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Tour and Tasting at Weingut Franz Keller in Oberbergen, Baden – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

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Picture: Tasting with Fritz Keller at Weingut Franz Keller in Oberbergen, Baden

During the Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2015), we had two long luncheons at 1 star Michelin restaurants: at Röttele's Restaurant im Schloss Neuweier in Neuweier and at the legendary Restaurant Schwarzer Adler of Fritz Keller in Oberbergen. As to the former, I already reported about the spectacular luncheon cum winetasting here: Wine Pairing Lunch at Röttele’s Restaurant (1 Star Michelin) at Schloss Neuweier, with Owner and Winemaker Robert Schätzle, Weingut Schloss Neuweier - German South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2015)

Before the luncheon at Restaurant Schwarzer Adler in Oberbergen, we toured his new winery.

This posting focuses on Weingut Franz Keller. A posting covering the luncheon at Restaurant Schwarzer Adler will follow.

Fritz Keller greeted us.

The Fritz Keller Empire

The founder of the Keller Empire is the late Franz Keller. Franz Keller (1927 – 2007) probably was Germany’s most important early proponent of fully-fermented, dry wines and the use of barriques. He had 2 sons. One of them – Franz Keller - was initially the Chef of Restaurant Schwarzer Adler, but eventually moved to Hattenheim in the Rheingau, where he is the owner and chef at the Adlerwirtschaft. The other one – Fritz Keller – took over from his father in the 1980s and expanded the empire further.

Picture: Weingut Franz Keller

Today, the Keller empire comprises a luxury hotel (Hotel Schwarzer Adler in Oberbergen), 3 restaurants (the Michelin starred Schwarzer Adler, the more basic Rebstock, just across the street, and the KellerWirtschaft, which is part of the new winery), a fine wine trading company, focusing on Bordeaux and Bourgogne, Weingut Franz Keller (recently joined the VDP, the association of about 200 elite winemakers in Germany) and the Edition Fritz Keller project, a very successful trademark wine project with the discount chain Aldi.

Fritz Keller, in addition to his activity as winemaker, wine trader and restaurateur, is also president of the German football club SC Freiburg.

Pictures: Weingut Franz Keller - Tour

Weingut Franz Keller

With the Keller family everything started with producing and offering outstanding food. Franz and his wife Irma were among the first generation of chefs to start the German revolution in the kitchen more than 50 years ago. In 1969 Franz and Irma Keller and their restaurant Schwarze Adler were awarded one Michelin star. For Franz Keller, the central idea of winemaking was to produce top quality wines that perfectly accompanied the creations in the kitchen. The current generation, Fritz and Bettina Keller have brought the winery to a new level. They just finished construction of a brand new winery that is an architectural landmark, beautifully integrated in the landscape. Their efforts to produce top wines, among them stunning Pinot Noirs, were acknowledged by their selection as new member of the VDP in 2013.

Fritz Keller: Initially, everything revolved around gastronomy for the Kellers. To make wines that partner food perfectly has thus always been central to their winemaking. In vineyard and winery, just as in the kitchens of the restaurants, the greatest attention is paid to the raw materials. Only grapes of a select quality – this is our conviction – can go on to develop their own character which speaks of the terroir and the estate.

Pictures: Tasting with Fritz Keller

Trading in Fine Wine

Fritz Keller: Trading in fine wines has been a tradition of more than 100 years in the Keller family. To this day, the focus is on the great wines of Bordeaux and Burgundy: a unique portfolio unequalled in quality and breadth encompassing wines from the most prestigious vineyards and chateaux, completed by selected wines from other European and New World regions.

Edition Fritz Keller

Edition Fritz Keller is a highly successful collaboration of Fritz Keller with Aldi, Germany's legendary discount food retailer. Under the brand name Edition Fritz Keller, he initially (in 2007) produced a Pinot Noir and a Pinot Blanc from Baden, contracting with a great many smaller growers of the region for grapes. In this quest to bring top-quality wine to as many people as possible, Fritz has, as the back label pompously informs us, found inspiration in the "Bauhaus" school of architecture and art. The portfolio has now expanded to more than half a dozen wines.

Wine Tasting

2014 Weingut Franz Keller Silvaner Alte Reben VDP.Gutswein
2014 Weingut Franz Keller Weissburgunder VDP.Gutswein
2014 Weingut Franz Keller Grauburgunder VDP.Gutswein
2014 Weingut Franz Keller Weissburgunder VDP.Gutswein


2013 Weingut Franz Keller Spätburgunder Franz Anton
2012 Weingut Franz Keller Spätburgunder S


2012 Weingut Franz Keller Pinot Sect brut

Picture: Leaving

Lunch at Restaurant Schwarzer Adler

Following the visit of Weingut Franz Keller, we had a wonderful wine lunch at Restaurant Schwarzer Adler. See separate posting.

Pictures: Lunch at Restaurant Schwarzer Adler of Fritz Keller in Oberbergen.

Postings on the Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015) (Posted and Forthcoming)

4 Wine Tours by ombiasy coming up in 2015: Germany-East, Germany-South. Germany-Nord and Bordeaux

Fall Tours by ombiasy WineTours 2015 - A Very Special Treat: Experience Harvest Time !

Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Tour, Tasting (and Lunch) with Robert Schätzle, Owner and Winemaker, Weingut Schloss Neuweier in Baden– Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2015)

Wine Pairing Lunch at Röttele’s Restaurant (1 Star Michelin) at Schloss Neuweier, with Owner and Winemaker Robert Schätzle, Weingut Schloss Neuweier - German South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2015)

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Salwey in Oberrotweil, Kaiserstuhl, Baden, with Benno Salwey – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars and Wine Taverns in Freiburg, Baden, Germany

Tour and Tasting at Weingut Franz Keller in Oberbergen, Baden – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Wine Paring Lunch at Restaurant Schwarzer Adler (1 Star Michelin) in Oberbergen, Kaiserstuhl, Baden

Tour and Tasting at Weingut Bernhard Huber (VDP) in Baden, with Yquem Viehauser

Tour and Tasting at Weingut Dr. Heger (VDP) in Baden.

Tour and Tasting at Maison Léon Beyer in Eguisheim, Alsace, France, with Marc Beyer

Tour and Tasting at Domaine Weinbach in Kaysersberg, Alsace, with Catharine Faller

Wine Pairing Lunch at Wine Tavern Jülg, Weingut Jülg, in Schweigen, with Johannes Jülg

Tasting at Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz (VDP) in Siebeldingen, Pfalz

Schiller's Favorite (Wine-) Restaurants in Deidesheim in the Pfalz, Germany

Tour and Tasting at Weingut Müller-Catoir in Neustadt-Haardt, Pfalz

Tour and Tasting at Weingut A. Christmann (VDP) in Gimmeldingen, Pfalz, with Steffen Christmann

Tour and Tasting at Weingut von Winning (VDP) in Deidesheim, Pfalz

Tour and Tsting at Weingut Josef Biffar in Deidesheim, with Owner and Winemaker Fumiko Tokuoka

Wine Pairing Dinner at Restaurant FUMI at Weingut Josef Biffar in Deidesheim, with Owner and Winemaker Fumiko Tokuoka

Tour and Tasting at Weingut Markus Schneider in Ellerstadt, Pfalz, with Markus Schneider

Tour and Tasting at Weingut Koehler-Ruprecht in Kallstadt, Pfalz, with Franziska Schmitt

Tasting at Weingut Dreissigacker in Bechtheim, Rheinhessen, with Ute Dreissigacker

Tour and Wine Pairing Lunch at Weingut Eva Vollmer in Mainz-Ebersheim, Rheinhessen, with Eva Vollmer

Best South African Wines and Winemakers - Platter’s South African Wine Guide 2016

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Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Ntsiki Biyela at Stellekaya in Stellenbosch – South Africa’s Only Female and Black Winemaker with International Recognition

For more, see:
Meeting Ntsiki Biyela at Stellekaya in Stellenbosch – South Africa’s Only Female and Black Winemaker with International Recognitio

The undisputed authority in terms of South African wine is the Platter's South African Wine Guide. The 2016 Platter's South African Wine Guide was just released.

For Platters of previous years, see:
South Africa’s Top Wines - Platter´s South Africa Wine Guide 2015
Platter’s South African Wine Guide 2014
Platter’s South African Wine Guide 2013
South Africa’s Top Wines - Platter´s South Africa Wine Guide 2012
Platter´s South Africa Wine Guide 2011

Modern South Africa

I have traveled in South Africa many times in the past 3 decades, in particular during the period 1989 to 1992, when I used to live in Madagascar. When traveling in South Africa today, it quickly becomes evident that apartheid is resting in the dustbin of history. South Africa’s current President is the Zulu Jakob Zuma, who is mired in personal and political controversy. The Txosa Nelson Mandela, who had spent more than 25 years in prison during apartheid, was President in the 1990s. The gap between the haves and have-nots continues to be wide, but is narrowing and a black middle class is emerging. This, however, is not so much evident in the wine region, which continues to be dominated by the whites. 99% of the vineyard area is in the hands of whites. The AIDS pandemic is taking a toll with the HIV infection rate at about 10 percent, though declining.

Over the course of the years, I have detected an increasing openness, pride and camaraderie among all the South Africans – white, colored or black, Boers or Brits; Indians, Jews, Zulus, Txosas or Vendas, I met. Nevertheless, this rainbow society with a share of 75% of blacks, has huge challenges to cope with.

Picture: Christian Schiller at Nelson Mandela Square in Johannesburg

South African Wine Industry

Unlike other New World wine regions, the South African wine industry is strongly influenced by several large wine-cooperatives, including Distel and KWV; in total, there about 60 co-operatives. In addition, there are about 25 trading companies, or negociants, which often operate wineries, but seldom own their own vineyards. Among these are SAVISA, Winecorp, Stellenbosch Vineyards and Graham Beck; Western Wines is among the trading companies that are foreign based and owned; their brand Kumala is by far South Africa’s biggest brand. Over 80% of the total crop is delivered to these large wineries by about 4000 wine growers. However, private wineries have increasingly emerged and seen an impressive growth; there are now about 600 winemakers with their own cellars, most of them in the premium wine segment.

More than half of the total production is exported. The previous Cape powers, the UK and Netherlands, are traditionally the main destinations for wines shipments; but other markets are coming up, including Sweden, Denmark, the USA, Germany and Angola.

The wine industry is firmly in the hands of the whites, both white South Africans and foreign investors. But I had the pleasure to meet Ntsiki Biyela, a female black winemaker, who is producing outstanding wines at Stellekaya in Stellenbosch.

Picture: Christian Schiller with Anthony Hamilton Russell of Hamilton Russell Vineyards

For more, see:
Burgundy Wines in South Africa: Hamilton Russell Vineyards

Platter’s South African Wine Guide 2016

The Platter’s by Diners Club South African Wine Guide 2016 was launched at Cape Town’s Mount Nelson Hotel on 29 October 2015.

The guide’s ultimate accolade, Winery of the Year, this year went to Mullineux & Leeu Family Wines. The Swartland-based winery thereby became the first to scoop the award twice within a handful of years, having been named Platter’s Winery of the Year in 2014.

Even more remarkably, both the prestigious Red Wine of the Year and new Dessert Wine of the Year awards also went to Mullineux & Leeu, for their site-specific Iron Syrah 2013 and debut solera-matured Olerasay Straw Wine NV respectively. To cap a stellar performance, the Mullineux team garnered three further five star ratings.

Stellenbosch family estate Warwick scooped the White Wine of the Year plaudit for The White Lady Chardonnay 2014.

A total of 83 five star wines, as well as three new five star brandies and one new five star husk spirit are featured in the 2016 guide. Publisher of Platter’s, Jean-Pierre Rossouw, says: “This year, all wines that were scored 4.5 stars or higher in the primary assessment went into a second round of tasting, conducted blind (without sight of the label) by small panels including experienced palates from outside the team.”

Emerging from this thorough review process with their first ever five star ratings were the following 16 producers: Anura, Beeslaar, Bloemendal, Constantia Glen, Eenzaamheid, GlenWood, Guardian Peak, Keermont, La Couronne, Leeuwenkuil, Luddite, MVH Signature Wines, Savage Wines, Vondeling, Vuurberg and Waterkloof.

Also worthy of note are 4 five star awards for Spier, and 3 five star ratings each for David & Nadia Sadie and Newton Johnson Family Vineyards.

Debuting in 1980, Platter’s by Diners Club is South Africa’s first and still leading wine annual, with total hardcover sales of well over 1.4 million copies, plus more recent digital versions for mobile and desktop devices. The 2016 edition follows the popular and award-winning Platter’s format, with more than 900 South African wine producers, merchants and brands being featured, including some 50 new ones, along with over 8,000 locally produced wines.

The guide’s wine descriptions and star ratings are compiled in association with a team of leading wine experts, and include good-value indicators and pointers to Hidden Gems – wines that are interesting, unique, unusual or otherwise worthy of wine lovers’ attention. Wine-lands dining, accommodation and cellar door tasting options are also covered in detail, along with the full spectrum of tourist amenities, attractions and activities.

The five star wines for 2016 are:

Cabernet Franc

Chamonix 2013

Cabernet Sauvignon

Delaire Graff Laurence Graff Reserve 2012
Guardian Peak Lapa 2013
Kleine Zalze Vineyard Selection 2012

Cinsaut

AA Badenhorst Ramnasgras 2014

Grenache Noir

David & Nadia Sadie 2014

Pinotage

Beeslaar 2013
Rijk's Reserve 2011
Spier 21 Gables 2013
Windmeul Reserve 2014

Pinot Noir

Bouchard Finlayson Galpin Peak 2013
Newton Johnson Family Vineyards 2014

Shiraz/Syrah

Bellingham Bernard Series Basket Press Syrah 2013
Eagles' Nest Shiraz 2012
Leeuwenkuil Heritage Syrah 2013
Mullineux Iron Syrah 2013
Reyneke Syrah 2013
Richard Kershaw Clonal Selections Elgin Syrah 2013

Red Blends

AA Badenhorst Red 2013
Delaire Graff Botmaskop 2013
Ernie Els CWG Auction Reserve 2013
Fleur du Cap Laszlo 2012
Haskell IV 2010
Kaapzicht Steytler Vision 2012
Luddite Saboteur 2012
Meerlust Rubicon 2010
Miles Mossop Max 2012
Mulderbosch Faithful Hound 2013
Mvemve Raats MR de Compostella 2013
Nico van der Merwe Mas Nicolas Cape 2013
Savage Wines CWG Auction Reserve Follow the Line 2013
Spier CWG Auction Reserve Frans K Smit 2011
The Winery of Good Hope Radford Dale Black Rock 2013
Vondeling Erica 2012
Vuurberg Reserve 2012

Chardonnay

Buitenverwachting 2014
Dorrance Cuvée Anaïs 2014
GlenWood Grand Duc 2013
Graham Beck Lonehill 2014
Haskell Anvil 2014
MVH Signature 2014
Newton Johnson Family Vineyards 2014
Paul Cluver Seven Flags 2014
Sterhuis Barrel Selection 2013
Sumaridge 2013
Warwick The White Lady Chardonnay 2014

Chenin Blanc

Botanica Mary Delany 2014
David & Nadia Sadie Hoë-Steen 2014
Eenzaamheid 2013
Kaapzicht The 1947 2014
Keermont Riverside 2014
Ken Forrester Old Vine Reserve 2014
Mullineux Granite 2014

Roussanne

Bellingham Bernard Series Whole Bunch 2015

Sauvignon Blanc

Cederberg David Nieuwoudt Ghost Corner 2014
Nederburg The Young Airhawk 2014
Neil Ellis Groenekloof 2015
Spier 21 Gables 2014

Semillon

Constantia Uitsig 2014
Mullineux CWG Auction Reserve The Gris 2014

Viognier

The Foundry 2014

White Blends

Bloemendal Kanonberg 2014
Cape Point CWG Auction Reserve White 2014
Constantia Glen Two 2014
Constantia Uitsig Natura Vista 2014
David & Nadia Sadie Aristargos 2014
Mullineux White Blend 2014
Newton Johnson Resonance 2014
Nitida Coronata Integration 2014
Oak Valley Mountain Reserve White Blend 2011
Sadie ‘T Voetpad 2014
Spier Creative Block 2 2014
Waterkloof Circle of Life White 2013

Méthode Cap Classique

Anura Brut 2011
Cederberg Blanc de Blancs Brut 2010

Dessert Wine, Unfortified

Miles Mossop Kika Noble Late Harvest 2014
Nederburg Winemaster's Reserve Noble Late Harvest 2014
Klein Constantia Vin de Constance Natural Sweet 2011
Mullineux Olerasay Straw Wine NV

Dessert Wine, Fortified

La Couronne Muscadel NV
Boplaas Heritage Reserve White Muscadel 2012

Port-Style

Boplaas Cape Vintage Reserve 2012
De Krans Cape Vintage Reserve 2013

Brandy/Husk Spirit

Dalla Cia 10 Year Old Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot Husk Spirit
KWV 10 Year Old Vintage
KWV Nexus
Van Ryn 15 Year Fine Cask Reserve

Wines & Winery of the Year are:

White Wine of the Year: Warwick The White Lady Chardonnay 2014

Dessert Wine of the Year: Mullineux Olerasay Straw Wine NV

Red Wine of the Year: Mullineux Iron Syrah 2013

Winery of the Year: Mullineux & Leeu Family Wines

schiller-wine: Related Postings

In the Plane: Wine on South African Airways from Johannesburg to Livingstone in Zambia (Victoria Falls)

New World Wine Producer South Africa

Boekenhoutskloof– Producer of Sensational Premium Wines as well as Good Value Table Wines in Franschhoek

Lunch with Raphael Dornier in Stellenbosch

Burgundy Wines in South Africa: Hamilton Russell Vineyards

Devon Rocks - A Boutique Producer of Pinotage in South Africa

Wining, Dining and Relaxing with the Chocolate/Coffee Pinotage at Diemersfontein Wine and Country Estate in Wellington, South Africa

In the Glass: A Rust en Vrede 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon With South African Oysters in Stellenbosch

Marianne Wine Estate: South African Wine with a French Soul

Meeting Ntsiki Biyela at Stellekaya in Stellenbosch – South Africa’s Only Female and Black Winemaker with International Recognition

Wine, Art and Food: Donald Hess’ Glen Carlou Estate in South Africa

Riesling in South Africa

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Graf Neipperg in Schwaigern, Württemberg – Germany-East Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

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Picture: At Weingut Graf Neipperg in Schwaigern, Württemberg

Famous all over the world among red wine lovers is Count Stefan von Neipperg in St. Emilion who runs (among others) Château Canon La Gaffelière and La Mondotte, which were promoted to the extremely closed circle of Premiers Grand Crus Classés in the new St. Emilion classification a couple of years ago.

Not so well known is the fact that Count Stefan von Neipperg is descendant of the German von Neipperg family in Württemberg. He grew up in Schwaigern at the von Neipperg castle and Weingut Graf Neipperg. Count Stefan’s older brother, Karl Eugen Erbgraf von Neipperg, the head of the von Neipperg family, is in charge of Weingut Graf Neipperg.

Björn Schilling hosted us. He gave us a cellar tour and led a wine tasting.

Wine Region Württemberg

Baden-Württemberg is one of the 16 German states that make up Germany. Baden-Wuerttemberg is one of the growth centers of Germany due to its booming export industries. Mercedes-Benz and Porsche are prime examples. Baden-Württemberg comprises two wine growing areas, Baden and Württemberg.

Wine from Württemberg is mainly red wine. The main production area is along the Neckar River between Stuttgart and Heilbronn. There are also vineyards on Lake Constance that belong to Württemberg.

More wine is consumed here (per capita) than anywhere else in Germany - actually twice as much as in the rest of Germany. The German poet Friedrich von Schiller wrote already several centuries ago: “A Württemberger without wine--is that a real Württemberger?”

Pictures: Lunch at Restaurant Zum Alten Rentamt in Schwaigern. The Restaurant Zum Alten Rentamt belongs to Weingut Graf Neipperg

The Trollinger is the most popular variety, which is grown almost exclusively in Württemberg. It is a nice table wine that goes well with the local food. If you are looking for a premium wine, Lemberger (known as Blaufränkisch in Austria and Kékfrankos in its Hungarian homeland) is the grape variety to go for. The Lemberger made by Weingut Dautel and Weingut Wachstetter, which we had during the tour, can compete with the best red wines in the world.

With 11,000 hectares under vine, Württemberg is Germany's fourth largest wine region. Winemaking cooperatives are very common in Württemberg, number around 70, and are responsible for almost 75% of the region's production.

Wines from Württemberg are hard to find in the US. This is partly explained by the production structure, which is dominated by co-operatives. These co-operatives are known for producing top class wines. But they tend to be less aggressive in terms of penetrating new markets.

Weingut Graf Neipperg

Weingut Graf Neipperg is in Schwaigern in Württemberg. Bernd Supp has been responsible for the winery since 1992.

The vineyards comprise 30 hectares of vines, a large part of it in the Neipperger Schlossberg and the Schwaigerner Ruthe. In terms of red grape varieties, Lemberger (30%) dominates; Pinot Meunier, Pinot Noir and Trollinger are also planted. In terms of white grape varieties, Riesling (24%) dominates; Müller Thurgau, Muscatel and Traminer are also plated. About 40% of the vineyards are steep slopes, which are cultivated using the vertical terraces approach.

Pictures: Arriving at Weingut Graf Neipperg in Schwaigern

The Counts of Neipperg are said to have brought Lemberger to Germany in the 17th century. In any case, it was from here that the high-quality grape began its advance at the start of the 20th century. As a German red wine, it can effortlessly achieve the caliber of its international counterparts as a deep-colored, well-structured wine with powerful tannins.

Weingut Graf Neipperg’s focus is on traditional grape varieties of the region, vinified dry, and aged in one of the estate’s enormous casks in the castle cellar. The house also feels traditionally committed to the white specialties Muskateller and Traminer.

Rising Star of the Year - Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2015

Last year, Karl Eugen Erbgraf zu Neipperg, Weingut des Grafen Neipperg, Schwaigern, was the Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2015 Rising Star of the Year and was promoted to 4 (of 5) grapes.

Picture: Karl Eugen Erbgraf zu Neipperg at the Gault Millau Ceremony

The von Neipperg Family in Germany, Austria and France

Proprietor Count Karl-Eugen zu Neipperg is a descendant of an Austrian / German noble line dating back to the Holy Roman Empire. Members of this dynasty always played important roles in European history and politics, and have been making wine since the 12th century.

The first record of the Count von Neipperg goes as far back as the 12th century.

Looking back, there are many major historical figures in the von Neipperg family.

Pictures: Cellar Tour at Weingut Graf Neipperg in Schwaigern, Württemberg

Count Eberhard-Friedrich von Neipperg epitomises the family's devotion to both military pursuits and winemaking. Imperial Field Marshal at the Austrian court, he was famous for having defeated the Turks at Timisoara in 1667. He was also responsible for introducing the famous Austrian grape variety Blaufränkisch (Lemberger) at his vineyard estates. This variety continues to enjoy prominence in the family vineyards.

Adam-Adalbert von Neipperg, is undoubtedly the family's most famous ancestor. A legendary soldier, nicknamed "the German Bayard" by Madame de Staël, he is most often depicted with an eye patch hiding a wound received at the Battle of Doelen in 1794. A devoted enemy of Napoleon, he used his diplomatic talents to contribute to the emperor's downfall. In 1814, Franz II, Emperor of Austria, asked Adam-Adalbert to court Napoleon's wife, Marie-Louise. Adam-Adalbert married her shortly thereafter. Their marriage produced three children, which prompted Chateaubriand to say that Adam-Adalbert "had dared to lay his eggs in the eagle's nest".

The family tree of the present Counts von Neipperg goes back to Adam-Adalbert's first marriage to Countess Paula de Treviso. It was during this troubled time that the von Neipperg holdings were annexed by the Duke of Württemberg, who had been proclaimed king. The family nevertheless managed to hold on to some of their land. At this juncture, the von Neippergs devoted most of their energy to winegrowing, while continuing to be involved with their country's political affairs.

See also:
The Wine Empire of the von Neipperg Family in France, Bulgaria and Germany

Pictures: Tasting at at Weingut Graf Neipperg in Schwaigern, Württemberg

The von Neippergs in France

Count Joseph Hubert von Neipperg branched out in 1971 and acquired 4 St. Emilion estates: La Mondotte, Château Canon-La Gaffelière, Clos de l'Oratoire, and Château Peyraud. Since 1984, Count Joseph Hubert’s son Count Stephan has been in charge of these 4 estates. Moreover, he expanded the family’s French holdings further and also entered into a joint venture in Bulgaria.

Picture: Christian Schiller with Count Stephan von Neipperg in St. Emilion at Château Canon La Gaffelière, see: A Morning at Château Canon La Gaffeliere in Saint Emilion with Owner Count Stefan von Neipperg, Bordeaux

Picture: Wine Dinner with Count Stephan von Neipperg at Château Canon La Gaffelière, see: Dinner at Château Canon La Gaffeliere, Appellation Saint-Emilion, Premier Grand Cru Classé, France

Stephan Graf von Neipperg was borne at the family estate in Schwaigern. As a young man, he had no intention of getting involved in wine. He studied politics and business administration in Paris. Later, after having decided to change course, he also studied winemaking in Montpelier.

Pictures: The Brothers Karl Eugen and Stephan, with his Wife Sigweis, and Annette Schiller at Prowein 2015 in Düsseldorf

In 1983, Stephan Graf von Neipperg Neipperg moved with his German wife Sigweis to St. Emilion and at Château Canon La Gaffelière. At that point, the French holdings of the von Neipperg family consisted of the four estates his father had bought in 1971. Since then Stephan Graf von Neipperg he expanded the family’s French holdings further and also entered into a joint venture in Bulgaria. He has become one of the Right Bank's most successful winemakers.

Tasting

2014 Weingut des Grafen Neipperg Muskateller
2014 Weingut des Grafen Neipperg Neipperger Weisburgunder
2014 Weingut des Grafen Neipperg Neipperger Riesling Kabinett
2014 Weingut des Grafen Neipperg Neipperger Schlossberg Riesling GG


2014 Weingut des Grafen Neipperg Rose
2014 Weingut des Grafen Neipperg Lemberger
2014 Weingut des Grafen Neipperg Neipperger Spätburgunder
2014 Weingut des Grafen Neipperg Neipperger Schlossberg Lemberger GG

Pictures: Tasting at Weingut Graf Neipperg in Schwaigern, Württemberg

Postings: Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015) (Published and Forthcoming)

Preview: Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

The Art Marketer: OMBIASY PR & WINE TOURS - Germany-East

Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Tasting at Weingut Lützkendorf with Uwe Lützkendorf – Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Weingut Pawis (Saale Unstrut): Estate Tour and Wine Tasting with Markus Pawis – Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Weingut Thürkind in Gröst, Saale-Unstrut: Tour, Tasting and Lunch – Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Schiller's Favorite Winemakers in the Saale Unstrut Region, Germany

Weingut Schloss Proschwitz, Prinz zur Lippe, in Zadel, Sachsen: Tour and Tasting with Prinz zur Lippe – Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Dining with Prinz zur Lippe, Owner of Weingut Schloss Proschwitz, at the Lippe’sches Gutshaus - Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Weingut Karl Friedrich Aust in Radebeul, Sachsen: Tour and Lunch with Tasting – Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Visit of Weingut Klaus Zimmerling: The Wines of Klaus Zimmerling and the Art of his Wife Malgorzata Chodakoska - Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Schiller's Favorite Winemakers in Sachsen (Saxony), Germany

Tour and Tasting at Weingut Wirsching in Iphofen in Franken with General Manager Uwe Matheus– Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Visit and Tasting at Weingut Am Stein Ludwig Knoll in Würzburg, Franken - Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Tasting and Tour with the Pinot Noir Legend Paul Fürst, Weingut Rudolf Fürst in Bürgstadt, Franken– Germany-East Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Schiller’s Favorites: 2 Legendary Wine Taverns in Würzburg – Juliusspital and Bürgerspital

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Graf Neipperg in Schwaigern, Württemberg

Tasting at Weingut Dautel in Württemberg with Christian Dautel

Wine Pairing Dinner at Restaurant Friedrich von Schiller in Bietigheim-Bissingen in Württemberg

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Herzog von Württemberg at Schloss Monrepos with Owner F.R.H. Carl Duke of Württemberg

Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting with Rainer Schnaitmann at Weingut Rainer Schnaitmann in Fellbach, Württemberg

Wine Tasting at Weingut Simon-Bürkle in Zwingenberg, Hessische Bergstrasse

Announcement: 5 Exciting ombiasy WineTours in 2016 - BURGUNDY BORDEAUX GERMANY

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Picture: Lunch with Didier Cuvelier at Chateau Léoville-Poyferré, Bordeaux

Picture: Weingut Dr. Loosen, Mosel

TOURS 2016

The husband and wife team Annette and Christian Schiller will personally guide the tours throughout the trip. Through our friendships with winemakers and owners of estates, all tours will become a very personal experience for everyone in our small group.

Picture: Annette and Christian Schiller with Hansjörg and Birgit Rebholz, Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz, Pfalz, at Prowein 2015 in Düsseldorf

BURGUNDY / CHAMPAGNE (May 26 - June 05)

Picture: At the Hospices de Beaune in Beaune, Bourgogne

This 11 day tour takes as from Lyon, world capital of exquisite food, to Reims, world capital of premium sparkling wines. The focus lies on Burgundy, which is the historically highly respected wine region that produced wines for the Emperors of France (we will take a walk through the ancient wine cellars once belonging to the Kings of France) and other Imperial Courts in Europe and beyond. We will visit top wine estates in all distinct sub regions starting with the Beaujolais, moving up to the Mâconnais, Côte Chalonnaise, Côte de Beaune, Côte de Nuits, Chablis, and crossing into the Champagne region. We will explore the concept of “climat”, similar to the “terroir” concept in Germany, and will see first hand what it entails to produce a top notch Champagne. And of course we will enjoy fabulous French cuisine.

For the 2015 tour see: Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

The Burgundy/ Champagne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2016) is already fully booked.

BORDEAUX (Sept 06 - Sept 15)

Picture: Wine Lunch at Château Le Bon Pasteur, Appellation Pomerol, with Dany Rolland and Director Benoit Prevot

Spend 10 days in Bordeaux! ”Bordeaux” embodies more than just wine. In France the interplay of wine and food is very important and almost every day we will have a wine pairing meal at a famous Château. Drawing on our love and deep knowledge of the region as well as our personal ties to many of the players in the Bordeaux wine scene, we will visit many of the hidden gems -such as visiting a cooperage, an oyster farm, some small, top “petit Châteaux” - that other tours pass by, but which are essential to feel what Bordeaux is all about. In a nutshell: this is a hands-on Bordeaux wine class on the ground.

For the 2015 tour see: Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

GERMANY EAST (May 12 - May 20)

Picture: Impromptu Meeting with Caro Maurer, Master of Wine, in Dresden

This 9 day tour allows wine lovers and aficionados of the arts to experience what the statement “wine is a form of art” entails. Wine, music, dance, visual arts, kaleidoscope of European and German history. We experience all this in Germany’s beautiful wine regions in the East, which is also the cradle of German intellect and culture. We will visit 19 wineries, among them wineries that embody the wine and art approach, and attend 4 performances at world-renowned theater houses.

For the 2015 tour see: Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

GERMANY NORTH (May 05 - May 11)

Picture: At Schloss Johannisberg in the Rheingau at "Spätlese Reiter" (Later Harvest Rider) Monument, with Christian Witte, General Manager of Weingut Schloss Johannisberg

This 7 day tour lets us explore the regions that are quintessential to understand “Riesling”, and the concept of “terroir”. We will visit many picturesque wine towns and will do a cruise on the romantic Rhine River with its castle- and vine-ribboned bank; the Mosel valley with its dizzying steep vineyards; delving into 2000 years of history and tasting premium wines at world-class wine estates.

For the 2015 tour see: Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

GERMANY SOUTH / ALSACE (Aug 28 - Sep 03)

Picture: At Weingut Müller-Catoir in Neustadt-Haardt, Pfalz

This 7 day tour takes us to the southernmost German wine regions and we will experience the German red wine revolution - gorgeous Pinot-Noirs. We will visit Germany’s unconventional, but exceptionally gifted winemakers as well as top estates in Alsace to compare the very different approaches of winemaking philosophies. We will dine at Michelin starred restaurants reflecting southern Germany's affinity with Haute Cuisine, and proximity to culinary Alsace in France across the Rhine river.

For the 2015 tour see: Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

For more details: www.ombiasypr.com or aschiller@ombiasypr.com

schiller-wine - Related Postings

Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Tour and Dinner at Château Canon La Gaffelière, Appellation Saint-Emilion, Premier Grand Cru Classé – Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

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Picture: Dinner at Château Canon La Gaffelière, Appellation Saint-Emilion, Premier Grand Cru Classé – Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Led by Annette Schiller, the Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015) took place from September 15 to 24, 2015. The group comprised 8 wine lovers from the United States, including Annette and Christian Schiller.

I already provided an overview about the whole tour: Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

This posting covers our visit of Château Canon La Gaffelière. We toured Château Canon La Gaffelière and had a fabulous wine dinner at the estate. Magali Malet was our host.

Canon La Gaffelière also is one of the only 15 Premier Grand Cru Classé B châteaux in Saint-Emilion. Proprietor Count Stephan von Neipperg is a descendant of an Austrian / German noble line dating back to the Holy Roman Empire. Members of this dynasty always played important roles in European history and politics, and have been making wine since the 12th century. The family still owns a wine estate in the Württemberg region of Germany, where their roots are.

Pictures: Château Canon La Gaffelière

Château Canon La Gaffeliere Tour

We started with a vineyard and winery tour of Château Canon La Gaffelière.

Château Canon La Gaffelière is located on the outskirts of the medieval town of Saint-Emilion, at the southern foot of the slope. The 19.5 hectare vineyard has a complex, outstanding terroir of clay-limestone and clay-sand soil. The topsoil is primarily sandy, increasingly so as one moves away from the slope. The vines, an average of 45 years old, are deeply rooted in the soil and absorb all the goodness in the terroir. They are mostly replaced individually rather than plot by plot (which maintains the average age). The last major replanting dates back to 1986.

The mixture of grape varieties cultivated on the wine estate (55% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Franc and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon) is rather untypical in comparison to the rest of the appellation. This identity, strongly influenced by Cabernet, gives the Canon La Gaffelière wines an outright complex character.

Canon La Gaffelière belongs to one of the 15 Premier Grand Cru Classé B châteaux in Saint-Emilion.

Pictures: In the Vineyards of Château Canon La Gaffelière

The von Neipperg Family in Germany, Austria and France

Proprietor Count Stefan von Neipperg hails from the German wine region of Württemberg where his family has maintained its existing vineyards since the 15th century and bottles its wine under the family label, Weingut des Grafen von Neipperg. In fact, the von Neipperg counts are descended from a noble line dating back to the Holy Roman Empire. The first record of the Count von Neipperg goes as far back as the 12th century.

Count Joseph Hubert von Neipperg branched out in 1971 and acquired 4 St. Emilion estates in 1971: La Mondotte, Château Canon La Gaffelière, Clos de l'Oratoire, and Château Peyraud. Since 1984, Count Joseph Hubert’s son Count Stephan has been in charge of these 4 estates. Moreover, he expanded the family’s French holdings further and also entered into a joint venture in Bulgaria.

Picture: Christian Schiller and Count Stefan von Neipperg at Château Canon La Gaffelière during a previous Visit

Pictures: With Stephan Graf von Neipperg at Château Canon La Gaffelière during a previous Visit

Pictures: Annette Schiller and Stephan Graf von Neipperg in Düsseldorf, Germany

Here is a list of all von Neipperg estates:

La Mondotte, AOC Saint-Émilion Grand Cru, Premier Grand Cru Classé
Château Canon La Gaffelière, AOC Saint-Émilion Grand Cru, Premier Grand Cru Classé
Clos de l'Oratoire, AOC Saint-Émilion Grand Cru, Grand Cru Classé
Château Peyreau, AOC Saint-Émilion
Château d'Aiguilhe, AOC Cotes de Castillon
Clos Marsalette, AOC Pessac-Léognan
Château Guiraud, AOC Sauternes, Premier Cru Classé 1855
Château Soleil. AOC Puisseguin Saint-Emilion
Bulgaria: Count Stephan von Neipperg, in conjunction with the banker Karl-Heinz Hauptmann, was one of the first people to invest in the wine sector in Bulgaria - in the Bessa Valley, in the Pazardjik region, 135 km southeast of Sofia.

Pictures: In the Cellar of Château Canon La Gaffelière

Count Stephan von Neipperg in France

Stephan Graf von Neipperg was borne at the family estate in Schwaigern. As a young man, he had no intention of getting involved in wine. He studied politics and business administration in Paris. Later, after having decided to change course, he also studied winemaking in Montpelier.

In 1983, Stephan Graf von Neipperg Neipperg moved with his German wife Sigweis to St. Emilion. At that point, the French holdings of the von Neipperg family consisted of the four estates his father had bought in 1971. Since then Stephan Graf von Neipperg he expanded the family’s French holdings further and also entered into a joint venture in Bulgaria. He has become one of the Right Bank's most successful winemakers.

Pictures: In the Cellar of Château Canon La Gaffelière

On that very successful route, Stephan Graf von Neipperg linked his fortunes to Stéphane Derenoncourt, a Normandy millworker's son who had never seen a grapevine before hitchhiking to Bordeaux in 1982, but taught himself enology and has since confounded traditionalists with his winemaking.

In 1988, Stephan Graf von Neipperg instituted a green harvest, dropping fruit in June to gain depth and ripeness in September. He stopped using chemical fertilizers and insecticides in 1993 as he edged toward a more biodynamic approach. "Just like 70 years ago," Stephan Graf von Neipperg. "The insects eat each other." He harvested later than his neighbors and aged his cuvées entirely in new oak.

Reception

We started the dinner with a Bollinger Champagne.


Dinner


Foie Gras au Naturel et Compotée d’Oignons Rouges


Supreme de volaille au beurre de champignons “facon Kiev”, Ecrasée de pomme Agata, quelques girolles, jus brun


Assortiment de Fromages


Sorbet de fruits rouges et fruit rouges frais


Café

The Wines


Château d’Aiguilhe 2007

Château d'Aiguilhe, AOC Cotes de Castillon

Château d'Aiguilhe is located on hills overlooking the Right Bank of the Dordogne River, on the border of the Côtes de Castillon appellation.

This 110 hectare estate has 50 hectares of vines, which are planted exclusively on the upper part of the hills. The vineyard has excellent natural drainage and south-facing sun exposure. The minerals in the clay-limestone soil account for a wine of both power and finesse in which the roundness of Merlot (80%) marries beautifully with the concentration and complexity of Cabernet Franc (20%).

Comte Stefan von Neipperg purchased the estate in 1998. He invested millions of euros in a state-of-the-art facility at Château d'Aiguilhe, in the previously unnoticed Côtes de Castillon appellation, then dared to market the wine like a St.-Emilion Grand Cru Classé. The success of d’Aiguilhe is credited with putting Cotes de Castillon on the map.

Clos de l’Oratoire 2000

Clos de l'Oratoire, AOC Saint-Émilion Grand Cru, Grand Cru Classé

Clos de l'Oratoire is located on Saint-Emilion's north-east slope. The 10 hectares of vines grow on Fronsac molasse covering a layer of sand with a clay subsoil. This terroir is ideally suited to the blend of Merlot (90%), Cabernet Franc (5%), and Cabernet Sauvignon (5%) grapes. Merlot contributes roundness and opulence to the wine, whereas Cabernet Franc is responsible for power, aromatic complexity, and length.

In 1991, Stephan Graf von Neipperg was given control of Clos de l'Oratoire, and he subsequently bought the remaining 30 percent of the property from other investors.


Château Canon La Gaffeliere 2000

Château Canon La Gaffelière, AOC Saint-Émilion Grand Cru, Premier Grand Cru Classé


La Mondotte 2004

La Mondotte, AOC Saint-Émilion Grand Cru, Premier Grand Cru Classé

The 4.5-hectare estate, founded in the 19th century, is situated on the most eastern plateau of Saint-Emilion and was purchased in 1971 by the family of the Counts of Neipperg, at the same time as the Château Canon La Gaffelière. Even though La Mondotte used to be in the shadow of Canon La Gaffelière as long as to the middle of the 1990ies, it has benefited to the same extent of the philosophy of Stephan von Neipperg and his teams.

Excellent hydric regulation encourages the vines to sink their roots deep into the soil. The superb sun exposure and fine natural drainage due to the steep slope make this a very early-maturing terroir. The vines are an average of 50 years old and the vineyard contains only premium grape varieties (75% Merlot and 25% Cabernet Franc). Ripening, especially of Merlot, is almost invariably early and complete.

The recent admission of Château La Mondotte - which a few decades ago used to be almost unknown on the market - in the extremely closed circle of Premiers Grand Crus Classés is extraordinary.


Chateau Guiraud 1998

Château Guiraud, AOC Sauternes, Premier Cru Classé 1855

This gem of an estate in Sauternes dates back to the 15th century. The vineyard currently covers 100 hectares. Château Guiraud is known for its organic approach to viticulture.

11,000 cases made. The blend of 65 percent Sémillon and 35 percent Sauvignon Blanc comes from 35- to 40-year-old vines.

Four partners - Robert Peugeot (of Peugeot automobiles), Olivier Bernard (Domaine de Chevalier), Stephan von Neipperg (Canon-La Gaffelière and others) and Xavier Planty, the estate’s longtime general manager - acquired Château Guiraud in 2006.


Postings on the Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France (Posted and Forthcoming)

4 Wine Tours by ombiasy coming up in 2015: Germany-East, Germany-South. Germany-Nord and Bordeaux

Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Bordeaux Wine Tour 2013 by ombiasy

Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Bordeaux Wines and their Classifications: The Basics

Bordeaux - En Primeur, Negociants, Courtiers, the Quai de Chartons and the Place de Bordeaux– A Short Introduction

How Does the Negociant System in Bordeaux Work? Tour and Tasting at Millésima - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Tour and Wine Dinner at Domaine de Chevalier with Director Adjoint Rémi Edange and Owner/Director Olivier Bernard – Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux City, France

Schiller's Favorite Seafood Places in Bordeaux City, France

Saint Emilion Wines and their Classification, Bordeaux, France

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in St. Emilion, France

Tour and Tasting at Château Angélus– Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Tour, Tasting and Wine Lunch at a Petit Château and Organic Producer: Château Beauséjour – Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Visit of an Ultra-premium Non-mainstream Bordeaux Producer: Tertre Rôteboeuf, with Owner and Winemaker François Mitjavile, France – Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Tour and Tasting at Château Figeac, Premier Grand Cru Classé B, in Saint-Émilion– Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Tour and Wine Lunch at Château Le Bon Pasteur, Pomerol, with Dany Rolland– Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours(2015), France

The Wine Empire of the von Neipperg Family in France, Bulgaria and Germany

Tour and Wine Dinner at Château Canon La Gaffelière, Saint-Emilion, Premier Grand Cru Classé

Tour and Tasting at Château de Fargues, Sauternes, with Prince Eudes d’Orléans

Wine Lunch at Restaurant Château de la Tour in Cadillac and Tour at Château Du Cros, Loupiac, with Catherine Boyer, Proprietor of Château Du Cros

Tour and Tasting at Château Smith-Haut-Lafitte, Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé.

Lunch at the 2 Michelin Starred Restaurant La Grande Vigne

Tour of the Earl Ostrea Chanca Oyster Farm and Oyster Tasting in Grand-Piquey, with Oyster Farmer Ralph Doerfler

What is a Bordeaux Cru Bourgeois? France

Tour and Wine Dinner at Château Le Reysse, Vignobles Paeffgen, Médoc, in Bégadan, with Stefan Paeffgen

Château Léoville-Poyferré, Chateau Le Crock, Didier Cuvelier in Bordeaux and the Cuvelier Los Andes Wines in Argentina

Tour and Tasting at Château Léoville Poyferré, Saint-Julien, 2ième Grand Cru Classé, with Didier Cuvelier

Tour and Wine Lunch at Château Pichon-Longueville-Baron, Pauillac, 2ième Grand Cru Classé

The 5 Premiers Grands Crus Chateaux en 1855 of Bordeaux, France

Tour and Tasting at Château Mouton-Rothschild, Pauillac, 1ière Grand Cru Classé.

How a Barrel is Made: Visit of the Cooperage Berger & Fils in Vertheuil

Lunch at Restaurant Le Peyrat in Saint-Estèphe with the Grape Pickers of Château Sociando Mallet

Tour and Tasting at Château Lafon-Rochet, Saint-Estèphe, 4ième Grand Cru Classé, with Owner Basile Tesseron

Tour and Tasting at Château Rauzan-Ségla, Margaux, 2ième Grand Cru Classé

Tourt and tasting at Château Palmer, Margaux, 3ième Grand Cru Classé

Tour and Wine Dinner at Château Haut-Bailly, Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé, with Diana Paulin

Visit of Domaine Georges Descombes in Morgon and Dinner in a Bouchon in Lyon on Beaujolais Nouveau Day 2015 - the 2 Faces of Beaujolais, France

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Pictures: Beaujolais at Domaine Georges Descombes in Morgon and in a Bouchon in Lyon on Beaujolais Nouveau Day 2015

The wines of the Beaujolais region have at least 2 faces: The basic stuff that is served in the Brasseries and Bistros of Paris, Lyon and elsewhere and the new generation of ultra-premium cru wines, such as those of Domaine Georges Descombes. I experienced both on the same day, the 3. Thursday of November 2016. On the way from Beaune to Lyon, we stopped at Domaine Georges Descombes in Morgon in the afternoon and had dinner in a Bouchon in Lyon in the evening.

Beaujolais Today and 20 Years Ago

“Beaujolais today is what Rheinhessen was 20 years ago” said German winemaker Peter Weritz at a recent Beaujolais tasting, “a region with a bad reputation as a result of the Beaujolais Nouveau, but with quite a number of innovative and dynamic winemakers who are in the process of propelling the region to the forefront of winemaking”. Billy Wagner, Sommelier/Owner at the trendy and 1 Star Michelin Restaurant Nobelhart und Schmutzig in Berlin said: “Well, the Beaujolais has already gone quite a distance, as there are a number of young wine makers producing wines of the highest level already today”.

Coming back to the basics: Beaujolais is a French Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée (AOC) wine generally made of the Gamay grape (accounting for nearly 98% of all plantings). Administratively, Beaujolais is part of the Bourgogne, but the winemakers up north prefer to present their wine region excluding Beaujolais.

In the 1980s, Beaujolais hit a peak of popularity in the world's wine market with its Beaujolais nouveau wine. An eventual backlash occurred in the late 1990s, when the whole of Beaujolais wine had developed a negative reputation among consumers who associated Gamay based wines with simple light bodied wines that characterized Beaujolais Nouveau. In response, there has been renewed emphasis on the production of more complex wines that are aged longer in oak barrels prior to release.

Beaujolais is a large wine producing region, totaling over 20,000 hectares. The soils of Beaujolais divide the region into a northern and southern half, with the town of Villefranche serving as a near dividing point. The northern half of Beaujolais, where most of the Cru Beaujolais communes are located, includes rolling hills of schist and granite based soils with some limestone. The southern half of the region, also known as the Bas Beaujolais, has more flatter terrain with richer, sandstone and clay based soils with some limestone patches.

There are twelve main appellations of Beaujolais wines covering the production of more than 96 villages in the Beaujolais region. They were originally established in 1936, with additional crus being promoted in 1938 and 1946, plus Régnié in 1988.

Pictures: Lyon in the Evening

About half of all Beaujolais wine is sold under the basic Beaujolais AOC designation. The majority of this wine is produced in the southern Bas Beaujolais region located around the town of Belleville. The only difference between basic Beaujolais and Beaujolais Supérieur is this slight increase in alcohol.

Beaujolais-Villages AOC, the intermediate category in terms of classification, covers 39 communes/villages in the Haut Beaujolais, the northern part of the region accounting for a quarter of production.

Several of the communes in the Beaujolais-Villages AOC also qualify to produce their wines under the Mâconnais and Saint-Véran AOCs. The Beaujolais producers that produce a red wine under the Beaujolais-Villages appellation will often produce their white wine under the more internationally recognized names of Mâcon-Villages or Saint-Véran.

Cru Beaujolais, the highest category of classification in Beaujolais, account for the production within ten villages/areas in the foothills of the Beaujolais mountains. Unlike Burgundy and Alsace, the phrase cru in Beaujolais refers to an entire wine producing area rather than an individual vineyard.

From north to south the Beaujolais crus are - Saint-Amour, Juliénas, Chénas, Moulin-à-Vent, Fleurie, Chiroubles, Morgon, Régnié, Brouilly and Côte de Brouilly.

Beaujolais is made by the winemaking technique of semi-carbonic maceration. Whole bunches of grapes are put directly into covered fermentation tanks. The weight of the grapes on top crushes the grapes underneath, which begin to ferment with ambient yeasts. This releases carbon dioxide gas, which remains trapped in the tank and sets off a different, intracellular fermentation in the grapes on top. After a week or so, the grapes are removed from the tank and the fermentation is completed in the conventional way, typically including a malolactic fermentation to soften the wine. Historically, chaptalization has been widespread in the Beaujolais.

The Beaujolais wine industry is dominated by the more than 30 négociants who produce nearly 90% of the wine sold outside the Beaujolais region. There are more than 4000 vineyard owners in Beaujolais and most of the wine that is not sold to the négociants is bottled by the nearly 20 village co-operatives.

Georges Descombes

With a view of checking out the estate for an inclusion in the Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2016)  (Announcement: 5 Exciting ombiasy WineTours in 2016 - BURGUNDY BORDEAUX GERMANY)
Annette Schiller and I visited the Georges Descombes winery in Vermont 9910 Villie-Morgon.

Picture: Domaine Georges Descombes in Morgon

In the USA, the wines of Georges Descombes are represented by David Bowler in New York: Georges Descombes, not to be confused with Jean Descombes, a grower who sells his entire production to Georges Duboeuf, is a totally separate estate which Georges took over in 1988 with a ½ hectare from his father. Georges currently has between 15 and 16 hectares of vineyards spread across a variety of cru: 3.5 hectares of Brouilly (on some of the steepest slopes in Beaujolais), 7.5 hectares of Morgon, 2 hectares of Regnié, 0.5 hectare of Chiroubles, 2 hectares of Beaujolais Villages and 1.5 hectare of generic Beaujolais. Descombes vinifies with an extreme cold carbonic maceration that takes up to 30 days. The wine is raised in relatively new barrels without using sulphur, except at bottling time, a style of wine which Descombes prefers drinking. Descombes tasted with Marcel Lapierre when he first started out and found Lapierre’s Morgons a model of lushness, purity and pleasure – he decided on the spot to work in a similar style. What is different at Descombes is the lengthy aging of the wines. The wines often go through a year of raising and are then held back in bottle.

Pictures: Domaine Georges Descombes in Morgon

The Paris-based Not drinkingpoison Blog visited Georges Descombes in the summer of 2015 and provided a nice write-up about his visit on his blog:

Descombes comprises part of what could be considered Beaujolais' second-wave of natural winemakers. He began commercialising his own wines in 1988. (Incidentally the same year Yvon Métras began vinifying, though the latter didn't begin selling his wines until 1994.)

Descombes' father had also grown grapes and made wine, and was among the last in the area to abandon horse-plowing in the late 1970's. Before acquiring any vines of his own, Georges worked for a mobile bottling company, which gave him the opportunity to taste a broad spectrum of the region's wines.* Among the company's clients was Marcel Lapierre, who in that era was just beginning his experiments with low and zero sulfur use.

Says Descombes: "People ask me, 'From the beginning you always made natural wine?' And I say yeah, because I had tasted so many other things that didn’t please me. When I tasted the experiments of Marcel, I said to myself, the day I start making wine, I'm starting like that."

Pictures: At Domaine Georges Descombes in Morgon with Georges' Wife

Nowadays Descombes' accessible and consistently pure wines are among those I drink most often in Paris, and the man himself, modest and good-humoured, built like Tony Soprano, is among the vignerons I'm happiest to encounter in the city. He frequents Les Pipos, a once-great wine bar now slightly in decline beside the Panthéon, and is a fixture at the major Beaujolais Nouveau rager hosted by his friend Patrick Fabre at Aux Tonneaux des Halles.

Descombes is also the patriarch of what has in recent years become a whole winemaking clan in the hamlet of Vermont. The Descombes complex houses Damien Coquelet, Georges' step-son who produces excellent Chiroubles and Morgon, and Kevin Descombes, Georges' son who began vinifying his own Morgon and Beaujolais tout court just two years ago.

Pictures: Tasting at Domaine Georges Descombes in Morgon

Georges' own production is two-tiered, split between his domaine wines, deriving from his 14ha of vines in Morgon and Brouilly, and a separate range he makes from purchased fruit, which latter wines are for administrative purposes vinified in an entirely separate building. His négoçiant business has in the past few years grown to compensate for 4ha of vines he gave to Kevin.

Descombes' négoçiant range is offered at a lower price point than the domaine wines, with simpler packaging. When he can, he purchases organic fruit, but he freely admits this is rarely possible in Beaujolais. (Incidentally, pretty much all négoçiant natural winemakers in Beaujolais make do with less-than-naturally-farmed fruit. It's a testament to the vinification wizardry of people like Descombes, Jean Foillard, Christophe Pacalet, and others that chemical viticulture is rarely perceptible in their négoçiant work.)

Descombes gives what's called a "prime de qualité," or a quality bonus, to the growers who put in the extra effort to farm more organically.

Picture: In the Vineyard of  Domaine Georges Descombes in Morgon

"I have one from whom I buy the Régnié, I buy a hectare and a half," says Descombes. "He brings organic treatments to the vines from which I buy, notably, and then even in some of the other plots. He makes the effort, so I give him a quality bonus... I know it's not Duboeuf who does that for him."

Dinner at a Bouchon in Lyon

A Bouchon serves traditional Lyonnaise cuisine. Originally, the husband would watch over the dining room and pour the wine (Beaujolais or Côtes du Rhône), while the wife cooked every day, family-style cuisine, centered on the offal and cooked meats which Lyon is famous for.

Picture: Beaujolais in a Pot de Lyon

There are approximately twenty officially certified traditional Bouchons. Here is the current list: Abel, Brunet, Café des deux places, Café des fédérations, Chabert et fils, Daniel et Denise, Chez Georges le petit bouchon, Les gones, Hugon, Le Jura, Chez Marcelle, Le Mercière, La mère Jean, Le mitonné, Le Morgon, Le musée, Chez Paul, Les Trois Maries, A ma vigne, and Le Vivarais.

Michelin: It is unclear whether certain establishments are authentic Bouchons or not, even while they offer menus which are perfectly representative of the genre. Chez Daniel et Denise is one such restaurant. For the past few years it has been operating under the toque of Joseph Viola, former chef of Léon de Lyon, serving such specialities as omelette du curé (an omelette generally made with chicken livers) with crayfish and Nantua sauce, le tablier de sapeur (breaded tripe), macaroni gratin and sautéed potatoes to die for. Its pâté en croûte aux ris de veau (veal sweetbreads in pastry crust) is, according to Paul Bocuse, Lyon’s best.

Chez Paul

11, rue Major Martin 69001 Lyon Tél: (33) 04 78 28 35 83

Pictures: Chez Paul

La Meunière
11 Rue Neuve 69001 Lyon Tel: (33) 04 78 28 62 91

Daniel et Denise
156 Rue de Créqui 69003 Lyon Tel: (33) 04 78 60 66 53

Restaurant Daniel et Denise
36 Rue Tramassac 69005 Lyon Tel: (33) 4 78 42 24 62

Picture: Daniel et Denise

La Tête de lard
13 Rue Désirée 69001 Lyon Tel: (33) 04 78 27 96 80

Café des Fédérations
8-9-10 Rue Major Martin 69001 Lyon Tel: (33) 04 78 28 26 00

Au petit Bouchon ’Chez Georges’
8 Rue Garet 69001 Lyon Tel: (33) 04 78 28 30 46

Picture: Au petit Bouchon ’Chez Georges’

Café du Jura
25 Rue Tupin 69002 Lyon Tel: (33) 04 78 42 20 57

Chez Hugon
12 Rue Pizay 69001 Lyon Tel: (33) 04 78 28 10 94

La Mère Jean
5 Rue Marronniers 69002 Lyon Tel: (33) 04 78 37 81 27

Le Musée
2 Rue des Forces 69002 Lyon Tel: (33) 04 78 37 71 54.

Le Garet
7 Rue du Garet 69001 Lyon Tel: (33) 04 78 28 16 94

Picture: Le Garet

Beaujolais Nouveau 2015

Beaujolais nouveau is the most popular vin de primeur, fermented for just a few weeks before being released for sale on the third Thursday of November.

Beaujolais nouveau is a purple-pink wine reflecting its youth, bottled only 6-8 weeks after harvest. The method of production means that there is very little tannin, and the wine can be dominated by such fruity ester flavors as banana, grape, strawberry, fig and pear drop. The wine is recommended to be slightly chilled to 13°C (55°F).

Pictures: Beaujolais Nouveau Day 2015 in Lyon

Beaujolais had always made a vin de l'année to celebrate the end of the harvest, but until WWII it was only for local consumption. A few Beaujolais producers saw the potential for marketing Beaujolais nouveau. The idea was born of a race to Paris carrying the first bottles of the new vintage. This attracted a lot of media coverage, and by the 1970s had become a national event. The races spread to neighboring countries in Europe in the 1980s, followed by North America, and in the 1990s to Asia. In 1985, the date was changed to the third Thursday in November to take best advantage of marketing in the following weekend.

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Vineyard Walk and Tasting at Weingut Meyer-Näkel in Dernau, Ahr, with Dörte Näkel – Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

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Picture: Tasting at Weingut Meyer-Näkel in Dernau, Ahr, with Dörte Näkel

The Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), organized and led by Annette Schiller, took place from September 6 – 12, 2015. The group was small - there were 7 of us, including Annette and Christian Schiller.

The tour took us to the Rheingau, Mittelrhein, Ahr, Mosel and Nahe. In the Ahr, we visited 2 producers: Adeneuer and Meier Näkel.

This posting covers the visit of Weingut Meyer-Näkel. For the visit of Weingut Adeneuer see here: Wine Tasting at Weingut J.J. Adeneuer in Bad Neuenahr-Ahrweiler, Ahr, with Marc Adeneuer - Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015) For the Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), see here: Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), Germany

Dörte Näkel was our host.

Pictures: Arriving at Weingut Meyer-Näkel

The Ahr Region

With only 558 hectares the Ahr region is one of smaller of Germany's 13 regions. Despite its northern location (it is for example situated north of Mosel region) it primarily (almost 90%) produces red wines. It is believed that vines were cultivated in the Ahr valley already in Roman times, as is the case with nearby Mosel. The narrow Ahr river valley is responsible for the region's favored mesoclimate.

Pictures: Vineyard Walk at Weingut Meyer-Näkel in Dernau, Ahr, with Dörte Näkel

Situated between 50° and 51° north, Ahr is the world's most northern region dominated by red wine grapes. So far north, very good sites with a warm microclimate are needed to properly ripen red wine grapes, and the Ahr vineyards are said to have a "Mediterranean" microclimate. Most vineyards are located on terraced slopes facing southwest to southeast along the middle and lower portions of river Ahr, over a stretch of 25 kilometers.

Spätburgunder is the dominant grape variety of the Ahr wine region.

Weingut Meyer Näkel

Weingut Meyer Näkel was established by the marriage of Paula Meyer and Willibald Näkel. They cultivated 1.5 hectares of vines.

In 1982, Werner Näkel changed his career from a school teacher of mathematics and sport to take over the family estate. With his pronounced feel for quality in viticulture, and great cellar skills, he created a new style for Pinot Noir in the Ahr. By the end of the 1980s, Werner Näkel had earned a reputation for his forward-looking wine-making and won numerous awards for his excellent red wines.

Today, Weingut Meyer-Näkel is managed by Werner Näkel, his wife Claudia and their daughters Meike and Dőrte. Meike and Dörte served apprenticeships in wine estates before studying viticulture in Geisenheim and joining the estate – Meike in 2005 and Dörte in 2008. Meike is focusing on the production side, while Dörte is focusing on the marketing side.

Pictures: Tasting at Weingut Meyer-Näkel in Dernau, Ahr, with Dörte Näkel

Vineyard size: 15 hectares. Production: 6 000 cases. Average yield: Less than 50 hl/hectare. Best vineyard sites: Walporzheimer Kräuterberg, Dernauer Pfarrwingert, Bad Neuenahrer Sonnenberg. Grape varieties: Pinot Noir (75%), Frühburgunder – an early ripening variety of Pinot Noir (12%), Pinot Blanc (5%), Riesling (5%), others (3%)

Dörte Näkel: We see our wines as regional ambassadors that embody the character of the sites and the people involved in the making. Fruity and mineralic wines with an elegant tannin structure grow along the Ahr’s steep slopes on slate soils. It has always been a Näkel philosophy to preserve and to accentuate the wines’ individual terroir. We achieve this with old vines, conscientious vineyard site management, consistent yield reduction and careful harvesting by hand. This is the basis for healthy, fully ripened grapes and wines full of character, great balance and intense aroma. The varietal character and quality, achieved in the vineyard site, is retained by gentle handling of the grapes in the cellar. Naturally, it also takes a whole team of motivated staff.

Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2004 (Werner Näkel was the Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2004 Winemaker of the Year): Hardly anyone in Germany has had a stronger effect on the production of high-quality red wines in Germany than Werner Näkel, whom we proclaim, to a certain extent, for the work of his lifetime to ‘Winegrower of the year 2004’… The authority of the German red wine miracle of the 90's made the Spätburgunder from the Ahr valley internationally respectable. Meanwhile, his wines, which this globetrotter produces in South Africa and Portugal, excite attention.

Werner Näkel also produces wine in South Africa and Portugal. In South Africa, it is a joint venture with Neill Ellis in Stellenbosch. In Portugal, he makes wine in the Douro valley. Here, Werner Näkel acquired together with his two friends Bernd Philippi (formerly wine estate Köhler Ruprecht/Palatinat) and the late Bernhard Breuer (wine estate George Breuer/Rheingau) the Quinta da Carvalhosa in the year 2000.

Wine Tasting


2014 Illusion Eins


2014 Spätburgunder Rose


2014 Spätburgunder
2014 Frühburgunder
2013 Spätburgunder Blauschiefer
2013 Spätburgunder “S”
2013 Neuenahrer Sonnenberg Spätburgunder GG
2013 Dernauer Pfarrwingert Spätburgunder GG
2013 Walporzheimer Kräuterberg Spätburgunder GG


Bye-bye

Thank you ver much Dörte for a wonderul vineyard walk and an exciting tasting.

Pictures: Bye-bye

Postings on the Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015) (Posted and Forthcoming)

4 Wine Tours by ombiasy coming up in 2015: Germany-East, Germany-South. Germany-Nord and Bordeaux

Fall Tours by ombiasy WineTours 2015 - A Very Special Treat: Experience Harvest Time !

Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), Germany

Tour and Tasting at Weingut Baron Knyphausen in Erbach, Rheingau - Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

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Tour and Wine Tasting with Lunch, with Mark Barth at Wein- und Sektgut Barth in Hattenheim, Rheingau– Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Tour and Tasting at Weingut Spreitzer in Oestrich, Rheingau, with Bernd Spreitzer – Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Wine Tasting at Weingut Toni Jost in Bacharach, Mittelrhein, with Cecilia Jost– Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Cruise on the Rhein River in the Mittelrhein Valley, an UNESCO World Heritage Region – Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Wine Tasting at Weingut J.J. Adeneuer in Bad Neuenahr-Ahrweiler, Ahr, with Marc Adeneuer - Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Vineyard Walk and Tasting at Weingut Meyer-Näkel in Dernau, Ahr

Wine Tasting at Weingut Dr. Loosen in Bernkastel-Kues, Mosel

Wine Tasting at Weingut St. Urbans-Hof in Leiwen, Mosel

Vineyard Tour, Tasting and Lunch at Weingut Van Volxem in Wiltingen, Saar, Mosel

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Tour and Tasting at Weingut Gut Hermannsberg, in Niederhausen, Nahe

Tour and Wine Dinner at Weingut Kruger-Rumpf in Münster-Sarmsheim, Nahe

Tour and Tasting at Sektmanufaktur Bardong in Geisenheim, Rheingau

Tour, Tasting and Lunch at Domaine Schloss Johannisberg in Geisenheim, Rheingau

Austria’s Best Red Wines - Falstaff RotweinGuide 2016

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Pictures: Christian Schiller and Christina Netzl-Archer, at Weingut Netzl in Göttelsbrunn, with her Husband Peter Artner and little Lena Artner.Weingut Netzl is this Year's Falstaff Sieger with their 2013 Anna-Christina Red Wine Cuvée. The Wine was named after Christina Netzl and her Sister Anna.

The Falstaff RotweinGuide 2016, a wine guide for Austrian red wine, was released in November 2015 in Vienna, Austria. In the Falstaff RotweinGuide 2016, around 1500 wines of around 500 winemakers are described. This key reference for Austrian wine was released for the 19th time by Peter Moser. The focus of the Falstaff RotweinGuide 2016 is on the 2013 vintage. The Falstaff RotweinGuide 2016 awarded prizes in 11 categories.

For previous years see:
Austria’s Best Red Wines - Falstaff RotweinGuide 2015
Austria’s Best Red Wines - Falstaff RotweinGuide 2014
Austria’s Best Red Wines - Falstaff RotweinGuide 2013
Austria’s Best Red Wines - Falstaff RotweinGuide 2010/2011
Wine ratings: Austria - Falstaff Top Red Wines 2009/2010

Austria’s Red Wine Boom

At first thought one might think of Austria’s climate as being quite cool for red wine. In the Alps and the western and northern reaches of the country this tends to be true. The eastern plains that border Hungary and Slovenia, however, are a different story. Yes, Austria has an international reputation for its white wines, but the reds have been improving. Like in Germany, in Austria there has been a revolution going on in terms of red wines in recent years. In both countries, red wine now accounts for about 1/3 of the wine production.

Picture: Christian Schiller with Peter Moser, Falstaff Editor-in-Chief in Frankfurt

There are 3 key Austrian red grape varieties, although other varieties are also grown, including international grape varities. Zweigelt accounts for 9.0 % of Austria’s total production, Blaufraenkisch for 5.5 % and Blauer Portugieser 5.0 %. All other red grape varieties - including the international grapes Pinot Noir, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah as well as St. Lauren - are below 2 percent each of Austria’s wine production.

Zwiegelt: The most abundant red grape; makes good wines ranging from simple cherry fruit reds to more substantial reds destined for aging.

Blaufränkisch: Common in Burgenland, this makes spicy, sturdy, berry fruited reds which can have some tannic structure. Probably Austria’s best red grape.

See:
Discover Blaufraenkisch! Top 100 Tasting in London, UK - Schiller's Favorites

Picture: Christian Schiller and Austrian Wine Marketing Boss Willi Klinger in London, UK at the Blaufränkisch Tasting

Blauer Portugieser: This red grape makes soft, approachable, juicy wines mainly for early consumption. The most widely planted red grape but not for top quality wines.

St. Laurent: Came from France in the mid-19th century, and seems to have substantial Pinot Noir parentage. It makes soft, slight herby, expressive reds; it’s a bit like Pinot Noir.

Fallstaff Sieger

Best wine overall (in terms of Falstaff points) in the Fallstaff RotweinGuide 2016 is:

2013 Anna-Christina, Weingut Netzl from Göttlesbrunn in the Carnuntum. This is a Top-Cuvée, with 92 to 94 Falstaff points.




Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller with Franz and Christine Netzl at the Netzl Estate in Austria

Pictures: Christian Schiller and Christine and Franz Neztl in Washington DC, USA

Second place goes to:

2013 Bela Rex, Weingut Albert Gesellmann from Deutschkreutz in the Burgenland. This is also Top-Cuvée.

Third place: 2013 Blaufränkisch, Winzerhof Ronald Kiss in Jois.

Picture: Falstaff Editor in Chief Peter Moser, Albert Gesellmann, Franz und Christine Netzl, Ronald Kiss, Showmaster Elke Winkens und Falstaff Editor Wolfgang Rosam (Photo: Falstaff)

Sortensieger - Specific Grape Variety Winners

For specific grape varieties, the winners are:

Blauer Zweigelt: Zweigelt Schwarz Rot 2013, Schwarz Wein, Andau – Neusiedlersee

Picture: Philipp Grassl (# 2), Weingut Schwarz (#1) and Markus Iro (#3) (Photo: Falstaff)

Blaufränkisch: Blaufränkisch Jungenberg 2013, Winzerhof Kiss, Jois – Neusiedlersee

Picture: Ronald Kiss (#1), Georg Wellanschitz (#3) and Weingut Nittnaus (#2) (Photo: Falstaff)

Cabernet Sauvignon: Cabernet Sauvignon Neuberg 2013, Winzerhof Kiss, Jois – Neusiedlersee

Picture: Erich Scheiblhofer (#3), Ronald Kiss (#1) and Robert Keringer (#2) (Photo: Falstaff)

Cuvée: Anna-Christina 2013, Weingut Franz und Christine Netzl, Göttlesbrunn – Carnuntum

Picture: Christina and Franz Netzl (#1), Albert Gesellmann (#2), René Pöckl (#3) (Photo: Falstaff)

Merlot: Merlot Optime 2013, Weingut Gerhard Pimpel, Göttlesbrunn – Carnuntum

Picture: Gerhard Pimpel (#1), Hannes Reeh (#2) and Reinhold Krutzler (#3) (Photo: Falstaff)

Pinot Noir: Pinot Noir Grand Select 2013, Weingut Wieninger, Wien

Picture: Fritz Wieninger (#1), Axel Stieglmar (Weingut Juris, #2), Gerhard Markowitsch (#3) (Photo: Falstaff)

St. Laurent: St. Laurent Reserve 2013, Weingut Stift Klosterneuburg, Klosterneuburg – Wagram

Picture: Wolfgang Hamm and Kellermeister Günther Gottfried vom Weingut Stift Klosterneuburg (#1), Philipp Grassl (#2), Fritz Wieninger (#3) (Photo: Falstaff)

Syrah: Shiraz Perfection 2013, Weingut Erich Scheiblhofer, Andau – Neusiedlersee

Picture: Weingut Artner (#3), Erich Scheiblhofer (#1) and Weingut Auer (#2)

Falstaff Reserve Trophy Winners

The Reserve Trophy is for wines that spent a bit more time in barrel or bottle.

1. Platz: M1 2012, Weingut Gerhard Markowitsch, Göttlesbrunn – Carnuntum
2. Platz (ex aequo): Salzberg 2012, Weingut Heike und Gernot Heinrich, Gols – Neusiedlersee
3. Platz (ex aequo): Cuvée Kerschbaum 2012, Weingut Paul Kerschbaum, Horitschon – Mittelburgenland

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Domaine A.-F. Gros in Beaune: Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Owner and Winemaker Mathias Parent – Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

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Picture:  At Domaine A.-F. Gros in Beaune: Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Owner and Winemaker Mathias Parent

We started the day with a tour of the Hospices de Beaune, had lunch in Beaune, and visited 2 wine producers, including tastings, in the afternoon: Joseph Drouhin and A.-F. Gros.

I already reported about the whole trip here: Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France
and the visit of the Hospices de Beaune here: Visit: Hospices de Beaune with Karoline Knoth– Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

This posting focuses on the visit of Domaine A.-F. Gros. There, we tasted wines Domaine A.-F. Gros as well as François Parent wines.

Mathias Gros was our host.

Picture: At Domaine A.-F. Gros in Beaune

Domaine A.-F. Gros

The Gros dynasty began in 1830 when Alphonse Gros married Madame Latour, settling in Vosne-Romanée in what is now the home of Jean Gros. It was he who encouraged mechanization and new viticultural techniques such as high vine training, long before they became standard practice.

The Domaine A.-F. Gros was created in 1996 when Jean and Jeanine Gros retired and divided their Domaine Gros-Renaudot among their 3 children, Michel, Bernard and Anne-Françoise. 3 new domains arose out of Jean and Jeanine Gros’ retirement: Domaine Michel Gros in Vosne Romanée, Domaine Gros Frère & Soeur directed by Bernard in Vosne Romanée, and Domaine A.-F. Gros in Pommard. In Vosne, there is also a domaine of cousin Anne Gros. So in total, there are 4 Gros domaines, all of them independent from each other.

Pictures: Domaine A.-F. Gros and François Parent Wines

Anne-Françoise married François Parent, who also brought a domaine into the marriage. Thus, today the domaine consists of Anne-Françoise’s share of Domaine Jean Gros, additional wines in and around Vosne-Romanée which she has bought or leased, and her husband’s share of Domaine Parent. Additionally, François Parent offers wines (negociant wines) under his own label, adorned with a black truffle. Anne-Françoise’s labels sport the outline of a female head.

Note that François Parent’s family domaine is Domaine Parent, right in the center of the village opposite the church. In 1998, Anne and Catherine Parent took charge of the domaine, which excludes François Parent’s part and which is now part of the A.-F. Gros domaine operation.

Pictures: Domaine A.-F. Gros in Beaune

Anne-Françoise Gros-Parent and François make wine from a staggering array of Burgundy’s best appellations, including Richebourg, Echezeaux, Vosne-Romanée, Chambolle-Musigny, Morey-St. Denis, Volnay, Pommard, Beaune and Savigny-lès-Beaune. François Parent, who is in charge of all the wines, is renowned for his wines of elegance and distinction, which are the perfect expression of French Pinot Noir. Leaning towards a bio-dynamic approach, his traditional methods of cultivating the land and tending the vines are intimately adapted to the different micro-climates, soils, and expositions of the vineyards. Natural yeast are used, with little destemming, and the wines are lightly filtered

Anne-Françoise and François live in Pommard but the winery is in Beaune.

Pictures: With Caroline Parent Gros in Pommard

The Next Generation: Caroline, Rosalie and Mathias

Anne-Françoise and François have three children: Caroline, Rosalie and Mathias.

Rosalie has nothing to do with wine, while Caroline (in her mid-30s, she has 2 children) and Mathias (in his early 20s) work side by side with their parents and are slated to eventually take over. Caroline focuses on the sales side (with her mother), while Mathias on the winemaking (with his father).

Pictures: With Mathias Parent-Gros in Beaune

Caroline has recently launched her own negociant venture and produces wines from a variety of vineyards located in both Cote de Beaune and Cote de Nuits. Part of her own venture is Pinot Angels, co-founded with Chef Hubert Keller in 2012. Hubert Keller is the owner of Fleur de Lys in San Francisco and Las Vegas. Hubert is an Alsace-born chef and a passionate Harley rider.

Pictures: Annette Schiller, Caroline Parent-Gros and Christian G.E. Schiller in Washington DC, see: xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

Tasting

After a cellar tour, Mathias Gros poured the following wines for us.

2012 Domaine A.-F. Gros Chambolle Musigny

Burghound.com: A moderately toasty nose of otherwise pure red pinot fruit and discreet spice nuances leads to seductively textured and lighly mineral-injected flavors that exude a very fine minerality on to the attractively complex and lingering finish. There isn’t quite the vibrance of the best here though this is by no means over ripe and thus my range offers the benefit of the doubt that this is simply fatigued rather than lacking in acidity.


2010 Domaine A.-F. Gros Vosne Romanee Maiziere

David Allen, MW: Delicious and ethereal from the outset with fine aromas, fresh acidity, balanced alcohol, lovely depth and superb balance.

Pictures: Tasting

2012 Domaine A.-F. Gros Savigny Les Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Guettes

Robert Parker: The 2012 Savigny-les-Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Guettes is the same age as Mathias, 23-years old and were planted with selection massale that has a proclivity to produce small grapes. This was a monopole up until 1995, when a majority of the vineyard was sold to Louis Jadot and a small part Domaine Dubois. It has a very attractive bouquet with fine delineation: dark cherries, minerals and faint marine influences coming through. The palate is finely balanced with light but tensile tannins. There is a pleasant citric note here with a tightly wound, linear, clean and fresh finish. Very fine.

2011 Domaine A.-F. Gros Pommard 1er Cru Les Pezerolles

Jancis Robinson: Dry, quite firm – very Pommard, then! It is gratifying when appellations are true to type.

2011 Francois Parent Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Les Morgeot

Burghound.com: There is a vaguely exotic character to the dried white and yellow orchard fruit aromas that continues on to the attractively rich and ever-so-slightly sweet full-bodied flavors that possess plenty of mid-palate concentration. The sweetness however is nicely buffered by the citrusy finish that delivers good length though it lacks a bit of precision. In sum, this generous effort should drink well almost immediately.


2011 Francois Parent Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru

Hachette: Les lecteurs du Guide n'ont guère eu l'occasion de découvrir le travail de François Parent sur le chardonnay. Le grand cru élu coup de cœur dans la dernière édition devait tout au pinot noir : un clos-de-vougeot. Un double statut de vigneron et de négociant permet à la maison d'élargir sa gamme. Voilà donc un corton-charlemagne, confidentiel toutefois. Or limpide aux reflets verts, ce 2011 est dominé par un boisé beurré évoquant presque le caramel, qui laisse percer une touche florale et confite. Le palais ne laisse pas non plus oublier un séjour de seize mois en fût. Il dévoile une sensation de gras et de tendre suavité équilibrée par une fine acidité. On laissera le boisé s'estomper deux ans en cave, avant de servir ce vin avec un soufflé de langouste.

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Visit: Maison Joseph Drouhin in Beaune

Domaine Faiveley in Nuits-Saint-George: Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Mathilde Nicolas (Brand Ambassador)

Wine Tasting at Domaine du Château de Prémeaux in Nuits Saint Georges with Owner and Winemaker Arnaud Pelletier 

Domaine Armelle et Bernard Rion in Vosne-Romanée: Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Bernard Rion and  Alice Rion

Domaine Guillon & Fils in Gevrey Chambertin: Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Jean-Michel Guillon

Visit: Château du Clos de Vougeot

Germany's Top 10 Winemakers (with 5 out of 5 Grapes) - The Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2016

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Picture: Annette and Christian Schiller with Hansjörg and Birgit Rebholz at Prowein 2015 in Düsseldorf

The Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland is the leading wine guide for German wine. Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland uses a scale of 1 to 5 grapes to rate winemakers and a scale of 1 to 100 points to rate their wines.

The Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2016 contains 1000 German wine producers, the 1000 best German wine makers, of which 10 received 5 grapes. Compared to 2014, one winery was demoted to 4 1/2 grapes, Weingut Emrich-Schönlber from the Nahe region. This follows the demotion of Weingut Dönnhoff, also from the Nahe region, last year. As a result, the Nahe region is no longer represented in this list.

Like last year, the demotion of Weingut Emrich-Schöleber came as a surprise to many German wine experts. In fact, Cornelius Dönnhoff, who now is in charge of the wines at Weingut Dönnhoff, was Winemaker of the Year in Stuart Pigott's list of Best Wines and Winemakers last year. See: Cornelius Dönnhoff, Weingut Dönnhoff: Stuart Pigott’s Winemaker of the Year, Germany

Ahr

None.

Baden

Bernhard Huber

One of the winemakers leading the German red wine revolution. Bernhard Huber, only 53 years old, died in June 2014, after a battle with cancer. His son, Julian Huber, has taken over. We visited Weingut Huber during the Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2014 and again in 2015. 28 hectares.

See:
Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)
Wine Tasting at Weingut Bernhard Huber– Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Picture: With Julian Huber at Weingut Bernhard Huber, Baden

Franken

Rudolf Fürst

Weingut Rudolf Fürst has the reputation of being a specialist for red wines, Spätburgunder and Früburgunder, which account for 60% of the production; but brilliant dry wines are also produced. Sebastian Fürst has taken over from his father Paul Fürst. 20.3 hectares.

We visited Weingut Rudolf Fürst during the Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015): Tasting and Tour with the Pinot Noir Legend Paul Fürst, Weingut Rudolf Fürst in Bürgstadt, Franken – Germany-East Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Picture: Paul Fürst, Annette Schiller, Sebastian Fürst and Christian Schiller at Weingut Rudolf Fürst

Hessische Bergstrasse

None.

Mittelrhein

None.

Mosel (Mosel - Saar -Ruwer)

Fritz Haag

Weingut Fritz Haag is located in Brauneberg in the Mosel Valley. It was founded in 1605. It is now run and owned by Oliver Haag and his wife Jessica Haag. Weingut Fritz Haag owns a total of 16.5 hectares of Riesling vines around Brauneberg, with 6.5 hectares within Brauneberger Juffer and 3 hectares in the Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr vineyard.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and German Winemaker Oliver Haag, Weingut Fritz Haag, in Seattle

See:
The German Winemakers at the 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle, USA

Egon Müller

The legendary Scharzhof lies on the Saar River. Egon Mueller’s fruity-sweet and noble-sweet, low alcohol wines are legendary. 16 hectares.

Picture: Annette Schiller, ombiasyPR and WineTours, and Egon Müller, Weingut Egon Müller, at the Rieslingfeier 2015 in New York City, USA, see: The 11 Winemakers: Rieslingfeier 2015 in New York City, USA

Joh. Jos. Prüm

For decades now, one of the really exceptional winemakers in Germany. The aging potential of the Weingut J.J. Prüm wines is legendary. Katharina Prüm is in the process of taking over from her father Manfred Pruem. 21 hectares.

See:
JJ Pruem Goes Supermarket: Meeting Katharina Pruem and Tasting the Incredible JJ Pruem Wines at Wegmans

We will visit Weingut JJ Prüm during the forthcoming Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2016).

Picture: Annette Schiller and Manfred Prüm, Weingut JJ Prüm

Schloss Lieser (Thomas Haag)

The latest addition to the list of 5 out of 5 grapes producers. Brother of Oliver Haag, Weingut Fritz Haag, see above. 12 hectares.

Thomas Haag, Weingut Schloss Lieser, is the 2015 Gault Millau Deutschland Winemaker of the Year, see: Thomas Haag, Weingut Schloss Lieser, Germany’s Winemaker of the Year, Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2015

We will visit Weingut Schloss Lieser during the forthcoming Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2016).

Picture: Thomas Haag, Weingut Schloss Lieser, and Christian Schiller in Mainz

Nahe

None.

Pfalz

Knipser

A world class producer of both white and red wines. Werner Knipser has been experimenting with international red grape varieties for some years. Virtually all wines are fermented in a dry style. Werner Knipser’s children Sabine Knipser and Stephan Knipser are in the process of taking over. 40 hectares.

Ökonomierat Rebholz

A broad wine portfolio with Riesling and Pinots (Blanc, Noir and Gris) as well as Chardonnay. All dry. A mover and shaker in the "Grosses Gewächs" movement. 19 hectares.

The visit of Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz was one of the highlights of the Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2014 and 2015). We will be back.

See:
Wine Tasting at Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz in Siebeldingen, Pfalz – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2014)

Picture: At Weingut Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz in 2015, with Hansjörg Rebholz

Rheingau

Robert Weil

A top producer of Riesling wines, in particular fruity sweet and noble sweet wines, well presented in the major wine markets in the world. Now co-owned by the Japanese Suntory company and General Manager Wilhelm Weil, the fourth generation of the founding family. 80 hectares.

The visit of Weingut Robert Weil was one of the highlights of the Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2014): Kiedrich: Visit of the Basilica of Saint Valentine and of Weingut Robert Weil - Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014). We will be back.

Picture: Christian Schiller, Martina Weil, Annette Schiller, Wilhelm Weil at the 2013 Rheingau Riesling Gala

Rheinhessen

Keller

Leader of the Rheinhessen wine renaissance. Has a broad wine portfolio with 60 % accounted for by Riesling and also including the lesser known autochthon Silvaner as well as Spaetburgunder. 15 hectares.

Picture: Annette Schiller, ombiasyPR and WineTours, Julia and Klaus Peter Keller at the 2015 Rieslingfeier in New York, see: The 11 Winemakers: Rieslingfeier 2015 in New York City, USA

Saale-Unstrut

None.

Sachsen

None.

Württemberg

None.

Previous Years

As for previous years, see:

Germany's Top 11 Winemakers (with 5 out of 5 Grapes) - The Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2015
Germany's Top 11 Winemakers (with 5 out of 5 Grapes) - The Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2014
Germany’s Top 10 Winemakers (with 5 Grapes) - The Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2013
Germany’s Top 10 Winemakers (with 5 Grapes) - The Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2012
Germany’s Top 9 Winemakers - the 2010 Gault Millau Wine Guide

Each year, the Gault Millau also selects a winemaker of the year, a discovery of the year, etc. See for these awards this year and previous years:

Germany’s Best Winemakers and Wines – Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2016 Awards: The Awards Ceremony in Mainz, Germany
Germany’s Best Winemakers and Wines – Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2015 Awards Ceremony in Mainz, Germany
Best German Wines and Winemakers: Gault Millau Awards – Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2014
Best German Wines and Wine Makers – the Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2013 Awards
2012: Best German Wines (Awards) – Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2012
2011: Gault Millau WeinGuide Germany 2011– Ratings
Gault Millau Wine Germany 2010

schiller-wine - Related Postings

The German Winemakers at the 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle, USA

Tasting and Tour with the Pinot Noir Legend Paul Fürst, Weingut Rudolf Fürst in Bürgstadt, Franken – Germany-East Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Wine Tasting at Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz in Siebeldingen, Pfalz – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2014)

Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Wine Tasting at Weingut Bernhard Huber– Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Thomas Haag, Weingut Schloss Lieser, Germany’s Winemaker of the Year, Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2015

JJ Pruem Goes Supermarket: Meeting Katharina Pruem and Tasting the Incredible JJ Pruem Wines at Wegmans

The 11 Winemakers: Rieslingfeier 2015 in New York City, USA

Kiedrich: Visit of the Basilica of Saint Valentine and of Weingut Robert Weil - Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Wine Paring Lunch at Restaurant Schwarzer Adler (1 Star Michelin) in Oberbergen, Kaiserstuhl, Baden – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

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Picture: With Sommelière Melanie Wagner at Restaurant Schwarzer Adler in Oberbergen, Kaiserstuhl, Baden

During the Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), we had two long luncheons at 1 star Michelin restaurants: at Röttele's Restaurant im Schloss Neuweier in Neuweier and at the legendary Restaurant Schwarzer Adler of Fritz Keller in Oberbergen. As to the former, I already reported about the spectacular luncheon cum winetasting here: Wine Pairing Lunch at Röttele’s Restaurant (1 Star Michelin) at Schloss Neuweier, with Owner and Winemaker Robert Schätzle, Weingut Schloss Neuweier - German South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2015)

Picture:  Restaurant Schwarzer Adler (1 Star Michelin) in Oberbergen, Kaiserstuhl, Baden

Before the luncheon at Restaurant Schwarzer Adler in Oberbergen, we toured Weingut Franz Keller and I reported about it here: Tour and Tasting at Weingut Franz Keller in Oberbergen, Baden – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

This posting covers the luncheon at Restaurant Schwarzer Adler.

Fritz Keller greeted us.

The Keller Family

With the Keller family, which can trace its roots as winemakers and hoteliers back to the Thirty Year War in the early 17-hundreds, everything started with producing and offering outstanding food. Franz and his wife Irma, parents of the current owner, were among the first generation of chefs to start the German revolution in the kitchen more than forty years ago. Well beyond the immediate post WWII era, the urge to simply have enough food on the table – quantity over quality- lingered on.

Pictures: Choosing the Wines with Sommelière Melanie Wagner at Restaurant Schwarzer Adler in Oberbergen, Kaiserstuhl, Baden, with Maitre de Hotel Hubert Pfingstag (who is from Alsace)

In 1969 Franz and Irma Keller and their restaurant Schwarze Adler were awarded one Michelin star, which the restaurant defends until today. For Franz Keller, the central idea of winemaking was to produce top quality wines that perfectly accompanied the creations in the kitchen. The current generation, Fritz and Bettina Keller have brought the winery to a new level. They just finished construction of a brand new winery that is an architectural landmark, beautifully integrated in the landscape. Their efforts to produce top wines, among them stunning Pinot Noirs, were acknowledged by their selection as new member of the VDP in 2013.

Pictures: Greeting from the Chef

The Fritz Keller Empire

The founder of the Keller Empire is the late Franz Keller. Franz Keller (1927 – 2007) probably was Germany’s most important early proponent of fully-fermented, dry wines and the use of barriques. He had 2 sons. One of them – Franz Keller - was initially the Chef of Restaurant Schwarzer Adler, but eventually moved to Hattenheim in the Rheingau, where he is the owner and chef at the Adlerwirtschaft. The other one – Fritz Keller – took over from his father in the 1980s and expanded the empire further.

Pictures: Gänseleber mit Aprikose und Sellerie

Today, the Keller empire comprises a luxury hotel (Hotel Schwarzer Adler in Oberbergen), 3 restaurants (the Michelin starred Schwarzer Adler, the more basic Rebstock, just across the street, and the KellerWirtschaft, which is part of the new winery), a fine wine trading company, focusing on Bordeaux and Bourgogne, Weingut Franz Keller (recently joined the VDP, the association of about 200 elite winemakers in Germany) and the Edition Fritz Keller project, a very successful trademark wine project with the discount chain Aldi.

Fritz Keller, in addition to his activity as winemaker, wine trader and restaurateur, is also president of the German football club SC Freiburg.

Pictures: Steinbutt aus dem Wildfang mit Erdnuss und Broccoli, with Maitre de Hotel Hubert Pfingstag

Restaurant Schwarzer Adler

Schwarzer Adler is a truly iconic restaurant that has been founded by Franz Keller. In the 1 star Michelin category, this traditional restaurant offers a harmonious mix of Baden country charm and elegance. The menu is a successful marriage of French and German cuisine reflecting the frontier on the nearby Rhine River, which is the border between Germany and France. The impressive wine list boasts 2 600 different wines, including a good selection of bottles from both Baden and France.

Pictures: Medaillons vom Reh aus heimischer Jagd mit Portweinsauce, Steinpilzen, Erbsenpüree und Kartoffelbällchen

Fritz Keller: Elegance, style and hospitality with a perceptible French influence create an unmistakable ambiance at our Restaurant Schwarzer Adler. In the kitchens of master chef Anibal Strubinger and Hubert Pfingstag nearby France is as present as the much-lauded local Baden cuisine. The combination of both these influences at the very highest level forms the culinary character of the house.

When I got interested in “fine dining” in the 1970s, Franz Keller’s Schwarzer Adler in Oberbergen was certainly a place one had to go and eat there. Indeed, we did this many times over the years.

Pictures: Livarot mit Kohlrabissalat und Granatapfel

Other Restaurants and Hotel Schwarzer Adler

Rebstock is a more basic restaurant, just across the street of the Schwarzer Adler, which has of course different food, but the same wine list as the Schwarzer Adler. The KellerWirtschaft, which is part of the new winery, half a mile down the road from the Schwarzer Adler.

Hotel Schwarzer Adler belongs to the group “Small Luxory Hotels in the World”. It is in the main building, where the restaurant Schwarzer Adler is and also has some rooms in a separate building.

Pictures: Pfirsich-Sorbet und Mandelparfait im weissen Schokoladenkleid

Luncheon at Restaurant Schwarzer Adler

At our last visit during the Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2014), the wines were selected by Melanie Wagner. She has been Head Sommeliere at Restaurant Schwarzer Adler since 2005. In 2010, she was Germany's Sommelier of the Year (Gault Millau). This year, we chose the wines, with the advice of Melanie Wagner and her team.

Picture: Chatting with Fritz Keller

The Menu

Greetings from the Chef

Gänseleber mit Aprikose und Sellerie

Steinbutt aus dem Wildfang mit Erdnuss und Broccoli

Medaillons vom Reh aus heimischer Jagd mit Portweinsauce, Steinpilzen, Erbsenpüree und Kartoffelbällchen

Livarot mit Kohlrabissalat und Granatapfel

Pfirsich-Sorbet und Mandelparfait im weissen Schokoladenkleid

Petits Fours

The Wines

NV Weingut Franz Keller Pinot Sekt brut

2008 Weingut Franz Keller Grauburgunder Oberrottweiler Henkenberg Spätlese trocken

2003 Domaine de Chevalier Grand Cru Classe de Grave Rouge

2001 Weingut Franz Keller Weissburgunder Selection S

2011 Weingut Franz Keller Oberbergener Bassgeige Müller-Thurgau Beerenauslese

Postings on the Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015) (Posted and Forthcoming)

4 Wine Tours by ombiasy coming up in 2015: Germany-East, Germany-South. Germany-Nord and Bordeaux

Fall Tours by ombiasy WineTours 2015 - A Very Special Treat: Experience Harvest Time !

Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Tour, Tasting (and Lunch) with Robert Schätzle, Owner and Winemaker, Weingut Schloss Neuweier in Baden– Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2015)

Wine Pairing Lunch at Röttele’s Restaurant (1 Star Michelin) at Schloss Neuweier, with Owner and Winemaker Robert Schätzle, Weingut Schloss Neuweier - German South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2015)

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Salwey in Oberrotweil, Kaiserstuhl, Baden, with Benno Salwey – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars and Wine Taverns in Freiburg, Baden, Germany

Tour and Tasting at Weingut Franz Keller in Oberbergen, Baden – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Wine Paring Lunch at Restaurant Schwarzer Adler (1 Star Michelin) in Oberbergen, Kaiserstuhl, Baden

Tour and Tasting at Weingut Bernhard Huber (VDP) in Baden, with Yquem Viehauser

Tour and Tasting at Weingut Dr. Heger (VDP) in Baden.

Tour and Tasting at Maison Léon Beyer in Eguisheim, Alsace, France, with Marc Beyer

Tour and Tasting at Domaine Weinbach in Kaysersberg, Alsace, with Catharine Faller

Wine Pairing Lunch at Wine Tavern Jülg, Weingut Jülg, in Schweigen, with Johannes Jülg

Tasting at Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz (VDP) in Siebeldingen, Pfalz

Schiller's Favorite (Wine-) Restaurants in Deidesheim in the Pfalz, Germany

Tour and Tasting at Weingut Müller-Catoir in Neustadt-Haardt, Pfalz

Tour and Tasting at Weingut A. Christmann (VDP) in Gimmeldingen, Pfalz, with Steffen Christmann

Tour and Tasting at Weingut von Winning (VDP) in Deidesheim, Pfalz

Tour and Tsting at Weingut Josef Biffar in Deidesheim, with Owner and Winemaker Fumiko Tokuoka

Wine Pairing Dinner at Restaurant FUMI at Weingut Josef Biffar in Deidesheim, with Owner and Winemaker Fumiko Tokuoka

Tour and Tasting at Weingut Markus Schneider in Ellerstadt, Pfalz, with Markus Schneider

Tour and Tasting at Weingut Koehler-Ruprecht in Kallstadt, Pfalz, with Franziska Schmitt

Tasting at Weingut Dreissigacker in Bechtheim, Rheinhessen, with Ute Dreissigacker

Tour and Wine Pairing Lunch at Weingut Eva Vollmer in Mainz-Ebersheim, Rheinhessen, with Eva Vollmer 

Hotel Restaurant Le Chevreul in Meursault, Domaine Matrot in Meursault and Domaine Remi and Nadine Marcillet in Fussey, Bourgogne

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Pictures: Off the Beaten Track - Domaine Remi and Nadine Marcillet in Fussey

The Restaurant Le Chevreul in Meursault, south of Beaune in the Bourgogne, is a little gem, with (Trip advisor): des menus et une carte des vins très bien fait. Un bon rapport qualité /prix. Un personnel très compétant, de bon conseil, une cuisine savoureuse. A conseillé.

We recently spent a night in Meursault, preparing the forthcoming Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2016). We will spend a full day and two nights in Meursault in 2016.

This time, we had a wonderful dinner at Le Chevreul. Next two us were two couples seated, who, with the evening progressing and more great wines on the table, started a conversation with us. It turned out that it was the winemaker couple Nadine and Remi Marcillet and the UK importer couple David and Lyne Hammond, who own and run “Bring Burgundy To You”. Domaine Remi and Nadine Marcillet is one of the perhaps 2 dozens producers, whose wines David and Lyne Hammond bring to the UK.

After dessert, we joined them and had another 2 bottles or so of wine together. The following day, Annette and I visited Remi and Nadine Marcillet at their domaine in Fussey.

Pictures: Annette and Christian Schiller and Remi and Nadine Marcillet having Fun at Le Chevreul in Meursault

Dinner at Le Chevreuil in Meursault

Eléonore Matrot and her husband Chef Tiago Araujo, took over the hotel and the restaurant in 2011.

Eléonore is the daughter of Pascale and Thierry Matrot from the well-known Domaine Matrot in Meursault. The Matrot domaine is one of the oldest estate-bottlers in Burgundy and one of the largest and most important properties in Meursault (22 hectares). 100% estate-bottling has been practiced at the domaine since Thierry's grandfather, Joseph Matrot, took it over in 1908.It is widely represented on the wine lists of France's greatest restaurants, and has been distributed in the United States for over thirty years.

Pictures: Hôtel Restaurant Le Chevreuil in Meursault

The Domaine Matrot wines are well represented on the wine list of Le Chevreuil.

L'Hôtel Restaurant Le Chevreuil: Au coeur du village de Meursault, l'Hôtel Restaurant Le Chevreuil, anciennement connu sous le nom Restaurant de la Mère Daugier, est un établissement historique de la capitale des grands vins blancs de Bourgogne. Créé en 1866, cette institution accueillait la célèbre Paulée de Meursault au début du siècle dernier. Eléonore et Tiago, jeune couple ambitieux, a relevé le défi de redonner une jeunesse à cet établissement. Leur objectif : que vous passiez un moment de détente et de plaisir gustatif à la hauteur de la qualité des vins de Bourgogne.

Tiago est un chef créatif et méticuleux. Il recherche de la précision dans ses plats. Les produits frais sont travaillés avec soin et passion dans le souci du respect des saveurs de chacun. Il vous propose également des plats bourguignons traditionnels et la fameuse terrine chaude de la mère Daugier, spécialité du restaurant depuis 1872. Issue d'une famille de vigneron, Eléonore est très attachée au terroir. La sélection des vins est à l'image de son amour pour la Bourgogne. Souriante, elle vous réserve un accueil chaleureux.

Pictures: Dinner at Hôtel Restaurant Le Chevreuil in Meursault

Tiago (“J'ai suivi des stages chez Troisgros, Au Chassagne et chez Bajade”) propose une cuisine semi-gastronomique à base de produits frais, de saison et de qualité : “Nous avons plusieurs menus de 26 à 58 € avec bien sûr le menu de la Mère Daugier à 29 € et, côté vins, nous avons fait évoluer la carte avec dix-huit meursaults, dix-huit premiers crus, six puligny, huit premiers crus, quelques chassagne, volnay, etc.”

Domaine Remi and Nadine Marcillet

Bringing Burgundy To You has a nice write-up about Domaine Remi and Nadine Marcillet: Proprietors, Remi and Nadine Marcillet run their Domaine totally on their own. With 10 hectares spread across Hautes-Côtes de Beaune, Hautes-Côtes de Nuits, Savigny-les-Beaune and Chorey-les-Beaune this is a huge task.

Pictures: Remi and Nadine Marcillet at Hôtel Restaurant Le Chevreuil in Meursault

Located in the picturesque village of Fussey on the borders of the Hautes-Côtes of Beaune and Nuits, their appellations include a wonderful white, fresh Aligoté, Bourgogne Chardonnay and a tiny quantity of Savigny-les-Beaune white (just one or two barrels each year, 300 to 600 bottles). Their reds include deliciously fruity Hautes-Côtes de Beaune, the more spicy Hautes-Côtes de Nuits and the typically red fruits of a Savigny-les-Beaune and a well-structured Chorey-les-Beaune. This latter wine is fermented in an open-top wooden vat and produces less than 2,000 bottles per year.

Picture: At Domaine Remi and Nadine Marcillet in Fussey

Nadine and Rémi produce around 55,000 bottles a year and the passion they bring to their winemaking is reflected in every glass. The Domaine is a true hidden secret of Burgundy and their wines offer astonishing value for money.

Pictures: In the Cellar of Domaine Marcillet with Remi Marcillet

Pictures: Tasting with Remi and Nadine Marcillet at Domaine Marcillet in Fussey

The Portfolio

The rasting notes are from David and Lyne Hammon.

Blancs

Bourgogne Aligoté

Combine with Creme de Cassis to make a wonderful Kir.

Colour: Green gold. Nose: White fruits: pear, ending with fresh lemon. Palate: Light and crisp. Very easy any time of the day or year wine.

Bourgogne Chardonnay

A very easy, fruity wine ready to drink now!

Savigny-les-Beaune

Rouges

Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Beaune

Easy, no-fuss Burgundy!

Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits

Chorey-les-Beaune

Nadine and Rémi produced just a few barrels (1500 bottles or so) of this wine with great character, packed full of fruit.

Savigny-les-Beaune

Light, elegant and gentle pinot noir, from the village of Savigny, just north of Beaune.

schiller-wine: Related Postings

Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Preview: Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2016)

Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Beaune, Bourgogne, France

The Wines of Tonnerre, France – Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Domaine Séguinot-Bordet in Maligny, Chablis: Tour and Tasting with Owner and Winemaker Jean-François Bordet – Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Domaine Brocard in Chablis: Lunch, Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Odile Van Der Moere, Responsable de Cave – Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Dinner at Hostellerie Chateau de la Barge in Creches-sur-Saone - Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Domaine Ferret in Fuissé, Poully-Fuissé, Mâconnais: Vineyard Walk, Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Cyril Laumain, Chef de Cave – Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Visit of the Abbey of Cluny and Lunch at Hostellerie d'Heloise in Cluny– Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Domaine Theulot Juillot in Mercurey, Côte Chalonnaise: Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Nathalie and Jean-Claude Theulot – Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Olivier Leflaive: Vineyard Walk and Cellar Tour, with Patrick Leflaive– Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Lunch and Winetasting at La Table de Olivier in Pouligny Montrachet– Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Wine Tasting at Domaine Mestre Père & Fils in Santenay with Jonathan Mestre - Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Visit: Domaine Bouchard Père & Fils in Beaune - Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015, France

Tasting Vintage 2010 Bouchard Père et Fils Wines with Panos Kakaviatos in Washington DC, USA

Caroline Parent-Gros Presented the Wines of Domaine A-F Gros in the Bourgogne at Chef Bryan Voltaggio’s Range in Washington DC

In the Most Prestigious AOC in the Mâconnais: Pouilly-Fuissé, France

Announcement: 5 Exciting ombiasy WineTours in 2016 - BURGUNDY BORDEAUX GERMANY










Tasting at Weingut Dautel in Württemberg with Christian Dautel - Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

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Picture: Annette Schiller and Christian Dautel

More wine is consumed in Württemberg (per capita) than anywhere else in Germany - actually twice as much as in the rest of Germany. The German poet Friedrich von Schiller wrote already several centuries ago: “A Württemberger without wine--is that a real Württemberger?”

Yet, the wines of Württemberg are very difficult to find outside of Germany. This is changing slowly, as the world is discovering the outstanding German red wines.

On this tour, we visited 4 of Württemberg’s leading producers: von Neipperg, Dautel and Herzog von Württemberg.

This posting covers the visit of Weingut Dautel, where we enjoyed an outstanding tasting. Sita Oberdorf was our host. Christian Dautel joined us.

The German Wine Guide Eichelmann lists Weingut Dautel in the top group of 25 wineries with 5 stars. Since 2005, the Gault Millau WeinGuide lists Weingut Dautel in the group with 4 grapes (with 5 grapes being the maximum).

Picture: Weingut Dautel

Wine Region Württemberg

Baden-Württemberg is one of the 16 German states that make up Germany. Baden-Wuerttemberg is one of the growth centers of Germany due to its booming export industries. Mercedes-Benz and Porsche are prime examples. Baden-Württemberg comprises two wine growing areas, Baden and Württemberg.

Wine from Württemberg is mainly red wine. The main production area is along the Neckar River between Stuttgart and Heilbronn. There are also vineyards on Lake Constance that belong to Württemberg.

More wine is consumed here (per capita) than anywhere else in Germany - actually twice as much as in the rest of Germany. The German poet Friedrich von Schiller wrote already several centuries ago: “A Württemberger without wine--is that a real Württemberger?”

The Trollinger is the most popular variety, which is grown almost exclusively in Württemberg. It is a nice table wine that goes well with the local food. If you are looking for a premium wine, Lemberger (known as Blaufränkisch in Austria and Kékfrankos in its Hungarian homeland) is the grape variety to go for. The Lemberger made by Weingut Dautel and Weingut Wachstetter, which we had during the tour, can compete with the best red wines in the world.

With 11,000 hectares under vine, Württemberg is Germany's fourth largest wine region. Winemaking cooperatives are very common in Württemberg, number around 70, and are responsible for almost 75% of the region's production.

Wines from Württemberg are hard to find in the US. This is partly explained by the production structure, which is dominated by co-operatives. These co-operatives are known for producing top class wines. But they tend to be less aggressive in terms of penetrating new markets.

Pictures: With Winemaker/Owner Christian Dautel

Weingut Dautel

Weingut Dautel is in Bönnigheim and run by Christian Dautel, with the help of his father Ernst. Ernst Dautel is in his mid-60s. He just transferred formal ownership of the winery to his son Christian, who studied at Geisenheim Collegue and after a number of internships around the world is ready to take over. Ernst Dautel also studied at Geisenheim in the 1970s and then took over from his parents, who had previously delivered their grapes to the local cooperative. In the 1970s, it was a very small operation with just 1 hectare of vines. Since then, Ernst Dautel has expanded to 10.5 hectares of vineyards, all on the eastern extension of the Stromberg hill.

Right from the beginning, Ernst Dautel went his own way. He was one of the first in Germany to ferment and age his red wine in barriques. Also, in the 1990s, he was one of the first winemakers to produce premium blends in Germany, such as the „Kreation Rot“, while Württemberg was and still is dominated by single variety wines. Also, in 1988 he started to plant Chardonnay and other international grape varieties in Germany, which was very rare at the time.

Today, red grapes account for 60%, including Lemberger, Pinot Meunier, Pinot Noir and Samtrot, and white grapes account for 40%, including Riesling, Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc. This represent - compared with the rest of Wuerttemberg - a high share of white wines.

Pictures: Tasting with Sita Oberdorfer

Vineyard

The top vineyards are the Bönnigheim Sonnenberg and the Besigheim Wurmberg.

The Bönnigheim Sonnenberg: About 1200 years ago the vineyards of Bönnigheim were officially denoted for very nutrient trassic formations in the soil. The grounds are made up of pied clay, red sandstone, and gipsum trassic. Mainly grapes for fully developed vines are maturating here. These rich grapes guarantee great maturating capabilities with a long durability.

The Besigheim Wurmberg: The shell lime terrace grounds at the southern slope of the Wurberg lay at the shore of the river Enz. With dryly set off supporting walls it was possible to build nearly horizontally leveled terraces. They provide an advantageous microclimate, which saves up a lot of humidity for a long time and releases the heat absorbed during day in the night. The rich in minerals shell lime ground generates very finess enriched and filigree wines.

Pictures: Ernst Dautel with Annette Schiller, Christian Schiller and Helmut Seufert during an earlier Visit

Cellar

In the cellar, Weingut Dautel follows a minimal intervention approach. Pumping and filtrating is kept to a minimum. The wine is made in stainless steel tanks, large wood casks (“Stückfässer”) and small barrique barrels, depending on the wine.

Picture: Barrique Cellar

Christian Dautel: “The basis for our strong and characterful red wines is a long, classic maceration. Because of their nice tannic structure, our red wines age very well. For our 4 star wines, the maceration is followed by barrel aging for almost two years, which contributes to a harmonious integration of the oak note. As for the white wines, preserving the flavors and the fine acidity are important for us. A long aging on the lees provides the finesse that characterizes our white wines. You can discover the art of "assemblage in our two white wine blends and their two red wine cuvée partners. A perfect combination of the individual notes of the different grape varieties in the blend is the secret of these great wines.”

Tasting


2013 Weingut Dautel Riesling Sekt brut
2014 Weingut Dautel Riesling Gipskeuper VDP.Ortswein
2014 Weingut Dautel Riesling Wurmberg VDP.Erste Lage
2014 Weingut Dautel Weisburgunder Gipskeuper VDP.Ortswein
2013 Weingut Dautel Riesling Grübenstein GG VDP.Grosse Lage


2013 Weingut Dautel Trollinger Terrassenlage VDP.Gutswein
2013 Weingut Dautel Spätburgunder Schilfsandstein VDP.Ortswein
2011 Weingut Dautel Spätburgunder Sonnenberg VDP.Erste Lage
2011 Weingut Dautel Spätburgunder Kalkschupen GG VDP.Grosse Lage
2011 Weingut Dautel Lemberg Sonnenberg VDP.Erste Lage
2012 Weingut Dautel Lemberg St. Michaelsfeder GG VDP.Grosse Lage
2011 Weingut Dautel Kreation Rot S


Bye-bye

Thanks Christian and Sita for an extraordinary line-up of wines.

Picture: Bye-bye

Postings: Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015) (Published and Forthcoming)

Preview: Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

The Art Marketer: OMBIASY PR & WINE TOURS - Germany-East

Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Tasting at Weingut Lützkendorf with Uwe Lützkendorf – Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Weingut Pawis (Saale Unstrut): Estate Tour and Wine Tasting with Markus Pawis – Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Weingut Thürkind in Gröst, Saale-Unstrut: Tour, Tasting and Lunch – Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Schiller's Favorite Winemakers in the Saale Unstrut Region, Germany

Weingut Schloss Proschwitz, Prinz zur Lippe, in Zadel, Sachsen: Tour and Tasting with Prinz zur Lippe – Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Dining with Prinz zur Lippe, Owner of Weingut Schloss Proschwitz, at the Lippe’sches Gutshaus - Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Weingut Karl Friedrich Aust in Radebeul, Sachsen: Tour and Lunch with Tasting – Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Visit of Weingut Klaus Zimmerling: The Wines of Klaus Zimmerling and the Art of his Wife Malgorzata Chodakoska - Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Schiller's Favorite Winemakers in Sachsen (Saxony), Germany

Tour and Tasting at Weingut Wirsching in Iphofen in Franken with General Manager Uwe Matheus– Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Visit and Tasting at Weingut Am Stein Ludwig Knoll in Würzburg, Franken - Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Tasting and Tour with the Pinot Noir Legend Paul Fürst, Weingut Rudolf Fürst in Bürgstadt, Franken– Germany-East Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Schiller’s Favorites: 2 Legendary Wine Taverns in Würzburg – Juliusspital and Bürgerspital

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Graf Neipperg in Schwaigern, Württemberg – Germany-East Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Tasting at Weingut Dautel in Württemberg with Christian Dautel

Wine Pairing Dinner at Restaurant Friedrich von Schiller in Bietigheim-Bissingen in Württemberg

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Herzog von Württemberg at Schloss Monrepos with Owner F.R.H. Carl Duke of Württemberg

Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting with Rainer Schnaitmann at Weingut Rainer Schnaitmann in Fellbach, Württemberg

Wine Tasting at Weingut Simon-Bürkle in Zwingenberg, Hessische Bergstrasse 

Tour and Tasting at Château de Fargues, Appellation Sauternes, with Prince Eudes d’Orléans – Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

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Picture: Checking on the Noble Rott at Château de Fargues, Appellation Sauternes, with Prince Eudes d’Orléans

Château de Fargues has been owned by the Lur-Saluces family since 1472. The family owned d`Yquem until 1999 and Château de Fargues is known by some critics as Château d`Yquem jnr.

Château de Fargues's 15 hectare vineyard is situated 4 kilometers southeast of Château d`Yquem and is planted with 80% Sémillon, and 15% Sauvignon Blanc. Yields are minute (lower even than Château d`Yquem) and the grapes are harvested in as many as 12 separate "tries". The grapes are fermented and the wine is subsequently aged for 3 years in one-year-old oak bariques that were previously used at Château d`Yquem. Château de Fargues's production is small with sometimes only 500 cases a year being produced.

Our host was Prince Eudes d’Orléans, 3rd in line of the throne, should a monarchy be reinstituted in France, who is the Managing Director at Château de Fargues.

Pictures: Arriving at Château de Fargues, Appellation Sauternes

Château de Fargues

Château de Fargues produces a noble-sweet Sauternes wine that was not classified in 1855 for the simple reason that the property did not make any wine at the time. After more than 500 years, the owner is still the Lur-Saluces family, which also owned Yquem for more than two hundred years. Not surprisingly, the two wines are quite close in style, if only for the reason that both wines receive identical care and attention to detail in the vineyard and in the cellar.

Pictures: Welcome at Château de Fargues, Appellation Sauternes, with Prince Eudes d’Orléans

Alexandre de Lur Saluces: At Château de Fargues, nature and man work together to produce perfectly ripe grapes subject to the capricious effects of Botrytis cinerea. This microscopic fungus concentrates and multiplies the aromas found in the two grape varieties grown at the château, while reflecting the unique characteristics of its terroir. This mysterious alchemy and an extraordinary combination of factors accounts for the rare and precious Sauternes made by Château de Fargues – an invitation to an uncommon pleasure, a delicious taste experience, a special moment to share, and a time to celebrate…

Pictures: Tour of Château de Fargues

Paradoxically, Château de Fargues has one of the shortest histories for producing sweet wine, but one of the longest of all the Sauternes châteaux. The château was built in 1306 by the Cardinal Raymond Guilhem, nephew of Bertrand de Goth, elected Pope Clement V in 1305. In 1472 Isabeau de Monferrand, heiress of Château de Fargues, married Pierre de Lur. The family name became Lur-Saluces after Jean de Lur married the daughter of the Marquis de Saluces in 1586. Today it is Alexandre de Lur-Saluces who is at the head of the property.

Wine production at the château only began in the nineteenth century. The first mention of it in the famed book on Bordeaux wines by Cocks and Feret is in 1893, and it concerns red wine. Throughout the early decades of the twentieth century, the size of the vineyard diminished. It was only around 1935 that Bertrand de Lur-Saluces, Alexandre’s uncle, planted white grapes.

Pictures: In the Vineyard of Château de Fargues, Appellation Sauternes, with Prince Eudes d’Orléans

The first vintage (1943) sold under the name Château de Fargues was bottled in 1947, and 1964 was the first year in which no Château de Fargues was produced. This is because the quest for perfection precludes making Sauternes in keeping with Fargues high standards in each and every vintage. When it is felt that quality is wanting, the painful decision is made not to bottle any wine at all under the château name. This was the case in 1972, 1974, and 1992.

Perpetuating Bertrand de Lur Saluces’ implacable focus on quality, his nephew Alexandre accelerated the estate’s transformation and renovation. As he did previously at Yquem, he refurbished and readapted all the buildings, and renewed the winemaking equipment necessary to make great Sauternes.

In 1982, he installed the first winepress adapted to grapes in Sauternes, in 1989 the ageing cellar was renovated and enlarged, in 1996 a second back-up press was acquired, in 1997 the fermentation cellar was refurbished, and in 1998 a new room was built to house the winepresses and vats. In 2005, a third winepress was put in and in 2006 a semi-underground storage cellar was constructed at the same time as new offices.

Pictures: In the Cellar of Château de Fargues, Appellation Sauternes, with Prince Eudes d’Orléans

So, from the 1930s when the first hectare and half of white wine varieties were planted, Château de Fargues had come a very long way… A few more hectares of vines were planted each decade. By the mid-1990s, the vineyard reached over 13 hectares. The average life span of the vines at Fargues is 60 to 80 years. In 2000, the first white wine vines were replanted. At Fargues, standards are such that vines need to be at least 7-8 years old to make wine worthy of the grand vin. Starting from that age, they produce grapes that, when botrytised, succeed in revealing the characteristics of each vintage.

Today the property stretches over 170 hectares, but only 17 of them are planted to vine on top of a mound near a pine forest to the east of the Fargues commune.

Pictures: Tasting with Château de Fargues, Appellation Sauternes, with Prince Eudes d’Orléans

The grape mix is 80% Semillon and 20% Sauvignon. There is a diversity of soil types here but in general the soil, like in great vineyards, is poor, composed of chalk and stony gravel with a sub-soil containing clay. The microclimate of Sauternes works its wonders here in the classic mould, but the harvest is on average 10 days later than Yquem. The production is tiny with yields even smaller than those at Yquem. All the recent vintages of the emerging 21st century have been particularly successful. The only problem remains the rarity of the wine because of the small production of only 20 000 bottles per year.

Picture: Christian Schiller and Prince Eudes d’Orléans

Wine Searcher Prices (in US$ per bottle)

2013: 175
2010: 124
2005: 095
2000: 080

Bye-bye

The visit was most interesting. Thanks Prince Eudes d’Orléans.

Pictures: Bye-bye

Château d'Yquem

After leaving Château de Fargues, we passed by Château d'Yquem.

Picture: Château d'Yquem

Postings on the Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France (Posted and Forthcoming)

4 Wine Tours by ombiasy coming up in 2015: Germany-East, Germany-South. Germany-Nord and Bordeaux

Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Bordeaux Wine Tour 2013 by ombiasy

Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Bordeaux Wines and their Classifications: The Basics

Bordeaux - En Primeur, Negociants, Courtiers, the Quai de Chartons and the Place de Bordeaux– A Short Introduction

How Does the Negociant System in Bordeaux Work? Tour and Tasting at Millésima - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Tour and Wine Dinner at Domaine de Chevalier with Director Adjoint Rémi Edange and Owner/Director Olivier Bernard – Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux City, France

Schiller's Favorite Seafood Places in Bordeaux City, France

Saint Emilion Wines and their Classification, Bordeaux, France

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in St. Emilion, France

Tour and Tasting at Château Angélus– Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Tour, Tasting and Wine Lunch at a Petit Château and Organic Producer: Château Beauséjour – Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Visit of an Ultra-premium Non-mainstream Bordeaux Producer: Tertre Rôteboeuf, with Owner and Winemaker François Mitjavile, France – Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Tour and Tasting at Château Figeac, Premier Grand Cru Classé B, in Saint-Émilion– Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Tour and Wine Lunch at Château Le Bon Pasteur, Pomerol, with Dany Rolland– Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours(2015), France

The Wine Empire of the von Neipperg Family in France, Bulgaria and Germany

Tour and Dinner at Château Canon La Gaffelière, Appellation Saint-Emilion, Premier Grand Cru Classé – Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Tour and Tasting at Château de Fargues, Sauternes, with Prince Eudes d’Orléans

Wine Lunch at Restaurant Château de la Tour in Cadillac and Tour at Château Du Cros, Loupiac, with Catherine Boyer, Proprietor of Château Du Cros

Tour and Tasting at Château Smith-Haut-Lafitte, Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé.

Lunch at the 2 Michelin Starred Restaurant La Grande Vigne

Tour of the Earl Ostrea Chanca Oyster Farm and Oyster Tasting in Grand-Piquey, with Oyster Farmer Ralph Doerfler

What is a Bordeaux Cru Bourgeois? France

Tour and Wine Dinner at Château Le Reysse, Vignobles Paeffgen, Médoc, in Bégadan, with Stefan Paeffgen

Château Léoville-Poyferré, Chateau Le Crock, Didier Cuvelier in Bordeaux and the Cuvelier Los Andes Wines in Argentina

Tour and Tasting at Château Léoville Poyferré, Saint-Julien, 2ième Grand Cru Classé, with Didier Cuvelier

Tour and Wine Lunch at Château Pichon-Longueville-Baron, Pauillac, 2ième Grand Cru Classé

The 5 Premiers Grands Crus Chateaux en 1855 of Bordeaux, France

Tour and Tasting at Château Mouton-Rothschild, Pauillac, 1ière Grand Cru Classé.

How a Barrel is Made: Visit of the Cooperage Berger & Fils in Vertheuil

Lunch at Restaurant Le Peyrat in Saint-Estèphe with the Grape Pickers of Château Sociando Mallet

Tour and Tasting at Château Lafon-Rochet, Saint-Estèphe, 4ième Grand Cru Classé, with Owner Basile Tesseron

Tour and Tasting at Château Rauzan-Ségla, Margaux, 2ième Grand Cru Classé

Tourt and tasting at Château Palmer, Margaux, 3ième Grand Cru Classé

Tour and Wine Dinner at Château Haut-Bailly, Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé, with Diana Paulin 

Wine Tasting at Weingut Dr. Loosen in Bernkastel-Kues, Mosel – Germany-North by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

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Picture: Impressive Line-up at Weingut Dr. Loosen in Bernhastel-Kues, Mosel

The Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), organized and led by Annette Schiller, took place from September 6 – 12, 2015. The group was small - there were 7 of us, including Annette and Christian Schiller.

The tour took us to the Rheingau, Mittelrhein, Ahr, Mosel and Nahe. In the Mosel area (Mosel – Saar – Ruwer), we visited 3 producers: Dr. Loosen, St. Urbans-Hof Nik Weis and Van Volxem (Saar).

This posting covers the visit of Weingut Dr. Loosen. For the Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), see here: Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), Germany

Ernst Loosen has become a global player, with the Mosel Valley remaining his home base.

Markus Schulte was our host; Ernst Loosen was in Switzerland.

Pictures: Arriving at Weingut Dr. Loosen

Ernst Loosen in the World

Ernst Loosen is a winemaker based in Germany, who, broadly speaking, now makes 4 different wines in Germany and the USA: First, Mosel Valley Rieslings, traditionally fruity-sweet that made him so famous in the world, but increasingly dry; second, Pinot Noirs and other wines from the Pfalz, all dry, where he owns Weingut J.L. Wolf; third, the J. Christopher Wines, a collaboration of Ernst Loosen and Jay Somers, mainly Pinot Noir, from Oregon and fourth, the Eroica Riesling wines, a collaboration between Dr. Loosen and Chateau Ste. Michelle, the giant wine producer, in Washington State. In addition, jointly with his brother, Ernst Loosen is an importer in the US of German, but also other wines.

Pictures: Tête-à-tête dinner at Rasika with Ernst Loosen, Washington Post Wine Columnist Dave McIntyre, Rasika Sommelier Paul Ruttiman, Annette Schiller and me.

Ernst Loosen in the Mosel Valley

The wines of Weingut Dr. Loosen are known all around the world as prime examples of Germany’s famous delicious low alcohol, fruity-sweet Rieslings from the Mosel. These are exceptional wines, skillfully made by first-class winemakers like Ernst Loosen, essentially made by not letting the fermentation going its full course so that natural sugar remains in the wine. Alternatively, German winemakers are allowed to add sweet-reserve (sterilized grape juice) to increase the sweetness level in the wine, but today, this is mostly done, if at all, for fine tuning the residual sweetness. These fruity-sweet wines are the wines that are so popular among the fans of German wine in the world.

Pictures: In the Private Rooms of the Loosen Residence

But today, wine loving Germans drink dry. There is no doubt about it. The large majority of the premium wines produced in Germany is dry. And the German (dry) grand cru Rieslings can compete with the best wines in the world. The word is getting around - slowly but surely - and more and more dry German Rieslings appear on the international market.

“While in Germany the demand for my fruity sweet wines is low, the Grosses Gewächs wines are very high in demand. In the US, it is the other way around” said Ernst a couple of years ago. But this is changing and Ernst Loosen has started to aggressively market his dry wines, both entry level and ultra-premium, in the US market.

Weingut Dr. Loosen is located just outside Bernkastel in the Mosel wine region. The vineyard area totals 22 hectares. Production amounts to 15.000 cases.

Ernst Loosen was Germany’s Winemaker of the Year in 2001 (Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland).

The American Wine Portfolio of Weingut Dr. Loosen

Markus Schulte explained to us that the Dr. Loosen wines available in the American market can be grouped into 3 quality categories.

Single Vineyard Wines

These are wines from the premium vineyards of Weingut Dr. Ernst Loosen. In fact, all of Weingut Dr. Loosen’s six major vineyards were designated as Grosse Lage (grand cru) in the 1868 Prussian classification of Mosel vineyards, which was undertaken for tax assessment purposes. This classification predates the grand cru system in Burgundy, and was updated by Stuart Pigott and Hugh Johnson in the Wine Atlas of Germany (1995). “We use this historically proven classification at Dr. Loosen. Only wines from the six top-rated sites (indicated on the map to the right) are bottled with a single-vineyard designation. All others are labeled simply as estate wines” Markus Schulte said.

Berkasteler Lay, Wehlener Sonnenuhr, Graacher Himmelreich, Ürziger Würzgarten, Erdener Prälat, Erdener Treppchen - A full range of Prädikat wines is made from the six grand cru single-vineyard sites. In addition, Weingut Loosen makes Grosses Gewaechs wines – ultra premium dry wines from these exceptional vineyards.

Markus Schulte explained that the vineyards of Weingut Dr. Loosen owe their excellent quality to three major factors: the exceptional regional climate of the Middle Mosel area, the mineral-rich slate and volcanic soils, and the incredible age of the estate’s ungrafted Riesling vines. These elements are the building blocks of each vineyard’s terroir and have long been recognized for their importance in producing outstanding wines.

Estate Wines

All the grapes that do not go into single vineyard wines are used for the 2 Estate Wines, Blue Slate and Red Slate. In the USA, Ernst offers a dry Red Slate wine and a fruity sweet (Kabinett) Blue Slate wine.

The Red Slate Riesling is sourced from parcels in Uerzig and Erden, while the Blue Slate Riesling is sourced from vineyards in Bernkastel, Graach and Wehlen, where the soil is pure blue slate.

Pictures: Ernst Loosen, Annette Schiller and Christian Schiller Tasting at Weingut Dr. Loosen at a Previous Visit

Dr. L

Dr. L is Ernst Loosen’s hugely popular entry-level wine. It is made with grapes bought from other grape growers in the Mosel Valley. As a new development, Weingut Dr. Loosen now offers two Dr. L wines, one with some residual sweetness and one dry. The latter was introduced to the American market just recently.

Ernst Loosen in Oregon

Ernst Loosen’s most recent project is a joint venture with Jay Somers in Oregon. Located in Oregon’s Northern Willamette Valley, J. Christopher Wines is a small winery that specializes in Pinot Noir made in the traditional style of Burgundy. The winery also produces Sauvignon Blanc modeled after the great wines of Sancerre. The philosophy at J. Christopher is to produce wines in an Old World style that emphasizes focus, length and balance. Jay Somers is not only a gifted winemaker, but also a killer guitarist.

Jay Somers is not only a gifted winemaker, but also a killer guitarist.

Picture: Christian Schiller at the J. Christopher Winery

Ernst Loosen in the Pfalz

In 1996, Ernst Loosen took over the J.L. Wolf estate so that he could make traditionally crafted Pfalz wines to complement the light and elegant Dr. Loosen Rieslings he produces in the Mosel. In the classic style of the Pfalz, these wines are more full-bodied than Mosel wines, with higher alcohol and rich flavors of ripe fruit and stone.

Ernst Loosen in Washington State

Promoting the worldwide ascendancy of Riesling was a big reason why Ernst Loosen began a joint venture with Chateau Ste. Michelle in Washington State a bit more than 10 years ago. He was convinced that it would take a seriously good New World Riesling to help bring the variety back to the forefront. Eroica was launched in 1999. Named for Beethoven’s Third Symphony, Eroica is supposed to reflect not only its variety and site, but also its heritage: bold and forward from its Washington roots, elegant and refined from German inspiration.

The wine is made at Chateau Ste. Michelle from grapes grown in the Columbia Valley. They make three kinds of the Eroica. The regular Eroica, an icewine and a single berry selection. The latter is made in the traditional German Trockenbeerenauslese (TBA) style and is one of the few TBAs in North America.

Pictures: Winemaker Bob Bertheau of Chateau Ste. Michelle and Ernst Loosen, with Dr. Ulrich Fischer at the Farewell Reception of the 2013 Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle, Washington State.

Loosen Bros. Imports in the USA

Ernst Loosen is not only a producer of wines, but also runs – with his brother Thomas Loosen - an import company, with a remarkable portfolio.

Dr. Loosen (Mosel, Germany),
Villa Wolf (Pfalz, Germany)
Weingut Robert Weil (Rheingau, Germany),
Weingut Fritz Haag (Mosel, Germany),
C. von Schubert - Maximin Grünhaus (Ruwer, Germany),
Weingut Wittmann (Rheinhessen, Germany)
Domaine de Bellene and Maison Roche de Bellene (Burgundy, France),
Gantenbein (Graubünden, Switzerland)
Bodegas Nuñez (Spain) and
J. Christopher Wines (Willamette Valley, Oregon)

Pictures: Tasting with Markus Schulte at Weingut Dr. Loosen

Tasting

2014 Dr. Loosen Blauschiefer Riesling trocken
2014 Dr. Loosen Rotschiefer Riesling trocken
2013 Dr. Loosen Graacher Riesling trocken
2014 Dr. Loosen Blauschiefer Riesling trocken
2013 Dr. Loosen Bernkasteler Lay Riesling trocken GG
2013 Dr. Loosen Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling trocken GG Alte Reben


2013 Dr. Loosen Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling trocken GG Alte Reben
2011 Dr. Loosen Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling trocken GG Reserve


2013 Dr. Loosen Graacher Himmelreich Riesling feinherb
2014 Dr. Loosen Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett
2014 Dr. Loosen Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese
2014 Dr. Loosen Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese
2009 Dr. Loosen Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling TBA


Bye-bye

On the way out, we had a chance to take a look at Ernst's Oldtimers.


Pictures: Inspecting Ernst Loosen's Oldtimers

schiller-wine: Related Postings (Ernst Loosen)

Riesling from Germany and Pinot Noir from Oregon: A Winemaker Dinner with Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen and J.Christopher Wines, at Black Salt in Washington DC

Riesling, Pinot Noir and Indian Cuisine: A tête-à-tête Dinner with Winemaker Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at Rasika in Washington DC, USA

Ernst Loosen and Dr. L. Riesling - His Hugely Popular Entry-level Wine Sold Throughout the World

The Doctor Made a House Call - A Tasting with Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at MacArthur Beverages in Washington DC, USA

A Riesling Guru and a Killer Guitarist cum Cult Winemaker: Ernst Loosen and Jay Somers and their J. Christopher Winery in Newberg, Oregon
 
Wine ratings: Two American/German wines - Eroica and Poet's Leap - on Top 100 Wines from Washington State list for 2009

German American Wines: (1) Pacific Rim Riesling (2) Eroica and (3) Woelffer's Schillerwein

The German Winemakers at the 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle, USA

Riesling Revolution in China: Weingut Dr. Loosen, Germany, Domaine Hugel et Fils, Alsace and Jim Barry, Australia - China Tour to Promote Riesling

A Riesling Guru and a Killer Guitarist cum Cult Winemaker: Ernst Loosen and Jay Somers and their J. Christopher Winery in Newberg, Oregon

Ernst Loosen Presented his Wines at Weingut Dr. Loosen, Bernkastel-Kues, Mosel Valley, Germany

The World of Riesling in Seattle - Fourth Riesling Rendezvous in Washington State, USA

On the Way from Düsseldorf, Germany, to Portland, Oregon: Winemaker Jay Somers, J. Christopher Wines, Stops in Northern Virginia, USA

Postings on the Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015) (Posted and Forthcoming)

4 Wine Tours by ombiasy coming up in 2015: Germany-East, Germany-South. Germany-Nord and Bordeaux

Fall Tours by ombiasy WineTours 2015 - A Very Special Treat: Experience Harvest Time !

Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), Germany

Tour and Tasting at Weingut Baron Knyphausen in Erbach, Rheingau - Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Wine and Music at Eberbach Abbey in the Rheingau - Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Tour and Wine Tasting with Lunch, with Mark Barth at Wein- und Sektgut Barth in Hattenheim, Rheingau– Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Tour and Tasting at Weingut Spreitzer in Oestrich, Rheingau, with Bernd Spreitzer – Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Wine Tasting at Weingut Toni Jost in Bacharach, Mittelrhein, with Cecilia Jost– Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Cruise on the Rhein River in the Mittelrhein Valley, an UNESCO World Heritage Region – Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Wine Tasting at Weingut J.J. Adeneuer in Bad Neuenahr-Ahrweiler, Ahr, with Marc Adeneuer - Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Vineyard Walk and Tasting at Weingut Meyer-Näkel in Dernau, Ahr, with Dörte Näkel– Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Wine Tasting at Weingut Dr. Loosen in Bernkastel-Kues, Mosel

Wine Tasting at Weingut St. Urbans-Hof in Leiwen, Mosel

Vineyard Tour, Tasting and Lunch at Weingut Van Volxem in Wiltingen, Saar, Mosel

Wine Tasting at Weingut Hexamer, in Monzingen, Nahe

Tour and Tasting at Weingut Gut Hermannsberg, in Niederhausen, Nahe

Tour and Wine Dinner at Weingut Kruger-Rumpf in Münster-Sarmsheim, Nahe

Tour and Tasting at Sektmanufaktur Bardong in Geisenheim, Rheingau

Tour, Tasting and Lunch at Domaine Schloss Johannisberg in Geisenheim, Rheingau 


The Best German Red Wines - Deutscher Rotweinpreis 2015 (German Red Wine Awards 2015)

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Picture: Christian Schiller and Joachim Heger, Weingut Dr. Heger, see: Visit: Weingut Dr. Heger in Baden – Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

The annual German Red Wine Competition (Deutscher Rotweinpreis), organized by the international wine magazine Vinum, exists since 1987. At that time, German red wine accounted for only about 15 percent of German wine output. Today, we are well over 35 percent. And not only the vineyard area planted with red grapes has expanded dramatically, but also the quality has improved considerably. Today, German red wine can compete with any red wine in the world, I believe. As a result, German red wines are increasingly appearing in the international wine market. Of course, given its location, they tend to be not like the fruity red wines we know from warmer countries, but lean and more elegant, with a lot of finesse.

Picture: Deutscher Rotweinpreis 2015

About 1500 wines were submitted for the competition. The wines were grouped into 8 categories. For each category, the winner (“Sieger”) and the 2 runners-up (2. Platz and 3. Platz) were announced.

Württemberg was able to place 8 wines in the top-3 lists, the Pfalz 6 wines, Baden 5 wines, the Ahr 2 wines and Rheinhessen and Franken 1 wine each. 4 of the #1 wines are from Württemberg and 4 from the Pfalz. Baden was able to wine once.

Pictures: Awards Ceremony (Photos: Steffen Röll)

Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir)

Sieger 2013 Pinot Noir "Steinrassel" Pfalz Weingut Matthias Gaul
2. Platz 2013 Achkarrer Schlossberg Großes Gewächs Baden Weingut Heger
3. Platz 2012 Pinot Noir "R" Ahr Winzergenossenschaft Mayschoß-Altenahr

Cuvées

Sieger 2012 Nicodemus Hades Württemberg Weingut Jürgen Ellwanger und 2009 Das Kreuz Pfalz Weingut Rings
3. Platz 2013 NaaN Baden Weingut Seeger

Pictures: Andreas Rings, Weingut Rings, and Annette and Christian Schiller in Frankfurt, Germany

Unterschätzte Sorten (Underrated Varieties)

Sieger 2012 Portugieser Réserve Pfalz Weingut Rings
2. Platz 2013 Trollinger "Edition P" Württemberg Fellbacher Weingärtner
und 2012 Portugieser Réserve Pfalz Jürgen Krebs

Deutsche Klassiker

Sieger 2012 St. Laurent Réserve Pfalz Weingut Philipp Kuhn
2. Platz 2012 St. Laurent Rheinhessen Weingut Neef-Emmich
3. Platz 2013 Frühburgunder Großes Gewächs Ahr Weingut Kreuzberg

Internationale Klassiker

Sieger 2012 Syrah Großheppacher Wanne Württemberg Weingut Bernhard Ellwanger
2. Platz 2013 Syrah Baden Weingut Fritz Waßmer
3. Platz 2012 Cabernet Franc Pfalz Philipp Kuhn

Lemberger

Sieger 2013 Stettener Mönchberg Großes Gewächs Württemberg Weingut Karl Haidle
2. Platz 2012 Stettener Mönchberg Großes Gewächs Württemberg Weingut Karl Haidle
3. Platz 2013 Blaufränkisch "R" Baden Weingut Seeger

Picture: 2013 Stettener Mönchberg Großes Gewächs Württemberg Weingut Karl Haidle (Photo: Weingut Haidle)

Neuzüchtungen (New Varieties)

Sieger 2012 Dornfelder "Anton" Baden Weingut Harald Stelz
2. Platz 2011 Zweigelt Réserve Württemberg Weingut Klopfer
3. Platz 2012 Zweigelt "Goldadler" Korber Sonnenhalde Württemberg Weingut Zimmerle

Edelsüß (Noble-sweet)

Sieger 2012 Eiswein Spätburgunder Weißherbst Fellbacher Goldberg Württemberg Fellbacher Weingärtner
2. Platz 2013 Spätburgunder Trockenbeerenauslese Randersackerer Sonnenstuhl Franken Weingut Störrlein & Krenig

Schiller-wine - Related Postings

Weingut Freiherr von Gleichenstein in Baden: Tour and Tasting with Baron Johannes von Gleichenstein– Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014), Germany

Weingut Franz Keller in Oberbergen, Kaiserstuhl, Baden: Cellar Tour and Tasting with Fritz Keller– Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Wine Tasting at Weingut Bernhard Huber– Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Visit: Weingut Dr. Heger in Baden – Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Weingut Karl-Heinz Johner in Baden: Cellar Tour and Tasting with Karl-Heinz and Patrick Johner – Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Wine Tasting at Weingut Friedrich Becker – Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

The Tim Atkin Pinot Noir Taste-Off of October 2011: Germany Versus the Rest of the World - German Red Wines Show Strong Performance

Surprising the World with their Pinot Noir: Johannes and Christoph Thoerle, Winzerhof Thoerle, Rheinhessen, Germany

Weingut Huber: One of the Fathers of the German Red Wine Revolution: Weingut Huber in Baden

A Pinot Noir Star: Visiting August Kesseler and his Weingut August Kesseler in Assmannshausen, Germany

At the Frankfurt Christmas Market, 2015, Germany

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Picture: Frankfurt Christmas Market

During the holiday season, Christmas Markets are held in cities, towns and villages throughout the country. Here you can buy all kinds of Christmas merchandise and gifts, especially traditional things such as crib figurines, toys, wood carvings, marionettes, candles and lambskin shoes to place underneath your traditional Christmas tree. Many are difficult to resist - as will be the glass of delicious mulled wine you are offered.

The ambience of a typical German Christmas Market is further enhanced by the aromas of hot chestnuts, grilled sausages and other tasty snacks. Youngsters especially will be attracted to the gingerbread biscuits known as Lebkuchen, marzipan figures and other sweets.

Pictures: Annette and Christian Schiller, Katharina Schiller, Cornelia, Viatrix and Chris Tremann, Joelle, Benjamin, Lorelei and Otto Schiller at Christmas Market 2015 in Frankfurt, Germany

Glühwein is made from red wine that was heated and spiced with cinnamon, citrus, vanilla pods, cloves and sugar. In Frankfurt am Main, the base wine can be applewine (hard cider).

Picture: Christian, Annette, Katharina, Benjamin, Lorelei and Otto Schiller at Frankfurt Christmas Market in 2013

Most Christmas Markets start in the last week of November and run through to Christmas Eve or a day or two before. They are usually open every day from 10am to about 8 or 9 pm.

With the family meeting in Frankfurt, Germany, for the 2015 Christmas, the Frankfurt Christmas market was our natural choice this year, althugh we started the 2015 Christmas Market Season in Mainz.

Pictures: At the Mainz Christmas Market in 2015

Yesterday evening, on the historic market square in Frankfurt, against the imposing back-drop of the over thousand year old Cathedral of Frankfurt am Main and the Roemer (Mayor’s Office), the air was scented with a Christmassy mixture of roast almonds, gingerbread, hot chestnuts and mulled wine. Large and small visitors gladly let themselves be enchanted by this pre-Christmas atmosphere. On a stroll through the Frankfurt Christmas Market, the stress and hectic pace of everyday life were quickly forgotten.

Pictures: Benjamin and Lorelei Schiller on a Carrusel in 2013

schiller-wine - Related Postings

Wine in Frankfurt am Main? - Weingut der Stadt Frankfurt, Germany

Winemaker Dinner with John Kolasa (Château Canon und Château Rauzan Ségla) and Wine Journalist Panos Kakaviatos at Restaurant Le Français in Frankfurt, Germany

15 Gault Millau Points in Offenbach – Restaurant schauMahl, Germany

Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Top Restaurants in the Greater Frankfurt Area– Michelin and Gault/Millau Favorites (2016), Germany

Impressions from the Apple Wine Festival 2013 in Frankfurt am Main, Germany

In the Glass: Gluehwein at Frankfurt am Main Christmas Market

The Premium Apple Wines of Andreas Schneider - Obsthof am Steinberg - in Frankfurt am Main, Germany

Apple Wine Tavern Zur Buchscheer in Frankfurt am Main, Germany – The Traditional Way: Apple Wine Made on the Premises

Apple Wine in Frankfurt am Main, Germany and Cider in the World

Schiller's Favorite Apple Wine Taverns in Frankfurt am Main, Germany

In an Apple Wine (Cider) Mecca: The Apple Wine Bistrorant Landsteiner Muehle of Apple Wine Sommelier Michael Stoeckl near Frankfurt am Main, Germany

An Apple Wine Tavern as Traditional as can be in Frankfurt am Main: “Zu den 3 Steubern” of Wolfgang Wagner, Germany

Mainlust “Desche Otto”– an Ultra Traditional Apple Wine Tavern, with an Innovative Twist, off the Beaten Track in Schwanheim, Frankfurt am Main, Germany

(German) Winemakers in the World: The German Roots of the Baron Philippe de Rothschild Empire)








Visit and Tasting: Maison Joseph Drouhin in Beaune – Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

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Pictures: At Maison Joseph Drouhin in Beaune

The visit of and tasting at Maison Joseph Drouhin, right in the center of Beane, was the last event of an exciting day.

We started the day with a tour of the Hospices de Beaune, had lunch in Beaune, and visited 2 wine producers, including tastings, in the afternoon: Joseph Drouhin and A.-F. Gros.

I already reported about the whole trip, the visit of the Hospices de Beaune and the visit of Domaine A.-F. Gros here:

Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Visit: Hospices de Beaune with Karoline Knoth– Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Domaine A.-F. Gros in Beaune: Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Owner and Winemaker Mathias Parent – Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

This posting focuses on Maison Joseph Drouhin.

Maison Joseph Drouhin

Originally from the Yonne department, Joseph Drouhin founded the négociant company which bears his name in 1880. His son Maurice took over in 1918, buying the first vineyards including the famous Beaune Clos des Mouches. Maurice Drouhin was a significant personality in Beaune, sitting on the INAO committee and acting as Deputy Administrator of the Hospices de Beaune, including during the troubled period of World War II.

Pictures: 1 Cour du Parlement de Bourgogne, Maison Joseph Drouhin

His successor was his nephew and adopted heir Robert Jeausset-Drouhin who took charge in 1957.

Today, the fourth generation is at the helm. Robert Jeausset-Drouhin Drouhin now retains a surveillance role while his children Frédéric (managing director), Laurent (export markets), Philippe (vineyards) and Véronique (oenology and Domaine Drouhin Oregon) run the business.

With its 73 hectares, the Joseph Drouhin Domaine is one of the largest estates in the region. It owns vineyards all over Burgundy: Chablis (38 hectares), Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune, (32 hectares), Côte Chalonnaise (3 hectares). It is comprised of a majority of Premier and Grand Crus. With close to 90 different appellations, Joseph Drouhin offers a fascinating array of Burgundy terroirs.

Twenty years after Philippe Drouhin first began introducing organic practices, Maison Joseph Drouhin was awarded organic certification for all vineyards it owns, beginning with the 2009 vintage.

Long-time oenologist Laurence Jobard, engaged by Robert Drouhin in 1973, retired after the 2005 vintage and was replaced by Jérome Faure-Brac, a trained oenologist previously with Bichot, while Véronique Drouhin remains on hand to provide continuity of style.

A balance of tradition and modern techniques characterizes Maison Joseph Drouhin’s winemaking and vineyard management: on site nursery, plowing, leaf removal, 100% hand harvesting, open fermenters, fermenting and aging in oak.

The red wines are pre-macerated at 13-15º Celsius, with a very light punching down at the start followed by alternating punching down and pumping over, depending also on the needs of the vintage. The aim is to privilege the fruit in the wine, and to this end bottling is earlier than for most producers.

Tour

We enjoyed a guided tour through Beaune’s most ancient cellars followed by the tasting of 6 emblematic wines from Maison Joseph Drouhin.

At 1 Cour du Parlement de Bourgogne, the Maison Joseph Drouhin cellars are located right in the heart of Beaune.

These historic cellars cover approximately 1 hectare beneath the historic center of Beaune between the Hospice de Beaune and Notre-dame Church. These aren’t just ordinary cellars mind you; they have a bit of age on them. Once part of the original cellars of the Duke of Burgundy’s Parliament, they date back to the 13th century.

Picture: In the Cellar

The Drouhin cellars read like a history book, with many architectural elements dating back to the 10th century. You’ll get a peek at a wine press from 1570 (still used to press grapes on occasion); and the Liberty Door through which Maurice Drouhin escaped from the Gestapo during World War II. Even the tasting room is walled in history –partially composed of an ancient Roman wall.

Of course you won’t be the first visitor to grace these cellars. America’s favorite oenophile, Thomas Jefferson, is said to have toured these finely mold covered spaces during his travels in France.

Tasting

We tasted 6 wines.


2011 Maison Joseph Drouhin Chablis Premier Cru

2009 Maison Joseph Drouhin Chassagne-Montrachet

2011 Maison Joseph Drouhin Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru


2012 Maison Joseph Drouhin Côte de Beaune 

2008 Maison Joseph Drouhin Nuits-Saint-Georges Damodes Premier Cru

1996 Maison Joseph Drouhin Beaune Clos de Mouches


Postings on the Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France (Posted and Forthcoming)

Preview: Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015 and 2016)

Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Champagne Jean Josselin in Gyé-sur-Seine: Tour and Tasting with Jean Pierre Josselin - Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

The Wines of Tonnerre, France – Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Domaine Séguinot-Bordet in Maligny, Chablis: Tour and Tasting with Owner and Winemaker Jean-François Bordet – Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Domaine Brocard in Chablis: Lunch, Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Odile Van Der Moere, Responsable de Cave – Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Dinner at Hostellerie Chateau de la Barge in Creches-sur-Saone - Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Domaine Ferret in Fuissé, Poully-Fuissé, Mâconnais: Vineyard Walk, Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Cyril Laumain, Chef de Cave – Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Visit of the Abbey of Cluny and Lunch at Hostellerie d'Heloise in Cluny– Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Domaine Theulot Juillot in Mercurey, Côte Chalonnaise: Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Nathalie and Jean-Claude Theulot – Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Olivier Leflaive: Vineyard Walk and Cellar Tour, with Patrick Leflaive– Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Lunch and Winetasting at La Table de Olivier in Pouligny Montrachet– Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Wine Tasting at Domaine Mestre Père & Fils in Santenay with Jonathan Mestre - Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Visit: Domaine Bouchard Père & Fils in Beaune - Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015, France

Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Beaune, Bourgogne, France

Visit: Hospices de Beaune with Karoline Knoth– Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Domaine A.-F. Gros in Beaune: Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Owner and Winemaker Mathias Parent – Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Visit: Maison Joseph Drouhin in Beaune

Domaine Faiveley in Nuits-Saint-George: Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Mathilde Nicolas (Brand Ambassador)

Wine Tasting at Domaine du Château de Prémeaux in Nuits Saint Georges with Owner and Winemaker Arnaud Pelletier 

Domaine Armelle et Bernard Rion in Vosne-Romanée: Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Bernard Rion and  Alice Rion

Domaine Guillon & Fils in Gevrey Chambertin: Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Jean-Michel Guillon

Visit: Château du Clos de Vougeot


At Weingut Matthias Müller, Mittelrhein, with Traubenhaus, their US-Importer, Germany

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Pictures: The Traubenhaus Team Paul Steinbach and Justin Bryan and the ombiasy Team Annette and Christian Schiller Visiting Weingut Matthias Müller, with Matthias and Johannes Müller

Traubenhaus is a relatively new, Texas-based importer of German wine. The two key-persons in the company are Germany-based Paul Steinbach and Texas-based Justin Bryan. They met a few years ago in Germany, when Justin was working in Germany, and decided to create a German wine import company in Texas. The company has an interesting and expanding portfolio. Ultimately, they want to become the leading importer of German wine in the US, with winemakers from all 13 German wine regions in their portfolio, said Paul.

Pictures: Bopparder Hamm

Recently, the 2 of them visited their German producers and invited me to join them. I was able to come along on their visit of Weingut Matthias Müller in Spay in the Mittelrhein.

Annette Schiller also came along, as she plans to include a tasting at Weingut Matthias Müller in her forthcoming Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2016). We were also joined by our daughter Cornelia Treman-Schiller and her husband Chris and daughter Viatrix, who are based in China and were visiting Germany for Christmas.

Johannes Müller was our host. We met Matthias Müller in the wine cellar.

Pictures: Weingut Matthias Müller in Spay, with Viatrix Tremann

Traubenhaus

Traubenhaus: Our selection of German wine, most of which was previously unavailable in the United States, represents a wide range of grape varietals and styles from top producers. Each wine is specially curated by our resident German wine expert, Paul Steinbach, to provide a characteristic German wine experience. Handmade, natural, exceptional—these are all qualities you can expect from the German wine presented by Traubenhaus.

Pictures: The New Entertainment Areas at Weingut Matthias Müller in Spay

Weingut Matthias Müller (Traubenhaus)

Traubenhaus: The family of the winery (“weingut”) Matthias Müller has worked the Bopparder Hamm vineyards of the Mittelrhein region for over 300 years. The Bopparder Hamm vineyards are steep slate tracts in the Mittelrhein classified with the highest possible rank of “grand.” Weingut Matthias Müller cultivates its vineyards according to stringent guidelines which require intensive hand work and selective harvesting to produce their Riesling which comprises 92% of Matthias Müller’s total plantings. Weingut Matthias Müller is a member of the exclusive VDP and has earned international recognition through the years including recently when awarded Gault & Millau’s highest honor, “Winery of the Year 2012.”

Pictures: Matthias Müller, Winemaker of the Year (Gault Millau WeinGuide 2012) and Christian Schiller, see: 2012: Best German Wines (Awards) – Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2012

Weingut Matthias Müller sits amidst beautiful and romantic stretches that are some of the most magnificent in the world. The entire region is a UNESCO World Heritage Site characterized by hills and the wide Rhein River where castles spring from behind every bend of the winding Rhein. Weingut Matthias Müller is an icon in the Mittelrhein region and considered by many, including Gault & Millau, to be the very finest in the Mittelrhein, (best producer in Mittelrhein, Gault & Millau 2013).

Pictures: In the Cellar with Johannes Müller

Weingut Matthias Müller

Weingut Matthias Müller is in Spay in the Mittelrhein Region. The Müller family has been farming, including making wine, for 300 years. The concentration on wine happened under Heinrich Müller, the grandfather of Johannes Müller. Today, Weingut Matthias Müller is managed by Matthias Müller and his wife Marianne Müller, with Johannes Müller, who just graduated from Geisenheim University.

Pictures: The Traubenhaus Team Paul Steinbach and Justin Bryan and the ombiasy Team Annette and Christian Schiller Visiting Weingut Matthias Müller, with Matthias and Johannes Müller

The vineyard area totals 18.5 hectares, all in the Bopparder Hamm, with the single vineyards Engelstein, Feuerlay, Mandelstein and Ohlenberg. This compares to 2 hectares when his grandfather took over and 4 hectares, when his father took over.

The Müllers mostly grow Riesling, with a bit of Grauburgunder and Spätburgunder (which however is fermented white). Two thirds of the production of around 150.000 per year is sold at the winery to private customers.

Since 2007, Weingut Matthias Müller has been a member of the VDP, the association of about 200 German elite winemakers.

Pictures: Tasting with Johannes Müller

Tasting

2014 Weingut Matthias Müller Rheinschiefer Riesling trocken


2014 Weingut Matthias Müller Bopparder Hamm Riesling Alte Reben trocken
2014 Weingut Matthias Müller Bopparder Hamm Feuerlay trocken
2014 Weingut Matthias Müller Bopparder Hamm Mandelstein Riesling –S- trocken


2014 Weingut Matthias Müller Bopparder Hamm Riesling Alte Reben feinherb
2013 Weingut Matthias Müller Bopparder Hamm Feuerlay Riesling Auslese


schiller-wine: Related Postings

2012: Best German Wines (Awards) – Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2012

Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Announcement: 5 Exciting ombiasy WineTours in 2016 - BURGUNDY BORDEAUX GERMANY

Tour, Tasting (and Lunch) with Robert Schätzle, Owner and Winemaker, Weingut Schloss Neuweier in Baden– Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2015)

Wine Pairing Lunch at Röttele’s Restaurant (1 Star Michelin) at Schloss Neuweier, with Owner and Winemaker Robert Schätzle, Weingut Schloss Neuweier - German South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2015)

Hanging out with Rheingau Winemakers: Dirk Wuertz, Desiree Eser, Alexander Jakob Jung, Hansi Bausch and Christian Ress in Hattenheim, Rheingau, Germany

Tasting at Weingut Bernhard Huber in Baden, with Yquem Viehauser and Julian Huber – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

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Picture: Tasting at Weingut Bernhard Huber in Baden

The Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015) covered 3 German wine areas (Baden, Pfalz and Rheinhessen) and Alsace. 4 of the 5 producers we visited in Baden (Salwey, Franz Keller, Dr. Heger and Bernhard Huber) were in the southern part of Baden, near the town of Freiburg. Colmar in France is at the same latitude and in fact, you could see the vineyards of Alsace.

Pictures: Weingut Bernhard Huber in Baden

I already provided an overview about the tour here: Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

This posting focuses on our visit of Weingut Bernhard Huber.

Yquem Viehauser, a Geisenheim University educated winemaker (and daughter of a famous German Chef) was our host.

A tasting of Bernhard Huber wines was at the center of our visit. But we also met up with Julian Huber, who is in charge of Weingut Bernhard Huber, in the cellar.

Not so long ago, Der Feinschmecker, the leading German food and wine journal, carried an article about German red wine. Its message was that Germany had established itself as a serious red wine country during the past 30 years. Der Feinschmecker portraited 10 winemakers behind this wine revolution. One of them was the late Bernhard Huber. It is not for no reason that he was Gault Millau’s wine producer of the year in 2007.

Bernhard Huber, only 53 years old, died in June 2014 after a battle with cancer. His son Julian Huber, assisted by his mother Barbara Huber has taken over.

Pictures: Looking at the Vineyards of Weingut Bernhard Huber in Baden, with Yquem Viehauser

Weingut Huber

The Huber Estate is located in Malterdingen in the Breisgau area. More than 700 years ago, Cistercian monks came to Malterdingen, and found the same terroir as in Burgundy and thus started to plant Pinot Noir grapes. Still today, in many reference books on grape varieties, “Malterdinger” is used as a synonym for Pinot Noir.

Although the vineyard has been in the family for several generations, Bernhard and Barbara first began estate bottling, when they took control in 1987 from his father. Before that, grapes and wine were sold to a local cooperative.

Pictures: Tasting at Weingut Bernhard Huber in Baden, with Yquem Viehauser

In 2004 Bernhard Huber started “Reserve” wines bottled from vineyards individually. Before that, his top wine was a mix of vineyard sites.

The vineyard area totals 26 hectares, with holdings in the Bienenberg (Malterdingen), Schlossberg (Hecklingen) and Sommerhalde (Bombach) sites. 70 % is planted with Pinot Noir, the rest with Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Auxerrois, Freisamer, Muskateller, Müller-Thurgau, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.

Pictures: Tasting at Weingut Bernhard Huber in Baden

The red wines always ferment on the skin and lay in the oak barrel for up to 18 months before bottling. Weingut Huber has about 600 barrique barrels and replaces about 150 barrels each year.

A lot of the wines are in the 20, 30 or 40 Euro category. Weingut Huber is clearly interested in super premium wines and not in day-to-day easy drinking wines.

Pictures: In the Cellar of Weingut Bernhard Huber in Baden with Yquem Viehauser and Julian Huber

Wine critic Panos Kakaviatos: Although the price tag is (very) steep for people not familiar with quality German Pinot (over 100 euros per bottle), the Wildenstein 2011, coming from just over 2 hectares of vines, exuded vivid perfumed violet and lead pencil – a very elegant yet concentrated wine that beguiles winelovers. It was easily the best German Pinot Noir I have ever tasted and I want to put it into a blind tasting of top Burgundies and see how it does.

The Huber Estate is a member of the VDP and the Deutsches Barrique-Forum association.

Tasting

2007 Weingut Bernhard Huber Rose brut nature


2012 Weingut Bernhard Huber Spätburgunder

Made from yields of about 60 to 65 hectolitres per hectare for this intro wine, from 3- to 12-old vines. The malolactic is done in older 225 litre barrels.

2012 Weingut Bernhard Huber Malterdinger Spätburgunder

Lower yields at 50-55 hectolitres per hectare, made from older vines between 12-25 years old. Unfiltered. A different clone used which explains a noticeably lighter colour – and a rather tart style.

2012 Weingut Bernhard Huber Alte Reben Spätburgunder

A noticeable step above this old vine Pinot Noir, made from 25- to 60-year old vines. It clocks in at about 13% alcohol, with 35 to 38 hectolitres per hectare. It is aged 9 to 10 months in new oak then racked into one-year old barrels. There is a touch of sweetness from the new oak but mostly harmonious.

2012 Weingut Bernhard Huber Bienenberg Spätburgunder GG

Same winemaking as with the Old Vines wine, but slightly lower yields at 30 hectolitres per hectare from 6 prime parcels in the Bienenberg vineyard.

2012 Weingut Bernhard Huber Sommerhalde Spätburgunder GG

Another great growth, also from five parcels but the main one is facing the Black Forest, so a cooler terroir.


2013 Weingut Bernhard Huber Grauer Burgunder trocken
2013 Weingut Bernhard Huber Weisser Burgunder trocken
2012 Weingut Bernhard Huber Chardonnay trocken


Bye-bye

Let me quote Panos Kakaviatos: All in all a magnificent visit to what is indeed a legendary German domain. Any serious and passionate wine lover who is visiting the Baden region in Germany or Alsace, France should contact the domain and schedule a visit and tasting.

Pictures: At Weingut Bernhard Huber in Baden, with Yquem Viehauser and Julian Huber

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