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Olivier Leflaive: Vineyard Walk and Cellar Tour, with Patrick Leflaive – Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

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Pictures: Oliver Leflaive Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru - The Wine and the Vineyard

We spent a morning and part of the afternoon at Oliver Leflaive. The visit comprised 3 parts: (1) We started out with an extensive walk through the vineyards of Puligny Mantrachet. (2) This was followed by a visit of the winery. (3) We ended the stop in Puligny Montrachet with a tasting lunch at La Table de Olivier, the restaurant of Maison Olivier Leflaive.

Pictures: Arriving in Puligny-Montrachet at La Maison d'Olivier Leflaive with Patrick Leflaive

Patrick Leflaive, the brother of Olivier Leflaive and President of Maison Oliver Leflaive, joined us for lunch.

This posting covers parts (1) and (2). Part (3) will be covered in a separate posting.

The Leflaive Family in Pouligny Montrachet

Just after the First World War, Olivier’s grandfather, Joseph Leflaive, was faced with the failure of his steel factory in Saint-Etienne. His investments in Burgundy were all he had left and he decided to enlarge his wine estate. Burgundy had not yet recovered from the effect of the phylloxera epidemic, which meant that vineyards were for sale at a very low price. Joseph Leflaive was able to buy 25 hectares for his domaine.

In 1920, Joseph Leflaive started a program of replantation with better adapted root stock, and progressively started to sell wine under his own label rather than to négociants. It became a family-run operation covering some 35 hectares.

After the death of Joseph Leflaive in 1953, his son, Joseph Régis, the father of Olivier and Patrick Leflaive, was in insurance and along with his brother Vincent, decided to take over the rein of Domaine Leflaive. The estate soon began producing top-flight wines.

In 1973, Domaine Leflaive was given a company structure to avoid splitting it up with subsequent inheritance, with the family members becoming the shareholders. Joseph Régis had 5 children and Vincent Leflaive had 3 children. Joseph Régis and Vincent Leflaive continued to manage the company.

Pictures: Annette and Christian Schiller with Patrick Leflaive

Olivier Leflaive

Oliver Leflaive is one of the 5 children of Joseph Régis. Initially, he pursued a career in TV and radio for 10 years. In 1982, he joined his uncle Vincent Leflaive to co-manage Domaine Leflaive.

In 1984, Olivier Leflaive launched his own company Olivier Leflaive Frères, which we visited, with the help of his uncle Vincent and his brother Patrick. He quickly established his own reputation amongst Burgundy’s finest.

In 1990, Anne-Claude Leflaive replaced her father Vincent Leflaive in the management of Domaine Leflaive.

In 1994, the share holderss of Domaine Leflaive, i.e. the family Leflaive decided to give the management of Domaine Leflaive to Anne-Claude Leflaive. Olivier Leflaive left Domaine Leflaive and focused henceforth on his own company, Olivier Leflaive Frères, which he had already launched 10 years before.

Maison Olivier Leflaive Frères

Olivier Leflaive founded his own company Olivier Leflaive Frères, which we visited, with the help of his uncle Vincent and his brother Patrick, in In 1984. His brother Patrick invested in the business and became co-owner. His uncle Vincent also invested and acted in an advisory capacity, introducing him to winegrowers, and eventually to Jean-Marc Boillot who became his winemaker from 1984 to 1988.

Together, they brought this haute-couture business to life.

In 1988, Franck Grux took over as a winemaker and still holds this role today. Franck Grux was a young and talented winemaker who had been working at the Domaine Roulot in Meursault. He rapidly became Olivier’s right-hand man. Over the two past decades, he was able to establish a strong, long-term relationships with the best growers in the region.

Olivier Leflaive Frères is known today as a négociant (a wine buyer and seller) of high quality with a focus on the whites from the famous villages of Puligny, Chassagne and Meursault. Olivier Leflaive is continuously expanding and has acquired several vineyards that allow the Domaine to develop and build up its range of Domaines Wines alongside the négoce business.

In 1997, Olivier Leflaive Frères opened the Table d’Olivier Leflaive, Burgundy’s first table d’hôte enabling. In 2001, Olivier Leflaive Frères extended its expertise to the Chablis AOC. In the same year, Olivier’s brother Patrick Leflaive, one of the initial investors, joined the company as President.

As numbers of diners grow, in 2006, Olivier Leflaive decided to open La Maison d’Olivier Leflaive, a 4 star hotel, to allow guests to stay longer in Poulligny Montrachet.

2010, after several long years, Olivier and Patrick received their family legacy in the form of some fabulous terroirs:

– Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru
– Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
– Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Pucelles
– Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatières
– Meursault 1er Cru Blagny Sous le Dos d’Âne

In the same year, Oliver Leflaive retired from Olivier Leflaive Frères.

In the Vineyards of Puligny-Montrachet

We started our visit with a vineyard walk. We walked about a kilometer from La Maison d’Olivier Leflaive to the vineyards of Puligny-Montrachet.

Pictures: Vineyard Walk in Puligny Montrachet

Olivier Leflaive: Our daily mission is to produce top quality grapes. This involves a sustainable approach to working the vines, and also supporting our partner winegrowers in cultivating their plots using an organic or biodynamic approach. We have not any organic certification as we don’t hesitate to use chemical treatment if it’s really necessary.

The harvest is entirely manual and the grapes are picked with the utmost respect for the plant. Harvesting by machine is to be avoided at all costs as it damages the vines and can never match the skill and judgment of a human being.

In the Cellar of Olivier Leflaive

From the vineyards, we walked back to La Maison d’Olivier Leflaive and from there to the new production facility.

Pictures: In the Cellar of Olivier Leflaive in Puligny Montrachet

Olivier Leflaive: Although the quality of the harvest is key, vinification and ageing also play a major role in bringing out the essence of each appellation. Franck Grux and Philippe Grillet make it their daily task to ensure the quality of the wines and respect for the terroir. As such, the estate’s approach is to treat each cuvée individually.

Olivier Leflaive: We vinify and age the equivalent of 120 hectares of vines (including 17 of our own), the majority of which are white wines from the three prestigious Côte de Beaune villages of Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet and Meursault, as well as from Chablis and the Côte Chalonnaise.

Lunch and Wine Tasting at La Table de Olivier

From the production facility, we walked back to La Maison d’Olivier Leflaive, where we had lunch cum wine tasting with Patrick Leflaive joining us. The lunch will be covered in a separate posting.

Picture: Lunch at La Table d'Olivier (see separate Posting)

Postings on the Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France (Posted and Forthcoming)

Preview: Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015 and 2016)

Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Champagne Jean Josselin in Gyé-sur-Seine: Tour and Tasting with Jean Pierre Josselin - Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

The Wines of Tonnerre, France – Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Domaine Séguinot-Bordet in Maligny, Chablis: Tour and Tasting with Owner and Winemaker Jean-François Bordet – Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Domaine Brocard in Chablis: Lunch, Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Odile Van Der Moere, Responsable de Cave – Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Dinner at Hostellerie Chateau de la Barge in Creches-sur-Saone - Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Domaine Ferret in Fuissé, Poully-Fuissé, Mâconnais: Vineyard Walk, Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Cyril Laumain, Chef de Cave – Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Visit of the Abbey of Cluny and Lunch at Hostellerie d'Heloise in Cluny– Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Domaine Theulot Juillot in Mercurey, Côte Chalonnaise: Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Nathalie and Jean-Claude Theulot – Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Maison Olivier Leflaive in Puligny-Montrachet: Vineyard Walk Cellar Tour and Lunch with Wine Tasting at Restaurant La Table d’Olivier Leflaive with Patrick Leflaive

Wine Tasting at Domaine Mestre Père & Fils in Santenay with Jonathan Maestre

Visit: Domaine Bouchard Père & Fils in Beaune

Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Beaune, Bourgogne

Visit: Musée de l’Hospice de Beaune with Karoline Knoth, M.A.

Domaine A-F Gros in Beaune: Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Owner and Winemaker Mathias Parent

Visit: Maison Joseph Drouhin in Beaune

Domaine Faiveley in Nuits-Saint-George: Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Mathilde Nicolas (Brand Ambassador)

Wine Tasting at Domaine du Château de Prémeaux in Nuits Saint Georges with Owner and Winemaker Arnaud Pelletier 

Domaine Armelle et Bernard Rion in Vosne-Romanée: Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Bernard Rion and  Alice Rion

Domaine Guillon & Fils in Gevrey Chambertin: Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Jean-Michel Guillon

Visit: Château du Clos de Vougeot

schiller-wine: Related Postings

4 Wine Tours by ombiasy coming up in 2015: Germany-East, Germany-South. Germany-Nord and Bordeaux

Fall Tours by ombiasy WineTours 2015 - A Very Special Treat: Experience Harvest Time ! 

Martin Zwick's BerlinKabinettCup 2015: Germany's Best 2014 Riesling Kabinett Wines

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Picture: The Top 5 Wines of Martin Zwick's BerlinKabinettCup 2015

The BerlinKabinettCup 2015 took place in Berlin, Germany, a few weeks ago, orchestrated by Martin Zwick. 39 German Riesling Kabinett 2014 wines were included and ranked in the tasting. 2/3 of the wines came from the Mosel Saar Ruwer area. The wines were blind-tasted by 12 sommeliers, wine writers and wine retailers.

Martin Zwick: I select the wines for my Cup based on tastings, recommendations and reading. I serve the wines blind in 2er flights and after 5 flights the jury has to give their scores based on the 100pts-system. Then the next 5 flights will continue. At the end when all wines have received their scores I will show the wines. BTW, the best/worst scores of each wine will be deleted. Note: The estates JJ Prüm and Molitor didn´t send bottles, as it is too early for them. In addition Egon Müller doesn´t provide tasting bottles for competitions, never.

Picture: Christian Schiller and Carl von Schubert of Maximin Grünhaus in Washington DC. His Kabinett came in as #2

See also:
Carl von Schubert from the Maximin Gruenhaus Estate Returned a Favor: With his Wines in Washington DC (and in Seattle), USA

Riesling

There are about 47000 hectares planted with Riesling worldwide. Germany – with 22500 hectares – accounts for about half of the total. The second and third largest Riesling producer are the US (mainly Washington State and Finger Lakes Region) with 4800 hectares and Australia with 4100 hectares. But this is only about 1/10 of the total. Alsace follows with 3500 hectares. Alsace, Ukraine and Austria follow with 3500 hectares, 2700 hectares and 1900 hectares, respectively.

Picture: Tasting at Weingut Gunderloch in Nackenheim with Fritz Hasselbach, with Annette Schiller,Ombiasy PR and WineTours. Weingut Gunderloch's Kabinett came in as #4

See also:
Wine Tasting at Weingut Gunderloch in Nackenheim, with Owners and Winemaker Fritz Hasselbach and Agnes Hasselbach-Usinger – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2014)

Overall, Riesling is really a niche wine, accounting for less than 1 percent of total wine production in the world - but a very special niche wine. In terms of quality wines, Riesling is usually included in the top three white wine varieties, with Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. Riesling is highly terroir-expressive, meaning that the character of Riesling wines is clearly influenced by the wine’s place of origin.

Picture: Joel B. Payne, Gault Millau, Thomas Haag, Winemaker of the Year, and Father Wilhelm Haag. Weingut Schloss Lieser came in as #9 and #11

See also:
Thomas Haag, Weingut Schloss Lieser, Germany’s Winemaker of the Year, Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2015

Martin Zwick and his Berlin Cups

Martin Zwick was initially known for organizing the BerlinRieslingCup every year. The BerlinRieslingCup is about Germany’s ultra-premium dry grand cru (Grosses Gewächs) Rieslings from Grosse Lage vineyards. It typically takes place in the second half of September, following the release of the Grosses Gewächs wines of the previous year.

Picture: Annette Schiller, Ombiasy PR and WineTours, Max von Kunow, Johannes Hasselbach (Weingut Gunderloch), Alwin Jurtschitsch (Weingut Jurtschitsch) and Christian Schiller at BToo in Washington DC, USA. Max studied with Alwin and Alwin's wife, Stephanie Jurtschitsch, who is Johannes' sister.

See also:
Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting at Weingut Von Hövel in Konz, Saar Valley, Mosel, with Owner and Winemaker Max von Kunow - Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2014)

In the following years, he added 3 other Berlin Cups: The BerlinGutsrieslingCup, which reviews and rates entry-level Rieslings. The BerlinKabinettCup: A ranking of off-dry, light Rieslings that carry the Kabinett predicate. Finally, the BerlinSpätburgunderCup, a ranking of German Pinot Noirs.

Thus, there are now 4 BerlinCups: BerlinRieslingCup, BerlinGutsRieslingCup, BerlinKabinettCup and BerlinSpätburgunderCup. See more below.

Picture: Christian Schiller with Armin and Caroline Diel at Schlossgut Diel

See also:
Tasting with Sylvain Taurisson Diel at Schlossgut Diel, Nahe– Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2014)

What is a Kabinett?

What is a Kabinett? That depends. In the framework of the standard classification of German wine (the Law of 1971), Kabinett has a different meaning than in the framework of the new classification adopted by the VDP.

Picture: Christian Schiller and Dorothee Zillike, Weingut Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken, at Frankfurt/Wein in Frankfurt, Germany

See also:
Dorothee Zilliken, Weingut Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken Presents her Noble Rieslings at Frankfurt/Wein in Frankfurt, Germany

In the standard classification, a Kabinett is defined by the sugar content of the grapes at harvest. It is a wine made from grapes harvested with a sugar content of 67 to 87 degrees Öchsle that was not chaptalized. Such a wine can be fully fermented and become dry. These are the Kabinett Trocken wines.

Picture: Lunch and Tasting at Weingut Reichsgraf von Kesselstadt with Owner Annegret Reh-Gartner and her Husband, the former Chef Gerhard Gartner

See also:
Lunch and Wine Tasting at Weingut Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt in Morscheid, Mosel with Owner Annegret Reh-Gartner – Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2014)

Alternatively, the winemaker could stop the fermentation so that natural sugar remains in the finished wine (and perhaps add a bit of sterilized juice – Süssreserve) to produce a wine that is fruity-sweet. That could be indicated on the label as Kabinett Feinherb, or Kabinett Halbtrocken.

Pictures  Annette Schiller (Ombiasy PR and WineTours), Helmut Dönnhoff and daughter Christina Dönnhoff (Weingut Doennhoff) and Didier Cuevlier (Chateau Leoville Poyferre) at Weingut Weil

See also:
Wine Tasting and Cellar Tour at Weingut Dönnhoff with Christina Dönnhoff– Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2014)

In sum: In the framework of the standard classification of German wine, a Kabinett could be a dry or a fruity-sweet wine, with the terms Trocken, Feinherb and Halbtrocken indicating the sweetness level in the wine. In both cases, it is a rather light wine, made with grapes that were picked early in the harvest.

The VDP producers have introduced a new classification, very much based on the Burgundian approach. In their new classification, Kabinett no longer stands for a certain ripeness of the grapes at harvest, but stands for a certain sweetness level of the wine in the bottle. If a winemaker harvests grapes at the Kabinett level (in terms of sugar content at harvest), but wants to make a dry wine out of it, the winemaker has to market the wine as Qualitaetswein (QbA).

Pictures: At Weingut Dr. Loosen with Ernst Loosen and Annette Schiller, Ombiasy PR and WineTours

See also:
Ernst Loosen Presented his Wines at Weingut Dr. Loosen, Bernkastel-Kues, Mosel Valley, Germany

Only wines that have a certain sweetness in the finished wine can be sold as Kabinett. Kabinett Trocken does not exist for VDP producers (although some VDP members still produce Kabinett trocken during a transition period). All the wines sold as Kabinett are in a certain Kabinett sweetness range.

For the VDP winemakers, Kabinett is an indication of a certain sweetness profile. And Auslese is sweeter than Spätlese and Spätlese sweeter than Kabinett. The terms “Halbtrocken” and “Feinherb” have become redundant in the VDP classification system.

Picture: Christian Schiller and Wilhelm Weil, Weingut Robert Weil, in Kiedrich, Germany

See also:
Kiedrich: Visit of the Basilica of Saint Valentine and of Weingut Robert Weil - Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

The wines in the BerlinKabinettCup 2015 were all wines where the fermentation was interrupted to generate a wine “that dances” as Stephen Rheinhardt has put it in the Sueddeutschen Zeitung: A low alcohol wine with some remaining sweetness – Feinherb and Halbtrocken Kabinetts, no Trocken Kabinetts.

Martin Zwick: I made this "BerlinKabinettCup" not because of another Cup, not because of ranking, not because of scores. The true star is the KABINETT. Here in Germany Kabinett was heavily overlooked in the last years, as most people drank trocken, trocken, trocken. My "BerlinKabinettCup" created awareness in Germany for Kabinett and now the people buy more Kabinett. That´s all about.

Pictures: In the Garden of Weingut Schäetzel with Kai Schätzel

See also:
Tour, Tasting, and Lunch at Weingut Schätzel in Nierstein, Rheinhessen – Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2014)

BerlinKabinettCup 2015 Ranking

2014 Weiser-Künstler Ellergrub 90pts.
2014 Maximin Grünhäuser Herrenberg 90pts.
2014 Willi Schaefer Himmelreich 90pts.

2014 Gunderloch Jean Baptiste
2014 Schäfer-Fröhlich Felseneck
2014 JB Schäfer Pittermännchen
2014 Julian Haart Ohligsberg
2014 A.J. Adam Hofberg
2014 Schloss Lieser Wehlener Sonnenuhr
2014 R.Haart Goldtröpfchen
2014 Schloss Lieser Juffer
2014 von Hövel Hütte Vollmondwein VS
2014 Diel Pittermännchen
2014 von Hövel Oberemmler Hütte
2014 Julian Haart Goldtröpfchen
2014 Grünhäuser Abtsberg
2014 Zilliken Rausch
2014 Diel Goldloch
2014 von Kesselstatt Domprobst feinherb
2014 Meierer Kesten
2014 Peter Lauer Kupp Fass Nr. 5
2014 Dönnhoff Leistenberg
2014 Zilliken Bockstein
2014 Karthäuserhof Karthäuserhofberg
2014 Dr. Loosen Erdener Treppchen
2014 Robert Weil
2014 St.-UrbansHof Bockstein
2014 Schätzel Nierstein
2014 Schloss Johannisberg Rotlack
2014 Wagner Stempel Siefersheim
2014 MF Richter Wehlener Sonnenuhr
2014 Willi Schaefer Domprobst
2014 Werther Windisch
2014 Fritz Haag Brauneberger
2014 St.-UrbansHof Goldtröpfchen
2014 MF Richter Elisenberger
2014 von Hövel Scharzhofberger
2014 von Kesselstatt Scharzhofberger
2014 Weins Prüm Domprobst

Charlie Gierling’s Comments (Taster)

My impression is, that the vintage was difficult in those more northern parts. We had wines labeled "Kabinett" with overripe, even burnt fruit, some with unripe fruit und some with unclean (rotten) fruit. As every year, there were some great bottles, but I would have called them rather Spätlese or even Auslese than Kabinett. A producer from the Mosel actually explained why the wines were so different: the time window for harvesting clean, ripe grapes was extremly short on the Mosel. In around one week, the grapes turnde from immature to rot.

I would pick 3 wines of the evening:

- my favorite: Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken, Riesling Kabinett Saarburger Rausch. More like a Spätlese, but what a good one! Precise and full of energy.
- my surprize: Gunderloch, "Jean Baptist" Kabinett feinherb. Good spiciness.
- the most kabinett-like: Willi Schäfer, Graacher Himmelreich.

schiller-wine: Related Postings (Berlin Cups)

Germany’s Best Ultra-premium Dry Riesling Wines - BerlinRieslingCup 2014, Germany
Germany’s Best Ultra-premium Dry Riesling Wines - BerlinRieslingCup 2013, Germany
Germany’s Ultra Premium Dry Riesling Wines – The Berlin Riesling Cup 2012
Germany’s Top Wines – The Berlin Riesling Cup 2011 Ranking

Martin Zwick’s BerlinGutsrieslingCup 2015 - Rating Dry Entry-level Rieslings from Germany's Best Producers

Martin Zwick’s BerlinGutsrieslingCup 2014 - Rating Entry-level Rieslings from Germany's Best Producers
BerlinGutsrieslingCup 2013– Rating Entry-level Rieslings from Germany
Berlin Gutsriesling Cup 2012, Germany

Martin Zwick's BerlinKabinettCup 2014, Germany
BerlinKabinettCup 2013 - Kabinett 2012, Germany

Germany's Best Pinot Noir Wines - BerlinSpätburgunderCup 2012/2014
BerlinSpaetburgunderCup 2011/2013, Germany

schiller-wine: Related Postings (Tours by ombiasy WineTours)

4 Wine Tours by ombiasy coming up in 2015: Germany-East, Germany-South. Germany-Nord and Bordeaux

Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014

Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014

Bordeaux Wine Tour 2013 by ombiasy

Schiller-wine - Related Postings

German Spaetlese Wines Can Come in Different Versions. I Have Counted Five.

Steffen Christmann (Weingut A. Christmann) and Wilhelm Weil (Weingut Robert Weil) Presented the New Wine Classification of the VDP, Germany  

When Americans Drink German Wine - What They Choose

Wine Consumption: Do Germans Drink Sweet or Dry Wine?

Approaches to Classifying German Wine: The Standard Approach (the Law of 1971), the VDP Approach and the Zero Classification Approach

Wine Tasting at Weingut Gunderloch in Nackenheim, with Owners and Winemaker Fritz Hasselbach and Agnes Hasselbach-Usinger – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2014)

Carl von Schubert from the Maximin Gruenhaus Estate Returned a Favor: With his Wines in Washington DC (and in Seattle), USA

Thomas Haag, Weingut Schloss Lieser, Germany’s Winemaker of the Year, Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2015

Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting at Weingut Von Hövel in Konz, Saar Valley, Mosel, with Owner and Winemaker Max von Kunow - Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2014)

Tasting with Sylvain Taurisson Diel at Schlossgut Diel, Nahe– Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2014)

Dorothee Zilliken, Weingut Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken Presents her Noble Rieslings at Frankfurt/Wein in Frankfurt, Germany

Wine Tasting and Cellar Tour at Weingut Dönnhoff with Christina Dönnhoff– Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2014)

Ernst Loosen Presented his Wines at Weingut Dr. Loosen, Bernkastel-Kues, Mosel Valley, Germany

Kiedrich: Visit of the Basilica of Saint Valentine and of Weingut Robert Weil - Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Tour, Tasting, and Lunch at Weingut Schätzel in Nierstein, Rheinhessen – Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2014)

Schiller’s Favorite Winemakers in Sachsen, Germany

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Picture: With Host Silvio Nitzsche at WeinKulturBar in Dresden

See:
WeinKulturBar in Dresden, Saxony: One of the Best Wine Bars in Germany
The 18 Best Wine Places in Germany (Gerolsteiner)

Sachsen (Saxony)

Sachsen, located in the former GDR, is the easternmost German wine region and extends some 35 miles north and south of Dresden along the Elbe River. Most of the region’s vines are planted on terraces along the River Elbe, and being at such a gradient, a lot of the work is done by hand. For 8 centuries, vintners here have mostly planted Müller-Thurgau and Riesling, earning a well-deserved reputation for excellent dry whites.

Picture: Germany's Wine Regions

Meissen porcelain, known locally as “white gold,” is one of the things Sachsen is best known for, being the first place in Europe to make china in the early 18th century.

Pictures: Meissen

Annette Schiller: This region tickles all your senses with its unique voluptuous baroque architecture, a rich history, its wealth of art, and love of all the good things in life.

What it is not so well-known for is its wine. Bordering Poland and the Czech Republic, Sachsen is one of Germany’s small wine regions (360 hectares) and disappeared from the wine map during the communist period.

Picture: Semper Opera in Dresden

During the communist times from 1945 until reunification in 1989, wine production was nationalized, and winemaking took place in huge VEB (volkseigener Betrieb / company owned by the people) wineries. The output, the bottle count was imposed on the VEB by the State, and therefore quality could not play a major role. After the iron curtain came down, family wineries were founded, and the winemakers pursued quality with a vengeance.

Pictures: In the Vineyards of Sachsen - Radebeul and Pillnitz

The three main grape varieties are Müller-Thurgau, Riesling and Weissburgunder but many others are grown in smaller quantities, including Grauer Burgunder, Spätburgunder, Roter Traminer, Kerner, Dornfelder, Goldriesling, Scheurebe and a rarity, Dunkelfelder. The wines are mostly dry (trocken). Most of the wine produced in Sachsen is consumed in the region.

Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Annette Schiller's ombiasy WineTours covers the Sachsen Region on her Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours. Compared with the other ombiasy WineTours, the art component is much more in the forefront here.

Annette Schiller: This tour allows wine lovers and aficionados of the arts to experience what the statement “wine is a form of art” entails. Participants will live the profound relationship between wine, music, dance, and visual arts by visiting Germany’s beautiful, lesser known wine regions, and the region which is the cradle of German culture, and intellectual thinking. Meet winemakers who embody the "wine and art" approach right at their wineries, and attend three world-class concert-opera- and ballet performances in East-and Middle Germany. This tour will tickle all of your senses and emotions.

See:
Preview: Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)
The Art Marketer: OMBIASY PR & WINE TOURS - Germany-East
Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)
Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014

We have visited 3 of the 8 favorites so far: Weingut Aust, Weingut Schloss Proschwitz and Weingut Zimmerling.

Schiller’s Favorite Winemakers in the Sachsen Region

Karl Friedrich Aust
Frédéric Fourré
Weingut Drei Herren
Weingut Schloss Proschwitz
Martin Schwarz
Rothes Gut – Tim Strasser
Weingut Schloss Wackerbarth
Klaus Zimmerling

Weingut Karl Friedrich Aust

Weingut Karl Friedrich Aust is in Radebeul in Sachsen, near Dresden. The historic estate from the 17the century is idyllically located at the foot of the Goldener Wagen vineyard.

Karl Friedrich’s parents acquired this historic gem in 1975 (during the GDP period) and restored it on their own initiative. Already during the GDR period, the Aust family made wine. The estate came with a small vineyard of 0.6 hectares. In his day job, the father of Karl Friedrich Aust was heading the reconstruction team of the Dresden Zwinger.

Pictures: At Weingut Karl Friedrich Aust, Sachsen

The origins of the “Meinholdsche Turmhaus” (tower building), the heart of Weingut Karl Friedrich Aust, dates back to the year 1650. Wine was already made here in the 18th century. C.C. Meinhold (Hofbuchdrucker) from Dresden acquired the estate in 1792.

Karl Friedrich Aust grew up on the estate with two siblings and early in his live got to know how to make wine. However, during the communist era the family was allowed to produce only 100 liters of wine for their own consumption. “6 families lived on the estate during the GDR period” Karl Friedrich Aust said.

Karl Friedrich’s father died very early, in 1992, while Karl Friedrich was still attending school. When Karl Friedrich finished school in 1995, he initially learnt the profession of a Steinmetz and Steinbildhauer (stonemason and stone sculptor) in Cologne at the famous Cathedral of Cologne. At the same time, he took over the full responsibility of the small family vineyard of the Aust family. During these 3 years, we was during the week an apprentice in Cologne and during the weekends an estate manager and small winemaker in Radebeul.

In 1999, he returned with his stonemason and stone sculptur degree to Radebeul and took up assignments in Dresden and at Schloss Proschwitz. But at the same time, the desire grew to fully shift from being a stone artist to a wine artist, i.e. to leave his job and to take over the family estate and concentrate on winemaking.

Since 2001, the family winery bears the name Weingut Karl Friedrich Aust. In 2003, Karl Friedrich added Weinhaus Karl Friedrich Aust, a small negociant operation. In 2006, he opened the Restaurant Weinhaus Aust, where we had lunch and tasted the Karl Friedrich Aust wines. On the side, Karl Friedrich went through another apprenticeship, that of a Winzer (winemaker). He earned his Winzer Certificate in 2008.

Today, the vineyard area of Weingut Karl Friedrich Aust totals 5.3 hectares. Annual production is 2000 cases. Weingut Karl Friedrich Aust is one of the leading winemakers in Sachsen and in Germany, with 2 grapes (out of 5) in the Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2015.

See also:
Weingut Karl Friedrich Aust in Radebeul, Sachsen: Tour and Lunch with Tasting – Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Frédéric Fourré

Frédéric Fourré was born and raised in France. He is a Frenchman. Since 1999, he lives in Radebeul. Initially, he worked as a Sommelier at the Hotel Kempinski Taschenbergpalais in Dresden (for 10 years). Since 2001, he owns a vineyard in the Radebeuler Goldene Wagen and makes his own wine. In 2003, he decided to quit his day job (Sommelier) and become a full-time winemaker. Today, he produces 10 000 bottles annually, with his own grapes and bought grapes. In the beginning, Frédéric Fourré made his wine in the cellar of Weingut Karl Friedrich Aust. But he has moved now to Weingut Schloss Proschwitz.

Frédéric Fourré came to Sachsen, because of love; she was a dancer at the Semper Opera in Dresden. They now have 2 children.

Weingut Drei Herren

The name of the winery is "Three men", because the winery was reestablished by three men: the art historian Prof. Dr. Rainer Beck, the Radebeul winemakers Claus Höhne from Radebeul and a third man, who has dropped out in the meantime and was replaced by Antje Wiedemann, Saxon Wine Queen 2003 and German Wine Princess 2004.

During the GDR period, the estate deteriorated substantially. It was restored and renovated from 2003 to 2005. Weingut Drei Herren opened in 2005.

Today, Claus Höhne and Professor Rainer Beck are the owners; Claus Höhne is the winemaker and Antje Wiedemann runs the estate.

Schloss Proschwitz

The zur Lippe family was first mentioned in the early 12th century. The family belonged to the reigning dynasties in Europe until 1918. For more than 300 years, the family branch of Georg Prinz zur Lippe lived in Sachsen and produced wine. However there is a 45 year long interruption, when in 1945 the Russians occupied the eastern half of Germany and disappropriated and expelled the zur Lippe family.

Immediately after Germany’s reunification Georg Prinz zur Lippe started to buy back his family’s wine estate and ancestral residence, the Proschwitz castle. Since then he has restored the castle to its former glory, and invested heavily to build up the winery to become a state of the art wine producing estate. With 90 hectares under vine Weingut Proschwitz belongs to one of the larger wineries in Germany and is the largest privately owned one in Sachsen. Great care is given to sustainable techniques in the vineyard to enable future generations to continue to produce outstanding wines.

Pictures: With Prinz zur Lippe at Weingut Schloss Proschwith and at Lippe'sche Gutshaus (Weingut Schloss Proschwitz)

Thirteen grape varieties are grown on the estate: Pinot Gris 20%, Pinot Blanc 12%, Müller-Thurgau 11%, Elbling 8%, Pinot Noir 8%, Riesling 8%, Dornfelder 7%, Goldriesling 7%, Scheurebe 8%, Traminer and others.

Weingut Schloss Proschwitz also has a hotel, restaurant and a tasting room. The family’s 18th-century palace hosts conferences and weddings.

See also:
Weingut Schloss Proschwitz, Prinz zur Lippe, in Zadel, Sachsen: Tour and Tasting with Prinz zur Lippe – Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)
Dining with Prinz zur Lippe, Owner of Weingut Schloss Proschwitz, at the Lippe’sches Gutshaus - Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Martin Schwarz

Newsweek carried an article about Martin Schwarz recently: Martin Schwarz has only 30 bottles left of his new wine. Despite their hefty €50 price tag, 70 have already been snapped up since the batch went on sale a few months ago. That may be because it’s the first-ever barolo grown in the East German state of Saxony. “Saxonian barolo” is what Schwarz jokingly labels his pioneering creation, made of Piedmontese nebbiolo grapes, since barolo itself is a Piedmontese trademark.

But the grapes are the same. Until recently, nebbiolo grapes grew only in regions like Piedmont in northern Italy. Saxony, bordering Poland and the Czech Republic, is Germany’s smallest wine region, and for eight centuries vintners here have mostly planted Müller-Thurgau and riesling, earning a well-deserved reputation for excellent dry whites. But with climate change pushing temperatures up, Schwarz decided to try out the red Italian nebbiolo grape here in Radebeul outside Dresden.

“The mountain slopes here hadn’t been used for grape-growing for a very long time, but I realised that the sunnier side would be perfect for nebbiolo,” explains the 52-year-old. He could not have asked for a more picturesque laboratory: his newly planted slopes below the palace Neufriedstein overlook Radebeul’s charming medieval city centre of small shops and neatly paved streets.

Though Radebeulers refer to their city as the Nice of Saxony, because of its mild climate and stunning scenery, planting Italian grapes this far north was a risky venture. Temperatures may not reach quite the levels common on the south side of the Alps, and climate change may also bring a risk in the form of floods.

“I must say I was surprised the grapes ripened,” Schwarz recalls of his first harvest, in 2012. One year later, he filled his first batch of bottles – the 100 now on sale – and from last year’s harvest 100 litres are now maturing in his cellar. …

“What we’re doing now here in the north would not have been possible 20 years ago,” reflects Schwarz. “For vintners in Germany, climate change is a good thing. But I do feel for vintners in southern Europe. They can keep planting their grapes, but they’ll get a wine with higher alcohol content.”

Indeed, according to Wine Economics and Policy, Europe’s centuries-old viticulture will undergo an enormous shake-up as entire regions along the coast of Italy, Greece and France become unsuitable for wine-growing altogether, while southern England turns into the new Champagne. A generation from now, pinot noir lovers may well be drinking only the finest Saxonian bottles.

Right now, Schwarz can’t think that far ahead, busy as he is with his current grapes and bottles. “Saxonian barolo is lighter than barolo from Piedmont, but you recognise the nebbiolo straight away,” he says. “It’s a typical nebbiolo; it makes for a very elegant wine.”

Rothes Gut – Tim Strasser

Tim Strasser has 12 hectares under vine. The winery, which was first mentioned in 1765, is right next to the Albrechtsburg of Meissen. His family is from the German speaking part of Hungary and has a long winemaking tradition, for several generations in Meissen.

Tim Strasser did an apprenticeship at Schloß Wackerbarth and then went back to school to become a Techniker für Weinanbau und Önologie.

Since 2010 he is responsible for the wines at Rothes Gut.

Pictures: Annette and Christian Schiller in Meissen Drinking the Wines of Tim Strasser

Weingut Schloss Wackerbarth

The Sächsisches Staatsweingut Schloss Wackerbarth is located in Radebeul in Sachsen and owned by the Federal State of Sachsen. It is Germany’s 11th largest wine estate.

This beautiful style palace was one of the many pleasure palaces and country residences build near Dresden under Augustus the Strong. Schloss Wackerbarth was constructed by Christoph August von Wackerbarth, who was a Minister in the government of August the Strong, between 1727 and 1730. After his death, the castle was inherited by Joseph Anton Gabaleon von Wackerbarth-Salmour and had in the following 200 years various owners, including Dresdner Bank.

In 1952, after World War II, it became the socialist wine co-operative VEG Weinbau Radebeu. Efforts to privatize the wine co-operative after the fall of the Berlin Wall by the Treuhand privatization organization in 1989 were not successful and the estate finally was taken over in 1992 by the Federal State of Sachsen. In 2002 the State of Sachsen decided to renovate the castle and transform it into a “Erlebnisweingut” with an educational mission.

The vineyard area totals 94 hectares. Some of the vineyards are terraced and on steep slopes, along the Elbe river. The main grape varities are Riesling (25 ha), Elbling (12 ha), Müller-Thurgau (10 ha), Kerner (9 ha) and Pinot Blanc (7,5 ha) as well as Pinot Noir, Dornfelder and Regent.

See also:
The Role of Government - Government Owned Wineries in Germany

Klaus Zimmerling

Annette Schiller: This is a very special place, hard to describe – you have to feel it - where art and wine is intimately intertwined. Two people, two passions, a heart warming experience: Klaus Zimmerling, the grape whisperer, who sees his vineyard, the perfectly shaped, southern facing Rysselkuppe as a gift and natural wonder, which imposes on him the duty to go the extra mile to produce extraordinary wine; Malgorzata Chodakoska, his wife, who sculptures graceful feminine figures in her studio, which sits in the middle of the vines. Every year one of her sculptures will serve as model for the bottle label of that particular vintage. With only 4 hectares under vine, output is small.

In 1992, shortly after reunification, Klaus Zimmerling founded Weingut Klaus Zimmerling. He took the plunge into self-employment with 1.5 hectares of vineyards, after having worked for many years in a factory for kitchen appliances. Klaus Zimmerling was borne in Leipzig and is a mechanical engineer by training.

Before creating Weingut Klaus Zimmerling, Klaus Zimmerling had devoted himself to wine already in his spare time. Also, he apprenticed for 12 months at a winery in Austria. He does not have a formal education as winemaker and is essentially self-thought.

Today, the vineyard area totals 4 hectares, as a peach plantation has given way to a vineyard expansion of the vineyard. Still, not much. The vineyard (Rysselkuppe) is a steep slope monopoly vineyard above Pillnitz and dates back to King August der Starke (August the Strong). It once belonged to the Saxon court.

When Klaus Zimmerling bought the vineyard, it was planted with lesser varieties such as Müller-Thurgau and Bacchus. The most he cut out and planted instead Riesling and Pinot.

Pictures: At Weingut Klaus Zimmerling with Klaus Zimmerling and Malgorzata Chodakoska, his Wife.

Klaus Zimmerling: The extreme geological conditions, the weathered granite and gneiss, in conjunction with the southern exposure of the slopes is particularly favorable for the cultivation of high-quality wines To that, add the very low yields.

The use of modern technology is minimal. Klaus Zimmerling told us that the cooling takes place by means of a wet bed sheet and he measures the temperature by hand. Initially, the fermentation is spontaneous, but Klaus Zimmerling adds selected yeast later in the fermentation process. All the wines are fermented in stainless steel vats. Since 2009, Klaus Zimmerling uses Stelvin screw tops.

Until not so long ago, Klaus Zimmerling marketed his wines all as Landwein, the lowest quality level in the Law of 1971 German quality pyramid. He did not want to bother to go through the administrative classification procedure and his clients did not care either. This has changed since Klaus Zimmerling joined the prestigious VDP, the association of about 200 elite winemakers in Germany.

In the beginning, Klaus Zimmerling used to make his wine in the vaults of the famous castle Pillnitz. Twice he experienced flood. For nearly half a million euros he had dig a tunnel into Rysselkuppe and construced a new winery.

The new winery opened in 2008. The graceful entrance of the winery is adorned by impressive female figures of Malgorzata Chodakowska. More sculptures of his wife can be admired in the winery.

Klaus Zimmerling’s bottles are very special. First, he fills all his wine in 0.5 liter bottles. Second, the bottles are not only small, but also a visual delight as the front label of the bottles carry a picture of a sculpture of Malgorzata Chodakowska. The sculpture changes from vintage to vintage. Every year one of her sculptures will serve as model for the bottle label of that particular vintage.

Portfolio: Riesling (40%), Grauer Burgunder (30%), Gewürztraminer (15%), Weißburgunder (10%), Traminer (5%).

See also:
Visit of Weingut Klaus Zimmerling: The Wines of Klaus Zimmerling and the Art of his Wife Malgorzata Chodakoska - Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Postings: Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015) (Published and Forthcoming) 

Preview: Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

The Art Marketer: OMBIASY PR & WINE TOURS - Germany-East

Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Tasting at Weingut Lützkendorf with Uwe Lützkendorf – Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Weingut Pawis (Saale Unstrut): Estate Tour and Wine Tasting with Markus Pawis – Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Weingut Thürkind in Gröst, Saale-Unstrut: Tour, Tasting and Lunch – Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Schiller's Favorite Winemakers in the Saale Unstrut Region, Germany

Weingut Schloss Proschwitz, Prinz zur Lippe, in Zadel, Sachsen: Tour and Tasting with Prinz zur Lippe – Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Dining with Prinz zur Lippe, Owner of Weingut Schloss Proschwitz, at the Lippe’sches Gutshaus - Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Weingut Karl Friedrich Aust in Radebeul, Sachsen: Tour and Lunch with Tasting – Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Visit of Weingut Klaus Zimmerling: The Wines of Klaus Zimmerling and the Art of his Wife Malgorzata Chodakoska - Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Schiller's Favorite Winemakers in Sachsen (Saxony), Germany

Visit and Tasting at Weingut Wirsching in Iphofen, Franken

Visit and Tasting at Weingut Am Stein Ludwig Knoll in Würzburg, Franken

Cellar Tour and Tasting with Star Winemaker Paul Fürst at Weingut Fürst in Franken

Würzburg and its 3 Historic Wine Taverns: Juliusspital, Bürgerspital and Staatlicher Hofkeller

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Graf Neipperg in Schwaigern, Württemberg

Tasting at Weingut Dautel in Württemberg with Christian Dautel

Wine Pairing Dinner at Restaurant Friedrich von Schiller in Bietigheim-Bissingen in Württemberg

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Herzog von Württemberg at Schloss Monrepos with Owner F.R.H. Carl Duke of Württemberg

Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting with Rainer Schnaitmann at Weingut Rainer Schnaitmann in Fellbach, Württemberg

Wine Tasting at Weingut Simon-Bürkle in Zwingenberg, Hessische Bergstrasse

Schiller’ Favorites

This posting is part of the Schiller’s favorites series.

Europe

Germany

Schiller's Favorite Winemakers in Sachsen (Saxony), Germany
Schiller’s Favorite Winemakers in the Saale-Unstrut Region, Germany
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Taverns in Trier, Germany
Schiller's Favorite (Wine-) Restaurants in Deidesheim in the Pfalz, Germany
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Frankfurt am Main, Germany
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Berlin, Germany
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Frankfurt am Main, 2013, Germany
Schiller's Favorite Apple Wine Taverns in Frankfurt am Main, Germany
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Taverns in Mainz, Germany

France

Schiller’s Favorite Restaurants, Brasseries, Bistros, Cafes and Wine Bars in Paris, France 
Schiller's Favorite Seafood Places in Bordeaux City, France
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux City, France
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in St. Emilion, France
Schiller’s Favorite Restaurants, Brasseries, Bistros, Cafes and Wine Bars in Paris, 2012 France
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux (City) (2012), France

UK, Spain, Austria, Hungary

Schiller's Favorite Winebars in London, UK
Schiller’s Favorite Tapas Bars in Logroño in La Rioja, Spain
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in London, 2012, UK
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars and Other Wine Spots in Vienna, Austria
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Budapest, Hungary
Schiller’s Favorite Spots to Drink Wine in Vienna, Austria (2011)

USA

Riesling Crawl in New York City – Or, Where to Buy German Wine in Manhattan: Schiller's Favorite Wine Stores, USA
Schiller's Favorite Oyster Bars and Seafood Places in Seattle, USA  
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in New York City, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Seattle, USA
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Washington DC, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Crab Houses in the Washington DC Region, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in New York City, 2012, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Charleston, South Carolina, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in San Francisco, USA
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars and Other Places Where You Can Have a Glass of Wine in Healdsburg, California

Asia

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Singapore
Schiller s Favorite Winebars in Beijing, 2014, China

Africa

Schiller's Favorite Wines of Madagascar
Schiller’s 12 Favorite Restaurants of Antananarivo, the Capital of Madagascar    

Announcement: Pinot Noir Tasting - Germany contra Rest of the World, led by Annette Schiller and Doug House, in Washington DC (McLean), USA, on October 4, 2015

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Picture: Annette Schiller, Doug House and Christian Schiller at Chain Bridge Cellars in McLean, Virginia

Dear German Wine Society Members and Friends of German Wine,

Pinot Noir, like Riesling, does one thing better than any other grape in the world: expresses site, climate and vintage. In this exciting tasting, you’ll have the chance to experience some of Pinot Noir’s most distinctive terroirs as you sample 12 delicious, distinctive, Pinot Noirs from Germany and around the world.

We’ll take a global tour of Pinot Noir styles – but with a distinctly Germanic flair! Annette Schiller will pour and present 6 Pinot Noirs from Germany ranging from cool-site “village” level wines through more robust (for Germany, at least!) Pinots from warmer locations and Grand Cru vineyards. Next to each German example, Doug House of Chain Bridge Cellars will present examples of Pinot Noir from typical vineyards located in Burgundy and beyond. By the end of the tasting, you’ll have a new-found understanding and appreciation of Pinot character in all its diversity and charm.

There is a red wine revolution going on in Germany and the world increasingly takes note of it. 30 years ago, the share of red wine in total German wine output was not more than 10 percent. This has increased to more than 30 percent. One out of three bottles of German wine is a red wine. In terms of Pinot Noir, Germany is now the third biggest producer in the world, after France and the US.

We’ll taste:

Germany:

2012 Schloss Proschwitz Sachsen Spätburgunder
2012 Markus Schneider Pfalz Spätburgunder
2012 Dreissigacker Rheinhessen Wunderwerk
2013 Adeneuer Ahr No 1 Spätburgunder
2009 Köblin Kaiserstuhl Spätburgunder
2012 Bernhard Huber Baden Alte Reben Spätburgunder

Picture: The German Spätburgunders at the Tasting

Rest of the World:

2012 Chateaux de Vaux Pinot Noir Les Hautes Bassieres Moselle France
2012 Belle Pente Pinot Noir Willamette Valley Oregon
2012 Domaine Pillot Mercurey Rouge Burgundy
2012 Domaine Jean-Michel Guillon Gevrey Chambertin Cuvee Alexis 2012 Burgundy
2010 Rovero Lajetto Pinot Nero Italy
2013 Pali Bluffs Pinot Noir Russian River

Annette is currently in Germany and France, conducting her fall tours by ombiasy PR and WineTours, and will purchase some of the wines directly at the winery and hand-carry them back to the US for our tasting.

Doug House owns and runs the popular Chain Bridge Cellars in McLean. He says that he and Chain Bridge Cellars have only limited insight into German wines, which probably is an understatement, but I can assure you that they cover the rest of the world extremely well. Doug visits Burgundy annually and tours Oregon and California Pinot vineyards frequently as well. Together, Annette and Doug will give you plenty of information, provide lots of opportunities for questions, and guarantee that you’ll taste some very satisfying wines!

The price for this very special event will be $35 for members, and $42 for non-members. The Board encourages all members and friends of the Society to reserve as early as possible, as this event is expected to be very popular. We will be limiting attendance to 30 guests.

The event will take place on Sunday, October 4, 2015, from 5 pm to 7 pm at Chain Bridge Cellars in McLean.

Address: 1351 Chain Bridge Rd, McLean, VA 22101, United States
Phone: +1 703-356-6500

Event coordinator: Annette and Christian Schiller aschiller@ombiasyPR.com

(The event is sold out.)

schiller-wine: Related Postings

4 Wine Tours by ombiasy coming up in 2015: Germany-East, Germany-South. Germany-Nord and Bordeaux

Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014

Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014

Bordeaux Wine Tour 2013 by ombiasy

Weingut Schloss Proschwitz, Prinz zur Lippe, in Zadel, Sachsen: Tour and Tasting with Prinz zur Lippe – Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Dining with Prinz zur Lippe, Owner of Weingut Schloss Proschwitz, at the Lippe’sches Gutshaus - Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Wine Tasting at Weingut Bernhard Huber– Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Tasting the Wines, President Obama was Served: Visit of Weingut Markus Schneider, Pfalz – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2014)

Puligny Montrachet Winemaker Dinner with Sylvain Bzikot, Domaine Bzikot Pere et Fils, at Jacques Imperato’s Mediterannee Restaurant in Northern Virginia, USA

Dining with Côte de Beaune Winemaker Pascal Maillard, Domaine Maillard Père et Fils, at Restaurant 2941 in Virginia, USA

Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

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Picture: Wine Lunch at Château Le Bon Pasteur, Appellation Pomerol, with Dany Rolland and Director Benoit Prevot

Led by Annette Schiller, the Bordeaux Tour 2015 by ombiasy WineTours took place from September 15 to 24, 2015. The group comprised 8 wine lovers from the United States, including Annette and Christian Schiller. This posting provides an overview. Future postings will focus on specific events of the tour. See the list of postings at the end of the article.

Annette Schiller: Our way of traveling allows wine lovers to fully experience authentic Bordeaux. "Bordeaux" embodies not only "wine": The interplay of wine and food is very important. Therefore our tour has a strong culinary component, with exquisite wine pairing lunches and dinners at the Châteaux playing a daily part of our journey through the Bordeaux wine region. Drawing on our love and deep knowledge of the region and close personal ties to many of the Château owners/ managers/ winemakers, our small group visits many of the hidden gems that other tours pass by, but which are essential to feel what Bordeaux is all about. In a nutshell: this is an on ground wine class on Bordeaux!

Day 1: Tuesday, September 15

Arrival in Bordeaux, check-in at Hotel La Tour Intendance.


02.30 pm Welcome coffee and introduction to the Bordeaux wine region at Hotel La Tour Intendance.



03.45 pm Tour and Tasting at Millésima (Wine Merchant) in Bordeaux City.

We were introduced to the rules, regulations, and peculiarities of the “Place de Bordeaux“ at the prominent wine merchant “Millésima” where over two million bottles of top Bordeaux wines are stored and waiting to be shipped.

In Bordeaux, the wine merchants have always played a decisive part in the wine world. The buying and selling of wine, the setting of a price of a bottle of wine from a specific chateau for a specific vintage, the entire conduct of business is described as „La Place de Bordeaux“. The wine trade in Bordeaux goes back many centuries to the time when Aquitaine was English.

The stroll through the vast storage rooms felt like being a kid in a candy store. The visit ended with a wine and cheese tasting in the storage rooms.

Manuela Picot was our host.









06.30 pm Tour and tasting at Domaine de Chevalier, Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé.

This estate dates back to the 18th century and is located in Léognan, the capital of the Graves region. The first grapes were planted by a man who was a chivaley, the old Gascon word for knight. Later the modern French word “Chevalier” was used for the estate, the old name “Domaine” instead of the word “Chateau” to describe a wine making estate has never been abandoned. Like Château Pape-Clément, Domaine de Chevalier is also classified for its red and white wines. In 1983 Domaine de Chevalier was bought by the Bernard family, producers of Cognac and major Bordeaux wine merchants. The estate comprises about 200 acres with 110 under vine. 13 acres are planted with white grapes (Sauvignon Blanc and Semillion) and the rest with the classic Bordeaux blend grapes.

Director Adjoint Rémi Edange was our host. Owner Olivier Bernard, who is currently President of the “Union des Grand Crus de Bordeaux”, the association of 133 grands crus estates in the Bordeaux region, joined us on the tour.


















08.00 pm Dinner at Domaine de Chevalier, Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé.

Following the tour we had a four course gourmet menu with wine pairing in the private quarters of Domaine de Chevalier. Domaine de Chevalier’s Director Adjoint Rémi Edange was our host.











Day 2: Wednesday, September 16

This was a very interesting day in Saint-Emilion. We visited three entirely different châteaux and experience three absolutely dedicated winemakers who have three completely different views.

The first visit was to one of the most prestigious châteaux belonging to the top 1% in the rankings of Bordeaux. The second visit was to one of the 30,000 or so non-classified châteaux in the Bordeaux region that produce 95% of Bordeaux wines; we met a passionate winemaker who makes beautiful every day wines. During the third visit we met an outstanding winemaker who is a maverick and whose wines have become very expensive; unusually in this price category, he does not sell his wines through the “Place de Bordeaux” system.

09.30 am Tour and tasting at Château Angélus, Appellation Saint-Emilion, Premier Grand Cru Classé A.

Château Angélus is one of the only four (Angélus, Ausonne, Cheval Blanc, Pavie) wine producing estates classified as premier grand cru classé A in the Saint-Emilion appellation. It sits in the middle of a natural amphitheatre on the south-facing hillside of the famous footslope „pieds de côtes“, just half a mile from the village of Saint-Emilion. Château Angélus has been in the Boüard de Laforet family for seven generations. We also taste the second wine of Angélus „Le Carillon de l’Angélus“ and wine from Château Daugay, which was bought by the Boüard de Laforet family in 1920 and is located right next to Angélus.

Laurent Benoit was our host.











12.00 pm Tour at Château Beauséjour, Appellation Puisseguin Saint-Emilion.

For centuries this Château and Château Langais have been in the possession of the Dupuy family. Gérard Dupuy, the current owner and winemaker, and his partner Claire showed us around. They have done extensive renovations of this old estate. Since 1947 Gérard’s father Alain has been convinced that the best wines stem from vineyards and cellars that are managed acroecologically, in harmony with the ecosystem. Since 1996 the Château is certified organic by “Ecocert”.







01.00 pm Lunch with wine pairing at Château Beauséjour, Appellation Puisseguin Saint-Emilion.

We had a wonderful three course gourmet lunch with wine pairing in the newly renovated dining area at Château Beauséjour that served as the horse barn in the old days. Gérard’s good friend is an excellent chef who runs a restaurant in the vicinity of Saint-Emilion and we enjoyed the meal he prepared for us.

Gérard Dupuy joined us for the lunch and guided us through the wine tasting.








04.00 pm Visit and tasting at Château Tertre-Rôteboeuf, Appellation Saint-Emilion.

This estate is located on a hill in Saint-Laurent de Combes with fantastic panoramic views of the vineyards in the Dordogne valley. We were welcomed by François Mitjavile, the owner of Château Tertre-Rôteboeuf. He is an exceptional winemaker, often unconventional in his views with regard to the mainstream wine scene in France. He is a maverick and refuses to take part in any classification system. His wines are brillant, unique and simply phenomenal. Since Robert Parker discovered these wines, prices very often exceed the prices of the wines from the premier grand cru classé estates.

The tasting took place in the wine cellar of Château Tertre-Rôteboeuf and included the 2014 from barrel. François Mitjavile, the owner and winemaker of Château Tertre-Rôteboeuf, was our host.















07.00 pm At Hotel Au Logis de Remparts, Saint-Emilion.


In the evening we explored the narrow cobble stone streets of the spectacular medieval town of Saint-Emilion. For Annette, me and another group member, the evening ended with a glass of wine at Chai Pascal, one of my favorite wine bars in Saint Emilion.




I also bumped into cult winemaker Jean Luc Thunevin.


Day 3: Thursday, September 17

09.00 am Tour and tasting at Château de Figeac, Appellation Saint-Emilion, Premier Grand Cru Classé.

Château de Figeac is one of the 15 Premier Grand Cru Classé B châteaux in Saint-Emilion. Its prominent neighbor is Château Cheval Blanc. The vineyards of Château de Figeac border the Pomerol appellation vineyards and thus the vines grow on a very different terroir than the rest of the Saint-Emilion vines. The Figeac wines show a more “Left Bank” character than the rest of the Saint-Emilion wines. Château de Figeac can look back on a turbulent and eventful history since its beginnings in the 12th century. Wine production started in the 17th century. In 1892 the Manoncourt family took over the Château, restored it to its former glory, and transformed the estate into one of the most elegant châteaux in Saint-Emilion.

Cécile Routurier was our host.










We also had a chance to talk with Figeac's Director Frédéric Faye about the 2015 harvest.





11.15 am Tour at Château Le Bon Pasteur, Appellation Pomerol.

Pomerol is a tiny winegrowing region, located on the pilgrim road to Santiago de Compostela. Wine has been produced here since Roman times. Later the Knights of the Order of Malta cultivated the vines. In the Middle Ages, these knights established the Commanderie de Pomerol, which still exists today. Château Le Bon Pasteur was acquired by the Rolland family around 1920. The grandson of the original owner, Michel Rolland, well known around the world as “flying winemaker” and wine consultant, and his wife Dany, also an oenologist, created a model vineyard and produce outstanding wines.

Dany Rolland and Benoit Prevot, General Manager and Winemaker, joined us on the tour.







12.15 pm Lunch and tasting at Château Le Bon Pasteur, Appellation Pomerol with Dany Rolland.

We had a three course gourmet lunch with wine pairing at Château Le Bon Pasteur.

Dany Rolland and Benoit Prevot, General Manager and Winemaker, joined us for the luncheon and explained the wines to us.
















04.15 pm Tour of Saint-Emilion.

A guide led us on a walking sightseeing tour through the beautiful town of Saint-Emilion. We also visited the monolith church hewn into the rock the town rests on.




06.00 pm Tour of Château Canon La Gaffelière, Appellation Saint-Emilion, Premier Grand Cru Classé.

Canon La Gaffelière also is one of the only 15 Premier Grand Cru Classé B châteaux in Saint-Emilion.

Proprietor Count Stephan von Neipperg is a descendant of an Austrian / German noble line dating back to the Holy Roman Empire. Members of this dynasty always played important roles in European history and politics, and have been making wine since the 12th century. The family still owns a wine estate in the Württemberg region of Germany, where their roots are.

Magali Malet was our host.








07.00 pm Dinner and tasting at Château Canon La Gaffelière, Appellation Saint-Emilion, Premier Grand Cru Classé.

Following the tour we had a four course gourmet menu with wine pairing at the Château. Magali Malet was our host.








Day 4: Friday, September 18

09.00 am Departure from Saint-Emilion and drive through the rolling hills of the “Entre deux Mer” wine region to Langon in the Sauternes region.

10.30 am Tour and tasting at Château de Fargues, Appellation Sauternes.

The story of Château de Fargues in 1306 when a nephew of Pope Clement V, Cardinal Raymond Guilheim de Fargues bought the property and built a fortress with solid walls and rough stones not at all resembling what we imagine of a “Château”. For more than 500 years, the estate is in the same hands since it had been acquired through marriage by the Lur-Saluces family, a powerful aristocratic family of Southern France, who also owned Château Coutet and Château d’Yquem, among others, until the end of the 20th century. Château de Fargues is a very large estate of mixed farming with 425 acres of land: 250 acres of woods, a system of artificial ponds, a breeding area, cattle pastures, about 65 acres of arable crops and 62 acres under vine. However, producing a “Sauternes” only started in the late thirties of the 20th century when the father of the current owner Marquis Bertrand de Lur-Saluces converted 25 acres of vineyards from red varieties to Semillion and Sauvignon-Blanc. Alexandre de Lur- Saluces continued the work of his father and today 42 acres are planted with white varieties. The vineyards are farmed with respect to the soil; there is no use of herbicides, as fertilizer the cow manure is used instead.

Our host was Prince Eudes d’Orléans, 3rd in line of the throne, should a monarchy be reinstituted in France, who is the Managing Director at Château de Fargues.














12.30 pm Departure for Cadillac, on the other side of the Garonne River.

01.00 pm Lunch with wine pairing at Restaurant Château de la Tour in Cadillac.

We had the wines of Château Du Cros, a small producer, for lunch. Catherine Boyer, proprietor of Château Du Cros, joined us for lunch and guided us through the tasting.







03.00 pm Tour at Château Du Cros, Vignobles M. Boyer, in Loupiac.

After the luncheon we took a short drive to the château where the wines we had for lunch came from. The history of the Château Du Cros began in 1196 at the beginning of the 300 years of English rule over Aquitaine, when Richard Lionheart granted the property to Sir Boson Casau as a fiefdom. Today the Boyer family passionately produces excellent wines: a rich dessert wine from 100 year old vines in the Loupiac appellation, a dry white wine in the Graves appellation, and wonderful red wines.

Catherine Boyer, proprietor of Château Du Cros, was our host. 




07.00 pm Check in at Hotel la Tour Intendance in Bordeaux City.

In the evening we had a chance to explore what the beautiful city of Bordeaux has to offer.Annette and I went ot our favorite wine bar of Bordeaux, Le Wine Bar.



Day 5: Saturday, September 19

12.00 pm Tour and tasting at Château Smith-Haut-Lafitte, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé.

The noble Bosq family started growing grapes here as early as 1365. The property was purchased in the 18th century by Scotsman George Smith, who gave the estate its present name. He also built the manor house and exported his – by now famous – wine to England on his own ships. Current owners are Florence and Daniel Cathiard. Both Florence and Daniel were professional skiers belonging to the French Olympic ski team in the mid 60s (with triple gold medal legend at the 1968 Winter Olympics Jean-Claude Killy). After their career in sports, Daniel built a supermarket and sporting goods store imperium and Florence an advertising agency. In 1990 they bought Château Smith-Haut-Lafitte with the wealth generated by the sale of all their assets. Daniel and Florence Cathiard invested heavily, restored buildings, replaced vats, constructed a new barrel cellar, converted vineyard practices to sustainable farming and paid detailed attention to hand picking, sorting, and practices in the cellar. They brought the quality of Smith-Haut-Lafitte wines to the level for which they were once renowned.















01.45 pm Lunch at the 2 Michelin starred restaurant La Grande Vigne.

Following the visit and tasting we enjoyed lunch at the 2 Michelin starred restaurant La Grande Vigne, prepared by Chef Nicolas Masse. The restaurant is part of the “Les Sources de Caudalie”, a complex comprising a hotel, several restaurants and a health spa, which the Cathiards constructed next to the Château.

La Grande Vigne Sommelier Aurélien Farrouil guided us in our wine selections. The menu was a fixed menu chosen by Annette Schiller.












04.00 pm Drive back to Bordeaux.

Annette and I spent the evening with 2 other group members in one of the numerous brasseries/bistros/restaurants in Bordeaux with a couple of bottles of superb Bordeaux.



Day 6: Sunday, September 20

We did as the French do on Sundays: go on an excursion to the country side and enjoy a wonderful luncheon.


10.00 am Departure from Bordeaux and drive to Grand-Piquey, Basin d’Arcachon, the famous oyster harvesting bay.

11.15 pm Tour of the Earl Ostrea Chanca oyster farm and oyster tasting in Grand-Piquey.

Oyster farmer Ralph Doerfler, our host, loved the weekend family outings to visit his grandparents at their cabana on the Arcachon Bay when he was a child. It was then that he fell in love with the sandy beaches of the bay, the life style away from the hustle and bustle of Bordeaux city, and the smell and taste of oysters. Growing up he decided to study and learn everything there is to know about oysters.

Ralph Doerfler showed us how he raises his oysters and guided us through the oyster tasting.











01.00 pm Lunch at Pinasse Café, Cap Ferret, with a gorgeous view over the bay, the oyster farms and the village of Arcachon and the Dunes de Pilat, the largest in Europe, in the distance.









04.00 pm Departure from Cap Ferret and drive to Bégadan, Médoc.

05.45 pm Tour at Château Le Reysse, Vignobles Paeffgen, Appellation Médoc, in Bégadan.

The Medoc sits north of St.-Estèphe, downstream on the Gironde estuary and embraces Pauillac and Saint-Julien to the west. Château Le Reysse was run by Patrick Chaumont, the second generation owner, for several decades. In 2010 Château Le Reysse was bought by Stefan Paeffgen, who holds a Doctorate in agricultural science and who in another life worked in the agriculture industry in his home country Germany and in Scandinavia. He always had a passion for the wines of the Médoc and at age 46, he was at a crossroad and made the decision to go back to practical agriculture. He searched for a winery and finally found this great spot in Bégadan. Stefan makes stunning wines and last year his wines were awarded the Cru Bourgois classification.








06.45 pm Dinner and tasting at Château Le Reysse, Vignobles Paeffgen, Appellation Médoc, in Bégadan.
Following the tour we had charcuterie and cheese at the château and a tasting of the wines of Château Le Reysse.

Stefan Paeffgen and his wife Heike were our hosts.






 


09.15 pm At Hotel/Restaurant Le Vignoble-France et Angleterre in Pauillac.

Day 7: Monday, September 21

09.15 am Tour and tasting at Château Léoville Poyferré, Appellation Saint-Julien, 2ième Grand Cru Classé.

Léoville Poyferré exists as its own domain since 1840, when the big Léoville property was divided into three smaller entities. The current owner, the Cuvelier family bought Château Léoville Poyferré in 1920. At that time the Cuvelier family was already established in the wine business as important wine merchants in northern France. Since 1979, Didier Cuvelier has managed the estate.

During the tour, we had a chance to chat with Cellar Master Didier Thomann and Vineyard Manager Bruno Clenet. The tasting was led by Didier Cuvelier in the blending/tasting room of Château Léoville Poyferré.

















11.30 am Tour and tasting at Château Pichon-Longueville-Baron, Appellation Pauillac, 2ième Grand Cru Classé.

The history of this estate can be traced back to the late 16-hundreds and matches the history of its twin estate across the street, Pichon Longueville-Comtesse de Lalande until the Pichon estate became divided in 1850 due to inheritance circumstances under the Napoleonic laws. Château Pichon-Baron (for short) stayed in the de Pichon-Longueville family until 1933 when the last surviving family member sold it to Jean Bouteiller, member of a family well-known in the Bordeaux wine scene. His heirs did not manage to keep the quality of the wines and in 1987 the estate was bought by AXA Millésimes, whose goal was to enable great wines from vineyards with a glorious past to achieve their full potential. Total reconstruction of the fermenting room and cellars, and renovation of the château itself, began in 1988. Excellent terroir across from the 1st growth Latour property, stretching south bordering the Léoville estates in Saint-Julien gives the wines elegance, balance, and finesse. The elegance of the wines in combination with the beautiful, graceful Château, which is one of the most stunning ones in the Médoc, make this estate very special.

During the tour, we were welcomed by Jean-Rene Matignon, Technical Director.













12.30 pm Lunch with wine pairing at Château Pichon-Longueville-Baron, Appellation Pauillac, 2ième Grand Cru Classé.

Following the tour we had a gourmet menu in the private quaters of Château Pichon-Longueville-Baron, prepared by Chef Thibaut Gervas, with wine pairing.










03.00 pm Winery tour, museum tour, and tasting at Château Mouton-Rothschild, Appellation Pauillac, 1ière Grand Cru Classé.

Château Mouton-Rothschild -as we know it today- came into existence in 1853, when Baron Nathaniel de Rothschild - from the English line of the Rothschild family - purchased the estate - which was then called Château Brane-Mouton - and renamed it using his name. It was when his greatgrandson Philippe de Rothschild took control over the estate in the 1920s that winemaking and wine selling changed drastically. In 1924 he was the first one in Bordeaux to bottle all his wines at the Château. The custom of having an artist design the labels started with this first bottled vintage. Since then each vintage features an original piece of art commissioned from the Rothschild’s circle of friends. Baron Philippe also introduced the idea of a “second label” which is now the “Mouton Cadet”. The vineyards total 200 acres. In terms of red grapes, 80% is Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc, 8% Merlot and 2% Petit Verdot. There is also Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon and Muscadelle, for the estate's white wine, which can only be labeled as Appellation Bordeaux Controlée, and not as 1ière grand cru classé, since there is no such thing as a white classified wine allowed in the Médoc.

Gerome Schwartz was our host.










05.00 pm Back at Hotel/Restaurant Le Vignoble-France et Angleterre in Pauillac.

Time to to stroll along the banks of the Gironde and to explore the village of Pauillac.


Day 8: Tuesday, September 22

08.45 am Drive to Vertheuil. Along the route we passed several famous estates and stopped for picture taking, including Châteaux Mouton Rothschild and Lafite Rothschild as well as Cos d’Estournel.

09.15 am Visit of the Cooperage Berger & Fils in the village of Vertheuil.

We witnessed the fascinating art of making a “real” barrique. Berger & Fils is one of the top notch cooperages in France.













11.45 am Lunch at the restaurant Le Peyrat in Saint-Estèphe, right on the banks of the Gironde.

This unassuming, very traditional French restaurant is always packed for lunch, because it is the favorite hangout for the winemakers of the neighboring chateaux. Last time we bumped into the winemakers of Sociando-Mallet; this year we were joined by the grape pickers of Sociando-Mallet.






02.15 pm Tour and tasting at Château Lafon-Rochet, Appellation Saint-Estèphe, 4ième Grand Cru Classé.

This Château features some of the finest vineyards in the world. It is situated in the small appellation Saint-Estèphe and is sandwiched between two prominent neighbors: Cos-d’Estournel on the other side of the street and Lafite-Rothschild, separated only by a small dirt track, and visible across the vineyard that belongs to Lafon-Rochet. Since the 16th century this Château makes excellent wines and had been in the hands of the Lafon family for almost 300 years. In 1895 the phylloxera disaster forced the family to sell Château Lafon-Rochet. A period of a rapid succession of several disinterested owners followed until Guy Tesseron (who also bought Château Pontet-Canet) acquired the Château in the 1960s. He and then his son Michel brought Lafon-Rochet back to its former glory. The new generation is now at the helm and Basile Tesseron is energetically pursuing quality control.

Basile Tesseron was our host. We were also greeted byMichel Tesseron, Directeur Technique Lucas Leclercq and Vineyard Manager Anaïs Maillet.














05.00 pm At Hotel Relais de Margaux in Margaux.


08.00 pm Dinner at Restaurant L’Ile Vincent at the Relais de Margaux.

Day 09: Wednesday, September 23

09:30 am Tour and tasting at Château Rauzan-Ségla, Appellation Margaux, 2ième Grand Cru Classé.

This château came into being when Pierre des Mesures de Rauzan bought many vineyards in Médoc, including the plot which belongs to Rauzan-Ségla today. By the time of Pierre de Rauzan’s death in 1692, 100 acres of vineyards belonged to Château Rauzan-Ségla and their wines were highly regarded. Throughout the centuries the Château changed hands several times and lived through ups and downs. In the 1960s the estate was in bad shape and the new owners Liverpool shipping magnates John Holt and Brent Walker started the long process to turn around Château Rauzan-Ségla. Heavy investments went into vineyards in decline and into the outdated cellars and technology. Signs of improvement were visible in the 80s and this shows in stunning wines from those years. In 1994 the Wertheim family of Chanel bought the Château. This is a perfect match. The philosophy of the Wertheims concerning their products: top quality, elegance, long term thinking – all this applies to wine as well. Estate manager and winemaker is John Kolasa, who has been working in Bordeaux for 43 years and who was for 10 years the manager at Château Latour before the Wertheimers asked him to oversee the operations at Château Rauzan-Ségla.








11.30 am Tour and tasting at Château Palmer, Appellation Margaux, 3ième Grand Cru Classé.

Wine has been produced at this estate since 1748. In 1814 the vineyard was purchased by a General Charles Palmer (1777-1851), who served under Wellington in the British army against Napoleon. His lavish life style forced him to sell his property in Margaux in 1843, but despite this short period he left his mark; the property, vineyards and wine remain Château Palmer to this day. The Château changed hands multiple times until it was acquired in 1938 by a syndicate of four very prominent Bordeux families, the Sichel, Ginestet, Miailhe and Mähler-Besse families, forming the Société Civile du Château Palmer in the process. In the meantime the Ginestet and Miailhe families have pulled out. The heirs of the Sichel and Mähler-Besse families remain shareholders of the consortium. Today, the vines of Château Palmer cover a surface of 52 hectares located in Margaux and Cantenac, made up of 47% Cabernet Sauvignon, 47% Merlot and 6% Petit Verdot. The Palmer wines have consistently been rated as “super-second” Margaux and a recent tasting confirmed this.











03.30 pm At Hotel La Tour Intendance in Bordeaux City.

06.00 pm Tour at Château Haut-Bailly, Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé.

At Château Haut-Bailly wine has been produced for more than five centuries. Like many Bordeaux estates, the property changed owners multiple times over the centuries. However, three owner families put their mark on the estate. In 1630 it was bought by the Le Bailly family which eventually gave the estate its name. In those days the château had about 80 acres under vine, roughly the same as today. There were many ups and downs during the centuries and by the 1950s the estate was in a sorry state. A wine merchant from Belgium, Daniel Sanders, bought the château in 1955 and started intensive renovations. His efforts proofed him right and Château Haut-Bailly was one of the 16 wine producers awarded with the Grand Cru Classé certification in the 1959 classification of the Graves estates. In 1998, Elisabeth and Robert G. Wilmers – he is an American banker, she is French – bought Château Haut-Bailly and spared no expenses to invest in the vineyards, winery, and the château to give the estate the possibility to keep producing top quality wines. Château Haut-Bailly is managed by Véronique Sanders, fourth generation of the Sanders family. Véronique Sanders and Robert G. Wilmers work hand in hand sharing the goal to produce top notch wines of outstanding character.

Diana Paulin was our host. We talked with Cellar Master Jean Christoph during the tour about the 2015 vintage.











7.30 pm Dinner and wine pairing at Château Haut-Bailly, Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé.

We enjoyed a four course wine pairing gourmet dinner in the beautiful private quarters of the Château.
We started with Champagne on the terrace. We then proceeded to the dining room and where we were served a delicious meal, prepared by the private chef of Château Haut-Bailly, Jean-Charles Poinsot. We took the coffee/tea in the living room and had the opportunity to tour the kitchen to personally thank the chef for his inspirational menu.

This exclusive dinner celebration in the private living quarters of the owner was the perfect finale of our wine and gourmet tour.

Diana Paulin hosted us.Chef Jean-Charles Poinsot prepared the dinner.













Day 10: Thursday, September 24

09.00 am Breakfast at the hotel. This was our last activity together.

Postings on the Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France (Posted and Forthcoming)

4 Wine Tours by ombiasy coming up in 2015: Germany-East, Germany-South. Germany-Nord and Bordeaux

Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Bordeaux Wine Tour 2013 by ombiasy

Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Tour and Tasting at Millésima (Wine Merchant) in Bordeaux City.

Tour, Tasting and Wine Dinner at Domaine de Chevalier, Graves,with Director Adjoint Rémi Edange

Tour and Tasting at Château Angélus, Saint-Emilion, Premier Grand Cru Classé A.

Tour and Wine Lunch at Château Beauséjour, Puisseguin Saint-Emilion, with Owner and Winemaker Gérard Dupuy

Tour and Tasting at Château Tertre-Rôteboeuf, Saint-Emilion, with Owner and Winemaker François Mitjavile

Tour and tasting at Château de Figeac, Saint-Emilion, Premier Grand Cru Classé.

Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Saint-Emilion

Tour and Wine Lunch at Château Le Bon Pasteur, Pomerol, with Dany Rolland

Tour and Wine Dinner at Château Canon La Gaffelière, Saint-Emilion, Premier Grand Cru Classé

Tour and Tasting at Château de Fargues, Sauternes, with Prince Eudes d’Orléans

Wine Lunch at Restaurant Château de la Tour in Cadillac and Tour at Château Du Cros, Loupiac, with Catherine Boyer, Proprietor of Château Du Cros

Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux City

Schiller's Favorite Seafood Places in Bordeaux City

Tour and Tasting at Château Smith-Haut-Lafitte, Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé.

Lunch at the 2 Michelin Starred Restaurant La Grande Vigne
Tour of the Earl Ostrea Chanca Oyster Farm and Oyster Tasting in Grand-Piquey, with Oyster Farmer Ralph Doerfler

Tour and Wine Dinner at Château Le Reysse, Vignobles Paeffgen, Médoc, in Bégadan, with Stefan Paeffgen

Tour and Tasting at Château Léoville Poyferré, Saint-Julien, 2ième Grand Cru Classé, with Didier Cuvelier

Tour and Wine Lunch at Château Pichon-Longueville-Baron, Pauillac, 2ième Grand Cru Classé

Tour and Tasting at Château Mouton-Rothschild, Pauillac, 1ière Grand Cru Classé.

How a Barrel is Made: Visit of the Cooperage Berger & Fils in Vertheuil
Lunch at Restaurant Le Peyrat in Saint-Estèphe with the Grape Pickers of Château Sociando Mallet

Tour and Tasting at Château Lafon-Rochet, Saint-Estèphe, 4ième Grand Cru Classé, with Owner Basile Tesseron

Tour and Tasting at Château Rauzan-Ségla, Margaux, 2ième Grand Cru Classé

Tourt and tasting at Château Palmer, Margaux, 3ième Grand Cru Classé

Tour and Wine Dinner at Château Haut-Bailly, Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé, with Diana Paulin


In the Glass: 2013 Maison Roche de Bellene, Coteaux Bourguignons Cuvée Terroir – Or: Is Beaujolais Part of the Bourgogne or not?

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Picture: 2013 Maison Roche de Bellene Coteaux Bourguignons Cuvée Terroir

Recently, on the Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), a question that came up several times, was: Is the Beaujolais part of the Bourgogne or not? We got several different answers. Most maps we saw of the Bourgogne Region, did not include the Beaujolais. The participants left the region confused.

See also:
Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France 

A few days ago, I had a nice wine from Maison Roche de Bellene in the glass, which might contribute to the discussion by way of affirming Beaujolais’ place in the Bourgogne. The wine was a Coteaux Bourguignons (Hills of Burgundy), a new Burgundy appellation.

Coteaux Bourguignons

The Coteaux Bourguignons appellation covers wines made throughout the greater Bourgogne Region, from the Auxerrois and the Chablis Regions in the north down to and including the Beaujolais Region. The appellation was created in 2011 and replaced the Bourgogne Grand Ordinaire and Bourgogne Ordinaire appelations.

The Bourgogne Grand Ordinaire and the Bourgogne Ordinaire appallations were regional generic appellation for various red, white and rosé wines produced across Burgundy, including Beaujolais. As the name suggested, the wines produced under this appellation were ordinary, i.e entry-level wines. The “Grand” referred the size of the area in which the wine could be produced, i.e. from the Auxerrois and the Chablis Regions in the north down to and including the Beaujolais Region.

Various grapes can be used in the wines made under the Coteaux Bourguignons appellation. Red wines are composed primarily from Gamay and Pinot Noir, although in the northerly Yonne the less widespread César is also permitted. Whites can be made from Chardonnay, Aligoté and Melon de Bourgogne, and once again Yonne claims the exclusive right to use the Sacy variety in their wines. Rosé or ‘Clairet’ wines are made from a combination of these grape varieties.

Picture: Tonnerre Wines

Pictures: At Maison Olivier Leflaive in Puligny-Montrachet with Patrick Lefliave

Pictures: At Bistro du Coin Place Ziem with Star Winemaker Andrew Nielson, Owner of Maison Le Grappin

Pictures: At the Hospices de Beaune

Pictures: At Brasserie le Carnot in Beaune with Owner Denise Marabito

Pictures: At Domaine Faiveley in Nuits-Saint-George with Mathilde Nicolas (Brand Ambassador)

2013 Maison Roche de Bellene Coteaux Bourguignons Cuvée Terroir

Maison Roche de Bellene's Cuvée Terroir is mostly from the Austral, southern area, where fruit-forward, mineral inflected Gamay is grown on old vines in granite soils. It is blended with finely structured Pinot Noir from the clay and limestone soils of the Cote d'Or. The result is what the French would call a "Vin de Plaisir" - an easy-drinking, affordable wine for everyday drinking.

The Pinot Noir portion of this wine is made with a brief cold maceration to start, followed by native-yeast fermentation in open vats. The Gamay is done in the traditional manner of the south, with a semi-carbonic maceration and whole-cluster fermentation. The wines are matured in large, old oak barrels for 4-5 months. After racking and a light filtration, the wines rest a few weeks before bottling.

Picture: 2013 Maison Roche de Bellene Coteaux Bourguignons Cuvée Terroir

Maison Roche de Bellene practices traditional, respectful winemaking. Nicolas Potel and his winemaker, Sylvain Debord, work closely with growers to make decisions about vineyard practices, crop reduction harvest dates, and the fermentation regimen. Their winemaking employs “careful guidance of the human hand.”

2013 is the inaugural vintage of this wine. The exact cuvee will vary with each vintage, but in 2013 it is 80% Gamay and 20% Pinot Noir.

The wine is delicate and fruity on the palate, with delightful raspberry, blackberry and Morello cherry notes. The firm tannin of the Pinoir Noir gives the wine a fine structure that beautifully complements the rounder, softer fruitiness of the Gamay.

This wine is imported in the United States by Loosen Brothers USA.

Postings on the Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France (Posted and Forthcoming)

Preview: Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015 and 2016)

Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

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The Wines of Tonnerre, France – Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Domaine Séguinot-Bordet in Maligny, Chablis: Tour and Tasting with Owner and Winemaker Jean-François Bordet – Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Domaine Brocard in Chablis: Lunch, Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Odile Van Der Moere, Responsable de Cave – Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Dinner at Hostellerie Chateau de la Barge in Creches-sur-Saone - Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Domaine Ferret in Fuissé, Poully-Fuissé, Mâconnais: Vineyard Walk, Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Cyril Laumain, Chef de Cave – Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Visit of the Abbey of Cluny and Lunch at Hostellerie d'Heloise in Cluny– Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Domaine Theulot Juillot in Mercurey, Côte Chalonnaise: Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Nathalie and Jean-Claude Theulot – Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Olivier Leflaive: Vineyard Walk and Cellar Tour, with Patrick Leflaive – Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Olivier Leflaive in Puligny-Montrachet: Lunch with Wine Tasting at Restaurant La Table d’Olivier, with Patrick Leflaive - Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Wine Tasting at Domaine Mestre Père & Fils in Santenay with Jonathan Maestre

Visit: Domaine Bouchard Père & Fils in Beaune

Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Beaune, Bourgogne

Visit: Musée de l’Hospice de Beaune with Karoline Knoth, M.A.

Domaine A-F Gros in Beaune: Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Owner and Winemaker Mathias Parent

Visit: Maison Joseph Drouhin in Beaune

Domaine Faiveley in Nuits-Saint-George: Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Mathilde Nicolas (Brand Ambassador)

Wine Tasting at Domaine du Château de Prémeaux in Nuits Saint Georges with Owner and Winemaker Arnaud Pelletier 

Domaine Armelle et Bernard Rion in Vosne-Romanée: Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Bernard Rion and  Alice Rion

Domaine Guillon & Fils in Gevrey Chambertin: Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Jean-Michel Guillon

Visit: Château du Clos de Vougeot

Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

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Picture: Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015) at Weingut Müller-Catoir in Neustadt-Haardt, Pfalz

The Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (August 30 – September 5, 2015) was the second of three wine tours in Germany in 2015, organized by Annette Schiller. The group was small - there were 5 of us, including Annette and Christian Schiller. This posting provides an overview.

We visited a total of 17 wineries (8 members of the VDP, the German association of elite wine makers; 2 in Alsace) in 3 different German wine regions where predominantly grapes other than Riesling are planted: Baden, the most southern German wine region and Germany’s answer to Burgundy; Pfalz with its almost Mediterranean climate and voluptuous whites and reds; Southern Rheinhessen where a variety of white grapes and also Pinot-Noir grow. In addition, we visited 2 wineries in Alsace in France.

Annette Schiller: Our way of traveling allows wine lovers to fully experience authentic Germany. Drawing on our love and deep knowledge of Germany and close personal ties to many personalities in the wine scene, our small group visits many of the hidden gems that other tours pass by, but which are essential to comprehend what German wine is all about.

Baden • Pfalz • Alsace • Rheinhessen

DAY 1: Sunday, August 30

09:30 am Departure by coach from Frankfurt am Main.

11:30 am Tour and tasting at winery Schloss Neuweier (VDP) in Baden-Baden-Neuweier.

Wine has been produced at this impressive 13th century castle for more than 700 years. About 100 years ago Riesling became the dominant grape and passion. Still today, winemaking takes place in the vaulted cellars that date back to the 17th century. The Rieslings grown in the steep vineyards produce sumptuous, racy wines with delicate fruit. In 2012 the Schätzle family bought the estate and continues to produce wines of uncompromising quality.

Our host Robert Schätzle, the owner and winemaker, studied oenology and comes from a family with a long tradition of winemaking in the Kaiserstuhl region to the south.







01:00 pm Wine pairing lunch at Röttele’s 1 Michelin starred restaurant in Schloss Neuweier.

The restaurant in the beautiful old castle is gorgeous and the owner Armin Röttele is a 1-Michelin star chef.

Chef Armin Röttele prepared an exquisite menu featuring the wines of Robert Schätzle.

Robert Schätzle joined us for the luncheon.

Before the lunch, we tasted with Robert his new wines of the 2014 vintage. For the lunch, we had older wines of Weingut Schloss Neuweier.















04:15 pm At Mercure Hotel in Freiburg - a 4-star modern hotel in the city center close to the famous Freiburger Cathedral with great views over Freiburg.

We enjoyed the rest of the day in the beautiful Old Town Freiburg.



DAY 2: Monday, August 31

09:15 am Tour and tasting at winery Salwey (VDP) in Oberrotweil, Kaiserstuhl, Baden.

The Salwey family has been making wine since the mid 18-hundreds. The present winery was founded in 1950 by the grandfather of Konrad Salwey, the current owner. The Burgundy grapes always played a central role at this winery. Konrad’s father devoted much attention to the Pinot Noir, Pinot Blanc, and Pinot Gris, and became sort of an unofficial ambassador for Pinots from Baden. Konrad Salwey inherited his father’s passion for the Pinot varieties. He vinifies the white Pinots in large oak casks and the Pinot Noir in traditional barriques crafted from native wood.

Benno Salwey was our host.














11:30 pm Tour and tasting at winery Fritz Keller (VDP) in Oberbergen, Kaiserstuhl, Baden.

With the Keller family, which can trace its roots as winemakers and hoteliers back to the Thirty Year War in the early 17-hundreds, everything started with producing and offering outstanding food. Franz and his wife Irma, parents of the current owner, were among the first generation of chefs to start the German revolution in the kitchen more than forty years ago. Well beyond the immediate post WWII era, the urge to simply have enough food on the table – quantity over quality- lingered on. In 1969 Franz and Irma Keller and their restaurant Schwarze Adler were awarded one Michelin star, which the restaurant defends until today. For Franz Keller, the central idea of winemaking was to produce top quality wines that perfectly accompanied the creations in the kitchen. The current generation, Fritz and Bettina Keller have brought the winery to a new level. They just finished construction of a brand new winery that is an architectural landmark, beautifully integrated in the landscape. Their efforts to produce top wines, among them stunning Pinot Noirs, were acknowledged by their selection as new member of the VDP in 2013.

Fritz Keller welcomed us.









01:30 pm Wine paring lunch at Restaurant Schwarzer Adler in Oberbergen, Kaiserstuhl, Baden.

This 1-Michelin star traditional restaurant run by the Keller family of winegrowers offers a harmonious mix of Baden country charm and elegance. The menu is a successful marriage of French and German cuisine reflecting the frontier on the nearby Rhine River, which is the border between Germany and France. The impressive wine list boasts 2 600 different wines, including a good selection of bottles from both Baden and France, in particular Bordeaux. The Kellers are Bordeaux lovers and also Bordeaux wine merchants. Their vaulted storage cellar hewn into the rocks across the street makes your palate water when looking at the aisles of Bordeaux cases with only the top names on them.

Melanie Wagner, the fantastic Sommelière of the Schwarze Adler, selected the wines for us.













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05:00 pm Guided sightseeing tour of Old Town Freiburg.

Following the tour, we explored the beautiful Old Town Freiburg.




DAY 3: Tuesday, September 01

09:00 am Tour and tasting at winery Huber (VDP) in Malterdingen, Breisgau, Baden.

The Huber Estate is located in Malterdingen in the Breisgau area. More than 700 years ago, Cistercian monks came to Malterdingen, and found the same terroir as in Burgundy and thus started to plant Pinot Noir grapes. Still today, in many reference books on grape varieties, “Malterdinger” is used as a synonym for Pinot Noir. In 1987 Bernhard Huber and his wife Barbara started their own estate, leaving the co-operative where they produced wine before. They now own 65 acres of vineyards of which 70% is planted with Pinot Noir and the rest with Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, a little bit of Muskateller, Riesling, and Müller-Thurgau. All Huber wines are dry. Bernhard Huber does not produce any botrytised noble sweet wines or ice wines, nor does he chaptalize or add sweet reserve (Suessreserve) to generate sweetness in the finished wine. All his wines are fully fermented, dry and at around 13.5 percent alcohol. Bernhard regularly received the highest awards for his Pinot Noir and became something of a legend for producing top Pinot Noirs that can compete with the best of Burgundy. Bernhard Huber, only 53 years old, died in June after a battle with cancer. His wife Barbara wrote me in a moving email that she and their children try to keep Bernhard Huber's vision of wine making alive and that they will continue to produce top quality wines.

Yquem Viehauser was our host. Julian Huber greeted us.













11:30 am Tour and tasting at winery Dr. Heger (VDP) in Ihringen, Kaiserstuhl, Baden.

This estate is also one of the young wineries by German standards. It was founded in 1935 by Dr. Max Heger, a country doctor. Today the winery is in the hands of the third generation. Joachim Heger and his wife Silvia are in charge of 50 acres planted primarily with Pinot Noir and the white Burgundy grapes. The winery lies in the Kaiserstuhl, a small volcanic group of hills in the Upper Rhine Valley in southwest Germany. The town of Ihringen enjoys the highest average temperature in Germany. While some fine Riesling and Silvaner gets made here, it is really Pinot country. The wines are rich, very well-structured, compact, but nevertheless elegant and subtle.

Markus Mleinek was our host.












01:15 pm Lunch at Restaurant Holzöfele in Ihringen, just across the street from Dr. Heger winery.



03:00 pm Departure. We left the Baden area on the right bank of the Rhine River, at the foot of the Black Forest Mountains, and crossed over the Rhine river into France, into the Alsace region. This lies just across from Baden on the left bank of the Rhine at the foot of the Vosges Mountains. 

04:30 pm Tour and tasting at winery Maison Léon Beyer in Eguisheim, Alsace, France.

It was very interesting to taste the Beyer wines and compare them with the German wines. Even wines of the same grape variety are distinctively different. This is due to different terroir but in a large part to the different philosophy of winemaking in Germany and Alsace. In a nutshell: the modern German winemaking aims at elegant, fruity, crisp, perfectly balanced wines whereas the Alsatian winemaker wants body, boldness and strength for the wines to accompany the hearty Alsatian food.

Since the year 1580 the Beyer family has been making wine in Eguisheim. The “Maison Léon Beyer” as we know it today came into existence in 1867, when Emile Beyer founded the domaine and the négociant house. Maison Léon Beyer produces wine sourced from its own vineyards (50 acres), -among them are holding in the two Eguisheim Grand Cru vineyards, the Eichberg and the Pfersigberg-, and from leased contracts (100 acres). The Maison Léon Beyer is run by the father and son team, 13th generation Marc Beyer and 14th generation Yann Beyer, with advice from Léon Beyer, the grandfather. The domaine has a long-standing reputation for making bone-dry wines.

Marc Beyer was our host.














06:30 pm At Hotel Hostellerie du Château d'Eguisheim - a 3-star, family-run hotel in a typical Alsatian half-timbered building in the center of the picturesque village. The rooms are beautifully designed with a stylish, modern twist. The hotel is included in the "Guides Charmes".

Eguisheim is the cradle of winemaking in Alsace. When the Romans conquered Alsace in the early centuries, it was here that winemaking was introduced. It is an incredible picturesque, medieval village, surrounded by vineyards, and its narrow, concentric streets highlight the architecture of the half-timbered houses.




07:30 pm Dinner at Restaurant Caveau Heuhaus in Eguisheim.








DAY 4: Wednesday, September 02

10:00 am Tour and tasting at winery Domaine Weinbach in Kaysersberg, Alsace.

The Domaine Weinbach is one of the most prominent estates in Alsace. It is beautifully situated at the foot of the majestic Schlossberg hill within the 12.5 acres large Clos des Capucines, the former Capuchin monastery still today completely surrounded by a high stone wall. Today 73 acres of vineyards belong to Domaine Weinbach. The Capuchin monks started making wine in 1612 and established the Domaine Weinbach. During the French revolution it became a national property. In 1898 the domaine was acquired by the Faller brothers. Théo Faller, the next generation, developed the estate into one of the best wineries in Alsace. His unrelenting commitment to delivering excellence and his focus on the incomparable terroirs and grape varieties produced wines of the highest quality. After Théo’s death in 1979, the winery was managed by his widow Colette and their two daughters, Laurence and Catherine, who continued the commitment to quality. In 1998 they started the process of converting to biodynamic winemaking. I quote the Fallers: “The main motivation is to increase soil activity and thus stimulate soil/root/aerial system exchanges with the objective of producing better quality, terroir driven and aromatically complex grapes and wines. Biodynamics helps us care for and protect our vines not only for now but also for future generations.” In 2014 Laurence died at age 47 and in February of this year Colette passed away. Catherine Faller is now the sole manager of the estate.

Catharine Faller was our host.













12:00 pm We continued our journey north on the Alsatian side of the Rhine River and stayed on the French side to cross into the Pfalz region of Germany in Wissembourg. This was a pretty drive, since we followed the Alsatian wine trail for some miles before we continued on the autoroute.

01:00 pm Wine pairing lunch at winery and wine tavern Jülg in Schweigen.

Just across the border in Schweigen, you find the winery Jülg. Unusually, their vineyards are in Germany as well as in France. Karin Jülg runs the wine tavern which is known for outstanding traditional Pfälzer cuisine. In the mid 80s Werner Jülg converted the family winery from a low-end mass producing winery -so typical for the Pfalz in those days-, into a wine estate that produces outstanding wines of the highest quality. He is also known for his excellent Sekt making: the Blanc de Noir produced in the Method Champenoise with traditional Champagner grapes is absolutely delicious. Winery Jülg produces only dry wines mostly with traditional Burgundy grapes. After finishing his studies in oenology son Johannes is now also working in the winery to continue with the family tradition.

We were greeted by Karin and Werner Jülg. Johannes Jülg joined us for the lunch and guided us through the wine pairings.














03:30 pm Deutsches Weintor (German Wine Gate).

A landmark built in 1936 which greets the traveller when coming from France. It also marks the beginning of the German Wine Trail. You can climb 18 meters to the top and enjoy the view over the breathtakingly beautiful landscape south towards the Alsace and north towards the Pfalz.


04:00 pm Tasting at winery Ökonomierat Rebholz (VDP) in Siebeldingen, Pfalz.

Hansjörg and Birgit Rebholz, the third generation of the Rebholz family continue what the founder, the Ökonomierat Eduard Rebholz began: producing highly individualistic wines by working as close as possible with nature. The Rebholz wines do not undergo any chaptalization, fining, or deacidifying nor will sweet reserve be added. The Rebholz wines are crystal clear, sharp, clean, simply beautiful in their transparency and underscore the individuality of the terroir, the climate, and the grape. 75% of the 47 acres under vine are planted with Riesling and the Burgundy grapes, 10% with Chardonnay and the rest with Silvaner, Sauvignon Blanc, Muskateller and Gewürztraminer. Due to the purity the wines have an enormous ageing potential. Hansjörg Rebholz was nominated as winemaker of the year 2013 by the Austrian lifestyle magazine Falstaff.

Hansjörg Rebholz welcomed us and Janina Wilsch led the tasting.










06:45 pm At Hotel Ritter von Böhl in Deidesheim, Pfalz - a 3-star very unique guest house with a 700 year old history. From its foundation over 700 years ago, it continuously served as a "Hotel". Yet it was only recently that the house was converted to a hotel in our definition of modern times: to provide lodging for the traveler. Since its foundation in the 13th century it served as a “Hotel Dieu”, a hospital and home for the sick, the poor, and the elderly.

We explored Deidesheim, a small, picturesque village with half-timbered houses and rustic wine taverns.

The former German chancellor Helmut Kohl, who lives close by, made Deidesheim famous, as he took his powerful guests, such as Margaret Thatcher, the King and Queen of Spain, Michail Gorbatschow, to Deidesheim to try the Saumagen, his favorite dish. We were lucky to be able to sit at the “Helmut Kohl Table”.

DAY 5: Thursday, September 03

09:00 pm Tour and tasting at winery Müller-Catoir in Neustadt-Haardt, Pfalz.

This outstanding, castle-like impressive estate - visible on the Haardt hill from afar - in the Neustadt suburb of Haardt, the so called balcony of the Pfalz with a very favorable microclimate, has been in the Müller-Catoir family since 1744. For more than a century the winery was managed by women who left a pronounced mark on the estate. Today ninth generation Philipp David Catoir is running the winery. The 60 acres of vineyards are farmed organically and winemaking in the cellar is gentle with fermentation at a higher than usual temperature and exclusively in stainless steel. The Müller-Catoir wines show an outstanding transparency and density, and even in lesser years are full-bodied and of high quality.

Andrea Müller was our host.













11:00 pm Tour and tasting at winery A. Christmann (VDP) in Gimmeldingen, Pfalz.

Weingut A. Christmann is owned and run in the 7th generation by Steffen Christmann, who is the current President of the VDP. Since its founding in 1845 the estate has produced Riesling and Pinot Noir. Devotion to soil vitality and the preservation and individuality of the terroir has lead Steffen Christmann to practice organic agriculture, strict vineyard management, and severe yield reduction. In the cellar, he employs long and gentle pressing with low pressure, clarification through natural sedimentation, and a slow, not too cool fermentation sometimes until as late as June with only one filtration. All of the wines are vinified in the dry style, because he feels that the conditions in his vineyards are ideal for producing dry wines.

Esther Grüttner was our host. Steffen Christmann joined us for an hour and discussed with us the new classification of the VDP.
















01:30 pm Lunch at Restaurant Leopold at winery von Winning in Deidesheim.





02:30 pm Tourt and tasting at winery von Winning (VDP) in Deidesheim, Pfalz.

This winery was founded by Dr. Andreas Deinhard in 1849. His son in law Leopold von Winning took over in 1907 and under his direction the estate enjoyed its heyday. Leopold von Winning dedicated his life to the winery and meticulously raised the quality of the wines to a new level. He was a founding member of the VDP, the association of German premium wineries. The estate lived through another owner and some ups and downs, and in 2007, the Neustadt businessman Achim Niederberger acquired the estate, undertook major renovations, and brought in a young ambitious team which pursued the original principles of producing top quality wines. The style of the von Winning wines is unique in Germany: “We ferment our musts relatively turbid and without artificial cooling in different size oak barrels using their indigenous yeasts. Here the precious phenols polymerize to bestow a deep and complex aroma upon our wines. Subsequently, the wines are bottled with minimal handling and often without the aid of filtration. This approach is our way of expressing both world-class vineyards, such as the legendary Kirchenstück of Forst, as well as the distinctive style of our winery.”











05:30 pm Tour and tasting at winery Josef Biffar in Deidesheim.

The Biffar winery is a young enterprise with a 130 old history. In 2013 the Biffar family sold the estate to the Tokuoka family, entrepreneurs from Japan. Driving force behind this acquisition was Fumiko Tokuoka, who studied oenology and winemaking at the famous Geisenheim school in the Rheingau. After working for almost two decades in marketing for German wineries she took the opportunity to pursue her dream to make her own wine.

Fumiko Tokuoka was our host.













07:30 pm Wine pairing dinner at restaurant FUMI at winery Josef Biffar in Deidesheim.

German wine and Asian food is a perfect combination and who would be better suited than Fumiko to pair her German wines from her adopted country with the cuisine of her homeland.

Fumiko Tokuoka joined us for the dinner.












11:00 pm Back at Hotel Ritter von Böhl in Deidesheim, Pfalz.

DAY 6: Friday, September 04

09:30 am Tour and tasting at winery Markus Schneider in Ellerstadt, Pfalz.

For centuries the Schneider family has been living in Ellerstadt and owned vineyards, but did not produce wine and instead sold the grapes. Markus Schneider founded the winery in 1994 and has made himself a name within a short period of time with innovative, non-traditional wines. He increasingly shifted to making blends, based on international grape varieties, such as Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah and Merlot, which were a novelty for Germany. At the same time, the wines were marketed with non-traditional, modern labels and wine names; these wines became increasingly appealing for young consumers and the hip crowd. Markus Schneider markets all his wines as QbA, without any reference to the predicate level (that have been dominating the German wine classification for decades) and without any reference to the vineyard(s) were the grapes come from (moving away from the terroir principle that has become increasingly important for traditional German wine producers). In 2003, Markus Schneider was voted Newcomer of the Year by the Feinschmecker (the top German gourmet magazine), and in 2006, as Discovery of the Year. Within only a few years, Markus Schneider has shot to the upper echelons of the German wine world and established a solid position among the top. President Obama already savored Schneider wines at the luncheon given by Chancellor Merkel during Obama’s visit to Berlin last year.

Markus Schneider was our host.















12:00 pm Lunch at Weinhaus Henninger in Kallstadt.



02:10 pm Tour and tasting at winery Koehler-Ruprecht in Kallstadt, Pfalz.

I could not describe the winery Koehler-Ruprecht better. Therefore I quote them: “Our motto, “Wine is the poetry of the earth,” (Mario Soldati, 1907-1999) sums up our philosophy. When it comes to wine production, the most important thing for us is the quality that ends up in the glass! This standard creates wines with a perfect balance of strength, elegance and longevity, and many of our wines have garnered attention throughout the world. Our successful development was initiated by Bernd Philippi. He is often able to create wines with amazingly long shelf lives, especially Rieslings, which can sometimes come across as a bit headstrong in their younger days. But over time they undergo an interesting development that is valued by many experts.”

Franziska Schmitt was our host.














04:45 pm Tasting at winery Dreissigacker in Bechtheim, Rheinhessen.

The history of the estate, a mixed farming operation, where winemaking was one of several agriculture pursuits, goes back to the early 18th century and the owners were known as the Sauer family. In 1952, Christa Sauer married Philipp Dreissigacker and they continued the mixed farming operation. In 1991, the parents of the current proprieter, Jochen Dreissigacker, abandoned the mixed farming approach and focused solely on winemaking. In 2001, Jochen took over and made radical changes, converting the estate to organic viticulture. Today, the name Dreissigacker stands for outstanding wines of the highest quality. Rheinhessen is the most underrated wine region in Germany, but is catching up with a vengeance. There are no breathtakingly steep vineyards, the vines grow on gentle slopes with shallow deposits of loess and loam, overlying a bedrock of active limestone—reminiscent of the great terroirs of Burgundy. There is an increasingly large group of young and ambitious winemakers and Jochen is at the vanguard of the revolution in quality for the region. This quote says it all: “When I took over the family winery I wanted to realize my own ideas. I made a decision: good is not enough - I want to make something truly extraordinary; something delicious – it should be thrilling; a pleasant taste – it should be highly distinctive.”

Ute Dreissigacker was our host.









07:30 pm At the Hotel Hilton in Mainz - a 5-star hotel situated on the edge of the old town on the picturesque banks of the Rhine River. Some rooms have a beautiful view towards the hills of the Rheingau on the other side of the Rhine River.

In the evening, we went to a local wine tavern, Weinhaus Bluhm.


DAY 7: Saturday, September 05

09.00 am Guided walking tour through Mainz.

We admired the colorful fruit and vegetable market, one of the biggest and most beautiful year-round outdoor markets at the foot of the 1000 year old cathedral.




11:30 am Cellar tour, tasting, and wine pairing lunch at winery Eva Vollmer in Mainz-Ebersheim, Rheinhessen.

Eva Vollmer was the 2010 Gault Millau Germany Wine Guide Discovery of the Year. She owns and operates - jointly with her husband Robert Wagner - a new Wine Estate in Rheinhessen in the suburbs of Mainz. After studies at the oenological school in Geisenheim and an internship in California at William Hill and Atlas Peak, she founded the winery in 2007. She took over the vineyards of her father, who did not produce wine, and sold all his grapes. Since then, she has not only produced outstanding wines, but also completed a Masters in Agriculture and a Phd at the University of Giessen. The very first vintage in 2007 was Eva Vollmer’s big bang on the national wine stage. Only just under 5,000 bottles were filled from the first vintage. Wine Estate Eva Vollmer is in the process of moving to organic wine growing. For some wine projects she teams up with two winemaker colleagues, Christina Huff and Mirjam Schneider, both also from Rheinhessen. The three are nicknamed the 3 Wine Amazons and they currently produce some outstanding wines from the famous Pettenthal vineyard in the Niersteiner Red Slope where the three hold some parcels. Eva is very artsy; among other events she organizes blind food/wine pairing events and vaudeville shows.

Eva Vollmer was our host and joined us for the lunch.


















03:00 pm Arrival at Frankfurt International Airport. End of the tour.

Postings on the Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015) (Posted and Forthcoming)

4 Wine Tours by ombiasy coming up in 2015: Germany-East, Germany-South. Germany-Nord and Bordeaux

Fall Tours by ombiasy WineTours 2015 - A Very Special Treat: Experience Harvest Time !

Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Tour and Tasting at Weingut Schloss Neuweier (VDP) in Baden-Baden-Neuweier with Owner and Winemaker Robert Schätzle

Wine Pairing Lunch at Röttele’s 1 Restaurant (1 Star Michelin) at Schloss Neuweier, with Owner and Winemaker Robert Schätzle, Weingut Schloss Neuweier

Tour and Tasting at Weingut Salwey (VDP) in Baden with Benno Salwey

Tour and Tasting at Weingut Franz Keller (VDP) in Oberbergen, Kaiserstuhl, Baden

Wine Paring Lunch at Restaurant Schwarzer Adler (1 Star Michelin) in Oberbergen, Kaiserstuhl, Baden

Schiller's Favorite Wine Taverns of Freiburg

Tour and Tasting at Weingut Bernhard Huber (VDP) in Baden, with Yquem Viehauser

Tour and Tasting at Weingut Dr. Heger (VDP) in Baden.

Tour and Tasting at Maison Léon Beyer in Eguisheim, Alsace, France, with Marc Beyer

Tour and Tasting at Domaine Weinbach in Kaysersberg, Alsace, with Catharine Faller

Wine Pairing Lunch at Wine Tavern Jülg, Weingut Jülg, in Schweigen, with Johannes Jülg

Tasting at Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz (VDP) in Siebeldingen, Pfalz

Schiller's Favorite Wine Taverns in Deidesheim

Tour and Tasting at Weingut Müller-Catoir in Neustadt-Haardt, Pfalz

Tour and Tasting at Weingut A. Christmann (VDP) in Gimmeldingen, Pfalz, with Steffen Christmann

Tour and Tasting at Weingut von Winning (VDP) in Deidesheim, Pfalz

Tour and Tsting at Weingut Josef Biffar in Deidesheim, with Owner and Winemaker Fumiko Tokuoka

Wine Pairing Dinner at Restaurant FUMI at Weingut Josef Biffar in Deidesheim, with Owner and Winemaker Fumiko Tokuoka

Tour and Tasting at Weingut Markus Schneider in Ellerstadt, Pfalz, with Markus Schneider

Tour and Tasting at Weingut Koehler-Ruprecht in Kallstadt, Pfalz, with Franziska Schmitt

Tasting at Weingut Dreissigacker in Bechtheim, Rheinhessen, with Ute Dreissigacker

Tour and Wine Pairing Lunch at Weingut Eva Vollmer in Mainz-Ebersheim, Rheinhessen, with Eva Vollmer



Germany’s Grosses Gewächs GG Wines Released (2014 White and 2013 Red) - Notes from the Pre-release Tasting in Wiesbaden, Germany

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Picture: Germany’s Grosses Gewächs GG Pre-release Tasting in Late August 2015 in Wiesbaden, Germany

Germany’s VDP.Grosse Gewaechs – Grand Cru - vintage 2014 white wines and vintage 2013 red wines were released on September 1, 2015. These are the ultra-premium dry wines from the very best vineyard sites made by some of the best producers in Germany.

At this annual occasion, a number of presentations by the VDP – the association of German elite winemakers - take place in Germany, including one in Berlin during the first days of September and one later in the month in Frankfurt am Main.

Pre-release Tasting in Wiesbaden

One presentation that clearly stands out is the pre-release tasting for a group of about 120 wine journalists, bloggers, sommeliers, retailers, importers, etc from all over the world, but mainly from Germany, in the old Kurhaus in the stately German spa town of Wiesbaden, which is 45 minutes’ drive from Frankfurt. It is a seated, very well organized tasting where you have the chance to go through the VDP Grosses Gewaechs wines during 2 days.

Pictures: Wiesbaden

The invitations for this event are highly sought after. This year, I was happy to get again invited by the VDP and to participate in the event. Others I saw at the event were US wine importer Rudi Wiest, Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland editor Joel B. Payne, winemaker, blogger and internet-TV star Dirk Wuertz and Riesling guru and wine journalist Stuart Pigott, Master of Wine Caro Maurer from Germany, new Robert Parker team member Stephan Reinhardt, who has replaced David Schildknecht, US Importer Justin Christoph from New York and Anne Krebiehl, MW, from London.

See here for last years' tastings:
Germany’s 2013 Grosses Gewaechs– Grand Cru - Wines Released. Notes from the Pre-release Tasting in August 2014 in Wiesbaden, Germany
Germany’s 2012 VDP.Grosses Gewaechs – Grand Cru - Wines Released. Notes from the Pre-release Tasting in Wiesbaden, Germany
Germany’s 2011 VDP Grosses Gewaechs – Grand Cru - Wines Released. Notes from the Pre-release Tasting in Wiesbaden, Germany

Grosses Gewaechs (GG)

What is a VDP.Grosses Gewaechs? There is still a bit of confusion out there, as (1) Grosses Gewaechs (GG) is a term that was created by the VDP only a few years ago and (2) the VDP has established a new classification for German wines that differs radically from the German standard classification (and is still in the process of refining and implementing it). The latest revisions were those that came into effect with the vintage 2012.

Pictures: Germany’s Grosses Gewächs GG Pre-release Tasting in Late August 2015 in Wiesbaden, Germany

Grosses Gewaechs Wines and the New German Wine Classification

Although many people think that there is only one wine classification system in Germany – the classification system of the Law of 1971 – this is not correct. True, the classification system of the Law of 1971 is the standard classification system in Germany and the vast majority of winemakers in Germany use this approach. A large number of winemakers, however, have moved away from the standard, in particular the VDP producers.

In a nutshell, the VDP is moving to a classification system that resembles very much the classification system in the Bourgogne. The classification of the VDP puts the terroir principle at the center of its classification approach.

With the latest modifications of 2012, the absolutely finest vineyards are called Grosse Lage (for the 2011 vintage still called Erste Lage) and dry wines from these super top vineyards are called Grosses Gewächs. Grosses Gewächs wines are the finest dry wines from Germany’s finest vineyards.

Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller

To qualify for the Grosses Gewächs label, a number of criteria need to be respected. (i) The fruit has to come from a Grosse Lage vineyard. (ii) At harvest, the grapes need to be at least at Spätlese level in terms of the sugar content. (iii) Only certain – typical - grape varieties are allowed, including Riesling and Spätburgunder. Riesling is the only varietal allowed for Grosse Lage wines in the Mosel, Nahe, and Mittelrhein, but grapes like Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir), Lemberger, Fruehburgunder, Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc), Grauburgunder (Pinot Gris), Gewuerztraminer, and Silvaner are included in other regions. (iv) Further restrictions apply: there are yield restrictions; only hand picking of grapes is permitted and harvest must be late in the autumn.

See also:
Steffen Christmann (Weingut A. Christmann) and Wilhelm Weil (Weingut Robert Weil) Presented the New Wine Classification of the VDP, Germany

The VDP

The VDP is the world’s oldest association of wine estates in the world. In fact, it is the only one of its kind worldwide. No other country has a national organization of the top wine makers of the entire country.

Throughout the past century, the quality-driven goals and strict standards of the VDP have played no small part in shaping the viticultural and winemaking practices in Germany. With their stringent statutes and their establishment of a German vineyard classification, the 200 members of the VDP have served as role models and justifiably can be viewed as the vanguard of the nation’s producers of top-quality wines.

Picture: Stuart Pigott

What did we have in the Glass in Wiesbaden?

This is what we had in the glass in Wiesbaden: White VDP.Grosses Gewächs wines from 2014 and red VDP.Grosses Gewächs wines mostly from 2013, but some also from earlier vintages. Typically, the red GGs are released a year later than the white GGs, i.e. most of the red wines were vintage 2013.

Overall, 536 GGs from 162 VDP producers were released on September 1, 2015 and could be tasted in Wiesbaden. This was an increase of 27 wines, compared with the year before.

The tasting covered all winegrowing regions in Germany and it did not cover just Riesling. Grosses Gewächs status has been approved for Silvaner, Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc), Grauburgunder (Pinot Gris), Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir), and Lemberger, plus even a Chardonnay was included this year. But the majority of the wines were, of course, Riesling wines, and each region’s wines are grouped together for comparison.

The GGs came from 272 vineyard sited. Riesling dominated the show, accounting for 55 percent or 297 wines of the total. Pinot Noir followd with 11 wines.

In terms of the regional distribution, the Pfalz showed the largest number of GGs – 107 wines, followed by Baden (93), Württemberg (59), Rheingau (58), Franken (55), Mosel (52) and Rheinhessen (51).

Not all potential GG wines were presented in Wiesbaden, because (1) a number of wines did not pass the internal review of the VDP and thus will never be released as GG and (2) increasingly, winemakers are holding their wines back to release them later. For example, the 2014 Kirchenstück of Dr. Bürklin-Wolf will only be released in March 2016, to give it more time to develop. Julisspital decided to present its white GGs not after 12 months, but after 24 months aging. Peter Jakob Kühn did not show any wines. And so on.

Picture: Joel B. Payne

Ahr

The Ahr valley north of the 50 °latitude is unquestionable the northernmost region for producing top Pinot-Noirs. The secret lies in an ideal micro-climate found in the narrow canyons along the river with their very special geological conditions, and south-facing slopes. Wine making along the tiny Ahr River goes back to Roman times.

The Ahr region showed only red wines: 3 Frühburgunder GGs and 14 Spätburgunder GGs.

Schiller’s Favorites: Meyer-Näkel (Sonnenberg, Pfarrwingert and Kräuterberg)

Picture: Stephan Reinhardt (Robert Parker)

There is a red wine revolution going on in Germany and the world increasingly takes note of it. Of course, given its location, the red wines of Germany tend to be not like the fruity red wines we know from warmer countries, but lean and more elegant, with a lot of finesse. 30 years ago, the share of red wine in total German wine output was not more than 10 percent; in the international wine scene, people would not talk about German red wine. But this is changing. Germany now produces red wines that can compete with the best of the world; the share of red wines in terms of production has increased to about 35 percent now in Germany and increasingly the international market takes note of what is happening in Germany.

Today, Germany is the third biggest producer of Pinot Noir (called Spaetburgunder in Germany), after France and the US, with more planted than Australia and New Zealand combined.

Picture: The Ahr GG Wines

Baden

Baden is the most southerly German wine-growing area in Germany's southwestern corner. On the other side of the Rhine Valley is Alsace. Baden is known for its pinot wines – red, grey and white.

The Spätburgunder is the most widely grown variety in Baden, but Baden showed also a number of GGs from other grape varities.

Baden showed the largest number of Spätburgunder GGs, with those of Weingut Bernhard Huber standing out, but those of Weingut Salwey and Weingut Dr. Heger also showing very well.

Baden also showed 15 Grauer Burgunder (Pinot Gris) GGs and 10 Weisser Burgunder (Pinot Blanc) GGs.
In addition, Baden showed 1 Blaufränkisch GG (Weingut Seger Herrenberg Spermen), 3 Chardonnay GGs and 6 Riesling GGs.

Picture: Weingut Bernhard Huber GGs

Franken

Franken is known for its crisp, crystal clear wines from their signature grape Silvaner. Indeed, it was the only region to show Silvaner GGs, excellent wines, but hard to find outside of Germany.

Schiller’s Favorites: Am Stein, Ludwig Knoll, Stein, Bickel-Stumpf, Mönchshof

Franken also showed 15 Riesling GGs and 1 Weisser Burgunder GG.

3 of the 6 Spätburgunder GGs which Franken showed came from Franken’s red wine star Weingut Rudolf Fürst: Schlossberg, Centgrafenberg and Hundsrück.

Justin Christoph (New York) - For Franken Riesling GGs this year, it was Wirsching and Weltner at the top, then everybody else @grapeylyle

Picture: The Franken Riesling GGs

Picture: Weingut Fürst GGs

Hessische Bergstrasse

No wines.

Mittelrhein

Mittelrhein showed 3 Riesling GGs and 1 Spätburgunder GG. Both the Riesling and Spätburgunder Hahn GG of Toni Jost were excellent.

Picture: The Rudi Wiest Team from the USA

Mosel

Traditionally, the Mosel is not a region well known for its ultra-premium dry white wines. Instead, the fruity sweet Kabinett, Spätlese and Auslese wines as well as the noble sweet BA, TBA and Eiswein wines are sought after all over the world by the lovers of fruity and noble sweet wines. But things are changing and the Mosel showed an impressive list of Riesling GGs. In particular, I like the GGs of Clemens Busch (Marienburg, Marienburg Rothenpfad, Marienburg Fahrlay, Marienburg Falkenlay) and Dr. Loosen (Treppchen, Prälat, Würzgarten, Sonnenuhr, Himmelreich, Lay). In total, the Mosel showed about 40 GGs, all Riesling – no other grape variety.

Picture: Dr. Loosen GGs

Justin Christoph (New York) - Top 2014 Mosel Riesling Grosses Gewachs from the Wiesbaden presentation: 1. Fritz Haag, Juffer-Sonnenuhr 2. Clemens Busch, Marienburg "Fahrlay" 3. Karthäuserhof, Karthäuserhofberg 4. Heymann-Löwenstein, Uhlen "Blaufüßer Lay" 5. Peter Lauer, Schonfels 6. Heymann-Löwenstein, Röttgen 7. Clemens Busch, Marienburg "Falkenlay" 8. Peter Lauer, Saarfeilser

Picture: Justin Christoph from New York

Nahe

Like the Mosel, the Nahe showed only Riesling GGs – a total of 22 wines. My favorites were Kruger-Rumpf (Dautenpflänzer, Im Pitterberg), Diel (Pittermännchen, Goldloch, Burgberg) and Dönnhoff (Dellchen, Hermannshöhle).

Justin Christoph (New York) - My Top 2014 Nahe Riesling Grosses Gewachs tasted in Wiesbaden: 1. Schäfer-Fröhlich, Felseneck 2. Diel, Pittermännchen 3. Schäfer-Fröhlich, Stromberg 4. Emrich-Schönleber, Halenberg 5. Kruger-Rumpf, Dautenpflänzer 6. Diel, Burgberg 7. Donnhoff, Felsenberg.

Picture: Yves Beck from Switzerland

Pfalz

The Pfalz belongs to the group of regions that showed both white and red GGs. As for the white GGs, it showed Riesling and Weisser Burgunder GGs.

The Pfalz showed almost 60 Riesling GGs and many of my fellow tasters thought that these wines were the stars of the whole presentation. Among those, I saw the wines of A. Christmann (Langenmorgen, Reiterpfad In der Hohl, Idig, Mandelgarten) and Ökonomierat Rebholz (Im Sonnenschein, Ganz Horn im Sonnenschein, Kastanienbusch) in the lead.

Turning to the Weisser Burgunder, I liked the Langenmorgen of von Bassermann-Jordan best among the 12 wines presented.

Picture: Anne Krebiehl, MW, from London

Rheingau

The Rheingau is the region that is closest to my heart. My wife Annette and I discovered the world of wines with the wines of Rheingau, while we lived in Mainz for 10 years. The Rheingau also showed 6 Spätburgunder GGs, but was one of the dominating forces, as far as the Riesling GGs are concerned. Overall, they all were a tick drier than last year, as the Rheingau in general is trying to brng the remaining sugar level in its Riesling GGs down. Künsterl, Toni Jost, Robert Weil, Barth, Jakob Jung, Achim von Oetinger, Josef Spreitzer, Fritz Allendorf, J. Wegeler, Schloss Johannisberg, Baltasar Ress, Leitz all showed super wines.

Flight 18 with 5 Berg Rottland Riesling GGs ( Balthasar Ress, Johannishof, Künstler, Leitz, von Mumm) was one of the most interesting flights of the tasting for me.

Picture: Guiseppe Lauria, Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland

Rheinhessen

Rheinhessen showed 34 Riesling GGs and 8 Spätburgunder GGs. Among the Riesling flights, flight 25 was my favorite: it included the Pettenthal from St. Antony, Rappenhof, Gunderloch and Kühling-Gillot. They were all excellent, with the last two perhaps standing out.

Overall, Gunderloch (Rothenberg, Pettenthal, Hipping), Keller (Hubacker), Kühling Gillot (Rothenberg, Ölberg, Hipping) Wittmann (Aulerde, Kirchspiel, Brunnenhäuschen, Morstein) and Battenfeld Spanier (Am Schwarzen Herrgott, Frauenberg, Kirchenstück) were my favorites.

Paul Truskowski: The Star of this years Grosse Gewächs Preview is definitely Johannes Hasselbach and his team of Weingut #Gunderloch. The collection of three Grand Cru Rieslings - #Hipping #Pettenthal and #Rothenberg - is not just impressive. It is the benchmark. At Roter Hang and also in complete #Rheinhessen. Chapeau! #vdpgg15

Justin Christoph (New York) - Top '14 Rheinhessen GGs: 1. Battenfeld-Spanier, Am Schwarzen Herrgott 2. Battenfeld-Spanier, Frauenberg 3. Kühling-Gillot, Rothenberg 4. Groebe, Kirchspiel 5.Wittman, Aulerde 6.Wagner-Stempel, Heerkretz 7.Kühling-Gillot, Pettenthal 8.St. Antony, Pettenthal 9.Wittman, Morestein

Picture: Flight 27 (Rheinhessen)

Saale Unstrut

The tiny wine region in the former GDR, showed 2 GGs, both by Pawis and both excellent: Riesling Edelacker and Weisser Burgunder Edelacker.

Sachsen

The other tiny region in the former GDR, Sachsen, did not present any wines.

Württemberg

Wine from Württemberg is mainly red wine. The main production area is along the Neckar river between Stuttgart and Heilbronn and, more wine is consumed here than anywhere else in Germany - actually twice as much as in the rest of Germany. The German poet Friedrich von Schiller wrote already several centuries ago: “A Württemberger without wine--is that a real Württemberger?”

Wines from Baden and Württemberg are hard to find in the US. This is partly explained by the production structure, which is dominated by co-operatives. Much of the wine sector in Baden and Württemberg is in the hands of local co-operatives. These co-operatives are known for producing top class wines. But they tend to be less aggressive in terms of penetrating new markets. Stuart Pigott, the German wine writer, believes that Württemberg is the area with the largest potential for quality growth in Germany.

Württemberg showed 16 Riesling GGs.

Schiller’s Favorites: Neipperg (Ruthe, Schlossberg), Wachstetter (Höhenberg), Dautel (Sonnenberg), Schnaitmann (Götzberg, Lämmler).

Picture: Dautel and Schnaitmann GGs

In addition, in terms of white wines, Württemberg showed 2 Weisser Burgunder GGs and 1 Grauer Burgunder GG.

Turning to red GGs, Württemberg showed 11 Spätburgunder GGs.

Allmost all of the Lemberger GGs were from Württemberg, with the wines of von Neipperg (Ruthe, Schlossberg), Dautel (Michaelsberg) and Schnaitmann (Lämmler) standing out.

Picture: The End

schiller-wine: Related Postings

4 Wine Tours by ombiasy coming up in 2015: Germany-East, Germany-South. Germany-Nord and Bordeaux

Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014

Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014

Germany’s 2013 Grosses Gewaechs– Grand Cru - Wines Released. Notes from the Pre-release Tasting in August 2014 in Wiesbaden, Germany

Germany’s 2012 VDP.Grosses Gewaechs – Grand Cru - Wines Released. Notes from the Pre-release Tasting in Wiesbaden, Germany

Germany’s 2011 VDP Grosses Gewaechs – Grand Cru - Wines Released. Notes from the Pre-release Tasting in Wiesbaden, Germany


Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), Germany

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Picture: At Schloss Johannisberg in the Rheingau at "Spätlese Reiter" (Later Harvest Rider) Monument, with Christian Wiite, General Manager of Weingut Schloss Johannisberg

The Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (September 6 – September 12, 2015) was the third of three wine tours in Germany in 2015, organized by Annette Schiller. The group was small - there were 7 of us, including Annette and Christian Schiller. This posting provides an overview. More specific postings focusing on individual events will follow (see list below).

On the Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours in 2015, we visited a total of 14 wineries in 5 different wine regions: Rheingau, the jewel in the crown, with its perfect, fuller bodied, racy Rieslings; Mittelrhein where the Rieslings grow on the steep slopes of the fortress- and castle-ribboned banks of the Rhine river; Ahr with its sun collecting canyons perfect for the finicky Pinot Noir grape; Mosel with its dizzying steep vineyards and famous elegant Rieslings; Nahe and its serene, peaceful valley where perfect harmonious wines reflect their roots.

Annette Schiller: Our way of traveling allows wine lovers to fully experience authentic Germany. Drawing on our love and deep knowledge of Germany and close personal ties to many personalities in the wine scene, our small group visits many of the hidden gems that other tours pass by, but which are essential to comprehend what German wine is all about.

DAY 1: Sunday, September 06

09:30 am Departure in Frankfurt.


10:30 am Tour and tasting at winery Baron Knyphausen (VDP) in Erbach, Rheingau.

The winery Baron Knyphausen goes back to one of the oldest viticultural enterprises. The Draiser Hof -home of the winery- was built in 1141 by the Cistercian monks of the Eberbach Abbey to cultivate the monastery’s vineyards and fields in Erbach and Eltville.

In 1818 the Baron zu Knyphausen family purchased the estate and the vineyards. The holdings include the famous Erbacher Marcobrunn, one of the top terroirs in the Rheingau. Almost 60 acres are under vines and planted mostly with Riesling (85%), and with 10% of Pinot Noir and 5% with indigenous grapes such as red Riesling.

Gerko Freiherr zu Knyphausen was our host.














12:45 pm Lunch at Restaurant & Gutsausschank Baiken in the vineyards above the town of Eltville.

This wine tavern sits right in the middle of the vineyards on the hill overlooking the town of Eltville. Indulge in the unrivaled view on the vineyards around you and the Rhine river below. Enjoy the food carefully selected and sourced from local farms and the excellent selection of wines from the Rheingau region.



03:00 pm At Weinhotel Koegler in Eltville - a small, upscale boutique hotel located within the historic walls of the Koegler winery in the center of Eltville with a wonderful combination of medieval stone walls and ultra modern décor. We spend the night in a house that made world history: In 1467 it was here that Johannes Gutenberg created the most important early prints of the oldest dictionary world-wide.



In the afternoon we explored the beautiful upmarket, historic town of Eltville situated right on the banks of the Rhine River. Annette and I took a break at the wine tasting booth at the river front and enjoyed watching the cargo boats that travel the river up- and downstream.


06:00 pm At Eberbach Abbey, where we attend a concert as part of the Rheingauer Music Festival.

Eberbach Abbey is a former Cistercian monastery, founded in 1136 by Bernard of Clairvaux as the first Cistercian monastery on the eastern bank of the Rhine river. Today Eberbach Abbey is one of the five State-owned wineries (the State of Hesse is its proprietor) and with 500 acres the largest winery in Germany. Its Romanesque and Gothic buildings are impressive. The vineyards of Eberbach Abbey were, at 750 acres, the largest in medieval Europe. We had the opportunity to tour the Abbey, including the old monk’s dormitory where every year the famous auction of premium German wines takes place. A very special treat was a peek into the treasure chamber, where century old wine bottles are still stored and where the movie “The Name of the Rose” with Sean Connery was filmed in 1986.





06:00 pm Multiple concerts (Lieder, Baroque Music, Guitar Music) in the different halls of the Eberbach Abbey, performed by members of the Frankfurt School of Music and Performing Arts.



08:00 pm Concert in the Basilika of Eberbach Abbey: “L’isola disabitata” by Joseph Haydn, performed by the ensemble of the Frankfurt School of Music and Performing Arts.


DAY 2: Monday, September 07

11:45 am Tour and Lunch with wine pairing at Wein- und Sektgut Barth in Hattenheim.

The Wine and Sekt Estate Barth was founded in 1948 by the father of Norbert Barth, the current owner. Besides excellent wines, from early on Barth produced sparkling wines – Sekt – and in 1992 a Sekt manufactury was completed to be able to produce the Sekts entirely at the premises. All Sekts are bottle fermented in the méthod traditionelle starting with base wine production, subsequent bottling, bottle fermentation, hand-riddling, and disgorging. All Sekts remain on the lease between 24 and 36 months. In 2010 Barth released the first ever German sparkler made from a Premier Cru base wine. The novelty was named Barth Primus, and put Barth on the map for the serious Sekt lover.

Mark P. Barth was our host.














03:00 pm Visit and tasting at winery Josef Spreitzer (VDP) in Oestrich.

The winery Spreitzer is one of the oldest in Oestrich and can look back to a viticulture tradition since 1641. Current owners are the brothers Andreas and Bernd and they share the opinion that wine is both, a philosophy of life and a tremendous joie de vivre. Their 46 acres of vineyards are planted with the Rheingau’s classic varietals, Riesling (97%) and Pinot Noir (3%). Quality is of utmost importance here and the gorgeous vaulted cellar, built in 1743, guarantees perfect conditions for storing and ageing the wines. The results are aromatic Rieslings that regularly are rated among the best of the Rheingau.

Bernd Speitzer was our host.














05:00 pm Departure for Bacherach

On the way we stopped at the Oestricher Kran, a former wine barrel loading crane dating from 1744. This is the only preserved testimonial of an old technique to load and discharge cargo. The Oestricher Kran was in use until 1926.


The short journey to Bacharach involved a ferry ride across the Rhine river. There is no bridge across the Rhine River for some 70 miles between Mainz and Koblenz to not destroy the beauty of the Rhine valley.


06:00 pm At Hotel Altkölnischer Hof in Bacharach, Mittelrhein, a 3 star charming, family run hotel with all modern amenities in the center of the romantic 1000 year old town of Bacharach.



The evening in this more than 1000 year old town with its castles, church spires, medieval city wall, and half-timbered houses on the shore of the Rhine River was fascinating. This was pure “Rheinromantik”.



DAY 3: Tuesday, September 08

09:00 am Visit and tasting at winery Toni Jost (VDP) in Bacharach, Mittelrhein.

For over 180 years, the Jost family has been cultivating vineyards in Bacharach. The family’s focus was always on acquiring vineyards in Bacharach’s top site, the so-called Hahn. Today, five generations later the “Hahn” almost exclusively belongs to the Jost estate. Current owner is Peter Jost together with his daughter Cecilia, who is also the winemaker. The 37 acres of vineyard land are planted mostly with Riesling (80%). 15% is planted with Pinot-Noir, and the rest with Pinot-Blanc, and Dunkelfelder (a cross breed between Farbertraube and Blauer Portugieser, however more sophisticated DNA tests show different parents). One third of the vineyards are located in the Rheingau region, in Walluf and Martinsthal. Because of these vineyards in the Rheingau the estate has been a member of the VDP Rheingau since 1989. In 1987 Peter Jost was founding member of the VDP Mittelrhein.

Cecilia Jost was our host.









11:15 am Cruise on the Rhine River from Bacharach to Boppard.

We took a cruise on the Rhine, passing the famous Loreley Rock and the slopes of the Mittelrhein wine region. Time to indulge in the breathtakingly beautiful view of the Rhine River and its banks dotted with castles, fortresses, and ruins dating from the middle ages. The Middle-Rhine valley is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site.








12:50 pm Lunch at the beautiful Belle Epoque restaurant Le Bristol in the Hotel Bellevue in Boppard right on the Rhine river.



04:30 pm Visit and tasting at winery J.J.Adeneuer in Bad Neuenahr-Ahrweiler, Ahr.

This winery has been in the hands of the same family for 500 years. The brothers Marc and Frank concentrate exclusively on the red Pinot grapes: Pinot Noir (90%) and Pinot Noir Précoce (10%). They explain the reason for their decision: “At the end of the day, Pinot Noir is always good for a surprise and therefore, it requires more attention.” For the Adeneuers, terroir is noy just a trendy word, but rather “the soul of the wines”. They are the sole owners of the spectacular site “Walporzheimer Gärkammer”.

Marc Adeneuer was our host.










06:45 pm At hotel Ännchen in Bad Neuenahr-Ahrweiler, a 3 star family run hotel within the medieval town walls in Ahrweiler on the pedestrian precinct.




We had dinner in the medieval Old Town and tried some more fine Ahr wines.

DAY 4: Wednesday, September 09

09:30 am Vineyard walk and tasting at winery Meyer-Näkel (VDP) in Dernau, Ahr.

This winery has long been recognized as one of the top estates for producing great Pinot-Noirs. The Ahr valley north of the 50 °latitude is unquestionable the northernmost region for producing top Pinot-Noirs. The secret lies in an ideal micro-climate found in the narrow canyons along the river with their very special geological conditions, and south-facing slopes. Wine making along the tiny Ahr river goes back to Roman times. The Meyer-Näkel wine estate as we know it today was established upon the marriage of Paula Meyer and Willibald Näkel, the parents of the current owner. Although Willibald Näkel only cultivated 4.5 acres under vines he was already a pioneer for the then rather unusual dry red wines from the Ahr valley. Today’s winery encompasses 48 acres and is managed by Werner Näkel, his wife Claudia and their daughters Meike and Dőrte.

Dörte Näkel was our host.














12:30 pm Lunch at Historisches Gasthaus Hammesmühle in Mayen.



04:15 pm Tasting at winery Dr. Loosen in Bernkastel-Kues, Mosel.

The Dr.Loosen winery has been in the hands of the Loosen family for over 200 years. Located just outside of Bernkastel, it is one of the larger producers in the Mosel region with 130,000 bottles produced annually. In the US the winery is particularly known for its sweeter style Rieslings of top quality. Ernst Loosen is the current owner and while most often associated with the sweet-style, low alcohol wines very often to be found on the shelves of wine stores in the US, he is producing top dry Rieslings on the Premier and Grand Cru (GG) level, which he recently introduced to the market in the US. He also produces white and red wines in the Pfalz in Germany (J.L.Wolf winery) and in the US in Washington state (Chateau St. Michelle) and in Oregon (J. Christopher wines).

Markus Schulte was our host.















06:45 pm At Märchenhotel in Bernkastel-Kues, a 4 star elegant cultural heritage hotel that opened its door to travelers in 1640. It is owned and managed by the 10th generation of the same family. It is located in the center of the picturesque village of Bernkastel.





We had a lovely evening in this picture-perfect little town, had a glass of Mosel Riesling at the Spitzenhäuschen, and walked along the banks of the Mosel River.






DAY 5: Thursday, September 10

09:30 am Tasting at winery St. Urbans-Hof (VDP) in Leiwen, Mosel.

St. Urbans-Hof is a rather young wine estate by European standards. The winery was established in 1947 by the grandfather of the current owner Nik Weis. Nik’s father, Hermann Weis mastered the art of vine grafting and was well known in Germany and beyond for his skills. He was particularly known for his work with the Riesling grape. In the beginning of the 70s, he pioneered the use of Riesling in Canada, which was then still new to the idea of quality wine making. Hermann Weis planted the first Riesling vines in the Niagara Peninsula. This developed later into the Vineland Estate Winery. At home in Leiwen he expanded the estate considerably and his son Nik now cultivates 79 acres of vines in a broad spectrum of outstanding sites in the Mosel and Saar valleys. In 2010 the Feinschmecker (the most prestigious gourmet and wine magazine in Germany) ranked St. Urbans-Hof among Germany’s 16 five star wine estates. The wines show elegance, lightness and finesse. The majority of the production goes into the export and the St. Urbans-Hof wines are widely available in the US and Canada.

Nik Weis was our host.














01:00 pm Vineyard tour, tasting and wine pairing lunch at winery Van Volxem (VDP) in Wiltingen, Saar valley, Mosel.

The Van Volxem winery is located in the center of the historic town of Wiltingen in the valley of the Saar river, a tributary of the Mosel. The foundation of the estate is a villa from Roman times, still visible today. Some of the estate’s best vineyard sites have already been laid out and cultivated by the Romans in the 3rd century and are among the steepest ever. The Van Volxem wines have a very distinctive purist style.

Roman Niewodniczanski was our host.

















06:00 pm At Mercure Hotel in Trier, a modern 4 star hotel near the heart of the city center and just across the street from the Porta Nigra.


06:30 pm Guided sightseeing tour through Trier.

Trier sits on the banks of the Mosel River and is the oldest city in Germany. In Roman times it was the largest city north of the Alps, and the second most important city of the Roman Empire. For some years it even became an imperial city. This 2000 year old city is a treasure trove of Roman and German history, and pagan and Christian culture. There is so much to see in Trier, but the famous landmarks from Roman times are a must: the Porta Nigra, the amphitheatre, and the imperial thermal baths. The most eminent citizen of Trier in modern times was Karl Marx, who was born and raised here.



07:30 pm Dinner at the Weinhaus in Trier.

This wine tavern has an excellent list of top wines from the Mosel, Ruwer, Saar Valleys, and also from other German wine regions, as well as from France, Italy, and Spain.



DAY 6: Friday, September 11

10:30 am Tasting at winery Hexamer, in Monzingen, Nahe.

Weingut Hexamer is a family-owned and run winery in Meddersheim in the Nahe region. The vineyard area totals 23 hectares in Meddersheim, Schlossböckelheim and Sobernheim, with Riesling accounting for 60 percent. The family name, Hexamer, dates back centuries in Germany and has a history of winemaking; however, it was not until the late 1990’s when the Hexamer family began producing commercially, i.e. when Harald Hexamer and his wife Petra took over.

Harald Hexamer is convinced that the key to making top wines is the work in the vineyard. Accordingly, Harald Hexamer’s meticulous work in the vineyard is marked by pruning to control yields (“often six to eight bunches per wine”) and hand-harvesting. The grapes are picked exclusively by hand and fermented very cold (below 12 degrees Celsius) with cooling utilized only when necessary – “but we often pick so late we bring naturally cold fruit — below 10 degrees — back to the winery.” Hexamer handles the wine as little as possible: no dosage is used, inoculations are made only with native yeasts, and all wines are whole-cluster pressed. 95% of all Rieslings at Hexamer are made in stainless steel and racked only once, three to six weeks after fermentation is complete.

Harald and Petra Hexamer were our hosts.









01:00 pm Lunch at Hermannshöhle, Restaurant Weck in Niederhausen.




02:45 pm Tour and tasting at Weingut Gut Hermannsberg (VDP), in Niederhausen, Nahe

This wine estate goes back to the year 1901 when the Prussian government founded the domain on steep, rugged land in the central Nahe valley as a model operation to help revive the wine industry after the phylloxera disaster. Planting vineyards here was an extraordinary effort: rocks had to be blasted and huge masses of earth moved. Until well into the 1980s the domain stayed in public hands. Owner was the State of Rhineland-Palatine, since 1946 the successor of the Prussian State. The estate was privatized in 1998. In 2010 it changed hands again and was renamed Gut Herrmannsberg. The new owners invested heavily and brought the estate back to its glory. The vineyards cover 30 hectares and all of which are located in Grand Cru sites. The legendary Kupfergrube, the monopol site Hermannsberg, and the unique Traiser Bastei number among the best Riesling sites in Germany and of the world.













05:30 pm At NH-Hotel in Bingen, a 4 star very modern hotel beautifully situated at the confluence of the Nahe and Rhine rivers, with stunning views across the Rhine to the vineyards and castles on the Rheingau side.



07:00 pm Dinner with wine pairing and cellar tour at winery and restaurant Kruger-Rumpf (VDP) in Münster-Sarmsheim, Nahe.

“In our family, viniculture has been a tradition since 1708 - a tradition that we have been cultivating in our vineyards as well as in our manor house which was built back in 1830” says Georg Rumpf. Today, the vineyard totals about 50 acres and the annual production is 14,000 cases. Georg Rumpf has taken over the winemaking at Weingut Kruger-Rumpf, while his father Stefan now focuses more on sales, and his mother Cornelia manages the restaurant. The wines, gourmet regional food, the hospitality and warmth of the family, and the ambiance in this lovely estate where modernism is perfectly combined with tradition, are outstanding.

Georg Rumpf was our host.














DAY 7: Saturday, September 12

09:00 am Departure. Again we took the ferry across the Rhine River to continue our journey.


09:30 am Tour and tasting at Sektmanufaktur Bardong in Geisenheim, Rheingau.

With this visit we honored the German’s affinity with the bubbly stuff. Did you know that the Germans are world champions in sparkling wine consumption? And that “Rotkäppchen” in Freyburg, in the Saale-Unstrut region is the world’s second largest sparkling wine producer after Freixenet? And that there are many top rated Sekt producers in Germany?

Our visit took us to one of the small, top notch Sekt (the German word for sparkling wine) producers. Norbert Bardong studied beverage technology at the Geisenheim Oenological University when he fell in love with Champagne and decided to make his own Sekt in the méthode traditionnelle to have a sparkler on par with the quality of the Champagne region. His philosophy: no mass production, top quality, “small but beautiful”, first class base wines, at least 36 months on the lease. We will learn on the ground what it entails to produce a first class Sekt.

Norbert Bardong was our host.
















11:45 am Cellar tour, tasting and lunch at Domaine Schloss Johannisberg (VDP) in Geisenheim, Rheingau.

This visit was a fitting finale and a highlight of our tour through the northern German wine regions. It is the world’s oldest Riesling wine estate going back 900 years and it was here that the “Spätlese” was accidently discovered. We will visit the historical casks cellar from 1721 and the former monastery cellar built nine centuries ago. For many centuries the estate was owned by the Prince-Abbot of Fulda, but changed hands several times during the Napoleonic wars and subsequent secularization. In 1816, Austrian Emperor Francis II, gave the estate to his Foreign Minister, Prince von Metternich, as a thank you for his successful negotiations in the reorganization of Europe during the “Congress of Vienna”. The last resident of the Metternich family at Schloss Johannisberg, Tatjana Princess von Metternich was a patron of the arts in the Rheingau and beyond and revived the castle to its former gory after the destructions during World War II. After her death in 2006, the Oetker family (yes, that's the one that produces baking helpers and puddings) bought the estate. Current estate manager is Christian Witte who fabulously manages the domaine and honors the long traditions at Schloss Johannisberg by focusing rigorously on quality. The Johannisberg wines show substance, considerable volume, and a spicy fruitiness paired with pronounced acidity.

Christian Witte was our host.





















03:15 pm Arrival at Frankfurt International Airport

Postings on the Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015) (Posted and Forthcoming)

4 Wine Tours by ombiasy coming up in 2015: Germany-East, Germany-South. Germany-Nord and Bordeaux

Fall Tours by ombiasy WineTours 2015 - A Very Special Treat: Experience Harvest Time !

Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Tour and Tasting at Weingut Baron Knyphausen in Erbach, Rheingau

Wine and Music at Eberbach Abbey

Tour and Wine Lunch at Wein- und Sektgut Barth in Hattenheim, Rheingau

Tour and Tasting at Weingut Josef Spreitzer in Oestrich, Rheigau

Wine Tasting at Weingut Toni Jost in Bacharach, Mittelrhein

Cruise on the Rhine River from Bacharach to Boppard, Mittelrhein

Wine Tasting at Weingut J.J.Adeneuer in Bad Neuenahr-Ahrweiler, Ahr

Vineyard Walk and Tasting at Weingut Meyer-Näkel in Dernau, Ahr

Wine Tasting at Weingut Dr. Loosen in Bernkastel-Kues, Mosel

Wine Tasting at Weingut St. Urbans-Hof in Leiwen, Mosel

Vineyard Tour, Tasting and Lunch at Weingut Van Volxem in Wiltingen, Saar, Mosel

Wine Tasting at Weingut Hexamer, in Monzingen, Nahe

Tour and Tasting at Weingut Gut Hermannsberg, in Niederhausen, Nahe

Tour and Wine Dinner at Weingut Kruger-Rumpf in Münster-Sarmsheim, Nahe

Tour and Tasting at Sektmanufaktur Bardong in Geisenheim, Rheingau

Tour, Tasting and Lunch at Domaine Schloss Johannisberg in Geisenheim, Rheingau

Rheinhessen Cru Wines (Lagenweine) 2014 Tasting in Mainz, Germany

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Picture: Christian Schiller, Philipp Wittmann, Weingut Wittmann, VDP President Rheinhessen, and Annette Schiller

Following the pre-release tasting of the 2014 (white) and 2013 (red) Grosse Gewächs (GG) wines in Wiesbaden on Monday and Tuesday, August 28/29, the top producers of Rheinhessen invited for a Rheinhessen Cru Wines (Lagenweine) Tasting on the following Wednesday, just across the Rhein River in Mainz.

See: Germany’s Grosses Gewächs GG Wines Released (2014 White and 2013 Red) - Notes from the Pre-release Tasting in Wiesbaden, Germany

Germany is moving to a terroir-based wine classification, designed along the lines of the Bourgogne classification. Accordingly, Rheinhessen presented dry premium wines of the 2014 (white) and 2013 (red) vintages from its best single vineyards. Interestingly, not only the top layer of quality winemakers in Rheinhessen, i.e. the VDP members, poured their wines, but also those winemakers that are knocking at the door of the VDP, i.e. the second layer of Rheinhessen winemakers in terms of quality.

Pictures: Jürgen Fendt, Sommelier, Hotel Restaurant Bareiss, Annette Schiller, Stefan Sander, Weingut Sander, and Philipp Wittmann

The New German Wine Classification

Although many people think that there is only one wine classification system in Germany – the classification system of the Law of 1971 – this is not correct. True, the classification system of the Law of 1971 is the standard classification system in Germany and the vast majority of winemakers in Germany use this approach. A large number of winemakers, however, have moved away from the standard, in particular the VDP producers. In a nutshell, the VDP is moving to a classification system that resembles very much the classification system in the Bourgogne.

Picture: Annette Schiller and Michael Schmidt (who covers Germany for Jancis Robinson)

Wilhelm Weil: “The new VDP Wine Classification System is basically a matrix classification.” On one axis you find the different quality levels of the wines, along the Burgundian terroir approach, with estate wines, village wines, first growth (premier cru) wines and great growth (grand cru) wines.

Like in the Bourgogne, the terroir principle has taken center stage in the VDP classification. Effective with the 2012 harvest, the VDP classification has the following 4 quality layers (In brackets, the equivalent quality classes in the classification system of the Bourgogne):

• VDP.Grosse Lage (Grand Cru in Burgundy)
• VDP.Erste Lage (Premier Cru in Burgundy)
• VDP.Ortswein (Village level in Burgundy)
• VDP.Gutswein (Bourgogne régional in Burgundy)

Note that for some legal reasons, the VDP has started to use the terms Grosse Lage, Erste Lage, Ortswein and Gutswein with the pre-fix VDP.

On the other axis, you find the sweetness levels: Trocken, Kabinett, Spätlese, Auslese, Beerenauslese and Trockenbeerenauslese as well as Eiswein. Please note that in the new VDP classification system the Prädikats have lost their critical importance that they have in the traditional classification system of 1971 and that they have changed their meaning. In the VDP classification system, they have become an indicator for the sweetness range of the finished wine, while in the traditional classification they are an indicator of the sugar content of the grapes at harvest. Generally, in the new VDP classification system, the Prädikats are to be used exclusively for wines with residual sweetness, “thereby enabling the Prädikats to resume their traditional meaning”, as stated by the VDP.

See also:
Steffen Christmann (Weingut A. Christmann) and Wilhelm Weil (Weingut Robert Weil) Presented the New Wine Classification of the VDP, Germany
The new (VDP) Wine Classification in Germany: Tasting Weingut Robert Weil Wines from Gutswein to Grosse Lage Wine

Picture: Annette Schiller and Derek Vinnicombe (US importer of German wine)

See also:Wine Caravan from Germany Visiting the US East Coast: Dr. Fischer, Fitz Ritter, Bollig-Lehnert, Schneider, Dr. Thanisch 

Rheinhessen: 3 Quality Levels Only – Gutswein, Ortswein, Lagenwein

The VDP Rheinhessen has modified the omnibus classification and reduced it to a 3 tier classification: Gutswein, Ortswein, Lagenwein for its wines. It does not distinguish between VDP.Grosse Lage wines and VDP.Erste Lage wines. All cru wines of VDP producers from Rheinhessen are VDP.Grosse Lage wines.

The Cru Wines Tasting in Mainz

40 elite winemakers from Rheinhessen presented their premium wines from the 2014 vintage (white) and from 2013 (red); some red wines were from 2011 and 2012. The Rheinhessen winemakers did not present any fruity-sweet wines (Kabinett, Spätlese, Auslese) from their best vineyards. All wines shown were dry wines. The top winemakers from Rheinhessen produce only a very limited amount of fruity-sweet wines. As a rule, premium wines from Rheinhessen are dry (or noble-sweet).

Pictures: Mainzer Schloss

The Rheinhessen Top Winemakers and Schiller's Favorite Wines

Here is a list of all the winemakers that poured their wines (VDP members and non-members). My favorite wines are indicated.

VDP: C. Spanier-Gillot and H.O. Spanier (Battenfeld-Spanier and Kühling-Gillot)
Favorites: 2014 Kirchenstück Riesling GG, 2013 Kirchenstück Spätburgunder GG, Pettenthal Riesling GG and 2013 Kreuz Spätburgunder GG
See also: Wine Tasting at Weingut Kühling-Gillot in Bodenheim: Kühling-Gillot and Battenfeld-Spanier Wines– Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Pictures: Carolin Spanier, Philipp Wittmann and Annette Schiller

Becker Landgraf

Beck – Heidesheimer Hof

J. Bettenheimer

Bischel

Bossert

Braunewell
Favorite: Teufelspfad, Essenheim, Riesling
See also: Frankfurt/Wein Celebrated with the German Wine Queen Nadine Poss and 5 Winemakers: Simone Adams, Weingut Simone Adams, Markus Berres, Weingut C.H. Berres, Stefan Braunewell, Weingut Braunewell, Carmen von Nell-Breuning, Dominikaner Weingut, and Stephan Attmann, Weingut von Winning

VDP: Brüder Dr. Becker

K. and K. Dautermann

Dreissigacker
Favorites: Kirchspiel, Westhofen, Riesling and Morstein, Westhofen, Riesling
See also:
The Wines Chancelor Merkel Served President Obama and Michelle Obama in Berlin (and the Wines she did not Serve), Germany 

Espenhof

Winzerfamilie Flick

Oekonomierat Johann Geil J. Erben

VDP: K.F. Groebe
Favorites: Aulerde Riesling GG and Kirchspiel Riesling GG

Picture: Friedrich Groebe

VDP: Gunderloch
Favorites: Rothenberg Riesling GG, Pettenthal Riesling GG and Hipping Riesling GG
See also: Wine Tasting at Weingut Gunderloch in Nackenheim, with Owners and Winemaker Fritz Hasselbach and Agnes Hasselbach-Usinger – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2014)

Picture: Weingut Gunderloch

VDP: Gutzler

Hofmann
Favorite: Hundertgulden, Appenheim, Riesling
See also: Slate meets Limestone (Schiefer trifft Muschelkalk): Weingut Hofmann in Rheinhessen and Weingut WillemsWillems in the Saar, Germany

Picture: Jürgen Hofmann

Kampf

Keller
Favorites: Hubacker Riesling GG, 2013 Morstein Spätburgunder GG
See also: The 11 Winemakers: Rieslingfeier 2015 in New York City, USA


Knewitz
Favorite: Hundergulden, Appenheim, Riesling

Picture: Tobias Knewitz

VDP: Kruger-Rumpf
Favorite: Scharlachberg Riesling GG
See also: Lunch and Wine Tasting with Georg Rumpf, Weingut Kruger-Rumpf, Nahe Valley – Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2014)

Pictures: Stefan Rumpf, Philipp Wittmann, Annette Schiller and Georg Rumpf

Landgraf
Favorite: Hölle, Saulheim, Riesling

VDP: J. Neus

Pfannebecker

VDP: Rappenhof

Riffel

Sander

Schätzel
Favorites: Hipping, Nierstein, Riesling; Ölberg, Nierstein, Riesling; Pettentahl, Nierstein, Riesling
See also: Tour, Tasting, and Lunch at Weingut Schätzel in Nierstein, Rheinhessen – Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2014)

Picture: Kai Schätzel and Annette Schiller

Seehof

VDP: Schloss Westerhaus

Spiess

VDP: St. Antony

VDP: Staatliche Weinbaudomäne Oppenheim

Thörle
Favorites: Hölle, Saulheim, Riesling and 2013 Hölle, Saulheim, Spätburgunder
See also: Visit: Winzerhof Thörle in Saulheim, Rheinhessen – Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Pictures: Johannes Thörle and Annette Schiller

VDP: Wagner-Stempel
Favorite: Höllberg, Riesling GG

Wechsler
Favorites: Kirchspiel, Westhofen, Riesling; Morstein, Westhofen, Riesling; Benn, Westhofen, Riesling
See also: Winetasting with Katharina Wechsler, Weingut K. Wechsler, Westhofen, Rheinhessen – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2014)

Picture: Katharina Wechsler

Weedenborn
Favorite: Steingrube, Westhofen, Riesling

Picture: Gesine Roll

Weinreich

VDP: Winter

VDP: Wittmann
Favorites: Aulerde, Riesling, GG; Kirchspiel, Riesling, GG; Morstein, Riesling, GG
See also: Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Philipp Wittmann and Eva Clüsserath-Wittmann at Weingut Wittmann in Westhofen – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2014)
See also: The Premium Apple Wines of Andreas Schneider - Obsthof am Steinberg - in Frankfurt am Main, Germany

Pictures: Philipp Wittmann and Andreas Schneider (ultra-premium apple wine producer from Frankfurt)

schiller-wine: Related Postings

Steffen Christmann (Weingut A. Christmann) and Wilhelm Weil (Weingut Robert Weil) Presented the New Wine Classification of the VDP, Germany

The new (VDP) Wine Classification in Germany: Tasting Weingut Robert Weil Wines from Gutswein to Grosse Lage Wine

Wine Caravan from Germany Visiting the US East Coast: Dr. Fischer, Fitz Ritter, Bollig-Lehnert, Schneider, Dr. Thanisch 

Germany’s Grosses Gewächs GG Wines Released (2014 White and 2013 Red) - Notes from the Pre-release Tasting in Wiesbaden, Germany

Wine Tasting at Weingut Kühling-Gillot in Bodenheim: Kühling-Gillot and Battenfeld-Spanier Wines– Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Frankfurt/Wein Celebrated with the German Wine Queen Nadine Poss and 5 Winemakers: Simone Adams, Weingut Simone Adams, Markus Berres, Weingut C.H. Berres, Stefan Braunewell, Weingut Braunewell, Carmen von Nell-Breuning, Dominikaner Weingut, and Stephan Attmann, Weingut von Winning

The Wines Chancelor Merkel Served President Obama and Michelle Obama in Berlin (and the Wines she did not Serve), Germany

Wine Tasting at Weingut Gunderloch in Nackenheim, with Owners and Winemaker Fritz Hasselbach and Agnes Hasselbach-Usinger – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2014)

The 11 Winemakers: Rieslingfeier 2015 in New York City, USA 

Slate meets Limestone (Schiefer trifft Muschelkalk): Weingut Hofmann in Rheinhessen and Weingut WillemsWillems in the Saar, Germany

Lunch and Wine Tasting with Georg Rumpf, Weingut Kruger-Rumpf, Nahe Valley – Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2014)

Tour, Tasting, and Lunch at Weingut Schätzel in Nierstein, Rheinhessen – Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2014)

Visit: Winzerhof Thörle in Saulheim, Rheinhessen – Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Winetasting with Katharina Wechsler, Weingut K. Wechsler, Westhofen, Rheinhessen – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2014)

Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Philipp Wittmann and Eva Clüsserath-Wittmann at Weingut Wittmann in Westhofen – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2014)

See also: The Premium Apple Wines of Andreas Schneider - Obsthof am Steinberg - in Frankfurt am Main, Germany

Lunch and Winetasting at La Table de Olivier in Pouligny Montrachet – Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

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Picture: Annette Schiller with Patrick Leflaive and our Guide

We spent a morning and part of the afternoon at Olivier Leflaive. The visit comprised 3 parts: (1) We started out with an extensive walk through the vineyards of Pouligny Montrachet. (2) This was followed by a visit of the winery. (3) We ended the stop in Pouligny Montrachet with a tasting lunch at La Table de Olivier, the restaurant of Maison Olivier Leflaive.

Patrick Leflaive, the brother of Olivier Leflaive and President of Maison Oliver Leflaive, joined us for lunch.

This posting covers the lunch at La Table de Olivier. Parts (1) and (2) were covered in a separate posting.

See here:
Olivier Leflaive: Vineyard Walk and Cellar Tour, with Patrick Leflaive– Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France  

The Leflaive Family in Pouligny Montrachet

Just after the First World War, Olivier’s grandfather, Joseph Leflaive, was faced with the failure of his steel factory in Saint-Etienne. His investments in Burgundy were all he had left and he decided to enlarge his wine estate. Burgundy had not yet recovered from the effect of the phylloxera epidemic, which meant that vineyards were for sale at a very low price. Joseph Leflaive was able to buy 25 hectares for his domaine.
In 1920, Joseph Leflaive started a program of replantation with better adapted root stock, and progressively started to sell wine under his own label rather than to négociants. It became a family-run operation covering some 35 hectares.

Picture: La Maison d'Olivier Leflaive and La Table d'Olivier

After the death of Joseph Leflaive in 1953, his son, Joseph Régis, the father of Olivier and Patrick Leflaive, was in insurance and along with his brother Vincent, decided to take over the rein of Domaine Leflaive. The estate soon began producing top-flight wines.

In 1973, Domaine Leflaive was given a company structure to avoid splitting it up with subsequent inheritance, with the family members becoming the shareholders. Joseph Régis had 5 children and Vincent Leflaive had 3 children. Joseph Régis and Vincent Leflaive continued to manage the company.

Pictures: Annette and Christian Schiller with Patrick Leflaive

Olivier Leflaive

Oliver Leflaive is one of the 5 children of Joseph Régis. Initially, he pursued a career in TV and radio for 10 years. In 1982, he joined his uncle Vincent Leflaive to co-manage Domaine Leflaive.

In 1984, Olivier Leflaive launched his own company Olivier Leflaive Frères, which we visited, with the help of his uncle Vincent and his brother Patrick. He quickly established his own reputation amongst Burgundy’s finest.

In 1990, Anne-Claude Leflaive replaced her father Vincent Leflaive in the management of Domaine Leflaive.

In 1994, the share holderss of Domaine Leflaive, i.e. the family Leflaive decided to give the management of Domaine Leflaive to Anne-Claude Leflaive. Olivier Leflaive left Domaine Leflaive and focused henceforth on his own company, Olivier Leflaive Frères, which he had already launched 10 years before.

Pictures: Vineyard Walk in Puligny Montrachet

Pictures: In the Cellar of Olivier Leflaive in Puligny Montrachet

See also:
Olivier Leflaive: Vineyard Walk and Cellar Tour, with Patrick Leflaive– Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France  

Maison Olivier Leflaive Frères

Olivier Leflaive founded his own company Olivier Leflaive Frères, which we visited, with the help of his uncle Vincent and his brother Patrick, in In 1984. His brother Patrick invested in the business and became co-owner. His uncle Vincent also invested and acted in an advisory capacity, introducing him to winegrowers, and eventually to Jean-Marc Boillot who became his winemaker from 1984 to 1988.

Together, they brought this haute-couture business to life.

Picture: Lunch at La Table d'Olivier

In 1988, Franck Grux took over as a winemaker and still holds this role today. Franck Grux was a young and talented winemaker who had been working at the Domaine Roulot in Meursault. He rapidly became Olivier’s right-hand man. Over the two past decades, he was able to establish a strong, long-term relationships with the best growers in the region.

Olivier Leflaive Frères is known today as a négociant (a wine buyer and seller) of high quality with a focus on the whites from the famous villages of Puligny, Chassagne and Meursault. Olivier Leflaive is continuously expanding and has acquired several vineyards that allow the Domaine to develop and build up its range of Domaines Wines alongside the négoce business.

Pictures: Annette Schiller with a Group of Sommeliers from Thailand at La Table d'Olivier

In 1997, Olivier Leflaive Frères opened the Table d’Olivier Leflaive, Burgundy’s first table d’hôte enabling.

In 2001, Olivier Leflaive Frères extended its expertise to the Chablis AOC. In the same year, Olivier’s
brother Patrick Leflaive, one of the initial investors, joined the company as President.

As numbers of diners grow, in 2006, Olivier Leflaive decided to open La Maison d’Olivier Leflaive, a 4 star hotel, to allow guests to stay longer in Poulligny Montrachet.

2010, after several long years, Olivier and Patrick received their family legacy in the form of some fabulous terroirs:
– Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru
– Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
– Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Pucelles
– Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatières
– Meursault 1er Cru Blagny Sous le Dos d’Âne

In the same year, Oliver Leflaive retired from Olivier Leflaive Frères.

Pictures: The Menu and the Wines

Lunch and Wine Tasting at La Table de Olivier

From the production facility, we walked back to La Maison d’Olivier Leflaive, where we had lunch cum wine tasting with Patrick Leflaive joining us.

Pictures: Lunch at La Table d'Olivier

Postings on the Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France (Posted and Forthcoming)

Preview: Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015 and 2016)

Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Champagne Jean Josselin in Gyé-sur-Seine: Tour and Tasting with Jean Pierre Josselin - Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

The Wines of Tonnerre, France – Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Domaine Séguinot-Bordet in Maligny, Chablis: Tour and Tasting with Owner and Winemaker Jean-François Bordet – Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Domaine Brocard in Chablis: Lunch, Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Odile Van Der Moere, Responsable de Cave – Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Dinner at Hostellerie Chateau de la Barge in Creches-sur-Saone - Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Domaine Ferret in Fuissé, Poully-Fuissé, Mâconnais: Vineyard Walk, Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Cyril Laumain, Chef de Cave – Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Visit of the Abbey of Cluny and Lunch at Hostellerie d'Heloise in Cluny– Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Domaine Theulot Juillot in Mercurey, Côte Chalonnaise: Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Nathalie and Jean-Claude Theulot – Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Olivier Leflaive: Vineyard Walk and Cellar Tour, with Patrick Leflaive– Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Lunch and Winetasting at La Table de Olivier in Pouligny Montrachet – Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Wine Tasting at Domaine Mestre Père & Fils in Santenay with Jonathan Maestre

Visit: Domaine Bouchard Père & Fils in Beaune

Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Beaune, Bourgogne

Visit: Musée de l’Hospice de Beaune with Karoline Knoth, M.A.

Domaine A-F Gros in Beaune: Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Owner and Winemaker Mathias Parent

Visit: Maison Joseph Drouhin in Beaune

Domaine Faiveley in Nuits-Saint-George: Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Mathilde Nicolas (Brand Ambassador)

Wine Tasting at Domaine du Château de Prémeaux in Nuits Saint Georges with Owner and Winemaker Arnaud Pelletier 

Domaine Armelle et Bernard Rion in Vosne-Romanée: Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Bernard Rion and  Alice Rion

Domaine Guillon & Fils in Gevrey Chambertin: Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Jean-Michel Guillon

Visit: Château du Clos de Vougeot

schiller-wine: Related Postings

4 Wine Tours by ombiasy coming up in 2015: Germany-East, Germany-South. Germany-Nord and Bordeaux

Fall Tours by ombiasy WineTours 2015 - A Very Special Treat: Experience Harvest Time !

Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Top 20 Wine Bars in the USA

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Pictures: Purple Wine Bar in Seattle

The Wine Enthusiast issued a list of the top 20 wine bars in the US:

Asheville, NC | Battery Park Book Exchange & Champagne Bar 

Rifle through stacks of used fiction and history tomes at this bookstore-cum-wine bar inside the Grove Arcade. Order a glass from its broad selection and settle in for a little evening reading.

Atlanta | Ziba’s Bistro

A cozy vibe with chalkboards that boast a well-edited wine list packed with Old and New World gems.

Austin, TX | Winebelly

From Sicilian Nero d’Avola to Texas Hill Country Tempranillo, the wine list at this mellow, antique-filled lair spans the globe and deserves to be explored.

Boston | Spoke Wine Bar

Felisha Foster puts the spotlight on Old World wines from small producers, and her list jibes perfectly with the scrumptious small-plate dishes at this Somerville hideout.

Chicago | Rootstock

Kick back on the patio at this Humboldt Park boîte, where its solid selection of Old and New World wines include ­numerous standouts from Greece and Slovenia.

Dallas | Veritas Wine Room

The wood décor and fireplace make this local favorite feel more like an Irish pub than a modern wine bar. No matter what you decide to drink from the 350 wine choices, don’t miss the Texas-made cheese and meat plates.

Denver | Caveau Wine Bar

A true wine explorer’s mecca, this romantic, unpretentious gem has nearly 50 by-the-glass wines that were picked to help gently push your palate out of its comfort zone.

Houston | Beckrew Wine House

Here, morning espresso makes way for lively evening wine sessions. Sink into an elegant white chair for one of its flights of non-Champagne bubbles. Bonus: Free gourmet pizza.

Kansas City, MO | Ça Va

Bubbles—be it the wine or the Champagne cocktails—are the raisons d’être of this popular bar. And keeping in kind with KC’s rich jazz tradition, it regularly hosts live sets from big names.

Los Angeles | Bar Covell

Wine Director Matthew Kaner thinks wine lists are often impersonal—which is why there aren’t any at this Los Feliz outpost. Instead, he or one of his staffers chats you up, then offers a selection based on your personal preferences.

Miami | Lagniappe

A refuge among the DJ clubs, this New Orleans-style hideaway has live music every night, a tea light-strewn yard and more than 150 wines from small-production wineries around the globe.

New York City | The Ten Bells

Need a "crush" course in natural or biodynamic wine? Settle down under the tin-tiled ceiling at this Lower East Side haunt for an education that is always delicious and never pretentious.

Pismo Beach, CA | Tastes of The Valleys

This well-stocked tasting room and wine shop sits just a few blocks from the beach and pours hundreds (seriously) of Central Coast wines by the glass. The vast selection and wine-smart staff are why the bar is a favorite among local winemakers and industry insiders.

Portland, ME | MJ’s Wine Bar

Take your favorite college-town coffeehouse, but replace the smell of patchouli with a fun wine list that reps far-flung lesser-known regions, like Hungary and the Canary Islands, and you’ve got this chill hangout.

Portland, OR | Southeast Wine Collective

Located in a winery co-op, the bar pours craft wines made by the resident winemakers, who can often be seen hard at work.

Richmond, VA | C’est le Vin

This art gallery/wine bar features live ­music, more than 200 bottles and a solid array of by-the-glass selections, with special attention paid to Virginia wines.

San Francisco | Fig & Thistle

Cop a spot on the bunk-bed couch and peruse the map-based menu that pinpoints where each of its many small-batch California wines was produced.

Scottsdale, AZ | Kazimierz World Wine Bar

Next door to downtown Scottsdale's Cowboy Ciao, Peter Kasperski’s alluring stone-walled jazz lounge has a dizzying menu of 2,000 selections organized by price and wine style.

Seattle | Purple Cafe & Wine Bar

There are several Purple spots, but only the Seattle locale boasts a 5,000-bottle wine tower. It's a mecca of Washington wine with fun flights.

Washington, D.C. | Dickson Wine Bar

This tiny U Street boîte is always crowded with power players, but its extensive list of organic wines—and rib-eye bánh mì—are worth braving the throng of bustling bureaucrats.

More Top Wine Bars in the US

For more top wine bars in the USA, see my "Schiller's Favorites" postings:

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in New York City, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Seattle, USA
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Washington DC, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Charleston, South Carolina, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in San Francisco, USA
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars and Other Places Where You Can Have a Glass of Wine in Healdsburg, California

Schiller’ Favorites

Here is a complete list of Schiller's Favorites:

Europe

Germany

Schiller's Favorite Winemakers in Sachsen (Saxony), Germany
Schiller’s Favorite Winemakers in the Saale-Unstrut Region, Germany
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Taverns in Trier, Germany
Schiller's Favorite (Wine-) Restaurants in Deidesheim in the Pfalz, Germany
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Frankfurt am Main, Germany
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Berlin, Germany
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Frankfurt am Main, 2013, Germany
Schiller's Favorite Apple Wine Taverns in Frankfurt am Main, Germany
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Taverns in Mainz, Germany

France

Schiller’s Favorite Restaurants, Brasseries, Bistros, Cafes and Wine Bars in Paris, France
Schiller's Favorite Seafood Places in Bordeaux City, France
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux City, France
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in St. Emilion, France
Schiller’s Favorite Restaurants, Brasseries, Bistros, Cafes and Wine Bars in Paris, 2012 France
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux (City) (2012), France

UK, Spain, Austria, Hungary

Schiller's Favorite Winebars in London, UK
Schiller’s Favorite Tapas Bars in Logroño in La Rioja, Spain
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in London, 2012, UK
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars and Other Wine Spots in Vienna, Austria
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Budapest, Hungary
Schiller’s Favorite Spots to Drink Wine in Vienna, Austria (2011)

USA

Riesling Crawl in New York City – Or, Where to Buy German Wine in Manhattan: Schiller's Favorite Wine Stores, USA
Schiller's Favorite Oyster Bars and Seafood Places in Seattle, USA  
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in New York City, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Seattle, USA
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Washington DC, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Crab Houses in the Washington DC Region, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in New York City, 2012, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Charleston, South Carolina, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in San Francisco, USA
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars and Other Places Where You Can Have a Glass of Wine in Healdsburg, California

Asia

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Singapore
Schiller s Favorite Winebars in Beijing, 2014, China

Africa

Schiller's Favorite Wines of Madagascar
Schiller’s 12 Favorite Restaurants of Antananarivo, the Capital of Madagascar     

Tour and Tasting at Weingut Wirsching in Iphofen in Franken with General Manager Uwe Matheus – Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

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Pictures: Silvaner Bocksbeutel, Weingut Wirsching

Following very interesting days in 2 German wine regions that are located in the former GDR area, Saale-Unstrut and Sachsen, we moved on to Franken, the wine producing part of Bavaria.

Weingut Wirsching was the first of 3 wineries we visited in Franken: Weingut Wirsching, Weingut Am Stein and Weingut Rudolf Fürst. The latter has a 5/5 grapes in the Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2015. The former have 3/5 grapes.

Weingut Wirsching and Weingut Rudolf Fürst are both represented by the Rudi Wiest Selection in the US, while Weingut Am Stein used to export to the US via Loosen Bros. Imports, but currently is not present in the US market.

At Weingut Wirsching we were received by General Manager Dr. Uwe Matheus. We enjoyed a nice wine tasting with him in the old and famous tasting room of the Wirsching estate, following a tour of the impressive Weingut Wirsching cellar.

Pictures: Weingut Wirsching General Manager Dr. Uwe Matheus Welcoming the ombiasy Group

Franken

Franken, located in the northern part of Bavaria, is boasting a long tradition and some fine terroirs (mostly shell limestone and Keuper, a kind of marl). Its two leading grape varieties are Riesling and Silvaner. Typically, Franken wine comes in the distinctive, dumpily-rounded Franken “Bocksbeutel” wine bottle. The bottle’s unusual shape dates back to at least the 16th century. The Bocksbeutel may only be used for Franken wines. In Germany, it is a sign of excellence, while in the US, many consumers link this kind of bottle shape to lower quality wine.

Pictures: In Würzburg in the Evening

Weingut Wirsching

The Wirsching family has been producing wine since 1630 in the village of Iphofen, a leading wine village in Franken. Today, Weingut Wirsching is one of the largest privately-owned winery in Germany.

In the early 1960's, Hans Wirsching Jr. brought back to Iphofen from Munich his brother Heinrich, who was a graduate business economist there. From then on, these two brothers wrote the great success story of the estate, with Hans Wirsching Jr. focusing on winemaking and Dr. Heinrich Wirsching on all other aspects of the winery. Thanks to their particular dedication to Iphofen's vineyards, Iphofen has developed into one of the leading wine-growing communities in all of Franconia. The 'new style' that Hans Wirsching had given his wines - fresh, reductive, elegant and slim - has become a trademark. The early passing of Hans in 1990 did not change the qualities that make Wirsching wines special.

Today, Dr. Heinrich Wirsching is still in charge of the estate. He is over 80 years of age but looks rather juvenile. While he is still the boss in every-day business, he is actively supported by his daughters Andrea and Lena as well as by management team. Andrea Wirsching, in her fifties, re-joined the family recently to assist her 20 years younger half-sister Lena. They carry on 350 years of family wine making tradition, with the General Manager Dr. Uwe Matheus, who was our host, Wine Maker Werner Probst and Marketing Chef Armin Huth.

Vineyards

Iphöfer Julius-Echter-Berg: Without a doubt, the Iphoefer Julius-Echter-Berg is one of Franconia's prime vineyard sites. Its namesake is the famous Prince Bishop Julius Echter of Mespelbrunn. Hans Wirsching Sr. is considered 'The Father' here, because in the early 1920's it was his idea to name the best vineyard site of Iphofen 'Julius-Echter-Berg'.

This steep slope that faces to the south, is located in a basin, 280m above sea level at its base and 380m above sea level at its height. The unique soil structure and micro-climate influence the location and distinguish it from Riesling sites along the Moselle and Rhine Rivers. The greyish-brown gypsum keuper soil radiates the sun's heat and releases vivid scents and fragrances. The subsoil readily retains moisture which lets the grapes ripen slowly over a long period of time. The wines obtain their intensity and particular flavour and aroma from a sediment layer of green 'reed' sandstone which is unique to Franconia.

Iphöfer Kronsberg: The Iphoefer Kronsberg is one of the top vineyard sites in Franconia. It's so named after the oak woods, sitting enthroned like a fur cap on the steep slopes facing south, above the vineyards. During the Keuper period, gypsum and lime sandstone were deposited here as marine sediments. Thru weathering the Keuper soil, with its high mineral content, was developed. The slope and the soil's excellent water and heat retention properties can be charcterized as 'water and warmth, under a crown of oaks'.

Combining the Silvaner and Riesling grapes, with the Kronsberg site, yields powerful, expressive wines with a striking acidic structure and a distinctive natural earthy character, yet with significant storability. One can taste the very high mineral content, however, because of the high lime content in the soil, the acidity of the wines is deeply softened. Additionally, in the bouquet, one can discern a very clear, yet subtle fruitiness.

Iphöfer Kalb: The Iphoefer Kalb is a steep slope that faces south. On easily warmed Keuper soils grow delicately fruity, elegant wines with fresh lively aromas. The mild climate and the long growing season allows the vines to absorb the many minerals in/from the dark Keuper soil and gives the wines their fruity and full-bodied character.

The vineyard area is 72 hectares. Output amounts to 48,000 cases. Grapes: 38% Silvaner, 18% Riesling, 10% Müller-Thurgau, 8% Weißburgunder (Pinot Blanc), 6% Scheurebe, 7% Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir), 5% Dornfelder and 8% others.

Uwe Matheus: The grapes are harvested by hand and processed as gently and carefully as possible. Here, centuries-old wine traditions blend with modern technology. In doing so, the freshness and liveliness are preserved in the wines as well as their vintage and varietal character in the form of specific aromas and flavour nuances.

Pictures: The Vineyards of Ipphofen

Cellar

75% of the wines are vinified in the Franconian dry style (Fränkisch trocken) which means residual sugar of less than 4 grams/liter. Even fruity sweet Spätlese wines rarely have residual sugar levels exceeding 15 grams/liter. Vinification is "reduktiv" which implies little oxygen contact with the juice. The maturation of the wines occurs mostly in stainless steel tanks.

Pictures: Cellar Tour with Uwe Matheus

Tasting

90% of the output of Weingut Wirsching is sold in Germany and of this 1/3 at Weingut Wirsching. People like to come to Weingut Wirsching, have a nice tasting and then fill up the trunk of their car.

In the US, only Silvaner and Scheurebe is available, no Riesling.

We tasted 6 wines with Uwe Matheus, all Silvaner.

Pictures: Tasting with Uwe Matheus

Silvaner

As the 'centuries-old ancestor' in Franconian Wine Country, Silvaner reflects many Franconian attributes. Experts call it the 'true' Franconian wine. The vines have excellent yield and longevity, but are demanding in terms of site selection. They are stocky in stature, but with irrepressible vitality and energy. In this traditional variety, one tastes, quite strongly, the qualities of the soil. Its medium-sized, juicy grapes deliver a full-bodied, powerful wine with a neutral bouquet and a delicate, mild acidity, which is ideal for dry maturation.

Pictures: Silvaner, Weingut Wirsching

At the Wirsching Estate, the Silvaner is one of the most important grape varieties. In great years, the wine surprises with a playfulness and elegance that is unmatched. Thanks to its unobtrusive nature, it is ideally suited as a companion for many, many foods, both; both, as a simple table wine with a light cold meal or as a noble wine for fine dining. The ideal companion for any menu.

The Wines

2014 Weingut Wirsching Iphöfer Kalb Silvaner VDP.Erste Lage
2013 Weingut Wirsching Iphöfer Kronsberg Silvaner Alte Reben VDP.Erste Lage
2013 Weingut Wirsching Iphöfer Julius-Echter Berg Silvaner VDP.Grosse Lage
2005 Weingut Wirsching Iphöfer Julius-Echter Berg Silvaner Spätlese trocken
2012 Weingut Wirsching Sister Act Riesling trocken
2014 Weingut Wirsching Iphöfer Kronsberg Scheurebe Alte Reben VDP.Erste Lage

Pictures: Scheurebe and Sister Act, Weingut Wirsching

Bye-bye

Thanks Uwe for a great tasting and tour of the impressive Weingut Wirsching cellar.


Postings: Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015) (Published and Forthcoming) 

Preview: Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

The Art Marketer: OMBIASY PR & WINE TOURS - Germany-East

Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Tasting at Weingut Lützkendorf with Uwe Lützkendorf – Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Weingut Pawis (Saale Unstrut): Estate Tour and Wine Tasting with Markus Pawis – Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Weingut Thürkind in Gröst, Saale-Unstrut: Tour, Tasting and Lunch – Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Schiller's Favorite Winemakers in the Saale Unstrut Region, Germany

Weingut Schloss Proschwitz, Prinz zur Lippe, in Zadel, Sachsen: Tour and Tasting with Prinz zur Lippe – Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Dining with Prinz zur Lippe, Owner of Weingut Schloss Proschwitz, at the Lippe’sches Gutshaus - Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Weingut Karl Friedrich Aust in Radebeul, Sachsen: Tour and Lunch with Tasting – Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Visit of Weingut Klaus Zimmerling: The Wines of Klaus Zimmerling and the Art of his Wife Malgorzata Chodakoska - Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Schiller's Favorite Winemakers in Sachsen (Saxony), Germany

Visit and Tasting at Weingut Wirsching in Iphofen, Franken

Visit and Tasting at Weingut Am Stein Ludwig Knoll in Würzburg, Franken

Cellar Tour and Tasting with Star Winemaker Paul Fürst at Weingut Fürst in Franken

Würzburg and its 3 Historic Wine Taverns: Juliusspital, Bürgerspital and Staatlicher Hofkeller

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Graf Neipperg in Schwaigern, Württemberg

Tasting at Weingut Dautel in Württemberg with Christian Dautel

Wine Pairing Dinner at Restaurant Friedrich von Schiller in Bietigheim-Bissingen in Württemberg

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Herzog von Württemberg at Schloss Monrepos with Owner F.R.H. Carl Duke of Württemberg

Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting with Rainer Schnaitmann at Weingut Rainer Schnaitmann in Fellbach, Württemberg

Wine Tasting at Weingut Simon-Bürkle in Zwingenberg, Hessische Bergstrasse


How Does the Negociant System in Bordeaux Work? Tour and Tasting at Millésima - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

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Picture: At Millésima in Bordeaux City

Led by Annette Schiller, the Bordeaux Tour 2015 by ombiasy WineTours took place from September 15 to 24, 2015. The group comprised 8 wine lovers from the United States, including Annette and Christian Schiller. I already provided an overview of the tour. See the list of postings at the end of the article. This posting focuses on our first event: Visit and Tasting at Millésima.

See: Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Following a welcome coffee and introduction to the Bordeaux wine region at Hotel La Tour Intendance in the afternoon of September 15, 2015, we took a short bus ride to our first event: Tour and Tasting at Millésima in Bordeaux City. At the storage facility of Millésima at the outskirts of Bordeaux City, where over two million bottles of top Bordeaux wines are stored and waiting to be shipped, we were introduced to the system how the top producers of premium Bordeaux wines sell their wine to their customers all over the world and had our first tasting, a wine and cheese pairing.

Manuela Picot was our host.

Picture: At Millésima in Bordeaux City

Place de Bordeaux and En Primeur

The way the top producers of Bordeaux sell their wines to their customers all around the world differs strikingly from the way their colleagues in other countries or even in Bordeaux do.

Wine maker Doug Fabbioli from Fabbioli Cellars in Virginia, for example, sells the wine he produces during the course of the year to the consumers who show up at his winery and by the wine directly from him. Wine maker Ernst Loosen from Dr. Loosen in the Mosel Valley in Germany, whose wines are available all over the world, works, I assume, with wholesalers in Germany as well as with importers from all over the world, who buy the wine from him during the course of the year. The wines of both Doug Fabbioli and Ernst Loosen are sold after the wines have been bottled and are ready to be consumed.

Pictures: At Millésima in Bordeaux City

The way the system works for the premium Bordeaux wines is different. And it is unique in the world. The wines are sold well before they are bottled (en primeur system) and the wines are sold and distributed to the world through negociants (Place de Bordeaux).

Buying Bordeaux wines en primeur is like buying commodity futures, with cash laid down now for later delivery of something that does not yet exist as a finished product. The futures reach the consumer through a series of phases.

Today, there are 400 négociants on the Place de Bordeaux, and most labels are purchased by an average of 40. Each chateau works with a different number of negociants. Some properties work with 5 different negociants, others work with over 100.

I provided an overview of the system here: Bordeaux - En Primeur, Negociants, Courtiers, the Quai de Chartons and the Place de Bordeaux– A Short Introduction. Go there for more information.

Pictures: At Millésima in Bordeaux City

Wine and Cheese Tasting

The stroll through the vast storage rooms felt like being a kid in a candy store. The visit ended with a wine and cheese tasting in the storage rooms.

Pictures: Tasting at Millésima in Bordeaux City

Chateau Olivier 2012 Graves Pessac Leognan, Grand Cru Classe, paired with Chevre


Fugue de Nenin 2004, Pomerol, paired with Gouda


Chateau La Fleur Peyrabon 2004 Pauillac Cru Bourgeois, paired with Sheep Cheese


Chateau de Liot 1997 Sauternes, paired with Roquefort


Postings on the Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France (Posted and Forthcoming)

4 Wine Tours by ombiasy coming up in 2015: Germany-East, Germany-South. Germany-Nord and Bordeaux

Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Bordeaux Wine Tour 2013 by ombiasy

Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Bordeaux Wines and their Classifications: The Basics

Bordeaux - En Primeur, Negociants, Courtiers, the Quai de Chartons and the Place de Bordeaux– A Short Introduction

How Does the Negociant System in Bordeaux Work? Tour and Tasting at Millésima - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Tour, Tasting and Wine Dinner at Domaine de Chevalier, Graves,with Director Adjoint Rémi Edange

Saint Emilion Wines and their Classification, Bordeaux, France

Tour and Tasting at Château Angélus, Saint-Emilion, Premier Grand Cru Classé A.

Tour and Wine Lunch at Château Beauséjour, Puisseguin Saint-Emilion, with Owner and Winemaker Gérard Dupuy

Tour and Tasting at Château Tertre-Rôteboeuf, Saint-Emilion, with Owner and Winemaker François Mitjavile

Tour and tasting at Château de Figeac, Saint-Emilion, Premier Grand Cru Classé.

Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Saint-Emilion

Tour and Wine Lunch at Château Le Bon Pasteur, Pomerol, with Dany Rolland

The Wine Empire of the von Neipperg Family in France, Bulgaria and Germany 

Tour and Wine Dinner at Château Canon La Gaffelière, Saint-Emilion, Premier Grand Cru Classé

Tour and Tasting at Château de Fargues, Sauternes, with Prince Eudes d’Orléans

Wine Lunch at Restaurant Château de la Tour in Cadillac and Tour at Château Du Cros, Loupiac, with Catherine Boyer, Proprietor of Château Du Cros

Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux City

Schiller's Favorite Seafood Places in Bordeaux City

Tour and Tasting at Château Smith-Haut-Lafitte, Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé.

Lunch at the 2 Michelin Starred Restaurant La Grande Vigne

Tour of the Earl Ostrea Chanca Oyster Farm and Oyster Tasting in Grand-Piquey, with Oyster Farmer Ralph Doerfler

What is a Bordeaux Cru Bourgeois? France

Tour and Wine Dinner at Château Le Reysse, Vignobles Paeffgen, Médoc, in Bégadan, with Stefan Paeffgen

Château Léoville-Poyferré, Chateau Le Crock, Didier Cuvelier in Bordeaux and the Cuvelier Los Andes Wines in Argentina

Tour and Tasting at Château Léoville Poyferré, Saint-Julien, 2ième Grand Cru Classé, with Didier Cuvelier

Tour and Wine Lunch at Château Pichon-Longueville-Baron, Pauillac, 2ième Grand Cru Classé

The 5 Premiers Grands Crus Chateaux en 1855 of Bordeaux, France

Tour and Tasting at Château Mouton-Rothschild, Pauillac, 1ière Grand Cru Classé.

How a Barrel is Made: Visit of the Cooperage Berger & Fils in Vertheuil

Lunch at Restaurant Le Peyrat in Saint-Estèphe with the Grape Pickers of Château Sociando Mallet

Tour and Tasting at Château Lafon-Rochet, Saint-Estèphe, 4ième Grand Cru Classé, with Owner Basile Tesseron

Tour and Tasting at Château Rauzan-Ségla, Margaux, 2ième Grand Cru Classé

Tourt and tasting at Château Palmer, Margaux, 3ième Grand Cru Classé

Tour and Wine Dinner at Château Haut-Bailly, Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé, with Diana Paulin














The Rheingau and its Terroirs: Tasting with Rheingau’s Elite Winemakers, Germany

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Picture: Daniel Deckers from the Frankfurt Allgemeine Zeitung, Hans Schultz, Professor at Geisenheim University, Wilhelm Weil, Owner of Weingut Robert Weil in Kiedrich, and Dirk Würtz, Winemaker at Weingut Balthasar Ress and one of Germany’s Leading Social Media (Wine) Personallities

There was no discussion about this question: Are the first 12 months in the vineyard or is the following period in the wine cellar the determining factor for the quality of a wine? All agreed: The first 12 months in the vineyard are key to the quality of a wine.

In Germany right now, terroir is the term that excites winemakers and drinkers and not Öchsle, the sugar level in the grape at harvest. Germany is moving to a terroir based wine classification, following the Bourgogne.

See here:
teffen Christmann (Weingut A. Christmann) and Wilhelm Weil (Weingut Robert Weil) Presented the New Wine Classification of the VDP, Germany
The new (VDP) Wine Classification in Germany: Tasting Weingut Robert Weil Wines from Gutswein to Grosse Lage Wine 

With the objective to shed some light on the initial periode of making wine, and more particularly, on the terroir of the Rheingau, 20 Rheingau elite winemakers organized a tasting of premium dry wines (all VDP.Grosse Lage GG wines), which focused on the various vineyard sites of the Rheingau. Note that only about half of the VDP Rheingau membership joined the tasting.

Pictures: Rheingau and its Terroirs, with Wilhelm Weil

The event (Wir gehen in die Erde und der Sache auf den Grund. VDP.Grosse Lagen. Der Rheingau und seine prägenden Terroirs – We dig into the earth and go the bottom of it. VDP.Grosse Lagen. The Rheingau and its terroirs) took place at Weingut Robert Weil at the eve of the pre-release tasting of the Grosses Gewächs wines in Wiesbaden in late August 2015. Accordingly, the elite winemakers of the Rheingau invited journalists, wine bloggers, sommeliers, wine retailers for an impressive vertical tasting of 20 ultra-premium Rheingau Rieslings. The winemakers were also present and participated in the tasting.

Pictures: The Event

The Rheingau

It is remarkable: For its entire length of nearly 560 miles, the Rhine flows north with one exception – a 28-mile stretch where the river changes its course. Here, it flows to the west, thereby enabling both the river and the vineyards facing it to bask in the warmth of the sun all day long. This is the Rheingau, one of the medium-size German wine regions. It is a quietly beautiful region, rich in tradition. Queen Victoria's enthusiasm for Hochheim's wines contributed to their popularity in England, where they, and ultimately, Rhine wines in general, were referred to as Hock.

The third President of the USA - and notable bon viveur - Thomas Jefferson visited the Rheingau in 1788 and wrote that the wine of the "Abbaye of Johnsberg is the best made on the Rhine without comparison … That of the year 1775 is the best." He also referred to the Rheingau’s Riesling as the "small and delicate Rhysslin which grows only from Hochheim to Rudesheim". Impressed by the quality of the Rheingau Riesling wines, he bought 100 grapevines to take back to his estate in Virginia.

Picture: The Rheingau

Although the Rheingau is one of Germany’s smaller wine-growing regions, its 3,100 ha (7,660 acres) of vineyards are vastly diverse in their geological makeup. The soil varies from stony slate at the western part near the villages of Assmannshausen and Rüdesheim to loess, sand and marl in the lower central villages of Geisenheim, Johannisberg, Winkel, Oestrich and Hattenheim. Soil reverts to stony phyllite in the higher central and eastern villages of Hallgarten, Kiedrich and Hochheim. Generally, wines from the lower slopes where the soil is heavier—sandy loam and loess—produce fuller wines, while at the higher slopes where it is more stony and slatey, the wines reflect more minerality, elegance and concentration.

The Rheingau enjoys a distinctly continental climate with cold winters and warm, but not hot, summers. The Rheingau is dominated by Riesling, accounting for 4/5 of the vineyard area. Pinot Noir accounts for 1/10 and is concentrated around Assmannshausen.

The Tasting: We dig into the Earth and go the Bottom of it. VDP.Grosse Lagen. The Rheingau and its Terroirs

The tasting was conducted by 4 wine personalities: Wilhelm Weil, owner of Weingut Robert Weil in Kiedrich; Dirk Würtz, Winemaker at Weingut Balthasar Ress and one of Germany’s leading wine bloggers; Hans Schultz, Professor at Geisenheim University; and Daniel Deckers from the Frankfurt Allgemeine Zeitung, who has written a number of wine historic books.

Pictures: Tasting

The tasting started in the eastern part of the Rheingau, with 4 VDP.Grosse Lage GG Rieslings from the Hochheim Hölle, different vintages, all Weingut Künstler, and ended in the eastern part of the Rheingau with 4 VDP.Grosse Lage GG Rieslings from Rüdesheim Schlossberg, all from 2012, from 4 different winemakers: Kesseler, Leitz, Ress and Wegeler. All in all, we had 20 flights with 4 wines each from the top vineyards of the Rheingau.


For all wines, the tasting took place in 3 steps. Daniel Deckers would begin by talking about the vineyard from an historical perspective, Hans Schultz would then focus on the terroir of the vineyard and Wilhelm Weil and Dirk Würtz would initiate the tasting, in which then everyone could participate, notably the winemakers that were present.

Picture: The Wines

Here are the 20 vineyards and winemakers:

Hochheim Hölle Weingut Künstler
Walluf Walkenberg Weingut Toni Jost
Martinsthal Langenberg Weingut Diefenhardt
Kiedrich Gräfenberg Weingut Weil
Erbach Hohenrein Weingut Knyphausen Weingut Jakob Jung
Erbach Siegelsberg Weingut Knyphausen Weingut Jakob Jung
Erbach Marcobrunn Weingut von Oetinger
Hallgarten Jungfer Weingut Prinz
Hallgarten Schönhell Wein- und Sektgut Barth
Östrich Lenchen and Rosengarten Weingut Spreitzer
Östrich Doosberg Wein- und Sektgut Schönleber Weingut Kühn
Mittelheim St. Nikolaus Wein- und Sektgut Schönleber Weingut Kühn
Schloss Vollrads Schlossberg Weingut Schloss Vollrads
Winkel Jesuitegarten Weingut Allendorf
Johannisberg Schloss Johannisberg Weingut Schloss Johannisberg
Johannisberg Hölle Weingut Johannishof Johannes Eser
Geisenheim Rothenberg Weingut Geheimrat Wegeler
Rüdesheim Berg Rottland Weingut Johannishof Weingut Leitz Weingut von Mumm Weingut Balthasar Ress
Rüdesheim Berg Roseneck Weingut Leitz, Weingut August Kesseler
Rüdesheim Berg Schlossberg Weingut August Kesseler, Weingut Leitz, Weingut Balthasar Ress, Weingut Geheimrat Wegeler

Discussion

It was a very lively tasting.

As mentioned earlier, all agreed: The quality of a wine is determined in the vineyard and not in the cellar.

Controversial, however, was the role of the winemaker. Should the producer be only a “servant” in helping the terroir to express itself in the wine (the position of Wilhelm Weil, Weingut Robert Weil) or should the producers be more aggressive and be an “amplifier” or perhaps be an “interpreter” of the vineyard (the position of Peter Jakob Kühn, Weingut Kühn)? Does the vineyard have a soft voice only and you need the winemaker as an “amplifier” so we can hear what the terroir wants to tell us? Or does the vineyard have a strong voice and the best what the winemaker can do is to move to the back and let the terroir speak. And what is terroir really? Just the objective factors like soil type, sun exposure, steepness of the slope etc. or is the winemaker part of the terroir?

Picture: Annette Schiller, ombiasy PR and WineTours, and Paul Truszkowski, Wine in Black

Picture: Guiseppe Lauria, Gault Millau Deutschland WeinGuide

Picture: Michel Bettane, Leading French Wine Critic, Joel Payne, Gault Millau Deutschland Weinguide, and Fred Prinz, Weingut Prinz

Picture: Madeleine Jakits, Der Feinschmecker, and Ulrich Sauter, Falstaff Deutschland

Picture: Sascha Speicher, Meininger Verlag

Picture: Peter Seyffardt, Diefenhard'sches Weingut and Cecilia Jost, Weingut Toni Jost

Picture: Ulrich Allendorf, Weingut Fritz Allendorf, and Stephan Reinhard, Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

Picture: Caro Maurer, MW

Caro Maurer, MW, defined terroir as the “homeland” (“Heimat”) of the wine, including the winemaker. “I cannot taste the vineyard” she said. Winemaker Peter Seyffardt referred to a research project of the Weinbauverband Rheingau, which has established a link between specific soil types and aromas in the wine.

Supporting the position of Caro Maurer, winemaker Peter Jakob Kühn said “The man is part of the terroir”. Does spontaneous fermentation (in the cellar) reinforce the terroir character of a wine or conceal it. Very important also: What is the role of remaining sweetness in the wine? Can fruity-sweet and noble-sweet wines have a terroir character? Overwhelmingly the answer was that sweetness in the wine conceals the terroir character of a wine.

Pictures: Slides of Hans Schultz (Soil, Sun, Water) and Daniel Deckers (History)

Hans Schultz reminded us that there are 7 different soil types in the Rheingau. Also, the planting density has an impact on the root formation and thus on the minerality of the wine. The color of the soil impacts the temperature above the ground. The ability to handle rain water also differs from vineyard to vineyard; some are better for wet vintages, when fast water drainage is preferred and others are better for dry vintages, when it is import to keep the small quantity of water that there is in the vineyard. Finally, against the background of climate change, terroir is not a static but a dynamic concept. What is an excellent vineyard now might become a difficult vineyard in the next 50 years.

Thanks

Thanks for a most entertaining and educational event to the 20 elite wine producers of the Rheingau, who organized the tasting.


schiller-wine: Related Postings

4 Wine Tours by ombiasy coming up in 2015: Germany-East, Germany-South. Germany-Nord and Bordeaux

Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014

Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014

Steffen Christmann (Weingut A. Christmann) and Wilhelm Weil (Weingut Robert Weil) Presented the New Wine Classification of the VDP, Germany

The new (VDP) Wine Classification in Germany: Tasting Weingut Robert Weil Wines from Gutswein to Grosse Lage Wine

Germany’s Grosses Gewächs GG Wines Released (2014 White and 2013 Red) - Notes from the Pre-release Tasting in Wiesbaden, Germany

Extraordinary Views of the Rheingau Vineyards - A Spectecular Helicopter Flight over the Rheingau with Rheingau Winemakers, Germany

Weingut Robert Weil Goes Facebook, Germany

Christian G.E. Schiller's Review of the Book: Ralf Frenzel (ed.) - Riesling, Robert Weil. Tre Torri, Wiesbaden, Germany, 2013, in: Journal of Wine Economics, Volume 9, 2014, No. 1, Cambridge University Press

German Riesling and International Grape Varieties – Top Wine Makers Wilhelm Weil and Markus Schneider at Kai Buhrfeindt’s Grand Cru in Frankfurt am Main, Germany

The 2nd International Riesling Symposium in the Rheingau, Germany





Tour, Tasting (and Lunch) with Robert Schätzle, Owner and Winemaker, Weingut Schloss Neuweier in Baden – Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2015)

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Picture: In the Cellar with Robert Schätzle, Weingut Schloss Neuweier

The first stop of the Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours, which took place from August 30 – September 5, 2015, was at Schloss Neuweier in the small village of Neuweier in Baden, close to the spa-town Baden Baden. We had a wine luncheon at the 1-star Michelin Restaurant of Chef Armin Röttele with Robert Schätzle, Owner and Winemaker of Weingut Schloss Neuweier. Before the luncheon, Robert showed us around in the vineyards and the cellar and poured his Vintage 2014 releases for us. This posting focusses on the initial part of the visit, i.e. the vineyard and cellar tour and the wine tasting with Robert. A second posting focusses on the luncheon at Röttele's Restaurant.

Schloss Neuweier

(1) Weingut Schloss Neuweier is part of the wonderfully restored, historic castle Schloss Neuweier, where wine has been made for centuries.

(2) Schloss Neuweier also includes a top notch restaurant, where we had lunch during our visit. The restaurant is in the first floor of the castle. It is owned and run by Chef Armin Roettle and his wife and since 2006 in the 1 star Michelin category.

Pictures: Robert Schätzle Welcoming the Group

(3) Weingut Schloss Neuweier focuses on Riesling wines, which are outstanding. You would expect that in the Mosel or the Rheingau region, but not in Baden. Reflecting the special soil of the vineyards surrounding the castle and the special micro-climate there as well as a long-standing Riesling tradition and passion, Weingut Schloss Neuweier produces world class Rieslings.

(4) The export share of Weingut Schloss Neuweier is negligible, which is typical for the Baden region. But this may change for Weingut Schloss Neuweier in the future and was not like this in the past. Its Mauerwein (Wall wine – from a terraced vineyard on the hill behind the castle) was one of Queen Victoria’s favorites. It had won an award at the International Exhibition of Philadelphia in 1876 and was on the airship Graf Zeppelin’s maiden flight.

(5) Until recently, the driving force behind Schloss Neuweier, including Weingut Schloss Neuweier, was Gisela Joos. She and her husband, a well-known architect from Frankfurt am Main, took over the castle, including the winery, in 1992 and invested around Euro 50 million in the castle, including the winery. What you see today is essentially due to their efforts and money. In 1999, Weingut Neuweier was admitted to the prestigious VDP association, when Gisela Joos was in charge.

(6) Today, the “Schlossherr” (owner) of Schloss Neuweier and the winemaker at Weingut Schloss Neuweier is Robert Schaetzle. His family acquired the estate in 2012. The senior management of the winery of course changed with Robert taking over. The already high quality level of the wines was definitely maintained if not increased by Robert Schaetzle. The Joos family is still living in the castle, but on a lease basis. Also, the lease of the 1 star restaurant was not affected by the change in ownership.

Picture: Schloss Neuweier

History

When we arrived, Robert suggested to walk over to the vineyards first. While walking there, he introduced us to the rich history of Schloss Neuweier.

The castle belongs to the few historic buildings from the 12th century that still exist. Die Ritter von Bach were the first who started planting vines and producing wine. All subsequent owners showed interested in winemaking.

Its current shape took the castle, when it was owned by Philipp Kämmerer von Worms, called von Dalberg. During 1548 to 1549, this gentleman created the castle as you can see it today. To remind everyone of his creation he put in the entry portal: Zeyt bryngt Rosen – Time brings Roses.

In 1615, the castle was passed onto the second daughter of Philipp von Dalberg, whose husband was Wolf von Eltz and Knebel von Katzenellenbogen. Katzenellenbogen was a high ranking knight who fought under the rule of the Archbishop of Mainz. He also was an important person in terms of winemaking at Weingut Schloss Neuweier. He brought his knowledge from the Franken area, the Bocksbeutel bottles and the Niersteiner and the Laubenheimer grape varities, which replaced the traditional Elblinger and Ortlieber.

Pictures: Robert Schätzle also Produces Premium Sekts

During the 19th century the castle changed its owners quiet frequently. From 1869, the Rößler family from Baden-Baden became the owner of the castle. The Rößler family is responsible for the Mauerberg vineyard gaining international recognition.

The Joos family bought the estate including all the buildings and the vineyard in 1992. With great enthusiasm and financial investments they brought the castle and all the attached buildings back to the full bloom, which you can still admire today. The renovations were completed in 2009.

In 2012, the estate was sold to the family of Robert Schaetzle; they come from a traditional vintners background in the Kaiserstuhl area near Freiburg.

The Vineyards

The heart of the vineyard area (15 hectares) of Weingut Schloss Neuweier are two very steep monopoly sites: Schlossberg and Goldenes Loch.

Robert Schaetzle: Schlossberg - This is a monopoly site of 3 hectares of south-facing slopes with up to 55°incline, entirely Riesling. The soil is very special, made up of ground granite, schist, shale and slate. Due to being close to an extinct volcano you also find quartz crystals on the surface. The climate is defined by being on the lower slopes of the Black Forrest Mountains and close to the Rhine plateau and in combination with the soil is ideal growing grounds for Riesling. The Riesling grown here gets a lot of sun during the day and at night the release of the heat that was accumulated during the day in the soil.

Pictures: In the Vineyard with Robert Schätzle

Goldenes Loch - Another monopoly site of 1 hectare south-west facing cauldron between the Schlossberg and the Mauerberg. The name was established because of the foliage glowing golden in the autumn sun due to the concave mirror effect caused by the cauldron, catching the last rays of the day. The extreme incline of 60° or more was the main reason it was left alone but in 1993 the land was reclaimed by using small diagonal terraces. The grapes grown here produce exquisite Riesling wines.

Mauerberg: This is a south facing site. Historically, 60% of the Mauerberg was terraced, with each terrace large enough for one or two vines. The man-high natural stone walls contribute to the micro climate for the vines by keeping the warmth during the day as well as being dried be the wind from the Black Forest.

Heiligenstein: The name seems to originate from the Celtic culture stating a magical powerful place, which it is still today. The foundation is full of granite being enjoyed by our young Pinot Noir vines. Here is where we get our very clean, clear classical red wines from.

Wine Cellar

After the vineyard tour, we visited the wine cellar of Weingut Schloss Neuweier.

Pictures: In the Cellar with Robert Schätzle

Robert Schätzle

Robert Schätzle is a very interesting and charming fellow, with curly, almost Afro-style hair and a strong regional southern Baden accent. He lives at the castle with his French wife and one son, if I remember correctly.

Robert did not appeared out of nowhere. He has put in time at serious wineries over the years – at Franz Keller and Dr. Heger in Baden, across the Rhine in Alsace with Zind-Humbrecht and Marc Kreydenweiss, and in Bordeaux at La Tour de By. Before turning to wine, Robert was in academia. He studied at Université Bordeaux Segalen in France.

Weingut Schloss Neuweier

Vineyard area (hectare): 18 ha
Varietal in %: 88 % Riesling 8 % Spätburgunder 3 % Weißburgunder 1 % Gewürztraminer
Output per year: 98.000 Flaschen

Wine Tasting

We then walked over to Röttele's Restaurant im Schlossweier for a wine tasting, followed by a spectacular wine lunch. I will report about the luncheon in a separate posting. Robert poured the following wines, all Vintage 2014, and all Erste Lage or Grosse Lage (premier cru or grand cru) wines before the lunch.

Pictures: Wine Tasting with Robert Schätzle

2014 Weingut Schloss Neuweier, Neuweierer Mauerberg Riesling trocken VDP.Erste Lage
2014 Weingut Schloss Neuweier, Neuweierer Schlossberg Riesling trocken VDP.Erste Lage
2014 Weingut Schloss Neuweier, Umweger Stich den Buben Riesling trocken VDP.Erste Lage
2014 Weingut Schloss Neuweier, Goldenes Loch GG VDP.Grosse Lage
2014 Weingut Schloss Neuweier, Mauerwein Riesling GG VDP.Grosse Lage

Lunch

Following the tasting, we had lunch with more of Robert's wines and the outstanding food of 1 star Michelin Chef Armin Röttele. See following posting.

Pictures: Wine Lunch at Röttele's Restaurant

Postings on the Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015) (Posted and Forthcoming)

4 Wine Tours by ombiasy coming up in 2015: Germany-East, Germany-South. Germany-Nord and Bordeaux

Fall Tours by ombiasy WineTours 2015 - A Very Special Treat: Experience Harvest Time !

Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Tour, Tasting (and Lunch) with Robert Schätzle, Owner and Winemaker, Weingut Schloss Neuweier in Baden – Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2015)

Wine Pairing Lunch at Röttele’s 1 Restaurant (1 Star Michelin) at Schloss Neuweier, with Owner and Winemaker Robert Schätzle, Weingut Schloss Neuweier

Tour and Tasting at Weingut Salwey (VDP) in Baden with Benno Salwey

Tour and Tasting at Weingut Franz Keller (VDP) in Oberbergen, Kaiserstuhl, Baden

Wine Paring Lunch at Restaurant Schwarzer Adler (1 Star Michelin) in Oberbergen, Kaiserstuhl, Baden

Schiller's Favorite Wine Taverns of Freiburg

Tour and Tasting at Weingut Bernhard Huber (VDP) in Baden, with Yquem Viehauser

Tour and Tasting at Weingut Dr. Heger (VDP) in Baden.

Tour and Tasting at Maison Léon Beyer in Eguisheim, Alsace, France, with Marc Beyer

Tour and Tasting at Domaine Weinbach in Kaysersberg, Alsace, with Catharine Faller

Wine Pairing Lunch at Wine Tavern Jülg, Weingut Jülg, in Schweigen, with Johannes Jülg

Tasting at Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz (VDP) in Siebeldingen, Pfalz

Schiller's Favorite Wine Taverns in Deidesheim

Tour and Tasting at Weingut Müller-Catoir in Neustadt-Haardt, Pfalz

Tour and Tasting at Weingut A. Christmann (VDP) in Gimmeldingen, Pfalz, with Steffen Christmann

Tour and Tasting at Weingut von Winning (VDP) in Deidesheim, Pfalz

Tour and Tsting at Weingut Josef Biffar in Deidesheim, with Owner and Winemaker Fumiko Tokuoka

Wine Pairing Dinner at Restaurant FUMI at Weingut Josef Biffar in Deidesheim, with Owner and Winemaker Fumiko Tokuoka

Tour and Tasting at Weingut Markus Schneider in Ellerstadt, Pfalz, with Markus Schneider

Tour and Tasting at Weingut Koehler-Ruprecht in Kallstadt, Pfalz, with Franziska Schmitt

Tasting at Weingut Dreissigacker in Bechtheim, Rheinhessen, with Ute Dreissigacker

Tour and Wine Pairing Lunch at Weingut Eva Vollmer in Mainz-Ebersheim, Rheinhessen, with Eva Vollmer
 

The 251 Crus Bourgeois du Médoc of the 2013 Vintage Announced, France

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Picture: Wine Dinner at Chateau Lassus, a Crus Bourgeois du Medoc, during the Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015) with Owner and Winemaker Stefan Paeffgen and his Wife Heike. See: Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

On September 22, 2015, the Alliance des Crus Bourgeois du Medoc announced that 251 chateaux had made it into the official selection for the 2013 vintage. This vintage is known as being difficult and heterogeneous.

Around 20 million bottles of wine are expected to carry the Cru Bourgeois label, accounting for approximately 25% of the Medoc's production. Most estates selected are AOC Medoc and Haut-Medoc properties, but there are also several properties from Pauillac, Margaux and St Estephe, as well as Listrac-Medoc and Moulis.

The full list of the 2013 Official Selection of the Crus Bourgeois du Médoc is available here.

For earlier selections, see:
The 267 Crus Bourgeois du Médoc of the 2012 Vintage Announced, France
The 256 Crus Bourgeois du Médoc of the 2011 Vintage Announced, France  
The 260 Crus Bourgeois du Médoc of the 2010 Vintage, France

The Cru Bourgeois Classification of 1932

From 1932 to the end of the 1900s, the Cru Bourgeois du Medoc system was a classification system set in stone. The first Cru Bourgeois list was drawn up by the Bordeaux Chamber of Commerce and Chamber of Agriculture in 1932, selecting 444 estates from the Medoc for the classification. These were wines that were not included in the 1855 Classification of Crus Classes, but still of high quality.

Picture: Annette Schiller, ombiasy PR and WineTours, with a 2012 Chateau Le Crock, Cru Bourgeois, and a 2012 Chateau Leoville Poyferre, a Classified Growth, both owned by the Cuvelier Family. In the (Annulled) 2003 Classification, Chateau Le Crock was a Cru Bourgeois Superieur

Cru Bourgeois du Médoc Today: A Label Awarded Annually

Today, the Cru Bourgeois du Medoc is a wine label that is awarded annually, on the basis of an assessment of both production methods and the wine. Production methods are periodically inspected and the wines are submitted to an independent panel for annual tasting. Any property in the Médoc may apply.

The first vintage that came under the current system, is the 2008 vintage, announced in 2010.

Note that some very highly regarded wines outside the 1855 classification such as Château Gloria and Château Sociando-Mallet do not submit their wines for the Cru Bourgeois du Medoc classification. Thus, there is a sizable number of top producers in the Medoc today that are neither in the 1855 classification nor in the Cru Bourgeois du Medoc classification.

Picture: Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Wine Dinner at Chateau Lassus, a Crus Bourgeois du Medoc, during the Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015) with Owner and Winemaker Stefan Paeffgen and his Wife Hike. Vignobles Paeffgen comprises 4 chateaux: Le Reysse, Lassus (Crus Bourgeois du Medoc), Clos du Moulin (Cru Bourgeoi du Medoc) and Moulin de Lestagne.

See:
Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France
A German Wine Maker in the Medoc: Dinner with Stefan Paeffgen at Château Le Reysse, France

The Cru Bourgeois Classification of 2003 (Annulled)

In between the current annual classification system and the 1932 classification system set in stone, there was a new classification introduced in 2003 that was subject to a lot of controversy and later annulled. Of the 490 châteaux that applied to be included in the classification of 2003, only 247 were included, a significant contraction of the original listing made in 1932 (444 estates).

The 2003 Cru Bourgeois classification classified the 247 properties in three tiers: Exceptionnel (9 properties), Supérieurs (87 properties) and straight Bourgeois (151 properties).

In February 2007, the 2003 was annulled. At this point, the 1932 classification was briefly reinstated, with its single tier and 444 estates.

The Future: A New Classification System

Recently, the members of the Alliance des Crus Bourgeois du Médoc voted overwhelmingly in favor of the creation of a classification system for their wines. The move was approved by 75% of members in a secret ballot with a provisional timetable setting a date of 2020 for the introduction of the system.

From 2020, with the 2018 vintage, crus bourgeois will again become a classification. Frédérique de Lamothe, director of the Alliance des Crus Bourgeois du Médoc, said “It will last for five years and be in two tiers but the details are not yet defined. The names of the tiers have not been decided. We may keep an external body to control impartiality, but these details have not been decided either.”

schiller-wine: Related Posting 

Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

What is a Bordeaux Cru Bourgeois? France

Château Léoville-Poyferré, Chateau Le Crock, Didier Cuvelier in Bordeaux and the Cuvelier Los Andes Wines in Argentina

A German Wine Maker in the Medoc: Dinner with Stefan Paeffgen at Château Le Reysse, France 

The 260 Crus Bourgeois du Médoc of the 2010 Vintage, France

The 256 Crus Bourgeois du Médoc of the 2011 Vintage Announced, France

The 267 Crus Bourgeois du Médoc of the 2012 Vintage Announced, France

Best Crus Bourgeois du Médoc (2011) - Decanter's 58 Favorites, Bordeaux 

Tour and Tasting at Weingut Baron Knyphausen in Erbach, Rheingau - Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

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Picture: Tour and Tasting at Weingut Baron Knyphausen in Erbach, Rheingau - Gerko Freiherr zu Knyphausen Pouring

The Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (organized by Annette Schiller) took place from September 6 – 12, 2015. The group was small - there were 7 of us, including Annette and Christian Schiller. We visited a total of 14 wineries in 5 different wine regions: Rheingau, Mittelrhein, Ahr, Mosel and Nahe.

I already provided a summary of the tour: Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), Germany

This posting focuses on the visit of Weingut Baron Knyphausen in Erbach, Rheingau.

Gerko Freiherr zu Knyphausen was our host.

Tour and Tasting

The visit started in the tasting room of Weingut Baron Knyphausen, where Gerko Freiherr zu Knyphausen served us two outstanding Sekts. We then took a walk to the vineyards and through the cellar, before sitting down at the Draiser Hof for an entertaining tasting with Gerko Freiherr zun Knyphausen.

Pictures: Welcome

Weingut Baron Knyphausen

Weingut Baron Knyphausen is located in Eltville. The holdings (24 hectares) include the famous Erbacher Marcobrunn, Erbacher Siegelsberg and Hattenheimer Wisselbrunnen, with Riesling accounting for 85 percent of the total. Annual production is 130000 bottles.

Weingut Baron Knyphausen is member of the VDP, the association of German elite winemakers (since 1972) and founding member of the Charta Association.

Weingut Baron zu Knyphausen is managed by Frederik Freiherr zu Knyphausen, the oldest son of Gerko Freiherr zu Knyphausen. Knyphausen.

Pictures: Sekt Reception

Draiser Hof

Weingut Baron Knyphausen goes back to one of the oldest viticultural enterprises in Germany. The Draiser Hof - home of Weingut Baron Knyphausen - was built in 1141 by the Cistercian monks of the Eberbach Abbey to cultivate the monastery’s vineyards and fields in Erbach and Eltville.

Picture: Draiser Hof

The Draier Hof, as part of the Eberbach Abbey, was secularized under Napoleon in 1803. The new owner was the Duke of Nassau. He gave it as a present to his Minister Hans Christoph Ernst von Gagern to thank him for his loyal services during the secularization negotions. Hans Christoph Ernst von Gagern sold it to Georg Huber from Eltville in 1805, who then sold it to Gisbert Freiherr von Bodelschwingh-Plettenberg in 1815. Gisbert Freiherr von Bodelschwingh-Plettenberg died in 1845 and his son, Karl von Bodelschwingh-Plettenberg inherited it. Finally, through marriage of his only child, Wilhelmine, the Draiser got into the possession of the von Knyphausen family, a noble family from the Friesland area in the northern part of Germany. Until that time, the von Knyphausens were mainly Prussian Generals or Ministers.

Pictures: Cellar Tour

Investor

In 2010, the Grapevault Wine Fund No.1 became majority partner and took an active role in the management of the estate. Earlier this year, the shares were transferred to the Phillips family in Munich, also an investor in the Grapevault Wine Fund No.1, and Frederik Freiherr zu Knyphausen, was appointed Managing Director of Weingut Baron Knyphausen.

Pictures: In the Vineyard

Gerko Freiherr zu Knyphausen and his 5 Sons

Gerko Freiherr zu Knyphausen is well known in the Rheingau. The Knyphausens is the only noble family still fully involved in in winemaking in the Rheingau, where winemaking used to be dominated by the nobles. Gerko Freiherr zu Knyphausen has 5 sons. The oldest, Frederik, just took over the management of Weingut Baron Knyphausen. Gisbert is a well-known singer-songwriter in Germany. He lives in Berlin. Dodo just married winemaker Desiree Eser and works now with his wife at Weingut August Eser.

Pictures: Tasting with Gerko Freiherr zu Knyphausen

Tasting

2012 Weingut Baron Knyphausen Riesling Sekt Brut
2009 Weingut Baron Knyphausen Riesling Sekt Brut “Herrlichkeit”


2013 Weingut Baron Knyphausen Riesling feinherb
2014 Weingut Baron Knyphausen Riesling feinherb


2012 Weingut Baron Knyphausen Riesling Charta Riesling Kabinett
2012 Weingut Baron Knyphausen Baron K’ Riesling Kabinett


2012 Weingut Baron Knyphausen Erbacher Michelmark Riesling VDP.Erste Lage
2013 Weingut Baron Knyphausen Wisselbrunnen Riesling VDP.Grosse Lage GG


2013 Weingut Baron Knyphausen Erbacher Michelmark Riesling Spätlese
2011 Weingut Baron Knyphausen Erbacher Michelmark Riesling Auslese


Christy Canterbury, MW

American MW, Christy Canterbury, (2012): Team Knyphausen makes more than 30 wines and tends to seven main vineyards. Despite this generous and lengthy tasting, we simply couldn’t taste everything. Founded in 1141, this may be the one of the oldest estates in the Rheingau, but Gerko and his team are far from tradition-bound. New vineyards are being planted, and like the barrel-aged Riesling and Pinot Noir Sekt, new wines are being produced. I’m particularly curious about their Gemischter Satz idea (using Roter Traminer, Gelber Orleans, Weisser Heunisch, Silvaner, Weisser Elbling and Roter Riesling), and I hope some of it will eventually reach US shores. If not, I’ll be knocking at their doorstep soon after it’s commercialized.

Bye-bye 

Thank you Gerko Freiherr zu Knyphausen for a wonderful visit.

Pictures: Bye-bye

Postings on the Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015) (Posted and Forthcoming)

4 Wine Tours by ombiasy coming up in 2015: Germany-East, Germany-South. Germany-Nord and Bordeaux

Fall Tours by ombiasy WineTours 2015 - A Very Special Treat: Experience Harvest Time !

Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), Germany 

Tour and Tasting at Weingut Baron Knyphausen in Erbach, Rheingau

Wine and Music at Eberbach Abbey

Tour and Wine Lunch at Wein- und Sektgut Barth in Hattenheim, Rheingau

Tour and Tasting at Weingut Josef Spreitzer in Oestrich, Rheigau

Wine Tasting at Weingut Toni Jost in Bacharach, Mittelrhein

Cruise on the Rhine River from Bacharach to Boppard, Mittelrhein

Wine Tasting at Weingut J.J.Adeneuer in Bad Neuenahr-Ahrweiler, Ahr

Vineyard Walk and Tasting at Weingut Meyer-Näkel in Dernau, Ahr

Wine Tasting at Weingut Dr. Loosen in Bernkastel-Kues, Mosel

Wine Tasting at Weingut St. Urbans-Hof in Leiwen, Mosel

Vineyard Tour, Tasting and Lunch at Weingut Van Volxem in Wiltingen, Saar, Mosel

Wine Tasting at Weingut Hexamer, in Monzingen, Nahe

Tour and Tasting at Weingut Gut Hermannsberg, in Niederhausen, Nahe

Tour and Wine Dinner at Weingut Kruger-Rumpf in Münster-Sarmsheim, Nahe

Tour and Tasting at Sektmanufaktur Bardong in Geisenheim, Rheingau

Tour, Tasting and Lunch at Domaine Schloss Johannisberg in Geisenheim, Rheingau

Top 50 German Sauvignon Blancs: Mario Scheuermann's Deutsche Sauvignon Blanc Trophy 2015

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Picture: Mario Scheuermann's Deutsche Sauvignon Blanc Trophy 2015 - Top 3 Wines

No longer limited to the Loire Valley in France and Marlborough in New Zealand, Sauvignon Blanc is now cultivated all over the world, including in Germany. Against this background, wine journalist Mario cheuermann organized for the 9th time the annual “Deutsche Sauvignon Blanc Trophy” competition.

Picture: Mario Scheuermann and Christian Schiller at Kloster Eberbach

Sauvignon Blanc in the World

Sauvignon Blanc originates from the Bordeaux and Loire regions in France. It is now planted in many of the world's wine regions.

In France, Sauvignon Blanc is grown in the maritime climate of Bordeaux (especially in Entre-Deux-Mers, Graves and Pessac-Leognan as a dry wine, and in Sauternes as a sweet wine) as well as the continental climate of the Loire Valley (as Pouilly Fumé, Sancerre, and Sauvignon de Touraine).

Sauvignon Blanc is one of only four white grapes allowed in the production of white Bordeaux AOC. In the Sauternes region, the grape is blended with Sémillon to make the noble-sweet Sauternes. The composition varies from producer and can range from 5-50% of Sauvignon Blanc, with the Château d'Yquem using 20%.

In Australia, particularly the Margaret River region, the grape is often blended with Sémillon. In the 1990s, Sauvignon Blanc wines from the maritime climatic regions of New Zealand became popular on the global wine market. In North America, California is the leading producer of Sauvignon Blanc with plantings also found in Washington State. There, wine produced from the Sauvignon Blanc grape is also known as Fumé Blanc, introduced by Robert Mondavi as an allusion to the French Pouilly-Fumé. Sauvignon Blanc is also gaining prominence in Austria, South Africa, Italy and Germany.

Around 80,000 hectares of Sauvignon Blanc are estimated to be planted worldwide, with the largest concentrations in France and New Zealand.

Picture: Mario Scheuermann's Deutsche Sauvignon Blanc Trophy 2015 - Top 5 Wines

Sauvignon Blanc in Germany

Sauvignon Blanc is well established now in Germany after its introduction 10 years ago, but still only a niche wine. About 500 producers grow Sauvignon Blanc in Germany on about 600 hectares. Its stronghold are the Rheinhessen, Baden, Wuerttemberg and Pfalz regions.

Mario Scheuermann's Deutsche Sauvignon Blanc Trophy 2015

Here are the results, including Mario Scheuermann’s tasting notes (in German).

Platz 1
2013 Sauvignon blanc “S”, Bassermann-Jordan, Deidesheim, Pfalz
Strohgelb. Ein herrlicher Duft von reifer SB Frucht, ganz leicht unterstützt von Holz. Am Gaumen opulent, weich, unglaublich dicht. Saft und Druck. Weich und abgerundet. Feine, sehr reife Säure. Lnager Nachhall. Etwas Kaffee und Schokolade im Abgang. Das ist Sauvignon nahe an der Perfektion. 95

See also:
Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting at Weingut Geheimer Rat Dr. von Bassermann-Jordan in Deidesheim with General Manager Gunther Hauck – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2014)

Platz 2
2014 Sauvignon blanc Fumé, Weingut Stern, Hochstadt, Pfalz
Strohgelb. Sehr feine Rauchnote in der Nase. Am Gaumen reich, dicht und kraftvoll, kompakt und stoffig, Eine reife Säure. Feine Zitrusnote. Starke Mineralität. Langer Abgang. 95

Platz 3
2013 Sauvignon blanc 500, Weingut von Winning, Deidesheim, Pfalz
Strohgelb. Wunderbar burgundische Nase, mineralisch, mit einer sehr dezenten Holznote. Am Gaumen saftig, frisch, helle Frucht. Die pure Eleganz, Sehr lang und nachhaltig. Toller Stoff. 94

Platz 4
2014 Sauvignon blanc “vom Stein”, Weingut Maier, Schwaikheim, Württemberg
Helles Strohgelb. Leicht trüb (Fassmuster). Wunderbare Nase, würzig, komplex, feine Frucht, etwas Hefe und Holz, auch Brennnessel, Kräuter und Mineralität, leichte Stachelbeernote. Auch am Gaumen vielschichtig aufgebaut mit Mineralität über Stachelberaroma, kraftvoll, dicht, aber unfertig. Grosses Potenzial. Deutlicher Nachhall und Länge. 94

Platz 5
2013 Sauvignon blanc BAER, Weingut Oliver Zeter, Neustadt/Weinstrasse, Pfalz
Kräftiges strohgelb. Wunderbare Nase mit reifen Obstaromen und etwas, komplexer Ausdruck von reifer Frucht, Holz und Hefearomen. Das Bukett entwickelt sich sehr gut mit Luft, wird reicher. Am Gaumen saftig dicht und kraftvoll, weich mit dezentem Säurespiel, sehr lang und tief, aber völlig unfertig. Salzig im Abgang. Komplexer und sehr entwicklungsfähiger Wein. 93

Platz 6
2013 Sauvignon blanc Fumé, Weingut Oliver Zeter, Neustadt/Weinstrasse, Pfalz
Strohgelb. Eine sehr schöne Komination aus Frucht und feinen Holznuancen in der Nase, würzig, kräuterig, Blüten, Tee etwas Honig. Am Gaumen kraftvoll, dicht und konzentriert. Schöne saftige Art getragen vom Alkohol. Kleine reife Zitrusnote langer Abgang. 93

Platz 7
2014 Sauvignon blanc Fumé, Weingut Wageck, Bissersheim, Pfalz
Strohgelb. Nase verhalten, etwas Gummifreifen, rauchig, Feuerstein. Am Gaumen dicht und kraftvoll, saftig, langer Abgang. Grosser Wein. 93

Platz 8
2014 Sauvignon blanc Binger-Berg Limited Edition, Weingut Pauser, Flonheim, Rheinhessen
Helles strohgelb. Schöne reife, gelbe Stachelbeerfrucht in der Nase, dazu etwas tropische Ananas und Chutneywürze. Am Gaumen saftig, opulent, dicht, dabei sehr frisch. Schöne Konzentration wunderbar fruchtige Säure. sehr langer Abgang und Nachhall. 93

Platz 9
2014 Sauvignon blanc, Weingut Marget, Heitersheim, Baden
Strohgelb. Sehr klare rtypische Naase, würzig, komplex. Am Gaumen frisch, saftig, kräftige Säure, deutolich Stachelbeere, dazu tropische Früchte wie Ananas. Schöne straffe Struktzur, Saft und Spiel. 92

Platz 10
2012 Sauvignon blanc Réserve, Weingut Rainer Schnaitmann, Fellbach, Württemberg
Strohgelb. Nase verhalten und verschlossen, aber erkennbar konzentriert, kompakt und dicht, sehr fediner mineralische Würze. Am Gaumen mineralisch, würzig, tief, völlig in sich ruhend, burgundisch. Feine Süsse im Inneren, opulent, aber fest nicht ausufernd. Sehr langer Abgang. Das ist Sauvignon auf ganz hohem Niveau. Zeigt längst noch nicht alres was in ihm steckt. 92

Platz 11
2014 Sauvignon blanc Fumé, Weingut Georg Mosbacher, Forst (Pfalz) 92
Platz 12
2014 Käsleberg Sauvignon blanc Selektion, Weingut Landerer, Vogtsburg-Niederrotweil (Baden) 92
Platz 13
2014 Sonnenberg Sauvignon blanc, Weingut Jülg, Schweigen (Pfalz) 92
Platz 14
2014 Paradies Sauvignon blanc, Weingut Hubert Müller, Maikammer (Pfalz) 92
Platz 15
2013 Sauvignon blanc 3 Stern, Weingut Rainer Schnaitmann, Fellbach (Württemberg) 92
Platz 16
2014 Sängerhalde Sauvignon blanc 1 Lilie, Weingut Aufricht, Meersburg (Baden) 92
Platz 17
2014 Cuvée SC 3 Stern, Weingut Dobler , Weinstadt-Beutelsbach (Württemberg) 92
Platz 18
2013 Gartenlay Sauvignon blanc, Josten & Klein, Remagen (Mittelrhein) 92
Platz 19
2014 Sauvignon blanc -SW- , Weingut Martin Waßmer, Bad Krozingen-Schlatt (Baden) 92
Platz 20
2014 Terra Rossa, Weingut Weedenborn, Monzernheim (Rheinhessen) 92
Platz 21
2014 Daubhaus Sauvignon blanc, Weingut Gres, Appenheim (Rheinhessen) 92
Platz 22
2014 Schneckenhof Sauvignon blanc, Weingut Birkert, Bretzfeld-Adolzfurt (Württemberg) 92
Platz 23
2014 Herrnberg Sauvignon blanc, vinum autmundis, Gross Umstadt (Bergstrasse) 92
Platz 24
2013 Sauvignon blanc Fumé, Weingut Weedenborn, Monzernheim (Rheinhessen) 92
Platz 25
2014 Sauvignon blanc, Weingut Prinz, Hallgarten (Rheingau) 91
Platz 26
2013 Ovum, Weingut G. Aldinger, Fellbach (Württemberg) 91
Platz 27
2014 Sauvignon blanc EHL [Zweimännerwein], Winzerhof Stahl (Franken) 91
Platz 28
2014 Sauvignon blanc, Weingut Michael Schroth, Grünstadt-Asselheim (Pfalz) 91
Platz 29
2014 Sauvignon blanc , Weingut Weedenborn, Monzernheim (Rheinhessen) 91
Platz 30
2914 Haselstein Sauvignon blanc, Weingut Luckert, Winnenden (Württemberg) 91
Platz 31
2014 Sauvignon blanc, Weingut Pfirmann, Landau-Wollmersheim (Pfalz) 91
Platz 32
2014 Sauvignon blanc ***, Weingut Stern, Hochstadt (Pfalz) 91
Platz 33
2014 Sauvignon blanc II von Winning, eidesheim (Pfalz) 91
Platz 34
2014 Sauvignon blanc Deutscher Wein 7/15, Weingut Bruker, Grossbottwar (Württemberg) 91
Platz 35
2014 Sauvignon blanc GOLDADLER, Weingut Zimmerle, Korb (Württemberg) 91
Plkatz 36
2014 Sauvignon blanc Fumé, Weingut Eugen Müller, Forst (Pfalz) 91
Platz 37
2014 Sauvignon blanc, Weingut S & B Clauß, Nack (Baden) 91
Platz 38
2014 Sauvignon blanc R, Weingut Knauß, Weinstadt (Württemberg) 91
Platz 39
2014 Sauvignon blanc Savage, Weingut Espenhof, Flonheim (Rheinhessen) 91
Platz 40
2014 Sauvignon blanc, Weingut Oberhofer, Edesheim (Pfalz) 91
Platz 41
2014 Sauvignon blanc, Weingut Karl-Heinz Johner, Bischoffingen (Baden) 91
Platz 42
2014 Sauvignon blanc 503er, Weingut Bruker, Grossbottwar (Württemberg) 91
Platz 43
2014 Sauvignon blanc, Weingut Kirsten, Klüsserath (Mosel) 91
Platzn 44
2013 Sauvignon blanc, Weingut Kilian Hunn, Gottenheim (Baden) 91
Plkatz 45
2014 Sauvignon blanc, Weingut Nägele, Neustadt-Hambach (Pfalz) 91
Platz 46
2014 Ölbaum Sauvignon blanc Kabinett trocken, Weingut Hummel, Malsch (Baden) 91
Platz 47
2014 Sauvignon blanc, Weingut Oliver Zeter, Neustadt/Weinstrasse (Pfalz) 91
Platz 48
2014 Loirista, Anette Closheim, Langenlonsheim (Nahe) 91
Platz 49
2014 Dezberg Sauvignon blanc, Weingut Gerhard Leiss, Gellmersbach (Württemberg) 90
Platz 50
2013 Sauvignon blanc, Weingut Andreas Laible, Durbach (Baden) 90

schiller-wine: Related Postings

Mario Scheuermann's Deutsche Sauvignon Blanc Trophy 2014, Germany

The Sauvignon Blanc Trophy 2010 - The Top 20 German Sauvignon Blancs

Sauvignon Blanc in Austria– A Comparative Tasting with Falstaff's Peter Moser at Weinsinn in Frankfurt, Germany

Concours Mondial du Sauvignon Blanc 2010

Tour and Wine Dinner at Domaine de Chevalier with Director Adjoint Rémi Edange and Owner/Director Olivier Bernard – Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

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Picture: Tour and Wine Dinner at Domaine de Chevalier with Director Adjoint Rémi Edange and Owner and Director Olivier Bernard – Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Led by Annette Schiller, the Bordeaux Tour 2015 by ombiasy WineTours took place from September 15 to 24, 2015. The group comprised 8 wine lovers from the United States, including Annette and Christian Schiller. I already provided an overview of the tour. See the list of postings at the end of the article. This posting focuses on: Tour and Wine Dinner at Domaine de Chevalier with Director Adjoint Rémi Edange and Owner and Director Olivier Bernard.

See: Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Director Adjoint Rémi Edange was our host.

Director and Owner Olivier Bernard, who is currently President of the “Union des Grand Crus de Bordeaux”, the association of 133 grands crus estates in the Bordeaux region, joined us on the tour.

Tour and Wine Dinner

The tour started in the vineyard. We then moved to the modern production facility. Here we were joined by Olivier Bernard. We than had a tasting of the new vintage from barrel. From there, we moved to the dining room for a gourmet dinner with winetasting.

Domaine de Chevalier

Domaine de Chevalier is located south of the City of Bordeaux in the commune of Léognan, the capital of the Graves region.

Domaine de Chevalier is classified as a Graves Cru Classé. Domaine de Chevalier is one of the few Graves estates to produce both first class reds and whites.

Pictures: Welcome at Domaine de Chevalier

Viticulture of significance at Domaine de Chevalier was begun during the 19th century when it was owned and run by Arnaud Ricard, also the proprietor of Château Malartic-Lagravière.

In 1983 Domaine de Chevalier was bought by the Bernard family, producers of Cognac and major Bordeaux wine merchants. Managed by Claude Ricard since 1948, he stayed on as advisor for several years. It was during the tenure of Claude Ricard, that Domaine de Chevalier was included in the 1959 Graves Classification.

From a property of 80 hectares, the vineyard area consists of 35 hectares of red grape varieties: 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 2.5% Cabernet Franc, and 2.5% Petit Verdot; and 4.5 hectares of white grape varieties: 70% Sauvignon blanc and 30% Sémillon. Since the Bernard family has taken over, the vineyard size has almost doubled.

The Grand Vin, Domaine de Chevalier, is annually produced in 7,000 cases of the red wine and 1,200 cases of the dry white. The red and white second wines, L'Esprit de Chevalier, has a production of 5,800 and 800 cases, respectively. There is also a third wine, Pessac Leognan.

The first grapes were planted by a man who was a chivaley, the old Gascon word for knight. Later the modern French word “Chevalier” was used for the estate, the old name “Domaine” instead of the word “Chateau” to describe a wine making estate has never been abandoned. It is one of a very few Bordeaux estates to be named Domaine instead of Château.

Olivier Bernard and Rémi Edange

Director Adjoint Rémi Edange was our host. Director and Owner Olivier Bernard, who is currently President of the “Union des Grand Crus de Bordeaux”, the association of 133 grands crus estates in the Bordeaux region, joined us on the tour.

Pictures: With Owner Olivier Bernard in the Cellar

Fine Wine and Spirits Merchant Berry Bros. & Rudd: Olivier Bernard, whose family business owns the estate, is the outgoing but canny administrator whilst Rémi Edange is hands-on, knowing every vine and every barrel. The quality curve is now further accentuated by the team's bold move to appoint Stéphane Derenoncourt, of La Mondotte fame, as consultant winemaker.

Cellar Tour

We spent some time in the wine cellar with Director Adjoint Rémi Edange. Olivier Bernard joined us there. They explained to us in detail how their wines are made. Jeff Leve from California has it nicely written up:

To produce the white Bordeaux wine of Domaine de Chevalier, after a light pressing, the juice is run off into barrel. There is no skin contact. Vinification takes place in French oak barrels. Once filled, the barrels are placed in a special cold room (the only other one in Bordeaux is at Chateau Margaux) to bring the barrel temperature gradually down to 18 to 20 degrees Celsius. This helps the fermentation to take place on a gradual basis. Fermentation temperatures reach 25 degrees Celsius or on occasion slight warmer, up to 27 or 28 degrees Celsius. There is no malolactic fermentation. The wine remains on its lees with regularly stirring for an average of 12 months. The wine spends an additional 6 months in barrel before bottling.

Pictures: With Director Adjoint Rémi Edangein the Cellar

To produce the red wine of Domaine de Chevalier, vinification takes place in stainless steel vats that range in size from 100 hectoliters to 150 hectoliters. In 2014, Domaine de Chevalier added 8 new, 80 hectoliter, egg shaped, cement vats for the vinification of the red wine. There are ample vats to allow for a parcel by parcel vinification. 33% of the red wine undergoes malolactic fermentation in new French oak barrels. The remainder takes place in tank.

The red wine of Domaine de Chevalier is aged in 40-75% new, French oak barrels for 18 to 22 months, depending on the character of the vintage.

Tasting 2014 Grand Vin Rouge and Blanc from Barrel

We then moved to the tasting room in order to taste the 2014 Grand Vin Rouge and Blanc from barrel. They are currently available at US$ 80 (white) and US$ 44 (red) through the subscription system.

We were served scallops, foie gras avec framboise, croque monsieur and duck.

Pictures: Tasting 2014 Grand Vin Rouge and Blanc from Barrel

Wine Dinner

We then moved to the dining room for a fabulous gourmet dinner with wine tasting, led by Rémi Edange.


Daurade Royale, Echalotes Confits et ses Perles
Domaine de Chevalier Blanc 2007


Supremes de Caille et Foie Gras de Canard aux Noix
Domaine de Chevalier Rouge 2006


Fromages
Domaine de Chevalier Rouge 2000


Corne de Verveine Glacee
Chateau Guiraud 2003


Wine Searcher Average Prices

Wine Searcher Average Prices: White Bordeaux Wine of Domaine de Chevalier (in US$)
2014: 80
2013: 81
2012: 98
2010: 116
2000: 87

Wine Searcher Average Prices: Red Bordeaux Wine of Domaine de Chevalier (in US$)
2014: 44
2013: 41
2012: 52
2010: 87
2000: 104

Bye-bye

Thanks you Rémi Edange and Olivier Bernard for an outstanding first evening on Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015).

Pictures: Good Night and Thanks

Postings on the Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France (Posted and Forthcoming)

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Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Bordeaux Wine Tour 2013 by ombiasy

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