that are so popular among the fans of German wine in the world. These sweet-style wines have lost popularity in Germany, although there appears to be a comeback, but in any case remain very popular outside of Germany, for example in the US.

Anyway, at the 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle earlier this year, Steffen Christmann, VDP President (Germany’s elite winemakers) and owner of Weingut A. Christmann estimated that “if you exclude the wines that cost less than Euro 15, I would think 95% of German wine is dry today.”

Summer of Riesling at RN74

RN74 belongs to the Michael Mina restaurant group. There are 2 RN74s, one in San Francisco and one in Seattle. “RN74 is an urban wine bar and restaurant by Michael Mina, Rajat Parr and Adam Sobel featuring modern interpretations of refined American and regional French cuisine with an extensive wine list highlighting the Burgundy region.

Pictures: RN74 in Seattle

For the RN74 in San Francisco, see here:

When I went there, RN74 had the following Rieslings by the glass:

RIESLING, BERGSTROM, WILLAMETTE VALLEY, OREGON 2009 $11
RIESLING, STE. MICHELLE EROICA, COLUMBIA VALLEY, WASHINGTON 2012 $11
RIESLING, GINGLINGER CUVEE DREI EXE, ALSACE, FRANCE 2010 $12
RIESLING, MAXIMIN GRUNHAUS TROCKEN, RUWER, GERMANY 2010 $15
RIESLING, ROBERT WEIL, RHEINGAU, GERMANY 2008 $15
RIESLING, DR. LOOSEN 'BERNKASTELER LAY' KABINETT, MOSEL, GERMANY 2012 $16

I chose: Eroica, Robert Weil and Maximin Gruenhaus. All three wines were excellent examples of what the Riesling grape can produce.

Eroica - made jointly by Chateau Ste, Michelle and Dr. Loosen - always has a distinct note of raisin on the nose and was smoother and softer than the 2 German Rieslings - a fine wine.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Ernst Loosen at Rasika in Washington DC. For more, see:Riesling, Pinot Noir and Indian Cuisine: A tête-à-tête Dinner with Winemaker Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at Rasika in Washington DC, USA 

I had tasted the 2010 Maximin Gruenhaus with owner Carl von Schubert a few weeks ago in Washington DC, when he passed through: “The estate Riesling Trocken (dry) is a blend of the barrels that remain after the single-vineyard dry wines have been selected out of the overall production. The result is an entry-level dry Riesling that shows the characteristic minerality of the area and the refined style of the Grünhaus estate.”

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Carl von Schubert in Washington DC. For more, see: Carl von Schubert from the Maximin Gruenhaus Estate Returned a Favor: With his Wines in Washington DC (and in Seattle), USA

Robert Weil Riesling: With grapes from other than the 3 top Weil vineyards (Graefenberg, Turmberg and Klosterberg, all of them grand cru and premier cru vineryards) , fully fermented in stainless steel, crisp, fresh and dry, an excellent Gutswein, i.e. entry-level wine.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Wilhelm Weil, Weingut Robert Weil, in Kiedrich. Weingut Weil belongs to the group of winemakers that make both dry and fruity-sweet wines, in addition to noble-sweet wines. See: Visiting Wilhelm Weil at his Weingut Robert Weil in Kiedrich, Germany. And: Tasting with Wilhelm Weil the 2010 Weingut Weil Wines in Kiedrich, Germany

schiller-wine - Related Postings

The 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle: Impressions from the Grand Tasting at Chateau Ste. Michelle in Woodinville, Washington State, USA

The World of Riesling in Seattle - Fourth Riesling Rendezvous in Washington State, USA

The German Winemakers at the Forthcoming 4. Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle, Washington State, USA

Stepping up: From 3 … to 4 Quality Levels - The New Classification of the VDP, Germany

German Spaetlese Wines Can Come in Different Versions. I Have Counted Five.

When Americans Drink German Wine - What They Choose

German Wine Basics: Sugar in the Grape - Alcohol and Sweetness in the Wine

Visiting Wilhelm Weil at his Weingut Robert Weil in Kiedrich, Germany

Tasting with Wilhelm Weil the 2010 Weingut Weil Wines in Kiedrich, Germany

Wine Consumption: Do Germans Drink Sweet or Dry Wine?

German Wine Basics: Grosse Lage and Grosslage (and Grosses Gewaechs)

VDP.Grosses Gewaechs, Erstes Gewaechs, Spaetlese/Auslese Trocken, … Labeling Dry Ultra-Premium Wines in Germany

Approaches to Classifying German Wine: The Standard Approach (the Law of 1971), the VDP Approach and the Zero Classification Approach

Video: How to Pronounce German Wine - Simon Woods' Enhanced Version

Ombiasy Wine Tours: Wine and Culture Tour to Germany Coming up in August 2013

Riesling, Pinot Noir and Indian Cuisine: A tête-à-tête Dinner with Winemaker Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at Rasika in Washington DC, USA

Summer of Riesling with Annette and Christian Schiller in Washington DC, USA

Schiller’s Favorites at the 2013 Riesling and Co Tasting in New York City, USA

Late Night German Riesling Tasting with Riesling Gurus Paul Grieco and Stuart Pigott in Washington DC on the 2013 Riesling Road Trip, USA

Carl von Schubert from the Maximin Gruenhaus Estate Returned a Favor: With his Wines in Washington DC (and in Seattle), USA 

Oysters and Dry Riesling: Tasting the Pacific Coast Oyster Wine Competition Award-winning Trefethen 2012 Dry Riesling with Kumamoto Oysters in Seattle, USA

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Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller, Winemaker Zeke Neeley, Trefethen Family Vineyards and the 2012 Trefethen Dry Riesling at the Grand Tasting of the 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle

Seattle Oyster-Guru Jon Rowley has been organizing Pacific Coast Oyster Wine Competition for 19 years. Never ever has a Riesling made it to the list of winners. But this changed in the past competition. For the first time, a Riesling was selected as perfect fit for oysters: the Trefethen Family Vineyards 2012 Dry Riesling.

See:
The 10 Winners of the 2013 Pacific Coast Oyster Wine Competition, USA
The 2012 Pacific Coast Oyster Wine Competition - 10 Oyster Wines
The Best Wines for US West Coast and Other Oysters

In July this year, the world of Riesling returned to Seattle in Washington State. The attraction was the 4th Riesling Rendezvous, a gathering of Riesling producers and enthusiasts from around the world. Riesling Rendezvous is sponsored by Chateau Ste. Michelle, the Washington State giant wine producer and Weingut Dr. Loosen, one of Germany’s top Riesling producers from the Mosel Valley. The famous Eroica Riesling from Washington State is a joint venture of Ste. Michelle and Dr. Loosen. Riesling Rendezvous is the largest international gathering of Riesling producers and enthusiasts in the world.

See:
Photo Album: 4th Riesling Rendezvous (2013) in Seattle, Washington State, USA
The 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle: Impressions from the Grand Tasting at Chateau Ste. Michelle in Woodinville, Washington State, USA
The World of Riesling in Seattle - Fourth Riesling Rendezvous in Washington State, USA

Winemaker Zeke Neeley of Trefethen Family Vineyards in California came up to Seattle to participate in the 4th Riesling Rendezvous. Zeke Neeley and Jon Rowley, the organizer of the Pacific Coast Oyster Wine Competition, put together a little event on the side of the 4th Riesling Rendezvous, where guests had the chance to taste some Kumamotos with the Pacific Coast Oyster Wine Competition 2013 Oyster Award-winning Trefethen 2012 Dry Riesling.

Trefethen Family Vineyards

Trefethen Vineyards was established in 1886 as Eshcol, a biblical word for “lush cluster of grapes.” Following retirement from a successful career with Kaiser Industries, Eugene Trefethen along with his wife Katie purchased Eshcol in 1968. They also purchased seven farms surrounding a magnificent, but run-down, 19th-century winery in southern Napa Valley and created Trefethen Family Vineyards. The couple’s intention was to sell all their grapes, but their son John had other ideas. In 1973, aided by his new bride Janet, John produced Trefethen Vineyards’ first commercial wine.

Picture: Trefethen Winemaker Zeke Neeley in Woodinville

True to the family’s vision of creating an acclaimed wine estate, they have never purchased outside grapes and are leaders in sustainable winegrowing. Today, the Trefethen family’s third generation, Loren and Hailey, assist their parents in continuing the family tradition of passion for the land, its people, and the art of crafting exceptional Napa Valley wines.

Recently, Trefethen Family Vineyards has achieved a milestone in its sustainability program by becoming one of the few California wineries to be 100 percent solar-powered.

Eugene Trefethen died in 1996 and Katie Trefethen died in 2007.

Riesling

Worldwide, there are about 34.000 hectares planted with Riesling. Germany – with 22.400 hectares – accounts for 2/3 of the total. The second largest Riesling producer is Australia, with 4500 hectares. But this is only about 1/10 of the total. Alsace follows with 3500 hectares.

Picture: Jon Rowley and Christian G.E. Schiller in 2011 in Seattle at Elliot's Oyster Bar, see: see: West Coast Oysters and Wine with Jon Rowley in Seattle, USA

Austria, the US with Washington State and New York State as well as New Zealand make up the remainder. But overall, Riesling is really a niche wine, accounting for only less than 1 percent of total wine production in the world - but a very special niche wine.

Dry and Sweet Riesling

Many wine drinkers, in particular outside of Europe, when they see a Riesling in the shelves, have the association of a sweet-style wine. This is however misguided. Rieslings as a rule are dry wines. Of course, there are the famous sugar sweet Beerenauslese, Trockenbeerenauslese, Eiswein and Schilfwein wines from Austria and Germany, the Sélection de Grains Nobles from France, the icewines from Canada and other Rieslings, made from botrytized, dried or frozen grapes.

The grapes that go into these wines have such a high sugar content that there is nothing you can do to make dry wines out of these grapes. They inevitably produce nobly sweet wines. But apart from these specialty wine, which account for only a tiny share of total production, Riesling grapes in Germany, Austria, Alsace, the US and Australia have normal sugar content at the time of fermentation and tend to produce dry wines, when fully fermented.

Pictures: Trefethen Winemaker Zeke Neeley Pouring his 2012 Trefethen Dry Riesling at the Oysters and 2012 Trefethen Dry Riesling Tasting in Seattle, organised by Oyster Guru Jon Rowley

However, modern cellar methods allow winemakers in Germany (and elsewhere) to produce wines with a bit of residual sugar with these grapes. These are exceptional wines, essentially made by not letting the fermentation going its full course so that natural sugar remains in the wine. Alternatively, German winemakers are allowed to add sweet-reserve (sterilized grape juice) to increase the sweetness level in the wine, but today, this is mostly done, if at all, for fine tuning the residual sweetness. These fruity-sweet wines are the wines that are so popular among the fans of German wine in the world. These sweet-style wines have lost popularity in Germany, although there appears to be a comeback, but in any case remain very popular outside of Germany, for example in the US. Anyway, they are very present in Germany’s export markets, but account only for a small share of total German wine production. Steffen Christmann, the President of the VDP, the German elite wine maker association, estimates that 95% of German wine beyond a price point of Euro 15 is dry.

4 Types of Oysters

The judges consumed about 1200 Kumamoto oysters. The Kumamoto belongs to the family of Pacific oysters. In fact, it is one of the most famous Pacific oysters. But oysters are found all over the world. I recently had delicious oysters in South Africa and Madagascar, which are typically not on the radar of the mainstream oyster eater.

I distinguish 4 types of oysters:

The Pacific

Originally from Japan, the Pacific or Japanese oyster is the most widely cultured oyster in the world. It accounts for 75% of world production. In France, it has crowded out the Belon and now accounts for 99% of oyster production there. Gone are the days of the Belon in Paris. The Pacific oysters are marketed under a variety of names, often denoting their growing area. The Kumamoto is one of the most famous Pacific oysters. I tend to think of a Pacific oyster as a creamy oyster, with a mineral note.

The Olympia

The Olympia is a very small oyster seldom exceeding 2 inches. For comparison, in Massachusetts, oysters must be a minimum of 3 inches to be sold. Olympia is a native American oyster, which once flourished on the West Coast, before the Pacific took over. Olympias are hard to find today as they grow very slowly and are difficult to transport. They hold very little liquid and dry out quickly. The Olympia has a very full flavor with a distinct aftertaste.

Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller, Jon Rowley and others Shucking Oysters at the Oysters and 2012 Trefethen Dry Riesling Tasting in Seattle

The Atlantic

Another American native, there are many varieties of Atlantic oysters, such as the Malpeque from Prince Edward Island in Canada and the Blue Point from Long Island in New York State. Bluepoints were originally named for Blue Point, Long Island but now the term is generally applied to any Atlantic oyster two four inches long. These two are now the most common restaurant oysters in the US. Also called Eastern oyster, the Atlantic has a thick, elongated shell that ranges from 2 to 5 inches across. It's found along the Atlantic seaboard and the Gulf of Mexico in the US.

The Belon

The Belon, or European Flat, is Europe’s native oyster. The Belons are round and shallow. That’s why they are called Flats. They are also not very liquid and dry out fast. They have a long history. They used to grow in Brittany, Normandy, England, Spain, Holland, Greece and the Black See. But a disease is wiping them out worldwide. The Flats from the Belon river in Brittany were at some point the connoisseur’s top choice and the name was soon adopted by all oyster growers, a bit like the Blue Points from Long Island. The Belon oyster grows in limited quantity in Maine on the rocks of the Damariscotta river bed.

For more on the different kinds of oysters, see:
Oysters and Wine

Pictures: Jon Rowley,Ursula Haslauer, Falstaff, and Christian G.E. Schiller at the Oysters and 2012 Trefethen Dry Riesling Tasting in Seattle

Trefethen 2012 Dry Riesling with Kumamoto Oysters

Not every wine goes with oysters - a vibrant combination of minerals, sweetness and the sea. In general, first, I always try to go local. Second, the best oyster wines are dry, crisp, clean-finishing white wines, both sparkling and still. I avoid red wines, although in South Africa I had a Cabernet Sauvignon with my oysters on the half shell, as suggested.

The 2012 Trefethen Dry Riesling was fermented and aged in stainless steel. It is a classic dry Riesling:

Bright in its focus, crisp and dry, notes of jasmine, orange blossom and lime on the nose that lead to floral flavors on the palate, delightful acidity and minerality, with a clean, lasting finish.

Dan Berger: “Classic Riesling aroma with a trace of jasmine spice, bright and lilting. Always a phenomenal wine...."

At the 4th Riesling Rendezvous, the 2010 Trefethen Dry Riesling, was one of the 20 wines of the International Riesling Tasting (Dry), which was a blind tasting. Neil Pike reviewed the wine: “Classic wine, citrus, a lot of texture, a bit of pair flavors, we are in the New World I think.”

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Photo Album: 4th Riesling Rendezvous (2013) in Seattle, Washington State, USA

The 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle: Impressions from the Grand Tasting at Chateau Ste. Michelle in Woodinville, Washington State, USA

The World of Riesling in Seattle - Fourth Riesling Rendezvous in Washington State, USA

International Tasting at the 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle, USA - Dry Riesling

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Picture: International Tasting  at the 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle - Dry Riesling

The world of Riesling returned to Seattle in Washington State.The attraction was the 4th Riesling Rendezvous, a gathering of Riesling producers and enthusiasts from around the world. Riesling Rendezvous is sponsored by Chateau Ste. Michelle, the Washington State giant wine producer and Weingut Dr. Loosen, one of Germany’s top Riesling producers from the Mosel Valley. The famous Eroica Riesling from Washington State is a joint venture of Ste. Michelle and Dr. Loosen. Riesling Rendezvous is the largest international gathering of Riesling producers and enthusiasts in the world. It features three days of tasting, discussing and learning about Riesling.

The 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle featured 3 major tastings: First, the walk-around tasting at Chateau Ste Michelle in Woodinville with about 70 Riesling producers from all around the world pouring 4 to 6 wines each.Second, the seated international blind tasting with 20 wines falling into the dry category. Third, the seated international blind tasting with 20 wines falling into the beyond dry category. The postings provides an account of the blind tasting of 20 dry wines.

I have already posted an article about the walk-around tasting in Woodinville:
The 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle: Impressions from the Grand Tasting at Chateau Ste. Michelle in Woodinville, Washington State, USA

This posting is part of a series of a dozen or so postings on the 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle. I have posted so far:

The German Winemakers at the 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle, USA
Steffen Christmann (Weingut A. Christmann) and Wilhelm Weil (Weingut Robert Weil) Presented the New Wine Classification of the VDP, Germany
Photo Album: 4th Riesling Rendezvous (2013) in Seattle, Washington State, USA
The 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle: Impressions from the Grand Tasting at Chateau Ste. Michelle in Woodinville, Washington State, USA
The World of Riesling in Seattle - Fourth Riesling Rendezvous in Washington State, USA

Coming Up in July: 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle, Washington State, USA 
The German Winemakers at the Forthcoming 4. Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle, Washington State, USA 

Pictures: International Tasting at the 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle - Dry Riesling

Pictures: The First Row - Stuart Pigott, Kirk Wille, Bob Berteau, Ernst Loosen, Ste Michelle Vice President Douglas N. Gore and Ste. Michelle President Ted Baseler

Picture: The German Team - Picture: Helmut Doennhoff, Weingut Doennhoff, Oliver Haag, Weingut Fritz Haag and Steffen Christmann, Weingut A. Christmann

Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller Tasting at the International Tasting  at the 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle - Dry Riesling, USA

Panel

Here is how the tasting went. The tasting was orchestrated by US Wine Journalist. For each wine, he would first ask one of 6 panel members to say something about the wine. In particular, the panel expert was expected to guess where the wine might come from. Fir some wines, other panel experts also provided their opinion. Then he might turn to the tasters and ask for a show of hands, if, mostly, the wine was new world or old world. Then, the identity of the wine was revelealed and the winemaker or owner was asked to provide some comments.

In general, it was a mazing how off the panel experts sometimes were in terms of their assessment. Also, the how of hands often revealed a stark division among the 300 tasters. Overall, the new world wines held up very well with the heavy weights from Germany and Austria.

The Panel:

John Haeger (Moderator)
Stephen Brook
Fred Loimer
Fred Merwarth (Hermann J. Wiemer)
Neil Pike
Jason Smith MS
Wilhelm Weil

20 Dry Rieslings - Blindtasting

Mitchell Wines (Australia)

2012 Watervale Riesling
0.2 g/L RS

Fred Loimer: Citrus tones, yellow arromas, coole vintage, probably old world.

Jason Smith: Shows more new world style.


Jim Barry Wines (Australia)

2005 The Florita Riesling
0.99 g/L RS

Stephen Brook: I adore this style of Riesling, strong minerality, both on the nose and the palate, has length, depth, I have no clou where the wine comes from.

Jason Smith: Lots of minerality, could be a great Rheingau or Pfalz wine from Germany.


Weingut Knoll (Austria)

2011 Ried Schutt Riesling Smaragd
2.5 g/L RS

Neil Pike: Lovely wine, it is not bone dry, lovely balance, get a hint of sweetness, New World wine, Australia.

Jason Smith: Washington State, because alcohol level is high, or Oregon/Michigan.

Show of hands: Majority votes for: New World.

Owner/Winemaker Emmerich Knoll.


Markus Huber (Austria)

2011 Riesling Engelreich
3.4 g/L RS

Fred Merwarth: Nice fruit/minerality interplay, not super powerful, medium weight, very expressive on the palate, tight finish, I guess Pfalz, Germany.

Owner/Winemaker Markus Huber.


Domaene Wachau (Austria)

Riesling Smaragd Achleiten
3.1 g/L RS

Wilhelm Weil: Very complex nose, good structure, not too much alcohol, well balanced, hopes that the wine is from Germany.

Winemaker Heinz Frischgruber, Domäne Wachau.


Pikes (Australia)

2012 Traditional Riesling
3.6 g/L RS

Wilhelm Weil: middle bodied, very good fruit, easy to understand for the market, not as good as the previous wine.

Jason Smith: What strikes me is the racy minerality, leaves me to believe it is a dry Mosel wine.

Neil Pike.


Battenfeld-Spanier (Germany)

2008 Frauenberg Riesling
4 g/L RS

Fred Merwarth: Shows well the different possibilites of Riesling, Auslese nose with botrytis, great example of a dry botrytised wine.


Trefethen Family Vineyards (California)

2010 Dry Riesling Oak Knoll District
6 g/L RS

Neil Pike: Classic wine, citrus, a lot of texture, a bit of pair flavors, we are in the new world I think.


A. Christmann (Pfalz, Germany)

2011 Idig Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewaechs

Jason Smith: citrusy nose, floral chracteristsics, I get also apple pair notes, we are in the US again, perhaps Oergon.

Steffen Christmann: Our best vineyard, most southern region for Riesling in Germany, clear, ripe fruit, a Grosse Lage (Grand Cru), picked by hand, we are biodynamic


Dr. Loosen (Mosel)

2011 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Grosses Gewaechs
6.4 g/L

Jason Smith: Very similar to the previous wine, riper style, fruitier, not as much acidity, brings to me the North West in the US.

Ernst Loosen: on their own rootstocks, we ferment with natural yeast, you have acidity, minerality, dry Riesling can age and this wine can.

For more on Dr. Loosen, see:
Riesling from Germany and Pinot Noir from Oregon: A Winemaker Dinner with Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen and J.Christopher Wines, at Black Salt in Washington DC.
Riesling, Pinot Noir and Indian Cuisine: A tête-à-tête Dinner with Winemaker Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at Rasika in Washington DC, USA
Ernst Loosen and Dr. L. Riesling - His Hugely Popular Entry-level Wine Sold Throughout the World;
The Doctor Made a House Call - A Tasting with Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at MacArthur Beverages in Washington DC, USA
A Riesling Guru and a Killer Guitarist cum Cult Winemaker: Ernst Loosen and Jay Somers and their J. Christopher Winery in Newberg, Oregon
Wine ratings: Two American/German wines - Eroica and Poet's Leap - on Top 100 Wines from Washington State list for 2009
German American Wines: (1) Pacific Rim Riesling (2) Eroica and (3) Woelffer's Schillerwein


Mercer Estates (Washington State)

2011 Riesling
10.6 g/L RS

Fred Loimer: Very clear, very clean, perfectly ripe grapes, very nice minerality, great balance.


Chateau Grand Traverse (Michigan)

2010 Lot 49 Riesling
6.5 g/L RS

Fred Merwarth: Very good ripeness, acidity very direct, very complex on the palate, should have a long life, suggestion: North West USA.

Only 400 cases made.


Tantalus Vineyards (Canada)

2008 Old Vines Riesling
14 g/L RS

Wilhelm Weil: Very complex structure, interesting wine, long finish,

Stephen Brook: A German Riesling

Jason Smith: Australia


Robert Weil (Rheingau)

2009 Kiedricher Graefenberg Erstes Gewaechs
13.5 g/ L RS

Neil Pike: Lovely complexity, beautiful apricot notes, stays in the mouth, with real depth.

See also:
Tasting with Wilhelm Weil the 2010 Weingut Weil Wines in Kiedrich, Germany
Visiting Wilhelm Weil at his Weingut Robert Weil in Kiedrich, Germany 


Villa Maria Estate (New Zealand)

2011 Cellar Selection Dry Riesling
7 g/L RS

Jason Smith: More restrained, lifely, lemon notes, mineral, racy acidity, brings me to the Old World: Mosel


Chateau Ste. Michelle (Washington State)

2012 Dry Riesling
7.1 g/L

Stephen Brook: Medium weight, not very complex, but has other assets: freshness, I think: Germany

Bob Bertheau: Shows what Washington State can deliver. In the past 4 years, sales of this wine have doubled.


Black Star Farms (Michigan)

2011 Arcturos Dry Riesling
9.6 g/L

Stephen Brook: Lean, crisp, lots of fruit, a real pleasure, not too complex, pleasant, probably New World, Michigan perhaps.


Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyards (Finger Lakes)

2012 Dry Riesling
9 g/L RS

Jason Smith: Fair amount of sugar, lots of fruit, New World, Michigan.

Fred Merwarth: All natural fermentation, short fermentation, a blend from all our vineyards.


Loimer (Austria)

2010 Langenlois Seeberg Riesling Kamptal DAC Reserve

Fred Merwarth: Elegant, round on the palate, a lot of texture, acidity is a defining element, do not know where the wine comes from

Jason Smith: We are back in the Old World, probably Aistria, acidity is racy.

Fred Loimer: Fermented in stainless steel, aged in wood


Clemens Busch (Mosel)

2010 Marienberg 1.Lage Grosses Gewaechs Fahrlay Riesling Trocken
8.9 g/L RS

Stephen Brook: Very impressive wine, good concentration, terrific length, racy, probably from Germany.

Jason Smith: With the richness and the ripeness: New World.

Clemens Busch.

See also:
With Wine Maker Clemens Busch in Puenderich at his Winery in the Mosel Valley, Germany 


20 International Rieslings - Dry

At the end, a summary table of the 20 wines we had tasted blind, was provided.


schiller-wine: Related Postings

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Germany’s 2011 VDP Grosses Gewaechs – Grand Cru - Wines Released. Notes from the Pre-release Tasting in Wiesbaden, Germany

German Spaetlese Wines Can Come in Different Versions. I Have Counted Five.

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Wine Blogger Christian G.E. Schiller from schiller-wine Featured Guest of #SommChat on Twitter

Visiting Wilhelm Weil at his Weingut Robert Weil in Kiedrich, Germany

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Breakfast with Doreen Winkler at Balthazar – An European (German) Sommelier in New York City, USA

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Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Doreen Winkler at Balthazar in New York City

I was up in New York City for the 31-Days-of-German Riesling Boat Trip organized by Paul Grieco and I took advantage of this trip for a couple of meet-ups. One was a breakfast meeting at Balthazar in the Village with Doreen Winkler.

For more, see here:
The Mainz Wine Amazones - Christine Huff, Mirjam Schneider and Eva Vollmer - in New York City, USA
The 31-Days-of-German-Riesling Concert Cruise Around New York Harbor with the German Wine Queen Julia Bertram and the 3 Wine Amazones Tina Huff, Eva Vollmer and Mirjam Schneider from Mainz, Germany

I had watched Doreen’s 2 very interesting video interviews with Hendrik Thoma in Hamburg, Germany and I had become interested in what Doreen Winkler was doing in New York City: “I’m a European Sommelier who owns and operates her own Wine Consulting and Events business in New York City "Diamond Sommelier Services" she explained to me over breakfast at Balthasar, the trendy brasserie in the Village.

For more, see here:
Wein am Limit: The “German Gary Vaynerchuck” Hendrik Thoma Moves on, Germany

Pictures: Balthasar - One of my New York City Favorites, see also: Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in New York City, USA

Before installing herself in the US, Doreen was a Sommelier in Hamburg in Germany. She was also toying with the idea of moving to Australia to spent some time in Sidney. The first time that she set foot on American soil was in 2006. Hendrik Thoma had helped her to find a Sommelier job in Michigan. From there she worked herself to the East until she hit New York City. “New York is my kind of city.” Doreen said. Since she arrived in New York she has slowly but successfully established herself as a major force in the restaurant/catering industry in New York City.

Pink Memo on Doreen Winkler

Here is what you can find on Pink Memo about Doreen Winkler: “German born Doreen Winkler knows her wine. Her success as a sommelier at the age of 22 gained her entry to the most fabulous restaurants and hotels all over Europe. Armed with her international wine knowledge and experience, she made the jump oversees to the big apple and hasn’t looked back. As a sommelier and event planner in NYC, she is the go-to-girl for what’s happening in the city. In 2012 after working 15 years in hospitality, Doreen launched her own company Diamond Sommelier Services. From freelancing for wine programs, high-end wine paired caterings, and hosting swanky wine and art events for Jorge Posada this girl is in the know.”

Pictures: Doreen Winkler at Balthazar

Wine and Art Events

“I am in particular excited about the wine and arts event I have done so far and I want to do many more, here in New York City or elsewhere in the country. Why not in San Francisco, Miami or the Nation’s Capital, Washington DC?” said Doreen. “At Diamond Sommelier Services, we consider wine to be an art and believe in the celebration of art in all its many forms. Diamond Sommelier Services partners with a handful of amazing artists, to create events which celebrate art, wine, and lifestyle. These elegant events provide a setting where you can meet people who share your love of wine, art and fine food.”

Picture: Doreen Winkler with Annette Schiller, wine tours by ombiasy and Christian G.E. Schiller at Balthazar

See also:
Ombiasy Wine Tours: Wine and Culture Tour to Germany Coming up in August 2013
Ombiasy Wine Tours: Coming up: Bordeaux Wine Tour September 2013

Follow Doreen

You can follow Doreen’s journey through Manhattan’s wine, food, and art scene on Twitter (@DoreenWinkler) and Facebook. Or you can visit her website Diamond Sommelier Services.

Doreen has just started to write for Industry Magazine. Her first article on Chef Fredrik Berselius’s personal mission to bring Scandinavia to Brooklyn is already out and two other articles are in the pipeline to be published in due course. Finally, Doreen Winkler is also a contributing writer for Winechannel TV.

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America's Best Oyster Bars (2013)

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Picture: Christian G.E.Schiller with Jon Rowley in Seattle at Elliott's Oyster House. Seattle Oyster-Guru Jon Rowley has organized the Pacific Coast Oyster Wine Competition for 19 years. For the winners of the past years, see:
The 10 Winners of the 2013 Pacific Coast Oyster Wine Competition, USA
The 2012 Pacific Coast Oyster Wine Competition - 10 Oyster Wines
The Best Wines for US West Coast and Other Oysters

In my home country Germany, oysters are very high on the list of any food aficionado, but you do not see them often on menus in restaurants nor is there a significant number of oyster bars in Germany. By contrast, in France, oysters are almost a daily staple, at least during the season. Similarly, at both coasts of the US, oysters are part of daily life. In Washington DC, supermarkets tend to have a nice seafood selection, including oysters and there are many oyster bars and restaurants that serve oysters at their bar.

America's Best Oyster Bars

Food and Wine issued a nice list of America's top oyster bars. It is a good list, as far as I can see. I would have included the Grand Central Station Oyster Bar in New York. Others may have more suggestions. But this is always the case with such lists. In any case it is a good bsae to work from.

Here is the list:

Hog Island Oyster Bar; San Francisco


Picture: Hog Island Oyster Bar in San Francisco


Elliott’s Oyster House; Seattle


Pictures: Elliott’s Oyster House in Seattle





4 Types of Oysters

I distinguish 4 types of oysters:

The Pacific

Originally from Japan, the Pacific or Japanese oyster is the most widely cultured oyster in the world. It accounts for 75% of world production. In France, it has crowded out the Belon and now accounts for 99% of oyster production there. Gone are the days of the Belon in Paris. The Pacific oysters are marketed under a variety of names, often denoting their growing area. The Kumamoto is one of the most famous Pacific oysters. I tend to think of a Pacific oyster as a creamy oyster, with a mineral note.

The Olympia

The Olympia is a very small oyster seldom exceeding 2 inches. For comparison, in Massachusetts, oysters must be a minimum of 3 inches to be sold. Olympia is a native American oyster, which once flourished on the West Coast, before the Pacific took over. Olympias are hard to find today as they grow very slowly and are difficult to transport. They hold very little liquid and dry out quickly. The Olympia has a very full flavor with a distinct aftertaste.

The Atlantic

Another American native, there are many varieties of Atlantic oysters, such as the Malpeque from Prince Edward Island in Canada and the Blue Point from Long Island in New York State. Bluepoints were originally named for Blue Point, Long Island but now the term is generally applied to any Atlantic oyster two four inches long. These two are now the most common restaurant oysters in the US. Also called Eastern oyster, the Atlantic has a thick, elongated shell that ranges from 2 to 5 inches across. It's found along the Atlantic seaboard and the Gulf of Mexico in the US.

The Belon

The Belon, or European Flat, is Europe’s native oyster. The Belons are round and shallow. That’s why they are called Flats. They are also not very liquid and dry out fast. They have a long history. They used to grow in Brittany, Normandy, England, Spain, Holland, Greece and the Black See. But a disease is wiping them out worldwide. The Flats from the Belon river in Brittany were at some point the connoisseur’s top choice and the name was soon adopted by all oyster growers, a bit like the Blue Points from Long Island. The Belon oyster grows in limited quantity in Maine on the rocks of the Damariscotta river bed.

For more on the different kinds of oysters, see:
Oysters and Wine

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Oysters and Wine

The Best Wines for US West Coast and Other Oysters

West Coast Oysters and Wine with Jon Rowley in Seattle, USA

Maryland Crabs and Wine, USA

Wine and Crab Cakes: Amy Brandwein from Casa Nonna and Chris Clime from PassionFish win the 6th Annual Crab Cake Competition in Washington DC, USA

In the Glass: A Rust en Vrede 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon With South African Oysters in Stellenbosch

A Plateau des Fruits de Mer and a Pessac-Leognan Wine in Bordeaux City, France

Schiller's World of Seafood

In the Glass: A Rust en Vrede 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon with South African Oysters in Stellenbosch

Oysters - and Wine - at Zuni Café in San Francisco, USA

The 2012 Pacific Coast Oyster Wine Competition - 10 Oyster Wines

Tasting Virginia Chesapeake Bay Oysters with Oyster Producer Travis Craxton at the Rappahannock River, USA

Rappahannock Oyster Bar at Union Station– Virginia Oysters in Washington DC, USA

Impressions from the Apple Wine Festival 2013 in Frankfurt am Main, Germany

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Picture: Apple Wine Festival 2013 in Frankfurt am Main.

More than any other city in Germany, Frankfurt’s panorama is defined by its famous high-rise skyline. As the Main metropolis is one of the leading financial centres in Europe, many banks have built some extraordinary skyscrapers in the city centre. This is also where the highest office building on the continent, the almost 260 m high Commerzbank Tower (picture above) stands. The Rothschild Empire has its origins in Frankfurt (See:(German) Winemakers in the World: The German Roots of the Baron Philippe de Rothschild Empire). Frankfurt is also a cultural center - Johann Wolfgang von Goethe was borne in Frankfurt. In the picture above, you can see the Gutenberg Monument - Gutenberg was borne in the Frankfurt area and introduced printing to Europe.

I grew up with apple wine in Frankfurt am Main, Germany. Although there are 3 beer breweries in Frankfurt and the world renowned Rheingau and Rheinhessen wine regions just 30 minutes away from Frankfurt by S-Bahn or car, I would say that Frankfurt am Main is a city of cider.

Most of the apple wine is consumed at a traditional apple wine tavern (Apfelweinwirtschaft). Frankfurt has a large number of traditional apple wine taverns, where you sit on communal benches, eat hearty local food and drink sour and tart German apple wine. Typically, there is only one apple wine – the house apple wine – available, in some cases made on the premise.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Louie Hoelzinger (Apple Wine Tavern "Desche Otto") and  a Noell Bembel (4-er bembel, for 4 glasses)

In August, Frankfurt celebrates its popular beverage with an Apple Wine Festival right in the center of the city on the Rossmarkt. Rossmarkt means Horse Market - was the site of horse trading. Typical Frankfurt folklore and dialect poetry provide amusement for both the young and the old, while Hessian cult bands get their audiences singing and dancing on the square. Apple wines from different producers are available for tasting at the festival’s booths. I appreciated in particular the special variety apple wines of Kelterei Noell (from Griesheim, a district of Frankfurt) and the "Hausschoppen" (house apple wine) of the apple wine tavern Buchscheer in Sachsenhausen, also a district of Frankfurt.

Pictures: Apple Wine Festival 2013 in Frankfurt am Main - Please note the Gutenberg Monument. Johannes Gensfleisch zur Laden zum Gutenberg (1395 – 1468) was a German

Cider in the World and Apple Wine in Frankfurt am Main

Apple wine is a German variant of (hard) cider. Cider is made and consumed all over the world. The French cidre is produced in Normandy and Brittany. It comes as cidre doux, cidre demi-sec and cidre brut, but most French cidre is sweet. Typically, French ciders are sparkling. Higher quality French cider is sold in champagne-style bottles (cidre bouché). German cider has a tart, sour taste. In the UK, cider is available in sweet, medium and dry varieties. In the US during colonial times, apple cider was the main beverage, but after prohibition the word cider came to mean unfiltered apple juice. Alcoholic cider is called hard cider in the US. German apple wine typically has an alcohol content of 4%–9% and a tart, sour taste. Traditionally, it is not bubbly.

Pictures: Apple Wine Festival 2013 in Frankfurt am Main

Cider was already known to the ancient Greeks and Romans. In the 11th century it was introduced into Spain and was used there as a medicine for scurvy. It was introduced into England in 1066 when William the Great brought some from France into England.

Apple wine did not gain popularity in Hessen until the 16th century. By the mid-19th century, 12 large commercial apple-wineries existing in Frankfurt, along with hundreds of small or private apple-wineries. Today, over 60 large and small commercial apple-wineries exist in Hessen, producing 1,040 million gallons (40 million liters) annually.

Picture: Dirk Schneider - Board Member of the "Foerderverein Deutsches Apfelwein Museum e.V." The sole objective of the association is the establishment of an Apple Wine Museum in Frankfurt, preferably in the center of Frankfurt.

Apple Wine Taverns

In Frankfurt, much of the apple wine is consumed at the wooden, communal tables in the local apple wine taverns with hearty local food, like Green Sauce (made from 7 herbs and yogurt accompanied by boiled eggs and boiled potatoes), Rippchen mit Kraut und Brot (grilled pork, sauerkraut and bread). It is served in a Geripptes, a glass with a lozenge cut that refracts light. A filled Geripptes is called a Schoppen. If you drink more than a glass or are in a group, you typically order a Bembel (a specific Apfelwein jug). The different sizes of a Bembel are designated after their contents in glasses from 4-er to 10-er Bembel.

Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller with Louie Hoelzinger of the Apple Wine Tavern "Desche Otto"

See also:
Mainlust “Desche Otto”– an Ultra Traditional Apple Wine Tavern, with an Innovative Twist, off the Beaten Track in Schwanheim, Frankfurt am Main, Germany 

The traditional apple wine tavern is as distinctive a Frankfurt institution as the Bierkeller is of Munich or the Weinstube of Mainz. Many of the best-known establishments are concentrated in Sachsenhausen, but others are dotted all over the city. They are strongly traditional. They offer hearty local cuisine, usually at moderate prices.

Overall, the various apple wine taverns do not differ that much one from another. However, while most of the apple wine taverns pour an apple wine bought from an apple wine producer, there are a few taverns that still make the apple wine they serve on the premise. Zur Buchscheer in Frankfurt Sachsenhausen is one of the apple wine taverns in Frankfurt, where the apple wine you drink is also produced on the premise. Then there are some apple wine taverns, where you meet more tourists and foreigners. These are very good apple wine taverns, which try to be open-minded to foreigners and tourists, while preserving the traditions of a typical apple wine tavern. A prime example is Adolf Wagner in the Schweizer Strasse in Sachsenhausen. Others are less accommodative to foreigners and more rigid in terms of how the place is being run. A prime example is Zu den 3 Steubern, also in Sachsenhausen, an apple wine tavern as traditional as can be, serving its home-made apple wine.

Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller and Robert Theobald of "Zur Buchscheer"

See also:
Apple Wine Tavern Zur Buchscheer in Frankfurt am Main, Germany – The Traditional Way: Apple Wine Made on the Premises 

And see:
Schiller's Favorite Apple Wine Taverns in Frankfurt am Main, Germany

Making Apple Wine (Cider)

Just as wine making begins in the vineyard, cider making begins in the orchard. Tree ripened fruit, picked at maximum flavor and sweetness is the best starting point for cider. But there is one big difference between cider and wine: Apples must be ground before pressing. The entire apple is ground to a pulp called pommace. The pulp is almost always pressed immediately. The next step is the fermentation. Generally, there is less sugar to ferment in apples than in grapes. Therefore, cider tends to have lower alcohol content than wine.

Pictures: Alexander Noell and his mother Maria Noell of Apfelweinkelterei Noell with Christian G.E. Schiller - Kelterei Noell belongs to the small group of apple wine producers that have started to make specific variety apple wines. I tasted with Maria Noell a range of interesting specific variety apple wines.

In the cellar, cider makers have as many options for managing fermentation as winemakers — chaptalisation, wild yeast, temperature control, adding sterilized juice, malolactic fermentation, stopping fermentation before dryness to achieve a naturally sweetened cider, to name a few issues.

Like wine made from grapes, the flavor of cider can vary from dry to sweet. Like sparkling and still wine, both sparkling and still ciders are made. Sometimes the cider is cloudy with sediment and sometimes completely clear. The color can range from light yellow through orange to brown. The variations in clarity and color are mostly due to filtering between pressing and fermentation. In terms of alcohol content, cider can vary from 2% to 8.5%. Generally, apples grown for consumption are suitable for cider making, although there are also special cider apples.

Pictures: Apple Wine and the Commerzbank Tower, the Highest Highrise Office Building in Europe

For sparkling cider, basically the same methods are available as for sparkling wine. Higher quality ciders can be made the same way as Champagne is produced. A few producers in Quebec, inspired ice wine, have developed cidre de glace - ice cider. Calvados from Normandy is distilled from cider. Cider may also be used to make vinegar.

Pictures: "Die Claudia und de Louie" - Claudia Olschowski and Louie Hoelzinger, Partners in Life and Business ("Desche Otto") and Music

A few years ago, a number of artisan apple wine producers started to produce vintage apple wines and special variety apple wines. While the choice of apple wine in an apple wine tavern is as basic as it can get (the house apple wine), the apple wine portfolios of the artisan apple wine producers resemble very much those of the Rheingau or Rheinhessen wine makers a few miles away: There is a variety of different apple wines, with the vintage, apple variety, alcohol level, and other information indicated. One of the leaders of this new generation of artisan apple wine producers is Andreas Schneider.

schiller-wine - Related Postings

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Schiller's Favorite Apple Wine Taverns in Frankfurt am Main, Germany

In an Apple Wine (Cider) Mecca: The Apple Wine Bistrorant Landsteiner Muehle of Apple Wine Sommelier Michael Stoeckl near Frankfurt am Main, Germany

An Apple Wine Tavern as Traditional as can be in Frankfurt am Main: “Zu den 3 Steubern” of Wolfgang Wagner, Germany

Mainlust “Desche Otto”– an Ultra Traditional Apple Wine Tavern, with an Innovative Twist, off the Beaten Track in Schwanheim, Frankfurt am Main, Germany

German) Winemakers in the World: The German Roots of the Baron Philippe de Rothschild Empire)

Austria at the 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle, USA

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Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller with Fred Loimer, Markus Huber and Emmerich Knoll at the 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle

The world of Riesling returned to Seattle in Washington State. The attraction was the 4th Riesling Rendezvous, a gathering of Riesling producers and enthusiasts from around the world. Riesling Rendezvous is sponsored by Chateau Ste. Michelle, the Washington State giant wine producer and Weingut Dr. Loosen, one of Germany’s top Riesling producers from the Mosel Valley. The famous Eroica Riesling from Washington State is a joint venture of Ste. Michelle and Dr. Loosen. Riesling Rendezvous is the largest international gathering of Riesling producers and enthusiasts in the world. It features three days of tasting, discussing and learning about Riesling.

Austria was represented by 4 elite winemakers. This posting profiles the Austrian winemakers who flew over to Seattle to participate in the 4th Riesling Rendezvous.

This posting is part of a series of a dozen or so postings on the 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle. I have posted so far:

International Tasting  at the 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle - Dry Riesling, USA
The German Winemakers at the 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle, USA
Steffen Christmann (Weingut A. Christmann) and Wilhelm Weil (Weingut Robert Weil) Presented the New Wine Classification of the VDP, Germany
Photo Album: 4th Riesling Rendezvous (2013) in Seattle, Washington State, USA
The 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle: Impressions from the Grand Tasting at Chateau Ste. Michelle in Woodinville, Washington State, USA
The World of Riesling in Seattle - Fourth Riesling Rendezvous in Washington State, USA

Coming Up in July: 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle, Washington State, USA 
The German Winemakers at the Forthcoming 4. Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle, Washington State, USA

Winemaker Austria

Austria has about 50.000 hectares of vineyard, equivalent to about half of Germany’s total vineyard area and one fifth of France’s vineyard area. In terms of world output, Austria’s vineyard area accounts for 0.7 % of the total. Almost all of it in the east of the country. “In the west we ski, in the east we make wine”, says Willi Klinger, head of Austrian Marketing Board. About 70 % of the production is white wine and 30% red wine. About 75 percent of Austria’s production is consumed in Austria and 25 percent is exported.

Picture: Markus Huber, Emmerich Knoll and Heinz Frischengruber at the International Tasting - Dry Riesling

Austrian wine culture is ancient; people have been producing wine in Austria for 4000 years. But everything changed in 1985, when Austria was rocked by the “antifreeze wine scandal”. Some vintners were caught illicitly sweetening their products with glycol. As a result, the market for Austrian wine, especially the semi-sweet styles then in favor, evaporated overnight. Yet the scandal initiated a revolution that has propelled Austrian wines on to the world stage. It led to a broad rethink, with an emphasis on higher-quality production and innovation that soon became noticed. Young winemakers, drawn by the new emphasis on quality over quantity, brought cutting-edge techniques and farsightedness to vineyards and cellars, revolutionizing both.

Markus Huber, Weingut Markus Huber, Traisenthal

Markus Huber is one of Austria's superstar winemakers. After a successful career as a pro soccer player, Markus Huber returned home to take over the family winery operations. He quickly established himself as a visionary in a region (Traisenthal) that’s only recently emerged on the world stage as a source of high quality Austrian wine.

Pictures: Markus Huber and Christian Schiller at the 4th Riesling Rendezvous

The Huber family has wine growing roots dating back more than 220 years. Today – with Markus Huber at the helm - the winery in Reichersdorf is in its 10th generation. Typical of the Traisental, Weingut Huber produces primarily Grüner Veltliner (about 70%), along with about 10% Riesling, 10% Zweigelt – their only red fruited vine – and small quantities of Sauvignon Blanc, Müller Thurgau and Muscat (20 hectares). Weingut Markus Huber practices sustainable farming, utilizing no herbicides or pesticides. For the last few years, all wines have been bottled under screw cap. “Sustainable development, carefully controlling the harvest and meticulous pruning are the most natural and important prerequisites for successful winemaking,” says Markus Huber.

4 stars Falstaff


Picture: Markus Huber at the International Tasting - Dry Riesling

Fred Loimer, Weingut Loimer, Kamptal

Born into a winemaking family, Fred Loimer Jr. realized early on that he would have a future in the winemaking business. Following his formal education and experiences abroad working for other wineries, he returned to his family’s winery in Langenlois, where he utilized his newly gained experience – something that didn´t always please his father.

Pictures: Fred Loimer and Christian Schiller at the 4th Riesling Rendezvous

In 1998, one year after the winery was handed over from father to son; Loimer bought a historical vaulted brick cellar, a former cellar of the Haindorf Castle, in the middle of the grapevines between Langenlois and Zöbing. He renovated the cellar adding a minimalist building above to serve as the tasting room and office.

Since 1999, the wines have been vinified and stored in the historical cellar under perfect, natural temperature conditions. Moreover, the Veltliners and Rieslings from single vineyard sites are ranked amongst the best wines of Austria and the wine world.

Picture: Fred Loimer as Panelist at the International Tasting - Dry Riesling

The vineyards owned and managed by Loimer comprise a variety of the Kamptal region’s soils: loess, loam, gneiss and gravel. The single vineyard estate wines, signified by their plain white linen labels, are sourced from older vineyards that have been tended under biodynamic principles since 2006.

4 stars Falstaff

Emmrich Knoll, Weingut Knoll, Wachau

Weingut Knoll is one of Austria's most famous wine-growing estates. It is located in Unterloiben in the Wachau. It has been run by the family for decades and today Emmerich II and Monika Knoll and their sons Emmerich III, who travelled far to acquire knowledge on his passion and August, who just finished studies in agriculture, are in charge of the 15 hectares of land where the famous grapes grow.

Pictures: Emmerich Knoll and Christian Schiller at the 4th Riesling Rendezvous

Holdings of the estate can be found in top Wachau sites as Schuett, Loibenberg, Kellerberg, Kreutles and the kremstal vineyard Pfaffenberg. Over 45% of the vineyards are planted with each Grüner Veltliner and Riesling, the remaining 5% for Chardonnay, Gelber Muskateller, Rivaner, Gelber Traminer and Pinot Noir.

5 stars Falstaff

Picture: Emmerich Knoll at the International Tasting - Dry Riesling

Domaene Wachau, Wachau

The Domäne Wachau is deeply rooted in the Wachau region. Close to 440 hectares of vineyards are cultivated by the members of this quality-oriented cooperative – that makes 30 percent of the entire Wachau vineyard area. These vineyards are found on steep terraces reinforced by old dry stone walls and are part of a World Cultural Heritage. Famous names like Achleiten, Kollmitz, Loibenberg and Tausend-Eimer-Berg are found on the Domäne Wachau’s vineyard map and make it the only winery in the Wachau with wines from all of the most prestigious sites in the region.

Pictures: Heinz Frischgruber at the 4th International Riesling Symposium in Seattle

As a member of the Vinea Wachau Nobils Districtus quality association, Domäne Wachau produces wines in the categories Steinfeder, Federspiel and Smaragd. Domäne Wachau is among the largest wineries in Austria.

In the capable hands of a dynamic and young team, headed by GM Roman Horvath and Winemaker Heinz Frischengruber, Domäne Wachau has now established itself in the ranks of Austria’s leading wineries.

3 stars Falstaff

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With the WienWein Winemakers in Vienna in the Heurigen Drinking Gemischter Satz Wine

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Meeting “John” Nittnaus from Gols, Burgenland, Austria

Visiting Christine, Christina and Franz Netzl in their Weingut Netzl in Carnuntum, Austria

The American Art of Joanne Roberts Wittauer and the Austrian Wines of Klaus Wittauer– A Taste of Art and Wines at the Curious Grape in Shirlington in the Washington DC Area, USA

 “Wine Ambassador” Klaus Wittauer Presented Austrian Wines at the Embassy of Austria in Washington DC, USA

Visiting Leo Hillinger, Michael Hoeffken and Edgar Brutler at the Leo Hillinger Winery in Jois, Austria

Leo Hillinger Wines and Alsatian Food with Hillinger’s Michael Hoeffken and Chef Jacques E. Haeringer at L’Auberge Chez François in Virginia, USA

At the Forefront of Biodynamic Winemaking: Visiting Werner and Angela Michlits and their Weingut Meinklang in Austria

Martin Mittelbach from the "Tegernseehof" and Klaus Wittauer from "KWSelection" Presented Tegernseehof Wines and Stefan Trummer and Chef Austin Fausett from “Trummer’s on Main” in Clifton Austrian Appetizers at the Austrian Embassy in Washington DC, USA




Impressions from a Gala Dinner with the German Minister of the Interior, Hans-Peter Friedrich, in Frankfurt am Main, Germany

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Pictures: Annette Schiller, Christian G.E. Schiller and Hans-Peter Friedrich, German Minister of Interior, at the Gala Dinner in Frankurt

Frankfurt am Main is a city of banks, highrises, Goethe and apple wine. More than any other city in Germany, Frankfurt’s panorama is defined by its famous high-rise skyline. As the Main metropolis is one of the leading financial centres in Europe, many banks have built some extraordinary skyscrapers in the city centre. The Rothschild Empire has its origins in Frankfurt. Frankfurt is also a cultural center - Johann Wolfgang von Goethe was borne in Frankfurt.

See:
German Winemakers in the World: The German Roots of the Baron Philippe de Rothschild Empire

I grew up with apple wine in Frankfurt am Main, Germany. Although there are 3 beer breweries in Frankfurt and the world renowned Rheingau and Rheinhessen wine regions just 30 minutes away from Frankfurt by S-Bahn or car, I would say that Frankfurt am Main is a city of cider. Most of the apple wine is consumed at a traditional apple wine tavern (Apfelweinwirtschaft). Frankfurt has a large number of traditional apple wine taverns, where you sit on communal benches, eat hearty local food and drink sour and tart German apple wine.

See:
Apple Wine in Frankfurt am Main, Germany and Cider in the World
Schiller's Favorite Apple Wine Taverns in Frankfurt am Main, Germany

My wife Annette and I had the great honour to be invited to a Gala Dinner at the Hotel Hessischer Hof by the Deutsche Tafelkultur e.V. (German Dining Culture Association). Guest of Honour was the German Minister of Interior, Dr. Hans-Peter Friedrich, accompagnied by his wife.

Reception

Picture: At the Reception

Pictures: Charming Sekt Pourers

Pictures: Annette and Christian Schiller with Minister Hans-Peter Friedrich

The Dinner

Pictures: Gala Dinner

Picture: Minister Friedrich Speaking

Pictures: Dinner Show

Picture: The Hotel Hessischer Hof Culinary Crew

Pictures: A Long Evening

Pictures: After dinner drinks at Jimmy's, the best bar in town. Jimmy's is the hotel bar of the Hessischer Hof.

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Apple Wine Tavern Zur Buchscheer in Frankfurt am Main, Germany – The Traditional Way: Apple Wine Made on the Premises

Apple Wine in Frankfurt am Main, Germany and Cider in the World

Schiller's Favorite Apple Wine Taverns in Frankfurt am Main, Germany

An Apple Wine Tavern as Traditional as can be in Frankfurt am Main: “Zu den 3 Steubern” of Wolfgang Wagner, Germany

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Impressions from the Apple Wine Festival 2013 in Frankfurt am Main, Germany

Impressions from the Rheingau Wine Festival in Wiesbaden, Germany (2013)

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Picture: Achim von Oettinger, Weingut Detlev Ritter und Edler von Oettinger, Eltville-Erbach,  Michael Staedter, Weingut Chat Sauvage, Johannisberg, and Christian G.E. Schiller

For more than 30 years, the Rheingau Wine Festival, which was once initiated by the winegrowers of the Rheingau Region as an promotional event, has turned the centre of Wiesbaden into the "longest wine bar in the world" - and represents an attraction for more than ten thousand visitors. At about 100 stands, winegrowers present their wines and bubbly sparkling wines in the second half of August for about 10 days. To go with the special flavours of the Rheingau Riesling wines, culinary delicacies may be purchased at the Wiesbaden Schlossplatz, at the Dern’sches Gelände and on the square in front of the "Market Church - Marktkirche". Moreover, music bands and other show acts provide entertainment on a number of stages and make this Wiesbaden street festival unforgettable.

Pictures: Dorothea Ottesen, Johanna Ottesen and Annette Schiller at the Rheingau Wine Festival in Wiesbaden, Germany

This year, I had the pleasure to enjoy the wines from the Rheingau with my granddaughter Johanna and her mother and my daughter Dorothea Ottesen, along with my wife Annette Schiller and our friend Andre Jacoby.

The Rheingau

It is remarkable: For its entire length of nearly 560 miles, the Rhine flows north with one exception – a 28-mile stretch where the river changes its course. Here, it flows to the west, thereby enabling both the river and the vineyards facing it to bask in the warmth of the sun all day long. This is the Rheingau, one of the medium-size German wine regions. It is a quietly beautiful region, rich in tradition. Queen Victoria's enthusiasm for Hochheim's wines contributed to their popularity in England, where they, and ultimately, Rhine wines in general, were referred to as Hock.

Picture: The Rheingau

The third President of the USA - and notable bon viveur - Thomas Jefferson visited the Rheingau in 1788 and wrote that the wine of the "Abbaye of Johnsberg is the best made on the Rhine without comparison … That of the year 1775 is the best." He also referred to the Rheingau’s Riesling as the "small and delicate Rhysslin which grows only from Hochheim to Rudesheim". Impressed by the quality of the Rheingau Riesling wines, he bought 100 grapevines to take back to his estate in Virginia.

Pictures: Gunter Kuenstler, Weingut Kuenstler and Annette Schiller, Ombiasy Wine Tours

See:
The Wines of Franz Kuenstler from Hochheim, Rheingau, Germany
Ombiasy Wine Tours: Wine and Culture Tour to Germany Coming up in August 2013

Although the Rheingau is one of Germany’s smaller wine-growing regions, its 3,100 ha (7,660 acres) of vineyards are vastly diverse in their geological makeup. The soil varies from stony slate at the western part near the villages of Assmannshausen and Rudesheim to loess, sand and marl in the lower central villages of Geisenheim, Johannisberg, Winkel, Oestrich and Hattenheim. Soil reverts to stony phyllite in the higher central and eastern villages of Hallgarten, Kiedrich and Hochheim. Generally, wines from the lower slopes where the soil is heavier—sandy loam and loess—produce fuller wines, while at the higher slopes where it is more stony and slatey, the wines reflect more minerality, elegance and concentration.

Pictures: Mark Barth, Wein- und Sektgut Norbert Barth in Hattenheim

See:
Barth Primus is Germany’s First Sekt Made with an Erstes Gewaechs Wine

The Rheingau enjoys a distinctly continental climate with cold winters and warm, but not hot, summers. The Rheingau is dominated by Riesling, accounting for 4/5 of the vineyard area. Pinot Noir accounts for 1/10 and is concentrated around Assmannshausen.

Erstes Gewaechs and Grosses Gewaechs Wines

An ultra-premium German dry wine can be labeled differently, depending on who has made the wine. Basically, you have to distinguish between 6 groups of winemakers and thus labelings: (1) The VDP non-Rheingau winemakers, (2) the VDP Rheingau winemakers, (3) the Rheingau non-VDP winemakers, (4) the zero classification winemakers, (5) the own classification winemakers and (6) all other winemakers.

Pictures: At the Booth of the Weingut George Mueller Stiftung

See:
A Combination of Extraordinary Wine and Art: Peter Winter's Georg Mueller Stiftung Estate in Germany

Rheingau: Erstes Gewaechs

The Rheingau introduced a few years ago the concept of Erste Lage. These are the best vineyards in the Rheingau. Any Rheingau winemaker, who owns an Erste Lage vineyard and who makes a top dry wine that passes the test of various regulations can name this wine an Erstes Gewaechs. Thus: Erstes Gewaechs wines are top dry wines from top vineyards (Erste Lage) in the Rheingau.

Pictures: Ulrich Allendorf and his Wines

See:
Lighting and the Flavor of Wine - With Winemaker Ulrich Allendorf in his Aroma Vineyard and Color Room at Weingut Allendorf in Oestrich Winkel, Rheingau, Germany

VDP.Grosses Gewaechs

Then came the VDP - the association of German elite winemakers - into the game and introduced the concept of Grosses Gewaechs. A Grosses Gewaechs is a top dry wine from the very best vineyards of the VDP members, which had been named Erste Lage until recently and, starting with the 2012 vintage, have been named Grosse Lage. Note, that for some legal reasons, the VDP has started to use the suffix VDP.

Pictures: Weingut Balthasar Ress

See:
Hanging out with Rheingau Winemakers: Dirk Wuertz, Desiree Eser, Alexander Jakob Jung, Hansi Bausch and Christian Ress in Hattenheim, Rheingau, Germany

Picture: German Minister of Foreign Affairs, Guido Westerwelle, with Stefan Ress at the Wine Festival in Wiesbaden

Rheingau: VDP.Grosses Gewaechs and Erstes Gewaechs

Until recently, the VDP winemakers in the Rheingau did not go along with their VDP colleagues in other regions, but they went along with their non-VDP colleagues in the Rheingau: They called their best dry wines Erstes Gewaechs. Thus, until recently, the top dry wines of VDP members in the Rheingau were called Erstes Gewaeachs, while the rest of the VDP members in the other wine regions called their top dry wines Grosses Gewaechs.

Pictures: Achim von Oettinger, Weingut Detlev Ritter und Edler von Oettinger, Eltville-Erbach,  Michael Staedter, Weingut Chat Sauvage, Johannisberg, Annette Schiller and Christian G.E. Schiller

See also:
Weingut Chat Sauvage – Bourgogne in the Middle of the Rheingau: Meeting Chat Sauvage’s Winemaker and General Manager Michael Staedter, Germany

This changed with the 2012 vintage. The VDP winemakers from the Rheingau switched fronts and decided to call their best dry wines Grosses Gewaechs. So, there is now uniformity on the VDP front.

Pictures: After Party Drinks at the Balthasar Ress Wine Bar in Wiesbaden

But as a consequence, there is no longer uniformity in the Rheingau: There are now two denominations for the top dry wines in the Rheingau - VDP.Grosses Gewaechs (VDP members) and Erstes Gewaechs (non-VDP members). Roughly 90% of the top dry wines in the Rheingau are VDP.Grosses Gewaechs and 10% Erstes Gewaechs.

schiller-wine - Related Postings

“Hoffest” (Winery Party) at Weingut Heinrich Baison in Hochheim, Rheingau - Best of Riesling 2010 Award Winner

Visiting Weingut Josef Leitz in Ruedesheim – Johannes Leitz is Germany’s Winemaker of the Year, Gault Millau WeinGuide 2011

When Americans Drink German Wine - What They Choose

German Wine Basics: Sugar in the Grape - Alcohol and Sweetness in the Wine

Christian G.E. Schiller Leads Tasting of US-American Wines in Hochheim, Germany

Hanging out with Rheingau Winemakers: Dirk Wuertz, Desiree Eser, Alexander Jakob Jung, Hansi Bausch and Christian Ress in Hattenheim, Rheingau, Germany

Visiting Wilhelm Weil at his Weingut Robert Weil in Kiedrich, Germany

Tasting with Wilhelm Weil the 2010 Weingut Weil Wines in Kiedrich, Germany

Stepping up: From 3 … to 4 Quality Levels - The New Classification of the VDP, Germany

VDP.Grosses Gewaechs, Erstes Gewaechs, Spaetlese/Auslese Trocken, … Labeling Dry Ultra-Premium Wines in Germany

German Wine Basics: Sugar in the Grape - Alcohol and Sweetness in the Wine

German Spaetlese Wines Can Come in Different Versions. I Have Counted Five.

When Americans Drink German Wine - What They Choose

Approaches to Classifying German Wine: The Standard Approach (the Law of 1971), the VDP Approach and the Zero Classification Approach

Video: How to Pronounce German Wine - Simon Woods' Enhanced Version

Germany's VDP Wine Estates Celebrate 100th Anniversary in Berlin

The VDP - the Powerful Group of German Elite Winemakers - Refines its Classification System, Germany

The Karthäuserhof in the Mosel Valley: An Eventful History – From Grenoble in France to New York City in the US

Visiting Weingut Josef Leitz in Ruedesheim – Johannes Leitz is Germany’s Winemaker of the Year, Gault Millau WeinGuide 2011

German Wine Basics: Sugar in the Grape - Alcohol and Sweetness in the Wine

JJ Pruem Goes Supermarket: Meeting Katharina Pruem and Tasting the Incredible JJ Pruem Wines at Wegmans

1st International Riesling Symposium, Rheingau, Germany

The Wines of Franz Kuenstler from Hochheim, Rheingau, Germany

Ombiasy Wine Tours: Wine and Culture Tour to Germany Coming up in August 2013

Riesling, Pinot Noir and Indian Cuisine: A tête-à-tête Dinner with Winemaker Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at Rasika in Washington DC, USA

Barth Primus is Germany’s First Sekt Made with an Erstes Gewaechs Wine

A Combination of Extraordinary Wine and Art: Peter Winter's Georg Mueller Stiftung Estate in Germany

Lighting and the Flavor of Wine - With Winemaker Ulrich Allendorf in his Aroma Vineyard and Color Room at Weingut Allendorf in Oestrich Winkel, Rheingau, Germany

Hanging out with Rheingau Winemakers: Dirk Wuertz, Desiree Eser, Alexander Jakob Jung, Hansi Bausch and Christian Ress in Hattenheim, Rheingau, Germany

Weingut Chat Sauvage – Bourgogne in the Middle of the Rheingau: Meeting Chat Sauvage’s Winemaker and General Manager Michael Staedter, Germany




Maryland Crabs Rank Second Among America's Most Iconic Foods, USA

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Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Chef Jeff Black, Winner of the 2013 Maryland Crab Cake Competition, for more, see: Crab Cakes: Jeff Black from Black Salt and Chris Clime from PassionFish win the 8th Annual Crab Cake Competition in Washington DC, USA

Maryland crabs rank as one of America's most iconic foods. I know Maryland crabs are an iconic local food, and apparently the rest of the country agrees. Last year in May, wine guru and Maryland resident Robert J. Parker tweeted: “Maryland’s greatest culinary delicacy – blue channel soft-shelled crabs are starting to arrive … lightly floured and sautéed in butter.” Maryland – with the large Chesapeake Bay – is indeed blessed with Blue Crabs which came in different forms, when you eat them at a Crab Shack.

Maryland crabs ranked second in the USA Today’s 2013 10Best Readers’ Choice Travel Awards for best American iconic foods. The top 10 were chosen from a list of 20 iconic foods and narrowed down through 24,000 votes.

Here’s the full list:

Albuquerque, N.M. — green chile sauce
Baltimore — Maryland crabs
Wisconsin — fried cheese curds
Memphis, Tenn. — pulled pork
Philadelphia — Philly cheese steak
Charleston, S.C. — shrimp and grits
Chicago — Italian beef sandwich
Indianapolis — pork tenderloin sandwich
New Orleans — boiled crawfish
Key West, Fla. — Key lime pie

Maryland Blue Crabs

The blue crab is a crustacean found in the waters of the western Atlantic Ocean, the Pacific Coast of Central America and the Gulf of Mexico. Chesapeake Bay Blue Crabs undergo a seasonal migration; after mating, the female crab travels to the southern portion of the Chesapeake, fertilizing her eggs with sperm stored up from the last mating months or almost a year later. In November or December, the female crab releases her eggs. The crabs hatch in a larval form and float in the mouth of the bay for four to five weeks, then the juvenile crabs make their way back up into the bay.

Four Ways to Eat Chesapeake Blue Crabs

Hard Shell Blue Crabs

Blue crabs are most often eaten in the hard shell. Steaming them in large pots with water, vinegar and seasoning is the norm on the East coast. You need the whole experience: the smell of steamed crabs in the air, a pile of large steamed blue crabs covered with Old Bay Seasoning, ready to be cracked with wooden mallets, accompanied by corn on the cob, plus a roll of paper towels and a metal bucket for tossing the empty shells.

Picture: Hard Shell Blue Crabs

Soft Shell Crabs

The Chesapeake Bay is famous for its soft-shell blue crabs. As crabs grow larger, their shells cannot expand, so they molt the exteriors and have a soft covering for a matter of days when they are vulnerable and considered usable. Crabs caught just after molting are prepared as soft shell crabs: first cutting out the gills, face, and guts; the crab is then battered in flour, egg, and seasoning, then fried in oil until crispy. The entire crab is consumed, legs and all.

Picture: Soft Shell Crab

Crab Cake

Crab cakes is another delicacy. Crab Cakes are basically Hamburgers made out of crab meat. We ate it recently as a starter with tomatoes and avocado on the side.

Picture: Maryland Crab Cake

See more:
Wine and Crab Cakes: Amy Brandwein from Casa Nonna and Chris Clime from PassionFish win the 6th Annual Crab Cake Competition in Washington DC, USA

Maryland Crab Soup

Usually I start my crab dinner with a Maryland Crab Soup. This is a kind of an Italian Minestrone with crab meat.

Pictures: Annette Schiller, Ombiasy Wine Tours, eating Maryland Crab Soup

See more:
Maryland Crabs and Wine
Schiller's World of Seafood

Maryland Crab Houses

The best places to eat Maryland crabs is a Crab House. Bluecrab.info: “My definition of a crab house is any restaurant that serves hot steamed Maryland-style hard shell crabs. You know that you're in a crab house as soon as you walk through the door, the smell of steamed crabs is in the air and you hear the sound of wooden mallets banging against crab and table as hungry diners crack into the succulent claws. As you look around you see paper-covered tables with trays of cooked bright orange crabs, mounds of discarded shells, pitchers of ice cold beer, shakers of Old Bay seafood seasoning, and bottles of apple cider vinegar. And, yes, there's the occasional basket of piping hot shell-on spiced shrimp! Ah, the memories... there's nothing quite like the atmosphere of a genuine Chesapeake Bay crab house."

Here is my list of favorite crab houses:
Schiller’s Favorite Crab Houses in the Washington DC Region, USA

Maryland Wine

Blue crabs are iconic in Maryland. Few food and wine aficiniados, however, would point to premium wines, when talking about Maryland; instead, Maryland has the reputation of being a mediocre wine producer. But Maryland winemakers are very successfully changing that. Increasingly, winemakers in Maryland are moving away from fruit wines and non-European grape varieties that have long plagued the East Coast to produce wines that can compete with the best wines in the world. As Drew Baker of the brand-new Old Westminster Winery explained to Frank Morgan, a popular wine blogger, “Maryland has great potential and I believe that the quality bar is rising quickly. Soon, poorly made wines will be the exception in an otherwise great region.” Old Westminster Winery, led by the three siblings Drew, Lisa, and Ashli, who manage the vineyard, winemaking, and marketing, respectively, has not yet released any wine, but is already generating a buzz. Other promising newcomers include Black Ankle, Slack, Sugar Loaf Mountain and Port of Leonardtown. Add to that the Maryland classics Boordy, Basignani and Elk Run, which are in the process of changing gears.

Maryland’s modern wine history dates to the 1970s, but grapes have been planted in the area since the 17th century. Most of Maryland’s 60 plus wineries are in the Piedmont Plateau in central Maryland, but grapes also thrive in the Eastern Shore, Southern Plain, and Western Mountains: (1) A majority of the state’ vineyards are planted in Piedmont Plateau in central Maryland. (2) The Chesapeake Bay has always been among my favorite regions, but the Eastern Shore is also a fantastic growing region. The soil is sandy and well-drained, and the climate is moderated/protected by the water, perfect for warm days and cool nights. (3) In the Southern Plain in southern Maryland it can get rather hot. And stay hot during the night. Barbera, Sangiovese, and Chardonnay dominate. (4) Western Maryland is mountainous, and while there are only two wineries, there is a number of vineyards.

I have written extensively about a number of Maryland wineries, see:
At the Fifth Annual Drink Local Wine Conference in Baltimore, Maryland, USA
Touring Wine Country Maryland, USA
Grand Tasting of Maryland Wines and Twitter Taste-off - Drink Local Wine Conference 2013 in Maryland, USA

schiller-wine: Related Postings

Schiller’s Favorite Crab Houses in the Washington DC Region, USA

At the Fifth Annual Drink Local Wine Conference in Baltimore, Maryland, USA

Grand Tasting of Maryland Wines and Twitter Taste-off - Drink Local Wine Conference 2013 in Maryland, USA

Touring Wine Country Maryland, USA

Wine and Crab Cakes: Amy Brandwein from Casa Nonna and Chris Clime from PassionFish win the 6th Annual Crab Cake Competition in Washington DC, USA

Maryland Crabs and Wine

Schiller's World of Seafood

Chef Spike Gjerde's Farm-to-Table Food of Woodberry Kitchen and Sarah O’Herron's and Ed Boyce's Premium Organic Wines of Black Ankle Vineyards, Maryland, USA

Crab Cakes: Jeff Black from Black Salt and Chris Clime from PassionFish win the 8th Annual Crab Cake Competition in Washington DC, USA

Boordy Vineyards in Maryland - A Profile, USA

Black Ankle Vineyards in Maryland - A Profile, USA

Sugarloaf Mountain Vineyard in Maryland - A Profile, USA

America 100 Most Influential Winemakers (2013)

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Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Randall Grahm in San Francisco

The US is the largest wine market in the world. Americans consume more wine than any other country (311 million cases of wine in 2011) in the world. France, Italy and Germany came very close, with each market accounting for around 300 million cases of wine per year.

Whereas France and Italy have a high (and declining) per capita consumption, as does Germany, although a bit lower, the US consumes very little per capita (only a bit more than 10 liters), but there are a large number of American consumers. In addition, American wine consumption per capita is growing.

Here is a list of the 100 most influential winemakers in the USA, compiled by IntoWine.

(See also for a similar list: Top 100 Most Influential People in the U.S. Wine Industry– The 2012 IntoWine.com List)

100-Helen Keplinger

99-Hardy Wallace

98-Bryan Ulbrich

97-Craig Kritzer

96-Abe Schroner

95-Ron Bitner

94-Garrit Stoltz

93-Paul Sloan

92-Steve Doerner

91-Jared and Tracey Brandt with their Donkey and Goat Winery in downtown Berkeley; they are proponents of natural wine making, i.e. minimal intervention.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Jared Brandt in Berkeley

See also:
Visiting Jared Brandt and his Donkey & Goat Winery– Natural Wines Made in Berkeley, California
The Natural Wines of the Donkey and Goat Winery in Berkeley, California

90-Daniel Daou

89-Tony Kooyumjian of Augusta Winery in Missouri had a major role in having Augusta declared the very first AVA in 1980.

Picture: Christian G.E.Schiller with Tony Kooyumjian at Montelle Winery

See also:
In the Oldest AVA - American Viticultural Area - Augusta in Missouri
French American Hybrid Grapes - Vidal Blanc, Seyval Blanc and Others
Visiting Tony Kooyumjian at Montelle Winery in Missouri 

88-Kris Kane

87-John Charito

86-Dan Lee

85-Hank Beckmeyer

84-Thomas Rivers Brown

83-Morgan Twain-Peterson

82-Clay Shannon

81-Johnathan Lachs

80-Joe Hart

79-Jordan Harris is winemaker and general manager of Tarara Winery in Leesburg, Virginia. While many of Virginia’s vintners are concentrating their efforts on the sure sellers like Bordeaux-style blends and Chardonnay (which frankly don’t show well here) Harris champions varieties that are often overlooked. Pushing the boundaries of his various blends, Harris is blazing trails in the state with bottlings like his blends of Tannat, Petit Verdot and Pinotage; and a white wine mix of Viognier, Roussanne, and Petit Manseng.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Jordan Harris,Winemaker and General Manager, Tarara Winery, Leesburg, VA

See also:
An Afternoon with Jordan Harris, Winemaker of Tarara, Virginia, USA
Vineyard Walk, Wine Tasting in the Vineyard and Lunch in the Tarara Tank Cellar with Wine Maker Jordan Harris, Tarara Winery, USA
Winemaker Jordan Harris from Tarara Winery in Virginia: One of “40 American Tastemakers under 40” (Wine Enthusiast), USA

78-Jeff Emery

77-Manfred Krankl of Sine Qua Non in Santa Barbara makes cult wine for wine nerds.

76-Caleb Foster

75-Charles Smith. A decade ago, Smith, a California native, was managing a rock band in Copenhagen when he made a career shift: Smith taught himself how to make wine by creating tiny lots of Syrah for his own K brand. Now his wines are some of Washington’s most sought-after. And Smith’s The Magnificent Wine Company wines (House Wine Red and White) and “modernist” Charles Smith Wines (The Velvet Devil Merlot, Kung Fu Girl Riesling and more) are among the best values anywhere.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Charles Smith in Woodinville

74-Ian Brand

73-Ben Smith

72-Marco Capelli

71-Stephen Bernard is the winemaker for Keswick Vineyards in Virginia.

70-Maggie Harrison

69-Joe Davis

68-Wes Hagen

67-Jon McPhearson

66-Alan Phillips

65- Lee Lutes

64-Andrew Meggitt

63-Adam LaZarre

62-Duncan Arnot Meyers and Nathan Roberts

61-Steve MacRostie

60-Andrew Quady

59-Jim Bernau

58-Kenneth Volk

57-Bob Betz

56-Steven Mirassou

55-Dan Petroski

54-Wendy Stuckey. Born and raised in Australia, Stuckey left the Barossa Valley to join Chateau Ste. Michelle as its white winemaker. Today her commitment to Riesling is as strong as ever, making eight iterations of American Riesling.

53-Christian Roguenant

52-Fred Frank manages Dr. Konstantin Frank in the Finger Lakes region in New York, and studied winemaking in Germany. As Konstantin's grandson, Fred Frank, has expanded the business tenfold, working closely with winemaker Peter Weis, and Dr. Frank wines are now distributed in 36 states and internationally.

See also:
German Wine Makers in the World: Dr. Konstantin Frank (USA)

51-Jeff Meier

50-Dave Ramey

49-Greg Harrington

48-Cameron Hughes is a wine négociant. He does not own a vineyard or a winery but outsources all the labor that goes into making a bottle of wine; growing the grapes, crushing and fermenting them.

47-Ehren Jordan

46-Tony Soter

45-Neil Collins of Tablas Creek Paso Robles legally imported Rhône grape varieties from France, propagating them in a nursery at the winery after they were released from quarantine. The availability of this new vine material helped raise the quality of Rhône grapes in the U.S., and wineries all over the country are growing the so-called Tablas Creek Vineyard Selections in their vineyards.

See also:
Tablas Creek Wines from Paso Robles and Belgian Food at Brasserie Beck with Tablas Greek GM Jason Haas and Chef Robert Wiedmaier in Washington DC, USA 

44-Milla Handley

43-Gary Eberle has earned the title, the “grandfather of Paso Robles wine.”

42-Elias Fernandez

41-Daryl Groom

40-Lynne Penner

39-Richard Sanford

38-Celia Welch

37-Steve Matthiasson

36-Aaron Pott

35-John Williams

34-Mike Benziger leads one of the most prominent and one of the last in-tact families in the wine industry. Based in Sonoma, the 30-year old Benziger Family Winery is widely known for their pioneering exploration and practice of biodynamic, organic and sustainable agriculture and grape growing.

See also:
Benziger Wines Served at the 2010 “Green” Annual White House Correspondents Dinner

33-Chris Camarda

32-Bob Cabral

31-Gary Farrell

30-Kris Curran

29-Rick Small

28-Mark Aubert

27-Stephane Derenoncourt is a self-taught winemaker who continues to spread his wings as a consultant, with projects in Italy, Spain, Chile, China, India, Turkey, Lebanon and Bordeaux. He consults for Francis Ford Coppola’s Rubicon in California and now makes a cool-climate, high-altitude Napa range of wines under his own name.

See also:
Bordeaux Meets Virginia: Tasting Through Recent Vintages at Boxwood Winery in Virginia: With Anne Cuvelier from Chateau Leoville - Poyferre, Annette Schiller from Wine Tours by Ombiasy and Boxwood Winery General Manager Rachel Martin, USA
Boxwood Winery in Virginia: Lunch with Wine Makers Rachel Martin and Adam McTaggert in the Chai between the Tanks – TasteCamp 2012 East Kick-Off, USA

26-Karl Wente

25-Genevieve Janssens

24-Dan Karlsen

23-Bob Lindquist

22-Jim Clenenden of Au Bon Climat in Santa Barbara has cultivated an international reputation for Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc, and Pinot Gris. Clenenden was on Robert Parker's short list of Best Wineries in the World, and he was selected by Oz Clark in as one of 50 worldwide creators of Modern Classic Wines.

21-Bob Levy

20-Kim McPhearson

19-Justin Smith

18-Paul Dolan

17-Joel Peterson

16-Sean Thackery

15-Greg LaFollette

14-Carol Shelton

13-Peter Mondavi, Jr. along with patriarch Peter Mondavi, Sr., heads up the flourishing Charles Krug Winery and CK Mondavi Family Vineyards. Amidst corporate buy-outs up and down the Napa Valley, Mondavi has been determined to keep Charles Krug in the family, and to preserve the 850 estate vineyards, farming them sustainably. Additionally he has helped preserve the historical legacy of wine in the Napa Valley by refurbishing the original buildings on the property, thus maintaining one of the oldest wineries in California, all the while maintaining an incredible level of quality.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Peter Mondavi jun.

See also:
Morton’s Steakhouse Presented Peter Mondavi Jr. at a Charles Krug Winemaker Dinner

12-Cathy Corison

11-Randall Grahm planned to make the first great American Pinot Noir. Instead he introduced American consumers wine other than Cabernet and Chardonnay. His Le Cigare Volant proved it was possible to craft and sell great Rhône wine blends from California before anyone really knew what they were. His marketing antics still defies and at times defines the pretentious approach, such as when he held a funeral for the Cork in 2002. Grahm, a longtime proponent of biodynamic viticulture, downsized his production in 2006 to focus on small estate wines.

See also:
Bumping into Randall Grahm in San Francisco, Owner of famed Bonny Doon Vineyard in Santa Cruz in California, USA

10-Mia Klein

9-Robert Foley

8-Heley Turley.

7-Gina Gallo: With over 24 wine brands, and over 70 millions cases of wine produced and tens of thousands of acres of grapes, E. & J. Gallo Winery is the world's largest family-owned winery and the largest exporter of California wine. Gina Gallo is winemaker, spokesperson and all around wine supporter.

6-Heidi Barrett

5-Paul Hobbs is owner and winemaker for Paul Hobbs Winery, CrossBarn Winery and Vina Cobos in Mendoza. Paul is a pioneer in this industry, from having a hand in the discovery of Malbec’s potential in Argentina, to venturing into regions such as Hungary, Armenia, Uruguay and Cahors.

4-Robert Trinchero

3-Paul Draper

2-Merry Edwards

1-Phillipe Melka

See also:
Allan Shoup’s and Gilles Nicault’s Long Shadow Wines from Washington State, USA

schiller-wine: Related Postings

Morton’s Steakhouse Presented Peter Mondavi Jr. at a Charles Krug Winemaker Dinner

Allan Shoup’s and Gilles Nicault’s Long Shadow Wines from Washington State, USA

Bordeaux Meets Virginia: Tasting Through Recent Vintages at Boxwood Winery in Virginia: With Anne Cuvelier from Chateau Leoville - Poyferre, Annette Schiller from Wine Tours by Ombiasy and Boxwood Winery General Manager Rachel Martin, USA

Boxwood Winery in Virginia: Lunch with Wine Makers Rachel Martin and Adam McTaggert in the Chai between the Tanks – TasteCamp 2012 East Kick-Off, USA

Bumping into Randall Grahm in San Francisco, Owner of famed Bonny Doon Vineyard in Santa Cruz in California, USA

Benziger Wines Served at the 2010 “Green” Annual White House Correspondents Dinner

Top 100 Most Influential People in the U.S. Wine Industry– The 2012 IntoWine.com List

China's Wine Boom: Is Jeannie Cho Lee the New Robert Parker?

The Forbes List of Rich People and Wine

The Emerging Wine Giant China - Mouton Cadet Bar Opening

Trends in the global wine market: old world, new world, emerging wine countries

When Americans Drink German Wine - What They Choose

The Size and the Structure of the German Wine Industry

A Global View: Who Makes and who Drinks Wine?

Wine Consumption by Country: Total and Per Capita

Top 100 Most Influential People in the U.S. Wine Industry – The 2011 IntoWine.com List

Top 100 Global Wine Tweeters - 2013

Decanter 2011 Wine Power List: I am – With my Fellow Amateur Wine Bloggers Around the World – # 16 on the List

Visiting Jared Brandt and his Donkey & Goat Winery– Natural Wines Made in Berkeley, California

The Natural Wines of the Donkey and Goat Winery in Berkeley, California

In the Oldest AVA - American Viticultural Area - Augusta in Missouri

French American Hybrid Grapes - Vidal Blanc, Seyval Blanc and Others

Visiting Tony Kooyumjian at Montelle Winery in Missouri

Winemaker Jordan Harris from Tarara Winery in Virginia: One of “40 American Tastemakers under 40” (Wine Enthusiast), USA 

An Afternoon with Jordan Harris, Winemaker of Tarara, Virginia, USA

Vineyard Walk, Wine Tasting in the Vineyard and Lunch in the Tarara Tank Cellar with Wine Maker Jordan Harris, Tarara Winery, USA

Tablas Creek Wines from Paso Robles and Belgian Food at Brasserie Beck with Tablas Greek GM Jason Haas and Chef Robert Wiedmaier in Washington DC, USA 

German Wine Makers in the World: Dr. Konstantin Frank (USA)

4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle: International Tasting Beyond Dry Riesling, USA

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Picture: International Tasting - Beyond Dry Riesling, led by Tim Atkin

The world of Riesling returned to Seattle in Washington State. The attraction was the 4th Riesling Rendezvous, a gathering of Riesling producers and enthusiasts from around the world.

Riesling Rendezvous is sponsored by Chateau Ste. Michelle, the Washington State giant wine producer and Weingut Dr. Loosen, one of Germany’s top Riesling producers from the Mosel Valley. The famous Eroica Riesling from Washington State is a joint venture of Ste. Michelle and Dr. Loosen. Riesling Rendezvous is the largest international gathering of Riesling producers and enthusiasts in the world. It features three days of tasting, discussing and learning about Riesling.

The 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle featured 3 major tastings: First, the walk-around tasting at Chateau Stee Michelle in Woodinville with about 70 Riesling producers from all around the world pouring 4 to 6 wines each. See: The 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle: Impressions from the Grand Tasting at Chateau Ste. Michelle in Woodinville, Washington State, USA Second, the seated international blind tasting with 20 wines falling into the dry category. See: International Tasting at the 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle, USA - Dry Riesling Third, the seated international blind tasting with 20 wines falling into the beyond dry category. The postings provides an account of the blind tasting of 20 beyond dry wines.

This posting is part of a series of a dozen or so postings on the 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle. I have posted so far:

Austria at the 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle, USA
International Tasting at the 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle, USA - Dry Riesling
The German Winemakers at the 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle, USA
Steffen Christmann (Weingut A. Christmann) and Wilhelm Weil (Weingut Robert Weil) Presented the New Wine Classification of the VDP, Germany
Photo Album: 4th Riesling Rendezvous (2013) in Seattle, Washington State, USA
The 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle: Impressions from the Grand Tasting at Chateau Ste. Michelle in Woodinville, Washington State, USA
The World of Riesling in Seattle - Fourth Riesling Rendezvous in Washington State, USA

Coming Up in July: 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle, Washington State, USA
The German Winemakers at the Forthcoming 4. Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle, Washington State, USA

Pictures: Picture: Helmut and Mrs. Doennhoff and others at the International Tasting - Riesling Beyond Dry

Weinrallye # 66: Raetsel im Wein/Wein im Raetsel - Mystery in a Wine/Wine in a Mystery

This posting is being published as part of the Weinrallye, a monthly blog event in Germany. Participating wine bloggers - mainly in Germany - are all releasing postings today under the heading "Raetsel im Wein/Wein im Raetsel - Mystery in a Wine/Wine in a Mystery". Weinrallye is the brainchild of Thomas Lippert, a winemaker and wine blogger based in Heidelberg, Germany. This month's wine rally is organized by Peter Zuehig.

Picture: Weinrallye

This posting provides an overview of one of the 2 major blind tastings at 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle.  Blind tasting means identifying a mystery wine. Well, we all knew that we had a Riesling in the glass, but our knowledge ended there. Was it a new World Wine or an Old World Wine that we had in the glass? Oregon, Finger Lakes, Australia or Austria, Mosel, Rheinhessen? It was surprising to see how lost and wrong the panelists and all the other tasters (including myself) often where.

The Panelists

On Tuesday, July 16, the day began with another fascinating blind tasting of 20 Rieslings, this time off-dry and sweet Rieslings from around the world, moderated by London-based wine journalist Tim Atkin, a Master of Wine.

Here is how the tasting went. The tasting was orchestrated by US Wine Journalist. For each wine, he would first ask one of 6 panel members to say something about the wine. In particular, the panel expert was expected to guess where the wine might come from. Fir some wines, other panel experts also provided their opinion. Then he might turn to the tasters and ask for a show of hands, if, mostly, the wine was new world or old world. Then, the identity of the wine was revelealed and the winemaker or owner was asked to provide some comments.

In general, it was a mazing how off the panel experts sometimes were in terms of their assessment. Also, the how of hands often revealed a stark division among the 300 tasters. Overall, the new world wines held up very well with the heavy weights from Germany and Austria.

Pictures: The Panelists

International Tasting Beyond Dry Riesling

Maximin Gruenhaus (Mosel)

2011 Gruenhaeuser Abtsberg Riesling Superior
13.9 g/L RS

Bob Bertheau: white peach, orange on the nose, lots of layers, New World wine, possibly Washington State.

Carl von Schubert: fermented with natural yeast, hands-off winemaking approach, we accepted the result when the fermentation stopped.

See also:
Carl von Schubert from the Maximin Gruenhaus Estate Returned a Favor: With his Wines in Washington DC (and in Seattle), USA


Frankland Estate (Australia)

2011 SmithCullam Riesling
18 g/L RS

Marnie Old: I enjoyed the wine, acidity is the dominant factor, a bit aged, sharp herbal notes, leads me to New Zealand or Canada, but low level of alcohol leads me to the Saar.

Hunter Smith: we let it ferment wild and we stop the fermentation by cooling it down.


Flat Rock Cellars (Canada)

2012 Riesling
22 g/L RS

Bob Pailinski: Impressed by the clarity, the fruit is very good, high level of acidity, put it in the New World, perhaps Michigan.

Jay Johnston: Flat Rock Cellars farms 27 hectares of vineyard on the Niagara Peninsula region.


Reichsgraf von Kesselstadt (Mosel)

Angelo Pavan: Excellent wine, lots of complexity, very long finish, all in proportions, must be a Mosel, only Mosel can do that.

Annegret Reh-Gartner: Wine has great aging potential.

See also:
The German Winemakers at the 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle, USA 


Elesko Winery (Slovakia)

2011 Riesling "2" Semi-sweet Malorkarpatsky Region
19.5 g/L RS

Carl von Schubert: A very refreshing wine, get some raisin notes on the nose, not a European wine.


Cave Spring Cellars (Canada)

2011 Riesling CSV Estate Bottled VQA Beamsville Bench

Hunter Smith: Lovely wine, citrus notes, good acidity/sweetness balance, inclined to think that it comes from Australia or New Zealand.

Angelo Pavan: 2009 was the coldest vintage on record in Canada, definitely a wine with aging potential.


Chehalem (Oregon)

2011 Corral Creek Vineyard
21 g/L RS

Bob Bertheau: Very fruity, lovely tension of acidity and sugar, driven by acidity, crisp, Finger Lakes.


Trisaetum (Oregon)

2012 Ribbon Ridge Medium Dry Riesling
25 g/L RS

Angelo Pavan: This wine puzzles me, I got some botrytis, wine has changed over the past 30 minutes, shorter finsih now, I think it is New World, but I cannot place it, perhaps Northeast US.


Pacific Rim (Washington State)

2010 Wallula Vineyard Riesling
15 g/L RS

Bob Pauliski: Slight amount of botrytis, rather light, moderate acidity, New World, could be Finger Lakes.

Nicolas Quille, GM and Head Winemaker of Pacifc Rim, also commented.

See also:
Visiting Winemaker Steven Sealock at Pacific Rim Winemakers in Washington State, USA
Oregon Pinot Gris Symposium at Oak Knoll Winery in Hillsboro


Shady Lane Cellars (Michigan)

2011 Semi-dry Riesling
24 g/L

Carl von Schubert: Very fresh wine, young, finihes quite dry, North American wine.


Anthony Road Wine Company (Finger Lakes)

2009 Martini-Rheinhardt Selection
57.15 g/L

Marnie Old: This is a party in the glass, tropical elements, pushes on and on, stylistically I would think it is a German wine, but my guess is: New Zealand.

See also:
The Wines and the Food at President Obama’s Inauguration Luncheon, January 21, 2013, USA


Ste. Chapelle Winery (Idaho)

2011 Ste. Chapelle Winery Winemaker Riesling
33.7 g/L RS

Bob Bertheau: very fresh, vers clean, some minerality, nice long finish, my guess: Mosel.


Framingham Wines (New Zealand)

2012 F-Series Riesling Spaetlese
54 g/L RS

Hunter Smith: An amzing wine, complex, a lot of exotic characteristics, could be from the Mosel/Saar.


Chateau Ste. Michelle and Dr. Loosen

2012 Eroica Gold Riesling
75.4 g/L RS

Carl von Schubert: I feel very much at home with this wine, very elegant, very pleasant wine, a perfectly made Mosel Spaetlese.

See also:
Wine ratings: Two American/German wines - Eroica and Poet's Leap - on Top 100 Wines from Washington State list for 2009
German American Wines: (1) Pacific Rim Riesling (2) Eroica and (3) Woelffer's Schillerwein


Geheimer Rat Dr. von Bassermann-Jordan

2011 Deidesheimer Leinhoehle Riesling Spaetlese (Pfalz)
66.2 g/L

Marnie Old: Rich, opulent on the palate, so many possibilities where this wine could be from, perhaps from the Rheingau.

Gunther Hauck.

See also:
The German Winemakers at the 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle, USA 


Leitz (Rheingau)

2004 Ruedesheimer Berg Roseneck Spaetlese
82,5 g/L RS

Bob Bertheau: Wonderful texture, I enjoyed the wine very much, may be 10 years old, New World effort, not much botrytis.

See also:
Visiting Weingut Josef Leitz in Ruedesheim – Johannes Leitz is Germany’s Winemaker of the Year, Gault Millau WeinGuide 2011


Doennhoff (Nahe)

2003 Niederhaeuser Herrmannshoehle Riesling Spaetlese
75 g/L

Hunter Smith: Nicely balanced, fresh, a great wine.

Helmut Doennhoff: 2003 was the hottest vintage in my life - without botrytis.

Top 10 Riesling Producers in the World– Snooth 2012 


Fritz Haag (Mosel)

2003 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese

Angelo: Not as expressive on the nose as the prvious wine, on the palate: oh my good, good balance, this has to be an Auslese from the Mosel, will live forever.

See also:
The German Winemakers at the 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle, USA 


Chateau Ste. Michelle (Washington State)

2011 Ethos Late Harvest Riesling
238 g/L

Marnie Old: Significant jump in terms of sweetness, so decadent, we have botrytis, lovely wine, I think it is an Old World wine, maybe Austria


Sheldrake Point Winery (Finger Lakes)

2010 Riesling Icewine
283 g/L

Bob Bertheau: Stunning, honey, has some age, a wine that can last forever, has some minerality to it, guess: Rheingau

Dave Breeden.


The 20 Wines

At the end, a summary table of the 20 wines we tasted blind, was provided.


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The 2013 Decanter Wine Power List

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Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Olivier Bernard of Domaine de Chevalier in Washington DC. Olivier Bernard is also the President of the UGCB and #40 on the 2013 Decanter Wine Power List

When the British Wine Journal Decanter released the Decanter Wine Power List 2011 – the 50 most influential people in the wine world – I was very surprised (and pleased) to find myself - with my fellow bloggers around the world – on the list: the Amateur Wine Blogger made its first appearance at number 16. This year, the Amateur Wine Blogger is no longer listed.

Vendredi du Vin #57: Des Vins Super-héroïques - Des Vignerons Super-héroïques (Super-heroic Wines - Super-heroic Winemakers)

This posting is being published as part of the Vendredis du Vin, a monthly blog event in France. Participating wine bloggers - mainly in France - are all releasing postings today under the same heading. This month's Vendredi du Vin is orchestrated byTom Delanoue from Reims: "C’est donc avec grand plaisir que je vous propose de plancher sur ce thème des vins super-héroïques pour les vendredis du vin des mois de juillet/août 2013. Est-ce que pour vous une bouteille est un super-héros à part entière ? Ou peut-être un vigneron ? A moins que vous ne soyez convaincu que le héros de votre enfance – fût-t’il Super Dupont – a une bouteille préférée… Bref, faites vous plaisir !"

I am presenting and reviewing the 2013 Decanter Wine Power List: The 50 super.heroes in the wine industry around the world.

2013 Wine Power List

Here is this year’s list.

1 Pierre Pringuet (Position 1 in 2011)
CEO, Pernod Ricard, 63 - the 60-year-old executive presides over the world’s fourth biggest wine company, Pernod Ricard, owner of brands from Champagne Mumm and Perrier-Jouet to Jacob’s Creek and New Zealand’s Brancott Estate. Pernod Ricard spans both the mass-market and premium end of the global wine market.
2 Wu Fei (8)
Chairman/general manager COFCO Wines & Spirits, 49
3 Eric de Rothschild (2)
President, Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite), 72 – he has looked after the portfolio of Domaines Barons de Rothschild for 37 years. He has shot up from number 20 3 years ago on the basis of Chateau Lafite’s huge influence in China.
4 Annette Alvarez Peters (6)
Assistant general merchandise manager for wine, spirits and beer, Costco, 51
5 Mel Dick (4)
Senior vice-president, Southern Wine & Spirits of America; vice-president of wine division, 77
6 Robert Sands (5)
Chairman, Constellation Brands, 55
7 Michel Rolland (18)
International consultant, 65
8 Aubert de Villaine (30)
Co-owner/co-director, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, 73
9 Robert Parker Jr (3)
Chairman and CEO, The Wine Advocate, 65
10 Jancis Robinson
MW OBE (10)
11 John D Watkins (–)
CEO, ASC Fine Wines (age withheld)
12 Yang Wenhua (–)
Managing director, C&D Wines, 43
13 Steven Spurrier (13)
Consultant editor, Decanter, 71
14 Bernard Arnault (11)
Chairman and CEO, Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, 64
15 Dan Jago (14)
Group wine director, Tesco, 53
16 Pierre Castel (19)
President and founder, Groupe Castel, 86
17 Gina Gallo (15)
Winemaker, E&J Gallo, 46
18 Nobutada Saji (12)
President, Suntory, 67
19 Robert Shum (17)
Founder, Aussino World Wines, 50
20 Eduardo Guiliasti (9)
CEO, Concha y Toro, 61
21 Miguel Torres Maczassek (–)
General manager, Miguel Torres, 38
22 Mathieu Chadronnier (41)
General manager, CVBG Grands Crus, 35
23 David Dearie (–)
CEO/executive director, Treasury Wine Estates, 50
24 Jean-Charles Boisset (25)
Proprietor, Boisset Family Estates, 43
25 Jeannie Cho Lee MW (26)
Journalist, 44
26 Stéphane Derenoncourt (33)
International consultant, 50
27 David Pedrol (–)
Product director, Yesmywine.com, 32
28 Pierre-Antoine Castéjà (34)
Managing director, Joanne Bordeaux,
29 Tony Laithwaite (20)
Chairman, Direct Wines, 67
30 Marvin Shanken (21)
President and founder, M Shanken Communications, 69
31 Simon Berry (27)
Chairman, Berry Bros & Rudd, 55
32 Bob Peter (–)
President and CEO, Liquor Control Board of Ontario
33 Magdalena Gerger (–)
CEO, Systembolaget, 49
34 Denis Dubourdieu (37)
International consultant, 62
35 Allen Meadows (40)
Writer and publisher, Burghound.com, 59
36 Jacques and Eric Boissenot (–)
Consultants, Laboratoire Boissenot
37 Piero Antinori (35)
President, Marchesi Antinori, 74
38 Ch’ng Poh Tiong (32)
Publisher, The Wine Review, 57
39 John Kapon (31)
CEO, Acker Merrall & Condit, 41
40 Olivier Bernard (–)
Owner, Domaine de Chevalier; president, Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux, 53
41 Yasuhisa Hirose (48)
President, Enoteca, 63
42 Paolo Pong (–)
Owner, Altaya Wines, 36
43 Pedro Parra (49)
Soil expert, 43
44 Li Demei (–)
Consultant winemaker, 43
45 Stephen Browett (–)
Chairman, Farr Vintners, 53
46 Gary Boom (39)
Managing director, Bordeaux Index, 54
47 Eduardo Chadwick (–)
President, Viña Errázuriz, 53
48 Judy Leissner (–)
CEO, Grace Vineyards, 34
49 Frédéric Rouzaud (46)
Managing director, Champagne Louis Roederer, 45
50 Michael Hill Smith MW (42)
Co-owner, Shaw + Smith, age 58

Comments

The list reflects the two dominant trends of the international wine world: globalization and the rise of Asia.

Ten of the 50 listed luminaries have a strong Asian connection. 2 years ago, there were only 6 of them. New on the list this year are: Yang Wenhua (12), Paolo Pong (42), Winemaker Li Demei (44) und Judy Leissner ( 48), CEO of the Chinese winery Grace Vineyards. You can also add to them a number of names from the West with strong ties to the East, like John D Watkins (11), David Pedrol (27) and David Dearie (23).

Wu Fei, head of the wine and spirits division of the COFCO, China’s state-owned Cereals, Oils and Foodstuffs Corporation, is the new #2 (up from #8 last year). COFCO makes wine (Great Wall brand), invests in wine properties (Chateau Viaud in Bordeaux) and is a key potential partner for anyone in the world who wants to sell bulk wine into the Chinese market.

The China connection also might explain Aubert de Villaine’s rise from #30 to #8. Aubert de Villaine is co-owner of Domaine de la Romanée Conti (DRC). 2013 has been seen by many as the year that Chinese investors and collectors lost interest in Bordeaux and turned their attention to Burgundy. So, no surprise that DRC, perhaps the most sought-after Burgundy wine, would surge in the ranking.

From a German perspective, I am surprised that Alexander Margaritoff does not show up on the list. He is the CEO of Hawesko, the largest wine trade company in Europe and the largest on-line wine retailer in the world.

Here are the wine writers on the list: Robert Parker (9), Jancis Robinson (10), Steven Spurrier (13), Jeannie Cho Lee (25), Marvin Shanken (30), Allen Meadow (35) and Ch’ng Poh Tiong (38).

In compiling the Power List, Decanter consulted the following people: Pedro Ballesteros MW, Jon Bonné (San Francisco Chronicle), Gary Boom (Bordeaux Index), Jim Boyce (beijingboyce.com), Stephen Browett (Farr Vintners), Andrew Caillard MW, Bob Campbell MW, Mathieu Chadronnier (CVBG Grands Crus), Ch’ng Poh Tiong, Jeannie Cho Lee MW, Phil Crozier (Gaucho), Charles Curtis MW, Victor de la Serna, Ian D’Agata, Pierre-Henri Gagey (Louis Jadot), Peter Gago (Penfolds), Anthony Hanson MW, Michael Hill-Smith MW, James Lawther MW, John Livingstone- Learmonth, Giles MacDonogh, Nico Manessis, Debra Meiburg MW, Jasper Morris MW, Fiona Morrison MW, Joel Payne, John Platter (Platter’s Wine Guide), Fabricio Portelli (El Conocedor), Peter Richards MW, Don St Pierre Jr (ASC Fine Wines), Eleonora Scholes, Larry Stone, Paul Symington, John Terlato (Terlato Wines International), Miguel A Torres.

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